More on Doors - and why I don't make them this way...
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- Hi there. In this video I explain why I stopped making cabinet doors by planting mock-panelling onto a backing board. TLDR; it's a lot more work than it first seems to do it well, and hinges were always problematic. Enjoy!
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10/10. Perfectly explained. Step by step through the subtle but crucial drawbacks that would likely only become apparent after you gained some experience of making them this way. Been dipping into this channel for ages. Now doing a 'Netflix' style binge from the start to see what I've missed. Absolute gold. Paul Sellers, Peter Millard, Robin Clevett, and a good dollop of Charlie DIYte and you can figure out anything!
I love the "why" part. That's what makes it worthwhile for me. Thank you.
+mozismobile Thanks!
It's simple there is a right way to do things and a wrong way. This video shows that Mr.Millard is a very skilled and next level carpenter. The fact that these subtle nuances bother him is a great thing. It's about really caring for what you are doing and doing it to the fullest. "Integrity" is key. Great job sir!
+Nesley Heiney Thanks! 👍
Well said! Couldn't agree more.
Bravo
That's many years of experience condensed in 14 min. As usual the solution is economical, reliable and quick to make Thanks for sharing.
Peter you are correct to make the doos in the five pice way you do. All you reasons yo give are correct. Personally I prefer a tenon to a floating tenon. But the main reason to make the doors the way you do is if you glue the MDF on the face the door becomes unbalanced and can bow unless you balance it on the back
2:43 whilst I’m sure you’re absolutely right that the best way to make shaker doors is the way you did it, surely people are more likely to have a veneer Pinner or similar than a routing table!
Routing tables are quite cheap for a DIY version, or make your own easy enough
I have always done shaker doors the mock panelling way for painted MDF and then for real wood I use the traditional method with a veneered MDF panel and real wood rails and styles. To stop the things moving about during the glue up I just add a few grains of fine sand onto the glued face before putting them together which bites into the surface as they are clamped preventing any movement. For a large door on a wardrobe for instance the traditional method is by far the best though, even for painted MDF.
Thanks. You stopped me making another set of mistakes. Thanks. Ian
We built our full kitchen like this, Ikea carcasses and doors like this, we didn't pin them just glued and painted, rebated euro hinges, they're still here 20 years later and I'm just about to repaint them. They are heavy but I like them like that.
It was a good question posed by a keen observer.....explanation provided by you demonstrating the 'why' made this a 'worth my while' UA-cam watch! Thank you for sharing. Cheers
Thank you! 👍👍
I do this door quite a lot 12mm ultralight for the panel and 9mm cut at 15 degrees for the stile rail element. I make them 1/2" big then saw them down eliminating the seam. I glue one stile on each with spring clamps, then the other 3 parts . Makes a great door.
This kind of video really shows why experience matters... none of this would have even occurred to me
Thanks! 👍
The lazy man's door, a lot of unnecessary work for a low quality end product. An excellent video! Thanks
I really like your approach to explaining why you do certain things in an order you consider best. Very nice perspective of how certain approaches lead to unforseen problems if using some hardware. I really like the way you addrrss this to your audience(such as myself). I really like ykur chanel.
Thank you! 👍
Another great video Peter, answering a commonly debated question as to why you do a thing a certain way. As always well explained and demonstrated
Love how you explain the logic of your reasoning.
If a DIYer is prepared to do it themselves, make mistakes and work in a less efficient manner to get to the route to victory they can, as long as it is at their own expense and not a customers expense if done by a tradesman.
You are very clear in your videos. The 15mm thick sheet material and nailing from the front panel and having to fill make sense too not much 15mm timber out there in the UK in the grand scheme. Also more holes to fill on the front and potential for more work to sand down and finish again.
Thanks for the effort you go to, all in the effort or logical and efficient working methods.
Thumbs up.
