One tool, blue tooth bone conduction headset. They go behind the head, have a mic boom on left side and go IN FRONT OF your ears and bypass your ear drum and inner ear bones and send sound direct to the nerves. The reason for this is because to hear the caller or music better in a noise filled environment, YOU HAVE TO WEAR EAR PLUGS! These headsets will not block external volume around you. The ear plugs will do that and amplify your call volume as well. Also allows glasses and hats to be worn more easily as well compared to other over the top style headsets. As a trucker I use Aftershockz open comm with boom mic. 1 hour charge gets 16 to talk and 5 minutes gets about 2 hours. Hope this helps!
OK Mike - here's one more: Refueling the tractor (gas or diesel) is when dirt and junk get into the tank. The smallest lint, dust, pollen and leaf specks all accumulate in the tank - and the only ways to get out are through a fuel filter replacement, a fuel sediment bowl or being stuck in some low spot in the fuel system. Same goes for water. One way to help is to get a fine mesh, screened, filtered funnel to help keep out "stuff" before it ever gets into the tank. Worst offender is the simple 5 gallon fuel can. Insects, cap dirt, rain drops and "flying fuzzies" always seem to end up in them. - Joe -
After turning those fluid filled tire stems to the top I like to use the air chuck and put just a little shot of air in before using the pressure gauge. Blows most of the fluid into the tire instead of in the gauge. Also a pump oil can
Mike there's two other things I keep around my tractor tools and they are, a large mouth adjustable wrench and a cheater bar. I also learned that a person should carry some tools on the tractor, Dad installed a used ammo box.
I picked up a Milton S-928 tire pressure gauge a few months ago. It’s designed for fluid filled tires, so it is stainless steel and spring-loaded to resist corrosion and trapping fluid. So far it seems nice and well-built. I also recently picked up some 3M WorkTunes hearing protection. I generally wear hearing protection anyway, but sometimes it’s nice to be able to do so while listening to music, podcast, etc. Audio quality is acceptable.
Not a new tractor owner, but only 18 years and not very heavily used. I find your videos really excellent, very informative to me not being a farmer. One thing I would like to suggest is for those owners that live on hilly terrain is a tilt gauge. Manufactures usually don't say at what level will the machine tilt over, due to too many variables. But I find it a useful visual aid along with seat of the pants judgement; you really don't want to go over down a hill, even with a rops. I glued it right in front of the steering wheel.
Hello Mike the way tractors are built today I would suggest that you build onto your shop shed etc where a good mechanic can live so there is less down time. Have a great day.
Something I figured out when I first got my MX5200, the larger size automotive wrenches and sockets are the smaller size for a tractor. That was a whole new set of tools to purchase. Harbor Freight Pittsburgh tools have been great for this. I also keep a large adjustable wrench, mid size ball peen hammer, and a long drift pin punch in the tool box on the tractor for work around the three points hitch. Yes the stupid little kubota tool box was replaced with a rather large ammo can to fit these tools in. One last recommendation, get a metal trash can with a lid or an oily rag can to place outside the garage/barn to place oily and greasy rags in.
Mike, I have a tool suggestion that has been great for my use. I attached a length of schedule 40 pvc pipe to my ROPS so I could slide a crow bar down into it. Cut a 1x2 in. notch at the end to keep it from rattling. The hook end of crow bar rest in this notch. This way I always have a pry bar handy when out in the field. Uses would be nudging equipment to attach hitch arms, knocking dirt from equipment (disk wheels), etc.
Great list, especially glad to see the safety equipment (goggles & earplugs). I would add a LockNLube grease gun coupler to go along with whatever grease gun you select. For $30, it is the best money you'll ever spend for making grease work faster, cleaner, and much less annoying.
Mike - WD-40 was SPECIFICALLY formulated (as a Military Use) Water Displacing fluid to get underneath and remove moisture from electrical circuit boards - NOTHING more. It just so happens that there are some ultra thin oils in it which, after they do their job, just vaporize in a few days. Bottom line is that while there is sort-a a thin oil as an ingredient it goes away really fast, making it NOT a reliable lubricant. Use penetrating oil for dry, rusty, high friction situations followed up with thin or thick oil for long term usefulness. Think about it - almost always WD-40 is gone in a couple of days and the trouble just returns. 😟 All the best Mike - always good to see you! - Joe -
Milton makes good air attachments. Get a chuck that clips onto the valve so you don't have to hold it on the whole time. I like the air wands over the leaf blower - better for nooks, engine compartments, air filters, shop vac filters, etc. (wear the goggles cause things go flying). Paint pen to mark allignments, but also torque values, pressures, socket sizes, hidden zircs, etc. Just got an oil udder but have not tried it yet - seems like a great idea. Shop vac works great for putting the hydraulic reservoir under suction when changing low filters, but they also make clamps for soft hoses. Work lights - lots of great rechargeable ones these days. Patience and a big prybar - 90% of the time a little finesse and patience do the trick, the big prybar is for the other 10%.
My tractor is older (1957 Case 401 diesel) and my go to tools include a 3/4 inch socket set with a 4 foot 'torque amplifier' bar, a set of box/open end wrenches starting at 1" and going up to 2-3/4". I also have a wet sleeve puller that I have used for replacing the cylinder sleeves in the 4 cylinder engine block, but have only had to use it once. A couple of big shop hammers and a 30 ton hydraulic jack for when I need to raise it up to work on it. Of course, I have all the other tools necessary for working on everything else, including a set of taps and dies for the appropriate size fasteners. That's all from 30 years of experience working on this old beast.
