Update: The issue with the motor jittering during calibration has been resolved with the latest firmware update. New pre-configured profiles are now available for some lenses; however, it’s still not possible to create or name custom profiles. The lens calibration process doesn’t have to be exactly at 1m and 4.50m. For instance, if there are issues with close focus, the near calibration can be done at up to 0.5m instead. However, depending on the lens, this might result in the focus being slightly off in the middle range. Whether calibrating above or below 1m makes sense depends on the lens and needs to be tested on a case-by-case basis. IMPORTANT: Some lenses have a focus ring that behaves somewhat erratically. Since only two calibration points are currently supported, this can lead to the focus being accurate only at those specific points, with varying levels of blurriness in between. Right now, I have a complete Lens Set that’s not usable for exactly this reason.
Hi! ¡Great and very honest review indeed!! Ok, i need to ask... is possible to set the lens limits manually and skip the auto calibration? My lens (Rokinons) are passing the infinity mark. Thanks!!
@@javierb1535 That’s not a problem. In the menu that you swipe down from the top and within the motor calibration, you can manually set the endpoints. I show the menu briefly in the video and mention the manual endpoints.
@@javierb1535 Yes, you do need a power source that supports PD, but then it works. Physically, it’s a bit inconvenient to have to mount an extra power bank somewhere and run the charging cable to the lower Front of the handle, but it does work.
@@AltCine Thanks, but to be fair, I did place more emphasis on the negative aspects than the product might have deserved... I hope I made that clear enough at the beginning of the video.
@@deadendboredom yeah that's fine. It's just good to see both sides. I think these products are ok but I don't think they're fully ready yet. My hope is that one day these systems (with electronic lenses/adapters) can read lens data through the camera or a usb port on the lens and everything syncs up eliminating the need for calibration etc. This would be perfect for cameras like Blackmagic, RED etc that have electronics but no AF.
I hope someone at DJI sees this video. What a great description you made of this product. The incompatibility of the batteries seems to me to be a design error that could have been solved during development and that would solve one of the biggest problems of this product: the duration of its batteries.
I have mine and I love it. My biggest gripe is the lidar placement and the hot shoe. I wish DJI had a better attachment that can make it close to the lens view. The parallax error can be annoying when you are trying to do close-up. Second I wish the mini screen could replicate the point of view of the lens finder. We only have 2 options. Wide or 2x. As for first-generation products, I think it's incredible. Hopefully, they will fix this via firmware or come out with an attachment to the lidar where it can sit close to the lens.
@@antonkochlauritsen7606 The track doesn’t have a name you could look up because I composed the music myself and haven’t released it anywhere else. I’m glad you liked it.
@@Juaansi With a cage that has a NATO rail on the side, it’s definitely compatible and makes handling the 6K a bit easier than usual. However, even with the grip, the camera still doesn’t realy become ergonomic.
@@michaelfrymus If there’s a D-Tap to USB-C PD solution, then yes-the handle can only be powered with PD during operation. When you say “handle,” do you mean just the battery grip or the entire handle unit? If it’s only the battery grip, theoretically it’s not required. However, I haven’t found a power plate like the one used for the gimbal that provides the lower voltage needed. If you mean the entire handle unit, then yes, it’s actually necessary to use LiDAR, with one exception: if you’re using the DJI Video Transmission (the big one)
If you've got the all in one combo, one can avoind the jumpy focus on calibration using the FIZ. Simply turn i on when calibrating and use the focus wheel on the FIZ instead of the handgrip. Makes calibration process much easier, especially if one has 5-7 lenses to calibrate..
Also, prior starting calibration, I actually would recommend to go to flexspot mode (small square on the left of the screen in video preview), and tap on screen so the focus is on the target, and then press the trigger button. The target will show yellow instead of white and will track the target while you're focusing, and will show the correct distance to the target but not anything around, especially useful on wider lenses.
@@alexlubensky Are you referring to the Hand Unit when you say FIZ? I was actually planning to get the Hand Unit soon, but I’m still unsure... Maybe you can help answer a few questions? Does autofocus still work when the Hand Unit is connected and not the handle, or is manual focus the only option with the Hand Unit? Are all the necessary cables included with the Hand Unit? It seems like there’s only a D-Tap to USB-C cable for the motor. Some time ago, there was also a breakout box, but I haven't seen it recently.
@@deadendboredom yeah I was referring to Hand Unit. Basically it works wireless, meaning if the Pro Grip is connected one can use it to override autofocus in AMF mode, or use it manually like a regular FIZ Unit. No additional cables needed if you opt to use it together with Pro Grip, and if one wants to use it with DJI transmission system and monitor - then you can use the included d-tap to usb-c cable to power the motor (beware that one can’t do so when using Pro Grip, it will fry the grip and the grip can’t control the focus motor wirelessly). Basically it’s a separate solution where the brain of the system is the Wireless Monitor, made for crewed gigs
@@deadendboredom once the Hand Unit is turned on it overrides control from the Pro Grip, if they are used simultaneously. The Pro Grip acts as the brain of the system to track subjects when using autofocus, and if set to AMF a 1AC can override it at any moment, or switch to MF and focus manually. It doesn’t show distances on the Hand unit though, only the Wireless Monitor is showing proper distance markers
@@deadendboredom basically if you plan to use it alone there’s no reason to purchase the hand unit. I’ve got it because only the all in one combo was available atm, and I do sometimes work with crews and lazy enough to swap between Nucleus M and DJI focus pro
Does the LiDAR unit improve ActiveTrack gimbal auto-tracking? How well does LiDAR-enabled tracking work in less ideal light? Under what conditions does it fail to follow a subject, and under what conditions does it succeed in re-acquiring a temporarily obscured subject? I'm having trouble finding any video demonstrations of this.
