At what Pressure does a 3D Printed rim EXPLODE? We put it to the TEST!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 31 тра 2024
- We received a lot of comments on our previous 3D printed rim video saying that pressurizing this rim would be the biggest problem and potentially dangerous. Well, we put this to the test! We want to be sure what happens if it blows up and at what pressure so we can estimate how dangerous it is once we put it under the car.
Thanks Hollyland for sending the Mars 400S Pro! More info:
Amazon US : www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Amazon UK: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B...
Amazon DE: www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08L...
Thanks 3D4Makers for sponsoring the filament! Check out their website www.3d4makers.com/ and get 10% off of all purchases by using the promo code properprinting
Thanks Stefan from CNCKitchen! Don't forget to subscribe to his channel / cnckitchen
I've got new merch!! Check out merch.properprinting.pro
And special thanks to my highest tiers:
- The 3D printing Belgian / 3dpbelgian
- Ege Aydede
- The Sauce
- 3Dgeneriert / 3dgeneriert
- MrCristobal
- Bob Verschoor
- David Fillmore
- thej0ker
- Oscar Molina
- Andy Wright
- Alward
- Brent Johnson
- Kenny Eaton
- ZiGGstern
- LumenMesh, Inc lumenmesh.com/
- Venturi 3D venturi3d.com/
- SyFy Design www.syfydesign.com/
- Mitch Rife www.printitnow3d.com/
- Keith Coventry
- Philip W
- Zachary 3D prints / zachary3dprints
- ent-ρ-π
- CHACBON
- Muhannad Abbas
- Sebastian Cox
- Snoopy VonPhoenix
- Kurtis van Kampen
- Jimmie Clark
- Doug Walmsley
- Lorenzo H
- Mauro Sequeira
- Jack Greer
- SpideyFresh
- Ruben
- Chipperfield
- Marijn Pool
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:33 New rim design
2:32 Setup
3:40 Pump it!
6:30 Thanks to everyone involved!
8:38 At what pressure will it blow?
9:57 Inspect the damage
Music from Epidemic sound. Want a subscription yourself? Please use this referral link to support me: www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
Please consider buying me a coffee if you liked it or helped you :) ko-fi.com/properprinting/
The link to my website: properprinting.pro/
Software used for making my videos:
- Mechanical design: VariCAD www.varicad.com/en/home/
- Illustrations: Inkscape inkscape.org/
- Laser engraving: Lightburn lightburnsoftware.com/
- Slicer: Simplify3D www.simplify3d.com/
- Second slicer: IdeaMaker www.raise3d.com/ideamaker/
- Video editing: Davinci Resolve www.blackmagicdesign.com/
- Screen recording: OBS Studio obsproject.com/
- Audio recording: Audacity www.audacityteam.org/
- Audio enhancement Cakewalk www.cakewalk.com/
- Photo enhancing: rawtherapee.com/
- Terminal: Termite www.compuphase.com/software_t... - Наука та технологія
I love the friendly neighbor just being ok with random explosions.
I love that the subtitles said "Do you have THAT junk in your eye" like there is another kind of junk to get in your eye after a possessed rim with tire went through the roof.
That LLt Store comment made me laugh way too hard.
I really appreciate how serious you voice is on every video but the shenanigans you and your buddies go through and the monotone jokes you say are priceless.
Gr8 stuff! Real engineering. Remember, it is science when you write it down.
Thanks! I just wrote it down ;)
This is really interesting. Also the thumbnail made me chuckle haha, love it
Thanks! Awesome, I'm proud of this thumbnail xD
@@properprinting go to a +1 wheel and tire size. Increase the wheel diameter by one inch and change the tire aspect ratio so the tire diameter stays the same or close to it. Then you'll have room for bolts all the way through. Instead of lug nuts with a bevel, use ones with a large and flat clamping face and a cylindrical locating section. That will add strength and centering along with the raised hub center. Next thing, put a chamfer on or round all the sharp edges on the spokes. The sharp edges act as stress concentrators. You can see that "hot spot" on CNC Kitchen's stress analysis.
