Liqui Moly Sludge Remover vs Liqui Moly Engine Flush (Which is Best?)
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- Опубліковано 18 кві 2023
- I tested Liqui Moly Sludge Remover to see how well it removed sludge from an old engine. A phone call to Liqui Moly headquarters in Germany helped clarify which product is stronger. Here's a hint, the said that their sludge remover product (# 5200) is not intended for the US market, but that the Engine Flush (# 2037) is. That doesn't stop 3rd parties from selling it on Amazon though.
Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush: amzn.to/3o93BMP
Liqui Moly Sludge Remover: amzn.to/40w6CIE
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - Авто та транспорт
Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush: amzn.to/3o93BMP
Liqui Moly Sludge Remover: amzn.to/40w6CIE
Step by step flush procedure:
1. Pour 1 can of Liqui Moly Sludge Remover into your engine.
2. Drive for 124 miles (200km) without wide open throttle operation.
3. Drain oil and change filter.
4. If you want to remove any remaining sludge, Refill oil to full capacity and run engine for 10 minutes or go for a short drive.
5. Drain oil again (to remove any remaining old oil and left over sludge) and change filter.
6. Add new oil and you are finished.
Please buy a funnel your giving me OCD
@@andy2906 ...and PLEASE catch that drain plug before it falls in that oil! 😂But, I really learned a lot from this video. THANKS OWEN LUCAS for doing this test ❤
@@jaywholoveseveryone1721 are YOU Talkin' to ME?
I want to know can we drive the car for some miles after adding engine flush
That risky free pour, this guy has balls
??
@@ramonciprino5880 how do you not get it?
"Sludge remover" sounds more powerful to me than "engine flush". Thank you for pointing out the difference.
Makes good sense when broken down. Sludge would be caked on, therefore over a lengthy amount of time with less abrasive contents to preserve the engine internals while driven.
So I've been a mechanic for 21 years... back in the day there was a machine called a motorvac system for engine flushing... drain oil, take off filter. Attach hoses and adapters to oil filter neck and drain plug... the machine was kept plugged in to an electrical outlet all the time to keep the solvent at 125 degrees or hotter (again this is years ago). Machine used a micron 3 (I believe) filter. Machine pumped this hot fluid through the engine 5 or 6 times, took about 30 min after hook up.. and when I tell you it FLUSHED EVERYTHING I'm not lying.. oil pressure was spot on.. and even weeks later the oil looked as if it was a new car... the stuff in a bottle works sure but gotta do it 5 or 6 consecutive times keeping engine hot and changing filter each time
That is quite a machine! I question what shops do nowadays but with equipment like that, you get what you pay for.
@@OwenLucas Well, you can make scuh a machine, easily. Electric heater for central heating, electric oil pump, and hoses. But, you can also use diesel, and flush it 2-3 times, thats cheaper method.
I remember watching someone do that while waiting for my vehicle. I was fascinated by it for some reason 😂
Company still exists. The machine you mention is discontinued. You can still get the manual off their site.
Yot engine was really dirty inside, and finały was cleaned after 200km, cause working longer and soecific could make his job.
Might be time to switch from a Bluetooth funnel to a real funnel 😂
He likes funholes
Good one!
Lol
I've seen people spill more oil with a funnel than this man did
Ha
Finally, someone that does full volume oil change before using a flush. 10-20%of old oil will remain. I perform a clean oil flush once a year. Let's the new oil perform better and for a longer time. The darkening of the oil is normal from heat and blowby contaminants. Heat new oil in a stainless steel pan, up to 220F, several times. It will become dark. A better way to measure the performance of these flush products is using oil particle count test. It measures all particulates from 4-30 microns, and is a recognized as an industry ISO standard for oil cleanliness. A full oil analysis costs about $40 USD. Good video, much better than 100s of videos on flushes that don't rinse the engine.
Interesting that heating the oil alone discolors it, the 126 mile drive was 2 hours almost non stop so the engine definitely got up to temperature.
@@OwenLucas keep up with methods, bring common sense to the many car myths out there.
Yes, this is completely correct, every oil becomes darker again after a short time, after just a "normal" oil change, without such a remedy, it can even look very black again, like after thousands of kilometers. Good to see if you manually measure the oil level on the stick.
