Should I Use Manufacturer's Oils and Filters?
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Got a question from Jeff, my neighbor. He's getting ready to change hydraulic oil in his Ford 1920 tractor and he wanted to know how important it is to use manufacturer's oils and filters when doing that task. They are considerably more expensive than what you get at a farm store like Tractor Supply, Rural King, or Farm and Home.
While I've never tested the different oils that manufacturers offer, I respect the wisdom that my father had on this matter. He was very conservative with his money, but he always owned good equipment and used the original equipment manufacturer's oils and filters on every tractor he owned. I'm the same way.
In Jeff's case, he's going to spend about $100 more to buy the factory oil for his 1920. There's a lot of oil in a hydraulic system. While $100 is a lot of money, it's nowhere near the amount you'd spend if you had a hydraulic system failure. So I feel, it's best to know that you have the oil the people that made the tractor recommend. It won't guarantee you'll never have a breakdown, but you might sleep better.
One of these days I'll locate a lab that can analyze the different oils and we'll see who has the best product. My gut tells me there won't be much difference in each of the manufacturer's engine or hydraulic oils, but it would be interesting to see if there really are additives in some of them that justify the higher prices. In the meantime I'll follow the lead of my father and put the OEM stuff in and not worry about it.
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Sounds like a collaboration with Project Farm and Blackstone Labs for the analysis should be in the works.
I am 54 years old, been running and servicing tractors as long as I can remember, since I grew up farming, and have never paid the over price dealers want for their fluids and filters, but just bought good quality filters and fluids that met specs and have never had a major failure on tractor engine or hydraulic system!
As long as the oil meets the spec it's good to go. It has to meet the spec. While under warranty I use my manufacturers oil. On my used equipment I use universal oil that meets the spec. I am 62 years old. My father (an Allis Chalmers salesman for 25 years) and grandfather used universal oil and Rotella in our diesels. Never had a failure.
Exactly
I've used John Deere products in a Massey Ferguson because I owned both brands and there was no MF dealer anywhere close to me. That simplified buying and keeping extra should I need it. I agree with other comments that as long as it meets specs it is OK.
I wonder if those old machines had the complicated additives that fluids today have added. I really don’t know. When I was about 16 my mother (rest her soul) got me an old crank start 1930 Oliver tractor. I played around in that thing for about three years before I broke it. I don’t member getting Oliver fluids just regular old fluids. But again I was 16 and really didn’t pay attention.
Meeting the spec works for engine oil which has industry standards, but it's much more difficult (nearly impossible) for hydraulic oil / UDT. I say that because I researched 8 different brands and the numbers (viscosity, density, brookfield, gravity, etc.) were a bit different between them all. Sure, you could just look on the label and see if it "meets", for example, MF1145 for AGCO. but oils like Providence and Traveller don't publish actual oil characteristics. Only brands like Amsoil, Rotella, Kubota, and Delvac have details specs out there and again they all vary some. The cheaper brands claim compatibility on their label which is likely written by the marketing department. To me, that's like Walmart green beans claiming to be green beans. They are, but they are also tough and filled with stems.
Mike I completely respect your views on this and the reason for those views. Personally, as long as I can get a good, reputable oil, filter, etc that meet all the specs, I will use it if I can pay less. Not saying it is right, wrong or better or worse, but in my 60 plus years it has served me well. The real key is doing the service and changes on a regular basis. I believe that regular servicing of the vehicle is ten times more important that brand names. Just my two cents...................
The Project Farm guy and Mike live very 'near' each other. Would be a good collab.
Interesting I didn’t know that
Yes! That would be cool.
What you have to realize is that none of the tractor manufacturers make their own oil products. They Contract with oil companies to make the products for them. They are manufactured to tractor companies specifications. I work for Valvoline and we have manufactured oil products for Kubota for years. It has been a great relationship for both companies. If you have concerns, all oil companies have a technical support phone number on the back of the container. They will help you to make sure you are using the right fluids.
That’s awesome that you work for Valvoline. My wife is the retired lead chemist for BASF in Cincy. And what you’re saying is true the labs will actually answer your question particularly in the evenings if you can get through to them. The third shift chemists are always looking for something innovative and fun to do.
Dd
I worked for a small oil company back in the 90's and agree with Richard Poe on this matter. That being said getting the OEM from the dealer is still a safe bet. (though I myself may not go that route)
@@vfries2 would you be kind enough to explain why? is it price, quality or something else?
Great point. Thank you
The UA-cam channel Project Farm tests all kinds of products, he looks for ideas and might be interested in analyzing and testing OEM vs off the shelf for farm equipment.
You would not be able to fully test hydraulic oils, as the additives address specific system performances that are particular to that OEMs equipment.
Project Farm tested oils both brand name and house brands.