@@greggv8 Thanks for your suggestions! The printer is completely maxed out with this design because the size is reduced due to the liquid cooling 😅 If I chamfer those edges there will be less surface touching the print bed and this print was already very close to warping. I think that there are other parts in the rim weaker than these sharp edges and I'll keep the design for what it is right now. It prints well, held more than twice the amount of pressure (which most people didn't expect) and we'll find out what fails next at which point ;)
Excellent progress! 👏😎 looking forward to see it on the car, in action.
I've never been to this channel before but the net over the wheel in the intro made me respect it. Love to see people thinking of safety
Excited to see this insane project continue!!
Good bang!!
That's what she said.
Safest way to relieve pressure at that point is to allow failure In a controlled manner
Your video came up in suggested videos for me and I'm very glad it did. This is the sort of crazy shit I love!
Thank you, Jón. Very cool!
I love the content of this channel, looking forward for the next videos
Pushing the limits of 3D printing as always! Very entertaining!
Woooooot! Awesome stuff man. One fine picture on the video as well. :) And boy that was tense, my only fear (also at work) is things that spin at 100.000 rpm, high pressure stuff etc. I haaaaaaaate that. Only benefit is that I'm damn sure everything is balanced. :)
Thanks Vincent! Probably the safest place to bee will be inside of the car xD I've worked often with lathes before and a big fast spinning clamp is something hard to get used to haha
You never fail to make entertaining and genuinely interesting content!
here's a tip for the brass inserts ripping out of the rim:
put the brass inserts on the other side of the inner part and use longer bolts so they go through the whole rim.
that way the pulling force of the screws gets distributed in all the material, not just the part where the insert is melted in.
that should also help your inner flange to not break since it's also held together by the screws, not only the layer adhesion of the print.
Also... it was really the inner tube that failed first so there is that, your mod would probably be a minimum requirement to handle side loads when actually driving though...
Agree, these inserts are supposed to be on the outer side.
Very entertaining video. Keep up the great work!
I love your experiment,,,, And what an awesome neighbour you have. Kudos to him.
hahaha Totaly onest scare reaction hahaha !!! keep up the good work !!! This channel will grow fast!!!
Love the rubbery sound trying to fit the inner hose
Really interested to see how it handles under the car, this takes into account “static” pressure but when driving around I would expect the pressure to spike once in a while (when going over a speedbump for example).
Really looking forward to seeing the final results! Great video as always!
You get a like before I even watch, seen a few of the other videos in this series. Keep it up guy.
Awesome Brandon, thanks!
That was lawed, I hear it here in UK lol, awesome video, you can make it, keep it up.
Well, that was entertaining AF! More please 😁
Thanks! Working on it😁
Crazy Dutch! Thanks for the vid! ;)
Thanks for the video guys. Don't forget the heat from the brakes when wheel is on the car. Keep safe and stay well.
I hope that we get to the point that this is going to be a point of failure ;)
If you would want to get pressure out of the tyre in a controlled manner, you could have just bend the hose tightly so air doesnt move through and take it off the compressor side. Then slowly ease the bend.
Great video and looking forward for driving with printed rim!
That is actually a great tip! My mind didn't function that well at that moment😂
@@properprinting just disconnect the hose from the compressor lol dont overthink it
When you do wear some heavy duty headphones / ear protection. Releasing air that fast makes a deafening hiss(source I get to hear that deafening hiss weekly)
There's a T splitter, connect a third hose with a valve to it and extend it after the valve with a little bit more hose and wind the tip of the hose with cloth or acrylic wool,
You wont hear anything at all, you can wind the over pressure protection valve and it will release air super quietly when you pull it's test.
You can also just shut of the air compressor and crack the bleeder valve on the bottom of the tank then let the whole system decompress.
As a Norwegian, my brain always get super confused when you speak Dutch as it thinks it's hearing Norwegian but can't make out the words 😂
Haha I've got the similar feeling when I hear the Norwegian language🤣
@@properprinting That's so cool 😃
Awesome video, thanks! Why didnt you simply designed it so that bolts are going through the rim all the way without using inserts on one side, i think that with bolts all the way through it would keep itself alot better!
