That’s an awesome comparison, I’m looking at buying a 1290 SDR for the track soon and these are definitely going to be a first addition for the bike. Great videos, keep up the good work
Excellent work yet again. Just goes to show, the big companies put out the shiny shiny, and the magpies will buy it, even if you can see straight off that it looks weak 😂. Looking forward to your next video. Keep up the good work buddy 👍
I will admit I am and I have been the typical magpie. Guilty as charged. If not for my longing for adjustable offset triples I may have remained a magpie. But now I have been saved :-)
Usually the motive in industry going to a forged part vs. the usual cast part is a reduction of weight. In other words, less material is required to do the same job because the forged material is forged, the microscopic metal grains are aligned in a structural way whereas cast material is much more random. It's like a well designed bridge lattice, it's super strong depending on how the lattice is arranged. Forged clamps, wheels, pistons, rods, whatever. Yes you can use the same volume of material as the former cast part, but you'll simply be adding a lot of strength without any weight reduction benefit.
I stumbled on this video completely by mistake, but your presentation of the data, as well as the rigorous methods of testing, made me a sub. I have a Gen1 Duke (2015), and I haven't found this type of information specific to the Beast anywhere else. Thank you!
So glad my efforts might help you. That’s a fantastic machine. Check out the series I did on the gens 1&2. Lots of helpful points. Feel free to reach out anytime I’m an open book. Enjoy and stay safe brother
I commented on those new clamps on your last video and got very excited when I spotted them, I have your +20 fitted and they are amazing, also have power parts clamps fitted and they are defintly a bling product. Do you have a ball park figure for the clamps? All as mentioned I have the +20 fitted but soon I will be changing the rear shock and was wondering if you would sell the arm seperatly or would I have to purchase the complete set up? Keep up the good work and keep it stiff and ridgid.
Omg keep it stiff and rigid is my new mantra. Many thanks. Ok the Superlink comes with its own “triangles”. They are very specifically shaped for just that special control arm. Which, by the way, is almost done being fabricated. Totally new design which now will accommodate OEM exhaust systems as well as race systems. Email me off Superduked.com. Return customers get discounts
Hey GoGo!! Ive had sleepless nights for the past 8 months waiting for these to be finished ever since you told me they were in the pipeline...... roll on with the release, I need all the help I can get with my track SDR
Great to see you back with more awesome information Go Go. Super appreciate all your effort and information sharing. I'm sooo looking forward to knocking the top off a beer and absorbing this! I have to admit, I was tempted by the PP triple clamps for my Gen2, however, decided it was overkill for the tight mountainous spray-seal surfaces it spends 98% of its life on. Thank you!
Thanks Motobreno. I felt bad while editing, it kept being too long. I cut and I cut and I wanted to cut some more, but in the end there’s too much potential value so your solution is far better. Beer
@@superduked33 That was most enjoyable Eric! Thats my kinda shed!! - I believe that the types of people that solve engineering problems themselves appreciate that facts, quality data and analysis must consume time. Conveying them to an audience, doubly so. I do not believe that anybody who is interested in that process and in this topic, was not engaged or lost interest. If they clicked away through impatience then they are not “your people”. (“our people?”) 🏍
Hi Eric, this makes me think that you are going to reduce the offset of 2-4mm to gain the trail and reduce the wheelbase to load the front more. Possibly reducing a bit of ride height in the back too since the anti-squat is now plenty? That is going to be very interesting, cause I do believe the gen.3 is screwed in the front as I commented in another post. They moved the front end further ahead (Wich was already not enough loaded in gen 1-2) and made a overall excessive wheelbase compared to the swingarm length. The triple clamp may fix it all. Looking forward to see your outcomes
I added 2mm of trail with the Superclamp. Interestingly, and I can hardly wait for your particular analysis on this my friend, I also recently added several mm to my swingarm length by changing to 16/43/116 gearing and chain. Going into the weekend I feared the longer wheelbase would slow the bike down. Make it heavier to steer, slower roll speed through turns, harder to transition from full lean left to full lean right. But it didn’t. In fact I was faster. So much faster that I set my PB lap time on a 1290 SDR with this swingarm length and 30mm offset rather than the stock 32. In fact I enjoyed riding the bike so much like this that I was actually sad leaving the racetrack Sunday night. I don’t remember ever feeling this way after three days racing on a Sunday night. Brilliance
Thanks for your patience Eric, you know I can't be short with the answers. My bad. The effects of the wheelbase alone might be difficult to feel because it is difficult to isolate them from the more evident other effects generated by the typical adjustments leading to the wheelbase change. In order to do it (isolate its effect) one should cut the bike frame (if any anymore) exactly in the COG and make it shorter or longer in that exact point, keeping COG, swingarm length and angle, rake and trail, the same. Once the bike is build, the wheelbase is somehow given and you change it as a side effect of other most needed modifications. In your case, by reducing the clamp offset you reduced the wheelbase but mostly you shortened the distance of the front wheel from the COG, putting more load to the tyre. Same you did on the COG shift by extending the swingarm further back. Overall you increased the load on the front tyre leading to a better grip. This is what our bike needs mostly, different would be for other bikes. You are getting also a better feeling from the new triple clamp rigidity leading to a higher confidence and possibly higher apex approaching speed. The wheelbase alone affects the stress on the front tyre, with a longer wheelbase bike needing more steering angle to ride a given turn. It is no different from a truck or a bus turning a switchback vs. a shorter vehicle. This is related to the "yaw speed" of the bike around a vertical axis and expresses the capacity to close narrow lines with less steering inputs/angles (and so tyre stress). It has to be felt after reaching the full lean and after releasing the brakes, as the speed or the effort with which the bike closes the lines and reaches the apex. Better felt in long radius, constant gas, negative banked turns. This is to be distinguished from the flick ability of the bike which is related to the "rolling speed" around a horizontal axes, and expresses the effort it takes to lean the bike, to go side to side (but in these transitions the bike is not fully turning yet) The latter affected by COG height, trail, tyres width and very evident in each own riding feeling. My personal experience with (old) ducatis and Aprilias approaching a turn was "sh** I'am too late and too fast" and immediately after "sh** I could have entered this turn faster" On the KTM was instead "I m going to break the laws of the phisics entering this turn" and immediately after "oh God I'm running wide" Fortunately we found the way to change it by turning the bike's geometry upside-down. Why don't you shorten the offset even more, to the point where the gain with the steering (shorter wheelbase and higher tyre load) balances the Lost in agility (longer trail)? That's going to be interesting, even though your current values (100mm trail, about 24,5 rake I guess) are in the ballpark of the best performing hyper naked in the market. Still the tuono and the Triumph have a few mm longer trail and shorter wheelbase, so maybe shortening the offset to 28mm might still be advantageous?
Yes. I have been filming an install / use / offset triple clamp explanation video since Tuesday of last week. Feels like I am trying to set a new record for how many attempts it takes to make one f'ing video. I keep thinking I am done and then my people tell me I need to do better. WTF
I would be very much interested in the Superclamp for my Super duke purely just as an OEM replacement that supports the steering lock etc (no need for adjustment at my ability). This would be for no other reason I think it looks amazing.