@@christopherbrosz5003 a qualitative analysis could indicate the ingredient differences between the products.
Mike , I do use factory fluids and filters just to be safe. I am tight just like your father but have never scrimped when it comes to maintenance. Thanks for all the vids I love learning.
Peace of mind is a state of mind
Hi Mike. I’m 63 years old and grew up on a farm. We did not use oil from the manufacturer but our oil/hydraulic fluid met the specifications of the tractor we were using. And we had no problems whatsoever. So I believe as long as you use what’s required, you will be just fine. I have peace of mind doing this and have no problem telling you or anyone else to go that route. I enjoy your channel and look forward to your next video & you have a great day.
Mike, I've had several Ford and Kubota tractors over 40 years and if you read the science, tractor manufacturers do not make filters or fluids, but add "fluff" materials to justify it. If you listen to the lubrication engineers, chemists and heavily experienced owners, you will hear that while there are differences in additives and processes, there are federal and/or industry standards that must be met, therefore I strongly believe you are in error on this one. That said, you are an ace on many, many topics so keep up the good work, just jump off the "manufacturer market guy" stump, unless you simply want to spend the extra money to feel good about yourself! Great job on your channel. May I also respectfully request that you do a video on how often to grease zerks, change oil, (synthetic diesel oil) and hydraulic fluids. Manuals say every 300 hours, but for many of us, that could take a few years! Thanks for listening.
I went with the dealer oils and filters. I am sure there are different brands of oils that would work, but the savings difference was just not enough. I will sleep better Mike! Thanks, I had a good chuckle watching this.
Mike you have some really good content and catchy titles.
This is the very thing I have been thinking about lately as I just went past 50 hours and needed to do the filter changes on my Kioti tractor.
I’ve worked for an oil distributor in a major market (sales) and worked in auto repair (college); 1) don’t use just any filter and oil. 2) find out who makes the products, and buy them. Wix makes many of the filters, and each oil company makes someone’s oil. The API grade and ratings are key. Flow rates and micron levels on filters are key. Also the construction of a filter makes a difference. Quality is key.
As a retired diesel mechanic and part time farmer I have been using Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac 15W 40 in everything I own since the late 70s and that included a push mower with a 3 1/2 hp Briggs and Stratton which lasted 24 years. And Mike NAPA sell a oil analysis kit that is I believe is postage paid and you will get a report on the oil you drained. Oh yes NAPA GOLD FILTERS are one of the highest rated on the market. Shell and Mobile both make hydraulic oils
Oh on my farm I had three diesel and one gas tractors.
I used both. Old tractor used cheap oil/filters, but Oem on my new lol. Neil Messick put out a good video on this subject and explained the differences why you want to spend a few extra dollars.
I have an 11 year old JD 4520 with just over 2200 hours. For the cost difference and piece of mind I have always used OEM oils and filters. This is my fifth tractor and I've never had a failure. Always enjoy your videos.
Great topic Mike. I stick to the manufacturer’s fluids and filters. It’s been my experience that tractor companies (or the dealers themselves) will run specials on fluids/filters/maintenance parts at least once a year - it’s usually 15-20% off and at that point the price difference isn’t worth me straying from OEM stuff.
Well, my vehicles under warranty get dealer serviced, so factory oil & filters. I buy the maintenance plan with the vehicle and call it good. My tractor I maintain myself with factory filters and the fluids my dealer uses, in this case Rotella T6 in the engine and Can Am hydraulic fluid in the transmission & hydraulics. I keep all my receipts in case there’s a problem, but none so far. My out of warranty vehicles get Valvoline or Ford semi-syn oil and Fram filters and both have over 200k miles with zero problems. And just to throw it out there I’ve been using Valvoline conventional and semi-syn Max Life (when it came out) and Fram filters since the mid 1970’s and have never had a single oil or filter related problem in dozens of vehicles across hundreds of thousands of miles. And I’ve never missed a single night’s sleep, either. Great video Mike, keep up the fantastic work. 👍
Exactly.
The main thing is that you simply change the fluids and filters and DO NOT neglect. All will be just fine.
I have and will always use the OEM oils and filters. I have watched several filter cut away comparisons, they exposed how cheap some of the major brands are, rust inside new filters, low filter media count, cheap bypass values etc. Kubota filters internal parts are superior to many of the brands sold at our local auto parts stores.
When I was in the mining industry we used Baldwin filters and Delo 400 engine oils. Unless the manufacturer (CAT, Volvo, Komatsu) had a special type of hydro or transmission fluid we used manufacturer but if not we used Chevron equivalent that met the manufacturer spec. These machines were run hard but never abused and serviced religiously. They ran for thousands of hours and rarely had issues related to oils or filters.
