Shaker-style doors in MDF [video 405]
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2024
- This is a #beginners guide to making #shaker-style loose tenon and mock-panel doors in MDF.
There’s about a million ways (probably more) to make Shaker-style cabinet doors, and having tried most, if not all of them, I can honestly say that loose tenons and lots of glue is my favourite way to achieve repeatable results, quickly and cheaply. As for the easiest way - well that’s a mock-panel door, and in this video I show you how to make both.
This is a version of my first ever UA-cam video (link below) brought up to date and extended for the @Derral Eves #30daycreatorchallenge
Other videos featured:-
My first video, Shaker-style Panel Doors - • Shaker-style Panel Doo...
Simple sled - • How to make a router t...
Hand sanding pad - • Hand Sanding Pads [vid...
Veneer edgebanding - • Veneer Edgebanding #176
More doors, and why I don’t make them this way - • More on Doors - and wh...
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Used/featured in this video:-
Heavy duty groover - bit.ly/HD_Groover
Arcbor for above - bit.ly/Arbor_8
Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs (US:amzn.to/2sVaRBH)
Maxitek Storm D4 adhesive - bit.ly/StormD4PVA
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2P2c5nP (US:amzn.to/2LgIsye)
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool MFT - amzn.to/2x49HHE (US: amzn.to/2J25aKy)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Other useful gear…
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool CXS - amzn.to/2syMO8Z (US: amzn.to/2r0TZ7U)
Festool ETS 150/5 - amzn.to/2sapsq9 (US: amzn.to/2ssbZgq)
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Festool Granat abrasive - amzn.to/2A3c1vW (US: amzn.to/2gPAAUz)
Festool RTS 400 - amzn.to/2x6zGZW (US: amzn.to/2i84yXn)
Festool ETS 150/5 - amzn.to/2sapsq9 (US: amzn.to/2ssbZgq)
Festool CTL Sys - amzn.to/2sKa2t3 (US: amzn.to/2tCvVdZ)
Festool CTL SYS Bags - amzn.to/2G9eFVd (US: amzn.to/2GduBpo)
Trend Air Stealth Facemask - amzn.to/2zah0P6 (US: amzn.to/2T5ww6X)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
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Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2svT03N (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3)
Mirock square - etsy.me/2MC0RT - Навчання та стиль
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Just the video I was looking for! Excellently explained and kept it simple enough that I feel confident to do it myself! Thank you Peter!
Glad it was helpful! 👍
You good Sir with your genteel presentation are the Bob Ross of the wood workshop.
Golden oldie! 👍
Thanks Peter I'll check them out. Keep up the good work 😊😊
Nice quick way to do that. I must keep an eye out for MR MDF.
Brilliant!
I love shaker style. Thank you for these easy methods.
Thanks Frits! 👍
A master class in practicality. Thank You Peter.
Thanks! 👍👍
Quality video as always, Peter. I'll be using the tips you taught to make a cabinet in the next few weeks hopefully!!!
Thanks Sammy! 👍👍
Lovely as always. Thank you for sharing.
🇧🇷
Thank you! 👍👍
Great video; very informative, and fun to watch. My favourite UA-cam joinery channel, keep up the good work.
Thanks! 👍👍
These videos are so well produced, they're a joy to watch.
Thank you! 👍
Hi Peter
Thanks for your quick reply, I’m 75 years old going to build my first kitchen watching your vidios has inspired me to have a go thanks very much
Regards
John
I love the "simple sled" it looks pretty nifty. I may need to build one for my self. Great video!
Thanks! 👍👍
All for simplicity Peter, Great Stay Safe Mate !!!.
Thanks Brian!👍
Really enjoyed the video Peter thanks
Thanks 👍
Big thanks for these videos. Managed to make kitchen cabinets, media center and wardrobe on a budget using your videos.
That is awesome! Glad they helped! 👍
Well done Peter
Thank you! 👍
Its like watching a chef and getting hungry! I have no need of such doors but watching you, makes me want to make some. ???
