To All: Here is what i've done, with a couple Champion 1200 watt gens, each with 80 cc engines. ((They are brushless - two magnets in the rotor - and a diode and resistor each, self -excite the rotor)) Took off the generator, from motor. ( --14:40-- time in this video ) Took angle grinder, and cutoff crankshaft, at the camshaft gear. Took that 3 inch or so - tapered end piece, and welded a 5/8 grade 8 steel bolt to it. Bevelled the end of it - about 45 degrees, to half of diameter of bolt. (for welding ) Centred it to the tapered 3 inch end of original crankshaft, with goes into the female rotor end. Welded her up (DC - electrode +) Good. Put this ,into large drill press - angle grinder again, to smooth the weld out, very good. Re-assemble generator, and put pulley onto the protruding shaft, ( the end of the motor housing, which contains the oil-filler cap). Put a 1.5 hp permanent magnet motor ( salvaged from an old floor scrubber - Tornado brand) onto bench- securing it and the generator. This motor, goes at 3,000 rpm. Choosing the right pulley, for generator to run at 3600 rpm. Good. Produces power - both of the generators. Now, just got to figure out ; ? replace the open bearing, in the motor housing end, ? with a sealed unit ? or put a cap over the end ( large washer) with a seal and a grease nipple ? oh well.....they both generate power - and can run an angle grinder and a small drill - but, the drive motor and gen , are maxed out. Anyway.....be creative , folks ! ( originally wanted to put it into the old chrysler intrepid - where the AC compressor was- but, alas, not enough room. Will find other uses - for them...Thanks, James, for teaching your boy ! ?...One, could just taper the 5/8 inch bolt - to the angle of the original tapered crankshaft, as well . Drill out the other end , and then tap it for the long through-bolt = holding stator/ rotor assembly to engine. ))
Great video, certainly helped me. In my case it ended up being an engine oil seal on the generator side, popped out. I do have some other tips. I didn't have a bolt to go in the hole, so cut the round stock for inside, and used a m10x1.0 tap to push the rod. It came to some pressure. So i stopped and tapped the armature with a rubber mallet. Pop!
James, great video. I can tell you have been in this business for a while. You are methodical and thorough. Thank you for making this video. This will help me tremendously. I work on larger heavier power Generstion equipment but have never done a little RV gen. I beleive my governor gear has taken a dump on this little Coleman 6250 I’ve got. So I need to get in and replace it. Your video will make the job go much smoother. One trick I have learned when pulling off a tapered shaft is once you start the tension with the forcing bolt, often a sturdy tap with a hammer on the head of the forcing bolt will break the taper fee. Those are decent looking little main rotors. Looks like they should be pretty robust. Thanks again.
Yes, the Briggs Storm Responder (none AVE gen heads) are build very well. Have had to do the tap trick a couple of times. Would love to get into the bigger stuff, but my garage would fill up quickly. Need to get a warehouse.
Excellent !!! I learned a LOT from this video. I never thought to put rope in the cylinder. I have always had a hard time trying to keep it from spinning. Now I know.
Will give the sliding hammer a try. Usually use rope or a strap wrench on the flywheel to hold things still. (needed for reassembly). But if the engine is blown then no need for rope. And impact will be fine.
Thanks James I picked up a Powermate 5500-seized engine (free) and was wondering what the disassembly would entail and Wala the 1st was the best and very clear and concise and of course your helper improves the video 100 percent.
I've tried a couple methods to press the rotor off using the openings on the side toward the engine and an apparatus to press it off against the outer casing. After worring about putting too much force on those webs, I'm going to go this route. I didn't want to have to buy an M12 tap, but this method is really the best way to separate the two with the forces going through the strongest components directly toward separating that interface.
Also instead of a rod you can fill the shaft with water (get all the air out). Put teflon tape on the bolt threads to seal it and drive the bolt in to build pressure. It takes a couple attempts, but it will also very safely pop the rotor off the shaft.