@@myerssamuel1057 Active motion tracking from the gimbal isn’t enhanced by the focus unit. Focus: For example, if a person being tracked is momentarily blocked by an object between them and the lens, the focus will shift to the foreground object. Once the person is visible again, the tracking resumes. To prevent this, you’ll need to intervene by holding the focus wheel on the handle. I’ll get back to you shortly with more details on how it performs in different lighting conditions.
@@myerssamuel1057 I’m not sure if the RS4’s ActiveTrack truly benefits from the LiDAR, as I don’t own an RS4 myself. However, the following insights might clarify where the LiDAR actually helps and where it doesn’t. With LiDAR, regular autofocus without tracking is very reliable - even in complete darkness, the focus locks onto whatever is centered in the focus box. For person-tracking autofocus, I’ve found it works down to around 7 LUX (ISO 6400, f1.8); beyond that, it starts to become unreliable. If the RS4’s ActiveTrack operates through the Raven Eye using the actual camera feed, then tracking autofocus would, for example, be much more reliable on a Sony camera set to ISO 12800 f1.2 than through the LiDAR unit alone. This is because the LiDAR unit relies only on its own built-in camera for tracking, which isn’t as light-sensitive as the professional camera sensor.
@@deadendboredom Are you saying ActiveTrack relies on the LiDAR camera and NOT on the LiDAR itself? That's confusing. I thought ActiveTrack with LiDAR used the LiDAR to find and track the subject, and the that camera on the LiDAR was only to display on the Gimbal screen the framing area of the LiDAR and the location of the tracked target the LiDAR was seeing. That way you can make sure the subject in both LiDAR and camera are somewhat in the same area. I guess I need to find better documentation on these units.
@@myerssamuel1057 Let’s set ActiveTrack aside for now, as I don’t have the RS4. What I’m quite sure of, though, is that object recognition does not work via LiDAR alone. The camera in the sensor is responsible for tracking and determining the location, and then the LiDAR measures the distance to that specific point. LiDAR itself can only measure distances to points - it can’t recognize objects. A “regular” camera, on the other hand, can recognize objects but can’t measure distance. Here, the two technologies work together, each complementing the other’s capabilities. That’s at least my understanding of it.
@@beatboxxdannyschwarzboxing9768 Any male-to-female USB-C 3.2 extension cable should technically work, since you still use the original cable with the correctly fitting connector housing on the grip. So, this extension cable becomes less critical. I can only send you the Amazon Germany link, and I’m not sure if it’s available in your country or if I can even post the link here. amzn.eu/d/04VU6qL
Das war Mal eine ehrliche Meinung und aufwendig gestaltetes Review. Respekt das du dir die Mühe gemacht hast aber wenn man Filmemacher ist sollte man Liebe in seine Arbeit reinstecken top Arbeit 👍
@@rezjrprod Hard to say without a common reference point… From what I can tell, the motor is stronger than I’d expected, and so far, it’s handled every lens I’ve tried with no issues. That said, I haven’t tested it with any older lenses that might have stiffer focus rings. I might be able to tell you more by the end of next week.
@deadendboredom For instance the nucleus nano to has no issues with vintage lenses because of motor has been strengthened since the last I use the Helios 442 and the mir1
@@rezjrprod I experimented a bit more, and I can say with confidence that the motor is really powerful - I can barely stop it with my hand. I’d be very surprised if it had any issues with any lens, unless the lens itself has a mechanical problem.
I might be mistaken but I thought that the lidar unit was supposed to be mounted in line with the focal plane indicator. Is that not so? If it is the case then your longer cable wouldn't be needed. If it isn't... well then everything you've said is fine.
@@MultiMattRogers It should be centered above the lens, but not directly over the sensor, as in many cases the lens would get in the way. That’s what the offset in the settings is for.
"ned gschimpft is genug gelobt!" - many thanks for this honest review. so battery life could be a real problem - do you know if its possible to charge via USB while operating? and generally speaking, when calibration is done etc. is it working without flaws in jobs? like is it slowing down the filming process? problems i know from other remote focus units: motor gets slippery and disconnects from lens --> needs a new re-calibration and so on. also how fast is the process when lens changing? like new lens, put the motor on, select profile, calibrate --> ready? and is it usable for interviews? like 20 minutes without focus problems, even when person looks around, moving forward, backward? thanks for your answers
@@noBfilm 1. Yes, it is possible to charge the handle while using it, but only with a PD-compliant power source. 2. It doesn't make the process significantly longer than with other follow focuses, where you also need to recalibrate after changing the lens. However, this changes if you're using more than three focal lengths, as you won't be able to switch between profiles with just the simple button. 3. The motor has held very well on the rods for me so far-actually, it feels a bit more secure than with the Nucleus M. 4. I’ve been very impressed with the autofocus performance so far. As you can see in the video, it even tracks people and heads from behind. The closer a person is to the lens and the larger the focus throw, the more likely you’ll need to increase the motor speed to keep up with fast forward and backward movements. However, this is probably less of an issue in typical interview settings.
I just got mine and the focus breathing is not cool. Another thing is the motor is being picked up on my microphones. I am not sure I am going to keep it.
