Nice recommendation! Those are very handy things to have when you have this problem. BTW, minor suggestion: the usual pronunciation for "6-32 screw" is "six thirty-two screw", not "six thirty-seconds screw". The reason for "thirty-two" rather than "thirty-seconds" is that the 6 and the 32 represent different things. The 6 (or #6) is the code for the screw diameter, and the 32 is the number of threads per inch. Saying thirty-seconds makes it sound like the 6 and 32 are some sort of a fraction, and they are not.
As an electrician, I wholly recommend this video and product. This is the best, code compliant solution. And using the proper size (#6) machine screws is important as well. This is a pro-quality fix. 99% of the time when I need to fix these, esp. after tile, there are long drywall screws run into the box which can destroy the bosses in the box and make a major project of a minor one. Kickass video Ben.
Buickman455 - 100% agree about the drywall screws. I carry a Klein 6-in-1 tapping tool to restore the threads if they have had an oddball screw installed. Worst case scenario if the ear is totally blown out I'll tap it out to a #8 using the tapping tool, and use a #8 screw I carry for these cases. Some newer townhouses around me simply use 2 layers of 1/2 inch drywall for fire-break and sound barrier between the units, but the electrical boxes are set based on a half inch setback, so almost every plug is floating half an inch above the box just on the "ears".
I wish I had seen this video 15 years ago. Around that time, I had some Quarts counters installed in our kitchen and the backsplash sections were 3/4" thick causing my receptacle and switch boxes to be recessed. Lutron Caseta Decora screwless cover, WIFI programable/dimmable switches and receptacles are what I use. I wanted them to fit nicely against the flat quarts and against other drywall areas of my home. This required me to independently dig thru the home store electrical department until I discovered the extenders and how to use them. Interestingly, many of the boxes located in my home were poorly installed during initial construction (too deep in almost every case). So in those cases, I use shallow depth box extenders. Works like a charm. Thank you again for your content.
just a note, they are six thirty two, not six thirty second (doesnt refer to fractions), six refers to the diameter, thirty two refers to the number of threads per inch.
Haha this is so often said and generally it's never confused with the wrong 6 1/32. It's a great point that I bet most electricals don't question. I would think I have done this in the past. And I used to work at a fastener retail store. 😂
Vertical or horizontal, either way, just as long as one is picked and stuck with. I prefer horizontal, that way any stray electrons don't just drop down the vertical channel.
I actually edited out the part where I shocked myself😂. This wall had two plugs like this. I turned off the breaker for the first one, installed the extension and then started filming the video on the second one not realizing that the second one was in another circuit. I would have loved to leave it in but I get tired of getting raked over the coals in my videos.
Yeah, these work great! We used these in our bedroom renovation, where we installed a second layer of 5/8 sheetrock to help deaden sound and make our bedroom quieter from outside noises. We also used adjustable boxes in our kitchen renovation because I didn't want to do the math on the backspashes. We were using sheetrock and then installing tile, and I thought using them would be easier than trying to figure out how thick everything was going to be. Lol!
You know, it’s a bit refreshing to watch a youtube video that doesn’t feel like an infomertial. Thanks. I am not digging on those who live off the Amazon affiliate link, just liking that this video isn’t that way.
Thank you so much for this, Ben!!! I recently retiled my kitchen and the outlets are struggling to seat to my liking. It drives me up the wall that they are all different depths.
This is a good fix; I’d add one thing and that’s horseshoe spacers, they’re plastic spacers that interlock with each other to make whatever thickness needed. The horseshoe spacers basically go between the box and the box extension to give the outlet a place to tighten down too. These spacers can also work it you simply need to pick up an 1/8” so things snug up and aren’t left to simply the cover to basically hold the outlet firm while it’s simply floating above the box.
I see you're a "Vertical Screw Head" guy. Horizontal here, and I admire the attention to detail. It's the finishing touches that were beat into my head as an apprentice that still drive my standards so many years later.
@@bhami when unscrewing much easier to aim at horizontal screw with the driver than vertical where it might miss and scratch Beats me why we don't have PH2 on these
Definitely use the screwless faceplates. Over a lifetime, they will save you two lifetimes of messing around trying to make the receptacles sit properly. The adapters have little windows cut in them so that you can adjust the inner receptacle screws and the screws on the adapter plate at the same time.