Interesting choice of top 10. Top tip on the hearing protection front is to get the ones with a string between them and put it around your neck, then they are always available and dont get dirty in your pcoket.
Lot of great suggestions! I would add a few different funnels that will work with the tractor fill points. Some of the best money I ever spent was a battery powered grease gun. I bought a Dewalt (because that’s what my other tools are) over two years ago and would have paid even more for it. It makes the job soo much easier! I’ve used my manual grease gun maybe twice in two plus years.
Hello, Mike. I really appreciate your channel and all the info you freely pass along. Thot i'd offer a tip ... When changing your hydraulic filter(s), it really does help to use a shopvac / wetvac by first putting the end of the hose over the fluid add port for the hydraulic fluid. This sounds goofy, but it (1) prevents making a mess and (2) it saves losing a lot of costly hydraulic fluid. Thot you might pass that tip along. Watch the K&H tractors channel where he does it... IT REALLY WORKS! : )
Mike, great video. I have been using a leaf blower for years to clean equipment before returning it to the barn. It also works very well to blow off any water after washing or being in the rain.
Your comment caused me to tell myself DUH. I've used my leaf blower to blow dust, grass, and dirt off of my equipment for years. But I would let my tractor set out and dry in the sun for hours before putting it back in the barn after hosing it down. Occasionally I would get towels out to speed the process up. Why did I not think about the blower???? It was sitting right there!! You just save me some time this next summer. Thank You. I owe you a drink.
Good advice . I like the socket type oil filter removers better . You can use a ratchet wrench and they don’t slip . Also good sticky chain lube spray or graphite spray for the the three point hitch ball sockets and swivel joints . Extra hitch pins and snap pins / clip pins . . Because you always loose one at the worst time . Battery strap handle for removing batteries and a terminal post cleaning tool . There is also a adapter that goes on the grease gun that is designed for u joint grease nipples too get in tight spots 👍
Great list! I would suggest a pair or two of rubber gloves or mechanic’s gloves. It’s excellent hand protection in a dirty environment and prevents the grease/oil dirt from getting on your clothes. The laundry Gods will thank you. 😉
A grizzled old USMC maintenance supervisor caught me borrowing one of his shop's grease guns. Told me always grab a handful of shop towels before touching the gun. I said "Because it's greasy from the last guy that used it?" He rolled his eyes and yelled "TO WIPE THE EXCESS OFF THE FITTING, SON!" LOL
Great list of must haves. I may have an anti freeze tester somewhere, but then I am one of those Florida guys you mentioned. Actually sitting on the tractor right now, been working with it all day. No putting it up for the winter for me.
Good advice! I have really become dependent on having a “tub-O-towels” brand hand wipes around to clean up my hands, arms and face after any repair work. You don’t appreciate it until you need it or run out of them. Super handy!
Good video Mike, always store grease gun with hose and pump head down so the oil won't leak out of hole for plunger rod. It will keep any air pockets out of the tube.
Thanks Mike - absolutely right on with your tool picks! The only one I don’t have is the leaf blower. I have the Stihl Kombi system and have several attachments, but not the leaf blower. I can’t decide whether to get the Kombi blower attachment or just get a cordless blower like the one you showed. I’ve told myself I will decide by spring LOL!
Amazon also had a set of oil filter sockets. They work great. To remove the engine oil filter on my Kubota BX you have to take off the front brush guard and front clip. It’s a huge pain. The sockets can reach in there and remove and install it without removing anything else. I don’t remember the brand but it came with a dozen sockets for about $30 bucks.
Jaco elite pressure gauges for sure. 0.1 psi sensitivity so you know your tires are exactly the pressure you want them at. I think it’s cheap protection for any axles that have locking differentials or meaty tires. The tractors got both so…. Even pressure side to side is a must. Measuring and matching their actual rolling OD is even better.
I have a 4-ft. pry bar that comes in very handy for levering implements this way and that to hook 'em up to the 3-point hitch. Also a couple of bungee cords to spread the lower arms of the hitch as wide as needed to slip past the implement connection points.
Thanks Mike. Just a comment on the tire pressure gauge. I put ballast in my tires. I use the Rim Guard you introduced me to. That stuff is really sticky. I thought I would be fine if I rinsed it with water afterwards. I even soaked it in hot water. But it never worked again. Then I found one designed for liquid contact. It works fine for me. The only issue is that it returns to zero when you remove it from the valve stem so I have to read it while connected.
You are the man, Mike! Thanks for the great info and I am looking forward to the next video buddy - if I were to recommend something here, it'd be a battery charger/booster. My old Massey has needed a boost a couple times when the battery gets too cold to start. Please keep making great content! Take care and God bless
Good advice. I already have all that but being an old electrician with bad hands I use a Milwaukee cordless grease gun to hit all those zerks. Also, like the WD-40 rack. I have them all too!
I would recommend having shop rags around fluid leaks or even just checking oil. Every tractor I've owned I keep a adjustable wrench, a pipe wrench, a small sledge hammer, and a couple screws drivers.
