Should I Still Service My Tractor if I Don't Put Many Hours On?
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- Опубліковано 9 бер 2022
- Had a viewer question from Mark. He wanted to know if he still needed to service his tractor if he hadn't met the recommended hour interval yet. In other words, if the owner's manual says to change the oil every 100 hours and you put 5 hours a year on it, could you only change the oil once every 20 years? That's an extreme case, but he's heard that you do your service once a year, or when the manual says, whichever comes first.
I'm not a petroleum engineer so I don't really know the answer. I think the crankcase is enough of a closed system that it won't get moisture in there, so you can go a little longer time interval with oil changes if you don't put that many hours on your tractor. I'm curious what my viewers think.
The area that I wouldn't risk longer service intervals, especially if I don't use the tractor that much is the fuel system. That fuel filter should be changed once a year, and serviced anytime you see moisture in the fuel bowl. You could probably go a few extra months without changing the oil, but you have to keep clean fuel going in the engine, especially with these new environmentally friendly engines. There are such tight tolerances in the fuel injection system that any debris or water in there and you have a major repair.
The second area that I'd sure want to maintain regularly is the air intake system. Check that air filter often to make sure it's not caked full of dirt, especially in dusty conditions. When you can no longer shake the dirt out of your tractor's air filter, replace it.
Something I didn't mention in the video is to try to keep the tractor's radiator clean and the fins free from obstructions. A clogged radiator can lead to a hot engine and you don't want that.
Diesel engines seem to be really forgiving on engine and hydraulic oil changes, as long as you don't run them too long, or let levels get low (or overfill the system). Keep the fuel clean, filtered air coming in and cool air going through the radiator and your tractor should last as long as you do.
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In the refining world, latest lube oil data indicates that anti-corrosion additives are exhausted 6 months after being exposed to air. So the recommendation for us is 6 months change outs. So for my equipment, I change every spring and fall as I rarely exceed 100 hours.
Please cite the study that indicates oil additives are depleted in six months. If there is something like that, look closely as it probably is part of a sales pitch to get you to buy more oil. Certainly additives CAN be depleted in six months but that is conditional. A blanket statement like yours would be inaccurate. In a relatively stable temperature and humidity environment, oil can last years in a low hours situation. As @Jax Turner stated below, testing can determine the correct time interval. Often logic and an assessment of the storage conditions will offer a clue if the owner is unwilling or unable to do testing. If the equipment in a damp, muggy environment and gets rained on, a shorter interval would be required. A dry desert environment would stretch the interval out. Better storage conditions could make a difference too. Condensation is an enemy and avoiding rapid temperature swings is helpful in avoiding it. Also, scheduling regular operation to get the oil up to temp for 15-30 minutes is helpful as well. I live what I preached here and after a number of years of oil testing and observation, I set the time limit on my equipment at 3 years. Occasionally, one will actually reach that before the hour limit kicks in but it's worked for me over about 20 years. One of my tractors is approaching 9000 hours and the engine has never been apart... at least in the 20 years I have owned it.
Same for boats. You'll get vorrosion in the crankcase above the oil level from the exhaust gas that makes the oil acidic. My used ford 3000 diesel had this issue when I got it. Agree👍
I’ve always been a firm believer in yearly oil changes, mainly in spring. I probably don’t put 10 hours a year on my 64 Ford 2000. I put WAYY more hours on my lawn mower but I change the oil in both at the same time. Even though it’s costly, to me, there’s something therapeutic about pouring that fresh oil in every year.
In the military and in government municipal fleets that sit unused for long periods, they take fluid samples annually and send them in. Then they change whatever needs it accordingly.
No way you change fluids on 20 bulldozers just because it’s been a couple years since the last service.
Filters should be changed at whatever hour intervals are suggested.
Like you said this stuff is tuff but extra attention can save you some headaches down the road and also waste a lot of money. Yet another level of rational and wisdom that farmers had to have just to make ends meet back in the day.
Gramps never said it was easy👍
If you got to get under the thing and open a drain plug and get oil for a sample everywhere then you might as well do the service all together
The military did a huge long term study on this. They found that changing the oil was rarely needed but changing the oil filter was very important. They learned. That analysis of the oil could often identify what parts were wearing or other engine problems. This was done in tanks, cars, trucks, heavy equipment of all kinds. The only real difference is the military uses a fuel that is close to diesel but slightly more volatile. So there would be a higher problem of fuel/oil contamination than in straight diesel. Talking with mechanics and looking a supply records they do almost no oil changes. Just top off. Remember most small tractor size filters hold about 1 quart of oil.
@@austin3626 😂 omg I cannot imagine anyone doing it like that. Nobody would.
Trying to pull the inch and a half drain plug with 8 gallons of oil behind it out to catch a spoonful of oil and then shove the plug back in……..