Cheers Keith! 👍
Peter, thanks for sharing this technique for making doors for a novice.
Pleasure! 👍
Excellent video Peter - thanks 👍
Thanks Pat! 👍
Peter - I made a door for my sons house to close opening on side of their stairs, 1315mm high and 916mm wide. I made it from 18mm pine stiles & rails , with 9mm birch ply rebated inset panel. It had a sloped top rail - all joined with pocket screws & panel glued in. It warped!! ☹️☹️☹️
Do you think 22mm MDF stiles & rails, with maybe 9mm rebated MDF inset panel would be sturdy enough? I was concerned about 6mm panel being that large.
Appreciate your views?
Pat
@@pat1walls Hi Pat. That's pretty wide! 22mm MRMDF for the rails and stiles would be fine, and a 6mm panel would probably be OK too, but if I were making it I'd go for 9mm, I think - gives a bit more heft to a door that wide, especially with an angled top rail. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter - appreciate that! Will get some MDF sourced - there is only one place locally I know does 22mm! Will drop you a pic once sorted 👍
Enjoyed the updated video. Happily watch all the oldies remastered. Hodor 😂. Even watched “tall” the way through 😉
👍👍
I love the easy way shaker style doors. Also, I start to love using my new track saw that calls for an MFT top ;-)
Tomorrow I go to install the big wine rack (it's done finally) Have a nice weekend Peter
best wishes Tim
Thanks Tim! Hope the install goes well! 👍👍
very nice video.
Love these videos Peter I really am a student of yours. I am making fitted wardrobes in our home at the moment using techniques from your videos. Thank you for sharing. 😊
Thanks Karl! 👍👍
Your original shaker door vid , the first ever vid #001, was what got me hooked Pete.. and you've come a long say since then !
😎👍☘️🍺
Ha! Thanks Peter - and you’re still here! Amazing! 😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop ya'll hafta beat me away with a shtick.. 😂
😎👍☘🍺
Thanks for the great idea used this method but with a tablesaw instead of router made 30 of them and they all turned out perfect all your tips where bang on
I substituted a biscuit joiner for the router and cut the slots that way. Worked just as well
That tracksaw setup is awesome
Ya I totally want this whole thing and I've no place to put anything like this 😢
LEGEND
Just found your channel. Just in time...
I was very nearly going to buy a new kitchen - but I reckon I'll have a crack at making one first.
You explain things so clearly. Make it look really easy.
Thanks. Looking forward to crunching through your videos for a bit.
Thanks and welcome! Honestly, for a kitchen, unless you’re determined to make one, or want to use the build as an excuse to buy some tools, it’s something that I’d recommend you buy in, assuming you’re here in the UK. Kitchen cabinet sizes are standard, and widely available at prices you couldn’t hope to match if you were building your own. Personally I’d rather put my time & effort into the details, the doors and end panels, than the factory work of kitchen carcasses.
Whatever you decide, I hope it goes well. 👍👍
You should do radio you have a great voice. I can listen to you talk all day. Now that’s out of the way. Great video I always learn something new. Thanks.
Thank you! 👍👍
That's a neatly produced video
Thanks! 👍
Great video Peter! Extra points for the Heath Robinson reference!
Thanks Chris! 😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I had to Google "Heath Robinson" and discovered that he's your Rube Goldberg! It took until 3:44PM but I finally learned something new today!
My first Shaker-style project involved 20 doors (30 panels) in the Millard method - worked brilliantly. Thank you!
Fantastic - glad it helped! 👍
great stuff
Thanks! 👍
Hi Peter, Thanks so much for this video, it was really good and I especially like the simplicity and use of loose tenons. I will just need to get a groove cutter bit which I am going to need in the future anyway. Thanks again.