Question I have two generators I picked up one was free it fell off a truck and that one on the backside where it starts and it basically has no compression spins it the other one is a Briggs like the silver one you’ve been working on in this video he said he ran it out of oil but yeah I don’t hear any clanking and I don’t see any external damage but thank you for this video it shows me how to pull the state or end off any advice would be great
Another way that can be easier is to thread a bolt into the crankshaft of the engine and hit it with a dead blow and the armature will fall right off. Usually that works unless it’s a stubborn armature.
Question I have about generator replacement is, do have to get an exact replacement to swap? What things do you have to look for to get another one, shaft size, engine size?
Curious that you didn't try removing the bolt with an impact wrench first so that the inertia of the rotor would provide enough resistance to allow bolt removal. Or mabe you did try an impact wrench but it didn't work. Comment?
Hello, I'm very curious. Does that rotor have a permanent magnet. If there is no magnet, where is DC current given to the rings on the rotor. Greetings. I am from Turkey. Do you know Turkey.
Nice work on the removal of that rotor. I have a small Wisconsin powered set from the ‘40’s that has thus far eluded my efforts at removing its armature. It should be noted in the case of your machine that the rotor is the field, not the armature. Rather the stator is the armature, ie where power conversion takes place.
Hi James. Thank you so much for your very educative videos. I am so impressed about your knowledge of many many generators. I haven't seen any of your videos on portable diesel generators. Do you have one? My second question is l need to replace the electrical board on my Duro Power DP 6500 RDS diesel generator. I believe the board is discontinue. Do you have in mind which generator board will fit and work with my generator. Thank you very much.
Another well produced informative video. Around 12:40 you mention you have several rods you have accumulated to press the rotors off. Could you share the diameter and length of the rods in your set. I know you probably don't keep track of which one goes to which rotor but, it would help those of us trying this out for the first time. Thanks, and keep them coming! They're great.
I think 3/8” is what I used in this one. Not sure the length. Sometime I have to use water to push the rotor off because the rotor shaft either is too small or to large and the rod will push into the threads and damage them.
how much does the rotor a stator weigh together ...im removing genset from boat 5K size gen...would it be worth removing rotor and stator to ease removal...gen set weighs 230 lbs
That did not sound good at the end. It worked but I'd probably crap my pants. I know it's not a torque wrench but what about 130 lb/ft? A lot of these small engines are in/lb specs I have a Winco model that does not use a rod like this - the service manual says to remove the brushes, hold the stator and... hit the armature with a heavy hammer? If that doesn't work tap the core (do what? I was like). I need to get it off to get the crankcase open and replace the governor (only plastic part on this beast) because as you know it's kinda important to keep it at 3600 (runs at 60hz with 3kw load EXACTLY. Perfectly too. If a load clicks off it goes up to 75hz, 300V probably why it was free. Any work on these Wincos? I bought a 4lb lead (softer than the brass) hammer for the job just in case.
Jim Tuit most of the ones I work on are 7-20 years old. Most look the same. Probably out of the same Chinese factory. Honda of coarse builds good stuff. The only others I have seen that look different an maybe better are the Briggs and Stratton storm responder (the one without the AVR). They are also branded under other names like power boss, craftsman etc. The wire gauge is much heavier. The only downside is most do not have a low oil sensor and you must check the oil at least daily in an extended outage and without the AVR voltage fluctuates depending on load but a simple design is better in my book. The Generac 10000 watts and above look made better then most, but I do not like their engines much and the electronic are overly complicated. Generac 8000 and below look like all the others. Also working on and 30 year old Winco now and the generator head looks really good quality. Not sure about the new ones. Besides that a plastic fuel tank is better. Metal ones to not last. Oil sensor and AVR are good things to have.
I believe I just got that at the local auto store. Also been using a gear puller recently (also from an auto store) which seems to work a little better.
WHEN YOU MAKE THE THREAD YOU INTRODUCE WATER INSIDE THE SHAFT AND WITH TEFLON INTO A SCREW WITH THE SAME MEASUREMENT YOU TAG IT AND THE ROTOR COMES OUT AVOIDING INSERTING THE IRON ROD, ALSO IT COMES OUT WITH VERY PRECISION
Hello, I'm very curious. Does that rotor have a permanent magnet. If there is no magnet, where is DC current given to the rings on the rotor. Greetings. I am from Turkey. Do you know Turkey.
