2 Tricks To Tighten Loose Electrical Outlets, Switches
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- Опубліковано 28 січ 2020
- Do you have any loose electrical outlets that wiggle like crazy on the wall? You try to plug in a lamp or vacuum cleaner and the who outlet pushes in or out or is just loosely hanging the wall. In this how to electrical video, we show you 2 Tricks To Tighten Loose Electrical Outlets, and switches.
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We see this all the time, a loose electrical box in wall is compounded by lousy construction practices by the builder, and their electricians and drywall hangers. They cut the rectangular outlet box hole in the drywall too big, so now the electrical outlet ear tabs have no meat on the wall to push against. This electrical fail leads to you having a loose outlet that pushes back into the already loose outlet box. If your plastic wall plate shatters, now you have an extra dimension of loose outlets, because the outlet plate helps keep the outlet from sinking back into the outlet box. Then when you plug in a lamp you'll feel the loose electrical plug.
loose outlet fix
If you're looking for the loose outlet box fix, it is quite simple. You get a package of Outlet Spacers (5-Pack): amzn.to/2U7SlUe and they fold up like an accordion to build up the space you need to fill from where the outlet box screw hole is to the front surface of the drywall.This keeps your loose electrical outlet from pushing backward toward the outlet box, because that gap is not occupied by the shims to force the outlet to be a certain distance out front of the outlet box. - Навчання та стиль
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Good information...thumbs up simply for "Whoever put this outlet in was clearly drunk".
Do you have the link to the outlet covers? Thanks! Also, thoughts on these spacers?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0897QVYFL
you put the top screw in the wrong hole.
@@nicholassheehan2070 However worked on the outlet before stripped the screws so I had to come in at it from an angle
I have a lot of these loose outlets and it drives me nuts
I like how you showed you cleaning up at the end... far too many electrians, plumbers, or just "handy men" just leave a mess. Great video!
Yes I like a neat clean area and I always admire when other contractors leave and make it look like they were never there that's what always impresses me about them
yeah many new home builder electricians leave pile of dust in the socket area.
The previous person who used the long screws to fasten the outlet knew you were going to use shims so the long screw came in handy.👀👍🏽
Yup, it's funny they didn't know to use the shims, but people think you solve this problem just by getting long screws.
😂lol
Great tips Jeff! I like metal outlet cover instead of plastic and those spacers are an excellent idea,never knew they existed before your video,so thanks!
Awesome, glad to help out!
Gotta say one last thing.....really do like the outtro music you have👍🏻👍🏻
Great video Jeff. I’ve ran across loose outlets before but didn’t know what you could do to fix them, till now. Thanks for the education....
You bet, hope it works out for you next time you encounter one!
Just ran across and watched this video, i'm glad that you made this video, Jeff. I didn't know that those spacers and even that box extender were available. Thank you!
Those spacer combined with the metal plates are a godsend!
I've come across this issue many times over the years when doing DIY outlets. But what I did was put tiny washers over a longer screw and then screwed the outlet snug against the box. It worked well for me.
I opened up my neighbor's outlet and found a dozen 8-32 nuts the electrician used for spacers.
Great video, thanks. I usually run in 2 screws through the box and into the stud at an angle. Seems to work well.
works good on wood, but these are thin metal studs and you have to drill head on. Impossible task.
Thanks for the tips, Appreciate the production quality too, great video and audio.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you very much😊 I was able to do it all by myself🤗
You are welcome 😊
Thanks for the info and for showing more than one way to solve the problem. About to repair 2 outlets (yes I will turn off the power first😊) and replace the covers as well.
Glad I could help thanks for watching Joe
Just use jiffy clips.fix it right.
Thanks! This was great and exactly what I was looking for.
Glad it was helpful!
Really appreciate you Jeff. I bought a new build home and the builders refused to fix some of my outlets that had this exact issue. They said it's "normal". I'm so glad I came across your video and you also linked the parts!!! Look forward to more of your content!! Thanks again Jeff!!!
