Hey Tractor Mike, Interesting you discuss this topic. My first 4 years in the military I worked in the fuel Laboratory at the base I was assigned and I sampled and tested for this subject weekly. You are talking about sulfides that is created by the microbes in the fuel tank. If they are alone without water they will sour the fuel and ruin it as most often happens in gasoline when it gets old and turns to varnish. The sulfides occurs when there is a layer of water (moisture) interface with the fuel in the tank; that's when you get the globs of good developing. To prevent this we always controlled the water (sometimes entrained) and kept it removed from the fuel preventing the sulfides. Years and years later some companies developed a pesticide you added to fuel to kill the microbes which prevents deterioration of the fuel making it last much longer before souring (fuel stabilizer). I have used stabil in gasoline which has kept it fresh for 5 years in my antique car so I can vouch for it. Speaking of breaking up the water we used to use alcohol which would absorb the moisture/water and let it mix with the fuel to be burned (most fuel tank water treatments from years past contained a type of alcohol that would not hurt your engine). The important thing these days is use the treatment designed for modern engines (read application & instructions) and you will be okay. I use fuel stabilizer in every tank just in case something happens and the tractor is down for an extended period of time. Thanks for all the great videos.
Worked at a JD dealership for just over a year in the small engine department. We had 3 tractors come in with slimed fuel strainers (right at the bottom of the tank) due to microbial growth. On my personal 1025 I keep the tank 3/4 to full just to eliminate the air space. Hot shot is really good at getting rid of water.
I just bought my first tractor this summer, so I'm a rookie. I am looking into additives that do all the things you mention, and I asked the serviceman who delivered my tractor about those. He's a mechanic at the dealership. He recommended I put 3 to 4 ounces of ATF in each 5 gallon jug of fuel to help clean and lubricate the injector pump. I've been doing that. Still looking at anti-gel and anti-scum as well as water drier. You did a great job of explaining all that.
Very good information Mike. While I have only owned a diesel tractor for two years, I have owned a pre-emissions diesel Motorhome for 16 years. When ULSD came into existence, I started using a fuel additive called Pri-D. It not only helps with lubricity, but it also helps keep diesel fuel fresh and free of algae. RV’s tend to sit a lot, so this has been a problem with diesel RV owners for many years. Another method to keep algae out of your fuel tank is to keep the tank full when it’s in storage. This helps to eliminate air in the tank. I religiously do this along with the Pri-D. I have never suffered a water or algae problem. I now use Pri-D in my tractor. The specs don’t state that it is Tier 4 compliant however. I haven’t had any problems, but I am writing the manufacturer for clarification.
I am a 40 hour per year tractor user. I have a couple 5 gallon fuel cans (same as the yellow one in this video). I add JD’s fuel conditioner to every can religiously and fill my tractor’s tank full after every use. Even after the big freeze earlier this year in Texas, I had absolutely no issues. My tractor is a 2016. Great video and great advice. Thanks, Mike!
as a mechanic the best advice I can give is KEEP YOUR FUEL TANK FULL! Only been working at a JD dealership for just over a year and have already cleaned out at least 4 slimed tanks. on lubricity a good 2 cycle oil added at a 100 to 1 ratio will usually work pretty good for most non tier 4 mechanical engines. I use WELL FILTERED used engine oil in a dodge 95 B model diesel truck.
Really good video, Mike. I use an additive for my diesel fuel, but why not do a video that just discusses different types and brands of additives that help with these problems? You could show some that work with the algae and the gelling and the water. This would be very helpful.
As you said, it's pretty much all ULSD now, the red diesel is dyed to show that it isn't taxed the same as yellow diesel. The best advice that I can give is to buy fuel from a place that sells a lot of diesel, that way, you know that it'll be fresh and clean.. Truck stops and co-ops are the best options.
Hi Mike! Thanks for another very informative video! I have used Howe’s Diesel Treatment for several years now. The big difference I noticed was my water separator stopped accumulating water after I started using it and I haven’t seen any water in the separator since. So at least I know it does that job well.
I dealt with about 100 diesel generators, 4 boilers, and a diesel filling station. It can add stay away from biodiesel if you can. It has more problems with biogrowth than regular diesel. Another sign of algae is what looks like coffee grounds. You will often see it in the filler but shake the filter and see if any comes out. Biologics depend on the water in the fuel and removing it is the best protection. If your tank has a petcock on the bottom open it and drain any water. We used pumps that went to filters to clean and remove contaminates. The newer stationary equipment came with the system in place or as an option. This is something that would be fairly easy to make. Also the algae in tanks creates acid at the water diesel interface and will corrode your tank. Thanks for mentioning this topic which was a nightmare for me keeping hospital and laboratory generators running. Tractors are even harder because nobody wants to reprime the engine and a check valve or valves of any type are not on tractor fuel systems. We also used biocide additives in tanks when we found the problem and after we cleaned the fuel.
Hey Mike, I have the same exact tractor that you have, and I also use Howes diesel conditioner in my tank. I’ve been using Howes for over 40 years, and have never had an issue. The only thing you did that I don’t agree with is putting the additive in after the fuel. I was always told to put the additive in first, because it’ll mix better. I guess it’s a matter of opinion, but I think it makes sense. Keep up the great videos. Mike
Here in the northeast, the "oil eating bacteria" are super common in home heating oil tanks - Home oil is very very similar to diesel (or IS diesel in many localities) and it sits accumulating in the bottom of the heating oil tanks for years and years, as those tanks are rarely disturbed, and only then by filling. Weird stuff, but they (along with the acidic water they hang out in) will rust right thru a 1/8" tank filled with 200 gallons of oil. Your house smells like diesel for months. I change my fuel filters twice a year even though it may not need it. Spring and fall, when the anti-gel goes in in the fall. The filter housing gets an eyeball every time it gets fueled which is at about 1/2 tank, because I don't want to prime the injector pump. Don't want my tractor to be infected or sucking air. Good video!
Good advice. On extra thing that I'll point out is that I always fuel up at the end of the day as much as possible. With a full tank there is less air for condensation to build up. That is also when I try to grease things. Right or wrong I was always told that grease will penetrate better on warm fittings.