Hi Mike, really good video on basic tools in need. If you could do a video around "how to identify potential failures of hydraulic systems of a tractor" or may be "how to check the hydraulic system of the used tractor you gonna buy" hope it would help most
i agree with most of that and in the order. As a newbie just getting familiar with my tractor i had to buy better or larger tools for my 60 hp tractor. Grease takes on a job of it's own with all of the tractor equipment. Torque wrench had to work at a higher load than I had before, etc.
First thing I'd do is get rid of the little Mickey Mouse tool box that comes on most tractors and get one that will actually hold something. In addition to spare lynch pins, shear bolts (if so equipped), link pins etc., throw in a length of chain that may come in handy for pulling downed debris out of the way, or helping pull your neighbor's tractor out of the mud. For those of us who are unfortunate enough not to have a quick hitch, a tapered handle adjustable wrench (aka, spike wrench) is handy, not only for torquing various nuts, but also for help in aligning stubborn three-point hitch pin connections. A simple length of pipe is also handy to use as a cheater bar to augment those short wrench handles. Invest in a good pair of gloves, too, to protect your hands as well as those ear plugs and eye protection. Kudos, Mike, for mentioning the idiosyncrasies of checking loaded tire pressures and care of your tire gauge afterwards.
Great advice Mike. Over the years I have had to replace the micro tool box that came on my tractor. I used a "standard" size toolbox and mounted it in an out of the way place, hard to find on a tractor. It was larger and I was able to get most tools that I have needed "in the field" in it and don't usually have to go to the tool shed for some of the minor problems that arise. Also a great place for extra pins, clips etc.
As usual, lots of great tips… Growing up on a farm, many come natural, by using plain ole common sense - but, You’re Never Too Old, To Learn New, Better, Ways, Of Doing Things - or, Better Tools To Do Them With…
Mike, Great video. High pressure fuel and hydraulic lines require wearing the right style of protective gloves and goggles more robust than you have in case a mistake is made to prevent cuts from high pressure fluids. Thanks
I use different colored plastic caps on grease fittings. Different colors for different greases. Paint frequently torqued bolts different colors for different torque values.
Oil filter wrench ... And hydraulic fluid filter wrench. My 2 filters are hard to get to, I think I bought 4 different wrenches to get the filters off. I had a 3/8" drive socket set, not sufficient for a real tractor. 1/2" drive and some "bigger than homeowner" sockets are needed.
Great list Mike. I recently got the Shuttle Lube grease gun for Christmas and I love it. The old style always leaked. All the items that you mentioned are spot on. Like commenters on here, you could make that a Top 50 items list LOL. Your top 10 is a great place to start. Thanks for sharing.
I forgot to add this on Thursday when I first watched the video but I would suggest adding a "tire repair kit" which where I come from means tire plugs. They may not be usable on "tube" tires but are handy for a field repair on tubeless if you can figure out it's leaking before it goes completely flat.
Tractor Mike you invest in a set of ear muffs you can get them with am/fm radio or blue tooth the you listen to you tunes and protect what left of you hearing
A jack stand...will check that out. Could have used one the other day. I save large pieces of cardboard for placing on the ground before crawling around under large greasy oily things. Nitrile gloves are good, also. 3/4 drive socket set, with breaker bar and extensions. The knockoff sets are affordable, and good enough for what most of us do. For really greasy nasty jobs, a tyvek suit is affordable, and can be reused a few times.
the best tire pressure gauge I have found is Jaco tire pressure gauge I also found when I bought my kubota I needed a lot bigger metric wrenches and sockets
Re: tire gauge brands - I would recommend something from a reputible racing supply provider. Racing means checking tires a lot. I have the one from my racing days that I have owned for 30 years. I bought it from Pegasus out of Milwaukee and they still have quite the selection. Be prepared to pay around $50 for it. You are paying for both precision and durability. I am not so sure precision is as big a deal on tractor, but I do enjoy that gauge. Good comment on the hearing protection. I, too, between race car engines and a cheap .22, did a number on my hearing in my youth. I would recommend one of those 3m radio muffs. I would not be without my tunes mowing (about a 3 1/2 hour adventure for me). It reduces the impact of the outside noise and does not allow you to turn the music up too loud either. I am going to assume you get a spiff from the fine folks at WD-40 based on the product placement... ;-)
They send me all the free product I want and sponsor the channel, so if some of it works into a video, that's okay. I do use a lot of the product, used their Gel Lube on my garage door this morning when it was making a noise.
@@TractorMike I saw a row of WD40 products on the shelf behind you in the video. I WASH my tractor (and car and polished aluminum airplane) with a solution of 2 or 3 cups of WD40 (bought in gallon cans) in a 5 gal bucket…then add 3 or 4 gals of water forcefully to create an “emulsion”… which I use instead of soapy-water. Then I rinse with the hose and wipe down with an old towel (which once wet, acts as a chamois). The vehicle/tractor/airplane now acts like it’s been WAXed… water beads up on it. PLUS, all the hinges, rubber weatherseals, pivots, etc. have been lubricated and treated to prevent corrosion! Try it on the car!
After torquing bolts use a paint marker and paint a line on the bolt head/nut and the metal next to it. Then you can do a quick visual inspection for any loose bolts/nuts by checking that the line still lines up, if the bolt/nut rotates you'll see the lines get out of alignment with each other.
