Firstly I'd like to say that I love that you've gone for the "it's now a practical van" approach. Secondly: removing the sunroof and welding the hole shut could save a few crucial kg at the highest point of the car. Also: I can't exactly remember how adjustable the suspension is but I'd also suggest to retune it since it's now set up for a car that's 135kg heavier.
Panel bonding in a fiberglass sunroof delete is definitely the way to go. Sunroofs are heavy and high. I’d wonder too if they could save any weight by switching to a FMIC, since most have you delete the heavy steel front reinforcement. Might not be worth the cost though.
For me is a really interesting test. Don't think stock sti is a lot better than stock wrx wagon. And wrx sedan is completely the same than scooby wagon
If you poke around behind the wheel arch liners (near where they meet the side skirts) you should find about 5kg of mud that will have built up over the years
Fast driver in a slow car is often quicker than a slow driver with a fast car. Personally I actually prefer to drive slower cars fast as it's way more fun, requires a bit of skill and running costs are way lower 😆
You should really put that grey bar back in under where the rear seat was, you're probably losing more in body stiffness than you're gaining by saving 6lbs
@6:04 I wonder if this is not the underseat brace potentially providing some extra rigidity like a rear tower brace. Maybe it would be faster with it 😂
I'm afraid they went in backwards. You start by getting it to "fighting weight". Cage it and skin the doors. Then you get the suspension and tire compound working. Once you change the weight the spring rates will be all wrong and the tires might not heat properly. Also if you are light enough you might even downsize the brakes and wheel width because you are fighting less mass. Use a lawnmower/Honda size battery located centrally in the car. Cut 10 Kilos/20 lbs of copper wiring to accessories you aren't using out of the wiring loom. Lose the roof rack and the fog lamps. Remove the alternator from engine and run it off the rear diff. Moves weight lower and weight bias to rear.
Don't forget to remove the motors for the sunroof, rear wiper, and rear windows. Getting the A/C system properly drained shouldn't be too expensive. Either that or maybe the A/C already had a leak when you got the car. You could probably replace the sunroof with an acrylic panel and some silicone to seal it.
The video should be called Bell ends go wild. Love your work. But, the bar under the rear seats that weighs 3kg is a structural stiffness bar. You might want to keep that one. And in a Subaru weight in the rear is better. Removing weight from the front is more important. So, 86 the air-con system, relocate battery to rear, and plug and remove the moisture collector under the air box. Also, due to the loss of heat protection. I suggest cutting a section out near the a and b pullers on the inside of he front panels and putting another hole near the mirrors will vent the heat out. As a bonus your mirrors will not need to be defrosting. So you could get a practicality point from that. Oh, and rear Sway Bars in Subaru are more important especially in wagons.
Just a little tip to keep in mind. I noticed this even when i just put down the rear seats, the torsion resistance of the whole rear went down drasticaly, so i would strongly recomend some rear strut tower bar to regain it.
We raced an old alfasud, had the body acid dipped to remove all underseal etc, totally stripped the car, but added a full rollcage , got it down to 750kg from 900kg standard which I thought was fairly impressive and it made a huge difference to the performance from the 175bhp race motor....
timing summary: pre weight reduction: 1:29.96s, (dry) after weight reduction #1 1430kg --> 1295kg (-135kg / ~10%): 1:38.56s (wet) In other words, thumb this video down, because it was a complete waste of time.