Too late for me. The "bio bug" hit me for the first time this year. NEVER saw this one coming as I had zero issues until now. A mass of gunk had made it to my fuel line and stopped my tractor immediately in the middle of a mowing session while in the back of my property, of course.. Had to leave it sit there for a few days until I could get some help in figuring out how to troubleshoot and clear the line. The filter glass was only showing a small amount of water at best, so I knew the problem was either downstream or upstream. A tech came out and helped me clear the line coming from the tank and that solved most of the problem. I've since added a chemical treatment to my yellow fuel cans and the tractor tank itself. I bought a screening funnel (that adds to the difficulty of filling) as an additional layer to try to catch the crud and also have a couple extra fuel filters on hand. My fuel line doesn't have a shutoff valve and is difficult to get to. That situation could be another topic for a vdeo for you.r channel.
Another great video Mike!! I drove a truck for 38 year's fueled before shuttin down I have used every fuel additive that truck stops had and used them I my tractors over the year's. I bought a new Mahindra 1526 in 2017 bought a bottle of Mahindra fuel additive it has been best I've ever used and I also use on road diesel last 3 year's no water in settlin bulb but I do top fuel off before I put her to bed. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
Mike, this was incredibly timely for me. As a brand new tractor owner still with its first tank of gas that came from the dealer. Yesterday, I bought a new yellow diesel can and an engine/fuel system additive labled to prevent the hazards/failure points you described. The next thing I will do is write down on the additive receipt the date of that first diesel purchase, additive measurement added to the tank and hours on the "clock". Got to dilligent about keeping the proverbial "paper trail" to fight any dealer/mfg-refusal to cover any repairs under warranty should I be confronted with such.
Hey Tractor Mike! That was a great video & fortunately I learned about the different types of fuels from driving trucks for 44 years & other than the lubricants in diesel fuel ( sulphur ) & the lead that was used in gasoline had the same basic principals both act as lubricants & the biggest problem with both is water getting in the fuel systems or condensation forming & the best advice is use fuel additives & top those tanks off , Additives are not snake oil they do work & I own 2 tractors a 1959 M-F 50 gasoline & a 2018 M-F 1526 diesel both run fine on required fuels & the M-F 50 runs fine on gasohol & if I need to get fuel that's straight gasoline I have to go out of my way to get it & the only other place to get it is at a way higher price is at a marina & so I make a point of keeping it topped off & use I stabilizers, & I've owned this M-F 50 for over 25 years so I've already done a valve job replaced fuel lines & the carb. to run on gasohol & I also put in a electronic ignition , So this engine is very reliable by today's standards & performs like a new engine. & when I bought the M-F 1526 I wanted to be under 25 hp so it is tier exempt , But there is another problem with newer fuels for both gasoline & diesel & that is carbon build up but that can be story for another day.
speaking about "lubricity", one should use a good quality heavy duty diesel engine oil to keep the rest of the engine lubricated, due to the loss of lubrication which was provided by the zinc content. since the EPA took the zinc out of all automotive engine oils, there have been a number of older engine failures due to not having the lubrication necessary to protect the engines.... the heavy duty diesel engine oils have much better lubricating properties than the common oils you will find at the auto parts store..
I agree with everything you mentioned. Regarding additional lubrication; Since 2004 I have run 2 oz. of cheap motor oil per gallon of diesel in my tractors and trucks. Occasionally alternating 2 oz per gallon of transmission fluid. My '92 6.5L TD chevrolet truck had over 300 k miles on it when I sold it. I replaced the injectors when I purchased the truck with 160k miles. Truck ran strong/smooth and still got 19/21mpg when I sold it. My 07 LBZ duramax has 260k miles on original injectors, 19/21 mpg still today. Additional lubrication is the key with low sulfur diesel.
This and several of your other videos have convinced me to keep my 20+ yr old Kubota L35 rather than upgrade to a new L47 with all the modern conveniences.
I use Stanadyne in the silver bottle. Stanadyne is the fuel injection division of Parker Hannefin so I tend to trust them. Always fill the tank at the end of tractor work while everything is warm to push as much of the humid air out of the tank.
Tractor Mike, the part you were talking about holding in your hand and not being able to reinstall is the needle valve used in the common rail injectors. To hold back 26,000+ psi of fuel pressure, the tolerances are measured in microns, not thousandths of an inch. Any water that sits in that space can corrode the injector closed… permanently.
Hello Mike once again great helpful video. I've talked to before and the fuel sludge build up in tank was my problem then. That's happened again this spring and it plugs up the fuel line from the tank to the first fuel filter. Tractor would run fine until it was put under load then it would starve for fuel and on the Massey 1754 the computer shuts tractor off and gives a generic engine code. Dealer covered the first fuel line replacement under warranty tractor was only 3 years old and 180 hours. This time it wasn't under warranty so I replaced section of fuel line and changed all fuel filters. I use Diesel Kleen additive but 3 years later it happened again. Fuel looks normal and 5 gallon cans are clean Everytime I fuel it. Thanks again keep up great videos.
This is great information Mike. I learn some of this information working on utility size combustion turbines. At that time in 79 we couldn’t get fuel to the meet the manufacturers spec.. We also had to clean all the storage tanks due to contamination from non-use. Combustion turbines didn’t run very much then. Cold weather operation without pre-heating the fuel caused fuel to accumulated in the second row of rotating blades, when ignition did occur we had fuel ignite were only hot gases should be flowing. Blades broke and pushed shrapnel through the remaining blades. We then had to re-build the entire machine upon inspection. 15 million dollar overhaul. Good experience for a young engineer but costly for the utility. Fuel spec. As oil is extremely important. Again great information. We need this practical knowledge. Diesel engines are the same - hot gas moves the piston.
Hi Mike! With all the good info regarding fuels, gelling, biomass, seasonal blends, you did dance around actual additive names and brands. You're right...additives on the market are hawked like potions and tonics at the county fair. It's very difficult to find good, empirical data on recommendations and needs for additives. Asking at my dealership is no different, and that's a big disappointment. What are we owners really recommended to do? It's a marketing world these days, so we really need the straight poop. Thanks for the info!
Funny you mentioned the deep freeze down here. I had a Deutz twin air cooled genny that fired right up and ran just fine at 15F. for a good lubricant a good 2 cycle oil will work just fine. I used a synthetic 2 cycle oil or just used engine oil in my m35a2 and it loved it.
Condensation is also a problem for those of us who keep fuel in bulk tanks. This time of year when it’s hot and humid during the day, and cool at night, it sucks in humid air as it cools, and then condensation is going to happen as it cools further. The condensation goes to the bottom of the tank where the pickup or outlet is, So additive is a good idea for your bulk tanks too. I like the Stanadyne products.
Great information! Thanks for doing these type video. I have been buying the taxed fuel because I was not sure if the off-road fuel was the low suffer grade.
