DESLUDGING My Dodge Dart Engine From Totaled To CLEAN
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- I bought a cheap 2013 Dodge Dart SXT to rent out on Turo. When I bought it I was told the maintenance was always kept up with and it was ready to go. There was basically nothing wrong with it but a slow valve cover leak, until @TylerPotter and I pulled the valve cover off... thats when we found the engine full of sludge. Today we're going to clean the engine out with BG Dynamic. It's a chemical treatment that removes sludge with a multi-step process and makes the inside of old engines look incredible.
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#DodgeDart #CheapCar #Sludge
WATCH THE NEXT VIDEO IN THE SERIES TO SEE THE VALVE COVER OFF... I've gotten 5 million comments about this and have responded to all of them, but they keep coming. The engine was flawless inside, just like it has been every time I run Dynamic.
Show us the bottom end with the oil pan off. Just take this video down. It’s terrible. Waste of time and life
Is this the after? ua-cam.com/video/8sMzOiYezfk/v-deo.html
The lack of before and after images of *this particular engine* is a disappointment.
That would make too much sense
The magic of opening and closing the hood. Bam
Agreed
I was about to make this comment.
It is not a disappointment it says a lot about asking chemicals to fix an engine
I'm sure BG would sponsor that gasket if you showed the endproduct....
Whats the point of going through all that and not pulling off the valve cover in the end to see the end result...?! Should’ve left the old valve cover gasket then changed it after the test.. 😖
I don't think the sludge problem was known until they took the cover off in the first place.
He should have pulled it off to see and show it and just put it back on. If it was leaking again, order another one. Maybe he would have got lucky and it would have been fine when put back on with the same (new ) gasket
He didn't know about the sludge problem until he went to do the valve cover gasket.
No kidding! 🙄
WHO gave those likes???😮 10 k?
FYI, scantools can do more than just check/clear codes, they can also command RPM using special functions so you don't have to jam a 2x4 into your nice seat
If the oil drain bolt is dripping, you don't fix this by tightening the bolt tighter. You install a new crush washer to stop the leaking.
I'm not criticizing anyone. The gentleman knows his business, but having spun my share of oil plugs....
The electric ratchet had me on the edge of my seat. hehe
The drain plug doesn't have a crush washer. New MOPAR drain plugs have a rubber insert which is not replaceable.
@@thunderods7228 Not just Mopar. Most USA companies have switched to that. Ford, GM, Dodge, etc.
@@thunderods7228 then just get a new drain plug? $5 maybe $10?
@@thunderods7228 🤣
BG brought back my '04 Silverado's 5.3 from almost 300k miles with cracked heads. Boiled off dexcool formed a sludge in the oil, engine was a mess. Zero oil pressure. We changed heads and ran high quality oil 800 miles for 3 changes in a row. Would still knock loose larger sludge and clog pick up tube. Decided to give it one more shot with BG. At the final flush it came out clean. Engine is sparkly clean and truck has since run 20k miles trouble free with perfect oil pressure. I'm a believer, BG is solid.
Bullshit
320k miles on the original engine?
If it was me, I'd pull the oil pan and clean it, and especially clean the oil pickup screen. Not all that solidified sludge will have dissolved to be filtered out, and if enough of it ends up in the pickup screen, its goodbye engine!
Blow this up! Exactly what i was thinking!!!
Not with that engine flush
Can’t do that, oil pan gasket is $50.
@@leinad20002 He said _valve_ gasket was $50 and RTV'd in. Don't know what the price is for oil pan gasket
@@leinad20002 Like he didn't make that from the income from the content? BS!
FYI: regular Wix filters are better than their XPs. The regular ones filter down to a finer micron level. The XP ones sacrifice some efficiency for the ability to do long drain intervals. Unless you’re doing extended OCIs, the regular Wix filter is better.
Are you certain about this? What are numbers/microns? I do know that regular vs XP uses different filter material so this does seem plausible
@@g_unit6773 it's true. They leave the passages in the extended filters bigger so they don't clog up over the long OCI and prevent proper oil flow through the filter.
I use the regular for the same reason, plus I do oil changes at 3000 or less miles. I have seen a lot of forum's talking about the xp filters and how they aren't as good.
I believe its 20 micron for the normal and 30 for the XP
@Truth Teller post a video!
Since you don't want to remove the valve cover again for obvious reasons, why not remove the oil pan since it needs to be resealed anyways? You could show the current sludge or possibly do it at the next oil change? Good content!
Snake Oil. There is nothing worse than a UA-cam channel selling chemicals you can put in your car promising miracles.