Never.
They had an electric sucker pump that pulled it out of the dipstick tube and put it in a little sample jar to send in. You didn’t get under anything, you could collect samples of five different fluids on twenty different pieces of equipment in a couple hours and not even get your hands dirty.
@@brianhillis3701 the military uses JP8.
In everything.
My grandfather would change the oil out of the family car and the farm truck, save it and then change the oil in the tractor with the used oil! I now on this 1952 Ford 8n and when I changed the oil in it I put the first new oil in it, the last oil change was over 22yrs ago, with just a little TLC I run that tractor with pride !!! He just used a new filter!
We did that with an old dodge truck we used for gathering firewood and dump runs. It burnt oil fast enough that we never changed it. We just kept it topped off with a jug of used oil.
Remember oil and filters are much cheaper then iron change them often
My neighbor friend had a Ford Maverick and he just kept adding used oil.
We have just bought our first new tractor. I have started watching your videos, and you have taught me a load.
I would change the coolant as recommended, especially on a wet sleeved diesel engine. Get the engine oil good and hot in the winter to burn off any moisture and you should be fine...great topic.
This is very helpful - thanks Mike!
Great subject. I agree with your comments and filters are important. Thank you.
Great advice. I write the date of service on all my filters, belts, wipers etc. Have a productive day.
As a mechanic I'll chime in for a moment. Oftentimes you will see a service interval that says something like 'change engine oil every 100 hours or once a year, whichever comes first'. Engine oil can get condensation from sitting a long period of time. That condensation can have negative effects on engine bearings etc. On engine oil, I'd talk it over with a few dealer mechanics. If you only put just a handful of hours on the machine each year, and you run a good quality oil and filter then in most conditions you should fine to extend your service interval longer. If your tractor sets outside, I'd recommend once a year especially in an area of lots of moisture. As for coolant, don't extend service interval too long. Old coolant gets acidic. Acidic coolant rots head gaskets, radiators etc. Hope this helps
Great video ! I think some of it boils down to oil companies wanting to sell more products. They get you to believe the oil additives are toast in a few months and if don’t change it often it’s going to cost you more. Have a Blessed Day
Mike, the way to keep condensation out of the oil is to start it periodically and run it up to operating temperature. I believe changing the oil filter regularly is more important due to the paper element inside of it. If the unit has low hours but calls for service, just change the filter and top up with oil. Love your videos Mike! Keep them coming please! Doug.
Glad you posted on this topic. I’ll put less than 20 hours a year on my old 8N tractor.
You’re right about air filters. When I was teenager, I ran an air scoop on a four barrel carburetor on a Chevy 283 engine. The engine literally bored itself out within 13,000 miles.
Great video, Mike! That guy who asked the question is on top of stuff!
Yup, he's an okay dude! Thanks for the idea, got a lot of comments out of it.
My Kubota subcompact just hit 150 hours and had its first full fluid change this past fall. It has had air, oil and filter changes at every 50 hours of operation and greased twice per year. Fuel filter changes are a real pain so I make sure and use a conditioner with a drying agent in the diesel fuel. I think this has proven to be more than sufficient to handle my conditions here in western NY. Love the videos and info Mike.
Interesting. I’m a newbie tractor owner ( ~2 years). Bought used, changed stuff a year ago out of caution. Thought I would do same again this year despite low hours ( hobby farmer !) but might now relax a bit whilst still being conservative overall. Thanks as always Mike!
Bravo Mike, I routinely go 3 years or so and replace oil at that point even if the hours quite aren’t there yet. The annual thing seems like huge overkill.
Worked in a petroleum lab and also as a mechanic in my early days. I do it once a year no matter what because fuel blow by will mix with oil and change the ph making your oil more acidic which wears the internal engine parts faster. If there was a way to prevent fuel vapors from contacting the engine oil I would be one of those 20 year oil changers.
That sounds good Alan & i heard synthetic oil breaks down faster
I’m with you mostly Mike. I don’t put enough hours on mine. Change oil and filter about every 2 years, hydraulic oil and filter I do at the required hours or maybe a little before if it’s been a few years.
I have a Bronson tractor the oil said I put in it are from Napa and it's their top grade oil too all oil companies I feel put out a good grade of oil I don't necessarily buy the cheapest oils to put in my tractor I always try to put the best oil I can get in it I do watch your program a lot and I have learned a lot from your program on tractors and I am 64 years old I just figured I would throw that in thank you for talking about the fluids and changing the hydraulic fluid thank you and have a good day
Napa oil and filters are the worst, just google napa filter reviews.
Mike as a retired heavy diesel mechanic. I have seen CAT equipment sit idle for a year or more and then being used on a job site and all they did was check all fluids and grease it. The oils, filters and grease quality today is far superior than products of the 60s. I have friends that are BIG FARMERS and some that I call HOBBY FARMERS, manuals are great so is a little common sense.