As an owner of an 05 Saab 92x aero (wrx wagon) that I currently daily, but plan to make a track car.. I found this series awesome. I also have a blown-out front driveshaft boot that sprayed grease everywhere.. and a small crack in my windscreen, a nearly dead clutch, and i plan on getting those exact bc coilovers lol. And ive thought about doing 'some' weight reduction as-well. And always thought fully-stripping it would be epic if it wasnt my daily. Id keep the front door cards & both front seats though
I have almost that exact same car (cloth interior instead of leather). The front passenger seat has been out for almost 1.5 years because I've been building a new house and from passenger wheel well to hatch I can get about 9.5 feet (2.9m) of lumber. On the rare occasion that my wife needs to ride, she actually loves the back seat with tons of leg room. WAY more practical without all of those interior bits!😃
Take off the sunroof and tape it off! Also to add to the others sell the components and add it to the budget Also the ac off please take even the vents off cabin air filter and i didnt see them take the stereo unit? Small stuff but adds up
Being a kid born in 86, I was a junior in high school when the WRX and STi’s came to America along with the EVO and Dodge releasing the SRT-4. My best friend at that point in time had an 01 2.5RS that he kept N/A but added the obligatory intake and catback exhaust along with a cam and injectors. What he did that surprised everyone was spent $8k on the top tier suspension, brake and wheel/tire mods. That car, while in the straights would get its doors blown off by even a stock STi, more than made up for it with its ability to blow through corners with what felt like limitless grip and just the right about of over/under steer. Even at the limit that 2.5RS gave me confidence that even a 911 Turbo S couldn’t match in terms of subjective feeling. 36 years old now and I recently finished building my own 01 2.5RS but I went with the EJ25 route that’s relatively tame, however I took the same route as far as suspension, brakes wheels and tires and anyone who has driven it fails to stop smiling their entire drive
You guys should also remove the muffler and just leave the cat on, mufflers are super heavy. Also remove the sunroof and replace it with a thin piece of aluminum. You can also buy some used sway bars from an STI for super cheap that would help too. You could also put on a used, larger diesel turbo and get more power with a tune.
You can also remove: The sunroof, the airbags, the left belt, the window motors (the windows are blocked), the interior sound insulation on the floor, non-functional electrical wiring, the window control panel, the mirror motors, the plastics on the "B" pillars, other interior plastics (discount of another 15-20kg) More extreme can be removed: abs, stability system (with computers and everything), light seat for the pilot, gel battery (still 25-30kg) Total = 40-50 kg
There's another 100lb you could take out of that interior... sunroof, gut the doors and dash for starters. I gutted my Lexus LS400 and even with a full cage, full size battery and fire system its 2900lbs!
Loosing doors will most probably increase the lap time. Too much air faffing about without the doors. Removing sunroof and taping it off, taking away dash plastics would have been great though
Tape up any unused panel gap and hole on the car and make a cheap abs flat indertray for the car and tape up unused holes on that (radiator still needs venting), you might get 5 or 6mph at the end of a straight
Maybe consider hardened titanium lug nuts , they actually make quite a difference. If you can get a solid used set , definitely do so! They are a bit pricey...
I think it's glued to all the plastic trim they took out. I have the same car (USDM) and I had to take the trim off the rear hatch to replace the handle once.
Sell the parts and get a sunroof delete kit to improve the centre of gravity a bit and maybe also a single bucket seat for the driver if you get enough money from the parts, as this will not only save a little weight but also keep the driver in a better, more stable position, which can also make a small difference :)
Speaking about weight reduction, a set of very light wheels could be an idea? If not for this series, for a future video it'd be very interesting to see a comparison between very light and heavier wheels and how much it can actually affect the lap times
I agree, especially because it's 'unsprung' rotating mass. It would effectively put more power to the ground & help it turn in/change direction better on top of just reducing overall weight. I believe for every (lb.) saved with wheels/tires, its equivalent to either 4x or 10x (dont remember which one lol) as much sprung weight
Lowering the suspension without correcting the roll centres almost never makes the car faster because you actually generate more body roll and strange handling characteristics if you lower the car significantly.
I know an idiot that has a NEW m3. He decided to remove the windshield wipers, fluid tank and the water pump. It totaled almost 25 pounds if the tank was full. He doesn't track the car. He has to handwash it a few times a week, can't drive in the rain. Hopefully when he sells it the next owner will be cool with that. He did other weight savings, but this was this silliest. Street only use, never on tracks/
The air that we want to bring in will get out through the cylinder, manifold, turbine and exhaust. I’m talking about getting ambient air to the compressor instead of hot. The duct will be sealed. You’re talking about air pressure in the engine bay generating negative downforce. Different argument with a different solution for a different reason.