Best is to allways use a conditioner in your fuel it adds lubricant that has been removed keeps your fuel good and when its parked fill full to prevent condensation in your tank. Have a good night good advise Mike.
I add kerosene to diesel fuel to make my own winter grade diesel. Up to 5 gals in a 20 gal fuel tank. My fuel supplier told me this. Works well, never had a problem with jelling even in northern NY
O have seen this several times seen it mainly on the new holland workmasters. They have black fuel tanks exposed to sunlight and tractors came of deep south ga, Florida, few other states
Either seasonal adjusted Diesel, or #1 during the cold months. Power Service religiously if I cannot get a hold of either one. Always top off at the end of day to prevent condensation. And drain that fuel/water when you fuel when's it cold.
Being a truck driver, as a rule of thumb, you start finding winterized fuel along a line north of St Louis or I70. Summer blend is usually south of I70
I just had my first experience with fuel killing the injection pump .I run tank low and refilled with fuel in the yellow plastic jug. I put tractor on the trailer it set for a week and returned to drill post hole .and starter when I started the tractor it has only run at full throttle. Service department says $2500 to repair.over 1100 in labor. I'm sick over this. 254 hrs.on the tractor. It's a none deet 2014 mahindra.
I once had a leaf blow into the fuel tank while I was pouring fuel into the tank. Not a large leaf, but about the size of my thumb. I tried and tried to siphon it out, but couldn't see in the tank to find the leaf and was never sure if I got it out. Was about to take the tank off and just dump it...but someone convinced me that the filter would get it. Never had a problem, and perhaps I got it out, but I don't think so as I never found it...so I gotta ask, what is the best way to deal with something like that?
Evening Mike, I agree with everything in the video. In the past I have used Walmart fuel injector cleaner as well as their top lubricant. Shaler Rislone is another good top cylinder cleaner lubricant which can also be added to the oil…just my experience, I’ve never had a problem in my tractor or SUV engines.
Stanadyne Performance Formula comes as close as anything to checking all the boxes. Good product. Run it in my truck and tractor every time I add fuel.
This happened to me, gunked up the fuel filters real good. Changed them out and ran a bunch of power service anti microb fuel supplement thru it and it was fine . After that I always add some to the tank. Lucky I caught it when I did. Depends on where you buy diesel, say at gas stations that don't usually sell a lot of diesel their tanks can be infected with the microbes. Then you put it in your tank and don't run the tractor very often you'll get the slime that gums up your filters. I always buy diesel from places that sell a lot of diesel. Something else, if you use bio diesel it will clog up your filters too. We had to quit using it at work cause we couldn't keep our diesel trucks running. After a few tanks truck would stop running cause the filters were clogged up. I won't run bio diesel in my tractor. I'll usually add a quart of transmission fluid to a tank of diesel to help lube up the fuel system.
Been there done that. The black “algae” was horrible and very hard to get rid of. Additives from Power Service so far has kept it away. Once is enough.
Great video. I have a NEW HOLLAND TC35D. At low RPMs 1500 or less I get air in my fuel filter, not at high RPMs. I replaced my fuel cap, fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter. I replaced the complete fuel filter assembly. I replaced the fuel line from the filter to the transfer pump. I replaced the transfer pump and the fuel line from the transfer pump to the injection pump. I do add marvel mystery oil to the fuel and an anti-gel additive. Please help.
Tom, this was over my head. You've done everything I would think of to do. I contacted the guru of New Holland tractors from the dealership where I used to work and he thinks you have a bad O-ring in the fuel filter bowl. It'll be on top of the bowl or just below the lip. Hope that solves it. After that, we don't know. You've replaced about everything else that would cause the problem. Good luck!
@@TractorMike I had one more idea. It could be taking in air from the excess fuel lines after the injectors. The line goes to the fuel filter assembly and y's off to the fuel tank. Not bad enough to leak fuel but will suck air. Do you think I could find the leak by spraying starter fluid along the line and fittings? Also I changed the entire fuel filter assembly thinking something was warped or the shut off was sucking air. Also replaced orange several times. Thank you so much for the reply. Tom
It's called a Tractor Caddy and it's available here: asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/. It fits almost all tractor roll bars, there are a few that are really wide that require special brackets and some with lights in the way that are tough to mount. If you'll e-mail a picture of your roll bar to me at mike@asktractormike.com, I'll take a look at it to make sure it'll fit.
You'll find that one on my website: asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/ If you have any further questions, feel free to email me at mike@asktractormike.com
Hi Mike. I just bought a 1952 Ford 8N and I’ve been running non ethanol in it but people have been telling me I should be putting an additive in the gas to lubricate the seals. What do you recommend
Thanks for this, Mike. It's not clear to me what water looks like in the bowl! I know I got a small clump of snow in my tank this winter while fueling. I've emptied the bowl but can't say I've seen anything.
Water and rust, just cost me 3,500.00 to rebuild my injection pump, plus had to install new injectors also,..this was on a JD 990...2006 model with 600 hrs on it.
I am actually restoring a 2003 Tc45D New Holland just like the one behind in the vid. The tank was half full when I got it and has been sitting since April with it all a apart. Id imagine not knowing how long it sat before I should depose of it being so humid here in Florida.
You never discussed #1 diesel vs. #2 diesel for us tractor owners in the North . #1 may cost a little more but it has lubricants added and resist gelling in cold climates plus better volatility and fuel efficiency .
This is timely for me since I recently had a fuel issue. Being in N Florida with high humidity it seems logical that subcompacts would come with in line water separators like outboard engines. I will be taking your advice and look into fuel additives.
Great advice Mike. I really like your presentation and knowledge on the subject. Here in New England I add an anti-gel additive in the winter. I didn't know about the slime or sulfur issues. I thank you and the person who wrote you the letter. Have a good one Sir
In the NE the primary heating fuel is fuel oil. When I'd get my fuel oil tank filled at my business I'd roll out a 55-gallon drum and have the delivery guy fill that, too, for the tractor. He was a diesel guy, so I asked him if the fuel oil would hurt the tractor, vs the ultra-low sulfur pump stuff. "Hurt?" He asked. "It would be lots better. It has the same amount of sulfur as the old diesel, and sulfur is a lubricant." Still have to add the anti-gel, though.
Good to know. The first time I bought diesel fuel I went in and asked if it was ultra low Sulphur. They did not know so they called their distributor. Distributor confirmed it was. I purchased fuel earlier this week. I noticed 2 stickers by the nozzle. 1 confirmed it was ultra low Sulphur and the othered stated anti gel was added.