Example my own personal 3/4 ton pickup which is a 1996 with 150,000 miles. I change the oil every 15,000 miles and oil filter is changed every 5,000 miles. And the oil I prefer is Rotella 15W40 or Mobil Delvac; a little over a year ago I started using Rotella Synthetic 5W40 and the old girl is still HAPPY!!!
Oh I forgot to mention the engine is GAS and yes I use diesel oil in my gas engine!!!
Hi Mike, maybe it goes without saying - especially for some of us with older tractors that are less sealed than the new ones. Any oil that has turned milky should be changed. And running fluids up to temperature to remove moisture will help prevent that.
Super great topic Mike!! Ive wondered about this for years. I change oil, hst, hydraulic filters and lubes by manual hours. Not dates. I check Air filters weekly, and daily after every high weed cut. I look at the water fuel separator every time I start the machine, and pull and inspect the filter every month. Im shocked at the corrosion and algae buildup that I find within the element. Im in west central FL so I dont know if that's simply humidity related? Or my local fuel depots are just getting a substandard form of desil product. I also remove and clean the radiator filter screen after every cutting job, and blow out the radiator and oil cooler as well.
Mike , I have a John Deere 650 with a Yanmar diesel that I bought new 38 years ago. I have 1800 hours on the tractor and do all of my own service. I also worked in Service Engineering for a car company my whole career. I change the engine oil and filter between 50 and 100 engine hours or 1 year which ever comes first. I have run the engine on Mobil 1 since the first oil change and I use factory filters. To me changing the engine oil is cheap insurance and I have always had a high respect for Modil 1 since it was introduced and my engine for a diesel is spotless on the inside.
I also look at my fuel filter every time I walk by. I watch for the paper filter turning darker and loose dirt or water in the bottom of the bowl. Then I change the fuel filters. I installed a primary filter with more bowl area to catch water in case I ever see any. I change the manual transmission/ hydraulic fluid at the recomended 600 hours with the spin on filter. Engine oil can produce condensation/ moisture just like a car engine if it is used for many short tasks where it doesn't get up to full temperature. The moisture can lead to corrosion and also acids can build up in the pan with seasonal temperature changes. I wouldn't recomend going more than a year without an engine oil change . Can it do it ? Yes it can. Is it worth it. Not really especially if you change your own.
Things to take into consideration. For the engine, the moisture would be from cold running, and condensation. I would run two years on engine oil if you aren't at the hours for service. If you are over two years, then go ahead and change it. For hydraulics, if your tractor has quick couplers for front or rear remotes, then I would urge folks to follow the maintenance schedule. Fuel Filters, I would follow the recommended maintenance schedule for hours. As you add fuel, you open the fuel system for dirt to enter. Air Filters, I would change them depending on the application at schedule or more if it is working in a dirty environment. If you only have a single element air filter, then I wouldn't blow it out. If it has an inner and outer air filter element, only blow out the outer element. Blowing filters can cause damage to the filter media.
Thank you Sir!
I bought my tractor 4 years ago for snow removal. A Kubota B2650. The service interval is 50 hours, with varying requirements, of course. But, not knowing a thing about tractors nor maintenance, I decided before I purchased that I was quite content to take my tractor to my dealer for each and every 50 hour maintenance interval. I’m sure some will hold the view that this is a colossal waste of money. Perhaps. But peace of mind is a minuscule price to pay relative to the cost of purchase. To each their own, of course. Great video!!
Simply, I agree with you Mike. Hours mean more than the scheduled duration of time... unless it's several years of time.
Me and my dad bought a minneapolis-moline m670 from a farm auction that was an extremely rough condition and we totally forgot to change the oil and ran it for three years our secondary tractor till I finally changed the oil and it still run great to this day.
I go by hours myself. Fuel filters I change more for sure. Especially the little in line one like I have under my floor board. They can cause it to bog down at times. I’ve experienced that just this year and was changed not many hours ago. 4 quarts of hydraulic is expensive and I know it can last longer. I definitely agree with that.
Afternoon Mike, This is my take on fluid changes. My wife and I put a 100-120 hrs a year on our Kubota. I change oil and filter every spring. I change the gas filter each spring and fall. The transmission filter every 30o hours. The air filter in the spring, summer and fall I blow out after each use. In the winter I inspect it each third use. This is just what I’m comfortable with. As a result of diesel and gas degrading it would be good to drain them out or put a stabilizer in.