@@FollowTheJohn Focus breathing is not a „problem“ with the Focus Pro, but your lens. I also noticed the volume of the motor and I forgot to mention it (Just like some other things). This happens mainly when the focus changes quickly... With slower changes it is very quiet, at least if you are not recording with the camera's internal mic or one directly on the camera.
@@FollowTheJohn Why shouldn’t they be good? Which ones do you have? If focus breathing bothers you and your lenses have it, then that’s a characteristic of your lenses that you don’t like. Are we talking about the same phenomenon - the slight change in focal length when focusing?
It's very good but needs some improvements and additions via firmware. You can use simple usb-c extension cables for the connections, they work. The things that annoy me are that the focus jumps when you zoom in/out and when you switch from wide to spot so you can't change modes while recording and there is no subject shift speed adjustment for the AMF setting. Plus they should allow for the calibration of lenses from 0.5m (or less) to 5.0m and for lenses up to 135mm. There also should be an AF/AMF mode or a way to choose between multiple subjects while in AMF.
@@PabloDeBiasi You found a third-party USB cable that works with the sensor? Either you were lucky or I was unlucky… I’ve tried various cables and combinations without success. Where can I find that magic cable?
@@deadendboredom you used a male-male cable plus the female-female adapter, I'm talking about male-female usb-c 3.2 extension cables, that's what works. You want the male end of the extenders on the motor and lidar and the dji cables on the grip
@@deadendboredom if you look at the official dji focus pro video @1:37 you can clearly see the extension cables used as I said. For 1 meter long compatible cables that work search the bay for "Focus Pro USB-C Control Cable for DJI Grip & LiDAR Motor Canon Nikon Sony Camera"
The one big downside to me is, that you can not swap from focus to zoom from the handle without having to go through the menu. I would love to be able to switch between both more easily without swiping left and right and back
Important note .. do not use the dtap cable for a Nukleus Nano ii Motor. Mine did get fried im heavy smoke. Both cable and motor. I though that should be no problem as tilts is offering a dtap to usb c cable alike, but I suppose with limited voltage compared to
@@JoATTech Magical lens calibration mattress… but its availability is just as frustrating as with the Focus Pro ;) Have you received yours by now, or have you already decided against it and gone for a different camera?
@@PNWMOTION In my setup with the FX6 (and other cameras), I attach the sensor to the lens, as this is the optimal position with my lenses to see past the matte box. If I couldn’t attach it to the lens, it would definitely be more complicated, especially due to DJI’s somewhat odd decision to use a cold shoe mount. Does that answer your question, or are you looking for a specific thing with the FX6?
@@deadendboredom na just curious how you did it, I have mine on the way and I'm going to use a15mm clamp with rod along with 15mm plate to mount the Lidar too and see how that works but I'm looking for other options in case this doesn't pan out as I really want this to work haha. You're the first person I've seen mount it on the fx6 in a way that I like so far. Also Kondor Blue has a mounting kit that is pre order currently that might be a good option as well. Thanks for the response.
@@d_FLDE All I can say is that the DJI support team confirmed that the Focus Pro is not designed for the higher voltage. Even if it works, I imagine that if something does go wrong, you definitely wouldn’t be able to claim warranty.
@@deadendboredom , they have a dtap to usbc cable in the box with a big yellow patch on it that says : only for focus motors, everything else is most likely getting fried (of course not these words but within the line. As it is part of the shipment it is of course under warranty
That product brings so many possibilites when it comes to vintage lenses and some cheap MF ones as well. Basic kit costs around 800 GBP which isn't super cheap but then you can get any MF lens and adapt it.
@@through_the_lens_art I completely agree with you, but as it stands, it doesn’t work reliably with all lenses. It really depends on whether the focus throw is linear, logarithmic, or exponential. For example, I have three lenses from the same set that aren’t consistently sharp throughout the range. I’m really hoping DJI is already working on an update to allow for additional calibration points to address this issue.
Damn what a great review! This is what’s really off-putting about this otherwise great focus-assist system: the consumer computer cables they use and you can’t even say the widely available cable would be a benefit (having a pa run to the electronics department to get a spare 😅) as it’s an entirely new standard. Just Lemo, lemo is always the answer. 😂
@@mauriciolee7349 If you don't urgently need autofocus for manual lenses, it might really be worth waiting for the next version or even skipping it altogether… As I mentioned, I specifically highlighted all the negative points, but of course, not everything is negative. I’d be interested to know, what is the decisive factor for you in choosing not to go for it?
@@deadendboredom I'm a green horn when it comes to manual focus. I've have always been using auto focus lenses whenever possible. So far, the only time I use manual focus is when I do macro photography. That's OK but manual focus while shooting videos is too much hassle for me. That's why I have never done it. Now, I want to use anamorphic lenses to create cinematic look in my videos. I guess it's much easier for me to use DJI Focus Pro. However after seeing the long list of obstacles when using that device presented by you plus the high price tag, I've decided it's not worth it.
@@d_FLDE idk, it's repeatable in my case on 35mm Arles and on 18-85 Red Pro Zoom, and this issue happens on all 3 firmware versions I've used. Always lagging behind on pullbacks, it's less visible when you're over 2m from subject, but it is still there in my case.
