Generator Armature Removal / Rotor Removal with Hydraulic Pressure (Water)
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- In the past I have used a rod to separate an armature from a tapered shaft. This time I tried an alternate method using water to create hydraulic pressure. It work just as good and will not damage the tapered shaft threads.
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I didn't believe this would work / I tried taping on bolt and didn't move tried this and it worked first time WOW THANK YOU
It is so cool seeing everyone here needing to do this one very specific thing and having this work for them. I haven't had to do this yet, but I'm sure I will soon. Thanks James for everything you do!
clever solution, thanks, I tried is using oil iso water and that worked fine.
Made mine come off like it was nothing. Great tip. Thanks.
I tried it with oil today and it worked.
Good idea i am so happy. Thanks again
I just saw your first time using hydraulics to remove the rotor. Your reaction was Beautiful. Not sure what jumped the most you or the rotor. 😃
Awesome
That assembly jump 😃
I fought with removing an armature for hours with pullers before seeing this video.
I was skeptical, but it was worth a shot.
Tapped threads, Teflon the crap out of the bolt and fill shaft with water.
Tighten bolt down as far as it would go and a tap with a hammer popped it off with no issues.
Amazing!!!!
James Condon , you are a king.
Just did mine this way and worked like a charm! So easy and smooth! Thanks!
You're welcome!
Physics for the win 🏆
Been trying the old bolt method for 2 hours and nothing.
Tried this and popped out like a charm 🤝👏
a really very clever technique
Awesome! thanks! Working on a Champion 224cc. Moved the governor arm too far.....
A little bit of lateral thinking .....Great idea, thnx for sharing.
It worked for me. I used water. The first time I tried it, it did not work. The second time I used more Teflon Tape, BOOM, it is a little frightening when it lets go?
Worked great for me! I tried using the bolt extraction method with impact gun first with no success. Thanks for the tip.
Glad it worked!
I had to use like 8 layers of teflon tape and an electric impact gun, but I got it to work!
Most excellent! Not sure why you cared about oil though. I little messy but no big deal. Is the threads on tapered shaft used on the install of the rotor? Why are they there? Thanks
I would have never thought that the water trick would have worked....but it did
It works well and very little cleanup.
You are very clever, great method
Problem solving at it'd finest, you never know if something will work unless you try it. Or just search UA-cam. Well done, ty for sharing.
I tried this method today, worked np . Also took me a couple Teflon application attempts but "pop".
It does not always work the first time. But usually works after a few attempts.
if you can get a zerk fitting to screw in the thds you can use a grease gun and pump it full and bang
grease is more expensive than water
@@vx-iidu And my time is worth more than 2 tablespoons of grease. If you use greases you don't need to pull the whole motor and invert the shaft. How much is an hour of your time worth? But your right, if you fill the grease gun with water it just might work
@@integr8er66 OK Boomer. Flipping a generator around on its side... boo hoo so hard, innit? Maybe your arthritic old joints can't handle it.
@@vx-iidu You are an idiot, first off I'm not a boomer, even if I was you would be smart to listen to an old guy, second you don't just flip it around you have to take the motor out of the frame, not all generators that you have to pull an Alternator from can be picked up and flipped around, but you go ahead and do that with a 20 KW unit if you want, for me ten cents worth of grease is worth it.
I'm trying to figure out, your picture is of a little girl, are you a 9 year old girl working on generators?
@@integr8er66 Well said. I was thinking grease as well "zerk fitting" good move. No way am I going to dismantle My Kubota to up end it.
Holy cow! You did it.Thanks for sharing .
Wow! Never would have thought! Very clever indeed.
Excellent method, it's unbelievable, thanks.
Worked a Treat Thanks for Posting this Vid
Thanks a lot James,now I'm gonna try it.
Edit : Done it !Amazing and very easy,mine have a broken spring,really small one on the decompression mechanical.
Glad it went well. Amazing how a broken decompression spring can cause such a headache.
@@jcondon1 yes just one little tiny part,and no store in my town sale it,so I must made from another spring.And today finally it work.Thanks a lot.
Threaded inside of armature. Used a bolt, oil, teflon tape and a dead-blow hammer on the side of the armature. Worked like a champ. Took a few tries with lots of tape. Also a small 3/8 cordless impact on the bolt.
Well done sir
I tried it ... and it worked ... thank you very much..
Excellent Job !!!! That worked great.
Alright, that's cool even if it doesn't work for me. It was fun watching you.👍
I want to say thank you I was trying to figure out how to get that damn thing off of there and like you in the video he says it works it took me a couple tries but I got it done it popped off just like he said it would and I'm telling you that that was a miracle thank you so much enjoy watching your videos
Very, very. Very Fantastic, sir
Thank you so much for sharing your ideas with us I have a Husky hu3650 brushless generator that needs a new stator
Bad ass hydrostatic pressure.
I’d make sure to use deionized water.
That is awesome. I’m going to try this. Thank you.
Wow great idea
This worked really well, thank you!
Very good video!
Thanks!
This is how the Pyramids were built:))))
Thanks, very enlightening ,appreciate it
Thanks for the idea✌️
I am literally going to have a go at this right now, as tried to rod method and the bolt screwed in to push it bent, so hope this works. :-)
The rods do tend to bend and/or mess up the threads on the tapered shaft. Hope it works for you.