So what isn't being said concerns the fuel system damage done by "biodiesel". Here in the Midwest this fuel is sold in virtually any truck stop or gas station pumping diesel in amounts of 5 to 20% bio. This fuel will separate in a fuel tank and totally gum up the entire fuel system over a period of weeks or months. Most of us who have equipment that is parked for prolonged periods avoid the use of this biodiesel. Also there is a water issue w the biofuel that wreaks havoc on modern high pressure injection systems. Would welcome a discussion on this topic.
Great videos. Thank you for all your information. Question. In the 90’ I had a Dodge Cummins and the garage recommended putting transmission fluid in a full tank of fuel. My truck ran well. Today I just bought a Rx6620 Kioti. Is it the same for my new tractor??
Just did bio-kleen and clear-diesel due to a bad case of biological snot. My usual supplier was out and I bought some off road diesel from someone else that doesn't have as high a turnover. Spent half the day replacing filters and rinsing out my tank. They need to make that float in the water separator blue instead of red. Can't see the dang thing when running off road diesel.
I’m trying to minimise fuel issues on diesel powered machines in my care by filling their fuel tanks up to the brim if the machines are sitting still for a while.
i got a 230 massy ferguson that sat up a long time over the last 10 years. the fuel went bad. i drained the fuel and got a half pint ogf the gluey dark colored varnish smelling sludge out of it. when i started it after setting up it ran good several hours then i parked it. the next day i cranked it and had a knocking sound coming from the front cylinder finally it got so bad i dont even crank it the idle is so rough..any advice? the man at the tractor place said i probably damaged the engine..if i change out the injectors and crank it do i run a chance of blowing the engine up? thanks
Yes. I removed the factory fuel filter from my Kubota BX23s (underneath the tractor, a real pain to change) and added a combination filter / water separator in a much more accessible location.
Shannon, no, but because of all the questions about that, I'm planning a follow-up video, and it could be more than one. I live about 15 miles from the headquarters of O'Reilly Automotive, a major auto parts retailer, and have contacts there who could tell me what they think are the best of all the products they sell. Stay tuned!
Thanks for asking! This is a Tractor Caddy and I sell it on my AskTractorMike website. You can use this link to see if it's something that might work for you. asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/
The first diesel fuel I bought for my new tractor I added the Sta-Bil diesel fuel stabilizer/additive. I don't use my tractor every day right now so I figured for the low cost of the additive/stabilizer it could potentially save me a lot of money in serious repair bills for fuel contamination from storage and lack of use. The directions say 1 ounce for 5 gallons when used for storage purposes but for normal usage you can do 1 ounce for 10 gallons. Well my fuel can is only a 5 gallon can but I've been putting in an ounce of sta-bil when I fill the can up. Due to the tractor sitting for longer periods of time I figured it was safer to use the storage ratio rather than the daily ratio.
I once owned a VAZ1500 - a Russian copy of the Fiat 124 - and the engine in that could run on low octane gas. The problem was, that in Sweden at the time, all low octane gas was unleaded, so it lacked the lubrication properties of leaded gas. My dad (I was just nineteen) solved the problem for me by telling me to dump a litre of two-stroke oil in the gas tank now and then.
excellent video I have had the Algae problem, and it was no fun. They sell a product to put it to prevent that or break it up. I use Hot Shot Secret EDT (everyday treatment) in all my diesels Trucks and Tractors and it works great.
I would encourage using additives with every tank full. In the long run it is inexpensive. As you say those of us with older rigs need the extra lube provided. Few of us fill up after each use, and run the risk of condensation in the tank. While not 1 bottle will treat all aspects, most brands have products that treat them. Condensation will usually be less prone when gel treatment is needed. Lots of well established brands out there.
I just bought a new Kioti tractor loader and the owner manual says not to use any fuel additives or it will void the warranty ! What do you think I should do ?
I bought 50 gals of fuel from a local station, The next day I pumped 5 gals into the JD and the JD stopped dead. Come to find out I had more than 30gals of water and the station was closed down due to bad tanks. Well it cost me $4500 new injector pump, new injectors, lines, fuel pump, tank cleaning, ........ I couldn't find the receipt so I was screwed. I now stick the tank every time I pump.
Be responsible and proactive to care for own fuel. Diesel fuel is and should be a serious concern. In 3 seasons, I treat my diesel fuel with Ford fuel conditioner. It contains a preservative, cetane booster and fuel system lubricant. In winter I use a Ford conditioner that contains the above plus an agent to prevent gelling. Coming out of my tank, the last step before going into the tractor fuel tank is a very fine filter and water separator. Each tractor has an engine heater keep the engine warm so to the engine start like it is summer.
Hey Tractor Mike, Interesting you discuss this topic. My first 4 years in the military I worked in the fuel Laboratory at the base I was assigned and I sampled and tested for this subject weekly. You are talking about sulfides that is created by the microbes in the fuel tank. If they are alone without water they will sour the fuel and ruin it as most often happens in gasoline when it gets old and turns to varnish. The sulfides occurs when there is a layer of water (moisture) interface with the fuel in the tank; that's when you get the globs of good developing. To prevent this we always controlled the water (sometimes entrained) and kept it removed from the fuel preventing the sulfides. Years and years later some companies developed a pesticide you added to fuel to kill the microbes which prevents deterioration of the fuel making it last much longer before souring (fuel stabilizer). I have used stabil in gasoline which has kept it fresh for 5 years in my antique car so I can vouch for it. Speaking of breaking up the water we used to use alcohol which would absorb the moisture/water and let it mix with the fuel to be burned (most fuel tank water treatments from years past contained a type of alcohol that would not hurt your engine). The important thing these days is use the treatment designed for modern engines (read application & instructions) and you will be okay. I use fuel stabilizer in every tank just in case something happens and the tractor is down for an extended period of time. Thanks for all the great videos.
Worked at a JD dealership for just over a year in the small engine department. We had 3 tractors come in with slimed fuel strainers (right at the bottom of the tank) due to microbial growth. On my personal 1025 I keep the tank 3/4 to full just to eliminate the air space. Hot shot is really good at getting rid of water.
I have used Power Service for over 40 years under extreme cold conditions and it's never let me down. I use it year around.
I just bought my first tractor this summer, so I'm a rookie. I am looking into additives that do all the things you mention, and I asked the serviceman who delivered my tractor about those. He's a mechanic at the dealership. He recommended I put 3 to 4 ounces of ATF in each 5 gallon jug of fuel to help clean and lubricate the injector pump. I've been doing that. Still looking at anti-gel and anti-scum as well as water drier. You did a great job of explaining all that.