@@Z7691-g1c I was wondering that same thing. I have a 2013 Dart, and I would be er let it set running at 3000 rpms for 45 minutes. Sounds like trouble to me.
@@Z7691-g1c It's not snake oil and it actually works. I've used it personally.
Seems like letting a car run at 3000rpm for 45 mins with no airflow isnt the brughtest choice, i agree. @charlesbosse9669
The best way to clean sludge out of your engine is to change the oil often enough so you don't get sludge to build up.
A better faster way is to run diesel in it. It’ll keep everything lubricated and still break down all the sludge
@@Thekidsinafrica14 Yep. Leaves the engine squeaky-clean inside... it's a great solvent, especially if you let it sit in there for a few hours after turning the engine over a few times. Flush it twice, and it looks brand new.
You'll be saying goodbye to your rubber stem seals if you do that
@@Vyker Who the heck uses rubber anymore, especially inside an engine? All neoprene these days, as far as I know.
The topic is after the fact Mr. Obvious
I’m sure me and others would like to see the rocker cover back off….to see if the sludge has gone 🤔
I’m sure the results aren’t nearly as good as BG wants you to believe. The small amount of sludge that was removed is now in the oil pan.
I know right?
To be fair, those two drains he did were very dark. I wouldn't do this on a car with an engine in half decent condition though! Seems pretty severe, to run for over 1 hour at 3k RPM in neutral. Everything will get super hot under the hood without outside air flowing by.
No after pics don't like
The bg dynamic kit actually works incredibly well. It is very expensive though. We had to put an engine in one of our shop vehicles and the new to us engine was pretty sludged up. Used this kit and every little nook and crany looked brand new. I was very skeptical at first but after seeing that I'm a believer.
awww come on, was looking forward to seeing that valve cover off...
Before I change the oil on any engine, I always let them run 15 minutes with 1 L Diesel in the engine oil. It cost 1$ and the engine is clean! My experience and what I learnt from my grandfather 40 years ago.
Do u add to the oil already in there, do u take some oil out first? Or do u empty it and then add deisel to an empty engine?
I’m deeply disappointed that you didn’t take the valve cover off to show us the result. 😢
Go watch the Camaro video!
@@frostyflake1128. I did- when it came out. I wanted to see this particular engine.
@@sheputthelimeinthecoconut629 that's fair
He did state that a new seal was very expensive. Makes sense to me.
On that Autel scanner, you can pull down that tab on top of the screen to go to the setting menu and change the units from metric to imperial.
Are fumes just going into the garage with no hose ?
You need an exhaust extraction system for your shop.
Any other ... "recommendations" ?? Ehhh?
Next oil change in 3000 miles change the oil pan plug crush washer. Make this a habit and you'll save yourself a headache.
I don't know why but I love watching the BG engine clean videos.
Kind of curious, what that old filter looks like cut open. With all that sludge moving around.
I wonder what oil the previous owner used and how long they went in between oil changes. I just did the valve cover gasket on our 14 year old Nissan Sentra with 145k on it and the top of the motor was squeaky clean at the corners, cam lobes and lifters. I'd buy the cheapest 5W30 conventional oil on sale (usually Castrol GTX or Supertech) and change it regularly. They must have really gone a long way between changes because cheap oil, once changed regularly, works great.
This was a waste of time if you aren't going to pull the cover off to show the difference
Wondering if there was any change in oil pressure after the clean, also film the next service!
Would like to see this tested on a 2002-2006 Toyota Camry 2.4L with gummed up piston rings and see if it stops smoke and oil usage!
Why? So they last another 300,000 miles? Lol
I try it the epr in my 2015 Camry which I used for lyft before i stop doing it.
I have the 2.5 but 2018 I didn’t move my car all year I was using public transportation since I was working in San Francisco but when I run my car on the weekends it burn oil. I used the liquimoly flush which worked amazing to clean the burned oil and in November I try the epr and my oil came close to when he did the second flush and smelled horrible too but my engine runs like new and is quiet. Before it had little ticking noise
I've always used diesel 50/50 mix with cheapskate oil as a flush, never had a problem in 45 years.
Even on new engines?
@@connorb9097 Nah, only once they're around 6 years plus.
You should be able to change the units on your Autel to SAE in the settings menu. I have a similar scanner and was able to do it while it was connected to my computer for a printout.
Or he can learn the metric units.
1 bar = 100kPa
10 psi = 0.7 bar
It's not very difficult.
