I've got a Hobart Champion 10,000 with a locked up motor. This helps a lot. I was thinking it might be easier to get that generator rotor loose with the motor still fastened to the frame but it looks like it came off pretty easy.
@@arcounited I'm ready to pull the rotor now but gonna let it rest tonight. Yes the video definitely helped I put masking tape on all of my wires with numbers written on the tape. On pins that I couldn't label I drew out a description of it and gave them a number on paper. I've never had to worry about the oil in this welder because of its safety shutdown. I became too trusting of it after 18 years and that safety shutdown stopped functioning. I ran it low on oil and locked it up I'm ashamed to say.
@@arcounited I see now where I had bypassed the oil safety switch when it failed so I could get a job done and forgot to order the part and put that safety feature back in place. My motor is unlocked now . I thought I had broke the rotor free but it was the motor becoming unlocked. So now I have rope in the cylinder and can hold the motor but the rotor will not budge. I'm gonna have to strap the welder down to even have a chance of breaking the rotor loose. That Stator is some kind of heavy!
I got a smaller Miller welder/genny to fix. Just scaled down a bit. Just finished a bobcat that fell off a barge. All full of water after a week under. All info you have here would apply I should imagine. Just going to spin a few first nuts right now. Managing the wire loom is a little different in that they all make passage thru a square conduit from the top of the housing. I have no idea what is wrong with the motor at this point.
They always say its harder than what it is!!! There is very little info about how to separate the generator from the motor that is why I made the video. Dang a week under water was it salt or fresh water?
The Bobcat was submerged in a lake. Barge sprung a leak and went sidways :P Okay I got an interesting thing going here. The model is a Bluestar 145 and I decided to check for spark and compression. Sure enough I got both. Only thing missing was the carb. Barrowed and installed one from a Reddiarc with the Honda GX200 powerplant (A very nice rental type stick welder) So it runs and yet there is no AC no welding ability either. Is this possibly the exciter circuit?? armature and windings all look very good. Lots of carbon on the slipring and so on. Any thoughts?
U did things the hard way. First before u even remove the engine mount bolts u loosen the armature rotor. U lock the flywheel in place with a 3" piece of ring gear from a junk flywheel, place it between the engine flywheel and the starter, meshing the flywheel ring gear teeth and the 3" piece together. Cheater bar and a large cresent wrench unscrew the rotor the same direction the engine runs. Soooo much easier than the way u did it.
I have the same exact problem with my 2004 Bobcat 250 Kohler 20 hp. smoking in one cylinder but had good compression. did you rebuild your engine? how did it turn out? any info on this process would be very helpful. thank you
Hi this one is a 2004 model with 2100 hrs on it. Yes I rebuilt the motor. Kohler offers three over sized piston/ring kits a 3-10&20 thou over. I did the three thou kit because there was just glazed cylinders a little to much ware for just a hone and ring job. The machine shop charged me $75 for a bore and hone job I think the pistons/ring head gasket ext was under $200. The disassembly and reassembly was FREE just a couple hrs here and there. Don't let compression fool you. If your getting oil into the combustion chamber it will give you more compression. A leek down test is far more accurate to determine ring ware. Beyond that just pull the head and take a look. Mine has about 2500 hrs on it now and running like new. The generator part of these millers should go 10000 hrs. So I may be in for another couple motor rebuilds LOL.
Thanks, I just got a 302 trailblazer with a broken conn rod, didn't come through the block though so I'm hoping I can fix it on the cheap.. I might try and break the rotor loose while everything is still assembled so I don't have to fight with it when it's unmounted.. thanks!
Hi Rx7man Well ,same happened to me. I'm now just going to remove the welder rotor from the engine by spinning it off. Then I'll take apart the engine. Once you took yours apart, was it only the connecting rod or was there more damage than you hoped?? Thanks, Rick
@@arcounited I wondered about valve seals if they might have been leaking oil into the cylinders. I'm ready to pull the rotor on my Hobart Champion 10,000 and it is not budging. I thought I had broken it free but the engine had become unlocked. So I put the rope in the cylinder and can hold the motor now but it is not budging. Might try a little heat tomorrow unless you have a better idea. I wish I had the right tool to hold it with . A pipe wrench eats that shaft up pretty good.