You didn't want to link anything in the description because you didn't know it would work, but trust you, it'll work...this is great. You always make your videos enjoyable 😂
Don’t use the 6/32 with the “ big head “ or it might interfere with the cover plate , and it won’t look nice if you use some kind of screw less face plate like like Lutron type . Long 6/32 pan head screw aren’t easy to find in box store , so I usually buy toggle bolt type anchor with the 6/32 screw and cut the screw to the desire length with the wire stripper usually equipped with the proper screw cutter .
I was going to make a comment about the 6-32 thing but I see that was already mentioned. I used to work for a company that did electronic system installations and that was a common mistake by some of the newer (not necessarily younger) installers, even by older techs who should have known bettter. But I was really surprised one day when I was watching an episode of "Ask This old House" and heard one of their professionals say X-32nds. Not a big deal but it is just something I learned as a young tech many years ago.
Not that it's particularly common these days, but for homes which feature wood paneling, you might need these box extenders per code (or at least best practices). They prevent the screw terminals from making physical contact with the wood, which could lead to a fire risk. Not that wood is particularly good at conducting electricity, but who knows. Electric code has a lot of overly precautious voodoo in it, lol
I installed the metal versions. They are a bit pricier and harder to find, but come with a pair of long , flat head 6/32 screws . Needed these for NYC code.
Hi Dear! I am a beginner I am sorry if my question is not related to your videos but as I found it as your recent video, I just wanted to ask my question in the comments. As a general rule I know that the drywalls should not be tight in place and recommendation is to consider 1/4 inch short but I don’t know how in practice! For example in ceiling: Must the first sheet be tight against the corner or considered 1/4 inch gap against the corner? What about the next sheet beside it? And last sheet on ceiling? And the then after hanging on ceiling, the same questions for walls? Would you please explain me or if you have a video about it, refer it to me? Thanks
I don't know how much that extension costs; I never used one. Since 1985 I've been using #14 wire wrapped around a Phillip's Head screwdriver to form little "springs," cutting them down to size and sliding them over each screw...
Any electrician in here has soo much to say LoL! I am an electrician from Alberta who moved to BC last year. It was a good video Ben. To be honest in all my years(since 1998 when I was indentured) I have never seen or installed double GFCI receptacles. Was that a mix up with a 3 wire being too close to the sink? Also people should know that it is an oversized decora plate . The hole cut in the tile is ginormous. I would imagine a regular sized 2 gang decora plate wouldn't cover. I tile a considerable amount also and typically have the ears of the device catch the edge of the tile. Depending on the device sometimes you have to notch above and below for the screw the plate to go through. Regardless of my "arm chairing" that's a clean install and looks good. 🎉VERTICAL SCREWS RULE🎉 horizontal screws hold dirt!!!👎
They could be separate circuits. You can see the Load connections are not used, which is expected regardless. I don't see the hot wires. Why 20 amp receptacles?
This is how I've been doing it for years BUT I found if I add some bolts and washers placed in-between the box and back of the outlet to create custom spacers then it gives more strength to the outlet. In the past I used to drill holes in paint sticks slightly larger than the screws and use those as spacers. Either works fine
@@VC-Toronto If the box is recessed by more than 1/4”, you need to use a box extender to be code compliant. If the surface material is combustible (e.g. wood), it has to be flush.
@@tempesttube Thank you, the electrician put the boxes in before I could put the drywall in then disappeared. I am doing this on my own, and it's always good when people help you out.
I just purchased these through Amazon (also available at HD) for a Reno project that is just like this!👍🏼 and I am also a bit anal-retentive about screw slots matching 😉
Where are all the electricians calling our man out for calling them "outlets" instead of "receptacles."? Y'all give us plumbers cr@p about it. Ben can take it.
In the US they have these awesome adjustable boxes that move in and out but seemingly not available in Canada. Canadian code needs to get with the times!
Shout out for trigger finger control. Drives me nuts when somebody squeezes it like it’s a firearm. Use it like the variable speed control it is, please.
My electrician charged me 250.00 to do this to one outlet, took him 5 minutes and before I could see what he did he had it fixed like you did. What a rip off.
Having two GFCIs in the same box is a little crazy. You only need one. If wired properly, the second set of outlets will trip the other outlet's GFCI. Waste of money.
It is the only way to convert the split receptacle we have in kitchen in Canada without replacing the 14/3 with 12/2 or using an expensive gfci breaker
But why the 2 gfci outlets? Hard to imagine they are are two different circuits. Should just be one GFCI, and one regular outlet wired downstream from it.