I just ROTFL on LLT store dot bottle 😂
I love the idea of that rim and might design something myself for a smaller device (thinking of my e-scooter) what i noticed though in the snippet where you showed the gcode, is there any specific reason on the infill you chose? To me it seems counter productive for the goal here but i might be mistaken.
once again, amazing stuff.
Thanks!
Brilliant! Goed werk!
My sorta knee jerk response to your 3D printed rim project has been Why? He seems like such a smart guy! Of all things, what a crazy thing to 3D print! I hope he doesn't kill himself or someone else if he actually drives on those things, etc., etc. After pondering it for a bit, however, it occurred to me that the best way to find the real limits of a technology is to find and push its limits, then find ways of overcoming its limitations, rinse and repeat.
Congratulations on reaching an important goal.
I knew you’d get it to hold pressure.
It’s always interesting how much you can learn by breaking things.
If compression from your torque wrench is limited to keep from deforming the plastic… when you tighten the tires lug nuts… can it handle that?
Thanks! I think it would be an interesting test to see at what torque it'll be pulled out
@@properprinting also I as thinking the vibration from driving would cause stress fractures on the layer lines.
I think it will drive on ABS for certain amount of time. the wear and tear of different road conditions overtime will determine the overall result. awesome work!
I'm excited to see 100% success with 4x wheels on your car and driving around like a boss.
You are absolutely crazy i love it.
Try printing out of PEI see if someone will sponsor it.
Also try bolting the rim together all the way through, should help.
Great video always entertaining.
Amazing project!
It seems to me that what failed was the air chamber, not much the rim itself but there is always room for improvement
Two things.
To safely relieve pressure, disconnect your hose at the compressor and press the check valve in the hose, or pull the safety pin on the air tank.
Second this is awesome, I would have run the bolt holes fully through the other half of the wheel to use a long bolt for clamping force. I’d also suggest if you did that to ensure both halves have a way to key together like a circular boss male and female.
You guys rock!!!
Now we know how “safe” it is to pressurize it before we put it under the car ;) Did you expect this result? Let us know and don’t forget to subscribe to CNCKitchen if you haven’t already! ua-cam.com/users/CNCKitchen The video with our chat will be released later today!
Edit: I received several suggestions/questions about why I didn't put the threaded rods all the way through. This was my initial design for this second version. However, the problem is that there's not enough room between the tire and brake caliper ;)
Also, the link to our chat ua-cam.com/video/_kJx8TGE9j4/v-deo.html
Why dont you stagger the bolts so half of the bolts are going through each part which will improve the shear resistance on the other part? That would fix the issue without needing to print in a more expensive matterial.
I have an idea for a video to air with you, if you don't mind. Its takeaways would IMO be useful and relevant to your project, so it's not a sidetrack. I believe your style, creativity and production quality would be very well suited for such a content piece. I apologize if this is a bit messy and long; I'm just impromptu dumping a brainstorm on my phone here. If you find the time to read this, I thank you for that time.
Super-TL;DR
Install hot inserts into printed test pieces, and split them open to explore how (well) the plastic actually conforms to the inserts.
-
Brainstorm bulk dump:
Inserting a few different common types of brass/threaded inserts into test pieces, then splitting the piece open to see what kind of material conformity and friction these inserts actually have to work with in terms of "hanging on". Depending on the scope, maybe at a couple of didfferent temperatures and a couple of different FDM materials?
I would suggest designing the test pieces with two designated weak lines for easier splitting (just not so weak it expands or gives out when installing the inserts). Probably end up making the lines at 90° angle in a cross formation centered on the insert hole, in case the insert won't easily "release" a full 180° "clamshell" around it (but try 120/180° or something in between first, it would provide a larger remaining surface area to study in case some material must be cut to free the plastic part from the insert).