The Liqui Moly still had a cleaning performance here, because particles could be seen again in the filter after only a few kilometers of driving.
So basically it close to $150.00 to do this. 4 oil changes (if you do it yourself) and engine flush.
how many oil changes before using the flush on a 65k mile car do you think is necessary to do a good flush?
On oil analysis for each one would have been the icing on the cake.
Man I been looking for a really in-dept video about the liqui moly engine flush and this is perfect!
I used Engine Flush on my 2005 Tacoma w/ 234k, with issues impacting the timing chain. Replacement of the chain was recommended to the tune of $4,500. $18 Engine Flush and 1 extra oil change to flush it all out, and my truck drives like new and no longer needs the repair. NO exaggeration, this stuff is awesome.
Glad to hear it worked out! 💪
That was awesome. Thx for taking the time to make this.
If you plan on flushing your oil, it's important to consider that 5-10% (not an exact figure) of the old oil may remain in the oil pump and other parts of the engine, even after draining. While flushing can help break down sludge and make it easier to drain through the oil drain, it's important to note that the contaminated 5-10% of old oil left behind can mix into the new oil, degrading its quality to some extent.
Keeping up with your recommended oil service intervals and using the recommended oil standards from your car manufacturer can help you change the oil before it degrades and forms carbon deposits. This will allow you to replace the old oil with new oil, keeping the lubricating benefits of the new oil and avoiding the need for engine flushing.
However, if you want to truly flush your engine, you can use an engine flush product with the old oil and then drain as much contaminated oil as possible. You can then top up the oil twice, once to dilute the remaining old oil with minimum negative deposits and then the second top up you can then add the new oil to complete the oil service and keep up with your oil service intervals to prevent future issues.
Using oil additives that enhance the engine oil can also be useful in preventing carbon build-up and extending service mileage, but it's still important to change the oil on the manufacturer's recommended mileage basis. Engine flushing may not be necessary or practical for every oil change, and it could be a waste of money if the oil is being changed correctly. However, it can be useful for older cars with high mileage.
Loo
Exponential decrease with oil changes.
If your car is abused by previous owner, good luck!
Best flush is add 1liter of kerosine to old oil, run for 10-30 minutes, not on idle but avoid heavy load for engine just light driving or some idle and moderate rev (2-2.5k rpm) on neutral. Drain everything, change oil filter use just cheapest one. Buy cheap synthetic or semi-synthetic oil 1.5 times quantity You need for Your engine. Remove Your spark plugs and add about 100ml of kerosine into every cylinder, leave it overnight. Next day turn engine with statrer still without sparkplugs to avoid hydrolock and remove excess kerosine from cylinders (probably there will be none anyway, all or most drain down to oil pan through piston rings softening carbon deposits but just to be safe check it). Put sparkplugs back. Now add 50:50 mix of oil and kerosine to Your engine top it off. Run it on neutral with moderate revving (or very very light driving) for 30-60 minutes. Drain everything, change oil filter for cheapest one. Top up engine with cheap oil to clean the residue. Drive on it short time like 100-300 hundred km/miles. Drain oil and replace oil filter. Now use quality oil and filter. You're ready to go. Change Your oil and filter often, I do it usually between 10-12kkm or 6-8k miles even my car manufacturer recommends like 20-30kkm/15-20kmiles oil changes which is ridiculous but welcome to europe.
This will not only clean the engine oil system, also piston rings and combustion chamber, big chance to reduce or even eliminate oil consumption of engine, make it run better. Many times oil consumption is not because of worn piston rings it's because they are stuck with carbon deposits (some natural due to long use of engine but mostly because not changing oil on time before).
If You willing to spend more money You add some engine flush instead of kerosine like 50% oil 25% of kerosine and 25% of engine flush, it will be even more effecient.
Don't use like some people 100% kerosine or diesel fuel instead of oil because You will have too low engine oil pressure so one you risk damaging engine second with low oil pressure and flow it doesn't work as well
Is it a myth that flushing an older engine causes it to spring leaks ?
Incredibly thorough! Love your attention to detail! Definitely subscribing.
Really good video quality and close ups. Thorough experiment with inconclusive results. Great effort. Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Yes, basically all it does show if you change your oil 3 times in a row it comes out clean.