No I did not. They were standard pistons in it. the Machine Shop only charged me $75 for a bore and hone. I think all said and done with oversized pistons,rings a few the seals and head gaskets. Was bout $250. That's with me assembling everything.
What motor is in that machine , also how many hours i have the same model with an onan motor 1200 hour just want to calculate how many life is in my motor
hi. inline-6 cte.. I have da same welder.. I bought it from a guy but no luck.. it doesn't weld @ all .. but I noticed in Ur good video u mentioned those 4 thick black wires off da gen. I took da cover off my welder n I noticed them 4 wires r all off.. can u guide me just to put them back on c if it welds.. I might get lucky..I think those 4 wires go 2 da control panel that says stick/mig/Tig.. lmk if u can help plz.. thxz n GOD bless
Hi sorry for you trouble. The three large cables that come off the staytor/winding go to the polarity switch and the forth one goes to a ground. The main thing is DON'T attach the one that is ground to the polarity switch if you get the others mixed up all the will be screwed up is your polarity so you might be welding on neg polarity when your switch says positive and vise versa. I think first go to www.MilllerWelds.com they have all owner manual with "wire diagram" and can be downloaded as PDF file. Next I would go to your local miller dealership and see if they can help. Hope this helps good luck!
I have a miller bobcat 225 the engine quit running on me yesterday I started the machine to do some welding it ran for about a minute and turned off made noises and now when I crank it it sounds like it has no compression, any idea where I can get parts to rebuild it?
Hi the first thing I would do if you have low compression is pull your valve cover and make sure your push rods are not bent or exhaust valves are not stuck. If it is a kohler engine the next is to make sure you compression release mechanism is working properly. If the rings and cylinder are worn then you should have noticed alot of smoke during idle up and the motor using alot of oil. I got alot of my parts off ebay when rebuilding mine. The local machine shop charged $75 for a bore and hone job.
Your welcome...I could see the compression release mechonisam fail and dumping all you compression. The bad news is you'd have to pull the whole rear cover off to inspect it. Kohler made alot of these motors in different configurations. Get the spec# of the engine "should be on the flywheel cover" and go to ereplacementparts.com or jackssmallengins.com and they will have the microfiche of the breakdown of that engine. Find the part# you need and go to ebay enter that part# and you should find many parts. You may find better prices on the above mentioned sites. Good Luck
Inline 6 CTD many thanks I haven't had a chance to tear into it, i have been realy busy working, I had to buy a generator to power my mig welder to be able to finish a job on an 18 wheeler, I really appreciate you answering my questions getting this machine up and running again is a real big deal for me it's crazy bc it shows real low hours less than 150
so I took the heads off I found a lose rocker arm bolt the valve keepers came lose and the guide on the exhaust valve shattered filling both cylinders full of metal particles motor looks rough piston are chewed up
THANK YOU!!! For sharing this information. You are TRUE Tech for sharing this info with video. We always want to bring a man up.
Thanks man saved me a lot of time from looking up how to remove the generator thanks!!
Thank you so much for this video. It was just what I needed to see to complete my project.
+cwvowel Thanks for watching
I've got a Hobart Champion 10,000 with a locked up motor. This helps a lot. I was thinking it might be easier to get that generator rotor loose with the motor still fastened to the frame but it looks like it came off pretty easy.
Yeah good call... Good luck with your project I hope the vid helped!!
@@arcounited I'm ready to pull the rotor now but gonna let it rest tonight. Yes the video definitely helped I put masking tape on all of my wires with numbers written on the tape.
On pins that I couldn't label I drew out a description of it and gave them a number on paper.
I've never had to worry about the oil in this welder because of its safety shutdown.
I became too trusting of it after 18 years and that safety shutdown stopped functioning. I ran it low on oil and locked it up I'm ashamed to say.
Don’t feel bad I’ve screwed up a lot of motors in my day. You’ll have a great machine when you get it rebuilt!!
@@arcounited I see now where I had bypassed the oil safety switch when it failed so I could get a job done and forgot to order the part and put that safety feature back in place.
My motor is unlocked now . I thought I had broke the rotor free but it was the motor becoming unlocked.