“….but it’s now a better van🤷🏼♂️” made me literally LOL. this has been an awesome series guys great job. Great to see the progression and what the effect on the time is.
the track that they took the base lap times was a power track so less drag makes more sense but trying to beat a car that has at least 300hp more than you around a power track doesn't, if they can add some downforce and take the base laps in a downforce focused track, they will have more chance
I did this with my 350Z. I still have the numbers here from the different stages. Stock 3130lbs. Street reduction 2980. Body mods got it down to, 2860. Race reduction 2630. Turbo upgrade 2710. Rollcage 2880. All measurements with full tank of fuel and me. It’s pretty interesting to see how quick these guys shed weight in just one go. Stock was 255whp and 3132lbs with some things already removed: spare, jack, exhaust mods. First reduction was new seats, removing some interior pieces, and everything in the trunk. Mods were carbon bumpers, fender skins, hood, and added wing. Track weight reduction is removing the passenger seat, door cards, and a bunch of other stuff. Tomei turbo and exhaust, Mishimoto intercooler. Rollcage was custom made with a friend who was working to be a chassis fabricator. Current is 550-600whp depending on ambient conditions and 2884lbs with a full tank of fuel, fire suit, extinguisher, helmet, working glass windows, and a radio but no A/C.
@@OVERDRIVE.studios but you could remove a Part of it couldnt you? Remove everything Exept the compressor so the belt is on tension. Or am i missing something?
@@jimmyschwarz9075 the compressor and tensioner are about 4kg probs.. As well you gotta properly degass the ac system, which a technician with right vacuum gear can do, and you pay for that. Back yard degassing is bad for ozone and big fines. But bad for ozone.
I would have gone for some nice slotted rotors, proper pads, and fluid flush., maybe a better master cylinder. I am not really into gutting cars to this extent. Nice content btw
Loving this series! All that weight was not helping the lap times. Shame the English weather robbed us of a time comparison but it looked fun on track.
I remember when you started this channel as a spin off of Driver 61. I wondered if it was worth it when you only had 20k subs, awesome to see you with over 260k subs now!
You guys should of done at least 5 laps each, cut the first two off then average the last three, Anytime my club has a meet or a timed event both the car and us warm up to the track in some cases going from 1:42 time to a 1:14 time lowest during the day with car running nominal the whole day.
With the suspension and tires an alignment and balance would make a huge improvement. Best bang for the buck in my opinion. Of course you need to add the lightness first.
Its really not impressive. It was probably a public track day and alot of expensive motors like that are driven very carefully and nowhere near their max performance.
If I was driving a super car, I'd exercise some restraint due to the price. But for a junker like that, I'd take the slow corners more aggressively as there is less to lose.
In regards to todays sponsor, if someone wants to chuck me £10 I'll send you a pointless piece of paper that'll say you're a supreme leader which carries just as much weight as one of these buy online Lord titles.
I did this to a car for ice racing once. The primary difference was that the heater could no longer keep up with the warm air fleeing through the sheet metal.
Everyone needs more than their salary to be financiaIIy stable. The best thing to do with your money is to lnvest it rightly because money left for savings always end up used with no returns.
Nicely said indeed, I think Mr Ryan Morrison is the best step to take following the current situation of the world economy, I have never believed in Bitcoin or crypto currency in all, but this has been a life changing encounter today!!
This is fantastic, I have an '07 Subaru Impreza wagon of the same colour here in BC, Canada and it is totally amazing, especially in bad road conditions. This is so COOL!!
My skyline r34gt-Four was 10secs to 100kph. After stripping and lightweight flywheel with full suspension overhaul it’s 7.8secs Weight makes a huge difference.
i think getting rid of the sunroof would be worth it, you'd save like 10 kilos off the top of the car and i can't imagine an insert being too expensive
I guess you could easily shave off another 50kg. Throw the window mechanisms out and glue the Windows in. Same goes for rear door locks. Get rid of sound insulation(with dry ice). Cut out unnecessary wiring (for the extras you threw out and for the extras you wont use. Heater and AC you don't need that. Also ABS(you're not gona use it anyways). All the plastic bits and pieces from under the car. Leave the front interior trim and the door cards be (drivers seat ergonomics, he cant constantly worryabout cuting himself on the door). Both Airbags should go out as you don't have a passenger and you will need ro change the sterling wheel anyway. Throw out the sunroof mechanism and just glue the cover in or buy a fiberglass cover. And than go get a grinder, you can cut out internals of your boot lid, rear doors. Than get your hole saw and start cuting holes in your boot lid and rear doors (you can silver tape them later). So a long weight shading way to go.
Firstly I'd like to say that I love that you've gone for the "it's now a practical van" approach. Secondly: removing the sunroof and welding the hole shut could save a few crucial kg at the highest point of the car. Also: I can't exactly remember how adjustable the suspension is but I'd also suggest to retune it since it's now set up for a car that's 135kg heavier.
I think they didn’t get the full suspension tune yet in that video because they had stuff like this in mind.