Ideally you'd want the split section of the test piece to come away from the insert without breaking whatever plastic conformed to the insert's outer shape, so we can get best possible view of how the melted plastic actually conformed to the insert. Maybe use a small drill press or mock up a simple jig, so that you can get insertion angle and pressure fairly consistant between the samples. Maybe consider making 2-3 extra samples of each test group, and send them to Stefan for testing pull-out force, make it a channel/maker coollab 😃
I don't know if you have one, but IIRC both Stefan and Thomas Sanladerer have 3D scanners - if scanning both the inserts and split test pieces, you could make a 3D render showing even better how the plastic conforms (or doesn't) to the insert. AFAIK channel collabs like these are always cool and fairly successful content, and they amplify channel visibility for both/all creators participating. And seeing how IMO the information learned could actually be _very_ useful information for the 3D printing community, that information would reach wide, and the videos would likely sustain views long(er) term.
I believe that the results and reflections from these tests would be very valuable in understanding the material dynamics at work, the strength and weaknesses of these hot-melt-inserts, and inform both 3d model part and hot insert design, to better work with and around those strengths and limitations.
Most non-engineering tinkerers seem to think of it like the molten plastic conforming fully to the outer surface of the hot insert like it might with _injection molding_ around the insert, but I doubt it does that fully when "just" pressing one in hot. Surely some amount of the plastic will deflect away? There's still, relatively, a lot of tensile strength, surface tension and quite moderate viscosity to molten plastic, and almost all the pressure you exert when inserting one of these are "pushing the plastic away" from the insert. There's not much pressure involved to force the plastic in between the ridges and knurling of the outer shape of the insert, just fairly light back pressure from displacement as long as the bottom of the hole does not give (yet).
To my understanding, this is why injection molding is done with substantial pressure, not just gravity fed - it's not smooth and easy flowing, it won't easily conform to small, high friction shapes without being "squeezed in there" with significant pressure.
@@pr0xZen wow, thanks for sharing your thoughts! The inserts I use are these www.onkenhout.nl/pdf/multisert_zonder_kop/227/t/p which are, unless most inserts you can find on the market, made for pressing in. It's definitely interesting to do more tests with these. At this moment I think that this is the best option I have considering the tight space I have. Threaded rods all the way through don't fit and nuts are too large and cause sharp edges which can cause delamination. This, together with the fact that the rim held more than twice the air pressure I think that I leave this design for what it is now until it fails at the next test. A very interesting thing which I can check though is the strongest way to add inserts. I always assumed that the best way was heating up, but at what temperature or maybe ultra sonic or just cold pressing is stronger.
Thanks again, your comment gives new ideas!
Add a hub extender, and you would have way better results printing the entire rim and taking it to a tire shop for mounting
Instead of using push-in inserts, how about using print-in-place nuts? That's where you model pockets for the nuts inside the rim, print it up to the top of the pockets, pause the print to insert the nuts, then continue and print over them. They should be more resistant to pull-out than inserts (assuming there's enough material in front). Or you could try the same with the inserts, just pushing them in from the inside after a partial print before continuing.
You should check the pressure rating on the inner tube too. It looked to me like that was what went first, and the point eruption was what took out the rim, though I could be wrong.
Any chance we can get a follow-up soon on the microswitch nozzle probe? Thanks!
The tube doesn't have a pressure rating as it's basically a balloon that's filled to take the shape of the container, in this case the tire and rim. So something with either the tire or rim must've failed, unless the tube was defective or the valve separated, the latter of which wouldn't normally end in a dramatic explosion. It's likely the pressure from the inflated tube caused the wheel to fail, specifically the plastic to separate and let the tube rupture there.
Either way, you have to admit it's pretty impressive. I didn't think a 3D printed wheel would be able to handle all that pressure, both from the inflated tube and the weight of a car on top of it.
Definitely difference in how just tire inflates vs inner tube inflates. Just tire pushes outward from sidewalls while tube pushes sidewalls and toward center of rim.
very interesting test, the pressure in the tire is a static pressure test so don't forget when you run a car an turn ont he left or the right when driving all the mass of the car put some lot of stress on the rim the flat part gonna cut because the layers prints are in the same plan ... Haveyou think about printed a rim who combine flat part and ray but not printed in the same plane as the strengh to avoid delamination.
Lol, "expect a muffled bang"!
omg the LTT store joke made me bust a gut
Strong Mythbusters vibe on this one, love it!
Fun project. You did forget that it takes time to fill a tyre, but the wait to let the compressor back to pressure was probably enough to make it even. As long as there's sound from air moving the tyre got lower pressure.