Spot on, very informative. I've made doors for wardrobes and cupboards pretty much every way I could think over the last 15 years but until recently after watching your videos never considered loose tenons before, although in hindsight it makes perfect sense. I have gone down the route of pining and glueing 6mm mdf, also rebating 18mm mdf to fit a 12mm panel to the back to form a 6mm panel shaker style door but the time it takes to make and the unavoidable join lines to the back of the door, overtime with use, look an eyesore as well as being extremely time consuming. Ive got a few doors to make for a built in wardrobe so I'm giving the shaker style loose tenon style a go, albeit with a 1/2" router on the work bench (yet to invest in a router table). Many thanks for sharing your expertise with us, whole heartedly appreciated.
Thanks Paddy!Like yourself, I've made doors every way possible, and the loose tenon approach is far and away the fastest and easiest way that I've done it. My router's just slung under a bench with a home-made removable fence btw - doesn't need to be anything fancy to be effective.👍
I really appreciated this video! I’m going to be making doors for a cabinet for my van so this will help me greatly.
I was always taught by my father a very wise man. “If you’re going to do a job do it right or don’t do it at all.” Those were his words. I’ve stuck by it all my 40 years of being a woodworker/carpenter/contractor and Life in General... Good Video, Greg
Thanks Greg, 👍👍
Wow!
Thank you very much for this eye-opener video.
Pleasure 👍👍
I am just about to tackle two cupboard doors using 12 mm MDF, and using the method you don’t recommend. I enjoyed your presentation, and I agree it’s a lot of work for an inferior finish. It’s just not practical for me to invest in a router, or a drill press for that matter. It’s going to be for myself,but here’s hoping it looks ok when the doors are fitted.
It’ll be fine. As I say in this vid I’ve made doors every way imaginable and never had a failure. But for me in a production environment the router/loose tenon method wins. BTW there’s a more recent version of this video here - Two Easy Doors - ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html 👍👍
Hi Peter I have watch a lot of doors being made as I am starting on my Owen kitchen soon and the doors you make seem so much simpler and it makes sense love watching 10 minute workshop great job👍👍👍👍
Thanks Brian! 👍
Clearly a talented joiner , love your videos , I was very lucky serving my time where I did I have seen this very thing argued about on the floor of a workshop and the traditional ie jointed piece always held out to be stronger and once you have your tools set up its very simple and efficient to run the material and assemble
Thanks! 👍
All great points, Peter. And also, much more satisfying to do the job 'properly'. Presently doing my own wardrobes using your loose tenon method, with great results. Thanks...
Stephen O Sullivan Thanks! Look forward to seeing your video of your wardrobes 😄👍
How about if you trying to use a contact cement instead.Simple jig in the middle will help placing all the rails on the right spot.In that case you don’t need to use any mechanical fixtures and you can achieve very strong joint with hardly visible seams.One of the benefit is very fast production time.I think you can try it ,works for me all the time.
Well done Peter. I didn't know anyone else built doors like this. I do a slight variant of the construction process here. But the same end result... Except I like to use a hardwood face on the doors. A little more durability on the edges. Just gotta make sure you use stable wood so the shrinkage doesn't affect the end result on that outer edge.
I have built cabinet doors many ways as well. And I still use many of those methods depending on the job. surprisingly, traditional cope and stick is my least common method. My preferred for Shaker is the style you showed here and dont prefer. My second common door is a stopped dado for the panel and using a domino... I use this mainly for stained or clear coated doors. If for some reason I can't use either of those 2 methods then I'll see if I can use your preferred method, If all else fails then I will do to traditional cope and stick.
I've actually restored a few traditional cope and stick furniture pieces that have failed, and I also have some cope and stick cabinet doors in my house that have failed way too easily. I'm not a huge fan of it for those reasons. The risk of the traditional cope and stick and your preferred method are the same. When that dado goes all the way through the door stiles, it gets easier to break even though you get more glue surface. The edges that extend over the cope or the floating tenon in your case can be more easily broken when force is applied to that area. Especially if you are using a partial frame on edge banded cabinetry and you slam the door without soft close hinges.