Jeff just happened to be "surfing" through vids n came across ur outlet repair tips. Awesome !!! Dont have similar problem but acquired knowledge just in case. Dig ur COOL handy tool bag N dat CRAZY portable vac ! Relieved u placed a link for both ! Kudos for this upload. Anticipating ur next one. Peace
👍🏼🗽Greetings from NYC. Thanks you just up'd my home improvement game . 😂
Thanks for watching and glad to help up your game!
Excellent explanation of the loose electrical outlet problems and how to correct them without replacing the box.
Thank you Jeff for this video. This is one project I need to do.
You can do it!
Loved this🥰 There can be so many diff issues that go wrong. Great tutorial. 😸
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Very impressed! Learned something new! Thanks!!!!
Glad to hear it!
Happy wholesaling!! Great video.
Thank you for all of your video contributions Jeff, I was unaware of the those spacers being available, glad I watched this one, this was off topic of what I usually watch from you (engineering observations).
Glad to help Kat!
THK Jeff! I have the same problem where I live, and now know how to fix it 😎.
Great deal Juan, you'll have it fixed in no time!
That was a great video. I just subscribed. You spoke very clearly and I love how though you used the extender ring and it didn’t quite work, I like how you showed us step by step to fix this. Because sometimes things do not go right with us home guys just trying to save $200 by not having an electrician fix this.
Glad it was helpful!
I was looking at spacers last week. What a coincidence.
Great minds think alike
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for your video!
You are so welcome! Hope it solves your loose outlets
Thank you! And it wasn't my fault for yanking the plug!!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it! Alma!
Great video great tips, thanx
Glad it was helpful!
I have been using those handy spacers for years. The ones I get are the bright yellowish ones. I have used small washers, lengths of small diameter copper tubing and metal strapping that comes in steel and copper. It comes coiled in a box and has holes in it already, you can fold it up to make it thicker, there is some that comes in plastic material as well. You usually use it for hanging pipe, etc.
Don't know why they do it but the boxes are supposed to be mounted out from the studding so it ends up being flush with the drywall/wallboard. But it gets mounted flush with the studding instead. That box being so loose and being installed wrong. So many like that I have just removed them and installed new. Yeah it's a lot more work but I always feel better about it afterward.
Yes, and the boxes that have the mounting bracket on them, should be positioned so that once mounted tot he stud, it ensures that the outlet will project out far enough to be flush with the front face of 1/2" thick drywall.
Didn’t know about metal plates or the spaces. Thanks!
Glad to help
Great video! This just goes to show how sloppy the work was in the production of these homes. Over-sized dry wall hole, incorrectly mounted plastic outlet box (mounted at an angle and loose and not secure). The only way to positively secure loose outlets is to fix the dry wall and close up the gap opening so the two tabs on the receptacle have something to be mounted to. For a house in escrow, no contractor will do that type of repair but certainly worthwhile for the homeowner to do afterwards.
You are correct
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the $superthnaks Ken!
Great video, love electrical how-tos. Next time bite the bullet and fix the box itself, or do what I really want to see, outlet box refit/upgrade. All my boxes are micro-sized and whenever I want to upgrade the outlets I struggle with fitting in the new GFCI or dual AFCI/GFCI (or just better quality) outlets. Thanks Jeff and slow down on the content! I haven't finished watching "engineering disaster mission impossible" yet! :-)
I wanted to put in new remodel boxes also, I might make my own mock up drywall and do a video on it anyway. Friends were 100% out of cash, could not afford even getting more boxes, and with this house, we don't know what other surprises awaited us inside the wall. Can't just remove the outlet box that is loose, as it is attached to metal studs before drywall goes up, so it is pinched into place behind drywall. Only way to remove old box is slice up the drywall, which now requires 3 layers of drywall mud, sanding, repainting, more time labor money, and we had our backs against the wall with timing and getting things done.
That was bad ass , I appreciate you sharing this much info. THANK YOU
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Thank you for video, I got what I needed
You're welcome!
Dude, this video helped so much! Thank you!!!