Its all depends Mike, if your starting your tractor and stopping only for short period that will cause a condensation in the oil regardless off hours worked or time period, so I think your better checking the oil with your finger and thumb
Great video, Mike!! Whew...the next thing you'll broach is "What brand of oil to use?" Oh gosh...never touch that one. Growing up, all AC & Gleaners (w/a Deutz engine on the latest Gleaner). At my business, one Bobcat (863 Deutz powered), a couple Perkins-powered forklifts, my dad's weird, odd-duck AC 160 (Perkins 3.152) and a hodge-podge of Nissan-powered propane lifts. Plus a Caterpillar C12 road tractor used to move trailers around on the lot. How do I measure when the perfect time is? Daylight savings time! I can't chase down equipment, engine/use hrs...it's exhausting! I can't keep up with it. The weekend we switch (this weekend!), I'll change the air, engine and fuel. Same deal in November...that way I can budget my costs, easy for maintenance records...the Deutz's are an amazing engine, and I love them. Lots of power, long life...but like Mike said, clean air. That's the key on Deutz engines...clean the air fins and filters out all the time.
There's a saying "Oil is cheap, engines are expensive" Engine oil gets contaminated with combustion by-products and these contaminants can cause problems in your engine if the dirty oil sits in the engine long term. I don't put enough hours on my tractor either, but the oil and filter get changed annually. While I'm at it I change the fuel filter too; like you say, the injection system can be very expensive to repair. I think you are spot on regarding the air filter (I check mine regularly and blow it out as needed) and hydraulic system - there is no combustion going on in the hydraulic system so it won't get contaminated, I change the hydraulic filter at the recommended hours regardless of how long it's been. Thanks for the great videos Mike!
I agree with you I put about 150 ish hrs a year on my koiti I change the oil every year and fuel filter at same time the interval is 200 hrs but my dad has a 1720 ford he changes the oil and fuel filter no matter how many hrs he puts on it once a year we did wait on the hydro filter and fluid but it only had 600 hrs on oil and we all know what 3 buckets of tractor hydro oil goes for
Hi Mike, I have 2 tractors, one is 50 years old, the other is 20. I change the oil on both twice a year (spring and fall) I run full synthetic in both. Neither tractor would see more than about 100 hours a year, so I don't pay much attention to the hour meter for oil changes. Hydraulic filters are once a year, but the fluid usually doesn't get changed. Air filters are checked and changed often (mostly outers). Grease is applied more often than is needed. About 6 months ago I had the engine on my little tractor rebuilt, (after only owning it for 3 months) oil is cheaper than rebuilds. The engine failure was caused by bad injectors. But I don't want to do it again ( I plan on replacing the injectors at 500 hour intervals. $600 every 4-5 years seems like cheap insurance)
I am with you Mike. I only use synthetic fluids. If the hours are not up to or close to what is listed in the manual I don't do it. That goes for all my equipment like boat, ATV, snowmobile, splitter etc. I have never had a failure in over 50 years now with them. Just changed my husky saw filter after 30 years. It was still like new. Now I only use premium fuel and synthetic mix in it all so. I do keep check on the colour of all the fluids. Smell is also a good indicator.
Good idea to keep an eye on ( sample out ) the front axle fluid if your tractor is outside even if it's tarped . If you dont't run up enough hrs to need an oil change once a year . Get on that darn thing and use it, lol
One thing to keep in mind regarding engine oil changes in newer vs old tractors: most newer diesel engines have EGR/ regen cycles/ etc, so the oil fouls and tends to get acidic quicker, especially in high moisture areas. Better to change out the engine oil at least twice a year to be safe. The relatively low cost is well worth the piece of mind.
Waste not want not was how i was raised also.You are spot on all You said.i will add as You said fuel filters are a big deal.use high quality oil and recommended filters.use the recommended viscosity in the book.warranty over rides how i always did it.newer engine tolerances have changed and some injection diesel and gas systems have change and plungers are lubed by oil also.newer 0w oils must be used to lube at startup and cold weather.tolerances are down to .001 and 10w-or 15w-or 30w don't cut it any more.i don't like it but can't handle a blown engine or injection system.it's not in the budget..if i have to run something i will run it long enough to reach operating temp to keep moisture out of the system.
My father was the industrial lubricating marketing engineer for a large oil company. He recommended changing oil at lease once a year as the additives would break down and be no longer effective. The heat of a running engine would start the breakdown process.
I put about 25 hrs a year. i change oil every 2 yrs didn't know about fuel filter i will be changing that every yr thanks for that info.
I agree with you Mike 100%.
Basically on the same page as you Mike... The air and fuel filters are on top of the list. Engine oil and filter at least once a year. Something you didn't mention was "greasing"... I still hold strong with greasing the entire tractor and attachment every fuel fillup, even if it's just two pumps......IMO Good video and make a video of changing the oil in your Dad's tractor.
Sounds like some good common sense. Thanks!