Keeping the integrity of that stile's full structure on the end grain seems to be the strongest way to keep the door frame solid.... Or just using a solid panel like you are discussing in this video lol
Just made your style door. Excellent 👍👍👍
Thanks Peter. Always good to see a pattern of thought. Makes understanding for us beginners all the easier.
+From this to that 👍
hi peter your videos are very well made just like ur work. Love being informed by the video you make. thanks 😆😆
Matt Robertson Thanks!
You can make that type of door on a table saw. Use the blade as a router alternative, I made hundreds of doors on a cheap nutool table saw, even made fielded panels on it.
Great video Peter! Explains how and why cutting corners isn't such a good idea!
Thanks David! 👍
Sprinkle a little household salt on the glue before you assemble and clamp, it stops the movement!
Great video! Thumbs up! I appreciate the well thought out information, brother. However, I have to disagree with something. The video calls the first method the 'easy option' and some of the comments even call it 'lazy', but that isn't always the case. A lot of people, especially DIY-ers, don't have router tables or other methods for making grooves (or tongue and grooves, which are better for styles and rails, imo), so they work elsewhere to make up for it.
Don't get me wrong, if someone has the ability to make true shaker style doors (especially if they're a professional), and not just the facade, then that will always be the best option. However, assuming that someone makes a facade just because it's 'easy' isn't always correct.
Hi, and thanks for taking the time to comment. As I say in the first video, and repeat here in this one, the loose tenon approach is the easy option *compared to other methods of jointing e.g. mortice & tenon* . And again, as I say in that video and this, I've made thousands of doors over the course of my 20-odd years as a cabinetmaker, using every possible method of construction, and this video simply spells out why I stopped making them using the 'planted-on' frame. I know lots of people who have fitted furniture businesses who make doors in this mock-panel method, often with a 9mm 'frame' over a 12mm backer to give a solid 21mm door - but they finish them with an edgebander that costs as much as a small car - something that's definitely beyond the reach of most DIY enthusiasts.
I've never stated that this method is wrong, I've simply explained why I don't do them like this any more, and that in my opinion the loose-tenon method is the easiest way to make panelled doors for cabinets because it requires no special fixings other than a couple of clamps.. Yes IMO a router in a table is the safest way to do the groove - we have *very* strict health & safety laws in the UK regarding eg unguarded tablesaw blades - but there are other ways, as I'm sure you're aware. Cheers, Peter
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you very much for taking the time to respond, brother. Much appreciated! I agree, if you're a professional or even a woodworking enthusiast with the right equipment, then loose tenons (for repeatability and decreased errors) or integral tenons (if you're like me) are the better approach. I just don't agree that facades are made simply because they're easy, at least not always. Sometimes they're done this way because it's more accessible.
All these years after this video was made and I'm embarking on a full kitchen build, starting from refurbishment of 100 year old hardwood floors. This video is a godsend and I'll be building the mock Victorian doors the exact way that you don't do them any more! Drilling the hinge body pilot holes 3mm into the 9mm "stiles" should fix the push-out problem. Thank you!
There’s a more recent version of this video where I edgeband the door; works well. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you, Peter, I'll definitely check it out. I'm going to break all the rules with mock shaker, Victorian or "heritage" beading to the inside of "rails" and "stiles" and country v-groove MDF panels off the shelf (or just plain if they clash with the beading). Will practice on direct replacement doors for my ultra-budget Kaboodle kitchen (flat pack from our Bunnings chain) at home before tackling the new big kitchen in my old house. If it's a disaster, I'll just chuck the old doors back on. Cheers from Australia and thanks for sharing your knowledge, even if it's stuff like this you just don't like to do any more.
Ha, ha ....all the things that frustrated me when I made my daughters L shaped wardrobe bed for a very small box room, where mentioned in this video.