Glad to hear it!
Thank you! The box extender trick worked great for me
You're welcome!
When you said "clearly drunk", I felt that. The dude who did my kitchen was a drunk and now here I am trying to fix this issue.
YEs, this happens too much down her ein FL
Thanks jeff
Glad to help henry!
i used small metal washers ,may 3 or 4 for each screw..will now look into outlet spacers. thx
Good, the outlet spacers are much more effective, and I can't tell you how many washers or nuts I've seen at the bottom of outlets.
Great video 👍
Glad you enjoyed it thanks for watching!
I always carry extra 14 gauge wire for this reason...After removing the top screw, I place the screw flat against the box and eyeball (measure) the distance between it and the dry wall...Let's say it's one quarter inch...I take a piece of 14 wire and wrap it around the shaft of a small screw driver, then cut 1/4 inch section and place it on the screw after feeding it back through the top hole...then I screw it all the way in and repeat for the bottom screw if necessary...The wire acts as a spacer or washer and the receptacle will not sink back into the wall...
that's a good idea, wire shim!
Land the plane. Some good points for a rental property or mediocre presentation. Pull the grey box...Re wire with remodel box and tabs to secure to Sheetrock. I see how it works and will now not move in the wall. Not optimum but it did work. If the end user is good with it and you can live with it - Rock on!!!
I like this. Way more solid approach than the spacers which will compress.
The shims are code approved and wire wrapped around the screw is not approved Learn to do it right the 1st time quit being a hack
I have been doing the wire shim for years. I remember discovering one on a job done by another electrician and I have been doing it ever since. Dislike running to the store or buying stuff if I can. :)
Clean Install bro.
Thanks Mandeep
Great video. I learned a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
You can easily slide that outlet side ways through the arc shield with out cutting anything.
Thank you for your video
No you can't easily slide that outlet in fact you can't slide it at all, because it is screwed into the metal studs and the screws are behind the drywall so you can't even get those screws to loosen the outlet and move it away that's why we use this black plastic Shim spacers to do the trick for us without having to be invasive or without having to remove the outlet or the box and also remember in some cases you wouldn't be able to move the outlet anyways because the electricians put just enough wire to get the outlet to exactly where it is and there's no slack for you to even be able to move the outlet box if you wanted to
Outlet spacers made by ideal are sold at Home Depot work great
Yes those are the outlet spacers we used, bought them at Home Depot.
Nice tips. Also, I've put a screw through the box to secure it the stud.
Yes we normally do that that also but in this case it's a metal stud and there's absolutely no way on heaven hell or earth you're going to get any screw to go through that plastic at the angle that you would have to get it into to get into the stud and then get it to spin in place an cut through the steel stud it's virtually impossible you have to be directly head on 90 degrees perpendicular to the stud to get a screw to penetrate or even a drill bit as well if you were going to try to do a pilot hole
@@jeffostroff I disagree...pre-drill the hole, then drive the screws into the metal stud. Easy Peasy. And I realize you were showing the box extender for demonstration purposes, but it really is not a good option for overcut boxes. Shims work great as long as the workbox is secured (won't move), and that you don't shim too much that it causes a safety issue by bringing the side wired connections beyond the workbox opening. With all that said...thanks for the video. It's always great to hear others opinions and suggestions.
Always good to learn something new thank you
Our pleasure!
I like how he showed a case that was not easy, required a lot of trial and error, and ended up greatly improved but not perfect. That's what I think most of us would probably deal with in a situation like this. Far too many DIY channels give easy examples that give the false impression to the average DIYer that the project is easy; only for them to hit a snag and not be able to solve it.
Yes and when you look at the videos on Lowe's and Home Depot those are filmed in like Disney World type perfect environments where nothing ever goes wrong in sort of la la land and every hole is cut perfectly square and every electrical outlet box was installed perfectly by people that actually knew what they were doing
the outlet spacers are a life saver
Yes, these are the DIYer's best shot at repairing this issue
thanks
Thanks for watching our video, glad to help out
Thanks for the videos. The box is probably next to a stud. You could have toe nailed a couple screws inside the box and into the stud first, than used the outlet spacers. Even if the box was metal you could have predrilled holes for the screws. They also make nylon Wall plates that are considered unbreakable.