Car is to bouncy, which indicate to harshly dampening.
Sway bars is about the only other costly upgrade.
@@Jonesy781
Yeah It'd be clever to make an episode like "how much faster is pro suspension tuning"
Panel bonding in a fiberglass sunroof delete is definitely the way to go. Sunroofs are heavy and high.
I’d wonder too if they could save any weight by switching to a FMIC, since most have you delete the heavy steel front reinforcement. Might not be worth the cost though.
When the money isn't enough. You can sell the parts😉
Great irl advice if you're really doing this but would probably take a while for the video.
Add that to the budget!
Or the driver.
That's brilliant
For me is a really interesting test. Don't think stock sti is a lot better than stock wrx wagon. And wrx sedan is completely the same than scooby wagon
Does selling the seats and interior parts add up to the 15k budget?
Fair play as far as I'm concerned!
@@grayaj23 i back it up as well
should be allowed really because realistically thats what someone would do
There's stuff there I'd buy lol
I bid £80 for that passenger seat.
"We've borrowed dad's subaru" got me chuckling pretty hard
that car but in blue was my dads car for 15 years but it blew up in 2019 sadly.
@@Zaxaphone my dad's subi blew up in 10
@@sufferr2914 must have been riding it really hard to blow it up in ten minutes
it’s weird because my dad has an identical car just it’s a saloon. Same colour.
@@Zaxaphone Was it an IED?
I was a few garages down from you guys in my Gtr! I wondered what you were up to! Absolutely brilliant 😂
We heard whenever you flew past!!
@@OVERDRIVE.studios yes it’s rather loud haha! Look forward to seeing the result of this video! Bet it saves you a good few seconds
@@Lofi.z34 Thankyou 😁
Lol awesome
If you poke around behind the wheel arch liners (near where they meet the side skirts) you should find about 5kg of mud that will have built up over the years
😂 Great point
Lmao that’s funny and true same with the brz youll get some crud in the front fenders some how I had leaves in mines xD
in my Kia Rio it was about that much (in total in the front and rear wheel arch liners) )))))))))))))))))))
This mainly shows that track knowledge and skill+experience is vastly more important than equipment
Fast driver in a slow car is often quicker than a slow driver with a fast car.
Personally I actually prefer to drive slower cars fast as it's way more fun, requires a bit of skill and running costs are way lower 😆
@@justincase9471 And it's easier to drive a 105 brake golf to the limit than it is a 400 brake GTR ;)
@@SpartanMJO12 Tell me about it! I am driving my shitbox diesel (130hp / 1460kg) on the Nordschleife and its hella lot of fun 🤣
So true. The driver is 90% of the track time performance
Love the Pista blinking to the side.
You should really put that grey bar back in under where the rear seat was, you're probably losing more in body stiffness than you're gaining by saving 6lbs
Maybe you have a big point here
I thought the same thing, why remove a rear sway bar? They also potentially messed with aero by removing the side fairings
@@brandonfields5720 it was a body brace not a sway bar but yeah I thought the same about them removing the rocker covers
@@jk5rt4kd8q nomenclature certainly isn't my strong suit. Rip. But yeah, they definitely made some interesting choices
Didnt make any sense to me.. removing something structually solid like that, essentially in a big empty tin can
I still think the Wagon still looks close enough to a rally-car if you squint enough
Crouch and look at it from the front, totally a Subaru rally car
Don’t forget to spray a bit of mud around the bumpers.
A lot of actual rally cars are hatches
or drink enough...
Can rally just fine in a wagon!
Love watching this Suba get quicker each episode, and how much fun the guys are having doing it.
I hope that they will stay away from tuning the engine 😉
@@justincase9471 team supercar?
i've grown attached to dad's subi now... it's like our little baby growing more ripped with each gym session.
10:25 It's a WRX wagon, that's completly normal phenomenom. I'm actually amazed that in the UK in a WRX Wagon there are still rear strut towers left!
I think thicker ARBs and strut braces would be worth it after you fitted the coilovers. I did felt quite a difference after in my Subaru.
Technically the things you took off could be sold and added to the budget
I love this channel! This helps me have a better understanding on cars.
I'd definitely put that Chassis brace back in the boot. It's definitely worth the 3kg until you get a roll cage
I agree a rigid car allow the suspension to work as designed.