I have a pretty much stock 21 Gen3 SDR and have been watching a lot of your videos. My first super naked after riding mostly 1000cc sportbikes (S1000RR and R1) and to me, there is just something that feels off about the front end of the SDR. I feel the front really lacks stability and is extremely twitchy when turning and is unpredictable. I've been trying to figure out a way to improve it and I'd heard lowering the forks a couple mm could help with this. Wondered if you had any thoughts? Interested in the clamp but all the way in the UK so might be a challenge with postage. Anyways, appreciate all the effort with the videos - keep them coming!
I recently bought a set of the KTM triples.... , so , I will use them for weight saving until your triples are available .... Got your full linkage fitted and running the TTX shock , I seen yours is still sporting one too bro .
I miss my MUPO because I loved (the idea at least) of having low and high speed adjustment. And Ohlins TTX doesn’t roll like that, which in theory mostly has me bummed. But in reality the bike is faster now and I have zero complaints about the TTX’s ability to control the spring. I have been able to click my way past all issues so far. Very happy
@@superduked33 Well you are out there on the track , riding the tits off that bike , so good enough for me you like it GoGo . I will be looking out for your triples for sale , cheers mate .
Eric - Great scientific approach to this. Quick question - Do you think the PowerParts clamps, given they flex more than the stock, were engineered to do that? To give more feel persay and to be complimentary to the stiffness of the frame? Or just that - jewelry? Now that the Gen 3 frame is meant to be the stiffest...and now your clamps which are amazingly stiff (and I want a set for my Gen 2), do you think that then transfers that "flex" energy to the fork legs...tires...etc?
Excellent questions Miles. So glad you asked because I have had this exact conversation several times since filming this. I'll give you my gut response first: Superbike seats. What characteristic do they have that I benefit from the most? No mushy padding acting as a buffer between the road and my butt. Because that padding cuts down on my feel. I think about triples in a similar way. When leaned over, our forks don't compress from bumps the same way they do when straight up and down - because the force is now hitting them at an angle. So our forks flex a bit, as they also compress. Seems scary on paper but it works out fine in reality. There was a brief era that Ohlins Superbike forks were oval shaped, influenced by Rossi, for this exact reason. So they would flex when leaned over, but not while braking. Nowhere in there are triple clamps or flexing mentioned. In fact when you think about it, they used to sell fork braces to help triple clamps keep the forks even more aligned, not less. So I hear what you are considering. I have considered it too. But in the end I choose no flex and here is why; Torsional flex, like when you are both braking AND bending the bike into a turn. THAT is the point, to me, where I want the lest amount of flex, the most amount of accurate feedback, and on top of both of those things I want my front tire to keep aimed in the direction that I need it to. Instead, with triples that flex, those two forks do not stay true. Do not stay on the same plane. And when the PP triples, according to what our tests suggested, are under lateral stress - they do flex. They do twist. The result of that twist means higher in the fork travel the front wheel is aimed left, but lower in the fork travel the front wheel might be closer to straight. And up and down and left and right on a bumpy road we go through turns like chickens with no heads. Screw that. Give me two forks operating on the same plane all day every day of the week. ...But if that logic doesn't hit a nerve, try this other way of considering this exact scenario in a different way. Lap times. Laguna Seca AHRMA 2022, same bike, same tires, same ride heights and links, same everything - except one thing. In 22 I ran KTM's Power Parts Triple Clamps. I rode my heart out that weekend, won some races, the best lap I turned was a low 1:32. 2023 Laguna Seca AHRMA I ran my prototype triple clams that I now affectionately call the "Superclamp". I rode my heart out this weekend too - I ran several 1:29s. ...I also lost the front this past June on the fist lap of a restart where I was not able to mount warmers because me and one other racer were stopped out there on track, waiting to be let back in, when everyone else was back in the pits on warmers. So I took the holeshot, jammed through the first two turns which were both lefts. But when I threw it into the fist right hander, a 200 degree off-camber turn with bumps throughout, I lost the front. And for the first time, for me anyway, when I lost the front I did not panic. It felt predictable, if felt controllable. So I stayed in it, kept my composure, and drifted that front all the way through the meat of that turn. I am not that good. I do not push front tires like that. Usually when I lose the front its an emergency. But this day I pushed the front all the way through, like i've done it a million times in the past. And I know in my heart why I was able to. It was the Superclamp. It was having exacting information to understand and to respond to, instead of delaying that information by bending something through it's range to the point where finally it snaps.. Instead nothing snapped. No emergency. No rebuilding motorcycles due to crashing. Instead I went on to win that race which ended up being one of my best of the season up until then.
Thats what I thought.. I searched for ages to find out the dif in offset betwen the oem and powerparts.. Could not find any convincing info on benefits to the pp clamps
The word you're really looking for is compliance. The powerparts clamps are more compliant compared to the standard ones. You should ask KTM tech support to comment to give their thoughts on it. I suspect that the added compliance is where that "feel" people talk about comes from.
I appreciate that thinking. My experience is very different. I’ve raced on the PP clamps for years. Several sets on three different SDRs. For me the bit at the end of the video, the rubber band analogy, which I probably should have started the video with because I bet only eleven people will ever make it to the end of this video to see - THAT is the biggest difference between the feel and the performance of the PP clamp vs a stiffer more rigid clamp. That most critical point of corner entry, where still dragging the brakes while turning in, I suspect the more rigid clamp shines the most. At least it does for me. That’s where my bikes used to suddenly fall where now it communicates better, earlier, and clearer. It’s a big boost to my confidence. But I agree with you, I am confident that flex does play a beneficial roll in chassis feel and performance. I think the arbitrary element of the conversation that is most limiting here is establishing a middle ground. What exactly is the point where too little flex becomes too much flex? Where is that tipping point? For me, now especially, after doing this work and filming, my feeling is the PP clamps live a little too far in the flex world. The Superclamp feels closer to the middle ground between too much and too little. Fascinating conversation and science. Thanks for sharing your opinion mrnobody
@superduked4507 Great insights thank you. I've been reading a book about motorcycle suspension set up by Gustavo Alvaro (Technical Training Specialist at Kawasaki Motors N.V) so far I have understood that the SDR sits in a fairly unique scenario for suspension geometry tuning because of its trellis frame and the fact the engine is now a stress member. I will finish the book and wait for your feedback on the email I sent via the website, I expect the answers may generate more questions but it would be great to have a starting point if such a thing exists.
Great video and very educational. Your approach to racing and tuning deserves some respect, but I have a question, why SuperDuke for racing? I feel like a proper superbike would do a better job at beating competition, as SDR was built for hooliganism on the street and flat out fun on track let’s say, but not necessarily lap times. I did 30 track days, mostly in COTA aboard modified Panigale V4S and that thing made the job almost too easy. I literally never been passed on that bike in advanced group in COTA, except by Kyle Wyman.. For the street my choice is Gen 3 SDR all day any day.
Great questions deserve great answers.. If it wasn't for the SDR I would no longer be racing. Over 3 decades at this racing thing, and always with the "proper" bikes. Got boring. Winning is kind of a lonely thing. Almost selfish at times. SDRs make racing extra challenging for me. For a long time I couldn't win at all. I failed so many times in so many different ways. But trying to get something to do something it wasn't designed to do has created something in me where nothing used to exist. I've never learned so much, never analyzed things so intensely, never had to be this creative in order to get a bike to go better, faster, and with more control. If I was racing an R1 right now, I wouldn't be. My current SDR is the most rewarding and enjoyable motorcycle I have ever raced.