Harbor Freight just recently came out with a fancy tire pressure gauge Haven't gotten my hands on one, but it looks just like my $50 one I have have, for when I was motorcycle racing
Where blowing off the tractor is concerned, a portable leaf blower is okay, but I like a hose and air wand connected to the air compressor better. You get better air pressure, and if you get an extendable air wand you can go down into the engine compartment, get closer to the radiator and blow it out too, front and back.
Great tips! Mike and others, how important is it to have recalibrated your torque wrench? And where? I have a new Icon from Harbor Freight and like it. But clueless about where to have it checked.
I have a Milton, and it IS high quality. But Discount Tire GIVES AWAY free little cheap tire gauges …and one day I decided to check their accuracy with my Aircraft certified Milton. I have a dozen or more cheap/free Discount Tire gauges and they are ALL within 2% accuracy. Big surprise. Now I take them every time I go in for a free tire-check and give them to all my friends.
Good advice on tools. Question: When you were growing up on the farm, did you ever use the tire pump that used a valve screwed into a spark plug hole? It came with a plug wrench; the pump valve; and, usually an 8' hose. Put the valve in the hole; hook the hose to it; start the tractor and get the 'pump' started; then, hook it to the tire valve. You could blow up the tire on a loaded silage wagon with one.
@@TractorMike Yeah, you absolutely had to get the engine valve tightened securely. Otherwise, it would vibrate loose and blow out on an engine stroke. Quite a show when that happened.
If you figure out a way to store or hang your grease guns upside down, they are less likely to get air in them or lose their prime. Jaco makes a good tire gauge.
I use a blower to clean my tractor and shredders off before I bring them in from the pasture where I mowed. That way I don’t bring the wild brush/weed seeds into my yard area. Also, use it to keep dirt out of the barn.
I am hoping you can help me with the level of the forward and reverse pedal on my new kubota…. I have an old injury on my right leg and find it VERY difficult to use the forward/reverse pedal and I was hoping to be able to reduce the height of the pedal
Joanette, I'm not positive that it's possible to adjust the pedal height, but if you go to Kubota's parts website you can enter your model number and see diagrams of every part on that tractor. You should be able to see from the pictures how everything is put together and if there's a way to adjust the height. Here's the link: apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/. Good luck!
Hey Mike, seeing you use the Tekton torque wrench made me think of something. I have the same wrench and was using it the other night on my tractor. When I put it away I did a very strange thing, according to my wife a sac religious thing for me apparently. I for some reason read the instructions, and noticed they said when bringing bolts up to torque to pull the wrench towards you. Just noticed when you were torqueing the wheels and some of the loader bolts you were pushing down on the wrench. I am not at all critiquing cause I do the same and don't know if it really matters but I thought I would just pass the info on. Love your videos, thanks.
@@TractorMike “Pulling the wrench” is an old mechanics’ “Safety-Hint”… Experienced Instructors issue that advice because it prevents injury when the wrench slips or the fastener breaks.
At 60 hours the rear wheel came loose on my Massey Ferguson 1760M while I was cutting brush. It ruined the holes in the center plate, the dealership was good enough to warranty the plate, I just had to tear it down and replace it. I have a torque wrench now!
One tool, blue tooth bone conduction headset. They go behind the head, have a mic boom on left side and go IN FRONT OF your ears and bypass your ear drum and inner ear bones and send sound direct to the nerves. The reason for this is because to hear the caller or music better in a noise filled environment, YOU HAVE TO WEAR EAR PLUGS! These headsets will not block external volume around you. The ear plugs will do that and amplify your call volume as well. Also allows glasses and hats to be worn more easily as well compared to other over the top style headsets.
As a trucker I use Aftershockz open comm with boom mic. 1 hour charge gets 16 to talk and 5 minutes gets about 2 hours.
Hope this helps!
OK Mike - here's one more:
Refueling the tractor (gas or diesel) is when dirt and junk get into the tank. The smallest lint, dust, pollen and leaf specks all accumulate in the tank - and the only ways to get out are through a fuel filter replacement, a fuel sediment bowl or being stuck in some low spot in the fuel system. Same goes for water. One way to help is to get a fine mesh, screened, filtered funnel to help keep out "stuff" before it ever gets into the tank.
Worst offender is the simple 5 gallon fuel can. Insects, cap dirt, rain drops and "flying fuzzies" always seem to end up in them. - Joe -
After turning those fluid filled tire stems to the top I like to use the air chuck and put just a little shot of air in before using the pressure gauge. Blows most of the fluid into the tire instead of in the gauge. Also a pump oil can
You’re still my favorite tractor guy. You’re not cocky and full of yourself like some of the others. Love watching your videos
Mike there's two other things I keep around my tractor tools and they are, a large mouth adjustable wrench and a cheater bar. I also learned that a person should carry some tools on the tractor, Dad installed a used ammo box.
I picked up a Milton S-928 tire pressure gauge a few months ago. It’s designed for fluid filled tires, so it is stainless steel and spring-loaded to resist corrosion and trapping fluid. So far it seems nice and well-built.
I also recently picked up some 3M WorkTunes hearing protection. I generally wear hearing protection anyway, but sometimes it’s nice to be able to do so while listening to music, podcast, etc. Audio quality is acceptable.
Might do a video on what extra parts a tractor owner should always have on-hand as well. (filters, hitch pins, fluids, shear bolts, etc.)