This is a trend I've seen on a number of home remodels and fix-and-flips. All receptacles in the kitchen are GFCI and often (as in this case) 20A receptacles. I don't know where this comes from--some overly cautious interpretation of the code? Or a misunderstanding of how GFCIs work in the first place? It is possible in some kitchens to feature multiwire branch circuits, whereby each outlet on a receptacle is a different circuit (both tabs are broken on the screw terminals), and in the case they would be retrofitted with GFCIs, you might need to put in a double gang box with two GFCIs since you can't land two circuits on one GFCI (one per circuit). Also, NEC allows 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits. The pass through current rating is greater than 15 amps on a 15 amp receptacle. The 20 amp version buys you the awkward looking receptacle that zero people own devices for. 20 amp circuits are great in kitchens to support multiple
@@ustabee6091 you cut the tile so the ears of the receptacle sit on top of tile and notch out for the screw. Sometimes screw is long enough to reuse, sometimes we have to add a longer screw
Weird thought: I think you need to wear a burgundy bathrobe and spin off a different channel - calling it “Hefner’s highlights”. You just have that young Hugh Hefner panaché.
Actually??…..I take that Hefneresque moniker back: you’re more like a young & debonair if not dashing Clint Eastwood if you look at some of his early movies….plus he’s got a much better character (like yours) than the Hef.
Hello my friend, I’m an old hardware man and I can’t help but cringe when you refer to the screws as “six thirty seconds”. It is not a fraction. The screw that you’re using is actually a six thirty two. The first number six is the thickness on the wire gage scale. The second number, 32, is the number of threads per inch. My apologies for being so anal! You’re wonderful. Merry Christmas
Nice recommendation! Those are very handy things to have when you have this problem.
BTW, minor suggestion: the usual pronunciation for "6-32 screw" is "six thirty-two screw", not "six thirty-seconds screw". The reason for "thirty-two" rather than "thirty-seconds" is that the 6 and the 32 represent different things. The 6 (or #6) is the code for the screw diameter, and the 32 is the number of threads per inch. Saying thirty-seconds makes it sound like the 6 and 32 are some sort of a fraction, and they are not.
As an electrician, I wholly recommend this video and product. This is the best, code compliant solution. And using the proper size (#6) machine screws is important as well. This is a pro-quality fix. 99% of the time when I need to fix these, esp. after tile, there are long drywall screws run into the box which can destroy the bosses in the box and make a major project of a minor one. Kickass video Ben.
Totally agree with you .
How do you feel about having 2 GFCI outlets in the same box?
@@Dysl3xicDog it's a little unusual, but if there are two circuits in the same box then it could be necessary.
Buickman455 - 100% agree about the drywall screws. I carry a Klein 6-in-1 tapping tool to restore the threads if they have had an oddball screw installed. Worst case scenario if the ear is totally blown out I'll tap it out to a #8 using the tapping tool, and use a #8 screw I carry for these cases. Some newer townhouses around me simply use 2 layers of 1/2 inch drywall for fire-break and sound barrier between the units, but the electrical boxes are set based on a half inch setback, so almost every plug is floating half an inch above the box just on the "ears".
I found out the hard way there were two circuits in the box😂
I edited it out though.
I wish I had seen this video 15 years ago.
Around that time, I had some Quarts counters installed in our kitchen and the backsplash sections were 3/4" thick causing my receptacle and switch boxes to be recessed. Lutron Caseta Decora screwless cover, WIFI programable/dimmable switches and receptacles are what I use. I wanted them to fit nicely against the flat quarts and against other drywall areas of my home. This required me to independently dig thru the home store electrical department until I discovered the extenders and how to use them.
Interestingly, many of the boxes located in my home were poorly installed during initial construction (too deep in almost every case). So in those cases, I use shallow depth box extenders. Works like a charm.
Thank you again for your content.
just a note, they are six thirty two, not six thirty second (doesnt refer to fractions), six refers to the diameter, thirty two refers to the number of threads per inch.
Agreed. Thanks Conrad.
Looked down here, but it was pointed out it's a #6 machine screw - 32 TPI or (NC - national coarse). I won't get into the type of head.
#6-32 on the box usually 👍
Haha this is so often said and generally it's never confused with the wrong 6 1/32. It's a great point that I bet most electricals don't question. I would think I have done this in the past. And I used to work at a fastener retail store. 😂
Took the words out of my mouth. 🤡. But what a helpful thing. Box extenders. Excellent topic.
keep up the amazing work Ben you always do such an amazing job on your repairs and on your videos.