That’s awesome. I get it. I tend to find similar things motivating for myself. This “build” process is major source of joy. 2020 Gen 3 SDR was my first KTM and it is my favorite “street” bike to date. I typically buy one new bike per year, but I struggle to find something that can eclipse it for this specific purpose. I will be buying 2023 SDGT as a long-distance add-on in a couple of weeks hopefully. I am worried about it’s engine tune though and lack of aftermarket solutions in that area , I tried and disliked 2022 1290 SAS and sold it after 6000 miles. It had to do with engine feel and tune. Same LC8, totally different feel. SDR with full Akra is sublime IMO and if GT can be at least a little bit close I will be over the moon.
@@TheSuperpod This is not an advertisement I promise. But there is some added element to this bike now for me that has evolved into something I did not see coming. I am a carpenter. Always my approach to building things, changing things, improving things has been wood based if I could make it, or metal based if I could buy it. Always. Until this Gen3 came along, specifically with the link based rear suspension. I knew enough about links from so many years racing other bikes, so I was over the moon excited when I learned the Gen3 had a link. ....But nobody made links for it. Not the first year, not the second year. Two years in and here I am facing that same metal-based building challenge for me - I can't buy it so I can't have it. Then for the first time in my life I considered building in metal. I bought an old CNC knee mill, I bought software, and I went to work learning and experimenting and testing. Other racers that I used to beat on my Gen2 regularly, but now lost to regularly on my "better" Gen3, came over to my pit that first year and said, "man you're really working out there, but you lost something with the new bike haven't you.." ...Boy did that leave a mark. Because they were right. Guys I used to pass around the outside of double apex turns now would pass me around the outside of the same turns. I couldn't do a thing about it. I couldn't even tell exactly what was wrong. I took it personally of course, I doubted my ability, I thought maybe I'd lost my edge. I kept working in the background, machining different links, testing links, I was even lucky enough to use World Superdike chassis software to help design the new links (after begging the developer to measure a Gen3 and add the motorcycle to his data base). And then finally I hit on something. My first new link was a success. It wasn't night vs day difference, it was a process that finally now was moving in a better direction. I kept at it. Kept experimenting, kept testing new ideas, kept fabricating new shapes inspired by old ideas I used on other race bikes like Ducati's great 749R, Suzuki's GSXR 1k, the original 990 Superduke R. Today I regularly pass those guys again, around the outside while riding a bike that does exactly what I want it to do, exactly when I want it to. Now my Gen3 SDR is not only a great, fun, well known KTM 1290 Superduke - but it is "my" 1290 Superduke. And depending on where and how I set it up, its the only one on the world like it. So winning on a bike that I helped make that good, is more satisfying than any bike I have ever won on before. The feeling is almost impossible to explain. And now starting this small business and sharing my parts with a world of other guys like you who were in the same perplexing situation that I was in, but didn't know why.... and getting emails back after they try the parts and they're so excited they can barely finish the email, that is even more unexplainable. Thanks for contributing @TheSuperpod.
at 36:00 minutes in the video, I want to see if a fork brace will improve the numbers generated by the weight....or not. The triple clamp you have designed is incredible and I'm going to get one but I want an { orange front fork brace ) LOL, evaluate performance on the track. Like you were saying that smooth area or fluidity going exactly where you point it ? Im puzzled and why, why, why is a great question. Go Go I hope you try it just for shits and giggles to see if it makes a difference. You know Choking up on the Bat {smaller lever } ? maC
Hi Eric this was such an enjoyable video to watch seeing you and Gerry banter really special. Ah the Physics behind the art and science of motorcycle geometry + candid humour doesn't get any better most excellent!!! SUPER DUKE GOOD:]
That makes me happy to hear Mark. Some tell me I need to make videos shorter, which means cut things like banter out. But I just can’t. Screw it. Glad you hung in there my friend
Very little, unfortunately. 30mm rise in the back only adds 3-4kg on the front axle. Measured with two scales under the two wheels. That's why the rise of the ride height in the back is "mandatory" for a good front end feeling as well as anti-squat of the back. My 2 c
Erixlast6020, in my experience lowering the front has had very little impact on bike feel up front. I know, it’s frustrating and makes no sense, but that’s been my experience and feel. Adding height to the rear is where it’s at. And in doing that you also benefit in other ways not just trail. Lots of related changes almost all of which are positives (except if you have short legs)
I don't know anybody else who would go to that length to match feel on the bike to that sort of objective data! This video was very instructional but also raises a host of questions in my mind... most importantly: when will these new tipple clamps will be available (not that it will make me any faster though :-))
What a great job you are giving away for nothing...Bud 👌👍🍺 Keep going... Tell people to... how to use "your" working tool, the hammer... pivoting it in your wrist... and explaining the Mob... how effective is 89 motogp rider compare to Doohan's body sliding on the bike? As well moving front or back, depending of beind on/off the gas? Some people still don't know why they do such a dance on the bike? Tell them to, the difference between using normal air to inflate the tires? it brings... whather condensation inside the tire, because it heats... more tire temp oscillation more faster tire degradation... less tire for the end or th race... Using just nitrogen for the tire inflation... is more stable as temp fluctuation... more grip, more tire for the end of the race... even though... it lasted me more 1000 miles more the tire on the road...because i did the test since i started to use anytime the nitro... even on the road always use a little less pressure them the tire fabricator recomends... for the heating compensation...thought... Track or road... i recomend anyone to give it a try. Keep "shining" Dude. 🍺👍😃
Hey Eric, have you figured out what is the best triple clamp off set for you to work with, given your current right height setup (if i remember well you rised the back by over 30mm, right?) Rossano
I went Plus 2mm, actually ADDING trail back because I run the rear so high that I've surpassed that neutral place that I prefer so much (around 101mm). Most I expect will reduce trail, using the shorter offsets. But of course I am backwards... :-)
You meant to say you reduced the OEM offset by 2mm to increase the trail by more or less 2mm. You said you added...which will reduce the trail... I knew you were reducing the offset to both increase the trail and reduce the wheelbase. I was just wandering if you had the chance to reduce it by more than 2mm, let's say 3 or 4mm (so 29-28mm offset) to see how it behaved on the race track
Regarding the end comments about the bike feeling like it was going to fall over when using the powerparts clamps, it would be interesting to know what changes you made to the bikes geometry to account for the change in compliance between the two clamps. I own a 22 SDR and I'm having some issues with the lack of feedback I'm getting when cornering, I don't know if I have grip so I don't feel so confident entering a turn at speed and leaning the bike over and if the road is ondulating i get bucked out of the seat, then again I've only had it a week tomorrow. Any advice for "fast" road riding set ups?
Yes definitely lots of advice and ideas that can surely send you off in terrible directions that will ruin everything about your new SDR…. Just kidding!!! Email me off Superduked.com. I am happy to help you any way that I can. Motorcycles are people glue
The Orange Nation thanks you GoGo ! I'm in for a set of the Super Triples and would like to know if one can put a deposit to secure a set ? P.S. I am enjoying the the +10 degree super links I purchased from you and how they have changed my riding on the 2023 Super Duke R Evo.