This is why the brilliant engineer's at Mitsubishi Australia designed the 380 with only a ski port and no folding rear seats.
10:37 the ultimate weight reduction
rust (some might say it's lighter than carbon fiber)
Cobb downpipe/20g turbo/turbo inlet pipe, Tomei equal length headers and up-pipe, Cobb Ti catback, fuel injectors and rails, fuel pump, front mount intercooler, radiator, intake, bypass valve, boost controller, custom tune. done
@6:04 I wonder if this is not the underseat brace potentially providing some extra rigidity like a rear tower brace.
Maybe it would be faster with it 😂
Yep, should definitely stay
That brace is for side crash protection for the rear seats. It does little to nothing for chassis rigidity.
Yes, I'm not sure why they removed it lol
@@DeadRedRider it does a fair bit in our experience
Thats exactly what its for , it'll handle worse now and probably wouldn't pass as road legal or insurable
You took a Subaru and turned it into every 90s JDM fan's Honda Civic 🤣
Not bad for a clapped-out car eh?
You removed the rear anti swaybar to save 1.5kg! Geniuses! 🤣
I'm afraid they went in backwards. You start by getting it to "fighting weight". Cage it and skin the doors. Then you get the suspension and tire compound working. Once you change the weight the spring rates will be all wrong and the tires might not heat properly. Also if you are light enough you might even downsize the brakes and wheel width because you are fighting less mass.
Use a lawnmower/Honda size battery located centrally in the car. Cut 10 Kilos/20 lbs of copper wiring to accessories you aren't using out of the wiring loom.
Lose the roof rack and the fog lamps. Remove the alternator from engine and run it off the rear diff. Moves weight lower and weight bias to rear.
Holy words... also maybe remove AC system and vents
spot on
Don't forget to remove the motors for the sunroof, rear wiper, and rear windows. Getting the A/C system properly drained shouldn't be too expensive. Either that or maybe the A/C already had a leak when you got the car. You could probably replace the sunroof with an acrylic panel and some silicone to seal it.
Gotta love a place where you can go back and forth between two circuits that have been used in F1 in a normal day.
The video should be called Bell ends go wild. Love your work. But, the bar under the rear seats that weighs 3kg is a structural stiffness bar. You might want to keep that one.
And in a Subaru weight in the rear is better. Removing weight from the front is more important. So, 86 the air-con system, relocate battery to rear, and plug and remove the moisture collector under the air box.
Also, due to the loss of heat protection. I suggest cutting a section out near the a and b pullers on the inside of he front panels and putting another hole near the mirrors will vent the heat out. As a bonus your mirrors will not need to be defrosting. So you could get a practicality point from that.
Oh, and rear Sway Bars in Subaru are more important especially in wagons.
Just a little tip to keep in mind. I noticed this even when i just put down the rear seats, the torsion resistance of the whole rear went down drasticaly, so i would strongly recomend some rear strut tower bar to regain it.
Putting a cage in would make a dramatic difference to the stiff factor
Definitely do a dry lap time next time guys!! I really want to see the time difference!!
We raced an old alfasud, had the body acid dipped to remove all underseal etc, totally stripped the car, but added a full rollcage , got it down to 750kg from 900kg standard which I thought was fairly impressive and it made a huge difference to the performance from the 175bhp race motor....
timing summary: pre weight reduction: 1:29.96s, (dry)
after weight reduction #1 1430kg --> 1295kg (-135kg / ~10%): 1:38.56s (wet)
In other words, thumb this video down, because it was a complete waste of time.
Owning two wagons in almost this exact spec makes me love your choice of vehicle even more :)
As an owner of an 05 Saab 92x aero (wrx wagon) that I currently daily, but plan to make a track car.. I found this series awesome. I also have a blown-out front driveshaft boot that sprayed grease everywhere.. and a small crack in my windscreen, a nearly dead clutch, and i plan on getting those exact bc coilovers lol. And ive thought about doing 'some' weight reduction as-well. And always thought fully-stripping it would be epic if it wasnt my daily. Id keep the front door cards & both front seats though
“I can daily this” is one strong commitment
I have almost that exact same car (cloth interior instead of leather). The front passenger seat has been out for almost 1.5 years because I've been building a new house and from passenger wheel well to hatch I can get about 9.5 feet (2.9m) of lumber. On the rare occasion that my wife needs to ride, she actually loves the back seat with tons of leg room. WAY more practical without all of those interior bits!😃
These videos are too short for how long we have to wait for each
This is one of the best auto series I've seen on or offline. Really enjoying it chaps! 👌🤘
They removed the interior rear chassis brace to save 3 lb? Isn't this a track car?