The doors and bed, all still are going strong some 10 years later, but the hinge holes have had a few matchsticks pushed in to get the flush hinge holes to bite again. MDF sizes and flush hinges just dont match as you stated!
I cut all my panels with a hand saw, as i didnt have the cash for routers or chop saw, but my eyes and skills were good, so the end result was, in my humble opinion good.
Just catching up with all your videos and loving the channel, so lapping up the tips. Thanks.
Thanks Jason! Really pleased to hear the videos help! 👍👍
Thank you, Peter.
I've got some 25mm mdf to make some doors to cover an electrical unit. Client wants a similar moulding to match their oak door panels. Basically shaker doors with mitred moulding.
Just found the video. Very informative. Thank you
Can't beat a 10mm Dowelmax in 18mm green MDF for the frame, with a 6mm routed (stopped) panel groove. It's very simple, accurate and glues up nice and square.
Appreciate the review and explanation on door construction. You have helped me decide how I'm making my next set of doors. Thanks.
Adam Regan Thanks!
I make doors this way sometimes, and I apply edge banding all the way around to cover the seems. I always use soft close hidden hinges. Also, during the glue up, I find it is easiest for me to use two straight edges at 90 degrees so that I can line up the panel and the styles and rails getting a perfect edge. I do use a very small amount of wood glue for a long term hold, and I use a two part c a glue for an instant hold, I do not use clamps at all, the hold is pretty solid after only 3 seconds or so, Again, that is another reason I use the two straight edges to line it up on placement, because you really only have a second to slide it around before it grabs on and won't let go. I enjoy your videos, and tips. Hello from Kentucky!
Thanks Brian! Older vid this one - there's a much more recent one - Two Easy Doors - ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html - where I also demo the edgebanding trick. 👍
I seem to be watching all of your older content now Peter 📺
😂👍👍
Peter - Thanks, just about to start this journey, so watching this has helped my decision. The other factor that goes against the mock paneling system is 'construction in balance', particularly seen with MDF. To all intents, one side is different from the other side, whilst this doesn't matter with a conventionally made door ,when laminated like the mock door, it can cause this in balance. Whether it's the glue or just structure but this method can be prone to bowing over time. You could apply the same panels on the backside and glue them on, but by the time you have done this then you might well have made a properly constructed door. Thanks for the videos, I often check you out before running off, leveraging knowledge and information is so powerful.
Thanks! 👌
Thank you for explaining so well and putting effort to show the downside of the options.
I was wondering and looking for answers for the technique to use for the doors and your one video answered all.
Thank you a ton.
My pleasure, and thanks for taking the time to comment! Good to hear these older videos are still providing useful info. 👍👍
Legends are forever!
Thanks Peter and thanks Rachel. Very informative.
Simon Hopkins Thanks!
Great video. When I made some alcove cupboards, I sized them so I could get exactly 4 doors, 2 surfaces and the trims from a single sheet of 2.4 x 1.2 x 22mm. So I went with the other option of routing out the inner part of the shaker doors to a depth of 5mm. Super, super messy and it needs quite a bit of sanding, but it looks great and doesn't suffer from weak hinges. Ideally I would have done it properly but it would have meant spending more on material.
Extremely helpful video.
I CNC machine also I cut a relief on the back and I making the front so the door doesn’t warp.
The traditional way is definitely the better way to do it, although on price I always use 18mm backs and 6/9 mm fronts. Use heavy set Blum insert hinges. Never had a problem, just need to sand the edges well.
Old vid. Try the more recent one - #405, Shaker panel doors; ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yeah great video, that how I normally make them on a customers driveway 😂. Only difference I use a 1.6 roundover router bit around all the edges I've even user two glues , normal PVA and mitre bond to fix the rails down. Good if you are in a rush to finish.
Thanks again Peter, very informative and well presented, I'm learning a lot from your videos please keep them coming
Christopher Reid My pleasure, thanks for watching! Lots more to come, stay tuned... 😄
I think there is a place for this type of construction when one has not got a large complement of tools....
