Anyone watching this should know that the inserts inside the barrels shouldn't be that loose of a fit. They depend on vacuum to draw the fuel and should fit tighter. Mine had the same problem years ago, I used a thin brass feeler gauge in the other side. You can also add an O ring or a set screw on the outside. You can also look into an O2 Sensor to tune the carb. Easier to tell when it's fat/lean and where it happens.
Thank you! My dgv is set up waaay too rich for my 1.3L Suzuki Samurai and a thorough vid like this is a tremendous help in understanding where I may need to start with the jets.
This video is awesome, I wanted to see a video that helps me understand the Weber Jets so I can tune my carb, and this video did it for me, after searching around for a long time.
Very informative...I am in process of rebuilding a dfev that sat for a looooong time and the video is going to help me. If you know how something works it is much easier to rebuild and troubleshoot. Thanks
Accelerator pump valve assy that holds the “squirter” in place is actually a check valve with a bb in it. Shake to ensure bb is free, blow and suck lightly to ensure check valve function while covering two side holes. Do not use carb or brake cleaner as it has a nylon insert inside. Better still, just replace it when you rebuild. Most kits dont have this part.
Would you happen to know if it would be in my best interest to copy what jets you're using in my off the Moss shelf DGV? I have an '80 MGB 18V with some mods.. Mild cam, trophy exhaust, lighter flywheel, double timing chain, 8.7:1 pistons? Thank you for the videos!
Great video. Thank you very much. I now have a DGV on my '59 Alfa Romeo. 1300cc motor (with 1400 kit and heavier 2 liter cams). Any suggestions on idle jet sizing? It is very tough to keep running at idle. Thank you!
I have a question for u . Would u mind telling me what the little brass peices that r all the way at the ends of the jet rail.i will send u a pic once u agree to answer my question. Please and thank you.
I have a weber 32/36 that I just installed on a 1979 MGB; but when accelerating and taking the car to 4500 rpm, the car stays at those 4500 rpm even though the carburetor is at idle speed. I have to rev it several times until it backfires and then drops the rpm to 1000. How can I fix this problem?
I'm thought was just 2 jets and would have made my day ! maybe you can help me! I have a 1987 chevy sprint 3 cycle/with this same weber carb. (old carb was a mess and 20 + vacuum lines.) I got it running. (RuFF). when choked to max ....it will crank barely.. its like too much air... if was possible get more choke .. lol.. it would idle out perfect I bet. I luv the basic carb... plzz help. old carb was japan make.. /when tried rebuild.. chit fell -out.. moved/ 3rd rebuild went to hell lol.... I made a plate and all sealed good. This carb seems a bit big 4 my motor... hoped it adjust out cause the type this 1 is!
booger boogie I guarantee you your way to rich, it would start if it was lean, but you'd have detonation, if it was super rich, which it probably is cause it's on a tiny 3 cylinder, it'll basically flood it out with too much fuel. start with you fuel mixture screw, bottom it out and then unscrew it 1 and 1/2 turns, then unscrew your idle screw until it doesn't touch the throttle lever, then give it 1 turn in and then try to start it. if you have to screw the mixture screw in more then 1 turn your way to rich, that should give you something to work with
I hope someone can answer my question. I have the same exact carburetor and I was wondering do these Jets get clogged up with gunk? Or the emulsifier things? My car is hesitating a lot in first gear but in second third and fourth it goes perfect. I think something is gummed up in the carburetor. Does this sound right to you guys?
Good day please if you can hep me a have 32/36 weber a strip and clean it all on the second states straggle to ref up if you open it ful trottle it refs up please if you can make a video to show what is the problem on mine
i don't understand: primary main jet (32) =150 and secundary main jet (36)=140 Isn't it in the first (small mouth) the small jet and in the second (large mouth) the largest jet?
Best explanation of how a Weber works I have seen.
Currently rebuilding and degunking a weber 32/36, this has been extremely helpful in explaining what is going on and how to pull it apart.
Anyone watching this should know that the inserts inside the barrels shouldn't be that loose of a fit. They depend on vacuum to draw the fuel and should fit tighter. Mine had the same problem years ago, I used a thin brass feeler gauge in the other side. You can also add an O ring or a set screw on the outside. You can also look into an O2 Sensor to tune the carb. Easier to tell when it's fat/lean and where it happens.
best explanation of the emulsion jet and air correctors i have seen so far after a lot of searching.
thanks for the video!