What a video. Amazing, from my experience as I change my own oil, synthetic oil gets darker quicker than conventional oil due temperature, you can see this in other videos as well when they use pots with high heat, gunk in the oil will vary from engine to engine, as I remember my old Toyota pickup truck will get the oil pretty dark within 3000 miles and my Hyundai accent GDI was not as dark after 7000 miles and not as full of gunk as the old truck, but definitely color in newer oils is not actually an indicator as when heated will darker quickly anyways.
Best test i ever see in youtube thanks for your time and investement
I am glad someone on UA-cam has the brains the use a proper oil filter cutter. Everyone out here trying to kill themselves with an angle grinder or lose an eye with a sawzall.
Agreed, $25 well spent. Its tough looking at a filter cut with a saw as you cant tell what metal or contaminants are from the saw blade or the engine.
@@OwenLucas That's the issue with most of the reviewers just cutting into it with power tools. I can understands tin snips. But when they say try as best they can to not contaminate the filter but then proceed to cut with a power tool it makes their effort moot. Great job on the thought process. Subbing for that.
Great test, which is obviously very meaningful. The stuff works!
I love the video, straightforward no bs.
Liqui-Moly products just work! Great video.
Thank for the time,effort and money spent in the making of this video for other people benefit...salut
Good job. I never thought somebody would go through all this struggle. That was good information.
Very good effort you made for this video! Thank you very much!
Thank you for taking the time to do this. I'm getting my oil changed soon and this really helped me. 👍
Glad it helped!
Nice touch leaving the drain plug to get covered in the oil drain pan to annoy the OCD types X-D
To answer your last question you could have done another oil change after driving same km when added the sludge remover and see if the discolouring was due to driving that distance or due to the sludge remover.
Totally agree. I was going to write that exact same comment. I would have actually loved to see that, which would have truly completed the test.
Yep. Ended test early. Had no money for gas. Spent it all on oil. Regardless, great video!
I did two flushes with the sludge stuff in combination with cheap BUT SPECIFIED oil for my engine (a 1.9 JTDm). It worked wonders! I initially planned to do at least 3 flushes because the engine didn't look well maintained but this has been enough. I then filled up with high quality oil, also Liqui Moly and during every oil change and flush I used a new oil filter also a Bosch quality part. I'll repeat this process before the next oil change after 10k km and will probably continue to do so. To get it even more clean and let it stay clean. Engine has almost 200k km on it.
Is the engine in an Alpha Romeo 159? That is a beautiful car. Glad to see the flush worked out for you! A good oil with a lot of detergents will also help clean your engine between flushes.
I must ask where you found a 1.9 JTDm with less then 200 000km. The dash bight be showing that but trust me not a single one has that milage. None the less that is a very reliable engine. I suppose you got it in the Alfa 147 or 159 or in Fiat Stilo
10k is a pretty long interval
@@Druze_Tito not really. 6000 Miles. It's about average I would've thought
@@eponymous7910 average doesnt mean anything. It is too high. I dont recommend going more than 6000 km no matter the oil. If you love your car.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO MORE CONTENT ABOUT LIQUI MOLY PRODUCTS ❤
Great comparative video 👍🏿.
You should also compare that Bizol oil system clean+ o90, does a great job
Video is which i exactly looking for and thanks for effort
Questo è l'esperimento più completo che abbia mai visto.
Complimenti!!
Io tuttavia non uso i tuoi prodotti, uso il Liqui Moly Clean 1019
Non ho mai fatto le tue prove, ma sono convinto che un po' di pulizia all'interno del motore la faccia.
Grazie per i complimenti signore. Non ho sentito parlare di Motor Clean 1019. Non è disponibile negli Stati Uniti, ma vedrò se riesco a procurarmene uno. Liqui Moly produce così tanti prodotti che la loro gamma è davvero impressionante. Grazie ancora.
After these intense flushes its always an good idea to drop the oil pan and open the oil pickup filter and clean the pan. Sometimes the interior of the oil pan is painted and the flush can remove the paint and make it clog the oil pickup tube.
I prefer the new interchangeable filters :) with top mounting, no oil mess and way easier :)
The color of the Oil is not related its cleanness, If you boil Engine oil it turns dark/black. Do the test, put some engine oil on a pan and cook it for a couple hours you will see it turn black without absolutely no "contaminants".