@@taunuslunatic404 Fuck metric units, we use freedom units around here
@@lunisce 😆
@@lunisce Unless you’re in the military, then you use metric. Does that mean metric keeps you free?
The best method for a clean engine is not only keeping your oil changed, BUT maintaining a clean air filter and external fuel filter(if equipped). Dirty air/fuel contaminates the oil as well🤷🏽♂️
Sad to see a newer car treated like this. I think the BG products are excellent. Reminds me of when I bought a used 1979 Celica GT in 1987 to drive back and forth to work. The original owner had done 3 or 4 oil changes in 8 years. Surprisingly the car ran pretty good. The 20R engine was bullet proof. A trusted old mechanic told me what to do to clear some of the sludge. I drained the oil, changed the oil filter, added 2 quarts cheap oil and 3 quarts of transmission fluid. I drove it around for a couple of hours, not revving the engine. Drained the oil and was amazed at the chunks of sludge that came out. I did this once more in a month. I ran cheap oil in the car for the next 3 years. I was told that ATF had high levels of detergents. In 1990 I traded it in for a new Isuzu pickup. Keep the content coming!
Order a valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket. When it comes back from rental, pull the valve cover and oil pan. Then we get to see the results on a delayed basis.
I like ATS/Chemical 505 CRO oil system treatment, it removes tough sludge and it takes less time than your treatment, plus they have a fuel treatment .
A dealer would total that engine?!? That shows you just how incapable and inept dealer mechanics are.
Its not that they're inept its that the dealers are trying to maximize profits. To have a car in the shop that long while other vehicles can be dealt with takes from their revenue stream. It also ensures that they get to charge a customer for an entire new engine instead.
How much longer would this engine last anyway at this point? If it's sludged up then obviously previous owner/s didn't really care much. If you remove the sludge you may end up with an engine that now rattles because it's worn out and or starts leaking oil from everywhere, including burning oil. It would be just matter of time before that car would be back at the dealership with angry customer. Not worth it unless you are doing it for yourself.
Interesting product. I have also heard that a quart of ATF also dissolves the sludge. But, it might change the viscosity of the oil which could cause problems with seals and such. So this product must have the same viscosity and yet have powerful dissolving agents.
Modern ATF doesn't do squat as a flush, it's essentially 0W-8 or 0W-16 motor oil made with severely hydroprocesed mineral bases that are effectively "dry" base oils with less additives than motor oil, ATF was once useable as a flush because it contained sperm whale oil which is an ester oil and naphthenic oil which has a good deal of solvency, modern transmission oil is using either grp 2+ or grp. 3 mineral oil bases, or some expensive botique oils or HD truck fluids like Allison TES-295 may contain PAOs but these are all really dry base oils and don't have much solvency, ATF really doesn't need to have any detergency because it doesn't deal with combustion contaminants.
Diy Dave used this on his 2002 Corolla and it did nothing! He did actual testing and showed with a bore scope!
I use my proprietary solution called Turbofield Nano Treatment which cleans up the sludge and seals the micro pores and does not allow new deposits .
Engine clean like polished mirror for ever .
Additionally minimal friction ,heat,vibration heat wear and tear and minimal emissions. Get hyper compression sealing as well
I've seen worse in Pennsylvania. I was told Pensoil uses a paraffin base which causes the build-up of sludge. We drained the oil, then overfilled the engine with kerosene, and ran it for 15 minutes. We drained it, and did it again. Then we ran the engine on type-f ATF. After draining that we filled it with regular engine oil. Nowadays we just use diesel fuel because it's cheaper.
I had an old Nova that I never changed the oil on. Just added oil when needed. Eventually, the oil return passages clogged up and I had to do something. We pulled the rocker arm cover and manually removed as much sludge as possible. I then added a quart of diesel fuel to the oil. The car smoked like a banshee for an hour. Then I changed the oil and filter. The car ran for another few years with no problem.
My neighbor's grandpa smoked until he was 94, so there is that too.
My dad had a Dodge Omni that got to that point. Added a quart of the thinnest oil he could get once every 2 months.
When the car finally crapped out on him after 7 or 8 years (clutch failure), we pulled the engine out and it was surprisingly clean inside. A couple of oil changes while it was on a stand and it went into his buddy’s dune buggy with a Getrag 5 speed and a 2 barrel Weber carb.
I remember being told to slowly pour ATF into the running carb on my ‘71 Torino. It smoked so badly you couldn’t see the car while it was running for like twenty minutes. A little embarrassing in the neighborhood when you’re 16. And stupid. It did free up a couple of collapsed lifters. Did nothing for the valve stem seals.