I have a Kubota M6060 in my research Kubota filters are premium. So I go with Kubota filters and Kubota UDT2 transmission/hydro oil. But use Delo 400 or Shell Rotella in the engine. Just my experience and opinion.
My neighbor said that the additives in the fluids were the key to going with the manufacture’s fluids. He was an absolute encyclopedia of great information since he spent most of his life in manufacture’s establishments all over the world. Last time I was at his place, he pulled out Mercedes diesel fuel injectors that Robert Bosch gave to him at Bosch’s plant!!! We both have had several Older Mercedes diesels with hundreds of thousands of miles on them and the grill badges to prove it. Our Mercedes dealership shop Forman had 37 years of working at the dealership and was a whiz as to why/what they did work like they did.
While under warranty, I always buy from the dealership. It just makes everything easier if there’s an issue, plus, you bought from the dealer and they’ll remember you.
50 hour service I used factory filters and what little hydraulic oil I needed. Only changed engine oil and all filters. 200 hours I changed all my oils and filters. She’ll Rotella t4 oil, Mobil 424 hydraulic oil, and WIX filters all around. Went to 80-90 weight in front axle. Kioti ck 2610hst.
I use the factory fluids and filters while it's under warranty to head off any 'disagreements' with the manufacturer if something goes wrong. Once it's out of warranty I just use whatever decent quality stuff is on sale.
Mike,
Yes, I use Kubota filters and all fluids. My thought is that why own a $35,000 tractor and try to save $100 on cheaper oil and filters. If I can’t afford to maintain it, maybe I should not have bought it. Just my 2 cents.
I have two tractors from the same company and have used their brand of oil even though it cost me more. I have never had a failure in my equipment and feel good about the lubricants put into my machines large and small.
OEM during the warranty period, to mfg's spec after. I have the unusual perspective of having a friend who manufactures filters for obsolete JD equipment. Just him and his son, part time. Another poster said it best: All of these manufacturers contract and private label their fluids, filters and everything else. You might not be able to get an engine from the original supplier, but you most certainly get oil, hydraulic fluid and filters from them, and a lot of other folks too!
I use OEM fluids and filters. Saving $100 or less and risking issues with a $25,000 machine is not a good risk vs benefit for me. I service my machine, but buy my supplies from my dealer because I want them nearby and in business for the things I can’t service or repair.
LOL, this has to be my favorite Tractor Mike video so far. The internet rant just cracked me up! I'm in Oklahoma, so Suddenlink exists around here, but not in the rural areas, so I actually use a local internet provide that uses a line of sight microwave system. As far as fluids, it sort of depends for me. For my JD tractor, I purchase JD oil and filters, namely because the operator's manual says I can double my change interval by using JD brand fluid. I also use JD hydraulic oil since it is so expensive and a major fluid circuit in the machine. For my Massey, I will actually use Valvoline Premium Blue and either AGCO filters or Cummins Fleetguard filters on the engine. I figure if it's good enough for a Cummins engine, then it is good enough for a Perkins/Cat engine. I do use the AGCO hydraulic fluid in the tractor for the same reason as the JD, it is a critical fluid circuit for the machine. And for my Kubota, I use Kubota filters and fluids. For my trucks, I always use Ford oil and filters in my Ford truck, but the Dodge gets some leeway. I always use Cummins Fleetguard filters, but for oil it'll either get Shell Rotella or the Valvoline Premium Blue.
Hey Mike. Good question. I always change my own fluids. I own a Massy Ferguson so i go to the dealer and buy their fluids and filters. My tractor is three years old and still under warranty. I keep all receipts and keep accurate records of all work done on tractor. In my case using dealer fluids and filters is best. Oil and oil filters are very reasonably priced. Hydraulic fluid cost is much higher but worth the piece of mind. Enjoy your channel. You helped me get through my first year of tractor ownership. Still learning. Thanks to you.
I have been watching your channel over 2 years and finally bought a new Kioti CX2510, im so happy. Put 5.2 hours on it bushhogging today.
I was successful, Thankfully to you..
Tom, glad to hear, enjoy the new machine!
Yes I have a story. I purchased a 2590 Case new. I modified it somewhat after warrenty. Added duals, ballist, pyrometer, water filter, lengthed wheel base etc. I made a super tractor!
About 1700 hours a weak bearing in the transmission let go. I had Case dealer take to shop and requested when opened up to call, I wanted to observe problem. They did as my request.
super nice mechanic explained that I had requested more than tractor designed. I understood. he said to me that I deserved an education. Parked beside mine was a 2390 that had been opened for another problem. Similiar tractors and age and hours close.