So now I have rope in the cylinder and can hold the motor but the rotor will not budge. I'm gonna have to strap the welder down to even have a chance of breaking the rotor loose.
That Stator is some kind of heavy!
@@RC-Heli835 Hobart and Miller are sister company’s it should come off the same. Righty tighty lefty loosy 😬
well that last bit saved me some time Thanks.love the rope trick
Glad to hear it helped... Thanks for watching
The rear main seal on my miller 250 is leaking oil. Thanks for telling me how to get to it. It's worst than I thought lol.
Yeah very little info out there about how to separate these two half's. I just tour into it and figured it out as I go. Thanks for the comment!
Muchas Gracias por tu informacion. Pedagógica, práctica y sobre todo simple ..
I got a smaller Miller welder/genny to fix. Just scaled down a bit. Just finished a bobcat that fell off a barge. All full of water after a week under. All info you have here would apply I should imagine. Just going to spin a few first nuts right now. Managing the wire loom is a little different in that they all make passage thru a square conduit from the top of the housing. I have no idea what is wrong with the motor at this point.
They always say its harder than what it is!!! There is very little info about how to separate the generator from the motor that is why I made the video. Dang a week under water was it salt or fresh water?
The Bobcat was submerged in a lake. Barge sprung a leak and went sidways :P Okay I got an interesting thing going here. The model is a Bluestar 145 and I decided to check for spark and compression. Sure enough I got both. Only thing missing was the carb. Barrowed and installed one from a Reddiarc with the Honda GX200 powerplant (A very nice rental type stick welder) So it runs and yet there is no AC no welding ability either. Is this possibly the exciter circuit?? armature and windings all look very good. Lots of carbon on the slipring and so on. Any thoughts?
Thankss mann your video was helpful...
oh. by da wey Ur video was very helpful.. I told a friend of mine n he loved it .. 👍
Thanks for watching!!
Can this models weld and run a grinder at the same time???
Does anyone knows where I can find a carborator for a bobcat miller 250nt welder/generator 2004
U did things the hard way. First before u even remove the engine mount bolts u loosen the armature rotor. U lock the flywheel in place with a 3" piece of ring gear from a junk flywheel, place it between the engine flywheel and the starter, meshing the flywheel ring gear teeth and the 3" piece together. Cheater bar and a large cresent wrench unscrew the rotor the same direction the engine runs. Soooo much easier than the way u did it.
I have the same exact problem with my 2004 Bobcat 250 Kohler 20 hp. smoking in one cylinder but had good compression. did you rebuild your engine? how did it turn out? any info on this process would be very helpful. thank you
Hi this one is a 2004 model with 2100 hrs on it. Yes I rebuilt the motor. Kohler offers three over sized piston/ring kits a 3-10&20 thou over. I did the three thou kit because there was just glazed cylinders a little to much ware for just a hone and ring job. The machine shop charged me $75 for a bore and hone job I think the pistons/ring head gasket ext was under $200. The disassembly and reassembly was FREE just a couple hrs here and there. Don't let compression fool you. If your getting oil into the combustion chamber it will give you more compression. A leek down test is far more accurate to determine ring ware. Beyond that just pull the head and take a look. Mine has about 2500 hrs on it now and running like new. The generator part of these millers should go 10000 hrs. So I may be in for another couple motor rebuilds LOL.
Thanks, I just got a 302 trailblazer with a broken conn rod, didn't come through the block though so I'm hoping I can fix it on the cheap.. I might try and break the rotor loose while everything is still assembled so I don't have to fight with it when it's unmounted.. thanks!
Hi Rx7man Well ,same happened to me. I'm now just going to remove the welder rotor from the engine by spinning it off. Then I'll take apart the engine. Once you took yours apart, was it only the connecting rod or was there more damage than you hoped?? Thanks, Rick
How was oil getting on top of that cylinder?
Worn out rings "excessive blow by"
@@arcounited I wondered about valve seals if they might have been leaking oil into the cylinders.
I'm ready to pull the rotor on my Hobart Champion 10,000 and it is not budging.
I thought I had broken it free but the engine had become unlocked.
So I put the rope in the cylinder and can hold the motor now but it is not budging.
Might try a little heat tomorrow unless you have a better idea.