As for the rails/stiles sliding on the backing panel from the slippery glue ?
Add a salt cellar to your tool kit, sprinkle on whilst applying the glue & no more sliding !
U could also drill the hinge screw position (if u are on the joint) & glue in a couple 6mm wooden dowels...
😎
Needs to put glue on door and face piece then it won't part !
another problem with this method arises when theres a difference in moisture content in the components, the door will curl when it all reaches the same moisture content. So yes always use mrmdf don't be tempted by the cheaper stuff in the diy stores. I love your vdeos btw and I've been chippying for 35 years!!!
Old vid, but thanks! 👌👍
Apprentice joiner doing something similar for a homer soon, thanks a lot big help
Pleasure! Glad to hear it’s been some help! 👍👍
Thanks for video . I made some wardrobes doors that are 2.1 metres high using 12 mm backer with 6 mm stiles I just glued them no pins and used European hinges they’ve been great . I used 4 hinges using a jig similar to the Kreg jig . I know not as good as loose tenon method which Is why I’m going to do my Kitchen doors that way
Cheers Mark. I did an updated version of this and the shaker-style door video recently (#405, Two Easy Doors) and honestly, I struggled to see the difference between the gamer-shaker edges that were left and the bones that were edgebanded, so nothing wrong with the overall technique - hinge issues aside - but I do prefer the loose-tenon method. 👍👍
Great explanation Peter thank you
Glad it was helpful, thanks! 👍
I've made plenty of door like this 3/8 glued to 3 /8 and there ok . I oversize them 1/16 on every side and then trim it off on my table saw. along with spring clamps and pin nails my side seems come out pretty seemless. The place I really like to use this concept is on end paneling on islands . Or on exposed ends of cabinets I can cover my screws and give the exposed ends a false panel look with having to make a whole door by just adding 3/8 mdf to the sides.
Nice video Peter. Many thanks
Andy M My pleasure, thank you!
Another great video. I had a go at making a shaker style bath panel using the backing board method and was really disappointed in the results for many of the reasons you describe: tricky glue-up, filling and issues with the screws for the ball catches pushing the 6mm strip away. Version 2 was routed took the same amount of time and the results were way better. I think also for kitchens and bathrooms get moisture-proof flexibility built in.
Keep the videos coming. K.
+Karl 👍
+Karl 👍
Hi Peter. Another good video. Thank you. A suggestion for someone doing the door that way and worried and putting the hinges at the seam. I recently repaired a large door made that way also made of mdf for a friend. And I used a domino but cut the slot so I could glue in the domino sideways. I used wood glue but you could also use epoxy. I left the domino protruding just a bit and hand planed it flush. It turned out great. It was a large wardrobe door and I added an extra cup/euro hinge to the door as they were concerned about how heavy the door was. Hope this helps someone out there.
Ron
Ron H Thanks! I've done that trick with dowels in the past, well worth remembering 👍
I'm sold. And now I have my super sketchy Aldi router table and 'off the bootsale' routers I shall book my slot at AnE before I make a start :)
+Godshole 😂👍
Hi peter, the main reason to not make shaker doors like that. If you glue the thin strip to just one side of the board, it will most definitely cause the door to twist/ curl when the glue dries. You could eliminate that problem by glueing both sides, but just double the amount of work.
I can't normally criticise your logic but all the complications and problems you encounter can be eliminated simply by using plentiful 18mm mdd with readily available 4mm plant-on strips and a bench sander or electric plane sorts out the edges. Having said that I still thoroughly enjoyed the video. Different strokes etc.