5 stars for the verticle screw position. Definitely the way I go about it.
Vertical or horizontal, either way, just as long as one is picked and stuck with. I prefer horizontal, that way any stray electrons don't just drop down the vertical channel.
Screws all horizontal with me. Shows attention to detail. Though lately I'm a fan of screwless faceplates
Oh come on, we all love doing electrical work with the power on. It adds excitement!
I actually edited out the part where I shocked myself😂. This wall had two plugs like this. I turned off the breaker for the first one, installed the extension and then started filming the video on the second one not realizing that the second one was in another circuit. I would have loved to leave it in but I get tired of getting raked over the coals in my videos.
@@vancouvercarpenter this sounds like a good opportunity for an outtakes/bloopers video Ben.
This is awesome! I never knew these existed. As always, thanks again for another great video.
Yeah, these work great! We used these in our bedroom renovation, where we installed a second layer of 5/8 sheetrock to help deaden sound and make our bedroom quieter from outside noises. We also used adjustable boxes in our kitchen renovation because I didn't want to do the math on the backspashes. We were using sheetrock and then installing tile, and I thought using them would be easier than trying to figure out how thick everything was going to be. Lol!
You know, it’s a bit refreshing to watch a youtube video that doesn’t feel like an infomertial. Thanks. I am not digging on those who live off the Amazon affiliate link, just liking that this video isn’t that way.
Glad I follow Ben! Thanks dude! From Chicago!
Thank you so much for this, Ben!!! I recently retiled my kitchen and the outlets are struggling to seat to my liking. It drives me up the wall that they are all different depths.
Bought one of these today. Great tip! Thanks!
This is a good fix; I’d add one thing and that’s horseshoe spacers, they’re plastic spacers that interlock with each other to make whatever thickness needed. The horseshoe spacers basically go between the box and the box extension to give the outlet a place to tighten down too. These spacers can also work it you simply need to pick up an 1/8” so things snug up and aren’t left to simply the cover to basically hold the outlet firm while it’s simply floating above the box.
Great video Ben. I always do by hand as I always over tighten when using my impact.
It was very satisfying when you adjusted that initial screw at the very end 👌
I see you're a "Vertical Screw Head" guy. Horizontal here, and I admire the attention to detail. It's the finishing touches that were beat into my head as an apprentice that still drive my standards so many years later.
I go with vertical because the dust particles are less likely to stick 🙂
@@bhami Have you ever seen a clean outlet cover with dusty screws?
@@bhami when unscrewing much easier to aim at horizontal screw with the driver than vertical where it might miss and scratch
Beats me why we don't have PH2 on these
Great tips and will remember the extenders next time. I love how the outlets lined up perfectly with the cover plate on the first try. Hah.
Great tip, like always.
Thanks! Gonna need this whenever I get around to finishing my backsplash probably
Thank you for lining up your screws! It drives me nuts when they don't lol
Thanks! Got one deep socket that we're not sure what to do with so this is perfect.
You just saved me a lot of pain. Thank you
Definitely use the screwless faceplates. Over a lifetime, they will save you two lifetimes of messing around trying to make the receptacles sit properly. The adapters have little windows cut in them so that you can adjust the inner receptacle screws and the screws on the adapter plate at the same time.
Clarification: That's not a 6/32 screw, the #6 indicates the diameter, and the 32 is the threads per inch. Easy mistake :)
I like how you set the plate screws vertically so that dust doesn’t settle into the slot if set horizontally.
I have set the plate screws vertically for years. Now I know why. 😅
It just looks more professional. An OCD thing.
You didn't want to link anything in the description because you didn't know it would work, but trust you, it'll work...this is great. You always make your videos enjoyable 😂
Great job brother, keep safe.
Good job!
Don’t use the 6/32 with the “ big head “ or it might interfere with the cover plate , and it won’t look nice if you use some kind of screw less face plate like like Lutron type . Long 6/32 pan head screw aren’t easy to find in box store , so I usually buy toggle bolt type anchor with the 6/32 screw and cut the screw to the desire length with the wire stripper usually equipped with the proper screw cutter .
Didn't know these existed, thanks👍
wow dude you have everything!
Excellent thanks 🙏
Thank you. Subscribed.