Great to hear, thanks! 👍
Just made my first door using this method. Tracksaw, bench mounted router and one of those big old Wealden bits! went really well considering it's my first ever shaker door. Got a few to make to finish off a big lockdown project. This is definitely the way to go for quality finish. Next time I will wait for a cooler day as the glue going a bit quick! Bit stressful!!! Another fine video with lots of good advice. Thanks
Great to hear, thanks! 👍👍
Fully agree with gluing the panel. It's mad that so many people think you can't glue MDF or plywood panels, it absolutely fine even if the rails and styles are form solid wood. The panel only needs to float if its solid wood.
Exactly! 👍👍
Why does the panel need to float if it's solid Wood?
Smashing! You looked under a bit of pressure in your previous video...good to see you back to normal again! 👍
Thanks! ha - previous video was from a job back in February, and yes, the heat was on to get that job done! 👍
I'm impressed. I have lived in houses with Shaker style doors, a long time ago (my 45 year old son was 2 or 3 years old.) That house was a very old house, probably turn of the last century or older.
Thanks, Jim MacLaughlin, Halifax, NS Canada
Thanks! 👍
I make mine with 9mm strips planted onto 18mm backer, headless pinner and glue. I usually plane a small bevel on the inside edges of the stiles and the inside and ends of the rails to get the "genuine" shaker look.
Hi Peter! Ready and waiting.
Thanks Martin - you and me both! 👍
Peter, you often manage to achieve the Goldilocks rule... not to heavy, not too light, just right. Well done and thanks for your help.
Thanks Stephen! 👍
Another top tip
Thanks Ray!
Hodor! 😆😆hahahha😆😆
Well that is a pretty quick and easy method.
Looks like you're set up to crank these out rather quickly. 👌🏾
Cheers for sharing, mate. 👍🏾
Cheers Bill! Yes, I've made so many of these I could probably do them in my sleep! 👍😂
@@10MinuteWorkshop
Ha, wouldn't that be a waking nightmare, all these doors, and none will let me out!😳
oh damn, they're just the doors for the new cabinet build coming up...😏😆
🤣🤣🤣🤣
I made all my kitchen cabinet doors and larger drawer fronts like this about 15 years ago...still going strong, just re-painted a couple of times when my wife wanted to freshen things up and change colour.
Yep, it's a great way to do them! 👍
Such a quality resource. I’m baffled why you don’t have a million subscribers!
Spread the word.
Thanks! 👍👍
I was literally thinking the same thing! I don't get it. ;)
Good job Mr Peter greeting to you , I'm from Iraq
Thank you Ali. Best wishes from London! 👍
I really admire your scripting and editing. You are very watchable.
Thank you! 👍👍
I actually have all the equipment and I still make MDF doors the "easiest" way. I use barge contact cement to adhere the 1/4 material down to the 1/2 material. Once the edge is sanded, I've never needed to fill in any gaps around the edge. You definitely might need to if you only use two buckets to clamp down your glue up. Both methods work just fine
Peter, thank you very much for all of your videos, but especially this one. It gave me the confidence to build a cabinet with four shaker doors and it turned out great. I am pretty sure that what I did in four weekends you could have done in four hours, but no matter! Thank you again!
That’s great to hear Roger, thanks for letting me know - much appreciated. 👍👍
I’ve made a few mock shaker doors recently, worked out really well in the end, had a few issues with the hinges, but euro hinges solved any problems. I think in future I may try your first method though.
Honestly, the ‘faker shaker’ works well, but you do need to be careful with the edges, especially with hinges; euro hinges are good 👌👍
Well done. I have done Shaker doors all the ways you've shown and more. I really really like the extra durability of the thick back door. But I know it's honestly not needed lol. If a client breaks a door then they did something wrong and they can pay for it to be fixed. I'm honestly not sure which I will use long term going forward.
I also really like using a stopped dado for the inset panel and then using a domino. Less clean up work. No trimming needed. Straight to sanding without using a filler. And the faces are a little more flat and accurate. But honestly they are all great methods of making doors.