Not a new tractor owner, but only 18 years and not very heavily used. I find your videos really excellent, very informative to me not being a farmer. One thing I would like to suggest is for those owners that live on hilly terrain is a tilt gauge. Manufactures usually don't say at what level will the machine tilt over, due to too many variables. But I find it a useful visual aid along with seat of the pants judgement; you really don't want to go over down a hill, even with a rops. I glued it right in front of the steering wheel.
Good tip, thank you - our farm has some rolling hills throughout the pastures and fields. Safety comes first!
Hello Mike the way tractors are built today I would suggest that you build onto your shop shed etc where a good mechanic can live so there is less down time. Have a great day.
Something I figured out when I first got my MX5200, the larger size automotive wrenches and sockets are the smaller size for a tractor. That was a whole new set of tools to purchase. Harbor Freight Pittsburgh tools have been great for this. I also keep a large adjustable wrench, mid size ball peen hammer, and a long drift pin punch in the tool box on the tractor for work around the three points hitch. Yes the stupid little kubota tool box was replaced with a rather large ammo can to fit these tools in. One last recommendation, get a metal trash can with a lid or an oily rag can to place outside the garage/barn to place oily and greasy rags in.
Mike, I have a tool suggestion that has been great for my use. I attached a length of schedule 40 pvc pipe to my ROPS so I could slide a crow bar down into it. Cut a 1x2 in. notch at the end to keep it from rattling. The hook end of crow bar rest in this notch. This way I always have a pry bar handy when out in the field. Uses would be nudging equipment to attach hitch arms, knocking dirt from equipment (disk wheels), etc.
Jerry, that's a great idea, thanks for sharing. I may do that myself...
Great video! I would add a paint marker to the list for match marking bolts after torqueing, or anything else you want to see if it moves.
Great list, especially glad to see the safety equipment (goggles & earplugs). I would add a LockNLube grease gun coupler to go along with whatever grease gun you select. For $30, it is the best money you'll ever spend for making grease work faster, cleaner, and much less annoying.
Mike - WD-40 was SPECIFICALLY formulated (as a Military Use) Water Displacing fluid to get underneath and remove moisture from electrical circuit boards - NOTHING more. It just so happens that there are some ultra thin oils in it which, after they do their job, just vaporize in a few days. Bottom line is that while there is sort-a a thin oil as an ingredient it goes away really fast, making it NOT a reliable lubricant. Use penetrating oil for dry, rusty, high friction situations followed up with thin or thick oil for long term usefulness.
Think about it - almost always WD-40 is gone in a couple of days and the trouble just returns. 😟
All the best Mike - always good to see you! - Joe -
Milton makes good air attachments. Get a chuck that clips onto the valve so you don't have to hold it on the whole time. I like the air wands over the leaf blower - better for nooks, engine compartments, air filters, shop vac filters, etc. (wear the goggles cause things go flying). Paint pen to mark allignments, but also torque values, pressures, socket sizes, hidden zircs, etc. Just got an oil udder but have not tried it yet - seems like a great idea. Shop vac works great for putting the hydraulic reservoir under suction when changing low filters, but they also make clamps for soft hoses. Work lights - lots of great rechargeable ones these days. Patience and a big prybar - 90% of the time a little finesse and patience do the trick, the big prybar is for the other 10%.
My tractor is older (1957 Case 401 diesel) and my go to tools include a 3/4 inch socket set with a 4 foot 'torque amplifier' bar, a set of box/open end wrenches starting at 1" and going up to 2-3/4". I also have a wet sleeve puller that I have used for replacing the cylinder sleeves in the 4 cylinder engine block, but have only had to use it once. A couple of big shop hammers and a 30 ton hydraulic jack for when I need to raise it up to work on it. Of course, I have all the other tools necessary for working on everything else, including a set of taps and dies for the appropriate size fasteners. That's all from 30 years of experience working on this old beast.
Interesting choice of top 10. Top tip on the hearing protection front is to get the ones with a string between them and put it around your neck, then they are always available and dont get dirty in your pcoket.
Milton (tire gauge) is the only one i would buy... made here and been here for ever.
Lot of great suggestions! I would add a few different funnels that will work with the tractor fill points.
Some of the best money I ever spent was a battery powered grease gun.
I bought a Dewalt (because that’s what my other tools are) over two years ago and would have paid even more for it. It makes the job soo much easier! I’ve used my manual grease gun maybe twice in two plus years.
Hello, Mike. I really appreciate your channel and all the info you freely pass along.
Thot i'd offer a tip ... When changing your hydraulic filter(s), it really does help to use a shopvac / wetvac by first putting the end of the hose over the fluid add port for the hydraulic fluid. This sounds goofy, but it (1) prevents making a mess and (2) it saves losing a lot of costly hydraulic fluid. Thot you might pass that tip along. Watch the K&H tractors channel where he does it... IT REALLY WORKS! : )
Mike, great video. I have been using a leaf blower for years to clean equipment before returning it to the barn. It also works very well to blow off any water after washing or being in the rain.
Most useful. Also for cleaning radiator screen in b the field. I think it would be more important than chain saw carrier.
Your comment caused me to tell myself DUH. I've used my leaf blower to blow dust, grass, and dirt off of my equipment for years. But I would let my tractor set out and dry in the sun for hours before putting it back in the barn after hosing it down. Occasionally I would get towels out to speed the process up. Why did I not think about the blower???? It was sitting right there!! You just save me some time this next summer. Thank You. I owe you a drink.
also good for blowing out the air cleaner.