To All: Here is what i've done, with a couple Champion 1200 watt gens, each with 80 cc engines. ((They are brushless - two magnets in the rotor - and a diode and resistor each, self -excite the rotor)) Took off the generator, from motor. ( --14:40-- time in this video ) Took angle grinder, and cutoff crankshaft, at the camshaft gear. Took that 3 inch or so - tapered end piece, and welded a 5/8 grade 8 steel bolt to it. Bevelled the end of it - about 45 degrees, to half of diameter of bolt. (for welding ) Centred it to the tapered 3 inch end of original crankshaft, with goes into the female rotor end. Welded her up (DC - electrode +) Good. Put this ,into large drill press - angle grinder again, to smooth the weld out, very good. Re-assemble generator, and put pulley onto the protruding shaft, ( the end of the motor housing, which contains the oil-filler cap). Put a 1.5 hp permanent magnet motor ( salvaged from an old floor scrubber - Tornado brand) onto bench- securing it and the generator. This motor, goes at 3,000 rpm. Choosing the right pulley, for generator to run at 3600 rpm. Good. Produces power - both of the generators. Now, just got to figure out ; ? replace the open bearing, in the motor housing end, ? with a sealed unit ? or put a cap over the end ( large washer) with a seal and a grease nipple ? oh well.....they both generate power - and can run an angle grinder and a small drill - but, the drive motor and gen , are maxed out. Anyway.....be creative , folks ! ( originally wanted to put it into the old chrysler intrepid - where the AC compressor was- but, alas, not enough room. Will find other uses - for them...Thanks, James, for teaching your boy ! ?...One, could just taper the 5/8 inch bolt - to the angle of the original tapered crankshaft, as well . Drill out the other end , and then tap it for the long through-bolt = holding stator/ rotor assembly to engine. ))
Great video, certainly helped me. In my case it ended up being an engine oil seal on the generator side, popped out.
I do have some other tips. I didn't have a bolt to go in the hole, so cut the round stock for inside, and used a m10x1.0 tap to push the rod. It came to some pressure. So i stopped and tapped the armature with a rubber mallet. Pop!
James, great video. I can tell you have been in this business for a while. You are methodical and thorough. Thank you for making this video. This will help me tremendously. I work on larger heavier power Generstion equipment but have never done a little RV gen. I beleive my governor gear has taken a dump on this little Coleman 6250 I’ve got. So I need to get in and replace it. Your video will make the job go much smoother. One trick I have learned when pulling off a tapered shaft is once you start the tension with the forcing bolt, often a sturdy tap with a hammer on the head of the forcing bolt will break the taper fee. Those are decent looking little main rotors. Looks like they should be pretty robust. Thanks again.
Yes, the Briggs Storm Responder (none AVE gen heads) are build very well. Have had to do the tap trick a couple of times. Would love to get into the bigger stuff, but my garage would fill up quickly. Need to get a warehouse.
Thanks for your help...🎉I got it without damaging it 😊
Excellent !!! I learned a LOT from this video. I never thought to put rope in the cylinder. I have always had a hard time trying to keep it from spinning. Now I know.
Still, i'd try an impact wrench first. The sudden torque has a way of freeing those bolts before the mass of the rotor starts turning.
Thank you so much! I had no idea how to remove these.
Thank You James for the Detailed explanation of the Correct way to tap the Threads... Big Help for Me.. Carry On Sir....
For the bolt holding the rotor in place, i just usually use an air wrench. works every time.
Hi James, I usually use on Briggs a 7/16-20 and of course the matching grade 8 hex head bolt
Suggestions:
Rotor bolt - impact driver and hand hold the rotor.
Remove rotor from tapered shaft - after you cut threads use a sliding hammer.