Thanks! Funny, I find the ‘stopped groove then Domino’ to be more work, but whatever works for you, right? As long as you get a strong flat door out of it - that’s the right size - then that’s what counts! 👍👍
I used mitre glue, obviously got to be 100% in right place as it sticks instantly
Just adding to the comment on quality of video produced. I’m just surprised that some TV diy show haven’t snapped you up yet Peter. You would make a really good presenter.👍🏻😎
Thanks Mark! Very kind of you to say so! 🙌👍
Watching this on repeat as I’m planning a fairly hefty fitted office project - something’s bugging me - those rails and styles are 80mm, not 18 😉 But thank you Peter, this is hugely appreciated
'Watch tall the way'? That's what we'd say in Yorkshire after we've seen it!
Hi, love the calm, unflappable delivery! Ever considered being the bearer of terrible news on U.K. Tv at about 5.00 pm? It would be very reassuring! I haven't seen a track saw track in that flip down right angle to a fence configuration before. Could that be done with a Marita track?
Hi and thanks! Let's just say I'm open to offers, lol! The hinged rail comes as standard on the Festool MFT - see videos #182 and #183 for more details - but AFAIK it remains a Festool patent. You can buy the spare parts to make your own, but they are pricey. I've never tried the Makita track, but it should fit as they follow the standard Festool-pattern pretty closely. 👍 👍
I built some cupboards around the chimney about 5 years ago, I put of making the doors as it was too much effort. I was going to just slap on some 18mm sheets of painted MDF and call it 'modern design' but the more I see this design, the simpler they look to make. I don't have my router with me, but I could probably get away with cutting the slot on the table saw in a few passes
Also, I set UA-cam to remind me when the Premiere was about to start and it ended coming through an hour and a half after it ended! I think next time I need to set a reminder on my phone as well!
Yes, UA-cam reminders can be a bit flakey! 👍
Hey Peter can you start another channel where you read bed time stories?
It would definitely help me sleep and possibly "calm" me throughout the next day.
I'm 38 years old.
Oh and great video by the way, I'm going to have a go at these doors for my kitchen.
Cheers.
Haha, thanks! 👍👍
Currently knocking up some MDF Shaker style doors but I’m just pinning on the shaker rails on to a panel door. Proper faker shaker.
It works! 👍
You might find they will bow in time, usually after painting
I made some recently and stuck 6mm to 18mm
brendan ford This one is just for my own house so if it does I won’t have the embarrassment of returning to a customers property to make good. Reason I’ve gone this way with is it the height of the door is 1900 so I wanted as much strength in it as possible so I thought of doing it this way. If they bow then I can change them for a panel made in the Style of Peters but I’ve nothing to lose really.
I bought the Axcaliber tongue and groove router bits from Axminster Tools a while ago... they're a nightmare to line up so I've gone with the tennon method too. So much easier!
Yep, been there! 👍
I use tongue and groove bits (not Axminster) or shaker bits and find that once you have the setting dialled in, if you measure the router bit height with a Trend Digital Depth Gauge (or similar) and record it for next time it's repeatable and pretty quick to set up - I always do a test piece or two for the final precise adjustment.
I found this video very valuable, thank you. Do you recommend making the cabinet or the doors first?
Hi Peter just found your channel & subbed you Amazing projects you are super talented ,
I and buying my first plunge /track saw so i have watched all your uploads on them thanks ,i have an old powerline plunge router and was thinking of putting it into a router table do you have any videos on making one as i would like to try to make on many thanks ,
take care stay safe ,
kind regards ,
clive.
Hi Clive and welcome. I'll be replacing my router bench before too long, so keep your eyes out for that one. 👍
Hi Peter I was watching this video as I'm planning to do a kitchen for my Daughter in a shaker door style and I was wondering if you have a video of Make interior shaker door thank you it has been beneficial
Great video Peter. I’m planning to make some 1950mm high wardrobe doors.
Do you think the MRMDF would be strong enough using loose tenon method? I’m was planning on using 18mm for rails and stiles, 6mm for panel.