Good advice . I like the socket type oil filter removers better . You can use a ratchet wrench and they don’t slip . Also good sticky chain lube spray or graphite spray for the the three point hitch ball sockets and swivel joints . Extra hitch pins and snap pins / clip pins . . Because you always loose one at the worst time . Battery strap handle for removing batteries and a terminal post cleaning tool . There is also a adapter that goes on the grease gun that is designed for u joint grease nipples too get in tight spots 👍
Great list! I would suggest a pair or two of rubber gloves or mechanic’s gloves. It’s excellent hand protection in a dirty environment and prevents the grease/oil dirt from getting on your clothes. The laundry Gods will thank you. 😉
A grizzled old USMC maintenance supervisor caught me borrowing one of his shop's grease guns. Told me always grab a handful of shop towels before touching the gun. I said "Because it's greasy from the last guy that used it?" He rolled his eyes and yelled "TO WIPE THE EXCESS OFF THE FITTING, SON!" LOL
Great list of must haves. I may have an anti freeze tester somewhere, but then I am one of those Florida guys you mentioned. Actually sitting on the tractor right now, been working with it all day. No putting it up for the winter for me.
Good advice! I have really become dependent on having a “tub-O-towels” brand hand wipes around to clean up my hands, arms and face after any repair work. You don’t appreciate it until you need it or run out of them. Super handy!
Good video Mike, always store grease gun with hose and pump head down so the oil won't leak out of hole for plunger rod. It will keep any air pockets out of the
tube.
Pressure washer is a must have item!
Thanks Mike - absolutely right on with your tool picks! The only one I don’t have is the leaf blower. I have the Stihl Kombi system and have several attachments, but not the leaf blower. I can’t decide whether to get the Kombi blower attachment or just get a cordless blower like the one you showed. I’ve told myself I will decide by spring LOL!
Amazon also had a set of oil filter sockets. They work great. To remove the engine oil filter on my Kubota BX you have to take off the front brush guard and front clip. It’s a huge pain. The sockets can reach in there and remove and install it without removing anything else. I don’t remember the brand but it came with a dozen sockets for about $30 bucks.
Jaco elite pressure gauges for sure. 0.1 psi sensitivity so you know your tires are exactly the pressure you want them at.
I think it’s cheap protection for any axles that have locking differentials or meaty tires.
The tractors got both so…. Even pressure side to side is a must.
Measuring and matching their actual rolling OD is even better.
Can't argue with a single thing on that list!
I have a 4-ft. pry bar that comes in very handy for levering implements this way and that to hook 'em up to the 3-point hitch. Also a couple of bungee cords to spread the lower arms of the hitch as wide as needed to slip past the implement connection points.
Thanks Mike. Just a comment on the tire pressure gauge. I put ballast in my tires. I use the Rim Guard you introduced me to. That stuff is really sticky. I thought I would be fine if I rinsed it with water afterwards. I even soaked it in hot water. But it never worked again. Then I found one designed for liquid contact. It works fine for me. The only issue is that it returns to zero when you remove it from the valve stem so I have to read it while connected.
You are the man, Mike! Thanks for the great info and I am looking forward to the next video buddy - if I were to recommend something here, it'd be a battery charger/booster. My old Massey has needed a boost a couple times when the battery gets too cold to start.
Please keep making great content!
Take care and God bless
Mike- I love watching your channel- has helped me a lot!!!
Good advice. I already have all that but being an old electrician with bad hands I use a Milwaukee cordless grease gun to hit all those zerks. Also, like the WD-40 rack. I have them all too!
I would recommend having shop rags around fluid leaks or even just checking oil. Every tractor I've owned I keep a adjustable wrench, a pipe wrench, a small sledge hammer, and a couple screws drivers.
Hi Mike, really good video on basic tools in need. If you could do a video around "how to identify potential failures of hydraulic systems of a tractor" or may be "how to check the hydraulic system of the used tractor you gonna buy" hope it would help most
i agree with most of that and in the order. As a newbie just getting familiar with my tractor i had to buy better or larger tools for my 60 hp tractor. Grease takes on a job of it's own with all of the tractor equipment. Torque wrench had to work at a higher load than I had before, etc.
First thing I'd do is get rid of the little Mickey Mouse tool box that comes on most tractors and get one that will actually hold something. In addition to spare lynch pins, shear bolts (if so equipped), link pins etc., throw in a length of chain that may come in handy for pulling downed debris out of the way, or helping pull your neighbor's tractor out of the mud. For those of us who are unfortunate enough not to have a quick hitch, a tapered handle adjustable wrench (aka, spike wrench) is handy, not only for torquing various nuts, but also for help in aligning stubborn three-point hitch pin connections. A simple length of pipe is also handy to use as a cheater bar to augment those short wrench handles. Invest in a good pair of gloves, too, to protect your hands as well as those ear plugs and eye protection. Kudos, Mike, for mentioning the idiosyncrasies of checking loaded tire pressures and care of your tire gauge afterwards.
Great advice Mike. Over the years I have had to replace the micro tool box that came on my tractor. I used a "standard" size toolbox and mounted it in an out of the way place, hard to find on a tractor. It was larger and I was able to get most tools that I have needed "in the field" in it and don't usually have to go to the tool shed for some of the minor problems that arise. Also a great place for extra pins, clips etc.