Mike I love the fact that you said I wish people that knew more would comment I can't know more possibly about this than what I do the best way for me to comment is to say if you had one year on it you're not sure if your oil is good enough you can always run an oil sample I wouldn't suggest doing this on a small little tractor but this is what we do on large heavy equipment when it would cost thousands of dollars for us to just simply change the oil we sample and test oil technically before we actually change it in industrial motors such as freight trains and commercial ships so running oil samples might be a little more costly than it's worth for your small tractor though sir but it all it all is relative and depends
Like they say " opinions are like a%%%%%%s everyone has one" I value yours Mike! Thanks for taking the time to help us out!🇺🇦✌🏻☮
"at out estate sales." Yep. You got that correct!!!!!
I have this same dilemma Mike myself , Have a brand new RK25 and already had the 50 hour service done all oils and fiters changed , The RK manual says the next oil change is 300 hours i have 245 more to go , Guess i will change it every other year its synthetic oil anyway , Good video and subd !
Mike,I’m with you
How about a demo for changing the fuel filter. Thanks for this video.
Mike I agree with you 100 percent
My background is as a heavy equipment mechanic where hydrostatic systems are common. Some of the equipment I have worked on used hydrstats extensively as in concrete mixers, excavators and skid steers.
I used to keep a close watch on my '99 JD4400's hr meter. I barely look at it now, in fact, it quit working this fall. I'm planning on the 2nd hydraulic oil change in the spring. Right on schedule. Oil changes are done once a year but can go 2 years, depending on how the oil looks. I only put 50ish hours a year on this machine. I know you can't go by looks. Where I worked, we got free oil analysis from our oil vendor. My tests were never showing any abnormalities. The JD manual makes no mention about actual time, just engine hours.
When servicing a hydraulic system, cleanliness is paramount to not having issues. The tiniest speck of dirt can stop your system from working. This can happen immediately upon startup after a oil change. I don't recommend monkeying around with these transmissions, you could just introduce that tiny speck of dirt. There is nothing worse when replacing a line out in a field on a concrete mixer with 10 yards of concrete on it than nothing happens when something is supposed to. Tiny little speck.
Feeding the tractor’s engine clean fuel and air along with not overheating it are most important. Whenever I store a vehicle for a while I try to fill the fuel tank right up to the cap so water is less likely to condense in the tank.
I kept an airplane full of fuel for 15 years-no condensate in the fuel and it was checked every time it flew.Tractor should be no different.
Hello Mike I'd blow out the air filter and when she gets dirty change it. The fuel filters need changed at least once a year with the junk fuel that we have and the oil I'd change at the time it say to change along with the hydraulic filter. That oil I'd change not for a long time as your dad did lol.Have a great day.
I'm not super rigid, but I go more by the hours that I put on my machines. At a minimum I do an oil change at least annually. I also do a "pre-use inspection" prior to any use. I check oil levels/condition, look at filters, tire pressures etc. before I use my machines.
Well Mike I’m guilty of over maintaining my equipment. I have a 40HP Kubota and won’t get 100 hours per year but change it anyway with Rotella synthetic oil and Kubota filters. I change the hydraulic system oil and filters closer to recommended interval but still early using the proprietary Kubota Super UDT2 oil. My Kubota diesel zero turn and side by side are treated the same way. My reasoning is it won’t hurt it and for what they cost to replace, oil and filters and maintenance is cheap. IMHO
Great video as always
Mike, I change the engine oil and filter every spring. I blow out the air filter and if it's still dirty I change them but they are gosh darn expensive. I just keep an eye on the hydraulic oil. I'd change the filter more regularly but the book says if I take the filter off there will be 5 gallons of oil on the ground so it doesn't get done. Fuel filters get checked regularly and changed every couple of years. There's no science here just me and my attitudes. Cheers.
There is a UA-cam Channel titled Project Farm this exact question was the premise of the episode. The presenter did testing on the engine oil in his Ram diesel truck and his Ford tractor which were not at the mileage/operating hours oil change interval. In this particular video he did some of his own testing and sent samples off to a lab for a complete oil analysis. Conclusion he reached is that oil does not need to be changed until the manufacturer's stated interval for operating hours, it's not necessary to change it based on the calendar. If you use your tractor and put a load on it, the engine oil temp will be above the boiling point of water driving all the moisture out. The real reason for changing diesel engine oil is it is contamined with soot, the additives are consumed, the viscosity has been reduced and the oil becomes acidic, so change at the manufacturer's recommended interval. That said, my latest tractor has an oil change interval of 600 hours, every other tractor I have owned has been 300 hours, so I do change the oil on that tractor at 300 hours.
Change the engine oil and filter and fuel filter yearly and check the air filter and blow out/change as needed.I am an ag tech for newholland .Thats what i recomend and what i do with my equipment ,if the service intervals are not met yearly .You can go longer on the hyd. syst. every 2/3 years.And change/flush the cooling system every 4/5 years.