Very good information Mike. While I have only owned a diesel tractor for two years, I have owned a pre-emissions diesel Motorhome for 16 years. When ULSD came into existence, I started using a fuel additive called Pri-D. It not only helps with lubricity, but it also helps keep diesel fuel fresh and free of algae. RV’s tend to sit a lot, so this has been a problem with diesel RV owners for many years. Another method to keep algae out of your fuel tank is to keep the tank full when it’s in storage. This helps to eliminate air in the tank. I religiously do this along with the Pri-D. I have never suffered a water or algae problem. I now use Pri-D in my tractor. The specs don’t state that it is Tier 4 compliant however. I haven’t had any problems, but I am writing the manufacturer for clarification.
I am a 40 hour per year tractor user. I have a couple 5 gallon fuel cans (same as the yellow one in this video). I add JD’s fuel conditioner to every can religiously and fill my tractor’s tank full after every use. Even after the big freeze earlier this year in Texas, I had absolutely no issues. My tractor is a 2016. Great video and great advice. Thanks, Mike!
as a mechanic the best advice I can give is KEEP YOUR FUEL TANK FULL! Only been working at a JD dealership for just over a year and have already cleaned out at least 4 slimed tanks.
on lubricity a good 2 cycle oil added at a 100 to 1 ratio will usually work pretty good for most non tier 4 mechanical engines. I use WELL FILTERED used engine oil in a dodge 95 B model diesel truck.
Really good video, Mike. I use an additive for my diesel fuel, but why not do a video that just discusses different types and brands of additives that help with these problems? You could show some that work with the algae and the gelling and the water. This would be very helpful.
As you said, it's pretty much all ULSD now, the red diesel is dyed to show that it isn't taxed the same as yellow diesel. The best advice that I can give is to buy fuel from a place that sells a lot of diesel, that way, you know that it'll be fresh and clean.. Truck stops and co-ops are the best options.
Hi Mike! Thanks for another very informative video! I have used Howe’s Diesel Treatment for several years now. The big difference I noticed was my water separator stopped accumulating water after I started using it and I haven’t seen any water in the separator since. So at least I know it does that job well.
I dealt with about 100 diesel generators, 4 boilers, and a diesel filling station. It can add stay away from biodiesel if you can. It has more problems with biogrowth than regular diesel. Another sign of algae is what looks like coffee grounds. You will often see it in the filler but shake the filter and see if any comes out. Biologics depend on the water in the fuel and removing it is the best protection. If your tank has a petcock on the bottom open it and drain any water. We used pumps that went to filters to clean and remove contaminates. The newer stationary equipment came with the system in place or as an option. This is something that would be fairly easy to make. Also the algae in tanks creates acid at the water diesel interface and will corrode your tank. Thanks for mentioning this topic which was a nightmare for me keeping hospital and laboratory generators running. Tractors are even harder because nobody wants to reprime the engine and a check valve or valves of any type are not on tractor fuel systems. We also used biocide additives in tanks when we found the problem and after we cleaned the fuel.
Brian, thanks for sharing. Great information!
Hey Mike, I have the same exact tractor that you have, and I also use Howes diesel conditioner in my tank. I’ve been using Howes for over 40 years, and have never had an issue. The only thing you did that I don’t agree with is putting the additive in after the fuel. I was always told to put the additive in first, because it’ll mix better. I guess it’s a matter of opinion, but I think it makes sense. Keep up the great videos. Mike
Here in the northeast, the "oil eating bacteria" are super common in home heating oil tanks - Home oil is very very similar to diesel (or IS diesel in many localities) and it sits accumulating in the bottom of the heating oil tanks for years and years, as those tanks are rarely disturbed, and only then by filling. Weird stuff, but they (along with the acidic water they hang out in) will rust right thru a 1/8" tank filled with 200 gallons of oil.
Your house smells like diesel for months. I change my fuel filters twice a year even though it may not need it. Spring and fall, when the anti-gel goes in in the fall. The filter housing gets an eyeball every time it gets fueled which is at about 1/2 tank, because I don't want to prime the injector pump. Don't want my tractor to be infected or sucking air.
Good video!
Good advice. On extra thing that I'll point out is that I always fuel up at the end of the day as much as possible. With a full tank there is less air for condensation to build up. That is also when I try to grease things. Right or wrong I was always told that grease will penetrate better on warm fittings.
Will a plastic tank still condensate?
@@mesanders1113 Yes, absolutely. The fuel tank material isn’t the relevant issue. Condensation and slime occur in both plastic and metal fuel tanks.
Thank you Mike. I did not know about the slime - definitely is something to keep an eye on.
Too late for me. The "bio bug" hit me for the first time this year. NEVER saw this one coming as I had zero issues until now. A mass of gunk had made it to my fuel line and stopped my tractor immediately in the middle of a mowing session while in the back of my property, of course.. Had to leave it sit there for a few days until I could get some help in figuring out how to troubleshoot and clear the line. The filter glass was only showing a small amount of water at best, so I knew the problem was either downstream or upstream. A tech came out and helped me clear the line coming from the tank and that solved most of the problem. I've since added a chemical treatment to my yellow fuel cans and the tractor tank itself. I bought a screening funnel (that adds to the difficulty of filling) as an additional layer to try to catch the crud and also have a couple extra fuel filters on hand. My fuel line doesn't have a shutoff valve and is difficult to get to. That situation could be another topic for a vdeo for you.r channel.
Another great video Mike!! I drove a truck for 38 year's fueled before shuttin down I have used every fuel additive that truck stops had and used them I my tractors over the year's. I bought a new Mahindra 1526 in 2017 bought a bottle of Mahindra fuel additive it has been best I've ever used and I also use on road diesel last 3 year's no water in settlin bulb but I do top fuel off before I put her to bed. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
Mike, this was incredibly timely for me. As a brand new tractor owner still with its first tank of gas that came from the dealer. Yesterday, I bought a new yellow diesel can and an engine/fuel system additive labled to prevent the hazards/failure points you described. The next thing I will do is write down on the additive receipt the date of that first diesel purchase, additive measurement added to the tank and hours on the "clock". Got to dilligent about keeping the proverbial "paper trail" to fight any dealer/mfg-refusal to cover any repairs under warranty should I be confronted with such.