I mounted a 50 cal ammo can where my micro tool box used to be. Works great.
Number 1 tool.....YOUR BRAIN. Work smart
Good call outs. As a motor cycle rider, I have two torque wrenches. One is foot pounds and one inch pounds. I cant afford the expensive ones
Ridiculously helpful video, thanks Mike!
As usual, lots of great tips… Growing up on a farm, many come natural, by using plain ole common sense - but, You’re Never Too Old, To Learn New, Better, Ways, Of Doing Things - or, Better Tools To Do Them With…
Excellent items to have! Concur! Well done!
I keep a spud wrench on my tractor, near the rear. I use it all the time for various needs.
Mike, Great video. High pressure fuel and hydraulic lines require wearing the right style of protective gloves and goggles more robust than you have in case a mistake is made to prevent cuts from high pressure fluids. Thanks
I use different colored plastic caps on grease fittings. Different colors for different greases. Paint frequently torqued bolts different colors for different torque values.
Oil filter wrench ... And hydraulic fluid filter wrench. My 2 filters are hard to get to, I think I bought 4 different wrenches to get the filters off.
I had a 3/8" drive socket set, not sufficient for a real tractor. 1/2" drive and some "bigger than homeowner" sockets are needed.
Battery powered grease gun and replacement zerks. I like to put plastic caps on my zerks.
Great list Mike. I recently got the Shuttle Lube grease gun for Christmas and I love it. The old style always leaked. All the items that you mentioned are spot on. Like commenters on here, you could make that a Top 50 items list LOL. Your top 10 is a great place to start. Thanks for sharing.
Great list...looking forward to the next ten.
Thank You Mike , I appreciate all of your video's... Very Helpful..👍👍
I currently own 13 tractors, 2 excavators, and a dozer... never owned a torque wrench. The battery powered impacts really changed the game for me.
Thanks Mike! Ear & eye protection is a must!
Long acre or Jones racing are the best liquid filled tire pressure gauge. You can get them on Amazon.
Which one do you do you recommend there are several on Amazon thanks
I forgot to add this on Thursday when I first watched the video but I would suggest adding a "tire repair kit" which where I come from means tire plugs. They may not be usable on "tube" tires but are handy for a field repair on tubeless if you can figure out it's leaking before it goes completely flat.
Great list Mike I also have A Box of rubber gloves and a Box of rags bags always handy Good job Mike keep up the good work thank you
SPC
Tractor Mike you invest in a set of ear muffs you can get them with am/fm radio or blue tooth the you listen to you tunes and protect what left of you hearing
Very good info Mike. I really appreciate all the assistance. Thank you... Go Chiefs...
Thanks Mike. Looking forward to next week's video! 😁👨🚒
A jack stand...will check that out. Could have used one the other day. I save large pieces of cardboard for placing on the ground before crawling around under large greasy oily things. Nitrile gloves are good, also. 3/4 drive socket set, with breaker bar and extensions. The knockoff sets are affordable, and good enough for what most of us do. For really greasy nasty jobs, a tyvek suit is affordable, and can be reused a few times.
Great video, glad to say that I have every tool that you suggested including the filter wrench and use them all
I like the 3M Bluetooth Radio hearing protectors. You can listen to the radio and know when you get a phone call.
the best tire pressure gauge I have found is Jaco tire pressure gauge I also found when I bought my kubota I needed a lot bigger metric wrenches and sockets
Thanks, Mike. Helpful list.
Re: tire gauge brands - I would recommend something from a reputible racing supply provider. Racing means checking tires a lot. I have the one from my racing days that I have owned for 30 years. I bought it from Pegasus out of Milwaukee and they still have quite the selection. Be prepared to pay around $50 for it. You are paying for both precision and durability. I am not so sure precision is as big a deal on tractor, but I do enjoy that gauge. Good comment on the hearing protection. I, too, between race car engines and a cheap .22, did a number on my hearing in my youth. I would recommend one of those 3m radio muffs. I would not be without my tunes mowing (about a 3 1/2 hour adventure for me). It reduces the impact of the outside noise and does not allow you to turn the music up too loud either. I am going to assume you get a spiff from the fine folks at WD-40 based on the product placement... ;-)
They send me all the free product I want and sponsor the channel, so if some of it works into a video, that's okay. I do use a lot of the product, used their Gel Lube on my garage door this morning when it was making a noise.
@@TractorMike That is great! Good for you. From one sales guy to another, you are doing a great job!
@@TractorMike Try Fluid Film, it makes that stuff look silly....
@@TractorMike I saw a row of WD40 products on the shelf behind you in the video. I WASH my tractor (and car and polished aluminum airplane) with a solution of 2 or 3 cups of WD40 (bought in gallon cans) in a 5 gal bucket…then add 3 or 4 gals of water forcefully to create an “emulsion”… which I use instead of soapy-water. Then I rinse with the hose and wipe down with an old towel (which once wet, acts as a chamois). The vehicle/tractor/airplane now acts like it’s been WAXed… water beads up on it. PLUS, all the hinges, rubber weatherseals, pivots, etc. have been lubricated and treated to prevent corrosion! Try it on the car!
I use a digital caliper frequently. Especially for older tractors.
Nice list, appreciated!