This is a pretty old video, and to be fair it was in response to a specific question about laying 6mm over 12mm, but I do take your point, as long as you’re happy with a 4mm panel rebate. There’s a more recent video covering this approach and the loose-tenon shaker-style door here btw - ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html - and I also edgeband the ‘faker-shaker’ to see if it makes a difference. 👍👍
I've made the Shaker style doors for various projects. The rails and stiles were joined with mortise and tenon joints. Your doors are simpler but I liked the look as they were being left exposed. Your would be good for me if they were being painted in which case I would do iy your way. Cheers.
I made a bunch of Shaker fakers for my own kitchen cabinets knowing it was the cheap and dirty way of doing it, but I didn't realize it actually wasn't that much cheaper than real Shaker style doors (and it was considerably dirtier!)
Great video
As the last comment, you know if it is properly made or not, if you want a reputation for making crap stuff then fine, go ahead. In my opinion you are perfectly correct doing it properly - how can you tell someone it is shaker when it is just nailed together.
Thank you! 👍👍
I know like you said that it make a weakness when drilling the hole for the hinge. But did you had a problem with that in the past. Let say that everything is really well bond together
You could use a two part glue that instantly bonds. You don't need nails or clamps.
I'm still trying to find out for us amateurs if using regular hinges and a magnet on facing and door us ok😳
MDF edges are not ideal for screwing into, which you would have to do if you were using butt or flush hinges.
Thanks👍
Great explanation. What about shaker doors with angled rails ie like under stair cupboard doors
Thanks. Angled doors are the same - I cover the process in the ‘my last build’ videos, full playlist here: My last build & Install - bit.ly/MyLastBuild
Great video thanks for posting!
+Skullmonkey456 👍
Great video,thanks,
I would like to try that style of door but I don't have a router table. Can this be done with a normal router if you setup a fence for the depth...? a video on this would be good for the likes of us with basic gear........... Great video.....!
Thanks! I really wouldn’t recommend using a large grooving bit like this in a hand-held router I’m afraid, unless you can fit a sub-base to it to help with the stability. 👍👍
Very Nice explanation. Thank you. And btw almost a 1000 subscribers. Thats great.
Harry Wever Thanks! And yes, creeping towards the 1000 subs landmark 👍😀
Hi Peter just found your channel. Love your content buddy great work
Thanks! Lots of vids under the bridge since this one. 😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop haha ye. but its often the old ones you stumble across. You gained a new sub from me
I’ve used MDF 16mm panel and 3mm build up on edge.
I guess for people like myself, if you dont have a bad ass workshop, you'll have to put the work in and extra time to do it this way.
What about 18mm + 3mm?
It's a pretty skinny rebate, but it'll work, sure. As I said in the video, I've made doors every way there is possible, the loose tenon system is better if you have the tools, but I've made plenty of doors this way without any failures. You just need to be a but more careful, is all.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks a bunch.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Peter, I think he/she means 18mm backer & 3mm stiles & rails glued on...😕
theandroids... there is no black or white 100% correct answer here, make one up & judge for yourself if it is to YOUR taste, thats what matters ... 😎
Regarding the screws in the door-side... a coating of 2part epoxy & short screws to act as "clamps" & I think you'd be good-to-go...
You gotta work with what tools u have .... & if the woodworking bug bites ya it's time to start the COLLECTION !!! That will never end btw... 😂
Peter, as always above and beyond! Many thanks - you covered it, but with your previous style its structurally solid as an 'object' (esp when glued up) - even though its 'only' in MDF vs a layered fascia stack, which is only secured with the glue/pins... Just my thoughts - and thanks :)
Thomas Kitchin Thank you! P
I disagree with nothing in this video but it’s worth remembering that there are of course millions of mock shaker doors on kitchen cabinets all round the world and the majority of them are 18mm which is pretty much the industry standard for kitchens.
Old vid - there’s a more recent version here:- Two Easy Doors - ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html 👍👍
Do they make board already pre groved from supplier . It seems like a massive time saver and all need to do is grove up ends and fill,plug the tops and bottoms joint
Dear Peter - even without a router table, I would think that with a table saw making the groves would end up easier then glueing large surfaces. But - it depends on your experience and skills with the tools I guess?
