Thank you very much for this video, I had to replace a piston on a 225G plus and this video helped me spin the motor off the generator. I would've never figured it out. Awesome information and video, thank you sir
sir on your miller bobcat welder engine removal video at about 10;20 the green wire coming from the idle solinoid is there any chance that you could trace that wire to see what numbered wire it plugs into It would be so much appreciated the scematics for the robin engine dont make since to me thank you
Mike, thanks for watching and commenting on my videos....Sorry to say, I don't have the generator any longer. I returned it back to the customer. As you can see from the video, it looks like the wires had been previously spliced, so it is hard to tell where they came from in the video. I did find this other video on UA-cam (link attached below) that explains the engine wiring.😄 I hope it helps... ua-cam.com/video/rnT9MzdTeKQ/v-deo.htmlsi=IpLJ34E8kJVzPAmE
Awesome video brother. I got a question to ask you. I have a Miller bobcat 225 welder. Similar to this one I need a detailed video of showing the wires that go to the range sector switch and polarity switch I purchased a used welder and it did not have the polarity switch. I have a new one now and need to know where the wires go if possible. Thanks 👍🏻
Ive always wondered why they just dont make the genset welder seperate from the engine and just couple it with a lovejoy? Is this just too simple? Any reason why they dont do this?
Thanks for watching my videos and your comments. In my opinion, it doesn't make business sense for them to make it that simple for folks to keep their GenSets working. For the most part, the GenSen is much more reliable than the engines they use to propel the Generator so if they make too easy to replace the engines, they wouldn't sell as many GenSets.. They are in the GenSet business and not the engine business... Also, they use engines with a special crankshaft to fit the rotor for two reasons, one is the one I mention above and the other is that it saves them money to construct a GenSet where they can use the engine to support one end of the rotor instead of having to add support and bearing one end of the rotor shaft. They is why we need to be creative when trying to keep these GenSets running and thus why I was able to mix parts of the engine to solve the issue... Thanks again...😄😄😄
@@easysimplemechanic8534 Yep. I came to the reality about this as well. Thanks for your input. The older onan engines are junk imho. One has to be able to machine an end cap on these gens with a bearing attached to the rotor/fan assembly and then its all good. I need a lathe badly. HAHA. This crap is all planned obselecense and chyknees mentality. Its gotta go
Just watched your video. I have never done this removal but it looks like I will soon. Governor is inoperable. From watching you video, could you break the shaft loose then just remove the 4 bolts holding the bell housing to the motor instead of separating it from the generator first. Seems like you would have to remove less stuff. Am I missing something?
First of all, thanks for watching my videos. I tried that first but found that getting to the bell housing bolts inside the cage was next to impossible without damaging the cage. Just a couple more steps made it easy to remove instead of messing with the bell housing bolts from outside of the cage. I hope this helps.....😊
@@easysimplemechanic8534 Thanks for the reply. Started on it today. Have to build a wrench to hold the front of the crank. Want to break that free before going forward.
@@Lspe7 If you don't have a tool, you can also take a spark plug out and fill the cylinder with some small rope to hold the crank from turning. This only works if the piston or rod is not broken...In my case, the rod was broken on one cylinder and I didn't want to hurt the other one by only using one piston to hold the crank from turning. I hope this helps.....😀
@@easysimplemechanic8534 I was able to break loose the shaft today. After looking at things I have to agree your method is better than just attacking the bell housing bolts. They could be removed with a ratchet wrench but would take all day. Thanks again for the video it has been very helpful.
I have a 1989 model Miller 225G which has the Onan 216G engine. It runs and welds on ac and dc, but it has an idle issue. I have replaced the plugs, fuel filter, and carburetor. It does run better but not the way it should, but what can you expect for free? I was looking at a possible repower, but before I order the replacement engine I would have to remove the old one and call one of the places available that sells a replacement engine in order to get the correct one. Otherwise, nice video and look forward to seeing the next one. I'm assuming the engine you took out is a Kohler? I have replaced plenty of lawn mower engines in the past, and after seeing your video the welder looks pretty simple. Good luck.
Thanks for the comment!!! If you watch the entire series, I believe I talk about some of the issues that I had with the idle on this unit. If the issue is high idle, it can be the idle solenoid that holds the engine at idle when you put the switch to idle. If the idle is low during the engine running, it can be the governor adjustment. BTW, the engine on this unit turned out to be a Subaru Robin Engine. Good Luck!!!
Thank you very much for this video, I had to replace a piston on a 225G plus and this video helped me spin the motor off the generator. I would've never figured it out. Awesome information and video, thank you sir
Thank you for watching my videos. I'm glad it helped you. 🙏
Just did a 225 and 250. Needed the engine fromnthe 225 to put on my 250. Wasn't to bad after the first time
Do you think a 110 electric motor will turn that generator at the right RPM ?