Would be interesting how it reacts under the dynamic loading while driving. Unsure if the plastic would be more malleable than metal or more brittle due to the construction.
Also the heat resistivity of the material would be an interesting aspect, as the material endures heat cycles, it could accelerate the lifespan and cause it to deteriorate and become brittle.
I think the biggest hurdle will be having the material deteriorate due to the radiative heat from the brakes. I look forward to the dynamic testing!!
I'm thinking vibration and bumps will give a separating layer failure. I think once the rims are printed, then we will see a "dip" of some sort for layer integrity. Know a great compatible hardening layer?
(9:12) Ya?... Ya... Ya...booom goes the rim lol he got scared from the flying parts on the monitor lol!
Love the LTT store bit
love this project, i know itd be pricy, but it'd be cool to see a Pa6CF rim as the nylon would add a bit of toughness
The accidental over-torquing of the bolts very well may have weakened the inserts' grip on the ABS (fatigue, cracks, etc.), contributing to the failure. I'd be very interested in seeing this retested using the same ABS with the bolts being properly torqued.
It's also possible that the crack you found later (towards the bead) was a result of the violent release, especially if the inserts on that section of the rim held stronger than the ones on the rest of the rim (when the rim is coming apart and one section doesn't want to give, there's going to be an excess of tension in that region).
Also, you have the coolest neighbors, congrats on that! :^)
Nice!!!!!!!! Even scarier than a bushman prank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 😂
I'm going to argue that the wheel broke at the bolt holes, and the layer separation that you observed was a result of the shock, or possibly that they both happened at the same millisecond. Can you beg/borrow/ steal a slo-mo camera? That would be super interesting to watch! I'm an ex tire fitter by the way.
Subscribed!
Awesome, thanks for your sub! I'd love to have a slow-motion camera. That crack for sure was close to the maximum strength of those inserts ;)
Gaaast dit is zo vet!
Echt mooi ge-engineerd, heb je nog klachten gegregen van je buren?
Bedankt! Nee, ik heb hele toffe buren (en heb ze vooraf gewaarschuwd ;))
I know it would be sort of cheating but
you can re-melt it in salt compressed to make a mold,
thus avoiding layer separation.
AWESOME experiment guys 😎 As a suggestion, if you get rid of the threaded inserts & put the bolts right through both inner & outer rims, you'll eliminate that particular weak point & possibly be able to increase failure pressure ?
Thanks! I initially designed it with the bolts all the way through, but there's not enough room between the edge of the tire and the brake caliper so I had to get rid of it unfortunately.
Its one thing holding 5 bars static pressure (which a simple cheaply made steel rim can handle), but now add the forces of a 2 ton car going around a corner at speed plus breaking forces and impact forces from the road. I dont mean to be the bringer of bad news, but 3d printed rims will most likely only be decorative unless there is a change in the material strength. That rim will also need durability and heat dispersion properties otherwise the tyre will overheat too.
I think it would be wise to fashion a metal grommet and heat press them in the stud holes abs is brittle and the harsh vibrations will not be kind to the molecular structure I imagine
It would be interested to see that piece reprinted in ABS and before tightening the bolts that hold the two sections together, brush on a slurry made from ABS melted in acetone. It would create a very strong bond that would make it less of a week point. The only downside is that it would likely make it a one-time use wheel.
It looks like the bead pressure of the tire separated the plastic on the back half of the rim. How about bolting thru both pcs? Using flange nuts on the opposite side or both. The flange nuts will have more surface area on the print and the long bolts will hold the layers together. If it did blow out to the center the long bolts may prevent that. Cheers! Great video!
I turned the volume down for not to get scared by the explosion, ahahahah! What tension! Thanks PP! Anyway it looks like a very good result! In addition to the bolted threaded holes insertions, why don't you also glue (bi-component epoxy maybe) the two parts?
Haha awesome! Inserts are easier and for now strong enough ;) I'll improve things once that'd be necessary
@@properprinting or epoxy the inserts in place?