Hey Tractor Mike! That was a great video & fortunately I learned about the different types of fuels from driving trucks for 44 years & other than the lubricants in diesel fuel ( sulphur ) & the lead that was used in gasoline had the same basic principals both act as lubricants & the biggest problem with both is water getting in the fuel systems or condensation forming & the best advice is use fuel additives & top those tanks off , Additives are not snake oil they do work & I own 2 tractors a 1959 M-F 50 gasoline & a 2018 M-F 1526 diesel both run fine on required fuels & the M-F 50 runs fine on gasohol & if I need to get fuel that's straight gasoline I have to go out of my way to get it & the only other place to get it is at a way higher price is at a marina & so I make a point of keeping it topped off & use I stabilizers, & I've owned this M-F 50 for over 25 years so I've already done a valve job replaced fuel lines & the carb. to run on gasohol & I also put in a electronic ignition , So this engine is very reliable by today's standards & performs like a new engine. & when I bought the M-F 1526 I wanted to be under 25 hp so it is tier exempt , But there is another problem with newer fuels for both gasoline & diesel & that is carbon build up but that can be story for another day.
speaking about "lubricity", one should use a good quality heavy duty diesel engine oil to keep the rest of the engine lubricated, due to the loss of lubrication which was provided by the zinc content. since the EPA took the zinc out of all automotive engine oils, there have been a number of older engine failures due to not having the lubrication necessary to protect the engines.... the heavy duty diesel engine oils have much better lubricating properties than the common oils you will find at the auto parts store..
Great video, I've been using opti lube in my tractor fuel for years and have never had one bit of trouble, good stuff!!
I agree with everything you mentioned. Regarding additional lubrication; Since 2004 I have run 2 oz. of cheap motor oil per gallon of diesel in my tractors and trucks. Occasionally alternating 2 oz per gallon of transmission fluid. My '92 6.5L TD chevrolet truck had over 300 k miles on it when I sold it. I replaced the injectors when I purchased the truck with 160k miles. Truck ran strong/smooth and still got 19/21mpg when I sold it. My 07 LBZ duramax has 260k miles on original injectors, 19/21 mpg still today. Additional lubrication is the key with low sulfur diesel.
This and several of your other videos have convinced me to keep my 20+ yr old Kubota L35 rather than upgrade to a new L47 with all the modern conveniences.
I use Stanadyne in the silver bottle. Stanadyne is the fuel injection division of Parker Hannefin so I tend to trust them. Always fill the tank at the end of tractor work while everything is warm to push as much of the humid air out of the tank.
Tractor Mike, the part you were talking about holding in your hand and not being able to reinstall is the needle valve used in the common rail injectors. To hold back 26,000+ psi of fuel pressure, the tolerances are measured in microns, not thousandths of an inch. Any water that sits in that space can corrode the injector closed… permanently.
Hello Mike once again great helpful video. I've talked to before and the fuel sludge build up in tank was my problem then. That's happened again this spring and it plugs up the fuel line from the tank to the first fuel filter. Tractor would run fine until it was put under load then it would starve for fuel and on the Massey 1754 the computer shuts tractor off and gives a generic engine code. Dealer covered the first fuel line replacement under warranty tractor was only 3 years old and 180 hours. This time it wasn't under warranty so I replaced section of fuel line and changed all fuel filters. I use Diesel Kleen additive but 3 years later it happened again. Fuel looks normal and 5 gallon cans are clean Everytime I fuel it. Thanks again keep up great videos.
This is great information Mike. I learn some of this information working on utility size combustion turbines. At that time in 79 we couldn’t get fuel to the meet the manufacturers spec.. We also had to clean all the storage tanks due to contamination from non-use. Combustion turbines didn’t run very much then. Cold weather operation without pre-heating the fuel caused fuel to accumulated in the second row of rotating blades, when ignition did occur we had fuel ignite were only hot gases should be flowing. Blades broke and pushed shrapnel through the remaining blades. We then had to re-build the entire machine upon inspection. 15 million dollar overhaul. Good experience for a young engineer but costly for the utility. Fuel spec. As oil is extremely important. Again great information. We need this practical knowledge. Diesel engines are the same - hot gas moves the piston.
Hi Mike! With all the good info regarding fuels, gelling, biomass, seasonal blends, you did dance around actual additive names and brands. You're right...additives on the market are hawked like potions and tonics at the county fair. It's very difficult to find good, empirical data on recommendations and needs for additives. Asking at my dealership is no different, and that's a big disappointment. What are we owners really recommended to do? It's a marketing world these days, so we really need the straight poop. Thanks for the info!
OPTILUBE!
The Project Farm channel had done extensive testing on these additives. Independent and honest reviews!
Thank you for your knowledge wisdom and sharing this with us
Funny you mentioned the deep freeze down here. I had a Deutz twin air cooled genny that fired right up and ran just fine at 15F. for a good lubricant a good 2 cycle oil will work just fine. I used a synthetic 2 cycle oil or just used engine oil in my m35a2 and it loved it.
Condensation is also a problem for those of us who keep fuel in bulk tanks. This time of year when it’s hot and humid during the day, and cool at night, it sucks in humid air as it cools, and then condensation is going to happen as it cools further. The condensation goes to the bottom of the tank where the pickup or outlet is, So additive is a good idea for your bulk tanks too. I like the Stanadyne products.
Great information! Thanks for doing these type video.
I have been buying the taxed fuel because I was not sure if the off-road fuel was the low suffer grade.
Mike , you did well 100% factual .
Best is to allways use a conditioner in your fuel it adds lubricant that has been removed keeps your fuel good and when its parked fill full to prevent condensation in your tank. Have a good night good advise Mike.
I add kerosene to diesel fuel to make my own winter grade diesel. Up to 5 gals in a 20 gal fuel tank. My fuel supplier told me this. Works well, never had a problem with jelling even in northern NY
O have seen this several times seen it mainly on the new holland workmasters. They have black fuel tanks exposed to sunlight and tractors came of deep south ga, Florida, few other states
As usual excellent presentation. Thanks as always for sharing.
Either seasonal adjusted Diesel, or #1 during the cold months.
Power Service religiously if I cannot get a hold of either one.
Always top off at the end of day to prevent condensation.
And drain that fuel/water when you fuel when's it cold.
Being a truck driver, as a rule of thumb, you start finding winterized fuel along a line north of St Louis or I70. Summer blend is usually south of I70
What time of year does it generally start showing up?
I just had my first experience with fuel killing the injection pump .I run tank low and refilled with fuel in the yellow plastic jug. I put tractor on the trailer it set for a week and returned to drill post hole .and starter when I started the tractor it has only run at full throttle. Service department says $2500 to repair.over 1100 in labor. I'm sick over this. 254 hrs.on the tractor. It's a none deet 2014 mahindra.