Many people also don't own a table-saw; I worked wood for a living for ~14 years before I bought one - doesn't see much use tbh. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop I had a Festool mobile table saw, Basis 1A or what was it called. Many years ago I sold it to a friend and I bought a Mafell Erika 85. That was quite an investment for me, but worth every penny as it appears. I guess it is just what you get used to as well. Apart from that, I do make my MFT tops, using the UJK Parf Guide since a while now - which made me use the MFT in another way - more destructive I would say - but that improved my efficiency as well. And inspired by your video's I did purchase a MFT bench dogs fence - which I do have to learn to use yet.
Thank you for this demonstration.
The main point you’ve missed is that the rails and stiles method gives you identical finish on both sides,which for me is more professional
Concealed hinges are my only option on mdf, flush hinges in the mdf edge are never going to hold.
I don't feel so bad about the piles of tools etc in my little shop.
Quick one, why do you suggest 24mm thick (18+6) is too much to euro hinges. The Blum hinge guide refers to this thickness.
Older vid, and with the hinges I was using back then 24mm was the max thickness they'd cope with, so you're already right on the limit. Current hinges (Blum 71b3550) are OK up to 26mm I think, maybe 28?? 🤷♂️I posted a more up-to-date door video posted recently btw, here - ua-cam.com/video/jwGvYsvdCg4/v-deo.html - and FWIW I'd still go for 15+6 or 12+9 for preference. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks for quick response, I've actually already made them and I started to worry but will certainly use the loose tenon method next time, the other advantage I'm not sure you have mentioned in the videos iv just watched is it's a cheaper material cost.
@@trouty00 No problem - happened to be doing my correspondence! Ah, OK, no you'll be fine; re costs, yes, though it depends on how many you're making, but yes, that's true. 22mm can be a bit tricky to get hold of though sometimes, so you need to be a little flexible. 👍
I like your work pants, mine are similar. What brand? Are there knee pads?
In the video description, as always! TuffStuff Extreme 700 trousers - amzn.to/2oqeBpq
Hey Peter,
Great video as always. I’m getting ready to make shaker doors and was wondering, have you ever done 12mm panel and 22mm stails?
I have 22mm stails and don’t know which panel to choose.
What is your reveal at the front?
Aren’t they to flimsy (22/6)?
Thanks for your help, much appreciate.
Hi Peter. Old vid, but thanks! No, I don't think I've ever done a 22/12 door. No reason not to, just never found the need. On bigger doors I tend to go 22/9, but 22/6 is fine for most. I tend to keep to a 7mm rebate, 6mm panel, 9mm inner reveal, as it's easy to flip it around and add a moulding if the client decides to go with a 'Victorian' look instead. But whatever works for you - no hard and fast rules here. 👍👍
Peter Millard thanks so much for your help and advise, much appreciate. Keep a great videos coming, always enjoy watching them. 😉
The doors look way better when the panel is in the middle routed in nice and strong. I just need to figure out how to make a router table now.
A router table is one of the most simple projects you can make; it's literally screwing your router to a relatively flat board with a hole in it for the bit. Do a search on youtube, google, reddit, etc. You'll find hundreds of simple designs. it need not be complex.
His Peter, I'm a relatively new subscriber to your channel and also to Gosforth handyman, and your combined podcast (trying to binge listen on the daily commute!) And I'm interested to know why some of the MDF you use is brown faced and some green faced? What's the difference if you don't mind explaining please? Thanks Colin,
Hi Colin & welcome. It’s all MR MDF, the thinner sheets (
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter, keep up the addictive work/videos!
i think you are using the wrong hinges the way you are placing them would only work if the door is flush mount. which is rare for cabinets
Most kitchen doors are 18mm with euro style hinges .
Hi Peter , I once made some doors approximately 2 mtrs High by 500 mm wide. Using the backing board method you don't do anymore. These developed a slight curve later on. Any ideas to combat this? Thanks. Great work pal.