You can't toenail these, because these are thin metal studs. It's hard enough trying to screw in straight on into the stud, but coming at an angle is impossible. Maybe if it were wood life would be better
I love metal plates. Totally worth the $1 price tag (retail).
Yup, some guys are really cheap and have told me they fuse to spend the money! Really, $5 to outfit an entire room with them, and some case you really have no choice, especially with warped drywall.
If connections go bad metal plate will conduct electricity to your body
Thank you Jeff this video was PERFECT. I appreciate the thorough walk through.
Glad you enjoyed it!
You could just pry out the old box and put in a blue plastic remodel box. Also since the top grounding hole is broken, change the outlet out too. I like to use the more flexible commercial plastic plates especially on uneven walls.
The problem is these are metal studs, so the outlet boxes are attached to the front of the studs, and the drywall goes on top, no way to pry them out, they have to be cut out. Several switches in their townhouse the drywall mud bump around the switches was so poorly feathered that the plastic plates crack from the stress of screwing them in under pressure over these humps.
Every outlet in my apartment is like this and it drives me nuts. I dont want to tell my LL cause the electric guys they call come in, punch holes or damage the the walls and just leave. They leave their mess for ME to clean up, and leave me to tell my LL that they punched holes and damaged the walls. No professionalism.
You just gave me a great weekend project.
You'll feel much better when you see how easy it was to fix it yourself.
As an apprentice, one solution you're taught is to coil bare solid copper wire, around the 6/32 mounting screw ... helps maintain grounding continuity as well.
That's what I did in my house when the box is metal and set back a bit. It does improve grounding contact surface area, but the box must be metal and already grounded to the electrical panel. 14 gauge wire works well.
also please do more Costco Deals I love those as well.
Did you see the Costco deals video we uploaded last week?
You mentioned another option was to use some kind of adhesive, but I couldn't understand the name. Could you share that? (Great video btw. Just subscribed to your channel.) I did a complete re-wire of my 120-year-old house. and the first outlets When I started, I cut outlet holes too big. Now I've got 5 loose outlets. I'll fix this weekend. Yay!!!
Hey Jeff,
I'm one of your 'neighbors' from the nearby community of Parkside - and I really like your vids.
My townhouse, built in 1984, needs a replacementof an original grey plastic J box. I've got the wires disconnected from the receptacle, have an "old" J box on order from Amazon, but I'm wondering how to dismantle the older J box to pull it out from the wall, without breaking the wall and without the wires falling behind the wall. I've searched for and have found NO vids demonstating this.
Please consider making a video on the subject. Since I've subscribed, I'll receive the notification when you (hiopefully) publish it.
Many thanks, Jeff!
BTW - It would probably be easier if the receptacle would be at the end of the line, it would have fewer wires to deal with, but mine has 3 blk and 3 wht wires, plus ground wire ! Big mess, little space, wires coming into box from several ports.
That's one way. If the box is against a stud, I'd drill a couple of holes in the side of the box and drive some wood screws through those holes into the stud to keep the box from moving around. If no stud, I'd replace the electrical box with a PVC PVC Old Work electrical box that clamps itself to the drywall.
Yes we love to use those blue boxes with the drywall clamps
If you alter a box by shooting screws through it youve altered the box and it wont pass code. Its a no biggie but the inspector already saw it so hes gonna check.
Really I'd replace the box in that situation. Not that hard with experience. With that being said I'm an experienced electrician so your method would be good enough for the average home owner.. Good video.