I change my fuel filters 2 times a year or more depends on the humidity here in northwest Florida. Oil and filter once a year. Air filter once a year. I own a Kubota L4701DT with 100 hours on it.
I own and operate a Farmall 75C (I am retired and down sized). I stick to the manufactures schedule regardless on all of my mechanical devices. I run a synthetic 0W-40 engine oil in very cold climate. The tractors main function is snow removal and it is my life line out of a half mile long drive way in the woods. It is a miserable tractor to change the engine oil and fuel filters on, however the change interval on the engine oil for the synthetic oil is 600 hours dependent on certain conditions. I also believe in oil analysis. I come from the aviation filed and oil analysis is used extensively. I had a IH 4386 many years ago and coolant was discovered in the engine oil by oil analysis, and it was a bad "O" ring around one of the sleeves, which was leaking do to electrolysis on the sleeve in the coolant system (that was a big problem with the DT466 engine). It had some kind of water treatment chemical dispenser on the coolant system to prevent that vary thing, which had inadvertently been turned of on one of the services. The oil analysis saved me a lot of money as the fix was fast and not overly costly. Not like buying a new short block. And of course, they never brake during the off season. Servicing these tractors is getting to be a big $ proposition but then again it is a big $ investment. I also believe in using the manufactures filters and not after market. There is a difference. Just take a look at a Cat filter vs after market and you will see the difference. Thanks for the video I truly enjoy them.
I noticed during the winter months, the temperature gauge on my tractor does not read as high as the other months of the year. All internal combustion engines will condensate inside because of the temperature swing between cold and operating temp then back down again. Look at the bottom of the oil fill cap. If there are moisture droplets and or a milky substance, you have water in your engine. Check your truck/car too. Short trip driving will really amplify the condensation process because the engine needs to get to normal operating temp and stay there long enough to expel the moisture out of the engine. A lower operating temperature (such as may be the case for some tractors during cold weather), can be like short trip driving and can produce higher condensation in the engine. Changing the oil in the spring is one of the best times to do it regardless of hours. This will certainly help remove any water in the bottom of the oil pan.
I will say this, I have serviced a fordson three point hitch where the oil was milky. This is in the north, where cold reaches the negative temps for a few months a year. And from what I can see, it's from condensation caused by the tractor standing out in freezing temps, them maybe getting used once per winter.
With all things in the north, condensation is a killer. So my suggestion is to do your service in the fall, just before the cold hits. This way you have maximum oil in every compartment.
I follow the factory recommendations for maintenance. I put enough hours on the tractor that I don’t worry about the year and use hours. I do all my basic service and maintenance.
Regarding X360 lawn tractor - engine oil and filter every year regardless of hours ( i usual put 45 hours on it ) and transmission is every 400Hrs which is every 4 years . our JD 2130 is a different story , we may put 15 hours each years and last service interval was at least 12 years an that was pushing it .
I agree with, they are guidelines. If your equipment is under a shed, out of the rain, I think the extra time would not hurt. If it sits outside, I would rethink the passage of time.
Hi Mike, Great topic. I recently acquired 2008 Cub Cadet 8454 with less than 300 hrs. I changed most of the fluids mainly to get acquainted with the machine. At least, I know where I’m at. I agree and do think origin, location, and weather is a factor for maintaining fuel systems especially. Is the tractor stored in winter with full tank and stabilizer? Some of theses tractors were stored outside. If been told of old tractors getting water in the differential. Your thoughts on evaluating hydraulic hoses and tires would be appreciated. Also, how about cooling systems?Finally, the age of the tractor is a factor. As you stated, the new tractors are more sensitive, built to closer tolerances, more expensive to repair, and warrant close maintenance.
I have replaced both hydraulic filters and fuel filter 2 times. Oil I change once a year. I live between buffalo and Lebanon
I put about 30 hrs a year on my old 8n , I change the oil every two years and the trans oil every 5 years but its aways been kept inside and well taken care of.
thx for the vid..if you have a diesel motor in particular its not so much the oil degrading with low hours it more the Sulphur and other corrossive particulants that accumulate in diesel oils and when left sitting in a motor for extended periods of time it will break down the oil additives and become corrosive which can effect the fine metal surfaces at a molicular level.i.e crank, bearing surfaces etc.. you dont need to be paranoid about changing exactly at 12months but you wouldnt want to leave it in for 24months either
Just like a car there is a mileage/hours and a duration time change interval. Limited use puts as much or more contaminants in the oil and leaving it in leads to corrosive conditions. I do indeed change the oil and filter at the time intervals even if I don't hit the hours condition.