He said you know what oil you are using and change frequency. Grab a white shop towel and rub inside the housing on both tractors. Your thoughts. mine was black with soot and the other was clean. Then stated he didn't blame the wrong fluid but my own ideas. I do know the aftermarket oil after some time caused JD brakes to chatter. My oil was a Standard Oil brand.
What if we ask "Project Farm" to perform some hydraulic oil tests?
Mike, I tend to agree with you but an experience this weekend has me questioning. I went to another AGCO dealer (not my regular dealer)for supplies just because I was in the area. Turns out, they don't even sell Permatran except in 1 qt bottles. Totally worthless. Try tried to sell me on some alternate UDT brand. They also pulled a fast one on me and gave me the old GC2xxx oil filter which physically fits a GC1723 but isn't up to filtering capacity vs the newer Iseki filters as required for the GC17xx series. I even handed them a piece of paper with a request for exact AGCO Iseki part numbers. So here we are. Who can we trust anymore for any reliable and consistent service. Seems to be a problem across the board in this world. It use to be that you could pay a little more for the best. Now it seems you can pay a little more and maybe feel better but not necessarily get a better product for your money.
Something like this would take good looking each of the SAE specs. And making a good choice. While under factory warranty it is wise to have the selling dealer do a good spring service.
Make sure they oil you buy meets the manufactures specifications, if your under a warranty it is wise to have the dealer do it only, if no warranty make what you purchase a oil that meets all the specs required by the manufacture. I run delo 400 in all my tractors for engine oil, filters I do get from the the dealer, hydrualic fluid, good hydrualic fluid is expensive period, some are less expensive then other but if you have a powershift or hydro stat transmission make sure the fluid you get meets all the requirements, NAPA is a good source for the correct type of fluid required for tractors but they are not much cheaper than the dealer for the one that says kubota on the bucket
I see everyone has already suggested Project Farm, but a good idea. I personally use a good name brand filter and good aftermarket oils / fluids. Most of which are made by the same exact manufacturers and just rebranded. Keep on top of your maintenance hours and no problems.
Mike, I have an old 1949 AC WD and a 2018 Massey Ferguson. I am retired. No more farming here. I just brush hog, move dirt and gravel and dig stumps or haul firewood. When I hit my 50 hour on the MF, I did go back to the dealer for fluids and filters. But since then I have been going to carquest for filters and Tractor Supply for fluids. My dealer told me I would not be invalidating any warranty or harming the equipment. In fact, they gave me the part numbers for the filters and fluids at each place. They told me the after market brands, if they are the correct part numbers, meet the requirements of the manufacturer. In some cases they said some of the filters are even better. On a side not, my MF experienced a hydraulic fluid leak at the joystick splitter valve. It was caused by failure of the o-rings which is usually the case. I went back to my dealer 3 times to buy the o-rings because after all it is under warranty until this December. Well the 3 replacement set failed back in June after only a month. This time, I took the fourth set of o-rings which were never used to my local hardware store and bought the same size and installed them. So far, no leaks or blow outs. The o-rings from my local hardware store were 25% of the cost of the dealer o-rings. My local hardware store is 8 miles away, the dealer is 32 miles. The autoparts store is 8 miles and TSC is 20 miles. Just because your retired doesn't mean ya have plenty of time to kill. I don't like going anywhere and if I can choose a 20 mile drive over 32, well I choose 20. Not to mention my truck only gets about 15mpg and we all see what the price of fuel is these days. I am in NE Kansas.
I have used both on my Kubota's I've had over the years. Never had any problems. I would definitely use their oils and filters /parts etc while under warranty. With that said not a whole lot of difference in price from the ones I've have found. Shop around dealers also even online!!
While not a tractor, Im looking at my manuals for my new Z-turn mower. The manufacturer of the mower states the oil changes must be changed every 100 hours (following first 8 hour change). The engine manufacturer manual states similar except they give you 25 hours till first and then the typical 100 hour intervals. They engine manufacture also has a synthetic oil change kit with a higher grade filter and states if used, it changes the intervals to 300 hours. Ive asked the mower manufacturer and they stated they have their own oils and filters and that the 100 hour interval should be maintained or possibly lose warranty coverage but when asked if the engine failed, they stated that would be decided by the engine manufacturer. Sometimes even trying to follow the manual(s) can be as clear as mud... My tractor from the same manufacturer as my Z-turn is a rebranded Branson so Im sure I will have yet two different choices of fluids. Just different colored bottles and filter. Thanks for the videos
Mike, I have worked in the automotive and tractor industry for over45 years. I worked for a car manufacturer for 30 of those years and I believe in the factory recommended fluids and filters especially under warranty. I have always used name brand oils that meet the factory spec. I do find the most ecconomical place to buy them because I have always done my own fluid and filter changes and have never had a major failure. I also change the oil filter every time. As you have said on your channel you cannot emphasize chaging diesel fuel filter enough. I have never had a water issue, but I watch for a noticable change in the filter paper color (darker) and then I change it regardless of elapsed time.