I wish I had the right tool to hold it with . A pipe wrench eats that shaft up pretty good.
Did you do a vid on the rebuild?
No I did not. They were standard pistons in it. the Machine Shop only charged me $75 for a bore and hone. I think all said and done with oversized pistons,rings a few the seals and head gaskets. Was bout $250. That's with me assembling everything.
How do you remove the generator part is there a bolt holding it down under the mount? Thanks!
At 1:10 that bolt goes threw the Gen housing and threw the frame. It needs to be removed.
What motor is in that machine , also how many hours i have the same model with an onan motor 1200 hour just want to calculate how many life is in my motor
It had 2200 hrs on it when I rebuilt it and bougt it second hand I dont think the previous owner did good maintenance. It is a kohler engine.
do you know when i can go to watch a video on cleaning the brushes and slip rings on a miller big 40
Sorry never worked on a big 40. Wish I had one though. Good luck
thanks man you are my new hero :)
Thanks for watching!!! Glad it helped
Nicely done 👍
excellent video, thanks for help
Glad to help thanks for watching!!
hi. inline-6 cte.. I have da same welder.. I bought it from a guy but no luck.. it doesn't weld @ all .. but I noticed in Ur good video u mentioned those 4 thick black wires off da gen. I took da cover off my welder n I noticed them 4 wires r all off.. can u guide me just to put them back on c if it welds.. I might get lucky..I think those 4 wires go 2 da control panel that says stick/mig/Tig.. lmk if u can help plz.. thxz n GOD bless
Hi sorry for you trouble. The three large cables that come off the staytor/winding go to the polarity switch and the forth one goes to a ground. The main thing is DON'T attach the one that is ground to the polarity switch if you get the others mixed up all the will be screwed up is your polarity so you might be welding on neg polarity when your switch says positive and vise versa. I think first go to www.MilllerWelds.com they have all owner manual with "wire diagram" and can be downloaded as PDF file. Next I would go to your local miller dealership and see if they can help. Hope this helps good luck!
Thx in line 6... Appreciate Ur help... But can you plz tell me which one is the ground and where does it come out from?
I have a miller bobcat 225 the engine quit running on me yesterday I started the machine to do some welding it ran for about a minute and turned off made noises and now when I crank it it sounds like it has no compression, any idea where I can get parts to rebuild it?
Hi the first thing I would do if you have low compression is pull your valve cover and make sure your push rods are not bent or exhaust valves are not stuck. If it is a kohler engine the next is to make sure you compression release mechanism is working properly. If the rings and cylinder are worn then you should have noticed alot of smoke during idle up and the motor using alot of oil. I got alot of my parts off ebay when rebuilding mine. The local machine shop charged $75 for a bore and hone job.
Inline 6 CTD thanks for the reply, it did not smoke I will be removing the valve covers tomorrow to check I looked on eBay with no luck
Your welcome...I could see the compression release mechonisam fail and dumping all you compression. The bad news is you'd have to pull the whole rear cover off to inspect it. Kohler made alot of these motors in different configurations. Get the spec# of the engine "should be on the flywheel cover" and go to ereplacementparts.com or jackssmallengins.com and they will have the microfiche of the breakdown of that engine. Find the part# you need and go to ebay enter that part# and you should find many parts. You may find better prices on the above mentioned sites. Good Luck
Inline 6 CTD many thanks I haven't had a chance to tear into it, i have been realy busy working, I had to buy a generator to power my mig welder to be able to finish a job on an 18 wheeler, I really appreciate you answering my questions getting this machine up and running again is a real big deal for me it's crazy bc it shows real low hours less than 150
so I took the heads off I found a lose rocker arm bolt the valve keepers came lose and the guide on the exhaust valve shattered filling both cylinders full of metal particles motor looks rough piston are chewed up
Hows it going? Would you mind if i messaged you with some questions?
sure email me at arcounited@yahoo.com
That’s the long and hard way to do it
Thank You for the information
+Xtinnoker Thanks for watching I hope it helped with your project.
Thank u for the video. I was I was about to break this fucking Miller
thank you for video
👍
Where is the serial number
You didn’t have to remove generator completely to take rotor off
What is this madness you speak of???
wow its just a giant alt.
Seriously? What did you expect?