I once had a leaf blow into the fuel tank while I was pouring fuel into the tank. Not a large leaf, but about the size of my thumb. I tried and tried to siphon it out, but couldn't see in the tank to find the leaf and was never sure if I got it out. Was about to take the tank off and just dump it...but someone convinced me that the filter would get it. Never had a problem, and perhaps I got it out, but I don't think so as I never found it...so I gotta ask, what is the best way to deal with something like that?
Evening Mike, I agree with everything in the video. In the past I have used Walmart fuel injector cleaner as well as their top lubricant. Shaler Rislone is another good top cylinder cleaner lubricant which can also be added to the oil…just my experience, I’ve never had a problem in my tractor or SUV engines.
Have you added trans fluid?
I got duel walled tank with filter for my off road diesel. It is also over a dollar gallon cheaper
Stanadyne Performance Formula comes as close as anything to checking all the boxes. Good product. Run it in my truck and tractor every time I add fuel.
Pretty sure Stanadyne Performance Formula covers all of the issues you mentioned. Good video.
Mike what about seafoam às an additive for diesel fuel?
Definitely food for thought. Thanks
This happened to me, gunked up the fuel filters real good. Changed them out and ran a bunch of power service anti microb fuel supplement thru it and it was fine . After that I always add some to the tank. Lucky I caught it when I did. Depends on where you buy diesel, say at gas stations that don't usually sell a lot of diesel their tanks can be infected with the microbes. Then you put it in your tank and don't run the tractor very often you'll get the slime that gums up your filters. I always buy diesel from places that sell a lot of diesel. Something else, if you use bio diesel it will clog up your filters too. We had to quit using it at work cause we couldn't keep our diesel trucks running. After a few tanks truck would stop running cause the filters were clogged up. I won't run bio diesel in my tractor.
I'll usually add a quart of transmission fluid to a tank of diesel to help lube up the fuel system.
Good information.Thank you. Am still using a Hesston (FIAT) (1988 year) 4WD 6066 and need all the help I can get. It gets worked hard.
Been there done that. The black “algae” was horrible and very hard to get rid of. Additives from Power Service so far has kept it away. Once is enough.
Good video. Thanks for making it.
Great video. I have a NEW HOLLAND TC35D. At low RPMs 1500 or less I get air in my fuel filter, not at high RPMs. I replaced my fuel cap, fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter. I replaced the complete fuel filter assembly. I replaced the fuel line from the filter to the transfer pump. I replaced the transfer pump and the fuel line from the transfer pump to the injection pump. I do add marvel mystery oil to the fuel and an anti-gel additive. Please help.
Tom, this was over my head. You've done everything I would think of to do. I contacted the guru of New Holland tractors from the dealership where I used to work and he thinks you have a bad O-ring in the fuel filter bowl. It'll be on top of the bowl or just below the lip. Hope that solves it. After that, we don't know. You've replaced about everything else that would cause the problem. Good luck!
@@TractorMike I had one more idea. It could be taking in air from the excess fuel lines after the injectors. The line goes to the fuel filter assembly and y's off to the fuel tank. Not bad enough to leak fuel but will suck air. Do you think I could find the leak by spraying starter fluid along the line and fittings? Also I changed the entire fuel filter assembly thinking something was warped or the shut off was sucking air. Also replaced orange several times. Thank you so much for the reply. Tom
I don't know that I'd recommend the starter fluid thing, that scares me a bit. Hope you get it figured out!
Where can I get a rack like the one on your New Holland? Does it fit all ROPS?
It's called a Tractor Caddy and it's available here: asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/.
It fits almost all tractor roll bars, there are a few that are really wide that require special brackets and some with lights in the way that are tough to mount. If you'll e-mail a picture of your roll bar to me at mike@asktractormike.com, I'll take a look at it to make sure it'll fit.
lubricity - cool new word I'm going to use daily, thanks Mike!
Believe me, it's not something this hillbilly says a lot. I did feel sorta cool saying it.
Hi Mike could this oil AW46 fluid used in my hydraulic system and transmission for John Deere 410G backhoe?
Good video but my question is were did you get that rops rack on your tractor?
You'll find that one on my website: asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/ If you have any further questions, feel free to email me at mike@asktractormike.com
Sharing your knowledge/insight/life experiences, is Greatly appreciated - Always…
Hi Mike. I just bought a 1952 Ford 8N and I’ve been running non ethanol in it but people have been telling me I should be putting an additive in the gas to lubricate the seals. What do you recommend
Thanks for this, Mike. It's not clear to me what water looks like in the bowl! I know I got a small clump of snow in my tank this winter while fueling. I've emptied the bowl but can't say I've seen anything.
Water and rust, just cost me 3,500.00 to rebuild my injection pump, plus had to install new injectors also,..this was on a JD 990...2006 model with 600 hrs on it.
I am actually restoring a 2003 Tc45D New Holland just like the one behind in the vid. The tank was half full when I got it and has been sitting since April with it all a apart. Id imagine not knowing how long it sat before I should depose of it being so humid here in Florida.
What additives do I use? I do use one in the late fall & winter to stop it from gelling. Do I add different ones avoid the slime or water problems?
You never discussed #1 diesel vs. #2 diesel for us tractor owners in the North . #1 may cost a little more but it has lubricants added and resist gelling in cold climates plus better volatility and fuel efficiency .
What are the few exceptions that the sulfur is different in off road or on road diesel since 2014 ,thanks for the info
This is timely for me since I recently had a fuel issue. Being in N Florida with high humidity it seems logical that subcompacts would come with in line water separators like outboard engines. I will be taking your advice and look into fuel additives.
Good topic Mike....its one we don't think of sometimes 'till it's too late !
Thanks
pc
Great advice Mike. I really like your presentation and knowledge on the subject. Here in New England I add an anti-gel additive in the winter. I didn't know about the slime or sulfur issues. I thank you and the person who wrote you the letter. Have a good one Sir
In the NE the primary heating fuel is fuel oil. When I'd get my fuel oil tank filled at my business I'd roll out a 55-gallon drum and have the delivery guy fill that, too, for the tractor. He was a diesel guy, so I asked him if the fuel oil would hurt the tractor, vs the ultra-low sulfur pump stuff. "Hurt?" He asked. "It would be lots better. It has the same amount of sulfur as the old diesel, and sulfur is a lubricant."
Still have to add the anti-gel, though.
Check out Project Farm's video on anti gel. Howe's does well as anti gel but when added to fuel actualy has lower lubricity than plain diesel. Wild!
Good to know.