Possible make two doors for the opening. 1/4' or 1/8 gap between them, join them together on the back side so they open as one . I saw this done before.
Peter.
Great video, very helpful. Hope you can assist me with an issue I may have. I see you use 18mm MDF for the cupboard frames and 22mm for the doors. I have done the same for my frames but ordered 24mm for the doors. Will this cause a problem with the BLUM 7LB3550 hinges or a problem with the doors clashing with adjacent doors when open?
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Hi Graeme.I’m pretty sure those hinges are OK with doors up to 26mm thick, though as you say, you might find you need to make the gap between them slightly wider just to make sure they don’t clip each other - though the difference between 22mm and 24mm will be very slight tbh - just something to be aware of. HTH P. 👍👍
Hi Peter,
Thanks for the great video, just found your channel the other day and subscribed 😀
Would you recommend using a FESTOOL domino as an alternative to the loose tennons?
Thanks,
Louis
Godfrey's Joinery Hi and thanks! Domino's a great tool - I use mine a lot - and I have used dominos to join the rail and stiles together, but honestly I find it easier just to run the groove all the way up the stile and use a loose tenon. If you use a domino, then you have to stop the groove before the end of the stile, and because I use a large/deep grooving bit it takes quite a chunk of the available space. But yes, dominos a good option if you want to keep the top surface of the door unbroken. 👍
Peter Millard thanks for the reply, I'll give it a go this way as I always like trying new techniques and report back.
Cheers,
Louis
Hi Peter, great video and definitely going to be the way forward for me making this type of door. I have recently had a problem on a wardrobe project where I did it the cheating way and the pin holes and joints between the stuck on pieces are cracking over the course of a few months after spraying. In short I have got to replace the doors and will be doing it your way, now I have done the previous doors in 18mm thick. For a door 2200x500 do you think 18mm doing it your way would have any problems or should I be doing it out of 22mm?
Hi Damien, and thanks! To be fair, you can make the 'planted on' technique work, but you need to have a lot of clamps (so no pinholes) and an edgebander, which rules out most folks! With a door that size I'd always go for 22mm (or 25mm if you can't get 22) I switched to using 22mm because I had issues with a door of that size bowing, whereas I've never had the problem with doors in 22mm. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshopThat's great, thanks Peter
Concealed cabinet hinges all the way. 😁
But why not making the vice versa situation, 6mm backing and 12mm panels? That way any molding can be done directly on the mdf panels with a simple trim router, and screws and would grab better into the panel itself
Edit: or maybe 9mm backing + 9mm panels....
Try it, see how it works out.
@@10MinuteWorkshop actually, the project's already started and the sheets prepared. Seeing this video, as well as the other one you made about the mdf doors, before making my first set of doors provided some encouragement, though. Thank you for many good advices!
Hi Peter
I have a large wardrobe in my bedroom (just finished) and need four 2300x800 sliding doors for it. My wife hates the flimsy thin metal ones you can buy so I thought about making them. Could I use the slot & panel technique for this?? The main concern I have is warping, would doors this big warp and what sort of thickness material would you recommend?
Thanks for the great video's, really useful.
Simon
Hi. Wow, 2300 x 800 is a pretty hefty door! The advantage of a groove and panel is that it's be lighter of course, and presumably hanging from a track, with just a guide-rail or slot of some kind at the base?? Funnily enough I've just quoted to replace a set of sliding doors around that size, and they were just 18mm, so I think 22mm thick rails and stiles would be fine, possibly with deeper rails; check what thickness doors the track can handle - that may be a limiting factor.
With larger doors I tend to have a deeper (~150mm-ish) bottom rail, but you may need that at the top as well for visual 'balance'. Haven't made one that large myself, I think I'd be inclined to make one as a test first. Good luck! P
why not make 45 degree mitered and grooved rails and styles and skip the tenon?