That was older diesel formula, new stuff is not as slippery.
@@andrewhigdon8346 My dad was a mechanic and used to Spray ATF mixed with water into carburators to burn out carbon buildup. Sprayed it until motor would big down and then wait until rpm went back up. Said the added water would make it burn hot enough to remove the carbon. Had to know when it would actually help. With diesels you add ATF to gas to stop black smoke from exhaust when climbing hill's. Same idea. Removes carbon buildup on valves.
For people watching, change your oil at 5,000-mile intervals, not 10,000-mile intervals. The 10,000 mi intervals is what caused this.
I watched the wizard flush Tyler’s Maserati. There was no before and after. Just the fact he said it would work when a lot of people say don’t. What I’ve noticed is both these programs flushed relatively late model cars, so no worries with old seals. So hell yeah, if you bought what seems to be a decent late model used car, I would have no fear of flushing the engine either , and the BG was quick 👍
Wow, i have that same tool for holding down the gas/brake pedal when needed, work's like a charm. I bet 100% jake has this same tool on a budget, from all the comments that he makes about building up his tool collection. Liqui moly work's well to, m539 restoration used it on one of his bmw's, and it cleaned it really well. I use the bg 44k on my kia soul because the dgi engine's need the cleaning solution to keep them from using oil from all the deposits. I bought a case of 12 kia filters to be able to use the bg product's, and the moa. My car only has 7200 miles since i bought it new in april of 2019, could have gotten the 2020 for the same price, but i hated the body style change which now looks like any other mid size suv. Hope this car gives you many more rental trips.
Liquimoly and BG are amazing totally worth it.
Liquimoly help to solve my oil consumption of my 2015 Camry 2.5
EPR worked amazing in my dad Escalade 6.2 notorious for oil burning save the oil pressure sensor life lol
@julio, I am glad someone else knows how well this stuff work's. The dgi engine's get dirty and carbon up the valve's, which then causes oil consumption, but these product's clean well, restore oil pressure, and stop oil consumption as you said. On my new kia soul, i used this right away, because i don't want a nasty sludged up oil using mess in the engine lol. God bless.
i love it when people think they know alot about cars
I find it incredibly annoying that you can’t just buy this stuff though. You can get the little cans but not the jugs like you use here.
Not like people wouldn’t buy it.
@@JohnSmith-lw2bm it probably has something to do with their warranty that they carry with it. I’m sure they don’t want to be held legally responsible if someone grenades their sludgy engine.
And to save there ass from horrible people that are just looking to sue business
Why do we never see exhaust ventilation tubes in working garages anymore? As long as that car was running indoors I would think the carbon monoxide buildup would be significant. Didn’t garages used to have suction tubes to hook over the exhaust pipes to vent it outside the building?
Good question! I reckon cars burn so cleanly it's not an issue. There's enough cubic feet of open space and ventilation.
they’re still a thing i use them at work all the time but i’m guessing it was overlooked or skipped due to cost when they set their building up
@@stuartbear922 "burning clean" won’t help anything, you’re still producing carbon monoxide
The shop is like standing in a draft, the giant fans don't seal at all 😬
@@WatchJRGo do you have CO detectors in the shop? Be careful!
Nobody comments on the EXHAUST into the BUILDING?!? Where are the extraction hoses?
The building is an extraction hose lol
I just add a quart of kerosene when I changed the old, sludgy oil. Run it for 30 minutes, drain. Change oil and filter. Worked like a charm.
Yep or a qt of ATF...
old school way but works great, My pop taught me that in the 1990,s....
I empty half the oil then refill with diesel fuel, then go for a 5 mile drive. The old oil comes out much quicker and maybe drains more out. Must try ATF next time, even though I don't have an automatic, and will have to buy it in, just for the flush.
'I'm always pumped to use dynamic"....
But not enough to state the cost of treatment 😂
It's only 350$ pretty cheap...
@@BuildTheSandbox please post link to.that kit of four for that money.
It's literally $335 on Amazon and the other 2 cans are $20 each. Or buy it from a shop. 🍻
I have always used pennzoil platinum oil in all my cars along with an extended life oil filter BUT I change the oil at about 5 to 6k miles. I dont care what the manufacturer suggests because it's my engine and I want it to last as long as possible.
This is a good test since its going to be rented. I want to see how many miles can be put on a car like this. I also believe any car rented on a third party app like Turo should be a branded title car with only one rental.