@@jcondon1 It was the bolt I used to screw in against the rod which bent. The good new is the hydraulic method worked a treat so thanks for that. I actually used brake fluid, didn't have a problem with mess either. Ready with tha paper towels like a ninja :-)
@@jcondon1 I think there may be potential for the rod end to mushroom....may make removal a little difficult? Perhaps the hydraulic method is better or slide hammer approach?
John Rudd yes hydraulic method is better for that reason. I have had a rod end mushroom and also messed up the treads on the crank shaft using the rod method. Have not tried a slide hammer yet.
Essa dica foi maravilhosa!
super tare omule
fantastic idea sir.will you please upload a video about how to check a ignition coil of a honda gx 390 generator with multimeter.thanks.
I currently do not have any Honda coils to make a video about. I have a video on how to test the secondary winding on a Briggs coil. See this video ua-cam.com/video/Xa-akQ0Xl0I/v-deo.html at the 10:!5 mark. Same procedure, just different specs. I uploaded the spec sheet for a GX390 to drive.google.com/open?id=1qki6ddlxIqC_mKbEOOQ89Y5BWTZ5uY3i. The primary should be 0.8 to 1.0 ohms and the secondary 5.9 to 7.1 ohms.
@@jcondon1 thank u sir
INSERT CURSE WORD!! After 0.5 gallons of sweat, Ive done it!! Teflon didnt work, so i used normal strong and paste like the plumbers use(in EU), and it worked! I had first jammed a threaded bolt down there, so i was pretty out of my league, but suddenly it shot for the moon!😂 THANK YOU JAMES!
What is typical torque on the long bolt that goes to crank?
For that engine (10mm diameter bolt 28 ft-lbs). For the 8mm diameter bolts 18 ft-lbs). www.championpowerequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/CPETB7015002-Metric-Bolt-Markings-and-Torque-Values.pdf
fantastic
น้ำที่เอาใส่คือน้ำอะไรครับ
Hey James, thanks so much for this. I got 2 rods stuck after trying to get the rotor off using the rod method and after getting the second rod out with a lot of difficulty, I was running out of ideas. I used oil and still had to give the rotor a couple of wacks with a soft hammer before the rotor released. I recently did the valve clearances and the first run after that blew the crankshaft oil seal out of the housing. I checked the PCV valve in cover and it seemed fine and the hose was not blocked, but I am sure for some reason the cover could not vent. Do you have any ideas as to why that could have happened? I want to make sure it is not going to happen again when I reassemble.
Something similar happened to me once. I had the airbox off but still connected to the valve cover hanging. Doing so put a kink in the PCV line and caused my issue. As long as the vent tube is not restricted or under sized, then you should be ok.
@@jcondon1 thanks for your help James, really appreciate it.
I used grease before..I'll try water next time..eventhough i have a puller...
Rodney Brand what kind of puller do you use for a rotor? I used the water method again last week. Had an issue with it leaking out on the tapered shaft side. Had to use oil and an impact to build up enough pressure to pop it off.
Hey James, quick question. You happen to remember the size and pitch of the bolt you used with teflon tape?
Edit: I used another one of your videos and found it was M12 1.75. Thanks man. Subbed.
Bill Fry glad you found the correct size. Was going to guess M12, but I did not take note if it.
Modify to spin that fan w compressed air.
BOOM!
Wow😮
Why wouldnt a blast of high preasure air do the same. Like 20psi?🤔
Don't think so. Air is compressible. Not enough force will be applied.
hydraulic pressure, been doing my snowmobile clutches for years like this
I have a question
Can you please show us how to connect starter wiring and oil level indicator wiring and start switch?
shanks akagami I am releasing a video on Thursday which shows the total repair of the gp7500e. At the 33:40 minute mark I show reconnecting some of those wires. I can try to do a separate video just covering how those are connected.
Also a new video releasing on Thursday which covers the wiring in detail.
Hi mate i could u help what to do if the rotor is well stuck in using your mothod and trying to use the rod method
I've used a slide hammer threaded into the end of the rotor shaft to drag it off...
I have found the rod method and hydraulic method have worked best for me (the only methods that have worked). I have tried using a dead blow hammer on the rotor and an air hammer on a rod inserted down the shaft against the crank, but had no luck. Would think for something stubborn you could use the rod method and when the bolt is cranked down nice and tight, strike the bolt with a hammer or the rotor with a dead blow hammer to shock it off.
Can we use oil instead of water or not?
shanks akagami yes. Service manuals say to use oil.
This is the hardest part to do besides the testing
Cool
🎉
One thing be carful it jump from its place.
Nie trzeba na wodę mając gotowe nagwintowane wejście otworu w osi wirnika ,
Cuatos. Balez. .un .jenerados. Des .5. .kilos. Con. .motor .oke
Now just condense the video to a 59 second clip and post it to the new quick videos all over the timeline
Just drag the dot and shutup already..
otimo cara garanti minha vaga na empresa com o teu vidio como como faço pra dar um apoio em grana pra canal
top
Too dangerous for me
Ya dont disassemble it with the engine running, man.
Itll be fine.
I mean, if you want to go for expert mode, by all means, go nuts and repair it while running
Id advise against it...😂
Wow that actually worked....