I would also think thread rods epoxy in inner side part to inner edge, will also improve layer adhesion, and then capped nuts on outer rim 🤔🤓
Would it be better to have the inserts in the other side of the rim? so there is still clearance for the brake calipers but they are pulled into the material rather than only being held by the melted plastic.
That's a good question! I use a different type than what you normally find on the internet which are specifically made for pressing in www.onkenhout.nl/pdf/multisert_zonder_kop/227/t/p These are the strongest the way I've placed them. For the next version I can make the holes a bit deeper so a collar is produced when they start to give.
Hummmm, you learned something.... And did not all mistakes again... Really Kool....
Yeah, u mean they should have used rods that goes from one side to the other side of the rimm to work against delamination of the layers?! That was my thought at the first vid...
You might consider also filling the micro-voids between layers of the whole construct with a casting epoxy under vacuum. This will ensure that any less than perfect bonds between layers in the rim diameter (the weakest plane, but your print strategy) will have reinforcement sufficient to perhaps overcome the inherent weaknesses of 3D prints.
Great project and great fun (sometimes)!
That's a great idea and would work wonders but wouldn't it detract from the original purpose of this project?
@@SonofTheMorningStar666 no success comes without adjusting or outright compromising original assumptions to get a viable result….
Layer adhesion is a critical issue in structural 3D prints. Unless you can design around it, you must mitigate to get a safe result.
You certainly wouldn’t want the outside part of the rim to come off in a slightly more than sedate turn or after hitting a rut in the road…..😱
I still really like the idea and the process you’re going through to get to a viable result….just doing my engineering thinking while enjoying the process.
@@CCCfeinman55 🙄 Give it up Chuck.
@@SonofTheMorningStar666 oK.
you guys should acetone smooth the rim so all the layers bond together fully. I wonder how much stronger it would be than regular unsmoothed abs.
just a little tip I got when doing water rockets pressure tests : fill the container with water at least at 80% like so far less air is needed to pressure and also there is less air that will violently decompress inn case oof an explosion, drastically reducing the noise
Thanks for the tip! We intentionally used air because we wanted to experience how violently this actually was. This way we know what we can expect when it goes wrong while being under the car. Turns out that, unless you place your head firmly against the rim, this isn't life threatening and we'll use ear protection for the next tests xD
Hallo from Greece. I would have tried to add screws from one side of the rim to the other. Avoiding the brass inserts completely.Maybe i would have used and big wasers in every screw to increase the the contact area of the bolt .In conclusion you will have the two parts of the rims sandwiched together and more durable rim. And you will always pressing the printing layers vertical with the use of the long side to side nuts and blots.
I'm glad no one was hurt. I should think you would have put some straps around it to contain the pieces when it let go. Kind of like a portable tire inflation cage.
How about instead of the brass inserts, maybe counter sink nut reliefs. This will have the benefit of both clearing the brake caliper and putting material between the clamping pressure of the bolt head and the nut, as opposed to relying on the adhesion of the material to the brass insert. Just a thought.
Bahahaha, LTT Store. Gold.
Two tips. Put the screws all the way through the rim and pressurize with water, it’s not compressible so you won’t have the explosive rupture.
If you are using bolts already, why not get longer ones and put a nut on the other side, preferably with some big washers to distribute the load. This will provide compression through the whole rim which will help prevent both failure modes seen in this video.
Looks to me like the delamination at the thin spot happened after the brass inserts released all the air. My guess would be the shock from the plastic expanding and the tire bead contracting due to decompression did it.
Have you considered going to a larger rim and lower profile tires? Would give space for both the threaded rods and your car's brakes.
That could be the reason indeed. I've thought about that, but the problem is that the print volume in the Y-direction is reduces due to the water cooling. I completely maxed it out with this design xD
@@properprinting Heh. Does anyone make a light weight brake kit that has smaller rotors and calipers? Maybe from a smaller car that uses the same hubs?
Good job guys.
And if ABS won't do the job I suggest you go for metal printing.
They do it for rocket engines these days --> so I believe you guys can do it for a wheel rim too --> SUPER EASY FOR YOU GUYS
Thanks! Printing this out of metal would be insane! xD
FYI - if you had the vavle system removed and wanted to safely bleed the tire pressure - shut off the compressor and pull the pressure release valve on the compressor - that would safely drain the pressure from the tank and the tire
Waarom gebruik je geen draadeinden door en door. Hierdoor heb je geen last meer van inserts die los kunnen komen, ook heb je minder snel last van dat de lagen van de print onderling los komen.