I was going to make a comment about the 6-32 thing but I see that was already mentioned. I used to work for a company that did electronic system installations and that was a common mistake by some of the newer (not necessarily younger) installers, even by older techs who should have known bettter. But I was really surprised one day when I was watching an episode of "Ask This old House" and heard one of their professionals say X-32nds. Not a big deal but it is just something I learned as a young tech many years ago.
Not that it's particularly common these days, but for homes which feature wood paneling, you might need these box extenders per code (or at least best practices). They prevent the screw terminals from making physical contact with the wood, which could lead to a fire risk. Not that wood is particularly good at conducting electricity, but who knows. Electric code has a lot of overly precautious voodoo in it, lol
Excellent!
And goode to know I'm not the only one who insists on plate screws all in identical formation.
Thanks!
I installed the metal versions. They are a bit pricier and harder to find, but come with a pair of long , flat head 6/32 screws . Needed these for NYC code.
Awesome thanks!
Thanks!
Nice!
Question, is there a hazard or anything if I leave the outlet deep in if I prefer?
2:33 I tried to rub that smudge off my phone screen twice during the video. Glad you caught it.
Where can I find an extender? My two switch box is deep equal to drywall thickness.
Good tip as usual But its 6 32 not 32nds 32 is the threads per inch
Hi Dear!
I am a beginner
I am sorry if my question is not related to your videos but as I found it as your recent video, I just wanted to ask my question in the comments.
As a general rule I know that the drywalls should not be tight in place and recommendation is to consider 1/4 inch short but I don’t know how in practice!
For example in ceiling:
Must the first sheet be tight against the corner or considered 1/4 inch gap against the corner? What about the next sheet beside it? And last sheet on ceiling?
And the then after hanging on ceiling, the same questions for walls?
Would you please explain me or if you have a video about it, refer it to me?
Thanks
Better safe than sorry. Any large thickness change on the wall finish will create a too-deep outlet box. It's an easy fix as shown.
I don't know how much that extension costs; I never used one.
Since 1985 I've been using #14 wire wrapped around a Phillip's Head screwdriver to form little "springs," cutting them down to size and sliding them over each screw...
If it’s not recessed to bad buchcanan splice caps over the receptacle screws work great
2:23 and 2:34 thank you for satisfying our collective OCD 😅
This is extremely important for a proper professional install. We aren't hacks here 😂
Any electrician in here has soo much to say LoL! I am an electrician from Alberta who moved to BC last year. It was a good video Ben. To be honest in all my years(since 1998 when I was indentured) I have never seen or installed double GFCI receptacles. Was that a mix up with a 3 wire being too close to the sink? Also people should know that it is an oversized decora plate . The hole cut in the tile is ginormous. I would imagine a regular sized 2 gang decora plate wouldn't cover. I tile a considerable amount also and typically have the ears of the device catch the edge of the tile. Depending on the device sometimes you have to notch above and below for the screw the plate to go through. Regardless of my "arm chairing" that's a clean install and looks good.
🎉VERTICAL SCREWS RULE🎉 horizontal screws hold dirt!!!👎
They could be separate circuits. You can see the Load connections are not used, which is expected regardless. I don't see the hot wires. Why 20 amp receptacles?
How do I fix my kitchen tile under my cabinets my husband didn’t cut out the tile correctly on one of my outlets and now it sticks out
This is how I've been doing it for years BUT I found if I add some bolts and washers placed in-between the box and back of the outlet to create custom spacers then it gives more strength to the outlet. In the past I used to drill holes in paint sticks slightly larger than the screws and use those as spacers. Either works fine
Amazon has them, and I bought them two months ago. Great product.
They also have (tubular) spacers that you cut down to the needed length and put the screws through to hold the fixture out at the correct distance.
@@VC-Toronto If the box is recessed by more than 1/4”, you need to use a box extender to be code compliant. If the surface material is combustible (e.g. wood), it has to be flush.
@@VC-Toronto Thank you.
@@tempesttube Thank you, the electrician put the boxes in before I could put the drywall in then disappeared. I am doing this on my own, and it's always good when people help you out.
With all the supposed electricians commenting, I find it amazing I appear to be the first to ask:
Why are your receptacles upside down?
Looks like the brand of box extension is Arlington.
Great tip but why is there such a huge gap top and bottom? I assume you didn’t do the tiling.
I can no longer count the outlet extenders I add due to tile guys just using the face plates to screw the outlets to, pretty sad...