Welp, you just convinced me to change the primary fuel filter on my 1025R. Checked it today and it's looking a little dark.
I used tractor supply hydraulic oil in my John Deere that met “John Deere specs” and it actually made the the brakes drag. I changed the oil to John Deere hygard and everything works fine now.
Thank you for talking about this. For me personally. In my 1978 (343 Detroit Diesel) the Local old timer,who has been working on the old Jimmy's ( two strokes) told me always Run Detroit Diesel Corporation two stroke (40 Wt.)
I use DELO 100 SEA 40. Meets original Warranty Requirements for ALL Diesel engines specifying SEA 40. On a side note this young very loud know it all Diesel Mac. Was in the parts Department. When I was asking about ( Detroit 92 series) Engine oil requirements. He had to jump into conversation. Loudly said all Detroit's you put in (15/40 Wt.) I have never had an issue with that old girl running straight (40Wt) in her.
I use OEM filters. But I use Rotella T6 engine oil and aftermarket hydraulic oil. The last two tractors I bought, even the dealer uses the aftermarket hydraulic oil.
i made a directional wifi antenna that could reach 4 houses away and use the open wifi that i had been given permission to use, but had been limited to lingering out in front of that house holding a laptop. in hindsight, i'd have saved many hours of tedious snipping and soldering, had i just bought a cheap antenna on amazon to serve the same purpose.
Hi Mike. I AM a litle farmer from argentina. I try to Buy the fluids and filters available bit price is important too.your idea on taking diferent brands to a lab test is brilliant.
I always use OEM. A learning experience for me was when I put Amsoil in my new Harley at it's first oil change. It developed what sounded like a valve tap. Took it to the dealer to be checked out. The owner of the dealership who is also a very experience service mechanic took it for a test ride, then ask me what oil I was using. Told him Amsoil. He told me I should be using Harley's Syn3. Change the oil back to Syn3 and the tap went away. Found out a guy I worked with had the same experience.
Great topic....and as you guessed, I'm certain you'll get many different opinions.
I did not grow up in a Farming family, so the "tractors" I used as a kid were compact riding tractors (Bolens). In that instance we of course used Quaker State, Mobil or any of the other reputable brands that had a high mileage rating.
When I bought our IH674 diesel a few years back, different story. I had it rebuilt at a Case/IH dealer a few hours from us (cavitation and a few other issues) and the advice they gave me, which I follow, is always use HyTran from Case. I ran into the same dilemma...as a "hobby Farmer", was not excited to have to pay over $80 for two, 5-gallon buckets of the stuff vs Tractor Supply which was substantially less. Read all the forums...some said "makes no difference", others said "you'll ruin the tractor...there's fillings in the oil", etc, etc, etc.
Long story short...I bit the bullet and by the authentic stuff. Plus as I've found out, that "sweet smell" long time IH Farmers referred to with HyTran...I'm now hooked ;-)
The oil meets specs and if the spec is the same the oil has to meet or exceed that.
The filters don't have the same specs... Even if they have the same maximum porosity, they may not have the same media surface area... One filter might have 1/4 the surface vs another. The lower surface filter will be running the oil through the relief valve, bypassing the filter media. Might as well have an empty cartridge at that point.
This is where you find the metal filings in the engine oil... After the damage is done.
Also, if the oil drain plug doesn't have a magnet, get a replacement with magnet.
You should always get just a little bit of metal fuzz on the magnet... But anything more is a problem.
I’m with you 100%, as a percent of the machines cost it’s minimal, but you want your machine to perform and last. It also allows you to cultivate a relationship with your dealer, that will pay you dividends in the future!
I believe in good maintenance, that said I have the same exact tractor as you do, and I use Wix filters ( fuel & oil), and I use Shell Rotella 15-40 oil. I haven’t changed the hydraulic filter or the oil yet but it only has 400 hours on it.
Thanks for the great videos.
I've got a John Deere 310d backhoe and i only use John Deere oil, hy-gard in the trans and hydraulic system and plus 50 in the engine, also use John Deere grease.
For filters I use Baldwin/car quest filters because there made in USA and most of the John Deere filters for my machine are Donaldson filters and are made in Mexico.
I got my backhoe used with 10,000 hours but I know the history of it. And I know they were using napa tractor/hydraulic oil in it. When I got the machine the trans was shifting very rough, grinding into second gear and hard to shift. Changed the trans oil with John Deere hy-gard and it smoothed everything right up, shifting way better now.
I agree with your position and opinion. Compromising my new tractor's warranty for a needed repair is not an option for me. While my warranty coverage could become an issue by using anything but what is recommended, is not a position am going to be stuck with. Grease, oil, hydraulic fluid....whatever! I will have a receipt and record!