I got news for you every single outlet in that place should be replaced! Normally when I take over a foreclosed property I replace every switch and outlet whether they need it or not but this was a friend's house and they had no money whatsoever to pay for anything else
I use a homemade spacer. When you purchase wire shelving they give you plastic anchors for drywall. These anchors are white & they’re pretty long, I never use them, because I always drill into the studs to hołd shelves. I cut these to the length I need and these work perfectly. Thanks...Jim
Great adaptation! Anything that shims that space will work, washers, nuts, plastic.
And we are live )))
Bought a house in Atlanta years ago where the inspector found no problems with the outlets. Go to plug vacuum in and the outlet goes in breaking the plate. The place had another layer of sheet rock added and all of the boxes were recessed. I spent hours removing plates and inserting those plastic spacers just to get all of the outlets usable. All home inspectors are not necessarily good inspectors. At least there were no outlet problems found when I sold the house.
Thanks for sharing they should find stuff like that by testing outlets with a plug in outlet tester
Hey Jeff, just saw this video. I don't think any outlet installed in the 70's in Florida had the drywall around it cut right😂, I see this same problem all the time down here. Won't be publicly sharing my quick fix though😂😂😂
You're the one that gets me is nobody ever covered up any outlets before they spray painted them so the wires always got painted
@@jeffostroff did you see that the electricians bag you linked to in this video is $35 @Amazon, normally around $70.
Ok yes I've used the "RACO" PLATES and I've used the plastic shims that you've used here. But I will tell of yet another trick that I've used many times successfully and that is take a scrap piece of #12 AWG solid wire and twist it into a curlyQ works exceptionlly well with old 1½" thick plaster
Yes another electrician mentioned that yesterday he said he does that all the time as well
I just use machine nuts as shims or for the gap u had, i'd use a wire crimp sleeve.
I just the plastic fCeplates in my house. That application def. Needed that metal one though
Yes nuts can work, but it drives me nuts. I had to do this repair at my next door neighbors house also a couple of weeks ago. His previous owner of that house was an "electrician" for lack of a better word, I had to fix numerous of his code violations, and on the outlets that needed shims, I kept finding nuts all over the inside of them, over a dozen in one outlet, so someone removed the outlets at one point and never put the nuts back on, that's why I hate them, preferring the snake like connectivity of the outlet shims. Always use the tool or part designed for the job.
I like that vacuum.
I love it too, just got it on Black Friday, here's the link to it: 💲 Milwaukee 0880-20 18-Volt Cordless Wet/Dry Vacuum amzn.to/2P6VaAF
until you see the $120 price tag
@@onenikkione I got the vacuum free during a black Friday sale when they were charging a $199 for a charger kit with 2 batteries and you got the tool for free
Never even knew they made spacers For outlets, I always used washers, and they are very difficult to stack, Interesting to Note they also make taps For different size machine screws machine screws If you’re dealing with a metal outlet and the screw holes are stripped out you can run one of those taps through it And go to the next larger size Number machine screw
I might try that next time on the tap
@@jeffostroff The tap saved my butt On my kitchen remodel, backsplash was done and there was no replacing this four switch box without making a huge mess Klein makes the tool cat number 625-24
The wire spacer can use in the wall in the ceiling anywhere you need space an plus it insulates your long screwfrom touching any current in the boxes
I have tried all the solutions, but so far these plastic spacers work the best for me
You should still use the spark ring. Per the NEC 314.20 In Wall or Ceiling.
In walls or ceilings with a
surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncom-
bustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or
faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box,
plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be
set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4in.).
You know that's a good point and too bad that the builders don't use adjustable boxes because we see this all of the time and the time and there are only a few cents more for a Box that you use a Philip's screwdriver to turn an adjustment screw that pulls the outlet Box flush with the front edge of the dry wall.
Maybe I lack patience, but I feel like videos like these could be done in 3 minutes.
Good to know for next time, less talk more work
I use small washers that I place over the screw and then tighten ... the washers wedge between the box and the back of the outlet. You can adjust the number to "time out" depth.
Yes, I have seen others do that as well. I worked on some outlets where the previous guy used tiny hex nuts
Ideal (brand) sells plastic outlet spacers you can stack up to make up for the space between the box and drywall.