Kind regards
Hi Peter, thanks for this re-made episode. Finally on the verge of putting your guidance into practice!
I have the Festool OF1010 router. If I had it mounted in a table, home made, do you think it would have enough ‘grunt’ to use the groover you linked to?
Perhaps a question I could/should pose to Wealdon!?
Thanks Dave
Hi Dave. It’s a big bit to swing, but if anything can the the OF1010 would - you’d need an 8mm arbor and collet for it though, I think. Wealden do a smaller groover, gives a ~13mm groove - lots of guys O know use that one and it works fine. HTH. P👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop That’s great, thanks for your thoughts 👍
Rgds Dave
Hi, any reason you couldn't do the Grooves with just a router I.e not on a router table? I was thinking of doing a few rails in a row with some sacrificial bits on the end for support. Thanks in advance for your support andvgreat channel.
It’s do-able but *much* easier / safer to use a table.
Great video - thanks. I’m about to start on some (painted) kitchen cabinet doors, and was planning on using MDF for the panels, and poplar for the rails and stiles. Could you please comment on the pros and cons of this approach, versus the full-MDF approach. Thanks in advance for your response.
Thanks! Poplar / tulipwood is a popular choice for door rails and stiles as it’s pretty stable, and obviously a harder material than MDF so likely to take knocks better - not that I’ve had any issues with MR MDF tbh. Not sure if I’d glue in the panel or not - the MDF won’t move, but the poplar may - so probably one for you to assess your environment for heat & moisture. No problem in principle with the plan though. 👍👍
Firstly...love the videos Peter, you’ve actually made me think about leaving kitchens and bathrooms and working solely on joiner projects.....just a quick question, your first method where you router a groove and the glue it floating tenons at the ends, how do you do 2 or more panel doors? Do you glue it small loose tenons for the middle rails or do you not route those sections?
Thanks! Yes, for doors with a mid-rail I glue in a small loose tenon. Not sure if it makes a difference tbh, but J always feel happier doing it. 👍👍
Really informative, thank you! You mentioned a router table is the safest way to cut the grooves- how else could you do it? I am thinking of investing in a table saw and I am wondering if I could use that. I’m also wondering if would you use the same method for building the panel door if you were using hardwood instead of MDF?
Thanks! It’s possible to use the same grooving but freehand in a router, but I wouldn’t recommend it as it’s for experienced router users only. And yes it would be possible to make the grooves with a table saw, but using an unguarded blade is a real no-no here in the UK - it’s a 5-figure fine in a commercial workshop, so I couldn’t recommend it.
Great Video sir excellent,love your system of cutting mdf boards. Could
you Pls explain about it..
Hi and thanks! It’s an off-the-shelf Festool MFT or Multi-function table & the hinged rail comes as standard. See videos #182 and #183 for more details. 👍 Video 182 ua-cam.com/video/0V-p5F7SjO4/v-deo.html
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you sir
Very informative. I remember most of the information from your previous videos. In this one you don't cover the difficulty of fitting hinges to the "easy" door, which is what would put me off that method.
Thanks! Yes, the loose-tenon method is still my preferred way - and the only way I've made these type of doors over the last 15 years or so - but the mock-panel method does produce a working door and many won't see the difference between them. My concerns about hinges remain the same, though as I say in this video, a 15mm backer with 6mm 'facing strips' produces a door with a bit more heft, and co-incidentally, satisfies my original concerns about hinges. 👍
Just depends on the hinge you're using. I've never had problems with hinges using the easy method
Enjoyed that, thanks...
Different to the mortice and tennons I usually do on timber doors.
Can you tell me how you deal with the cut edges on the rails and stiles when painting this style of MDF door as usually the MDF has a tendency to fur up a bit after painting and sanding the cut edges when they are right next to the installed (or stuck on) back panel is super tricky....
You could, as you mention, edge bad the outer exposed MDF edges..but what can we do for the long edges right next to the panel?