Using the Fuji xt4 so this thing will always be awesome, haha! Think it will be dope, I’m not filming like you’re demoing the unit… it’s give and take and learn to use the gear you have. Hell I’m using the AF on the xt4 for gods sake ❤😂❤
Thanks for this great review. Now I'm pushing DJI Focus Pro on the end of my "want to buy list". I hate proprietary "usb-c" cables which are really not a standard USB-C cables. I also though this thing has a rosette not this weird mounting nato abomination. LOL at the carrying case. And I've seen somewhere you can have more lens profiles stored, but maybe it was only when you pair it with RS4 gimbal? 🤔 Instant sub for this sarcastic style of mocking shitty design decisions.
@@JoATTech Thanks! Yes, you can save more than just 3 profiles. I briefly show this towards the end of the video, where those sub-profiles are in the app
@@riversheppherd121 Yeah, give it a try. To be fair, it technically does what it’s supposed to do quite well… if it weren’t for all the little annoying things around it. Let me know what your impression is when you try it out with the expectations you’ve gotten from this video.
@@biskero I can somewhat understand why they use USB-C. On one hand, they want to ensure compatibility with gimbals, and on the other, it certainly doesn’t hurt if customers have the impression that it's just simple USB cables that can be easily replaced if they break or if other cables are needed. Fun fact: According to a support representative, they’ve altered the length of the pins in their cables, so regular USB-C cables won’t work. Their reasoning was that they use different voltages, which is why they have their own proprietary cables.
@@deadendboredom it sounds bs on their side since there are usb-c cables that support up to 200watts now and support all data connection including 8k video. They are just trying to lock in users which sucks because are just cables! It does not make any sense since a cable is just few dollars!
@@creativegreatsvisuals The only cables that seem to work are male-to-female extension cables. The original cable on the handle, the extension to the sensor.
That's total bs what they're saying regarding cables. It's the N1 complaint of anyone who did get the unit right out of the box, I've mentioned it in the list of issues on their forum like 3 month ago.
One can extend the cables using USB-C extension cables (yeah that totally doesn't sound right, but at least one can get them l-shaped and with any length and it does work).
@@alexlubensky After I released the video, support told me that they had shortened the pins so that regular USB-C cables wouldn’t be compatible. I really hope DJI learns from this, does fewer odd things, and thinks a bit more about practicality.
@@deadendboredom that’s what regular UA-cam reviews call “ecosystem”)) yeah that was an odd move to lock people to use only DJI branded cables. I wouldn’t argue if they had variety of cables and connector shapes, which were robust and good. But…
@@MrJayclas It looks more compact, but for me, it would be unusable just because the lidar is in the motor, which would mean that a matte box or physically longer lenses would block the measurement. No active tracking of people and operation with just one button… I see the appeal for small setups and due to the price, but I don't quite understand yet where the system is supposed to be more versatile.
@@dc292177917 Oh, absolutely, that’s what I Do… though for anyone who prefers lugging around a fully built setup with bits and pieces sticking out, begging to be snapped off or yanked out, hey, all the power to you! Personally, even the USB-C cable on the side of the focus motor comes out if we so much as blink between scenes. 😉
@@deadendboredom 10mins just to talk about the bad design of a free case most users wouldnt even touch, good on you mate👍🏻 also for the calibration process its not meant to be done on that tiny screen on the handle...
@@dc292177917 A free case - kind of like the tires that come free with a car? Could you clarify where I’m supposed to handle this calibration process? Is it in the app, where the feature doesn’t exist? Or maybe on the $2000 Transmission System High Bright Monitor? Or am I just meant to select from pre-set profiles for lenses that are already calibrated?
Update: The issue with the motor jittering during calibration has been resolved with the latest firmware update.
New pre-configured profiles are now available for some lenses; however, it’s still not possible to create or name custom profiles.
The lens calibration process doesn’t have to be exactly at 1m and 4.50m. For instance, if there are issues with close focus, the near calibration can be done at up to 0.5m instead. However, depending on the lens, this might result in the focus being slightly off in the middle range. Whether calibrating above or below 1m makes sense depends on the lens and needs to be tested on a case-by-case basis.
IMPORTANT: Some lenses have a focus ring that behaves somewhat erratically. Since only two calibration points are currently supported, this can lead to the focus being accurate only at those specific points, with varying levels of blurriness in between. Right now, I have a complete Lens Set that’s not usable for exactly this reason.
Keep them coming mate, you're a gem in the sea of creators who all seem to scream the hardest, and all make the same style of content.
@@maicovimuto6341 Thanks man, you understood what I'm trying to do here.
Very constructive suggestions; I hope the product continues to improve.
Great Video, was very informative and good structured. P.S. (good music choice at the end)
After using it, overall it's still quite functional.
Hi! ¡Great and very honest review indeed!! Ok, i need to ask... is possible to set the lens limits manually and skip the auto calibration? My lens (Rokinons) are passing the infinity mark. Thanks!!
@@javierb1535 That’s not a problem. In the menu that you swipe down from the top and within the motor calibration, you can manually set the endpoints. I show the menu briefly in the video and mention the manual endpoints.
Thank you for your answer, I have another question, did you try if it is possible to charge the grip with a power bank while it is being used?
@@javierb1535 Yes, you do need a power source that supports PD, but then it works. Physically, it’s a bit inconvenient to have to mount an extra power bank somewhere and run the charging cable to the lower Front of the handle, but it does work.
@@deadendboredom is an option! thanks!
Best Review ever! I think you also did a review on the TC-1 Box. I need to go find a measuring tip now
Thank you for a balanced review.
@@AltCine Thanks, but to be fair, I did place more emphasis on the negative aspects than the product might have deserved... I hope I made that clear enough at the beginning of the video.