After torquing bolts use a paint marker and paint a line on the bolt head/nut and the metal next to it. Then you can do a quick visual inspection for any loose bolts/nuts by checking that the line still lines up, if the bolt/nut rotates you'll see the lines get out of alignment with each other.
Good list Mike.
A nice tire gauge I found is from Rhino . Made in USA and not too expensive.
I wouldn't be without starting fluid, which I've used for many many years to clean the hydraulic couplers.
I was going to add the leaf blower. A Large pair of Water Pump Plyers, Channel Locks or slip joint plyers. Handy for pulling out hitch pins..
Thanks for this, Mike. I might be tempted to swap out a set of Tractor Genie tools for the leaf blower. Take care, Dwight.
Harbor Freight just recently came out with a fancy tire pressure gauge
Haven't gotten my hands on one, but it looks just like my $50 one I have have, for when I was motorcycle racing
I have a high lift jack come in handy for tractor 🚜 and changing tires on your trailers
A magnet on a stick. I keep mine by the door I use it so much. Dropping bolts, nuts and caps under the tractor. Beats crawling on your knees.
Where blowing off the tractor is concerned, a portable leaf blower is okay, but I like a hose and air wand connected to the air compressor better. You get better air pressure, and if you get an extendable air wand you can go down into the engine compartment, get closer to the radiator and blow it out too, front and back.
Great video Mike! Not really a tool but Don't forget a can of WD-40! On the tractor is perfect and keep one in the shop. 🙂
Do you think you have enough WD 40?
I kid. I kid. Love your content.
Great stuff, Mike. Love the UniJack. One is on the way 😃
Great tips! Mike and others, how important is it to have recalibrated your torque wrench? And where? I have a new Icon from Harbor Freight and like it. But clueless about where to have it checked.
Great video. I agree with your list. Keep up the good work!
On the tire gauge one, you can buy gauges that are built to handle fluid.
I've had a Milton tire inflator for thirty plus years. They have air gauges/inflators/misc. for many types of tires.
I have a Milton, and it IS high quality. But Discount Tire GIVES AWAY free little cheap tire gauges …and one day I decided to check their accuracy with my Aircraft certified Milton.
I have a dozen or more cheap/free Discount Tire gauges and they are ALL within 2% accuracy. Big surprise. Now I take them every time I go in for a free tire-check and give them to all my friends.
Good advice on tools. Question: When you were growing up on the farm, did you ever use the tire pump that used a valve screwed into a spark plug hole? It came with a plug wrench; the pump valve; and, usually an 8' hose. Put the valve in the hole; hook the hose to it; start the tractor and get the 'pump' started; then, hook it to the tire valve. You could blow up the tire on a loaded silage wagon with one.
Mike, no, that's a new one on me. I missed out on that adventure. Sounds interesting and potentially a bit dangerous!
How's that work on a diesel tractor? :)
@@TractorMike Yeah, you absolutely had to get the engine valve tightened securely. Otherwise, it would vibrate loose and blow out on an engine stroke. Quite a show when that happened.
@@TractorMike And completely useless with a diesel tractor. (wink)
If you figure out a way to store or hang your grease guns upside down, they are less likely to get air in them or lose their prime. Jaco makes a good tire gauge.
Blue Point tire pressure gauges from Snap On are really good. Both in quality and price point.
Tractor Mike has goggles that date back to the Carter administration
Actually, they may be Nixon :).
I use a blower to clean my tractor and shredders off before I bring them in from the pasture where I mowed. That way I don’t bring the wild brush/weed seeds into my yard area. Also, use it to keep dirt out of the barn.
Can you suggest a minimally painful way to measure pressure in tires filled with liquid ballast?
I'm shocked wd40 didn't make the list. Great content as usual Mike
Grease gun - I pull the plunger out a little and lock it after every use. That prevents leakage at both ends due to pressure.
I am hoping you can help me with the level of the forward and reverse pedal on my new kubota…. I have an old injury on my right leg and find it VERY difficult to use the forward/reverse pedal and I was hoping to be able to reduce the height of the pedal
Joanette, I'm not positive that it's possible to adjust the pedal height, but if you go to Kubota's parts website you can enter your model number and see diagrams of every part on that tractor. You should be able to see from the pictures how everything is put together and if there's a way to adjust the height. Here's the link: apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/. Good luck!
Great video.
Hey Mike, seeing you use the Tekton torque wrench made me think of something. I have the same wrench and was using it the other night on my tractor. When I put it away I did a very strange thing, according to my wife a sac religious thing for me apparently. I for some reason read the instructions, and noticed they said when bringing bolts up to torque to pull the wrench towards you. Just noticed when you were torqueing the wheels and some of the loader bolts you were pushing down on the wrench. I am not at all critiquing cause I do the same and don't know if it really matters but I thought I would just pass the info on. Love your videos, thanks.
Interesting. I've not heard that. I'm not sure I'm strong enough to do that anymore though, I'm kinda old :).
@@TractorMike “Pulling the wrench” is an old mechanics’ “Safety-Hint”… Experienced Instructors issue that advice because it prevents injury when the wrench slips or the fastener breaks.
At 60 hours the rear wheel came loose on my Massey Ferguson 1760M while I was cutting brush. It ruined the holes in the center plate, the dealership was good enough to warranty the plate, I just had to tear it down and replace it. I have a torque wrench now!