Will give the sliding hammer a try. Usually use rope or a strap wrench on the flywheel to hold things still. (needed for reassembly). But if the engine is blown then no need for rope. And impact will be fine.
Works ! It was not that easy but : this is the best way. Thank you !
Thanks James I picked up a Powermate 5500-seized engine (free) and was wondering what the disassembly would entail and Wala the 1st was the best and very clear and concise and of course your helper improves the video 100 percent.
I've tried a couple methods to press the rotor off using the openings on the side toward the engine and an apparatus to press it off against the outer casing. After worring about putting too much force on those webs, I'm going to go this route. I didn't want to have to buy an M12 tap, but this method is really the best way to separate the two with the forces going through the strongest components directly toward separating that interface.
Also instead of a rod you can fill the shaft with water (get all the air out). Put teflon tape on the bolt threads to seal it and drive the bolt in to build pressure. It takes a couple attempts, but it will also very safely pop the rotor off the shaft.
Very informative and helpful. ...thank you
Have you more information about generator maintenance . Thanks .
Question I have two generators I picked up one was free it fell off a truck and that one on the backside where it starts and it basically has no compression spins it the other one is a Briggs like the silver one you’ve been working on in this video he said he ran it out of oil but yeah I don’t hear any clanking and I don’t see any external damage but thank you for this video it shows me how to pull the state or end off any advice would be great
Another way that can be easier is to thread a bolt into the crankshaft of the engine and hit it with a dead blow and the armature will fall right off. Usually that works unless it’s a stubborn armature.
Thanks will try it out
Thanks very much for thi very informative video. I'll have to get tapping. At least now I know. Great demo 👍
Thank You for information and advice
More information the better
Great video...!!!
Say James why not just use the rotor bolt? Take it out with your impact squirt some oil and put it back in with your impact trapping the oil 👍
The rotor bolt goes into the engine so this wouldn’t work
Question I have about generator replacement is, do have to get an exact replacement to swap? What things do you have to look for to get another one,
shaft size, engine size?
Very good exactly what I needed to know
Curious that you didn't try removing the bolt with an impact wrench first so that the inertia of the rotor would provide enough resistance to allow bolt removal. Or mabe you did try an impact wrench but it didn't work. Comment?
What a cool kid 👍
Helpful.. great job 👍
What size/length and tpi is the center stator bolt? Thx
great coils on rotor!
Impact wrench is my friend ?
I always use a 1/2 inch impact to take out the center bolt
I drain the oil from the engine and turn the whole generator upwards or straight up to disassemble
Hello, I'm very curious. Does that rotor have a permanent magnet. If there is no magnet, where is DC current given to the rings on the rotor. Greetings. I am from Turkey. Do you know Turkey.
I have a gen thats not supplied power can you help me troubleshoot this
Thank you ,very beatiful
I have a Storm Responder 5500 with a blown B/S. What size motor did you replace the original with?
Briggs runs a 10 HP motor. You need about 1 HP per every 750 watts.
valuable lession
Thank you very much
Nice work on the removal of that rotor. I have a small Wisconsin powered set from the ‘40’s that has thus far eluded my efforts at removing its armature. It should be noted in the case of your machine that the rotor is the field, not the armature. Rather the stator is the armature, ie where power conversion takes place.
Use an impact to remove the bolt
Good job!!
If is not have hole in armature how I remove
Hi James.
Thank you so much for your very educative videos. I am so impressed about your knowledge of many many generators. I haven't seen any of your videos on portable diesel generators. Do you have one? My second question is l need to replace the electrical board on my Duro Power DP 6500 RDS diesel generator. I believe the board is discontinue. Do you have in mind which generator board will fit and work with my generator. Thank you very much.
There are not many diesel generators in my area and do not have a video on one. Sorry, not able to help on the board.
Another well produced informative video. Around 12:40 you mention you have several rods you have accumulated to press the rotors off. Could you share the diameter and length of the rods in your set. I know you probably don't keep track of which one goes to which rotor but, it would help those of us trying this out for the first time. Thanks, and keep them coming! They're great.