@@deadendboredom yeah that's fine. It's just good to see both sides. I think these products are ok but I don't think they're fully ready yet.
My hope is that one day these systems (with electronic lenses/adapters) can read lens data through the camera or a usb port on the lens and everything syncs up eliminating the need for calibration etc.
This would be perfect for cameras like Blackmagic, RED etc that have electronics but no AF.
I hope someone at DJI sees this video. What a great description you made of this product. The incompatibility of the batteries seems to me to be a design error that could have been solved during development and that would solve one of the biggest problems of this product: the duration of its batteries.
I have mine and I love it. My biggest gripe is the lidar placement and the hot shoe. I wish DJI had a better attachment that can make it close to the lens view. The parallax error can be annoying when you are trying to do close-up. Second I wish the mini screen could replicate the point of view of the lens finder. We only have 2 options. Wide or 2x. As for first-generation products, I think it's incredible. Hopefully, they will fix this via firmware or come out with an attachment to the lidar where it can sit close to the lens.
@@zoneVgroup good point!
Great review! What's the piece of music at 19:50 called?
@@antonkochlauritsen7606 The track doesn’t have a name you could look up because I composed the music myself and haven’t released it anywhere else. I’m glad you liked it.
@@deadendboredom what a lovely piece of music, crossing my fingers for a release🤞
Finally someone who uses Pocket 6K and this thing. I've been looking for reviews if it's compatible with each other
@@Juaansi With a cage that has a NATO rail on the side, it’s definitely compatible and makes handling the 6K a bit easier than usual. However, even with the grip, the camera still doesn’t realy become ergonomic.
Can this be powered via V-Mount?
Does the handle need to be there if I want to use the LiDar? - Like on a gimbal, there's no need for the handle
@@michaelfrymus If there’s a D-Tap to USB-C PD solution, then yes-the handle can only be powered with PD during operation.
When you say “handle,” do you mean just the battery grip or the entire handle unit? If it’s only the battery grip, theoretically it’s not required. However, I haven’t found a power plate like the one used for the gimbal that provides the lower voltage needed.
If you mean the entire handle unit, then yes, it’s actually necessary to use LiDAR, with one exception: if you’re using the DJI Video Transmission (the big one)
If you've got the all in one combo, one can avoind the jumpy focus on calibration using the FIZ. Simply turn i on when calibrating and use the focus wheel on the FIZ instead of the handgrip. Makes calibration process much easier, especially if one has 5-7 lenses to calibrate..
Also, prior starting calibration, I actually would recommend to go to flexspot mode (small square on the left of the screen in video preview), and tap on screen so the focus is on the target, and then press the trigger button. The target will show yellow instead of white and will track the target while you're focusing, and will show the correct distance to the target but not anything around, especially useful on wider lenses.
@@alexlubensky Are you referring to the Hand Unit when you say FIZ? I was actually planning to get the Hand Unit soon, but I’m still unsure... Maybe you can help answer a few questions?
Does autofocus still work when the Hand Unit is connected and not the handle, or is manual focus the only option with the Hand Unit?
Are all the necessary cables included with the Hand Unit? It seems like there’s only a D-Tap to USB-C cable for the motor. Some time ago, there was also a breakout box, but I haven't seen it recently.
@@deadendboredom yeah I was referring to Hand Unit. Basically it works wireless, meaning if the Pro Grip is connected one can use it to override autofocus in AMF mode, or use it manually like a regular FIZ Unit. No additional cables needed if you opt to use it together with Pro Grip, and if one wants to use it with DJI transmission system and monitor - then you can use the included d-tap to usb-c cable to power the motor (beware that one can’t do so when using Pro Grip, it will fry the grip and the grip can’t control the focus motor wirelessly). Basically it’s a separate solution where the brain of the system is the Wireless Monitor, made for crewed gigs
@@deadendboredom once the Hand Unit is turned on it overrides control from the Pro Grip, if they are used simultaneously. The Pro Grip acts as the brain of the system to track subjects when using autofocus, and if set to AMF a 1AC can override it at any moment, or switch to MF and focus manually. It doesn’t show distances on the Hand unit though, only the Wireless Monitor is showing proper distance markers
@@deadendboredom basically if you plan to use it alone there’s no reason to purchase the hand unit. I’ve got it because only the all in one combo was available atm, and I do sometimes work with crews and lazy enough to swap between Nucleus M and DJI focus pro
Does the LiDAR unit improve ActiveTrack gimbal auto-tracking? How well does LiDAR-enabled tracking work in less ideal light? Under what conditions does it fail to follow a subject, and under what conditions does it succeed in re-acquiring a temporarily obscured subject? I'm having trouble finding any video demonstrations of this.
@@myerssamuel1057 Active motion tracking from the gimbal isn’t enhanced by the focus unit.
Focus: For example, if a person being tracked is momentarily blocked by an object between them and the lens, the focus will shift to the foreground object. Once the person is visible again, the tracking resumes. To prevent this, you’ll need to intervene by holding the focus wheel on the handle.
I’ll get back to you shortly with more details on how it performs in different lighting conditions.
@@deadendboredom ActiveTrack and LiDAR are not integrated in any way? LiDAR would greatly improve auto-tracking in low light.
@@myerssamuel1057 I’m not sure if the RS4’s ActiveTrack truly benefits from the LiDAR, as I don’t own an RS4 myself. However, the following insights might clarify where the LiDAR actually helps and where it doesn’t.