Take off the sunroof and tape it off! Also to add to the others sell the components and add it to the budget
Also the ac off please take even the vents off cabin air filter and i didnt see them take the stereo unit? Small stuff but adds up
Being a kid born in 86, I was a junior in high school when the WRX and STi’s came to America along with the EVO and Dodge releasing the SRT-4. My best friend at that point in time had an 01 2.5RS that he kept N/A but added the obligatory intake and catback exhaust along with a cam and injectors. What he did that surprised everyone was spent $8k on the top tier suspension, brake and wheel/tire mods. That car, while in the straights would get its doors blown off by even a stock STi, more than made up for it with its ability to blow through corners with what felt like limitless grip and just the right about of over/under steer. Even at the limit that 2.5RS gave me confidence that even a 911 Turbo S couldn’t match in terms of subjective feeling. 36 years old now and I recently finished building my own 01 2.5RS but I went with the EJ25 route that’s relatively tame, however I took the same route as far as suspension, brakes wheels and tires and anyone who has driven it fails to stop smiling their entire drive
You guys should also remove the muffler and just leave the cat on, mufflers are super heavy. Also remove the sunroof and replace it with a thin piece of aluminum. You can also buy some used sway bars from an STI for super cheap that would help too. You could also put on a used, larger diesel turbo and get more power with a tune.
You can also remove:
The sunroof, the airbags, the left belt, the window motors (the windows are blocked), the interior sound insulation on the floor, non-functional electrical wiring, the window control panel, the mirror motors, the plastics on the "B" pillars, other interior plastics
(discount of another 15-20kg)
More extreme can be removed: abs, stability system (with computers and everything), light seat for the pilot, gel battery (still 25-30kg)
Total = 40-50 kg
There's another 100lb you could take out of that interior... sunroof, gut the doors and dash for starters. I gutted my Lexus LS400 and even with a full cage, full size battery and fire system its 2900lbs!
Loosing doors will most probably increase the lap time. Too much air faffing about without the doors. Removing sunroof and taping it off, taking away dash plastics would have been great though
Tracking an LS400... I tip my hat to you!
Ditch the air con and the stereo as well
lexus uses thicker steel
@@thecompanioncube4211 gut the doors means take them all the way down to the skin. Window regulators and power locks out.
Put the underseat brace back in (rigidity) and take the dash top off, passenger airbag etc.
I think these guys should be the new top gear
Seriously. They have great chemistry together, very entertaining car content, and plenty of humor
Tape up any unused panel gap and hole on the car and make a cheap abs flat indertray for the car and tape up unused holes on that (radiator still needs venting), you might get 5 or 6mph at the end of a straight
Maybe consider hardened titanium lug nuts , they actually make quite a difference. If you can get a solid used set , definitely do so! They are a bit pricey...
Does it have sound dampening and will you be removing that ? ChrisFix said his weighted quite a bit and was worth removing.
I think it's glued to all the plastic trim they took out. I have the same car (USDM) and I had to take the trim off the rear hatch to replace the handle once.
@@salacommander2674 it would be Chrisfix froze his and broke it up with a hammer. Seems to need the same
25lbs in my 93. A little bit more in that wagon.
Sell the parts and get a sunroof delete kit to improve the centre of gravity a bit and maybe also a single bucket seat for the driver if you get enough money from the parts, as this will not only save a little weight but also keep the driver in a better, more stable position, which can also make a small difference :)
One lap? I would guess that driver errors will equate to 2-3 seconds easy, hard to believe this video with one data set.
Speaking about weight reduction, a set of very light wheels could be an idea? If not for this series, for a future video it'd be very interesting to see a comparison between very light and heavier wheels and how much it can actually affect the lap times
I agree, especially because it's 'unsprung' rotating mass. It would effectively put more power to the ground & help it turn in/change direction better on top of just reducing overall weight. I believe for every (lb.) saved with wheels/tires, its equivalent to either 4x or 10x (dont remember which one lol) as much sprung weight
If it's lighter now, you can lower the suspension and make the car even faster
Lowering the suspension without correcting the roll centres almost never makes the car faster because you actually generate more body roll and strange handling characteristics if you lower the car significantly.
