Why didn't you attach the T10 ribbon line down into place? I've always attached that and on the GG you are working on in the video, the point for it is just under the main ribbon center where that small bit sticks out. You fold it under and solder it onto the small point marked as T10 near the lower left section of the IC. I tend to install the LCD connection portion of the ribbon flex first to help get that nice and lined up along with the point for the SMS pin 2 section. As you noted, it is much easier to do that with out the LCD in place yet. The only other main thing you need to know as I've installed a few of these now and had 2 of them get sent back after a month or so where the just come up with a blank screen playing blind. The clock signal you solder onto FB1 is very thin on the ribbon flex and seems to break at the solder point easily over time. So I've been installing an additional section of kynar from the FB1 pad back to the clock pad on the LCD in addition to the ribbon flex soldering to make sure. I've brought this issue up with Ben and he is planning a redesign of that section of the flex. Really the trace just needs to be thicker there I think. Nice job!
Eagle eye! I spotted this while I was testing and couldn't play SG-1000 games, as they came out black and white and terrible, went back in and saw the missing connection, but was too tired to record an additional segment. Can't sneak anything past the internet :D This ribbon doesn't seem to need that little leg folded under, as there's a via in the main ribbon covering T10 that you can solder down in place. Interesting note about the CLK and FB1 connection, it feels pretty solid to me but I'll give it some playing with and see. Maybe this is a newer revision of the ribbon than you've worked with?
@@silvestronsbitsandbytes The ribbon you have shown looks like the others I've used and my mentioning of this was only about a month back. So I don't think he has redesigned that part of the ribbon as yet. And again, the connection still seemed solid on the two I had, but they were just black screens and sure enough, the clk signal wasn't making contact anymore. So a small jumper wire from FB1 to the clk pad took care of them. As a result of this, as I stated I've taken to just soldering in the extra wire to be sure.
I"m here for the final product. I just mailed my Game Gear into WarioParty for this same upgrade. I want to see the final results because I can't wait 😂
It's such a worthwhile upgrade, you won't be disappointed. Even if you don't go the "name brand" and use the cheapie kits off AliExpress, they breathe so much life into the GG! Enjoy it!
It depends on the LCD kit you get. With the BennVenn kit, there's no trimming needed. Some of the earlier Chinese McWills knock-offs needed trimming, though the newer ones don't! The only thing you need to trim across the board is the middle screw post, as it interferes with the new bigger screens.
Hello, I see that where the 68uf capacitor goes, you replaced it with a 100uf one. It is impossible for me to find a 68uf replacement, do you think there would be no problem if I also included one of 100? Thank you!
Hey! This unit was recapped before I got to it, and I didn't even notice that. Good eye! You should be able to easily find 68uF caps from Mouser, Digikey or Element14 suppliers. I couldn't guarantee no problem with replacing it with a 100uF. Looking at the schematic, it's connected between a transistor and an LCD pin "VM" who's purpose I'm not sure about, but doesn't seem to be used when an LCD replacement kit is used... all that to say yes, you're probably fine with using 100uF!
I've been battling with the idea of doing this or not. Part of me doesn't want to because of the "retro" point as well as this was my childhood console BUT, the video at this point is so hard to see that it's really unplayable. I am hesitant because frankly doing the re-capping was testing to my skillset but Retrosix is supposed to have more kits in on the 8th and that looks a bit easier. One question for you though, what is the name of that cartridge that has all the roms on it?
I do agree that keeping the original screen is keeping it more authentic, but to actually enjoy the system and games (without emulation) imo you basically have to upgrade to an IPS LCD these days. The original screens are just garbage now. The flash cart is a Flash Gear Pro and it takes roms on a microSD card, can find them on AliExpress for relatively cheap!
Heya! I almost always run my iron at 400c, but I've gotten a good feel for how hot that is, how my tips transmit heat, and how long to linger on joints and wires etc. I recommend people set theirs to around 340c for most day to day leaded or unleaded soldering!
Looks great but for all I'd ever decide to use it, the price is not appealing. Especially considering the alternatives these days, such as the Miyoo Mini Plus at the same price (often cheaper) for a whole console with packed SD card and rechargeable battery. I had a Game Gear back in the day, repurchased a few since. I understand the whole "revisiting the past" concept, but I can't say the nostalgia is really there. Never cared for the shape or feel of the thing nor the battery life. My only takeaway was The Lucky Dime Caper Starring Donald Duck and Sonic 2. A neighbor had Mortal Kombat 1 and I was envious at the time. I left my console plugged in beside my bed when I was a kid to play whenever I felt like it. One day it just wouldn't power on and so I decided to tear it apart. Only I didn't have the special driver. so I twisted the case around struggling and ended up just smashing it. I look back on those dark times an wish I could revive the things I massacred back then due to lack of patience and knowledge. It probably wasn't the console, even. Just the power supply burning up. It will forever haunt me not knowing the answer. I also broke one before this by slamming it down too hard while fighting a boss in Sonic 2 back in the day. That one was the tube, for sure. No idea what ever happened to that one. Hey, did you hear I wrote a book? Alright, that's enough now. Nice job. Clean your tip.