That is exactly what we show in the video sharp minds think a like also you will see links to it in the description
@@jeffostroff All great minds do think a like! Looking forward to watching this.
Saving money and time is one thing!! Do it right is doing it right!!!!!
yup
Hi Jeff my question to you is I need to replace my outlet plate I dont think I can cut the power I did discover that there is a type of screwdriver that is safe for energized equipement would you recommed I use it ( it it should insulate you against the voltage found in your home ? ) thoughts please thank you
I use screwdrivers from Milwaukee that are insulated screwdrivers that protect up to a 1000 V. But I still always turn off the power today outlet. It's never a good idea to play with it live
I found that a metal screw through the plastic box's left side would secure the box to the stud. Then for spacers just metal nuts at lest eighth inch thick and placed through the electric receptacles. two .032 fasteners. Needed supplies: a few metal nuts, a long wood screw and that large plate would be handy.
Yes problem is in this house they used real thin metal studs, very difficult to get a screw into it because it flexes when you try to run a pilot bit. We would have done this if it were wood studs.
i have that problem right now old house im going to get me some spacers i just have to figure out how much to roll up thanks
You are on the right track for the fix!
WHY? Why did you not replace that god aweful ugly hideous outlet while you did the rest of the work? They are so inexpensive!
Every outlet in this 37 year old townhouse looks like this, many are painted over, good luck changing every one of them and dealing with all the issues of poor drywall at every outlet. Time, time, money and money, my friends were 100% out of cash, I even would have given up a few outlets out of my own stash, but I don't stock these older style outlets, I only use the newer decora type outlets, much more modern and nicer looking. they had not time, under contract with buyer, had much worse problems on that list that I had to work on. They finally closed on it last week, glad's finally all over. Lots of stuff I would have liked to do to that place.
@@jeffostroff thank you for the video! I also like to replace all of those old style outlets with newer more modern versions.
Hmm... #1 why would you go to do a job that has no money? unless you are donating time and materials. #2 who cares if you only have decora outlets in your stock, replace the #@*$@* outlet, I would never reinstall that piece of crap outlet. #3 did you say that there is a metal stud? I’ve never seen a plastic box mounted to a metal stud before.
Thanks for the great info and video! I was a newlywed 20 yrs ago when we bought a house with old wiring, had a friend of new hubby start. He left 2 outlets like that when we got rid of him, borrowed some money from my mom to finish it. Wasn't enough bc as you said, bigger issues. Anyhow, hubby's gone to heaven, I'm trying to fix stuff by myself. I started watching your channel I think about plumbing stuff. We were so in love we bought house "as is", 1st time using washer, flushed toilet during spin cycle, water came up the toilet, tub, sink. We just lived with it, set rules for anyone visiting, etc. There are no vents for plumbing! I'm adding oatey vents, going pex, replacing rotted wall behind washer by myself now. The outlets have bugged me and there's a light switch that kind of sparks when toggled. I just don't use it. Any advice there?
Thanks again for your videos!
Anyhow, what are the larger outlet covers called, where get them and the decora outlets?
@@jennygraudins4360 sounds like your switch has bad contacts inside it, I would replace the switch, and make sure the wiring is tightened down on the switch terminals, if the wiring is not tight you could get the arching that you are hearing, but I bet it is most likely the contacts inside the switch. the Decors outlets, everyone has now. The wider plates I use are these: www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-1-Gang-Duplex-Maxi-Metal-Wall-Plate-White-Textured-PMTW-D/300716391
Great video, I have a question my oulet is loose but inside it has 2 plastic arms how do I get it tight?
Thank you.
Are you saying the outlet box itself is loose? Is it blue plastic like this one with the 2 arms? www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-20-cu-in-Blue-PVC-Old-Work-Electrical-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-B120R/202077323 If it is like this one, get a Philips head screwdriver, find the Philips head screw on those 2 arms, and tighten it down.
@@jeffostroff thank you for replying is white but same principle, 2 flanges one on top one on bottom at opposite corners. Is thigh now.