The factory workers who took 3 days to assemble the car: 👁👄👁
I know an idiot that has a NEW m3. He decided to remove the windshield wipers, fluid tank and the water pump. It totaled almost 25 pounds if the tank was full. He doesn't track the car. He has to handwash it a few times a week, can't drive in the rain. Hopefully when he sells it the next owner will be cool with that. He did other weight savings, but this was this silliest. Street only use, never on tracks/
Less weight is free so doesn’t affect the modding budget.
Get as much ambient air as possible blasting into the air box and intercooler
Actually its profit
Less weight, more pocket change!
its not air in (there's plenty) its getting it out; need more exit area.
The air that we want to bring in will get out through the cylinder, manifold, turbine and exhaust.
I’m talking about getting ambient air to the compressor instead of hot.
The duct will be sealed.
You’re talking about air pressure in the engine bay generating negative downforce.
Different argument with a different solution for a different reason.
Weight reduction +£1 at the end had me creased ahaha
After removing weight, you need to set the suspension ride heights and corner weights again.
That's actually a really good point
“….but it’s now a better van🤷🏼♂️” made me literally LOL. this has been an awesome series guys great job. Great to see the progression and what the effect on the time is.
Impressive! I would do the sunroof delete too though because it could help lower your centre of mass.
Exhausts are pretty heavy. Out with it.
You gonna put some big aero wing on it to generate some downforce and faster corner speeds?
adds weight and drag on the straights.....
@@spinnetti it's all about balance. A car can also be too light.
the track that they took the base lap times was a power track so less drag makes more sense but trying to beat a car that has at least 300hp more than you around a power track doesn't, if they can add some downforce and take the base laps in a downforce focused track, they will have more chance
At 6:23, "I'm sorry Ms. Jackson, oooooo! I am for real!"
You guys could sell the parts to a scrap yard and get a bit moe budget
I did this with my 350Z. I still have the numbers here from the different stages. Stock 3130lbs. Street reduction 2980. Body mods got it down to, 2860. Race reduction 2630. Turbo upgrade 2710. Rollcage 2880. All measurements with full tank of fuel and me.
It’s pretty interesting to see how quick these guys shed weight in just one go.
Stock was 255whp and 3132lbs with some things already removed: spare, jack, exhaust mods.
First reduction was new seats, removing some interior pieces, and everything in the trunk.
Mods were carbon bumpers, fender skins, hood, and added wing.
Track weight reduction is removing the passenger seat, door cards, and a bunch of other stuff.
Tomei turbo and exhaust, Mishimoto intercooler.
Rollcage was custom made with a friend who was working to be a chassis fabricator.
Current is 550-600whp depending on ambient conditions and 2884lbs with a full tank of fuel, fire suit, extinguisher, helmet, working glass windows, and a radio but no A/C.
I will give you guys a bucket seat with rails for a new age inpreza already on.
Drop us an email! It's in the About section on the channel.
Can't find an email address on the about
"I'm having too much fun, and I don't give a toss". Spot on mate :)
you should've pulled that stuff out carefully and sold it all. Also, I'm fairly certain that bar for the rear bench is for added structural rigidity
watching you destroy good interior pieces hurts...
Cant believe you didnt take off the rear bumper/ rear hatch and trunk/ climate vents and front radio junk
No A/C delete? I think that'd be another 10-15kg. And free as well.
Did it in mine 13 kg
You need to purchase a blanking plate, and we decided to save the cash.
@@OVERDRIVE.studios but you could remove a Part of it couldnt you? Remove everything Exept the compressor so the belt is on tension. Or am i missing something?
@@jimmyschwarz9075 the compressor and tensioner are about 4kg probs..
As well you gotta properly degass the ac system, which a technician with right vacuum gear can do, and you pay for that. Back yard degassing is bad for ozone and big fines. But bad for ozone.
@@OVERDRIVE.studios Ahh, I didn't consider that. Cheaper than replacing a seat with a racing seat though, and about the same weight saving.
Really surprised at the amount of weight that came out of it, was expecting less than half that! Stock Subarus are FAT
I would have gone for some nice slotted rotors, proper pads, and fluid flush., maybe a better master cylinder.
I am not really into gutting cars to this extent.
Nice content btw
Loving this series! All that weight was not helping the lap times. Shame the English weather robbed us of a time comparison but it looked fun on track.