Fair enough! I don't know, I just love the form factor and games, and they feel so comfortable in my hands. Definitely my favourite handheld of the era. I never had one when they were new, so maybe that's something to do with it!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Why didn't you attach the T10 ribbon line down into place? I've always attached that and on the GG you are working on in the video, the point for it is just under the main ribbon center where that small bit sticks out. You fold it under and solder it onto the small point marked as T10 near the lower left section of the IC. I tend to install the LCD connection portion of the ribbon flex first to help get that nice and lined up along with the point for the SMS pin 2 section. As you noted, it is much easier to do that with out the LCD in place yet. The only other main thing you need to know as I've installed a few of these now and had 2 of them get sent back after a month or so where the just come up with a blank screen playing blind. The clock signal you solder onto FB1 is very thin on the ribbon flex and seems to break at the solder point easily over time. So I've been installing an additional section of kynar from the FB1 pad back to the clock pad on the LCD in addition to the ribbon flex soldering to make sure. I've brought this issue up with Ben and he is planning a redesign of that section of the flex. Really the trace just needs to be thicker there I think. Nice job!
Eagle eye! I spotted this while I was testing and couldn't play SG-1000 games, as they came out black and white and terrible, went back in and saw the missing connection, but was too tired to record an additional segment. Can't sneak anything past the internet :D This ribbon doesn't seem to need that little leg folded under, as there's a via in the main ribbon covering T10 that you can solder down in place.
Interesting note about the CLK and FB1 connection, it feels pretty solid to me but I'll give it some playing with and see. Maybe this is a newer revision of the ribbon than you've worked with?
@@silvestronsbitsandbytes The ribbon you have shown looks like the others I've used and my mentioning of this was only about a month back. So I don't think he has redesigned that part of the ribbon as yet. And again, the connection still seemed solid on the two I had, but they were just black screens and sure enough, the clk signal wasn't making contact anymore. So a small jumper wire from FB1 to the clk pad took care of them. As a result of this, as I stated I've taken to just soldering in the extra wire to be sure.
Does this fully dim/off or just dimmer than bright?
I"m here for the final product. I just mailed my Game Gear into WarioParty for this same upgrade. I want to see the final results because I can't wait 😂
It's such a worthwhile upgrade, you won't be disappointed. Even if you don't go the "name brand" and use the cheapie kits off AliExpress, they breathe so much life into the GG! Enjoy it!
I heard you need to trim the sides of the plastic frame a but to fit the screen, is that true? is the image being cut off?
It depends on the LCD kit you get. With the BennVenn kit, there's no trimming needed. Some of the earlier Chinese McWills knock-offs needed trimming, though the newer ones don't! The only thing you need to trim across the board is the middle screw post, as it interferes with the new bigger screens.
Hello, I see that where the 68uf capacitor goes, you replaced it with a 100uf one. It is impossible for me to find a 68uf replacement, do you think there would be no problem if I also included one of 100? Thank you!
Hey! This unit was recapped before I got to it, and I didn't even notice that. Good eye! You should be able to easily find 68uF caps from Mouser, Digikey or Element14 suppliers.
I couldn't guarantee no problem with replacing it with a 100uF. Looking at the schematic, it's connected between a transistor and an LCD pin "VM" who's purpose I'm not sure about, but doesn't seem to be used when an LCD replacement kit is used... all that to say yes, you're probably fine with using 100uF!
I've been battling with the idea of doing this or not. Part of me doesn't want to because of the "retro" point as well as this was my childhood console BUT, the video at this point is so hard to see that it's really unplayable. I am hesitant because frankly doing the re-capping was testing to my skillset but Retrosix is supposed to have more kits in on the 8th and that looks a bit easier. One question for you though, what is the name of that cartridge that has all the roms on it?
I do agree that keeping the original screen is keeping it more authentic, but to actually enjoy the system and games (without emulation) imo you basically have to upgrade to an IPS LCD these days. The original screens are just garbage now.
The flash cart is a Flash Gear Pro and it takes roms on a microSD card, can find them on AliExpress for relatively cheap!
Hi, what is the temperature of your iron?
Heya! I almost always run my iron at 400c, but I've gotten a good feel for how hot that is, how my tips transmit heat, and how long to linger on joints and wires etc.
I recommend people set theirs to around 340c for most day to day leaded or unleaded soldering!
great video by the way, really appreciated the quick reply@@silvestronsbitsandbytes
Looks great but for all I'd ever decide to use it, the price is not appealing. Especially considering the alternatives these days, such as the Miyoo Mini Plus at the same price (often cheaper) for a whole console with packed SD card and rechargeable battery. I had a Game Gear back in the day, repurchased a few since. I understand the whole "revisiting the past" concept, but I can't say the nostalgia is really there. Never cared for the shape or feel of the thing nor the battery life. My only takeaway was The Lucky Dime Caper Starring Donald Duck and Sonic 2. A neighbor had Mortal Kombat 1 and I was envious at the time.
I left my console plugged in beside my bed when I was a kid to play whenever I felt like it. One day it just wouldn't power on and so I decided to tear it apart. Only I didn't have the special driver. so I twisted the case around struggling and ended up just smashing it. I look back on those dark times an wish I could revive the things I massacred back then due to lack of patience and knowledge. It probably wasn't the console, even. Just the power supply burning up. It will forever haunt me not knowing the answer. I also broke one before this by slamming it down too hard while fighting a boss in Sonic 2 back in the day. That one was the tube, for sure. No idea what ever happened to that one. Hey, did you hear I wrote a book? Alright, that's enough now. Nice job. Clean your tip.
Fair enough! I don't know, I just love the form factor and games, and they feel so comfortable in my hands. Definitely my favourite handheld of the era. I never had one when they were new, so maybe that's something to do with it!
I special logged, when send DISLIKE.
It was very bad soldering, who i seed
Sorry you feel that way! I don't exactly tout myself as a master soldererer and have no formal training... do you have any pointers or suggestions?