I will take your word for it, no need for me to bring motor oil into the kitchen, my wife would be very mad! Very good point though, as a previous commenter mentioned, particle count would be the definitive test.
I second that. When I bought my new car I did an oil change at 500 miles and 1k miles and it was brown both times. It had little hint of gold but that’s about it.
Fresh oil also doesn’t come out that dark after 125 miles
@@Athiril if it is a diesel it will come out black. It is designed to.
@@Athiril Disagree
You have to remember that the Sump will have sludge that builds up over time and will get washed out with solvents.
To help prevent this condition use WD40 in with your oil. 1 cup will work fine and clean all internal parts and you will also find that oil changes will be abit fewer that you'll need as the engine is getting a gentle clean out. I did this with a 2008 Ford F250 Super Duty and great results happend as I let the WD40 work with my oil my engine has returned to near factory condition. One of my lash adjuster was starting to stick when the engine was at operating temp and light ticking was heard - on cold start up it was all quiet - So i tried this in adding WD40 and It sure worked and freed up what ever the stickiness was at the lash adjuster and no more tick .
Also beware, sometimes if the sludge is really heavy, it can end up clogging the oil pump pickup screen. Used to add a quart or half a quart of ATF to an oil change, the atf has amazing amounts of detergents in it to keep the transmission squeaky clean. Keep going forward with regular oil changes.
wouldnt that be hard on turbo bearings? if you drive a OEm turbo 4?
No it wont. So much detergents and emulgator in it.
Did you mean add to old oil to help flush and then drain, or to top off after fresh oil change. Thanks
@@slimsherman5818 That's correct, 500-1000 miles before the next oil change a shot of ATF into the engine oil. The biggest generator of nasty sludge is cold thermostats, short trips and crazy intervals between changes.
i hear this answer all the time everywhere. Be aware that using engine flush can clog the oil pump or the pickup screen. Have you ever seen how big is the pickup screen and how big are the gaps? If you can clog this pickup screen it means your engine is tearing apart not just sludge. To clog this screen you need pieces of the bearings or the pistons. It is not so simple to clog the pickup screen. And if the engine can clog because of this it means you need a change of engine not just sludge removers.
Good chance the color changed due to temperature from your drive. Oil turns black simply by getting hot, but the little chunks you got out are a good indication that the product was helping. Cool video, and at the end of the day it can't hurt to try and flush an engine. AMSOIL has a similar product as well.
No it doesn’t. If your oil discolors from getting hot, you have some seriously bad oil.
Blow-by occurs when combustion gases and possibly some unburned fuel pass by the piston rings and enter the crankcase. These gases can contain carbon from the combustion process, which then mixes with the engine oil, causing it to darken. If the piston rings are worn out or not sealing properly, blow-by can increase, leading to more rapid oil discoloration.
@@datsuntoyy Yes it does. It is a well-known characteristic in the oil industry around thermal/fluid dynamics. Simply heating oil in a beaker will turn the oil black. Now, there a many other factors which can contribute, but oxidation and heat will turn the oil from its gold color to black quite quickly. Project Farm has some great oil testing videos (much of which can be subjective) but he will heat up oil on hot plates and after 30 minutes of heat the oil is black.
@@cbidwell91 Burning oil will turn it black, ordinary use doesn't get that hot. I've seen plenty of oil samples in my 50 years of working on cars with a few hundred miles that have no color at all other than the light amber it comes with. Likewise, MANY years ago I've seen brand new oil that's nearly black.
Hot plates get a lot hotter than a car engine does. My car's maxes out at 220 (hottest I've ever seen it) yet my hot plate can get over twice that.
In his test he's heating it to 400 degrees and flashpoint of Mobil 1 5w-30 is 440 so he's heating it to nearly catching on fire. He also talks about the oil smoking, in cooking it's called the smoke point and oil burns when it his the smoke point.
Thanks for your research and due diligence on this important 🚗 engine topic.
I wonder how much the Engine Flush could clean out after running the Sludge Remover… Great vid!
Interesting question, you would hope it got everything.
Can we all appreciate the precision at 1:10?
Um, did you see the not precision at 3:14????
Very good test... . Thank you so much.