You could do with exhaust extraction system save filling shop with fumes
Especially with running the fucking thing that long at those RPMs. Damn!
Time to get a exhaust hose so you dont smoke the entire shop
You know if you change your oil like you’re supposed to, you can avoid a sludge problem.
not possible when buying a used car
Keep the DART going, it is the bread and butter of the fleet. Wow, wearing his own merch, should have been sponsored by BG
definitely running well for FCA product
We have a yard-truck at work that routinely goes 10k over on mileage for an oil change and spends most of the night sitting idling. Hate to think how bad that is inside. I will give it to Ford, that thing has been neglected but still going with 243k on the clock.
I use ATS CHEMICAL 505, works great.
I like this video because all the other engine flush videos in the comments people are bitching and whining about worrying about clogging internal screens and things like that. But here you kind of solve that problem by doing what I was thinking is buy 3 or 4 filters and just keep changing the filters while you're flushing the engine out. Then if the filter was clogged on the initial flush or two, it won't go through the bypass and clog some other Port that you don't want clogged. Thanks !! 👍👍
"Last piece of maintenance I plan on doing for a while " Well we figured out the problem
Love these BG videos
Bruh...just throw a can of ATF in it 100 miles before an oil change.
So this is the result of not changing the oil every 5K? Is that a $200 treatment? I'm taking off oil pan and cleaning the whole inside and pickup screen too. Old timers used to run a bottle of Marvel mystery oil for upper cylinder lubrication.
Awesome ..... Oil Sludge Removal .... a few years back a local shop wanted to charge me $325.00 to do that ... now I know what product to use ..... Love your Vids ... cheers
Should have done it. They probably charge $500 now lol.
Let's say this stuff makes it all as clean as new... What about all the damage done to the engine from not having any or almost any proper lubrication for God knows how long? If I'm wrong, please explain to me how a slug filled engine is not being damaged and how does unsluging it and so on, fix the damage done....? Or is it just me that ain't getting it?
When you saw the sludge, you should've just bolted the valve cover back on and saved the new gasket for this video!
Probably changing the oil every 7000 miles with an excellent filter might prevent that and making sure you don’t have any leaky gaskets
Excellent product... Something I do to minimize sludge buildup is to run Seafoam @ 500 km before my oil change. It seems to carry any sludge residue away and the engine looks awesome inside. I don't think Seafoam would accomplish what your product does when the engine is severely impacted with sludge.
Wow, you and I have the same recipe. I Have been doing this for years... one ounce of sea foam per quart of oil in the crank case, and one ounce of sea foam for every gallon of fuel in my tank. The Silverado 5.3 V8 is a 6 quart system, and my tank is 25 gallons, so 2 cans of sea foam at 16 ounces is perfect ( the additional ounce goes in the fuel). I have 260k miles on the truck and had the oil pan off recently to reseal it... it is nearly spotless inside. I am a true believer in Sea Foam! It's a great fuel stabilizer for motorcycles and lawn mowers too.
Forgot about BG. Just bought Amsoil to keep those cam sensor screens clean.
That engine with the cam cover off looks like barbecued ribs~!
I would have run that engine outside; The shop must stink after 45 minutes of that thing running.
Great video!
NO AFTER VIDEO OF INSIDE THE ENGINE TO SEE THE RESULTS BECAUSE OF 50 BUCKS IN VALVE COVER GASKET COST???? WHATS THE POINT OF THIS VIDEO.
Was there a reason you didn't vacuum remaining sludge/oil from the bottom of the oil pan after you drained it? Wouldn't that have helped get more out of the system?
I'm sure most un the pan dissolved if the top of the engine got as clean as it did.
BG know their stuff. They must hire the MIT top 2% of the class.
Lol bg is acid
Should have dropped the oil pan and cleaned that. Probably chunks of oil sitting in the pan waiting to get picked up by the oil pump and plugged up.
Just do your oil changes on time. If it’s 5000 every oil change do it 4000 miles.
I’ve seen a lot of videos only in America why don’t people believe in oil changes it’s crazy
This was really cool. I bought a 2015 Dart GT in 2016, I've owned it since it had 62 miles on the odometer. It's been very reliable, though I will have to address some coolant leaks soon. I'm really not looking forward to that. I'm not sure if there is a lot of differences between the 2.0 and 2.4 when it comes to the cooling system, but my car has hoses all over as if it were an early 90's car with vacuum hoses. I's crazy complex.
*2011 lmao, twice JR, you made the same mistake twice. Thank you for the laughs. Love you man.