The first time I bought diesel fuel I went in and asked if it was ultra low Sulphur. They did not know so they called their distributor. Distributor confirmed it was. I purchased fuel earlier this week. I noticed 2 stickers by the nozzle. 1 confirmed it was ultra low Sulphur and the othered stated anti gel was added.
The diesel gel that can occur in the winter time with really cold temperatures. Will this go away or dissipate when warmer temperatures return?
I run in my old bobcat one a blend of 10 to 20 percent black diesel and 90 to 80 percent diesel. The black diesel adds lubricity and gets rid of it.
I've used Opti-Lube XPD for years and have never had a problem. I've also used Opti-Lube Preserve in storage tanks.
So what isn't being said concerns the fuel system damage done by "biodiesel". Here in the Midwest this fuel is sold in virtually any truck stop or gas station pumping diesel in amounts of 5 to 20% bio. This fuel will separate in a fuel tank and totally gum up the entire fuel system over a period of weeks or months. Most of us who have equipment that is parked for prolonged periods avoid the use of this biodiesel. Also there is a water issue w the biofuel that wreaks havoc on modern high pressure injection systems. Would welcome a discussion on this topic.
Don’t marine diesels have fuel-water separators? If so why can’t they be installed on tractor vs the bowl?
All three of my tractors and bobcats have water separators...
Great videos. Thank you for all your information. Question. In the 90’ I had a Dodge Cummins and the garage recommended putting transmission fluid in a full tank of fuel. My truck ran well. Today I just bought a Rx6620 Kioti. Is it the same for my new tractor??
Howes is good stuff I use it in all 3 of my Diesels
Could there be any issues with adding more than one type of additive? In other words, do all additives play well together?
Just did bio-kleen and clear-diesel due to a bad case of biological snot. My usual supplier was out and I bought some off road diesel from someone else that doesn't have as high a turnover. Spent half the day replacing filters and rinsing out my tank. They need to make that float in the water separator blue instead of red. Can't see the dang thing when running off road diesel.
Just wondering when the refineries start making winter fuels. And when they switch back to summer fuels.
Is there any option offered in tractor for automatically making 3point hitch lift when reversing tractor, especially for shuttle gear tractor🙂
I’m trying to minimise fuel issues on diesel powered machines in my care by filling their fuel tanks up to the brim if the machines are sitting still for a while.
i got a 230 massy ferguson that sat up a long time over the last 10 years. the fuel went bad. i drained the fuel and got a half pint ogf the gluey dark colored varnish smelling sludge out of it. when i started it after setting up it ran good several hours then i parked it. the next day i cranked it and had a knocking sound coming from the front cylinder finally it got so bad i dont even crank it the idle is so rough..any advice? the man at the tractor place said i probably damaged the engine..if i change out the injectors and crank it do i run a chance of blowing the engine up? thanks
Excellent information!
Would it be okay to put a sediment bowl on the fuel line somewhere for a diesel to help trap out water?
Yes. I removed the factory fuel filter from my Kubota BX23s (underneath the tractor, a real pain to change) and added a combination filter / water separator in a much more accessible location.
Hi Mike. Do you have a list of recommended products that you spoke of in your video.
Shannon, no, but because of all the questions about that, I'm planning a follow-up video, and it could be more than one. I live about 15 miles from the headquarters of O'Reilly Automotive, a major auto parts retailer, and have contacts there who could tell me what they think are the best of all the products they sell. Stay tuned!
Full or empty tanks rarely have moisture problems or microbial growth.
Love your channel, Mike!! Always informative!! Where do you get that rack for your ROPS??
Thanks for asking! This is a Tractor Caddy and I sell it on my AskTractorMike website. You can use this link to see if it's something that might work for you. asktractormike.com/product/tractor-caddy-tool-box/
@@TractorMike thanks a bunch!!
Iirc Mike invented that and sales it on his website
The first diesel fuel I bought for my new tractor I added the Sta-Bil diesel fuel stabilizer/additive. I don't use my tractor every day right now so I figured for the low cost of the additive/stabilizer it could potentially save me a lot of money in serious repair bills for fuel contamination from storage and lack of use. The directions say 1 ounce for 5 gallons when used for storage purposes but for normal usage you can do 1 ounce for 10 gallons. Well my fuel can is only a 5 gallon can but I've been putting in an ounce of sta-bil when I fill the can up. Due to the tractor sitting for longer periods of time I figured it was safer to use the storage ratio rather than the daily ratio.
I use the same product in fall/winter. Never had a complaint.
I once owned a VAZ1500 - a Russian copy of the Fiat 124 - and the engine in that could run on low octane gas. The problem was, that in Sweden at the time, all low octane gas was unleaded, so it lacked the lubrication properties of leaded gas. My dad (I was just nineteen) solved the problem for me by telling me to dump a litre of two-stroke oil in the gas tank now and then.
excellent video I have had the Algae problem, and it was no fun. They sell a product to put it to prevent that or break it up. I use Hot Shot Secret EDT (everyday treatment) in all my diesels Trucks and Tractors and it works great.
Project farm has a good video on diesel additives.
I would encourage using additives with every tank full. In the long run it is inexpensive. As you say those of us with older rigs need the extra lube provided. Few of us fill up after each use, and run the risk of condensation in the tank. While not 1 bottle will treat all aspects, most brands have products that treat them. Condensation will usually be less prone when gel treatment is needed. Lots of well established brands out there.
I just bought a new Kioti tractor loader and the owner manual says not to use any fuel additives or it will void the warranty ! What do you think I should do ?
I bought 50 gals of fuel from a local station, The next day I pumped 5 gals into the JD and the JD stopped dead. Come to find out I had more than 30gals of water and the station was closed down due to bad tanks. Well it cost me $4500 new injector pump, new injectors, lines, fuel pump, tank cleaning, ........ I couldn't find the receipt so I was screwed. I now stick the tank every time I pump.
Thank you for that information,
Be responsible and proactive to care for own fuel.
Diesel fuel is and should be a serious concern. In 3 seasons, I treat my diesel fuel with Ford fuel conditioner. It contains a preservative, cetane booster and fuel system lubricant. In winter I use a Ford conditioner that contains the above plus an agent to prevent gelling. Coming out of my tank, the last step before going into the tractor fuel tank is a very fine filter and water separator.
Each tractor has an engine heater keep the engine warm so to the engine start like it is summer.
Old mechanic friend said add a touch of Marvell Mistery oil to the gas/diesel and oil. Will never burn or hurt anything
denatured alcohol is the answer to moisture. But it's dry on the injectors.