I think that 3.6 L GM V6's are very shootie engines when they combust fuel. I think the oil will get darker just by driving. Those little particles you found in the oil filters are just from driving and the oil collecting shoot. It was a fun video to watch though!
Beautiful demonstration!
Thank you!
Quart of diesel idle 10 minutes drop oil. Repeat if necessary. Seafoam in the crank works well too.
It definitely was a good cleaner as ive seen lighter oil on diesels after 200 miles since an oil change
What a detailed explanation...
Wonderful.. wonderful 👍
Thank you Sir!
The test was almost perfect!! Only part thaz missing is to keep the constant of 160miles drive between every single fill and drains (and you said it too). But good test tho overall!
Thank you! Yes, that's basically 2 hours of driving, would have been a lot of filming time lol.
@@OwenLucas yea, right! lol
To help answer your question about the darkness after the moly flush. Molybdenum disulfide is a dry lubricant somewhat similar to graphite. It’s a fine black powder mixed with whatever else is in the engine flush. The results can seem a little misleading. It gives the appearance of more contaminants being removed when really it just turns things dark. It’s used as a thickener in complex lithium moly grease. Great for ball joints and cv shaft bearings (not the tripod gears in the shaft). The thickening effect is why they recommend keeping away from full throttle circulation. The idea with the moly isn’t to clean anything but to coat the engine components allowing them to have the additional lubricating affect from the moly. Not sure there’s enough moly in the flush to have any real impact.
Very interesting points. I’ll have to check the MSDS to see if there is moly in the flush, if they even disclose that.
Would be interesting to see if LiquiMoly turns new oil on a new engine dark!
The part about thickening is interesting as I thought the solvents in the flush thinned the oil.
Thank you for your insights!
You forgot last part of experiment. Drive another 200 km now without any cleaning aditive and drain again. If you see significant difference between that and previous sample than it works; if it is again similarly dirty then it does not.
great video. did wish that you did 1 more oil change after the flush and see if 140 miles was dark again and if there were any particles.
I have a 2002 Subaru AWD outback over 250,000 + miles on the original four-cylinder engine smoking none of that stuff but 95% of those miles or all highway so I burned up most of your carbon and sludge because of that but now I'm doing a deep dive and going to give her a thorough cleaning and that includes dropping the oil pan cleaning out the pick up screen and oil pan you in a double flush and clean she's worth it she's been a super reliable car all over the United States including the Rocky mountains
Interesting, give it a flew flushes first, might be able to avoid pulling the pan off. Congrats on taking care of the car to 250k! 💪
@@OwenLucas she's been a remarkable car how many people underestimate the Subaru and how reliable they are just normal maintenance and these things will go forever
@@michaelmyers3892 make sure you replace the head gasket with the new MLS style if you haven't already done so
I would have sent the oil samples to get tested. You may discover that the sludge, and engine flush products may have also introduced contamination to the engine bearings... to begin that slow wear...especially if the additives also had an opportunity to bypass the oil filter.
Did you get the oil analysis from black stone? I change my STI oil every 2,000 miles so my oil comes out almost golden still so I don’t use additives but I bought a 2008 acura tl type s last ,moth and want to do the flush like in your other video.
I didn’t have a chance to. 2000 miles? You will never need a flush changing oil so frequently. I like the TL design of the 08 generation, very clean, have fun!
Very interesting thank you for the test!
More are coming soon!
Keep up with this content and you will reach 100k in no time, accurate testing, direct to the point, helpful information, can be better with better editing and camera work, also possible improvements in lubricity testing but this will happen naturally with time
Keep up this good content testing different products for cars (but not necessarily)
Great video 👍
very good test
Back in the day, we threw in a quart of kerosene and let the engine idle for 20 to 30 minutes. Then we changed the oil and filter.
Kerosene or diesel!!! Or... Trans fluid! Old school fix right there!
A bit of Trans fluid is a cheap lifter tick fix
@@jimizbikowski4112wont kerosene and diesel will make oil seals bcome bad ?