I normally change the oil and filter and air filter every year regardless of the hours . 5 qts of oil and a couple of filters really isn't all that expensive . I have never had an issue with the fuel ( haven't changed the fuel filter in 3 years ) , but I am changing it as soon as the filter comes in on Monday. I think I have less than 40 hours on my Massey 1735M .
I Don’t rack up tons of hours with mine about 100 hours a year. My maintenance is oil change every spring. Fuel filters when i put the plow and snow blower on in the fall. Hydraulic is done by the hours and air is done as needed.
I bought a reposed pickup with 80,000 and the Original oil and filter, it was A great vehicle maybe because of the 300 in-line six.
For compact/small tractors;
about 1 year or the hour interval for the engine oil and fuel filter if its not a tier4 with "extended life" fuel filters. (most tier4 Massey compacts today are about 300hrs for fuel filters in the book)
hydraulics 300hrs or 5 years front axle with this interval as well.
air as needed
grease and check all fluids regularly!!!
an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and way less potential for unplanned expense and downtime when you practice regular PM
.02
Had a 274 Massey oil change once a year same thing with hydraulic oil. If it’s a outside tractor. Keep an eye on the shift lever boots
Hey Mike! Love your Channel. I have a 2021 2025R Deere. I currently put about 15 hours a year on it. I am concerned about the diesel fuel going bad between uses; maybe sitting for six months. What do you think about using synthetic diesel? It is way more expensive, but when you only use 10 gallons a year, it's negligible compared to the complications and cost of a bad diesel repair. Also, do you have any experience with synthetic diesel? Supposedly, synthetic diesel can be stored for 10 years or longer without going bad. Thanks.
Well I have never made a comment before I do listen to you and I have learned a lot my father was like your father during the depression and everything I would say if it smells or the color is different or the way it feels between your fingers I don't change mine at the intervals it requires because I do not put a lot of hours on it either and I'm in Michigan I should change the fuel filter because it's been a couple of years and I do have a new fuel filter when my tractor was new I did change it the first 50 hours I believe it was that they call for so I did do that but right now I would go by smell color or the way it feels between my fingers when it comes to the hydraulic fluid
If it’s a diesel you should change your fuel filters at least on the change intervals or every 6 months because the diesel fuel grows algae and the fuel we get now has very little shelf life. Also run a good fuel conditioner
I use my tractor enough that I can actually stick to the recommended intervals in the user manual. I'm always checking the fuel bowl and making sure the air filter is cleaned out if I mow a field. Every hour I clean it out with a leaf blower. With todays technology in synthetics is is no worry to change engine oil every two years if you don't run it enough. But all depends on your environmental parameters. If tractor is outside all the time with no cover, I would probably change fluids/filters more often than not.
I keep a check on the levels but i dont change my fluids until the hr meter tells me its time. You can send samples to be tested if you are worried but i dont think oil in a sealed container or system will go bad. I have never seen an expiration date on container of oil. With that said, i have never heard of anyone hurting an engine from changing the fluids to often. If you have the funds to do it, do it, your not going to hurt anything. That just my .02
I’m also bad about greasing my tractor but fluids I have been going by the hours as I also don’t hit my hours yearly.
I am a fanatic about maintenance. I will be changing engine oil/filter and hydraulic oils/filters on or before the prescribed intervals or annually regardless of cost. In addition, I will document all maintenance. Afterall, I spent a lot of money on the tractor and warranty or not.....these items will get my attention.
I believe there is an issue that needs to be addressed prior to offering an opinion on this maintenance question.
This issue is related to storage of the equipment and conditions the equipment is used in.
A few possible issues-stored where rain/snow/ice exposure happens. This indicates a different approach to maintenance than one kept in a protected environment (in my opinion a lean-too/open pole structure is exposed). This is probably more toward hydro fluids/filters and front diffs than engines although does apply to engines to a lesser extent.
A second condition is the environment of use! Is the piece of equipment used in a manner where it us always in dusty area? Or in water frequently? Such conditions greatly affect the response to how often to perform maintenance. If water exposure is common, maintenance may be needed at a more frequent interval than mfg recommended.
I`ve had my Ford 640 for a year and a half and I have around 75 hours on it, and I plan on changing the oil at 100 hours like the manual says, and in my opinion I would only vary from that if it took me a third year and I hadn`t reach the hours yet I would change the oil simply because of three years with the same oil getting hot and cold and doing a lot of sitting in my mind it would just be a good idea to do so.