Man that makes me happy to hear brother. Thank you for the props and support. It's an important question about the..... Let's call it the "Superclamp". It cost me too much money to have the prototype made. Too much to sell or to buy I think. Thankfully though that was in large part due me only having one made. One is a lonely number, I've heard that for years, but I never understood it to be the most expensive number until this Superclamp project. So to make this happen for everyone I will need to take a survey or something. Maybe a sign-up sheet, or like you suggest a pre-order deposit of a small amount, just so I know a number for the first run. Thanks for your idea and help
I use and sell new frame-mont adjustable rubber steering stops. They are badass - limit tank-slappers, protect your triples and frame and fuel tank from stupid OEM steering stops breaking like they always do in a fall and then the bars crush the tank. It's good to have those plastic inserts in your front axle that stick out a bit - they help keep your fork bottoms from scraping the deck. I use a carbon swingarm cover, which works. I use non-foldable footpegs (folding pegs put your bike straight against the pavement). And I use Vanson Leathers. But my best crash protection so far has been the adjustable offset Superclamp. I crash less with the Superclamp, while riding faster than I ever have. Go figure.
@@superduked33 Thanks - I noticed from some other videos you don't seem to have crash bungs that mount on the engine/frame. A few other track veterans told me they can cause the bike to flip or the engine to crack.
Superduked.com That's where I sell the Sport Link (street version) and the Superlink (race version), which address rear ride height, more linear spring rate, better swingarm angle, anti-squat, less trail. The Superclamp I just tested Monday. Designing steering stops this week then they'll be available for preorder next week.
Does anyone know if any aftermarker companies make "shift relay lever"? Gen2. Attaches to shift shaft and goes under frame... ktm backorder, with no date of availability....had to sit out a few trackdays this year because, broken....any help much appreciated..
Google Yamaha M1 frame rigidity ... this has same energy imho!!! TLGR u want stuff to bend/flex when needed (mid corner/lean over on bumpy stuff) and not bend and flex (braking into corner i guess? )when not needed... PS. you can implement the M1 "structural strength calibration" into a certain make of a yamaha scooter by trial and error and the bike will handle real sweet AND be very forgiving everywhere PS2. the word u trying to express in the feel of the rubber band pulling is " LINEAR and controlled" VS " unpredictable and wild"
Bend/flex at mid corner over bumps is the reason why they mostly went back to 43mm forks instead of the 50mm that were common in late '00. Triple clamp does not contribute much to that. Unfortunately KTM still uses 48mm cause they have to share components with the adventure, which might be needing them considering how tall the forks are...
So when dating girls we want PP triple clamps, but when marrying girls we want the Superclamp. That’s basically what you are saying. At least that’s how I’m hearing it…. :-)
@@superduked33 yeeeah~ !! XD imho for low G applications the PP clamps MAY be more comfy (cough at or or below speed limit on A roads) but if you throw a monkey wrench into it (eg higher G loads courtesy of track time of B roads ) , the PP shows its weakness lol. *guess the PP cant take a beating at the track hehehehhe.... PS. as a self taught reverse engineering junkie (i have 3 bikes , commuter, sand/trail bug and canyon carver) , this type of content is the bees knees~ PS.2 do look into yamaha's performance damper , they have licensed it to ACTIV to use on HONDA cb400's (cough iron pipe cradle *wink wink), im sure given your resources, you can jimmy rig one for the superduke PS.3 or look up oversuspension, its a shake weight / energy capacitor for f/r wheels
@superduked Eric, you got it😂 Look at the swingarm designs, expecially in MotoGP, free from any industrialization issues and costs: they are very tall to resist torsion and vertical stresses, but very thin to bend at full lean and comply to the track imperfection, giving the tyre a constant stress. Same for the frames, disappearing in production models for cost reasons, but everywhere else present in racing with open rules. We are talking about 60-65° lean angle though, very different from our common mortal needs, where torsional issues are more feeled. Unfortunately the forks is round, giving the same resistance/deflection in all directions. I guess 43mm is the nowadays optimal compromise between torsional and braking resistance and max lean complying
Guys at 19:00 the pissy silly rubber band is allowing the protractor to move. Don't even try to suggest you can use an impact driver and that it won't affect the digital protractor held on by single, first stretch, rubber band. I'm calling Nah Nah Nah No Way. But good stuff overall.
I agree with you 100%. Regardless of that I believe there are measurable differences between each clamp, which are exemplified here - however roundaboutly (new word, thank you) they are measured here. Gerry is invaluable to motorcyclists and motorcycling, no matter how much of a caveman he can be at times..
Yes. Superduked.com is where you can sign up for updates, and where they will be for sale. I have other suspension parts also for sale there now. The Superclamp is less than a week away from pre-ordering.
No disrespect to this video however Ill trust Austrian engineering at KTM over Americans who make Harleys anytime. I think KTM being in MotoGP know what they're doing.
I think producing motorcycles for street use, by such a vast population of potential rider sizes weights and uses, is why KTM designed our SDRs how they did. Makes sense from liability perspectives, makes sense economically. However when we as riders choose to push these same bikes to extremes, that are designed and prepped to carry 95lb women, 200lb men, and potentially 400lb riders carrying passengers - we run into limitations that have purposely been designed into OEM parts like these triple clamps. So while I do appreciate your point, and actually agree with it - I think you are not considering that while KTM certainly has the ability to design SDRs to handle race use, they purposefully chose to not. As do most manufacturers of motorcycles today, understandably. I will leave your Harley / Americans comment alone in the hopes that your next post to your next video will carry with it more respect for all.
this is the best channel on the planet plzese never stopp
This an eye opener not everything that says upgrade it’s an upgrade
Amen to that
I had a feeling the PP clamps were just jewelry. Great work here Gogo. Looking forward to Part 2.
That’s why I’ve never been interested in throwing £500 at a set.
Thank you very much my friend. More to come
“we got enough opinions in the world right now and some of them are crazy” 😂 I love you gogo
Shut up and take my money! (Thanks for confirming what I’ve been thinking for years, can’t wait for the follow up vid!)
I’ve always wondered too. WTF took me so long to actually find my own answers on this…
That’s an awesome comparison, I’m looking at buying a 1290 SDR for the track soon and these are definitely going to be a first addition for the bike.
Great videos, keep up the good work
Excellent work yet again. Just goes to show, the big companies put out the shiny shiny, and the magpies will buy it, even if you can see straight off that it looks weak 😂.
Looking forward to your next video. Keep up the good work buddy 👍
I will admit I am and I have been the typical magpie. Guilty as charged. If not for my longing for adjustable offset triples I may have remained a magpie. But now I have been saved :-)
Cheers, love real information.
Usually the motive in industry going to a forged part vs. the usual cast part is a reduction of weight. In other words, less material is required to do the same job because the forged material is forged, the microscopic metal grains are aligned in a structural way whereas cast material is much more random. It's like a well designed bridge lattice, it's super strong depending on how the lattice is arranged.
Forged clamps, wheels, pistons, rods, whatever. Yes you can use the same volume of material as the former cast part, but you'll simply be adding a lot of strength without any weight reduction benefit.