Dit doordat je het geheel naar elkaar toe trekt. Natuurlijk wel chasie ringetjes gebruiken.
Damn that was so intense. I was on edge all throughout :D
Awesome! I'm glad you felt what we did :D
@@properprinting oh i definitely did :D bachelor thesis could wait for this
@@pringineer1027 good luck with your thesis!
Cheers man! I am like 70% done :)
👍 Redesign for angled through bolts, and, you MAY have a winner...
If you would increase the overal diameter to gain the clearance for the brake callipers with bolts through the entire rim. The benefit would be that you wouldn’t have to change the printing material as the bolts would not just keep the pieces together but also the layers of the print itself.
True! The problem is that I completely maxed out my printer 😅 I squeezed every mm out of it and this is due to the size reduction the water cooling caused. I'll try it at the car first and if it fails I'll use stronger material. If that fails I can make a decision to stop or do further improvements somewhere else.
If you want to do a safer pressure test you can use water, and make sure you bleed the air out. It won't explode if there's no compressible gas in there.
PLA will be stronger. It has much higher tensile strength than ABS, which is what counts here. I would also make the threads part of the plastic. Melted in inserts are not going to have great axial holding force unless they are threaded on the outside as well and screwed in threaded inserts.
If you run a inner tube you can go for a bolt through the rim just Nut and Bolts.
That doesn't fit like I explained in the video
Hey! for more content after this you could Injection Mold your model and then CAST your model in a metal! You know us makers love watching injection molding and casting videos
I told myself 6 bars of pressure, believing that the threaded rods crossed the rim right through, besides, is it not possible to proceed in this way? But wow very impressive , hi from France
You were close! The space between the edge of the tire and the brake caliper is too small for threaded rods. For now this result is good enough to proceed and I want to focus on printing the side in which those inserts are placed out of stronger material if it needs improvement.
24psi.. damn I underestimated the strength of 3D printed plastic.
2:10 OMG I love your video's.
Does the fail line happen to align with the bottom of the insert holes ?
No, it failed further back where the cross section was thinnest
Can you try out filling ~20% infill rim with slow cure resin for higher durability?
Good question and would be interesting to put to the test! For this rim, the weakest point is at its parameters where there isn't any infill. The infill in this design isn't doing that much.
Once on the car, the 5 lug nuts will also help keep the 2 pieces together as it will all be bolted to the car itself. Doesn't mean the edges all around still may not flex out at the 2 piece fastening.
It's a great experience 👍 On the other hand, I have to admit that it was difficult to watch the whole video without blinking trying not to miss the explosion 😅
Well a few more of these and you're going to become the Dr Tire (from The Big Bang Theory) 😉
Goed steenkolen Engels 😜 love the contact
Future thoughts. Open the tank water drain
(Petcock valve) with air pump off or unplugged.
Should back feed the air through the tank.
You could try to reinforce with cavitys of epoxy resin?
I don't think that the resin will penetrate deep enough for it to have effect. I do however have another trick up my sleeve which looks a bit like your question. First I'll do the upcoming tests as it is now to find it's limits.
Ya I was not sure when the rim would fail but for an explosion it would take a lot more than 60psi
Just wondering, why not just use threaded rods and a nut with a washer on each side instead of the inserts ?
I think I heard that blow from here in UK!
Hahaha hears bang faintly in distance, "must be those Dutchies again" xD
Your neighbor's comment at the end "Ik hoor 't" (I'll hear it) - after that bang he won't hear a thing anymore 🤣
Looking at the failure, it look like a layer de-lamination. A better (yet impossible) means of printing would be across the width of the rim. That would need a kind of a 4th axis (tilting build platform or extruder) on the printer and printing in 3 or 4 segments. But that would possibly get an insane strong rime since the tire pressure will compress the layers instead of tearing them apart.
This is a cool idea but try to make the rim air tight that was more how much pressure the tube could hold