I use whatever engine oil meets spec. I use OEM hydraulic fluid and OEM filters. I watched a video from messics concerning filters and determined oem filters are best.
I make sure whatever I use meets the tractor manufacturer requirements. Most of the time the oil I use is of a higher rating than the manufacturer requirements, all those letters and numbers on the oil bottles. Not an advertisement for Amsoil but all their products are above the manufacturer minimum requirements but more expensive. You know the saying “pay me now or pay me later.
I agree with you completely Mike. I am a Field Service Manager for an equipment manufacturer and occasionally have to make a decision as to whether a defect that appears to be lubrication related is covered under warranty or not. If I see that they use our recommended filters and they use oils or greases that meet our specifications, and they can show me documentation that the servicing has been done at the recommended intervals, then they usually have a pleasant warranty claim. I figure that if they are doing what we recommend when we recommend it, then they have met their responsibility in that regard.
William, can you send me an e-mail at mike@asktractormike.com? I'd like to be able to contact you if you'd be willing to visit.
Hey Mike,
I just replaced the hydraulic oil/transmission, and crankcase oil in my 2010 JD compact tractor(490 hours) which is out of warranty.
I used the OEM filters, and Shell Rotella(for diesel engines) in the crankcase, and Tractor Supply premium hydraulic/transmission fluid. I believe if you change the fluids and filters per the manufacturer's schedule it won't make any difference which fluids you use. In my JD manual it specifies what they recommend, but they also say you can use a different fluid as long as it meets the JD standard which they also specify. So far so good and I haven't lost any sleep over it. Mike, love channel and keep up the good work. You really give good advice for the weekend / hobby farmer like me.
Sincerely,
Bruce (Larkspur, Colorado) and former Drury College graduate 1982 and love Springfield Missouri
I got out of Southwest Missouri State in 1980, our path's may have crossed at Lucy's or Wicker Works :)!
Highly agree Mike. During warranty period, use manufacturer filter, lubes, and oils. Read the manufacturer manual for specifics.
I have used amsoil for a long long time, used it in my mowing business, all mowers and tactors never a lubrication failure
I now own my Grandfather's 1988 JD 420 garden tractor and 260 grooming mower. The tractor and mower have only ever been serviced with JD lubricants, filters and parts. It still "Run's Like a Deere". I'm adding a 3046R to the shed this year and I will continue to use only JD fluids and parts.
I have manufacturing and product management experience in another industry. I have a Ford 3000 1970 that I use what is specified by the manufacture code since this is an old tractor (Universal Tractor Fluid (UTF) equivalent to Ford/New Holland spec 134D). I perform the maintenance for my dad's JD 1025R 2016 and I use JD branded hydraulic fluid and filters, but the oil, I think I might have used JD brand, but wouldn't hesitate to use a high quality name brand oil. Same for the zero turn, JD filter, but 10W/30 engine oil.
Looks like I am a year late into this conversation. Nevertheless, I have to comnent cuz no one is mentioning a important variable. Where you live.
I live in triple digits tempts from June to beginning of Oct. The remaining months are usually 60's - 90's °F here in deep South Texas. The real kicker is 30 - 40 mph winds. Since I am in rural area, we get lots of dust from fields all around us, plus Saharan dust (yes, you heard right!) & smoke from Mexico.
It is down right stupid to spend top dollar on JDeere Plus-50 ii when I am most likely getting the same oil & additives from a diesel oil @ my local Walmart when I am dumping oil out anyway every 100 hrs due to dusty climate here.
My undergraduate degree was in Marketing. So I do salute JD for their exceptional Marketing team!
John Deere 1025R owner here. Yes, I use the manufactures fluids and filters. In my opinion, the cost savings comes from me doing it, at home, at my convenience.
Yes I use manufacters filters and oils and try and by them from my local dealer to support them .
After 30+ years in the car/truck world, the manufacturer will test the fluids in question.
Also, when a product is under warranty I always use their products.
Afterwards, I'm follow almost exactly my dad's example... if affordable/available the best that's around, to which I can live with!
Everything runs like a champ, as I'm extremely hard on my equipment within reasonable tolerance.
Yes I'm known to push the engineers designs.
As my dad told me once whatever you do, in the long run ... it will always come out of your pocket; one way or another!
Have a good day!
I worked in a busy local rural repair shop which repaired anything with wheels. Including lots of farm equipment. Had bulk rotella oil in stock. Always used a quality aftermarket filters. Never had a faluire.
Love all your tips i learned a lot from you thank you. I,m getting ready to do my 50hr going to use the brand that came out of it.
Mike Blackstone does oil analysis, if you send them samples you will see the difference in additive packages.