Thanks! Video out next week about this exact subject. Short version; use good quality MR (moisture resistant) MDF to start with as it’s much less prone to furring up. 👌👍
Thanks for the great video! I have a quick question; is there any reason for the choice of MDF vs solid wood for the frame of the door? As far as I can see the only reason to use solid wood in the frame (or pannel) would be if you are not painting the finished door, but was wondering if using a solid wood frame would provide any structural or other benefits?
Thanks! If the doors are going to be subject to some heavy-handed usage (toddlers, teenagers) then sometimes solid timber will take the knocks better, but otherwise, no, for a painted finish I'd always go with MRMDF personally. 👍
Hi Peter, thank you for these. Apart from safety could you do a stopped grove then put a domino/dowel/biscuit on the corners to connect the rails and styles?
Hi Matthew. Yes, you could do; I always found it easier just to continue the groove up the door tbh, but whatever works! 👍👍
I make cabinet doors using exactly the loose tenon technique described and it's great. The only difference I normally have is I use beaded pine cladding for the panel. It's extra work but I like the look. Quick question, are you using an extension on your router so you can do above table bit changes? If so, is it any good and which brand did you go for?
Thanks! No, no extension on this one - it’s the old Triton TRA001, has enough reach to get the collet all the way through. 👍👍
Hi Peter
In a video of yours you mentioned that you were going to do a router series. I’ve been searching for it - I want to make the loose tenon version of these doors but don’t have a router table …. Or a router! If you’re planning on doing a router series that would be awesome. If not - would you mind saying how you would router the grooves without a router table, which bit … how do do it safely etc. I’m planning on getting a basic 1/4 inch router. Cheers
Thanks! Haven’t managed but yet - it is still planned, just other things getting in the way. Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend trying to use a grooving bit handheld - any slight wobble and you’d mess up the groove. A table doesn’t have to bell anything fancy - most of my grooving was dine with a basic router bolted to the underside of a bench. 👍👍
Hi Peter, great video as always. What hinges would you recommend using with these doors? Cheers
I'd go for Euro-style concealed hinges - see video 348 - ua-cam.com/video/-Y6MEQlFEhQ/v-deo.html 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Cheers Peter.
Hi Peter. Great videos on your channel. Can you tell me if you recommend any particular glue for framed panel doors/ Thanks.
Thanks Rod! Honestly, I’ve used all kinds of glue over the years, mostly fast-grab PVA, and I’ve never found a scrap of difference between them. I use a little quick-set PU sometimes, but PVA works great for most things! 👍👍
Is it important to make a groove larger tham 6 mm to insert the panel ? Thanks Peter to all the things you share, it is amazing. 👍🏻
Thanks! It makes it easier, yes. With my first doors I used a 6mm bit and it was a very tight fit and an uncomfortable glue-up! 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks a lot Peter
Thank You. Excellent Video as always, MRMDF, surely once it has been painted preferably exterior paint it will become moisture resistant? obviously, I am not intending to use the MDF outside just indoors,I am looking at the cost between the two one MRMDF and one cheaper becomes made into MRMDF?
Thanks.
MRMDF is a much better quality board - it has a much denser core, and is essentially formaldehyde free due to the binding agents used. It’s not really about the moisture resistance. 👍👍
I’ve made 3 out of 6 doors using the loose tenon method, so thank you Peter! Due to variations in thickness (and perhaps a few home workshop tolerance issues…) a few of the rail/stile joints have just a very slight lip - 0.5mm or less - but I’d really like them to be invisible when painted.
Any tips? Will just a good sand do the trick, or do I need to fill first, or attack with electric planer etc? Cheers
If it’s only 0.5mm or so then sanding should be OK, just be careful not to be too aggressive with the sander as it’s easy to hollow out the face at the join. Material thicknesses can vary, especially between batches or if bought at different times, so it’s good practice to try and cut the rails and stiles from the same sheet, if possible. 👍👍
Great video as with all on your channel. Any advise on stopping burning when routing in the slots. Tried cha find speeds and taking smaller cuts but can’t seem to stop the burning?