With LiDAR, regular autofocus without tracking is very reliable - even in complete darkness, the focus locks onto whatever is centered in the focus box. For person-tracking autofocus, I’ve found it works down to around 7 LUX (ISO 6400, f1.8); beyond that, it starts to become unreliable.
If the RS4’s ActiveTrack operates through the Raven Eye using the actual camera feed, then tracking autofocus would, for example, be much more reliable on a Sony camera set to ISO 12800 f1.2 than through the LiDAR unit alone. This is because the LiDAR unit relies only on its own built-in camera for tracking, which isn’t as light-sensitive as the professional camera sensor.
@@deadendboredom Are you saying ActiveTrack relies on the LiDAR camera and NOT on the LiDAR itself? That's confusing. I thought ActiveTrack with LiDAR used the LiDAR to find and track the subject, and the that camera on the LiDAR was only to display on the Gimbal screen the framing area of the LiDAR and the location of the tracked target the LiDAR was seeing. That way you can make sure the subject in both LiDAR and camera are somewhat in the same area. I guess I need to find better documentation on these units.
@@myerssamuel1057 Let’s set ActiveTrack aside for now, as I don’t have the RS4. What I’m quite sure of, though, is that object recognition does not work via LiDAR alone. The camera in the sensor is responsible for tracking and determining the location, and then the LiDAR measures the distance to that specific point. LiDAR itself can only measure distances to points - it can’t recognize objects. A “regular” camera, on the other hand, can recognize objects but can’t measure distance. Here, the two technologies work together, each complementing the other’s capabilities.
That’s at least my understanding of it.
Your cinema footage looks 👌
I ordered mine for shoulder rig purposes and was wondering if you’d be kind enough to link the cable you purchased? Great review, thank you!
@@beatboxxdannyschwarzboxing9768 Any male-to-female USB-C 3.2 extension cable should technically work, since you still use the original cable with the correctly fitting connector housing on the grip. So, this extension cable becomes less critical. I can only send you the Amazon Germany link, and I’m not sure if it’s available in your country or if I can even post the link here.
amzn.eu/d/04VU6qL
Das war Mal eine ehrliche Meinung und aufwendig gestaltetes Review. Respekt das du dir die Mühe gemacht hast aber wenn man Filmemacher ist sollte man Liebe in seine Arbeit reinstecken top Arbeit 👍
How's the motor strength? Some of my vintage lenses aren't as loose as newer manual lenses
@@rezjrprod Hard to say without a common reference point… From what I can tell, the motor is stronger than I’d expected, and so far, it’s handled every lens I’ve tried with no issues. That said, I haven’t tested it with any older lenses that might have stiffer focus rings.
I might be able to tell you more by the end of next week.
@deadendboredom For instance the nucleus nano to has no issues with vintage lenses because of motor has been strengthened since the last I use the Helios 442 and the mir1
@@rezjrprod I just tried it on the zoom ring of a lens with relatively high resistance, and the motor had no issues handling it.
@@rezjrprod I experimented a bit more, and I can say with confidence that the motor is really powerful - I can barely stop it with my hand. I’d be very surprised if it had any issues with any lens, unless the lens itself has a mechanical problem.
I might be mistaken but I thought that the lidar unit was supposed to be mounted in line with the focal plane indicator. Is that not so?
If it is the case then your longer cable wouldn't be needed. If it isn't... well then everything you've said is fine.
@@MultiMattRogers It should be centered above the lens, but not directly over the sensor, as in many cases the lens would get in the way. That’s what the offset in the settings is for.
"ned gschimpft is genug gelobt!" - many thanks for this honest review. so battery life could be a real problem - do you know if its possible to charge via USB while operating? and generally speaking, when calibration is done etc. is it working without flaws in jobs? like is it slowing down the filming process? problems i know from other remote focus units: motor gets slippery and disconnects from lens --> needs a new re-calibration and so on. also how fast is the process when lens changing? like new lens, put the motor on, select profile, calibrate --> ready? and is it usable for interviews? like 20 minutes without focus problems, even when person looks around, moving forward, backward? thanks for your answers
@@noBfilm 1. Yes, it is possible to charge the handle while using it, but only with a PD-compliant power source.
2. It doesn't make the process significantly longer than with other follow focuses, where you also need to recalibrate after changing the lens. However, this changes if you're using more than three focal lengths, as you won't be able to switch between profiles with just the simple button.
3. The motor has held very well on the rods for me so far-actually, it feels a bit more secure than with the Nucleus M.
4. I’ve been very impressed with the autofocus performance so far. As you can see in the video, it even tracks people and heads from behind. The closer a person is to the lens and the larger the focus throw, the more likely you’ll need to increase the motor speed to keep up with fast forward and backward movements. However, this is probably less of an issue in typical interview settings.
@@deadendboredom thanks for your answer!
I just got mine and the focus breathing is not cool. Another thing is the motor is being picked up on my microphones. I am not sure I am going to keep it.
@@FollowTheJohn Focus breathing is not a „problem“ with the Focus Pro, but your lens. I also noticed the volume of the motor and I forgot to mention it (Just like some other things). This happens mainly when the focus changes quickly... With slower changes it is very quiet, at least if you are not recording with the camera's internal mic or one directly on the camera.
@@deadendboredom So all of my cinema lenses are no good?
@@FollowTheJohn Why shouldn’t they be good? Which ones do you have? If focus breathing bothers you and your lenses have it, then that’s a characteristic of your lenses that you don’t like. Are we talking about the same phenomenon - the slight change in focal length when focusing?