The most important thing is to actually DO the required service at the correct intervals. Using factory spec materials is a smart way to avoid trouble.
I have a Kubota L 3830. I called a friend that had a Gulf oil dealership for oil at a oil change time after warranty expired. He told me they cannot get the additives that is in the Kubota oil. He recommended Kubota oil. I, am tight with my money, but agree a hundred dollars is minor against the cost of a tractor.
No, Mike. I don’t use New Holland filters and lube. Shell Rotella and Wix filters. They’re about half what CNH charges, and all Shell products are very high quality. Using that brand since 2012.
As for getting the tractor serviced at the dealer…. He’s 26 miles away and I have no trailer.
One of their Mechanics once told me that CNH buys filters from various manufacturers to their specs with their CNH brand on them. Basically, they’re sourced from vendors who bid on the contract.
Mike I am like you, I always use the dealer oils and filters. I do the same thing with my Ford truck and I look at it the same way you do. If there is ever a problem they will not be able to say I used an inferior oil or filter because it come from the dealer. As long as it is a good brand it probably doesn’t matter but that’s the way I was raised also and that’s the way I always do it.
Bought my L4600 from a dealer. At the time of purchase I also bought all the fluids that the tractor called for. Non of the fluids they sold me had the kubota name on them.
I also use factory fluids and filters. Probably not necessary but it does make me feel better!
There are some oils that any brand can be used to replace. In my job (before retirement) I had to choose the oils for many extremely high tech pieces of equipment. After much time consuming research I found that much of the equipment could use any good oil that fulfilled the manufacturers spec. HOWEVER, some equipment (vacuum pumps, homoginizers, air handling equipment, mixers) required one type of oil only. This also applies to greases, which need to fulfill specific needs. One more point, we also scheduled random oil analysis every month. I guess what I am trying to say is do your research before you buy oils and grease. Spec sheets and SDS sheets can help you make a decision.
For LS tractors, manual recommends CS GalTec brand in their manual. It is from South Korea and it’s products are not sold in USA. The back door way to “cheat “ is to buy Chevron branded fluids and grease if possible……Chevron owns 50% of GS GalTec. Some brands if I recall use chemical markers to see if customer used their brand or some one else’s fluids. It helps when honoring or denying warranty claims.
So I find either fluid with owners chemical standards as stated in manual, or Chevron when possible as they own 50% of South Korean refinery.
Mike, I’ve got a Kubota 3130 made in 2006. I’ve also have a ZD1211 I bought new about a year and half ago, I put any diesel oil and auto Zone filters in the tractor and only Kubota fluids and filters in the mower. Knock on (wood) no problem with either.
I was raised the same way. I use the manufacturers OEM equipment and service with there parts.
If you watch videos of someone cutting open oil filters you'll never use anything but OEM or maybe WIX/NAPA filters.
For hydraulic oil, definitely use the manufacturer's oil. I've read lots of horror stories from someone using cheap stuff. Lots of stuff in that transmission case that can go bad when soaked in the wrong oil. Engine oil however, as long as it's a good quality diesel oil that meets the specs you should be fine.
I'm still pretty new to this, but my brother in-law has been farming for a long while. His advice was, if it's leaking, use the cheap stuff. If not, match what is in it.
Manufacturer’s filters yes, oils and other fluids no. My dad was an mechanical engineer and oils were very important to him. He tried to buy ones that were higher quality than what he felt the manufacturer sold.
Which ones did he find that were higher quality? 🤔
In my tractor, which is still under warranty, I use manufacture oils and filters. My dad, who has tractors that are older (MF383 and MF275) and he uses manufacture filters, but will use what ever oils are on sale that meets the requirements. His tractors, which use to be grandpa's tractors are still running. So, hopefully in 40 years I will be able to say the same about my Kubota.
I own a MF GC1720TLB. I only use manufacturer oils and filters. I have been a mechanic most of my life. I served 24 years in the USAF as an aircraft mechanic and I learned in the military there is nothing better than parts and fluids from the people that make the equipment. My equipment has always gone back to the dealership I purchased it from for service. I have a great relationship with the dealership. I don't know if it's just my equipment, but my tractor always gets washed when they are done with it.
Mike, now that McD knows your using their internet, the price of your coffee might go up! Appreciate your channel. Loving the Pat’s Quick Change Hitch I purchased through your store. Works great on my 1025r and not as restrictive as “the other” quick hitches.
McD hates me because I only buy off the dollar menu (which keeps getting smaller). They're struggling to keep their doors open because people like me use their internet and then don't feel obligated to buy anything. I guess it's because when the kids were little we spent enough with them to help them build a new store here.
Thanks for your business on Pat's Easy Change...that is a great product!