Thank you.
Those black rubber spacers are essential.
Yes that is what ships up the gap and limits the front to rear movement of the outlet.
Hi, I found your video while searching through a problem I'm having. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think this particular video addresses my issue.
My outlet has two plugs like the one shown in this video. The top one, however, lets say I plug something in kind of heavy, like an electric toothbrush that has a box-shaped plug vs just a regular plug, it hangs most of the way out once I let go and eventually may fall out. I don't think it even stays in far enough to get a charge. This only happens to my top plug, so I've been stuck with basically only one usable plug on my 2-plug panel. The bottom one holds onto things ok, and again, it's just anything plugged in on top falls out.
What's the fix for this one? Do you have a video on it as well or did this video cover that and I just didn't seem to catch onto that?
Your only fix here is to replace the receptacle because once it gets so loose like that that it can't hold items then it's time to replace it that probably has happened from people yanking on it over the years sometimes with vacuum cleaners and I've seen people do this where they've broken the prongs on the plug on their vacuum cleaner because they're always yanking them out of the wall
Great video thanks I’m going to try it out… I think I had the same drunk guy do my outlet…
he's been a busy guy
I put small hex nuts..works for me
Oh and someone made the comment about turning the reciptcale over with the ground upside down. I was taught that you only put them in upside down if you were A from Australia or B if your were making a dedicated run for from a generator.
Yes putting the outlets in upside down stemmed from the idea that if somebody should drop something metal down on a plug that isn't plugged in all the way, the metal would hit the ground lead first since it's upside down and nothing would happen but this is just such a far fetched scenario
I turned all of my outlets 180degrees, with the grounds up. I was told to do this by a home inspector who said that it is safer in case a metallic object would happen to fall behind a plug that wasn't fully inserted. Seems like a lot of factors would have to align themselves before it could actually cause a problem, but it actually gave me a good excuse to replace all of the cheap plastic covers with metal ones.
yes we've seen a few people do this.
I would think it would be worth replacing the receptacle with a tamper-resistant one. And maybe replace the box with an old work box that would clamp in back.
That was not in the scope of the repair, and the homeowners did not have enough money to pay for anything else.
I also add a couple of bugle head screws through the side of the box, into the stud. That stiffens up the box.
yes, works well with wood studs. With metal studs 100% impossible to get a screw to go in at an angle, it just walks around all over the metal stud. Can't even pilot hole drill at that angle.
Hi, using a non contact tester, I show both white and black as hot, also a large area of the wall from the box up 30" and to the side about 20" this happens to every box on this circuit, Also all along the ceiling to the light. The outlet's work fine, and test good for the correct wiring. I checked all neutral and hot appear to be correctly wired. Note they are using 4 wire cable to include the switch. Note the tester works correctly on other circuits, 3 wire, only the black shows hot and I have to get really close to the other circuits to see they are hot. I only have the issue with this one breaker.
They should not both be hot. Sometimes what happens when wiring switches is they will use the white wire to run from the switch up to a light for example or from the switch to an outlet but there should be like a black piece of tape on the end of it or something to indicate that it's not the neutral so cannot diagnose from the description but you may have to open all switch and outlets on the circuit and inspect the wiring. Does outlet test show correct wiring? My preference is use red wire for switches to eliminate confusion
@@jeffostroff the outlet test shows it's wired correctly, The both wire's may not be hot, when I place the non contact tester anywhere around the outlet and wall show it's hot, even 24" away from the outlet's. I will get a volt meter and actually check both wirer's for voltage. The positive non contact test no where near the outlet is puzzling to me.
@@jeffostroff I checked this again with another non contact tester, the white isn't hot but the wall area still shows as hot from the switch up the wall to the light. One suggestion is that since this shows up as the wooden wall and ceiling heading from the outlet to the light that there may be a nail through the wire causing leakage in this area. The first 3 outlet's in this series all teat good, No issues with leakage into the wall.
Wow thanks for filling in what a girl doesn't know about outlets!