Simple test and very instructive. Good shit!
very interesting & eye opening
Very interesting informative video, well done 👍🏻
im amazed and the video was super educational !!! looking forward to buy your triple !!!!
Thank you my friend
I stumbled on this video completely by mistake, but your presentation of the data, as well as the rigorous methods of testing, made me a sub. I have a Gen1 Duke (2015), and I haven't found this type of information specific to the Beast anywhere else. Thank you!
So glad my efforts might help you. That’s a fantastic machine. Check out the series I did on the gens 1&2. Lots of helpful points. Feel free to reach out anytime I’m an open book. Enjoy and stay safe brother
Thanks so much, you're saving me money.
Awesome approach. I love this.
Great video once again Gogo! I learned so much!
I commented on those new clamps on your last video and got very excited when I spotted them, I have your +20 fitted and they are amazing, also have power parts clamps fitted and they are defintly a bling product. Do you have a ball park figure for the clamps? All as mentioned I have the +20 fitted but soon I will be changing the rear shock and was wondering if you would sell the arm seperatly or would I have to purchase the complete set up? Keep up the good work and keep it stiff and ridgid.
Omg keep it stiff and rigid is my new mantra. Many thanks. Ok the Superlink comes with its own “triangles”. They are very specifically shaped for just that special control arm. Which, by the way, is almost done being fabricated. Totally new design which now will accommodate OEM exhaust systems as well as race systems. Email me off Superduked.com. Return customers get discounts
Hey GoGo!! Ive had sleepless nights for the past 8 months waiting for these to be finished ever since you told me they were in the pipeline...... roll on with the release, I need all the help I can get with my track SDR
Help is on the way don’t drown with the coast guard in sight!! 😂
Great to see you back with more awesome information Go Go. Super appreciate all your effort and information sharing. I'm sooo looking forward to knocking the top off a beer and absorbing this! I have to admit, I was tempted by the PP triple clamps for my Gen2, however, decided it was overkill for the tight mountainous spray-seal surfaces it spends 98% of its life on. Thank you!
Thanks Motobreno. I felt bad while editing, it kept being too long. I cut and I cut and I wanted to cut some more, but in the end there’s too much potential value so your solution is far better. Beer
@@superduked33 That was most enjoyable Eric! Thats my kinda shed!! - I believe that the types of people that solve engineering problems themselves appreciate that facts, quality data and analysis must consume time. Conveying them to an audience, doubly so. I do not believe that anybody who is interested in that process and in this topic, was not engaged or lost interest. If they clicked away through impatience then they are not “your people”. (“our people?”) 🏍
@@MotoBreno thank you my friend. I will take your words with me as I continue this journey. Excellent advice.
I'm impressed
Hi Eric, this makes me think that you are going to reduce the offset of 2-4mm to gain the trail and reduce the wheelbase to load the front more. Possibly reducing a bit of ride height in the back too since the anti-squat is now plenty?
That is going to be very interesting, cause I do believe the gen.3 is screwed in the front as I commented in another post. They moved the front end further ahead (Wich was already not enough loaded in gen 1-2) and made a overall excessive wheelbase compared to the swingarm length.
The triple clamp may fix it all.
Looking forward to see your outcomes
I added 2mm of trail with the Superclamp. Interestingly, and I can hardly wait for your particular analysis on this my friend, I also recently added several mm to my swingarm length by changing to 16/43/116 gearing and chain. Going into the weekend I feared the longer wheelbase would slow the bike down. Make it heavier to steer, slower roll speed through turns, harder to transition from full lean left to full lean right. But it didn’t. In fact I was faster. So much faster that I set my PB lap time on a 1290 SDR with this swingarm length and 30mm offset rather than the stock 32. In fact I enjoyed riding the bike so much like this that I was actually sad leaving the racetrack Sunday night. I don’t remember ever feeling this way after three days racing on a Sunday night. Brilliance
Thanks for your patience Eric, you know I can't be short with the answers. My bad.
The effects of the wheelbase alone might be difficult to feel because it is difficult to isolate them from the more evident other effects generated by the typical adjustments leading to the wheelbase change. In order to do it (isolate its effect) one should cut the bike frame (if any anymore) exactly in the COG and make it shorter or longer in that exact point, keeping COG, swingarm length and angle, rake and trail, the same.
Once the bike is build, the wheelbase is somehow given and you change it as a side effect of other most needed modifications.
In your case, by reducing the clamp offset you reduced the wheelbase but mostly you shortened the distance of the front wheel from the COG, putting more load to the tyre.
Same you did on the COG shift by extending the swingarm further back. Overall you increased the load on the front tyre leading to a better grip. This is what our bike needs mostly, different would be for other bikes.
You are getting also a better feeling from the new triple clamp rigidity leading to a higher confidence and possibly higher apex approaching speed.
The wheelbase alone affects the stress on the front tyre, with a longer wheelbase bike needing more steering angle to ride a given turn. It is no different from a truck or a bus turning a switchback vs. a shorter vehicle. This is related to the "yaw speed" of the bike around a vertical axis and expresses the capacity to close narrow lines with less steering inputs/angles (and so tyre stress). It has to be felt after reaching the full lean and after releasing the brakes, as the speed or the effort with which the bike closes the lines and reaches the apex. Better felt in long radius, constant gas, negative banked turns.
This is to be distinguished from the flick ability of the bike which is related to the "rolling speed" around a horizontal axes, and expresses the effort it takes to lean the bike, to go side to side (but in these transitions the bike is not fully turning yet)
The latter affected by COG height, trail, tyres width and very evident in each own riding feeling.
My personal experience with (old) ducatis and Aprilias approaching a turn was "sh** I'am too late and too fast" and immediately after "sh** I could have entered this turn faster"
On the KTM was instead "I m going to break the laws of the phisics entering this turn" and immediately after "oh God I'm running wide"
Fortunately we found the way to change it by turning the bike's geometry upside-down.
Why don't you shorten the offset even more, to the point where the gain with the steering (shorter wheelbase and higher tyre load) balances the Lost in agility (longer trail)?
That's going to be interesting, even though your current values (100mm trail, about 24,5 rake I guess) are in the ballpark of the best performing hyper naked in the market.
Still the tuono and the Triumph have a few mm longer trail and shorter wheelbase, so maybe shortening the offset to 28mm might still be advantageous?
incredible!
Love this...!
That’s was very interesting 👍 good Jobb 😎👍 thank you
Big respect ✊
do a video about why you choose duke as your weapon of voice and whatsndiffrent from duke and sportbikes
Great video! But you don't need to go any faster. See ya in the next open twins race.
Hi Eric are you planning on doing a how to fit video for this like you did the superlink👍
Yes. I have been filming an install / use / offset triple clamp explanation video since Tuesday of last week. Feels like I am trying to set a new record for how many attempts it takes to make one f'ing video. I keep thinking I am done and then my people tell me I need to do better. WTF
I would be very much interested in the Superclamp for my Super duke purely just as an OEM replacement that supports the steering lock etc (no need for adjustment at my ability). This would be for no other reason I think it looks amazing.