Thanks! Usually a blunt cutter, or too fast a feed rate? What material is it - MR MDF?
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes using MR MDF. It’s a brand new cutter and router setup so would hope that it isn’t a blunt cutter but will check it out. Very new to woodworking myself. Thanks for the quick reply.
Hi Peter, I am an electronics engineer by trade but your channel has inspired me to get into making furniture ! I have made a shaker style dressing table with draws and bed side cabinets mostly from 18mm MR MDF painted white. The the built in wardrobes are in place but awaiting 4 large doors approximately 700 x 2200mm. I intend to use the floating tenant method . Would you recommend using 9mm panels rather than for this size door and 3 or 4 euro hinges? Any help would be much appreciated
Hi Mike! Wow, 700mm is a pretty wide door! Biggest I've done is 600 x 2200 with 22/6mm and it was fine. A 9mm panel would certainly give a bit more heft to it. I'd also use a deeper bottom rail, and a mid-rail. I'd have to do the maths on it, but I'd expect 3 hinges to be fine. FYI 18mm MRMDF is 15kg/sq m. Each hinge can take ~5Kg max. Work out the weights pro-rata, and see how many hinges you need. 4 might just be safest anyway! 👍
Amazing, just found the channel and love it! Where can I buy MR MDF? I can't find it at any DIY store 😭
Thanks & welcome! Some branches of Wickes and B&Q stock MRMDF, otherwise I’d just go to mdfdirect.co.uk for cut boards, or MDFsheets.co.uk for full boards. HTH. P
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you so much! Hugely appreciated 👍
Hi Peter. I recently subscribed and enjoying your content, very informative and well produced videos. Would there be any problems making these doors from plywood?
Hi Peter, thanks, and welcome! The issue you’d have with plywoood is finishing the edges - easy enough to edgeband though. 👍👍
Hi Peter, thanks for the great video.
I'm thinking of making doors for my van conversion..would you say MDF would be ok or should I use a plywood?
Regards
Steve
If it's likely to get damp at all then I'd say MRMDF at a minimum; it's a much better board for not much more money. 👍
I watched your first video on how to make them at begining of year and went out and bought a router table to make some but waiting till better weather as I need to make them outside. Quick question what router bit do you use and how deep is the groove you make, the bit I have doesn't make them very deep cheers 👍
Thanks! The bit I use is from Wealden tool - Heavy duty groover - bit.ly/HD_Groover and you’ll need an arcbor - bit.ly/Arbor_8
It’s nearing guided, and makes a 22mm deep groove. 👍👍
Quality video guide Peter. Why is the grove not in the centre of the rails and styles. Whats the benefit of offset @ 6.35mm, thanks ?
I think the 6.35mm was in reference to the router bit. It's 1/4 inch rather than 6mm, giving a slightly larger groove (6.35mm) than the thickness of the 6mm panel for glue, or stashing drugs or something.
Yep, as Rico says, 1/4" or 6.35mm is the thickness of the grooving bit - makes it easier to fit the 6mm panel. You can put the panel where you want, of course, but I like an offset because a centred panel in a 22mm thick rail/stile gives an 8mm thick rebate, which looks a bit heavy to me. It also makes it very easy to identify the face side if you're working quickly or haven't marked the pieces up. 👍
I saw a trick recently that I remember the old guys using when I was starting out. You referred to "swimmy" joints, when making your faux panel doors. Have you tried shaking a little salt on the surface? It'll add a little grab, but melt away quickly.
Thanks, yes - I’ve heard that trick; never tried it as I never seem to have salt in the workshop! Must give it a try next time.👍👍
Very useful video - going to try the loose tenon appraoch myself for some wardrobe doors! Seems much easier than using the special rail and stile router cutters that I've seen, as you don't need to be so precise with the depth/height adjustment on the router.