Glad to help Eva
I used a single gang box in my kitchen that mounts to a stud on the short side because it had to be mounted horizontally (above counter on half wall). The box is super loose and obvious mostly on the opposite side from stud. Basically the edge on opposite of stud pulls out. Any tips for that?
It is hard to attach to the stud like that unless there is no drywall in the way. I use these homedepot.sjv.io/15gjkd PVC Old Work Electrical Outlet Box (1-Gang with tabs that clamp on the back of the drywall and you screw it down, best outlets ever.
The upper receptacles ground plug had molded plastic cracked off. Is that ok per code?
I always prefer to have a fully intact outlet, so I would replace it
Hate to say it but you are wrong about using the "ears" on the outlet holding the outlet steady by being on the outside of the wall. In fact, you have probably noticed that the outer parts of the ears are scored, allowing them to be partially broken off. The pieces that are broken off become spacer washers. The electrical box was probably not mounted right to begin with, that's where the trouble began. Most often the box is held to the wall by nails or screws into the stud. It's kind of hard to drive the nails into the stud some more. I've found that sometimes after removing the outlet, can drill holes in the metal or plastic box and drive screws into the studs. Once this is done the outlet can be put back into the box. If it is resessed too much, those little washers can be used as spacers to set the proper amount of protrusion of the outlet. Once it's screws are tightened down, the outlet should be rigid. When the plate is installed, the outlet should be flush with the plate and not wiggle.
I've been referring to boxes that are used pre-construction. If the boxes were installed post construction, that's a different story, the box still has to be tightened up somehow, for another day.
I own my own place but am temporarily renting another residence and the landlord doesn't have a maintenance and he has some loose outlets. I haven't took the covers off to see exactly why its moving but one of them I fear is a loose box itself. I know for a fact he wouldn't want to repair it. I personally would just cut a 12x16 section and use a palm nailer to set the nails back securely and maybe use some type of adhesive in the holes if the nails are a little loose still. Let it set and box the sides and patch the drywall. Is that really up to firecode just sandwiching the plate and box against the drywall? That may secure it but idk if that is up to code
Usually what we do is go to home depot and buy the blue remodel boxes, and what those are are plastic outlet boxes that have 2:00 a.m. on the back that once you stick it into the hole and the wall, that you use a screwdriver to start screwing this yet are screwing the screw until it pulls the arm tight against the back of the drywall you do this for both arms. Then you have a nice snug Box that is really the better way to do it.
Well ... the outlet box is *supposed* to be *flush* with the installed drywall. Then those "wings" on the receptacle can ... with the help of the screws ... "sandwich" the drywall in between ... holding the whole thing in place and when plugging and unplugging prevent movement. The reason for the outlet to be loose is because it was never attached in such a way it got more and more loose.
But it is nice that you say ... you seen that since you where young. I come from Europe ... and there we do not have this problem. Most houses are made of stone ... and electric outlet boxes are affixed using a stone mix putty, the receptacle is simply screwed into the non-moving outlet box affixed in the wall.
I came to US to find the house I live in here ... *all* of the electric outlets are not installed correct. Half of the outlets here, have the receptacle not catch to anything ... which means if you try to plug in something it moves back in all the way ... the box isn't flush with the drywall either. And if it is not that ... they are somewhat loose. I even have a few non working ones around here. Ugh.
The outlet box you referred to with the wings on the side, those are remodel boxes, used when you are remodeling a house years later. When the house it built, they are supposed to attach the outlets to studs then the drywall is placed over them and the outlet holes cut out.
Hey Jeff where can you pick up those spacers for electrical outlet
Here it is, Outlet Spacers (5-Pack): amzn.to/2U7SlUe we had the link in the video description, along with the other tools we used in this video.
Hey Jeff thanks for that link to amazon for the spacers
Just what I was looking for...thanks for the info and amazon link as well. gracias.
Glad it was helpful!
I will check all conductors in the box even after you cut the breaker off because I ran into a situation with three hot feeds off of different circuits