I have a pretty much stock 21 Gen3 SDR and have been watching a lot of your videos. My first super naked after riding mostly 1000cc sportbikes (S1000RR and R1) and to me, there is just something that feels off about the front end of the SDR. I feel the front really lacks stability and is extremely twitchy when turning and is unpredictable. I've been trying to figure out a way to improve it and I'd heard lowering the forks a couple mm could help with this. Wondered if you had any thoughts? Interested in the clamp but all the way in the UK so might be a challenge with postage. Anyways, appreciate all the effort with the videos - keep them coming!
I recently bought a set of the KTM triples.... , so , I will use them for weight saving until your triples are available .... Got your full linkage fitted and running the TTX shock , I seen yours is still sporting one too bro .
I miss my MUPO because I loved (the idea at least) of having low and high speed adjustment. And Ohlins TTX doesn’t roll like that, which in theory mostly has me bummed. But in reality the bike is faster now and I have zero complaints about the TTX’s ability to control the spring. I have been able to click my way past all issues so far. Very happy
@@superduked33 Well you are out there on the track , riding the tits off that bike , so good enough for me you like it GoGo . I will be looking out for your triples for sale , cheers mate .
Eric - Great scientific approach to this. Quick question - Do you think the PowerParts clamps, given they flex more than the stock, were engineered to do that? To give more feel persay and to be complimentary to the stiffness of the frame? Or just that - jewelry? Now that the Gen 3 frame is meant to be the stiffest...and now your clamps which are amazingly stiff (and I want a set for my Gen 2), do you think that then transfers that "flex" energy to the fork legs...tires...etc?
Excellent questions Miles. So glad you asked because I have had this exact conversation several times since filming this. I'll give you my gut response first: Superbike seats. What characteristic do they have that I benefit from the most? No mushy padding acting as a buffer between the road and my butt. Because that padding cuts down on my feel. I think about triples in a similar way. When leaned over, our forks don't compress from bumps the same way they do when straight up and down - because the force is now hitting them at an angle. So our forks flex a bit, as they also compress. Seems scary on paper but it works out fine in reality. There was a brief era that Ohlins Superbike forks were oval shaped, influenced by Rossi, for this exact reason. So they would flex when leaned over, but not while braking. Nowhere in there are triple clamps or flexing mentioned. In fact when you think about it, they used to sell fork braces to help triple clamps keep the forks even more aligned, not less. So I hear what you are considering. I have considered it too. But in the end I choose no flex and here is why; Torsional flex, like when you are both braking AND bending the bike into a turn. THAT is the point, to me, where I want the lest amount of flex, the most amount of accurate feedback, and on top of both of those things I want my front tire to keep aimed in the direction that I need it to. Instead, with triples that flex, those two forks do not stay true. Do not stay on the same plane. And when the PP triples, according to what our tests suggested, are under lateral stress - they do flex. They do twist. The result of that twist means higher in the fork travel the front wheel is aimed left, but lower in the fork travel the front wheel might be closer to straight. And up and down and left and right on a bumpy road we go through turns like chickens with no heads. Screw that. Give me two forks operating on the same plane all day every day of the week. ...But if that logic doesn't hit a nerve, try this other way of considering this exact scenario in a different way. Lap times. Laguna Seca AHRMA 2022, same bike, same tires, same ride heights and links, same everything - except one thing. In 22 I ran KTM's Power Parts Triple Clamps. I rode my heart out that weekend, won some races, the best lap I turned was a low 1:32. 2023 Laguna Seca AHRMA I ran my prototype triple clams that I now affectionately call the "Superclamp". I rode my heart out this weekend too - I ran several 1:29s. ...I also lost the front this past June on the fist lap of a restart where I was not able to mount warmers because me and one other racer were stopped out there on track, waiting to be let back in, when everyone else was back in the pits on warmers. So I took the holeshot, jammed through the first two turns which were both lefts. But when I threw it into the fist right hander, a 200 degree off-camber turn with bumps throughout, I lost the front. And for the first time, for me anyway, when I lost the front I did not panic. It felt predictable, if felt controllable. So I stayed in it, kept my composure, and drifted that front all the way through the meat of that turn. I am not that good. I do not push front tires like that. Usually when I lose the front its an emergency. But this day I pushed the front all the way through, like i've done it a million times in the past. And I know in my heart why I was able to. It was the Superclamp. It was having exacting information to understand and to respond to, instead of delaying that information by bending something through it's range to the point where finally it snaps.. Instead nothing snapped. No emergency. No rebuilding motorcycles due to crashing. Instead I went on to win that race which ended up being one of my best of the season up until then.
Thats what I thought.. I searched for ages to find out the dif in offset betwen the oem and powerparts.. Could not find any convincing info on benefits to the pp clamps
My experience too. They say “no news is good news”. Maybe in this case “no information is bad news”
The word you're really looking for is compliance. The powerparts clamps are more compliant compared to the standard ones. You should ask KTM tech support to comment to give their thoughts on it. I suspect that the added compliance is where that "feel" people talk about comes from.
I appreciate that thinking. My experience is very different. I’ve raced on the PP clamps for years. Several sets on three different SDRs. For me the bit at the end of the video, the rubber band analogy, which I probably should have started the video with because I bet only eleven people will ever make it to the end of this video to see - THAT is the biggest difference between the feel and the performance of the PP clamp vs a stiffer more rigid clamp. That most critical point of corner entry, where still dragging the brakes while turning in, I suspect the more rigid clamp shines the most. At least it does for me. That’s where my bikes used to suddenly fall where now it communicates better, earlier, and clearer. It’s a big boost to my confidence. But I agree with you, I am confident that flex does play a beneficial roll in chassis feel and performance. I think the arbitrary element of the conversation that is most limiting here is establishing a middle ground. What exactly is the point where too little flex becomes too much flex? Where is that tipping point? For me, now especially, after doing this work and filming, my feeling is the PP clamps live a little too far in the flex world. The Superclamp feels closer to the middle ground between too much and too little. Fascinating conversation and science. Thanks for sharing your opinion mrnobody
@superduked4507 Great insights thank you. I've been reading a book about motorcycle suspension set up by Gustavo Alvaro (Technical Training Specialist at Kawasaki Motors N.V) so far I have understood that the SDR sits in a fairly unique scenario for suspension geometry tuning because of its trellis frame and the fact the engine is now a stress member. I will finish the book and wait for your feedback on the email I sent via the website, I expect the answers may generate more questions but it would be great to have a starting point if such a thing exists.
@@mrnobody9821 all good questions generate more good questions my friend. That’s the journey. I’ll hit you back tonight
Great video and very educational. Your approach to racing and tuning deserves some respect, but I have a question, why SuperDuke for racing? I feel like a proper superbike would do a better job at beating competition, as SDR was built for hooliganism on the street and flat out fun on track let’s say, but not necessarily lap times. I did 30 track days, mostly in COTA aboard modified Panigale V4S and that thing made the job almost too easy. I literally never been passed on that bike in advanced group in COTA, except by Kyle Wyman.. For the street my choice is Gen 3 SDR all day any day.