I remember when you started this channel as a spin off of Driver 61. I wondered if it was worth it when you only had 20k subs, awesome to see you with over 260k subs now!
You guys should of done at least 5 laps each, cut the first two off then average the last three, Anytime my club has a meet or a timed event both the car and us warm up to the track in some cases going from 1:42 time to a 1:14 time lowest during the day with car running nominal the whole day.
This series is so brilliant
This is like a professional copy of what CarThrottle did with their mitsubishi Spacestar, and I'm all for it
There is something heartwarming about seeing a wagon smash down a racetrack 😍
Did I miss EP4?
With the suspension and tires an alignment and balance would make a huge improvement. Best bang for the buck in my opinion. Of course you need to add the lightness first.
What a waste. I watched a whole video to see if there was any point for weight reduction. And you show no comparison.
across the water over here… I absolutely love this series. Top 3 on UA-cam for sure. Hope to see more of these in the future🔥👊🏼
Damn impressive that he was able to pass those supercars. Racing driver or not.
Its really not impressive. It was probably a public track day and alot of expensive motors like that are driven very carefully and nowhere near their max performance.
I had exactly that car as our family car a few years ago. Was a superb car with the produce kit on it with 280bhp. Fuel bill was a bit pricey though.
Loved the video but its pretty click baity to not show the time difference when that's the whole point of the video...
If I was driving a super car, I'd exercise some restraint due to the price. But for a junker like that, I'd take the slow corners more aggressively as there is less to lose.
In regards to todays sponsor, if someone wants to chuck me £10 I'll send you a pointless piece of paper that'll say you're a supreme leader which carries just as much weight as one of these buy online Lord titles.
Yeah the ritle things are shit
I did this to a car for ice racing once. The primary difference was that the heater could no longer keep up with the warm air fleeing through the sheet metal.
Everyone needs more than their salary to be financiaIIy stable. The best thing to do with your money is to lnvest it rightly because money left for savings always end up used with no returns.
Nicely said indeed, I think Mr Ryan Morrison is the best step to take following the current situation of the world economy, I have never believed in Bitcoin or crypto currency in all, but this has been a life changing encounter today!!
This is fantastic, I have an '07 Subaru Impreza wagon of the same colour here in BC, Canada and it is totally amazing, especially in bad road conditions. This is so COOL!!
My skyline r34gt-Four was 10secs to 100kph. After stripping and lightweight flywheel with full suspension overhaul it’s 7.8secs
Weight makes a huge difference.
@1:27 love hearing a lambo huracan or r8 behind the scens
i think getting rid of the sunroof would be worth it, you'd save like 10 kilos off the top of the car and i can't imagine an insert being too expensive
What about adding an exhaust dump right past the cat? Add some power on track while keeping it road legal when the car is on the street.
not legal in the UK
Most UK circuits have very strict noise limits
Is it possible that in the end you'll have to add some weight to the trunk of the car for better weight distribution?
Can probably just compensate with playing with spring rate balance front to rear
These video's are fun experiments!
Need to take power steering belt off as well as ac and that will give you a surprising amount of free hp
just so you know, flat bottomed underbody can reduce drag by at least 15kg :)
I've finally subscribed! You drew me in with this build series. I love Scott's race analysis and commentary, but this addition is fantastic!
I guess you could easily shave off another 50kg.
Throw the window mechanisms out and glue the Windows in. Same goes for rear door locks. Get rid of sound insulation(with dry ice). Cut out unnecessary wiring (for the extras you threw out and for the extras you wont use. Heater and AC you don't need that. Also ABS(you're not gona use it anyways). All the plastic bits and pieces from under the car. Leave the front interior trim and the door cards be (drivers seat ergonomics, he cant constantly worryabout cuting himself on the door). Both Airbags should go out as you don't have a passenger and you will need ro change the sterling wheel anyway. Throw out the sunroof mechanism and just glue the cover in or buy a fiberglass cover. And than go get a grinder, you can cut out internals of your boot lid, rear doors. Than get your hole saw and start cuting holes in your boot lid and rear doors (you can silver tape them later). So a long weight shading way to go.
These episodes can't come soon enough !!!
That's great! Needs moar power now!
Scott's hello bo- Jesus christ 😂, when he saw the pile of stuff
I don't know guys. I see bits of dashboard there still which look unnecessary ;)