Thank you! My dgv is set up waaay too rich for my 1.3L Suzuki Samurai and a thorough vid like this is a tremendous help in understanding where I may need to start with the jets.
This video is awesome, I wanted to see a video that helps me understand the Weber Jets so I can tune my carb, and this video did it for me, after searching around for a long time.
Thank you for doing this. It's really helping me.
I bet the camera man is going to be an engineer when he gets older.
Awesome video
very good instructions, been having idle condition, after carbs are 2 to 3 years after being new.
What a great video. Thank you!
GREAT vid, thanks a ton !!
Very informative...I am in process of rebuilding a dfev that sat for a looooong time and the video is going to help me. If you know how something works it is much easier to rebuild and troubleshoot. Thanks
Accelerator pump valve assy that holds the “squirter” in place is actually a check valve with a bb in it. Shake to ensure bb is free, blow and suck lightly to ensure check valve function while covering two side holes. Do not use carb or brake cleaner as it has a nylon insert inside. Better still, just replace it when you rebuild. Most kits dont have this part.
Would you happen to know if it would be in my best interest to copy what jets you're using in my off the Moss shelf DGV? I have an '80 MGB 18V with some mods.. Mild cam, trophy exhaust, lighter flywheel, double timing chain, 8.7:1 pistons? Thank you for the videos!
using this info for my toyota =)
Great video. Thank you very much. I now have a DGV on my '59 Alfa Romeo. 1300cc motor (with 1400 kit and heavier 2 liter cams). Any suggestions on idle jet sizing? It is very tough to keep running at idle. Thank you!
thx for the video. I stumbled over it trying to find a reason why my 36 dcd is running badly at 2000 rpm. I still don't know why though
Ever find out?
hello. i wonder how the inner venturis effect? and what sizes should be good for 1200cc engine?
My secondary chamber is carbon coated. Would that be from my auxiliary vernuti tube being plugged?
Hi I have a32/36 dgav on the secondary side their is a diaphragm. can i run without that diaphragm
I have a question for u . Would u mind telling me what the little brass peices that r all the way at the ends of the jet rail.i will send u a pic once u agree to answer my question. Please and thank you.
I have a weber 32/36 that I just installed on a 1979 MGB; but when accelerating and taking the car to 4500 rpm, the car stays at those 4500 rpm even though the carburetor is at idle speed. I have to rev it several times until it backfires and then drops the rpm to 1000. How can I fix this problem?
I'm thought was just 2 jets and would have made my day ! maybe you can help me! I have a 1987 chevy sprint 3 cycle/with this same weber carb. (old carb was a mess and 20 + vacuum lines.) I got it running. (RuFF). when choked to max ....it will crank barely.. its like too much air... if was possible get more choke .. lol.. it would idle out perfect I bet. I luv the basic carb... plzz help. old carb was japan make.. /when tried rebuild.. chit fell -out.. moved/ 3rd rebuild went to hell lol.... I made a plate and all sealed good. This carb seems a bit big 4 my motor... hoped it adjust out cause the type this 1 is!
booger boogie I guarantee you your way to rich, it would start if it was lean, but you'd have detonation, if it was super rich, which it probably is cause it's on a tiny 3 cylinder, it'll basically flood it out with too much fuel. start with you fuel mixture screw, bottom it out and then unscrew it 1 and 1/2 turns, then unscrew your idle screw until it doesn't touch the throttle lever, then give it 1 turn in and then try to start it. if you have to screw the mixture screw in more then 1 turn your way to rich, that should give you something to work with
+chris webster wumv
I hope someone can answer my question. I have the same exact carburetor and I was wondering do these Jets get clogged up with gunk? Or the emulsifier things? My car is hesitating a lot in first gear but in second third and fourth it goes perfect. I think something is gummed up in the carburetor. Does this sound right to you guys?
1. камера 180 на 150
2. камера 175 на 140...
какой же там объём движка?? )
what of the volume of the engine?? thanks!
Good day please if you can hep me a have 32/36 weber a strip and clean it all on the second states straggle to ref up if you open it ful trottle it refs up please if you can make a video to show what is the problem on mine
i don't understand:
primary main jet (32) =150
and secundary main jet (36)=140
Isn't it in the first (small mouth) the small jet and in the second (large mouth) the largest jet?
Not always...every engine will require a different set up. Have fun!
do you have an email?