Great questions deserve great answers.. If it wasn't for the SDR I would no longer be racing. Over 3 decades at this racing thing, and always with the "proper" bikes. Got boring. Winning is kind of a lonely thing. Almost selfish at times. SDRs make racing extra challenging for me. For a long time I couldn't win at all. I failed so many times in so many different ways. But trying to get something to do something it wasn't designed to do has created something in me where nothing used to exist. I've never learned so much, never analyzed things so intensely, never had to be this creative in order to get a bike to go better, faster, and with more control. If I was racing an R1 right now, I wouldn't be. My current SDR is the most rewarding and enjoyable motorcycle I have ever raced.
That’s awesome. I get it. I tend to find similar things motivating for myself. This “build” process is major source of joy. 2020 Gen 3 SDR was my first KTM and it is my favorite “street” bike to date. I typically buy one new bike per year, but I struggle to find something that can eclipse it for this specific purpose. I will be buying 2023 SDGT as a long-distance add-on in a couple of weeks hopefully. I am worried about it’s engine tune though and lack of aftermarket solutions in that area , I tried and disliked 2022 1290 SAS and sold it after 6000 miles. It had to do with engine feel and tune. Same LC8, totally different feel. SDR with full Akra is sublime IMO and if GT can be at least a little bit close I will be over the moon.
@@TheSuperpod This is not an advertisement I promise. But there is some added element to this bike now for me that has evolved into something I did not see coming. I am a carpenter. Always my approach to building things, changing things, improving things has been wood based if I could make it, or metal based if I could buy it. Always. Until this Gen3 came along, specifically with the link based rear suspension. I knew enough about links from so many years racing other bikes, so I was over the moon excited when I learned the Gen3 had a link. ....But nobody made links for it. Not the first year, not the second year. Two years in and here I am facing that same metal-based building challenge for me - I can't buy it so I can't have it. Then for the first time in my life I considered building in metal. I bought an old CNC knee mill, I bought software, and I went to work learning and experimenting and testing. Other racers that I used to beat on my Gen2 regularly, but now lost to regularly on my "better" Gen3, came over to my pit that first year and said, "man you're really working out there, but you lost something with the new bike haven't you.." ...Boy did that leave a mark. Because they were right. Guys I used to pass around the outside of double apex turns now would pass me around the outside of the same turns. I couldn't do a thing about it. I couldn't even tell exactly what was wrong. I took it personally of course, I doubted my ability, I thought maybe I'd lost my edge. I kept working in the background, machining different links, testing links, I was even lucky enough to use World Superdike chassis software to help design the new links (after begging the developer to measure a Gen3 and add the motorcycle to his data base). And then finally I hit on something. My first new link was a success. It wasn't night vs day difference, it was a process that finally now was moving in a better direction. I kept at it. Kept experimenting, kept testing new ideas, kept fabricating new shapes inspired by old ideas I used on other race bikes like Ducati's great 749R, Suzuki's GSXR 1k, the original 990 Superduke R. Today I regularly pass those guys again, around the outside while riding a bike that does exactly what I want it to do, exactly when I want it to. Now my Gen3 SDR is not only a great, fun, well known KTM 1290 Superduke - but it is "my" 1290 Superduke. And depending on where and how I set it up, its the only one on the world like it. So winning on a bike that I helped make that good, is more satisfying than any bike I have ever won on before. The feeling is almost impossible to explain. And now starting this small business and sharing my parts with a world of other guys like you who were in the same perplexing situation that I was in, but didn't know why.... and getting emails back after they try the parts and they're so excited they can barely finish the email, that is even more unexplainable. Thanks for contributing @TheSuperpod.
at 36:00 minutes in the video, I want to see if a fork brace will improve the numbers generated by the weight....or not. The triple clamp you have designed is incredible and I'm going to get one but I want an { orange front fork brace ) LOL, evaluate performance on the track. Like you were saying that smooth area or fluidity going exactly where you point it ? Im puzzled and why, why, why is a great question. Go Go I hope you try it just for shits and giggles to see if it makes a difference. You know Choking up on the Bat {smaller lever } ? maC
Phewww happy i didn't buy the powerpart!
Can't wait for yours but a bit worried about the cost
Don’t be worried about the cost. If I can’t make it reasonable I won’t make them. And I think I can
@@superduked33 don'ttell me you wont make them. That would be even more worrying 😂
Luckily you added 'I think I'll be able to make it'
@@Latitude3324 🤣😆🤣
Hi Eric this was such an enjoyable video to watch seeing you and Gerry banter really special. Ah the Physics behind the art and science of motorcycle geometry + candid humour doesn't get any better most excellent!!! SUPER DUKE GOOD:]
That makes me happy to hear Mark. Some tell me I need to make videos shorter, which means cut things like banter out. But I just can’t. Screw it. Glad you hung in there my friend
Amazing info from proper people, thanks Eric. If am lowering front fork in clamp on gen 1 it will load front wheel more, for more front wheel feel?
Very little, unfortunately.
30mm rise in the back only adds 3-4kg on the front axle. Measured with two scales under the two wheels.
That's why the rise of the ride height in the back is "mandatory" for a good front end feeling as well as anti-squat of the back.
My 2 c
Erixlast6020, in my experience lowering the front has had very little impact on bike feel up front. I know, it’s frustrating and makes no sense, but that’s been my experience and feel. Adding height to the rear is where it’s at. And in doing that you also benefit in other ways not just trail. Lots of related changes almost all of which are positives (except if you have short legs)
I don't know anybody else who would go to that length to match feel on the bike to that sort of objective data! This video was very instructional but also raises a host of questions in my mind... most importantly: when will these new tipple clamps will be available (not that it will make me any faster though :-))
You are f'ing hysterical my friend. Don't ever change. August
What a great job you are giving away for nothing...Bud 👌👍🍺
Keep going...
Tell people to... how to use "your" working tool, the hammer... pivoting it in your wrist... and explaining the Mob... how
effective is 89 motogp rider compare to Doohan's body sliding on the bike?
As well moving front or back, depending of beind on/off the gas?
Some people still don't know why they do such a dance on the bike?
Tell them to, the difference between using normal air to inflate the tires? it brings... whather condensation inside the tire, because it heats... more tire temp oscillation more faster tire degradation... less tire for the end or th race...
Using just nitrogen for the tire inflation... is more stable as temp fluctuation... more grip, more tire for the end of the race... even though... it lasted me more 1000 miles more the tire on the road...because i did the test since i started to use anytime the nitro... even on the road always use a little less pressure them the tire fabricator recomends... for the heating compensation...thought...
Track or road... i recomend anyone to give it a try.
Keep "shining" Dude.
🍺👍😃
Hey Eric, have you figured out what is the best triple clamp off set for you to work with, given your current right height setup (if i remember well you rised the back by over 30mm, right?)
Rossano
I went Plus 2mm, actually ADDING trail back because I run the rear so high that I've surpassed that neutral place that I prefer so much (around 101mm). Most I expect will reduce trail, using the shorter offsets. But of course I am backwards... :-)
You meant to say you reduced the OEM offset by 2mm to increase the trail by more or less 2mm. You said you added...which will reduce the trail...
I knew you were reducing the offset to both increase the trail and reduce the wheelbase.