After watching your Camaro video with BG, I used their EPR on my 1958 IH tractor. After the EPR and a fresh change with Rotella it runs like a sewing machine!
I've been to four Walmarts in the last few weeks and there is no t6 rotella anywhere in Colorado
@@justinsane7128 my local O'Reilly's price matches if you show them the Walmart price on your phone. I've been using straight SAE30 in this old girl (T1)
Change oil and put a quart of Marvel mystery oil in...keeps it clean.
I'd like to see you guys use eye protection
I’m sold I’m going to do this on my LM7!👍🏻🇺🇸
Ahh pull the cover YT ad revenue and money for the BG paid promotion will pay for it.
As a kid of the 70s and 80s, that level of sludge is for amateurs. Good old malaise era engines seemed to have that much sludge installed at the factory.
In the 70s & 80s we traded cars at 50k miles. They were that bad. Getting 100k miles out of one was unheard of.
@@stuartbear922 that's why cars from then will still run after sitting in a field for 10 years if you did that with any new electronically controlled car you wouldn't get 2 years of sitting time before things fail on them
@@stuartbear922
78 Cutlass Supreme, little V8, 120k reliable miles for me
Just fyi you have sludge the damage is already done to late bearings,crankshaft,camshaft journals etc
If I could help Watch JR Goes desludge the Dart I would drink the shot of whiskey and the cold Bartle Skeets and I would pack up the Hash Pipe with Rocky and get all schmoked up
Pissing in oil fill does the same thing, beer piss works the best.
Not cool, didn’t take off the head. All I heard was excuses.
And of course, since you have a high mileage engine, use 5W 40 full synthetic
Does your shop have a ventilation system? I would have done this outside.
It's too cold to even walk outside, it was like 9* that day 🍻
@@WatchJRGo Well it'll keep the beers ice cold at least :)
Use the borescope through the oil filler to see inside the valve covers
Yeah, now it's beautiful inside, but I doubt it runs any different.
The problem [as he stated] with cleaning this garbage out of an engine is that you run the risk of a blob of gunk coming loose and blocking an oil passage, resulting in a destroyed bearing. In many cases, it is probably better to leave well enough alone.
this is also my personal opinion as well. I would ask "why" the engine is this bad? was it from bad service intervals? is it a bad PCV system not venting the vapors fast enough to allow them to condense on the cooler parts of the engine? I am half tempted to take the rocker covers off my cargo van's engine. it has 468000 on it, and has run amsoil OE 5w-30 since I bought it at 110000. the first few changes, the oil came out just muddy black, but after that, it mostly came out clean and dark, not dirty. It was changed every 10k. I am curious what it looks like inside, because it still makes 30 pounds of oil pressure hot, and over 60psi cold.
I feel like this treatment should be run at least twice. Might be a lot of money, but still cheaper than blowing the engine.
I love that you almost always work on cars without getting filthy :) that's true talent!
-talent-
*fake*
Fixed that for ya
@@camojoe83 😂
What are your thoughts on amsoil?
I have used some Marvel Mystery Oil in the past to good success. Like with Sticky lifters. Put a half quart or so in a few hundred miles before you change your oil Just make sure you don't overfill the sump. Of course, I never had a Sludge situation, as I change oil at regular intervals.
I was happy to see you run that product thru the engine. It was nice they sent you some free product. Were you not worried about all the exhaust in the shop? Or did you vace a solution for that we could not see?
He does this all the time though usually not for this long. I think he operate on the "there's enough air in this massive warehouse" principle, but I wonder too.
@@rpavlik1 he replied to another comment saying exactly this, lol
I've been buying cars since1967 and have never owned a car with sludge in the engine!
The evils of extended oil drain intervals, and not changing your oil enough.
Folks change your oil 5k or every 6 month you will not have this problem
Wonder if this will work on my bong?
How can it get that bad on an 11 year old engine, cold weather?
Whoa whoa whoa. I waited all the way till the end just to see that valve cover come off. 😂 come on taking that cover off is UA-cam content.
If you didn't show the valve cover that means that it doesn't work, and if you you make another video that it's works you cleaned first. Because $50.00 to you means nothing.
It's not the money... It's the availability of parts 🤦🏻♂️
I actually like these darts there not bad cars and sound pretty good lol. Just keep them stock😂
The Chrysler 200 isn't bad either.
So since I spent $200 more in oil changes, I saved $500 in cleaners.....I think I will just keep wasting my money in 3,000 mile oil changes.
My valve cover gaskets are still good too....what a waste of money indeed.