🤣 no
You can also remove the spark plug and put a small coil of rope in the cylinder to hold the engine so you can remove and or install the rotor.
Let's break open a few more Millers.
If I had them, I would....I'm sure I could make a few bucks doing that...🤣
sir on your miller bobcat welder engine removal video at about 10;20 the green wire coming from the idle solinoid is there any chance that you could trace that wire to see what numbered wire it plugs into It would be so much appreciated the scematics for the robin engine dont make since to me thank you
Mike, thanks for watching and commenting on my videos....Sorry to say, I don't have the generator any longer. I returned it back to the customer. As you can see from the video, it looks like the wires had been previously spliced, so it is hard to tell where they came from in the video. I did find this other video on UA-cam (link attached below) that explains the engine wiring.😄 I hope it helps... ua-cam.com/video/rnT9MzdTeKQ/v-deo.htmlsi=IpLJ34E8kJVzPAmE
Awesome video brother. I got a question to ask you. I have a Miller bobcat 225 welder. Similar to this one I need a detailed video of showing the wires that go to the range sector switch and polarity switch I purchased a used welder and it did not have the polarity switch. I have a new one now and need to know where the wires go if possible. Thanks 👍🏻
Ive always wondered why they just dont make the genset welder seperate from the engine and just couple it with a lovejoy? Is this just too simple? Any reason why they dont do this?
Thanks for watching my videos and your comments. In my opinion, it doesn't make business sense for them to make it that simple for folks to keep their GenSets working. For the most part, the GenSen is much more reliable than the engines they use to propel the Generator so if they make too easy to replace the engines, they wouldn't sell as many GenSets.. They are in the GenSet business and not the engine business... Also, they use engines with a special crankshaft to fit the rotor for two reasons, one is the one I mention above and the other is that it saves them money to construct a GenSet where they can use the engine to support one end of the rotor instead of having to add support and bearing one end of the rotor shaft. They is why we need to be creative when trying to keep these GenSets running and thus why I was able to mix parts of the engine to solve the issue... Thanks again...😄😄😄
@@easysimplemechanic8534 Yep. I came to the reality about this as well. Thanks for your input. The older onan engines are junk imho. One has to be able to machine an end cap on these gens with a bearing attached to the rotor/fan assembly and then its all good. I need a lathe badly. HAHA. This crap is all planned obselecense and chyknees mentality. Its gotta go
Just watched your video. I have never done this removal but it looks like I will soon. Governor is inoperable. From watching you video, could you break the shaft loose then just remove the 4 bolts holding the bell housing to the motor instead of separating it from the generator first. Seems like you would have to remove less stuff. Am I missing something?
First of all, thanks for watching my videos. I tried that first but found that getting to the bell housing bolts inside the cage was next to impossible without damaging the cage. Just a couple more steps made it easy to remove instead of messing with the bell housing bolts from outside of the cage. I hope this helps.....😊
@@easysimplemechanic8534 Thanks for the reply. Started on it today. Have to build a wrench to hold the front of the crank. Want to break that free before going forward.
@@Lspe7 If you don't have a tool, you can also take a spark plug out and fill the cylinder with some small rope to hold the crank from turning. This only works if the piston or rod is not broken...In my case, the rod was broken on one cylinder and I didn't want to hurt the other one by only using one piston to hold the crank from turning. I hope this helps.....😀
@@easysimplemechanic8534 I was able to break loose the shaft today. After looking at things I have to agree your method is better than just attacking the bell housing bolts. They could be removed with a ratchet wrench but would take all day. Thanks again for the video it has been very helpful.
I have a 1989 model Miller 225G which has the Onan 216G engine. It runs and welds on ac and dc, but it has an idle issue. I have replaced the plugs, fuel filter, and carburetor. It does run better but not the way it should, but what can you expect for free? I was looking at a possible repower, but before I order the replacement engine I would have to remove the old one and call one of the places available that sells a replacement engine in order to get the correct one. Otherwise, nice video and look forward to seeing the next one. I'm assuming the engine you took out is a Kohler? I have replaced plenty of lawn mower engines in the past, and after seeing your video the welder looks pretty simple. Good luck.
Thanks for the comment!!! If you watch the entire series, I believe I talk about some of the issues that I had with the idle on this unit. If the issue is high idle, it can be the idle solenoid that holds the engine at idle when you put the switch to idle. If the idle is low during the engine running, it can be the governor adjustment. BTW, the engine on this unit turned out to be a Subaru Robin Engine. Good Luck!!!
Do you want to sell parts off of it?
Thanks for watching and commenting on my videos. I would have but I returned all of the parts to the customer and he has already gotten rid of them.🥲
Think it’s fubar
🤣🤣🤣