I was just wandering if you had the chance to reduce it by more than 2mm, let's say 3 or 4mm (so 29-28mm offset) to see how it behaved on the race track
Regarding the end comments about the bike feeling like it was going to fall over when using the powerparts clamps, it would be interesting to know what changes you made to the bikes geometry to account for the change in compliance between the two clamps. I own a 22 SDR and I'm having some issues with the lack of feedback I'm getting when cornering, I don't know if I have grip so I don't feel so confident entering a turn at speed and leaning the bike over and if the road is ondulating i get bucked out of the seat, then again I've only had it a week tomorrow. Any advice for "fast" road riding set ups?
Yes definitely lots of advice and ideas that can surely send you off in terrible directions that will ruin everything about your new SDR…. Just kidding!!! Email me off Superduked.com. I am happy to help you any way that I can. Motorcycles are people glue
@@superduked33 Thank you :)
The Orange Nation thanks you GoGo ! I'm in for a set of the Super Triples and would like to know if one can put a deposit to secure a set ?
P.S. I am enjoying the the +10 degree super links I purchased from you and how they have changed my riding on the 2023 Super Duke R Evo.
Man that makes me happy to hear brother. Thank you for the props and support. It's an important question about the..... Let's call it the "Superclamp". It cost me too much money to have the prototype made. Too much to sell or to buy I think. Thankfully though that was in large part due me only having one made. One is a lonely number, I've heard that for years, but I never understood it to be the most expensive number until this Superclamp project. So to make this happen for everyone I will need to take a survey or something. Maybe a sign-up sheet, or like you suggest a pre-order deposit of a small amount, just so I know a number for the first run. Thanks for your idea and help
GoGo, what crash protection do you use on the bike?
I use and sell new frame-mont adjustable rubber steering stops. They are badass - limit tank-slappers, protect your triples and frame and fuel tank from stupid OEM steering stops breaking like they always do in a fall and then the bars crush the tank. It's good to have those plastic inserts in your front axle that stick out a bit - they help keep your fork bottoms from scraping the deck. I use a carbon swingarm cover, which works. I use non-foldable footpegs (folding pegs put your bike straight against the pavement). And I use Vanson Leathers. But my best crash protection so far has been the adjustable offset Superclamp. I crash less with the Superclamp, while riding faster than I ever have. Go figure.
@@superduked33 Thanks - I noticed from some other videos you don't seem to have crash bungs that mount on the engine/frame. A few other track veterans told me they can cause the bike to flip or the engine to crack.
You buy because their orange Eric!😂
Shameful but true. I am guilty X 5
Where can buy super clamp triple clamp
Superduked.com That's where I sell the Sport Link (street version) and the Superlink (race version), which address rear ride height, more linear spring rate, better swingarm angle, anti-squat, less trail. The Superclamp I just tested Monday. Designing steering stops this week then they'll be available for preorder next week.
Does anyone know if any aftermarker companies make "shift relay lever"? Gen2. Attaches to shift shaft and goes under frame... ktm backorder, with no date of availability....had to sit out a few trackdays this year because, broken....any help much appreciated..
Yes. I can get one for you. Where are you located. I can buy it and ship anywhere you want. Checked last night they are available in the US
Email me off Superduked.com contact page
Google Yamaha M1 frame rigidity ... this has same energy imho!!!
TLGR u want stuff to bend/flex when needed (mid corner/lean over on bumpy stuff) and not bend and flex (braking into corner i guess? )when not needed...
PS. you can implement the M1 "structural strength calibration" into a certain make of a yamaha scooter by trial and error and the bike will handle real sweet AND be very forgiving everywhere
PS2. the word u trying to express in the feel of the rubber band pulling is " LINEAR and controlled" VS " unpredictable and wild"
Bend/flex at mid corner over bumps is the reason why they mostly went back to 43mm forks instead of the 50mm that were common in late '00. Triple clamp does not contribute much to that.
Unfortunately KTM still uses 48mm cause they have to share components with the adventure, which might be needing them considering how tall the forks are...
@@rossanodimonte2520 interesting observation!!
So when dating girls we want PP triple clamps, but when marrying girls we want the Superclamp. That’s basically what you are saying. At least that’s how I’m hearing it…. :-)
@@superduked33 yeeeah~ !! XD
imho for low G applications the PP clamps MAY be more comfy (cough at or or below speed limit on A roads) but if you throw a monkey wrench into it (eg higher G loads courtesy of track time of B roads ) , the PP shows its weakness lol.
*guess the PP cant take a beating at the track hehehehhe....
PS. as a self taught reverse engineering junkie (i have 3 bikes , commuter, sand/trail bug and canyon carver) , this type of content is the bees knees~
PS.2 do look into yamaha's performance damper , they have licensed it to ACTIV to use on HONDA cb400's (cough iron pipe cradle *wink wink), im sure given your resources, you can jimmy rig one for the superduke
PS.3 or look up oversuspension, its a shake weight / energy capacitor for f/r wheels
@superduked
Eric, you got it😂
Look at the swingarm designs, expecially in MotoGP, free from any industrialization issues and costs: they are very tall to resist torsion and vertical stresses, but very thin to bend at full lean and comply to the track imperfection, giving the tyre a constant stress.
Same for the frames, disappearing in production models for cost reasons, but everywhere else present in racing with open rules.
We are talking about 60-65° lean angle though, very different from our common mortal needs, where torsional issues are more feeled.
Unfortunately the forks is round, giving the same resistance/deflection in all directions.
I guess 43mm is the nowadays optimal compromise between torsional and braking resistance and max lean complying
So here is the million dollar question... where can I buy those better triple clamps...
Stay tuned my friend, big news is only a day away
Guys at 19:00 the pissy silly rubber band is allowing the protractor to move. Don't even try to suggest you can use an impact driver and that it won't affect the digital protractor held on by single, first stretch, rubber band. I'm calling Nah Nah Nah No Way. But good stuff overall.
I agree with you 100%. Regardless of that I believe there are measurable differences between each clamp, which are exemplified here - however roundaboutly (new word, thank you) they are measured here. Gerry is invaluable to motorcyclists and motorcycling, no matter how much of a caveman he can be at times..
Strain gauge is needed. This is very crude.
100% agree on the strain gauge, which I have now. Still though, crude as it is, the obvious is obvious. Thanks for watching
More pithy please
ARE YOU SELLING THE SUPERCLAMP?
Yes. Superduked.com is where you can sign up for updates, and where they will be for sale. I have other suspension parts also for sale there now. The Superclamp is less than a week away from pre-ordering.
$800 lol i'd rather take my OEM ones off & power coat them to the KTM color code!
No disrespect to this video however Ill trust Austrian engineering at KTM over Americans who make Harleys anytime. I think KTM being in MotoGP know what they're doing.
I think producing motorcycles for street use, by such a vast population of potential rider sizes weights and uses, is why KTM designed our SDRs how they did. Makes sense from liability perspectives, makes sense economically. However when we as riders choose to push these same bikes to extremes, that are designed and prepped to carry 95lb women, 200lb men, and potentially 400lb riders carrying passengers - we run into limitations that have purposely been designed into OEM parts like these triple clamps. So while I do appreciate your point, and actually agree with it - I think you are not considering that while KTM certainly has the ability to design SDRs to handle race use, they purposefully chose to not. As do most manufacturers of motorcycles today, understandably. I will leave your Harley / Americans comment alone in the hopes that your next post to your next video will carry with it more respect for all.