Ask Tractor Mike,Blackstone Labs oil analysis can compare oils like you mentioned in this video. I've sent my oil samples off for analysis from them for several years. Reach out to them, they have a YR channel also. I would love to see a video with you asking the questions related to tractor oils and hydrolic fluids.
I have only used John Deere oils and filters in my tractor with no failures. Where as I’ve used after market oil’s and filters in my Ford pickup which has over 300,000 miles with out a failure.
I'm on my second Kubota tractor. I traded up last year. First tractor used all Kubota fluids and filters. Never had a breakdown in 675hrs. New tractor I'm using all factory filters and hydraulic fluid, but am using shell Rotella engine oil. I think on HST tractors you should use factory fluid, gear drive, aftermarket is probably fine.
I use Kubota filters and UDT2 oil in my Kubota tractors. I do have a concern about sharing my grapple with my son’s Takeuchi skid loader due to different hydraulic oil.
I don’t have a tractor (yet) but my lawn equipment (Hustler) I go to the dealer and buy my filters from them I use the special synthetic oil they recommend. Why? That’s one of the few high dollar toys I own. I feel good about my machine and 20 years later it still cranks usually on the first start, I use the factory blades as well.
It’s more important that you do the maintenance than what brand you do it with.
Also if you have a very old Kubota like one I own and it develops 3 point issues.
Dump the UDT fluid and put 80w-90 in that dude like it came with.
As far as filters Kubotas are rebranded and their engine oil is one of four common diesel oils.
Unless their older. If they are they might only be SAE 30 wt.
I use JD oils and filters in my JD and have major services done at the dealership. Same as for my two Harleys [Sportster 35K and RoadKing 60K] and my two Toyota's [Tacoma 210K and Tundra 100K]. Have never regretted to date the choices I have made. However, I do oil and oil filters, and greasing more often than recommended in the manual. Had a JD 650 for some 35 years and now have a JD 2032.
I just the dealer stuff. Because it is only a few dollars extra and it keeps my dealer alive - very hard to get warranty/support if there is no one there because they went broke. I have a number of different oils at home as the dealer changes suppliers. Also the warehouse for the OEM filter manufacturer is between me and the dealer so if I really wanted to buy it a bit cheaper it is totally possible.
I generally buy the OEM filters on my 1994 4WD JD 855, just because not every store has the filters. I use OEM hydraulic fluid, but use over the shelf engine and gear oils and grease.
I so ewhat agree. If any piece of equipment is under warranty, I use what the manufacturer reccomends. As far as filters and fluids go, I don't believe ant tractor or equipment manufacturer makes their own petroleum products or filters. I may be wrong here (it's happened many times), but I think they use standards already set by mechanical and chemical engineers. Once it's out of warranty, if an aftermarket product meets the manufacturers requirements, I'll use it.
The way that I look at using the dealership for service items is that there are times when you may not be exactly within warranty and the dealer can see that you have been a loyal customer and is more likely to bend the rules because of it. Another thing to consider is that any dealership requires a lot of money to keep the doors open. If spending a hundred dollars or so more means that they keep their doors open, then you have helped the local economy as well as saved having to go a long distance from your place to the next closest dealership. When you deal with a local business the money keeps circulating in that community. When you go to a large chain to buy something, only a fraction stays in the community while the rest goes to line the pockets of CEOs who don't really care that much about your community.
Well my tractor is a 1985 Ford 2110. I buy my Hydronic Oil from tractor supply. It matches the manufacturer's specs... and as old as it is there ain't no warranty on it. I haven't had any issues yet. BTW.... I don't put the cheep 303 oil in anything but my dumptruck which leaks a bit.
I'm always going to go with Wix filters. They're basically the gold standard for filters. Now a FRAM... I wouldn't use that on my worst enemy's tractor.
Check out Messick's video on Kubota engine oil filters. The Wix didn't have near as big of element as OEM. I do use some Wix filters, but never an oil filter for a Kubota.
I have 3 Kubota products, a ZD 326, a RTV 1120 and a L3830HST. All have only used Kubota SuperUDT2 hydraulic oil and OEM filters. The engines have Rotella T6 full synthetic motor oil but OEM filters. Never had any issues
There is no question that the tractor manufacturers do not make their own lubricants, as you have said. However, most manufacturers do specify minimum standards and/or additives in their branded lubricants they source from their suppliers. If you have invested tens of thousands of dollars in a new or relatively new tractor, it only seems sensible to run the manufacturer’s lubricants.
Hi Mike. I have a Kubota L3540 and I am happier pay the bit extra for the genuine Kubota oil & filters.
I agree when you say about the free first service. Yes free labour but 600 Australian dollars for oil & filters.
Love the Kubota so worth looking after.. Keep up the good work. Love your channel.