@@FollowTheJohnwait, you think that focus breathing is a consequence of the focus unit?
It's very good but needs some improvements and additions via firmware. You can use simple usb-c extension cables for the connections, they work. The things that annoy me are that the focus jumps when you zoom in/out and when you switch from wide to spot so you can't change modes while recording and there is no subject shift speed adjustment for the AMF setting. Plus they should allow for the calibration of lenses from 0.5m (or less) to 5.0m and for lenses up to 135mm. There also should be an AF/AMF mode or a way to choose between multiple subjects while in AMF.
@@PabloDeBiasi You found a third-party USB cable that works with the sensor? Either you were lucky or I was unlucky… I’ve tried various cables and combinations without success. Where can I find that magic cable?
@@deadendboredom you can find longer ones on the bay or use simple usb-c male-female extensions, they work just fine
@@PabloDeBiasi As I already mentioned in the video, that wasn’t the case for me, and I tried many different cables - I’m surprised it worked for you.
@@deadendboredom you used a male-male cable plus the female-female adapter, I'm talking about male-female usb-c 3.2 extension cables, that's what works. You want the male end of the extenders on the motor and lidar and the dji cables on the grip
@@deadendboredom if you look at the official dji focus pro video @1:37 you can clearly see the extension cables used as I said. For 1 meter long compatible cables that work search the bay for "Focus Pro USB-C Control Cable for DJI Grip & LiDAR Motor Canon Nikon Sony Camera"
The one big downside to me is, that you can not swap from focus to zoom from the handle without having to go through the menu. I would love to be able to switch between both more easily without swiping left and right and back
Important note .. do not use the dtap cable for a Nukleus Nano ii Motor. Mine did get fried im heavy smoke. Both cable and motor. I though that should be no problem as tilts is offering a dtap to usb c cable alike, but I suppose with limited voltage compared to
Next month I'm definitely buying .... the calibration mattress :D
@@JoATTech Magical lens calibration mattress… but its availability is just as frustrating as with the Focus Pro ;)
Have you received yours by now, or have you already decided against it and gone for a different camera?
@@deadendboredom Pushed it to the bottom of my "buy list" after watching your video :D
It is a game changer. I sleep on mine between calibrations.
dude how did you mount that on the fx6?
@@PNWMOTION In my setup with the FX6 (and other cameras), I attach the sensor to the lens, as this is the optimal position with my lenses to see past the matte box. If I couldn’t attach it to the lens, it would definitely be more complicated, especially due to DJI’s somewhat odd decision to use a cold shoe mount.
Does that answer your question, or are you looking for a specific thing with the FX6?
@@deadendboredom na just curious how you did it, I have mine on the way and I'm going to use a15mm clamp with rod along with 15mm plate to mount the Lidar too and see how that works but I'm looking for other options in case this doesn't pan out as I really want this to work haha. You're the first person I've seen mount it on the fx6 in a way that I like so far. Also Kondor Blue has a mounting kit that is pre order currently that might be a good option as well. Thanks for the response.
The trigger is used to lock tracking on a subject in flexspot mode or lock onto a certain face in wide AMF mode
Any grip except the BG21 will fry the Pro Grip eventually. Don't use any grip except the BG21 ever.
@@alexlubensky Thanks for the addition!
@@alexlubensky.. really ?
I had the non compatible note but ignored it so far using the grip of my rs3 as a backup as it drinks battery
@@d_FLDE All I can say is that the DJI support team confirmed that the Focus Pro is not designed for the higher voltage. Even if it works, I imagine that if something does go wrong, you definitely wouldn’t be able to claim warranty.
@@deadendboredom , they have a dtap to usbc cable in the box with a big yellow patch on it that says : only for focus motors, everything else is most likely getting fried (of course not these words but within the line. As it is part of the shipment it is of course under warranty
Nice tutorial, thank you
Lowkey a good review
Great stuff, keep doing it.
I didn't know that unscrewing and screwing could be so tense. I am never touching another screwdriver.
great video
That product brings so many possibilites when it comes to vintage lenses and some cheap MF ones as well. Basic kit costs around 800 GBP which isn't super cheap but then you can get any MF lens and adapt it.
@@through_the_lens_art I completely agree with you, but as it stands, it doesn’t work reliably with all lenses. It really depends on whether the focus throw is linear, logarithmic, or exponential. For example, I have three lenses from the same set that aren’t consistently sharp throughout the range. I’m really hoping DJI is already working on an update to allow for additional calibration points to address this issue.
Damn what a great review!
This is what’s really off-putting about this otherwise great focus-assist system: the consumer computer cables they use and you can’t even say the widely available cable would be a benefit (having a pa run to the electronics department to get a spare 😅) as it’s an entirely new standard. Just Lemo, lemo is always the answer. 😂
Thank DeadEndBoredom for this HONEST & Very DETAILED review of DJI Focus Pro. It helps me make an informed decision of NOT buying this device.
@@mauriciolee7349 If you don't urgently need autofocus for manual lenses, it might really be worth waiting for the next version or even skipping it altogether… As I mentioned, I specifically highlighted all the negative points, but of course, not everything is negative.
I’d be interested to know, what is the decisive factor for you in choosing not to go for it?
@@deadendboredom I'm a green horn when it comes to manual focus. I've have always been using auto focus lenses whenever possible. So far, the only time I use manual focus is when I do macro photography. That's OK but manual focus while shooting videos is too much hassle for me. That's why I have never done it. Now, I want to use anamorphic lenses to create cinematic look in my videos. I guess it's much easier for me to use DJI Focus Pro. However after seeing the long list of obstacles when using that device presented by you plus the high price tag, I've decided it's not worth it.