I just purchased these through Amazon (also available at HD) for a Reno project that is just like this!👍🏼 and I am also a bit anal-retentive about screw slots matching 😉
"Carpenter" is French-Canadian for handyman?
No, it’s French Canadian for Drywaller 😂
HD sells them too.
My electrician told me I would need to go to a wholesaler to find the two-gang extender. He did say the singles are at HD.
👍👍
Where are all the electricians calling our man out for calling them "outlets" instead of "receptacles."?
Y'all give us plumbers cr@p about it. Ben can take it.
Receptacles are outlets. Outlets are not necessarily receptacles. Here either term is fine.
Outlet is a electrical box to access electrical wiring , either for receptacle, switch , ceiling light , smoke detectors etc…
In the US they have these awesome adjustable boxes that move in and out but seemingly not available in Canada. Canadian code needs to get with the times!
LoL. Six Thirty-seconds...
They're "Six Thirty Two." #6 screw with 32 threads per inch.
In the prehistoric days, we recycled newspaper for this job.
Shout out for trigger finger control. Drives me nuts when somebody squeezes it like it’s a firearm. Use it like the variable speed control it is, please.
Home Depot have plenty.
My electrician charged me 250.00 to do this to one outlet, took him 5 minutes and before I could see what he did he had it fixed like you did. What a rip off.
Comment #1
Pronounced "Six" "Thirty Twos" as in size 6 shank with 32 threads per inch
as opposed to 8 - 32s, or, 10 -24s, or 1/4 - 20s etc... etc...
It's six -thrity two, not six -thrity second,,there are 32 pitches per inch alone the length, not the fraction of diameter
Having two GFCIs in the same box is a little crazy. You only need one. If wired properly, the second set of outlets will trip the other outlet's GFCI. Waste of money.
Those receptacles are on different circuits
It is the only way to convert the split receptacle we have in kitchen in Canada without replacing the 14/3 with 12/2 or using an expensive gfci breaker
But why the 2 gfci outlets? Hard to imagine they are are two different circuits. Should just be one GFCI, and one regular outlet wired downstream from it.
This is a trend I've seen on a number of home remodels and fix-and-flips. All receptacles in the kitchen are GFCI and often (as in this case) 20A receptacles. I don't know where this comes from--some overly cautious interpretation of the code? Or a misunderstanding of how GFCIs work in the first place?
It is possible in some kitchens to feature multiwire branch circuits, whereby each outlet on a receptacle is a different circuit (both tabs are broken on the screw terminals), and in the case they would be retrofitted with GFCIs, you might need to put in a double gang box with two GFCIs since you can't land two circuits on one GFCI (one per circuit).
Also, NEC allows 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits. The pass through current rating is greater than 15 amps on a 15 amp receptacle. The 20 amp version buys you the awkward looking receptacle that zero people own devices for. 20 amp circuits are great in kitchens to support multiple
To circuits in one box
If the tile installer would have installed the tile correctly you wouldn't have to put that extension box in
Perhaps the existing receptacles were flush with the existing wall surface. What is your solution if that is the case?
@@ustabee6091 you cut the tile so the ears of the receptacle sit on top of tile and notch out for the screw. Sometimes screw is long enough to reuse, sometimes we have to add a longer screw
You still need the extenders to match code. The outlets are existing too far out of the box.
@@460sw3 So it’s OK to place the tile so it covers the top and bottom portion of the box? I suppose so since the tile isn’t flammable.
314.20
Thanks for sharing
Weird thought: I think you need to wear a burgundy bathrobe and spin off a different channel - calling it “Hefner’s highlights”.
You just have that young Hugh Hefner panaché.
Actually??…..I take that Hefneresque moniker back: you’re more like a young & debonair if not dashing Clint Eastwood if you look at some of his early movies….plus he’s got a much better character (like yours) than the Hef.
well played not liking Amazon crap
good, never recommend amazon for anything ever. no one should ever associate with that company
Hello my friend,
I’m an old hardware man and I can’t help but cringe when you refer to the screws as “six thirty seconds”. It is not a fraction. The screw that you’re using is actually a six thirty two. The first number six is the thickness on the wire gage scale. The second number, 32, is the number of threads per inch.
My apologies for being so anal!
You’re wonderful. Merry Christmas
My wife is a vertical and I’m a horizontal…..guess who wins.😂
Why are so many still using screw plates? That some 1980s stuff ppl, it’s horrible
Thanks!
Thank you so much Roy!!! I hope you are well!!!