Wow I didn’t see that coming. I picked out my first tractor. It’s not even on my property and I bought all new fluids for it. With the exception of antifreeze. I like the purple lubricant products. I will use them for all my oil and lubrication needs except hydraulic fluid. They only sell it in 55 gallon drums now. For that I’ll be using Amsoil. After reading the comments here I am surly an outlier. I FEEL better knowing there is a higher quality fluid pumping through all the systems. And just as important knowing they will be there protecting them when they are not in use. I bought my tractor with a backhoe and know it will sit unused for many months. I know The Amsoil product will keep seals and pistons in better shape than an oil based product. I’ve asked both AMSOIL and Royal Purple to do a video talking about the topic of tractors and fluids. If they get back to me I’ll let you know.
In the mean time please change that 11 year old oil. Your tractor loves you. Love it back.
The oil system isn't really a closed system, per se. If there's a crankcase breather somewhere (and there is, because you don't want pressure building up in the crankcase), there's a path for moisture laden air to enter when the engine cools down. This leads to the oil becoming acidic, which is damaging. I'm a big believer in oil analysis from companies like Blackstone. It's cheaper than an oil change, and it provides additional insight into you engine. The analysis can reveal things like premature bearing failure, cylinder blow-by, all sorts of stuff. In a humid area I'd be more inclined to change the oil than in an arridd, non-dusty location.
I go by the oils condition... Around me with winter and summer, eventually oil will get foamy or milky if its towards the end of its life If it doesn't get dark. Engine oil and Fuel filters get done every spring unless it needs it sooner. With that said, I average 100 hours a year on my tractors.
I don't put many hours per year on my 1025 I grease regular intervals but I only change all my fluids and filters(oil, hydro fluid and anti freeze) once a year regardless if my hours
Absolutely get video. My Question bought my ltt'l jd 2210 in 04 new. Now in 22 ,700hrs later been noticed every 6hrs by clock time its using 2oz oil. Could this be because of condensation in my oil cause of lack of use ???
I have the same pc40 tractor hydrostatic transmission you got I never change my fluid I got a 2003 model hydraulic fluid really breakdown
Light use machines i do engine oil filters once a year then on hydraulics if it was an easy filter to change i just change out hydraulic filters and add fresh oil if needed. Cummins filtration told me shelf life of filters was one year so if they are sitting on the shelf use them up. Air and fuel i change them as needed . On my oldest tractors with oil bath filters need to be changed often if in wet or dusty conditions. I found with the emissions diesels oil does stay looking better longer and some industry publications have stated that cleaner running engines can run longer on oil and filters since our oils have improved.
My equipment gets low to moderate use and gets the oil changed once a year with Mobil 1 being used in everything I own from push mowers to diesel tractors since it came out in the 70's with no problems.Just got tired off having so many different brands and wts of oil so everything gets 10w-40 whether it likes it or not.
I have a 2012 model at a rate of about 50 hrs a year and mine gets oil change every spring before the season starts. Like doing my maintenance in February or March when ground is sloppy in Northern MO anyway. My tractors before this one were ancient so I didnt change every year... by that point I dont think it matters much.
I change my fuel filter the most, seems to need it more often than recommended. Other stuff per schedule.
less hours is like short drives in the city - it is generally worse on the equipment. cars also say if you do short drives halve the time between oil changes it should be the same for your tractor.
Check the grease/oil/lube it will have a shelf life on it assume that is a maximum from the manufacture date stamped on it.
also people the minimum annual oil change hours is about/roughly/around equal to the break even point for hiring someone to do it and you would likely be better off with a zero turn and a rental unless you are hitting those hours every year - in which case it wears out/breaks ugh. If you have something bigger they have a minimum run time for the emissions to work - make sure you know it and hit it.
That was a fantastic question. I bought a 2015 kubota L3301 4x4 in 2021. After the guy owning the tractor for 6 years, it only had like 93-94 hours on it. Now it has 169 hours on it and the oil change intial is at 400 hr. It will take me about 2 more years before I get to 400 hrs. What's your opinion on what to do? Please advise.
As my old driving instructor said “3 lashes with a wet noodle for not taking care of your vehicles” (tractors included, lol).
My newer 75 hp Case utility tractor has a 600 hour oil replacement interval that takes me about 3 years to reach. If I changed all filters, and fluids each year because of concern over additive degradation that would amount to over $600 just for materials every year. That’s a lot of cash for a little more piece of mind. If I recall correctly, there are 6 different filters. I go by hours except for oil which gets drained and replaced each year without replacing the filter. I leave the oil filter on until the 600 hour interval as it cannot be removed without removing two fuel filters which run about $100 each and I am not going to remove those without replacing them with new filters because of concern over contamination from fiddling with them in tight quarters. So the two fuel filters and oil filter all get changed at 600 hours. The main hydraulic filter goes 300 hours so every year or two it gets changed. I am no expert here, but I can sleep at night as well as have a little extra money in the wallet.
I follow my service manual. It says 100 hours on engine oil or annually which ever comes first. Just my two cents is that oil and filters and grease are cheap I don’t want to have to replace the full cost of the tractor.