Great video! 👍👍👍
I use Engine Flush Pro (# 2037) every time I change oil (Once a year at 8-12k km). Engine is 1.8T from Audi. I idle the engine filed with Flush for 90-120 min (not the recommended 10 min). After 10 years of this treatment even 50 min idle does not dark oil much. There still is "dirt" in engine but to work with it Flush need 90 min minimum. Good quality 0W-30 oil is a little darker after year of use. In the past it was dark straight after oil change. Oil filter always have few small black pieces of sludge (I cut open them). Oil consumption is on the same level for years. It did decrease a little after first 2 years. I do recommend to use engine flush every oil change. Six times for 90 min then once a year.
wow 90-120 mins? 2 hours of idling?? that cant be good?
😂Not for your wallet and not for the environment
You are crazy 😅
I was taught that your oil turns black no matter how clean the engine is. There is always some stuff that gets past the rings on the piston and gets into the oil. Great video.
Gonna do a BG epr flush on a Camry with 165000 miles. I’m gonna change it twice but changing the oil filter one time because it’s a real pain dealing with. Should be fine.
I used fluch on my old ford transit mk6, I couldn't believe the result, there was no more smoke and the engine started with half a turn of the key. I recommend!!!
Great results!
You should have just used it and then did drain and fills to see if it continues to break off carbon after the oil is changed.. Thanks great vid..
Good experiment bro....
Thank you for this good video. Regarding the color of your oil I don’t think 200 miles drive is enough to make the oil look dark. It must be the result from Moly cleaning.
It's so. I use a cleaning additive from Mathy and I am absolutely convinced that these additives cause more dirt than a normal oil rinse would ever do.
I have a Nissan 370z and would monitor the color change of my oil over the 3K oil change interval I used. I found that even after 1K miles the oil would only be very slightly darker than when new. I would say that there would probably be no discernable change in color, unless you're running a diesel engine.
Great Video!!
The base line would be to see if you actually had any sludge build up in the first place by taking off the valve cover. I guess the only thing you did really was super clean your engine. (Never a bad thing)
Good job test 🎉
Thank you sir!
Very informative.. thanks
Can u pls tell me if I need the same amount of flush oil that's come out of the engine or can I use half of it ?
You have to use the same amount of oil.
Hey, noce video. But whats the name of the tool you ised to open the oil filter?
Please try some Archoil or Oilsyn Powercleaner... I used to use LM, but after I came across the AR stuff, which I consider to be the best ones on the market, I will never try anything else
I change my oil every 7500-10,000 km (4700-6250 Mi)which is every 6 months in my case, and every time I look at the oil dipstick it's so clean, I learned this from my old 70's car where I was forced to change it due to oil loss, and that car had done over 380,000km (237,500 Mi)and still flew like a rocket, new oil and filter keeps your engine clean and the most important thing, your seals nice and soft.
But since the sludge remover is weaker to be able to be used while driving 124 miles i think it could still overall clean out a engine better than normal engine flush thats run at idle as it gets longer to work and the revs might get it into other parts of the engine like vvt which might not happen at idle though ive heard that can also cause issues if you flush sludge and block the vvt filter screen with sludge
That is a very good point, especially about the vvt screen.
Always replace vvt screen after flush. When you are at idle than no harm can be done
Helpful video, could you say which one is the best to clean up sludge on pistons and valves?
According to the LiquiMoly engineer that I spoke with. The pro-Line Engine Flush is the most powerful of their engine flushes. Regarding the valves, you will need a specific valve cleaner. Techron is works great along with LiquiMoly 2001 Valve Clean.
@@OwenLucas thanks! 👍🏼
As one of hondas engine engineers said, never do this to a high mileage engine as it could cause more problems by clogging holes with debris. Leave the engine as it is
Is this true
@@eviltwo7950
No idea about what a Honda engineer said. However, it's for the same reason it is not recommended to do a tranny flush in a high mileage car that has never had one done before.
Very well could develop leaks or worsen pre-existing leaks on higher mileage vehicles this goes for all makes n models
in here many people have decent success cleaning engine sludge with oil brand pertamina mesran B40 mixed with 10% palm cooking oil. It is limited to 10% because more can cause filter jam. No need for engine overhaul. And it is used normally as usual engine oil.
The alternative for other country would be diesel engine oil with group 1 base oil, usually have pour point between -6 to -10 degree celcius. For cool place, corn cooking oil can be used as replacement.
I would stick to just diesel in that case.
@@OwenLucas Many of those people failed to get result from many engine flush product including 100% diesel fuel.