I think 3/8” is what I used in this one. Not sure the length. Sometime I have to use water to push the rotor off because the rotor shaft either is too small or to large and the rod will push into the threads and damage them.
@@jcondon1 how did you use water?
Sorry I found this now . Thank you
how much does the rotor a stator weigh together ...im removing genset from boat 5K size gen...would it be worth removing rotor and stator to ease removal...gen set weighs 230 lbs
I would guess about 70 lbs. Seems like a lot of work to save a little on the weight.
@@jcondon1 i agree, thanks
Thanks.
Seems all the b/s stuff is different parts and generator units
Hello from iraq well done my greeting g
That did not sound good at the end. It worked but I'd probably crap my pants. I know it's not a torque wrench but what about 130 lb/ft? A lot of these small engines are in/lb specs
I have a Winco model that does not use a rod like this - the service manual says to remove the brushes, hold the stator and... hit the armature with a heavy hammer? If that doesn't work tap the core (do what? I was like). I need to get it off to get the crankcase open and replace the governor (only plastic part on this beast) because as you know it's kinda important to keep it at 3600 (runs at 60hz with 3kw load EXACTLY. Perfectly too. If a load clicks off it goes up to 75hz, 300V probably why it was free.
Any work on these Wincos? I bought a 4lb lead (softer than the brass) hammer for the job just in case.
Instead of the rope in the cylinder you can remove the starting rope (the whole starter) and hold the engine from the flywheel
Yes that works well. I have used a strap around the flywheel to hold it in place.
J keep the videos coming, I need you.
Steven McHenry thanks. Been making a bunch now that I am trapped at home.
How do you put it back on
I have a few videos that show that ua-cam.com/video/4PpQ2Liatzw/v-deo.html
ถอดออกมาแล้วขอดูแกนข้อเหวี่ยง.กับแกนโรเตอร์หน่อยครับว่ามันแบบใหน
James, looking to buy a new generator can you tell me what manufacturer makes a quality alternator?
Jim Tuit most of the ones I work on are 7-20 years old. Most look the same. Probably out of the same Chinese factory. Honda of coarse builds good stuff. The only others I have seen that look different an maybe better are the Briggs and Stratton storm responder (the one without the AVR). They are also branded under other names like power boss, craftsman etc. The wire gauge is much heavier. The only downside is most do not have a low oil sensor and you must check the oil at least daily in an extended outage and without the AVR voltage fluctuates depending on load but a simple design is better in my book. The Generac 10000 watts and above look made better then most, but I do not like their engines much and the electronic are overly complicated. Generac 8000 and below look like all the others. Also working on and 30 year old Winco now and the generator head looks really good quality. Not sure about the new ones. Besides that a plastic fuel tank is better. Metal ones to not last. Oil sensor and AVR are good things to have.
Hi there my name is Jordan. can I ask where you bought your puller from? I could really use it. many thanks. p.s love your videos
I believe I just got that at the local auto store. Also been using a gear puller recently (also from an auto store) which seems to work a little better.
Justamente lo que ocupaba...!
0:59 how to fix a faulty power supply
How much DG
You are very good I guess you can help me Plese in power generator technician job
Left handed thread
Sopar🤓👍
Hi friend how are you
WHEN YOU MAKE THE THREAD YOU INTRODUCE WATER INSIDE THE SHAFT AND WITH TEFLON INTO A SCREW WITH THE SAME MEASUREMENT YOU TAG IT AND THE ROTOR COMES OUT AVOIDING INSERTING THE IRON ROD, ALSO IT COMES OUT WITH VERY PRECISION
K.I.N.G.
Hit generator fan head with compressed air to spin..lol..throw away petro engine
1/3 of an inch. lol
ของผมถอดไม่ออกเลยใช้แม่แรงอัดยังออกเลย
I,m from pakistan....kidly wtapp
You're talk too much but less act...
Hello, I'm very curious. Does that rotor have a permanent magnet. If there is no magnet, where is DC current given to the rings on the rotor. Greetings. I am from Turkey. Do you know Turkey.