And pulling backwards, no matter handheld, on gimbal, on a slider etc - the focus will always lag behind, while pulling in will always be perfect.
.. I do not have this. And I tried many lenses.
@@d_FLDE idk, it's repeatable in my case on 35mm Arles and on 18-85 Red Pro Zoom, and this issue happens on all 3 firmware versions I've used. Always lagging behind on pullbacks, it's less visible when you're over 2m from subject, but it is still there in my case.
pretty fucking good editing
Using the Fuji xt4 so this thing will always be awesome, haha! Think it will be dope, I’m not filming like you’re demoing the unit… it’s give and take and learn to use the gear you have. Hell I’m using the AF on the xt4 for gods sake ❤😂❤
And don't forget: the hot shoe mount of the Lidar is extremely stupid. I built myself a direct connection to 15mm Rails
i used a usb c cable extender and it works no prob to make the cables longer. Everything works.
can't you just buy a longer usb c cable though
?
Thanks for this great review. Now I'm pushing DJI Focus Pro on the end of my "want to buy list". I hate proprietary "usb-c" cables which are really not a standard USB-C cables.
I also though this thing has a rosette not this weird mounting nato abomination. LOL at the carrying case.
And I've seen somewhere you can have more lens profiles stored, but maybe it was only when you pair it with RS4 gimbal? 🤔
Instant sub for this sarcastic style of mocking shitty design decisions.
@@JoATTech Thanks!
Yes, you can save more than just 3 profiles. I briefly show this towards the end of the video, where those sub-profiles are in the app
You can use normal type c cables that support data and power
@@RedShade_Studios Male to male? As shown in the video, I tried various cables, and only a male to female extension worked so far.
i just ordered mine,. but this whole things seems very jank. it might be a return
@@riversheppherd121 Yeah, give it a try. To be fair, it technically does what it’s supposed to do quite well… if it weren’t for all the little annoying things around it. Let me know what your impression is when you try it out with the expectations you’ve gotten from this video.
trick is it never works in events enviromments...Too chaotic movement even for Sony AF...Manual still king
all great points! the cables is just plain stupid in addition to the box!
@@biskero I can somewhat understand why they use USB-C. On one hand, they want to ensure compatibility with gimbals, and on the other, it certainly doesn’t hurt if customers have the impression that it's just simple USB cables that can be easily replaced if they break or if other cables are needed.
Fun fact: According to a support representative, they’ve altered the length of the pins in their cables, so regular USB-C cables won’t work. Their reasoning was that they use different voltages, which is why they have their own proprietary cables.
@@deadendboredom it sounds bs on their side since there are usb-c cables that support up to 200watts now and support all data connection including 8k video. They are just trying to lock in users which sucks because are just cables! It does not make any sense since a cable is just few dollars!
@@deadendboredom so how do you buy extra cables that work with this system?
@@creativegreatsvisuals The only cables that seem to work are male-to-female extension cables. The original cable on the handle, the extension to the sensor.
@@deadendboredom? I do not have that. I use a u shaped usbc connector between both motors though, that I do not have a cable that peeks out.
That's total bs what they're saying regarding cables. It's the N1 complaint of anyone who did get the unit right out of the box, I've mentioned it in the list of issues on their forum like 3 month ago.
One can extend the cables using USB-C extension cables (yeah that totally doesn't sound right, but at least one can get them l-shaped and with any length and it does work).
@@alexlubensky After I released the video, support told me that they had shortened the pins so that regular USB-C cables wouldn’t be compatible. I really hope DJI learns from this, does fewer odd things, and thinks a bit more about practicality.
@@deadendboredom that’s what regular UA-cam reviews call “ecosystem”)) yeah that was an odd move to lock people to use only DJI branded cables. I wouldn’t argue if they had variety of cables and connector shapes, which were robust and good. But…
Love it :D
2:55 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
PD Movie Lidar system seems to be better and more versatile than this.
@@MrJayclas It looks more compact, but for me, it would be unusable just because the lidar is in the motor, which would mean that a matte box or physically longer lenses would block the measurement. No active tracking of people and operation with just one button… I see the appeal for small setups and due to the price, but I don't quite understand yet where the system is supposed to be more versatile.
too much work, nice
coz the stuff stays on the camera... dont tell me you go out with the dji gimbal case and assemble it everytime you shoot😂😂
@@dc292177917 Oh, absolutely, that’s what I Do… though for anyone who prefers lugging around a fully built setup with bits and pieces sticking out, begging to be snapped off or yanked out, hey, all the power to you! Personally, even the USB-C cable on the side of the focus motor comes out if we so much as blink between scenes. 😉
@@deadendboredom 10mins just to talk about the bad design of a free case most users wouldnt even touch, good on you mate👍🏻 also for the calibration process its not meant to be done on that tiny screen on the handle...
@@dc292177917 A free case - kind of like the tires that come free with a car?
Could you clarify where I’m supposed to handle this calibration process? Is it in the app, where the feature doesn’t exist? Or maybe on the $2000 Transmission System High Bright Monitor? Or am I just meant to select from pre-set profiles for lenses that are already calibrated?
have you been spood fed all your life?
@@peterbratu Only when I couldn’t find the fork, but thanks for asking!
Whiny
@@chrisyeong just a bit of gourmet-level salt