Engine flush do not produce filter oil jam at all because they are mostly useless in cleaning sludge.
The end result is not comparable at all.
@@OwenLucas I used to use mesran B40 diesel oil and I would also stick to it as you do since it has 10+ TBN with roughly 1500ppm of zinc content.
You would never know what are fatty acids in the palm cooking oil can really do to your engine when they react with combustion byproducts (especially in a diesel engine), using high sulfur fuel as we had here.
Thanks for the video,
I recently bought Mercedes 2013 Vito van 122 CDI V6 engine. I’m really keen to add CeraTec Liqui moly oil additive just wondering does that do any harm for engine or cause any oil leaking any recommendation or any experience you have is Highly appreciate it .
I’ve heard nothing but good things about ceratech. It’s an additive not a cleaner. Shouldn’t cause any leaks at all.
wonderful video
Good morning, Blessings, Greetings from San Carlos, Costa Rica, Pura Vida, question, I am new to this, which of the 2 liquids is first added to the engine, the engine cleaner or the mud remover, which is added first.
This was very interesting. The only mistake was the use of Sogefi Group filteration products, (Fram) don't, they're of poor quality IMO.
I would recommen using diesel oil because it had high TBN which cleaning engine, it will clean your engine from sludge slowly without cloging your oil pump pick up screen.
Good test
I did a BG oil flush, and then a further 4 oil and filter changes. I do have to stress at this point the moter was a diesel. The final oil at a cost of after £200 was light. Within 20 miles of driving it was black as the Ace of Spades. The car was a VW Golf TDi 1.9 BXE engine. My uncle a mechanic of many years standing came and gave me a kick up the jacksie, he said you have just wasted £200, and worse still so many hours, days and time. People buy carsfor the sum I spent in oil changes and flushes!
Yeah 1 drain is enough, but at least your engine is super clean!
I really enjoy this video 📹.
Good job thanks 👍👍👍👍
Interesting product.👍
nice test. appreciate
Thank you!
My advice, run the cheapest oil for very short intervals like 1 2 weeks and under 1000 miles. Drain, repeat a few times. I buy oil in bulk like 20 liter jugs and do this to any car I buy then switch to a higher quality oil and 6 month or 5k miles intervals ( this applies to me only and will vary with usage track or grocery getting ).
Great point!
No the low milage drive would not change the motor oil that dark. I would say its due to removal of contaminates after the final oil drain with sludge remover.
i really thank you for sharing your video with us 🙏🌹🌹🌹
My pleasure 😊
After seeing this video, I need full engine opening video, to confirm my doub
There's already solvents in synthetic oil from what I've seen, i left oil on a red funnel & wiped it with a white cloth to see red come off it
They make a thing called a funnel, they work great
What did you do with the oil filled with the 3rd oil change ? Is it ok to use this (almost clear) oil again ?
Bottled it up for my next oil change, completely good oil. 👍
fast flushing can only do so much. run Royal Purple for repeated oil changes and be prepared to change filters between changes.
The blackness of the oil depends on whether your vehicle is Diesel or Petrol engine. In Diesel engine, the oil becomes black within few miles of driving which is very much normal. And the blackness of the oil is not due to flushing, but that's how it should be naturally. No need to flush.
So I’m considering doing this on my car and I mainly talking about the oil change after oil change after oil change to get some of the free, floating sludge out. My question is can you use the cheapest oil and filter possible for the ones that you are rinsing through and then throwing away? And then on the final one just put the proper spec oil? Also I am doing some research on engine flushes because I have a direct injection Audi V6 motor with a turbo and I’m having issues with mild oil consumption. Also, I saw a video on here of a guy using something called B12 and he poured it right down the hole where the spark plugs go let it sit for six hours, then rotate it and then repeat the steps.
Definitely use a cheap oil filter for the flush.
Regarding the B12 Chemtool. It can be used for a piston soak to free up the oil control rings which have most likely jammed and are letting oil into the combustion chamber. It’s worth a shot and I’ve heard some people have success.
I once tried using cooking oil to clean the oil sludge in my car, with a ratio of 50:50, after 4000 kilometers, the LO sludge all collapsed.
Were you running the vehicle before the oil change intervals? And for how long?
Yes, 20 minutes of idling.