Question for you: do you think this would work with veneered MDF? How would you suggest cutting doing the groove to take the panel? Before or after ironing on some edging? I've not used iron on edging before, so wondering if it would stay in tact when using a slot cutter. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Peter!
Thanks! I’ve never tried it with veneered board - might be an interesting video! It would probably be a lot of work - I think you’d have to edgeband the inside edges of the rails and stiles, cut the groove through a zero-clearance insert, and cut back (or cut carefully while applying it) the edgebanding where the rails abutt the stiles. Then edgeband the outside edge. So not trivial, but technically possible, I think! 🤷♂️👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hmmm.... Thanks for those thoughts - very helpful. I've never used a zero clearence fence, so this could be a good project to try it on. As someone who really hates painting, I really hope I can get it to work! I wonder if a straight bit would give a cleaner result, holding the rails and stiles flat against the fence rather than using a slot cutter? I have a 1/4" slot cutter, but not a 1/4" straight bit, so I'll try the slot first, and if that fails dismally then I'll give the stright cutter a stab. And if that fails, I guess I'll have to suck it up and get the paint brushes out! Thanks again -- long time "silent" fan of your channel - have found your advice, tips and suggestions really helpful and they've given me the confidence to try all sorts of things that I would never have dreamt of doing before.
Great video, can you recommend a router bit can't find one with the same depth of cut as yours
Thanks! There are links in the video description to everything used or featured 👍👍 Heavy duty groover - bit.ly/HD_Groover Arcbor for above - bit.ly/Arbor_8
Hi Peter wealden tools is out of stock of the cutter you recommend and won't have any for a month do you know of any others?
Great video Peter. Quick question if I may? I see from the links you're using the Wealden Groover. I'm guessing you're using the 6.35mm cutter? What size bearing guides are you using? I suppose it comes down to ratios of stiles / rails to panel but curious what size you use and if you change them? Cheers Greg
Hi Greg, and thanks! I use whatever bearing comes with the arbor tbh - never changed it. From memory it gives a ~21.5mm deep groove or thereabouts; if I need a shallower fierce I use the fence. 👍👍
Hey Pete. Was wondering what the max depth the domino 500 plunges too with 8or 10mm tenons??? You da best pal👍👍
Hiya. Max depth is 28mm on the DF500, 70mm on the DF700 👍
Great video. I’ve subscribed. I didn’t think PVA alone would hold the trim. I need to make two large wardrobe doors and I’ll try this. Can I ask why you trim to size after gluing and not just make it the right size to start with, or is it just impossible to ever get it bang on that way?
Trimming back to size after the glue-up just ensures that the edges are as clean as possible prior to painting. 👍
What’s the reason for cutting the grove just below centre? Love the videos!
On a 22mm rail/stile it leaves quite a large lip to the panel; making one side 6/7mm just looks better, and also leaves the other side deeper so that when clients say ' you know I think I'd prefer a 'Victorian' panel door...' you can just flip it over and add some moulding. 👍
Great video. Once quick question, could I use MR MDF outside? My dad wants a little outdoor cabinet making and I don't have the tools to plane/thickness pine or whatever. Many thanks.
Ps it will be painted
Thanks! No, MR MDF is an interior board, intended for environments that have higher moisture content than usual eg kitchens and bathrooms. You can get exterior grade MDF (Tricoya) but it’s expensive and not widely available. If I couldn’t use redwood/Scots pine, then an exterior WBP plywood would be my choice. HTH. P
You can get external MDF. Not MR. Or tricoya. External MDF has to be painted on all exposed edges. And it would be fine
Great video, curious why you prefer loose tennon over a domino. They must be a bit of a pain when you come to paint?
Thanks! If you're running a groove to take the panel anyway, it's just a very quick way to do it. If you want to use dominos, then you have to stop the groove either end of the stiles, and depending on the depth of the rails, and the depth of the groove, you may end up not being able to reference off the pins/paddles for the dominos. Painting the loose-tenon doors is easy, and if there's any slight gappiness, it's easily filled. 👍👍