I'm told this Polish climbing shop will resling your cams. www.lhotse.pl/uslugiszwalnicze/ Comment below if you know if they will do this to a cam older than 10 years because I don't know.
I'm just assuming, but as an eastern european myself, I think they don't give a damn. They'll say its your own risk, and do whatever you want, if you pay them. Life is still cheap around here 😅
I resling my cams there at the 7-year mark not because of the poor sling condition, but simply because the cam's manufacturer manual scared me of what may happen after 10 years with the sling. And they weren't concerned about the previous sling or cam production date. They're not the cam manufacturing or testing centre to examine your hardware and decide if should do it or not. But what is the point of limiting the resling above the 10-year mark if your cams are in almost perfect shape? I believe the 10-year manufacturer recommendation to throw your cams to the trash is because of the slings' safe lifetime (same as any climbing textile recommendations, such as harnesses unless worn sooner or damaged) and not because of the cam's mechanical/hardware degradation. No manufacturer assumes their cams will ever get the resling and the weak point after years of using is certainly the sling. You could do a break test comparing the same model hardware of a cam by omitting the sling - one brand new and one manufactured a decade ago if even such a long-line cam model exists.
Hey I've lengthened cams with tube tape. You make a full loop where once you tie and seat (load it) your water knot you end up with a figure 8. Cam is captive and only one loop to clip. I used full width 26mm tape and felt safe on it.
The sewing branch of Lhotse is just what it's called - a sewing service. You point them what/where/what material (polyamide 16mm or dyneema 11mm)/length you want them to sew and they will. What differentiate them from other similar companies is that they are willing to complete small orders from retail customers as opposed to bulk B2B orders. The Lhotse sewing service conforms to all norms when it comes to the material and sewing process, not the whole final "product". They are are pretty clear about that.
Just watched a load of these. Speaking as a fat old man who's never going to climb anything that isn't stairs, but who appreciates engineering and is a bit nerdy about knots, the channel is great. Sub'd
You should definitely try. I exposed my father to it when he was 61 and he’s addicted now at 65 and in better shape than ever. It have him a new purpose❤
DMM did my cams. Including one that was 20 years old. Service was great. They came back feeling like new. This kind of service means I will prioritise DMM over other brands when i buy new shiny things.
In Poland, there is the Lhotse company which manufactures harnesses, slings, quickdraws, etc. For around $5 a piece, they're reslinging any cams (not sure about totems, though). Along the shipping costs it may be a nice option for European climbers. You'll get the kN rating label attached to each sling.
"You'll get the kN rating label attached to each sling." So, in theory, you'd be safe using these in a professional setting (e.g., securing a climbing cameraman). At least, in the criminal dock you'd have a fighting chance of turning a "culpable homicide" or "reckless endangerment" charge into something less serious (with consequences for your next decade's insurance bills).
@@MrCombic And the problem with that would be ... ? (Though I doubt the sling material - if it's one of their "standard products" which they're building around the wire of a cam - would achieve it's nominal strength if it were slung between krabs.)
After watching this video, I sent a few old cams (some had super sticky triggers, etc.) to Metolius to see if they could revive them. I have no clue what kind of witchcraft they do at their factory but I’m absolutely astounded by the work they did. I was expecting a resling, but in addition to that the cams were totally polished, lubed, and indistinguishable from brand new ones. I would pay the $5/cam + shipping a thousand times over.
With the test with the Ocun 8mm 13.26kN you managed to tie the slipknot version of the bowline on a bight. It's hard to describe, but this can happen if you make a mistake tieing the bowline on a bight. The bonus is that even if you tie the knot the wrong way, all that happens is that the double loop will tighten up like a slip knott but won't come undone.
@@sportenapfeltorten2095 I'm afraid I only remember that the postage for 4 cams was more than the cost of the re-slinging. BD clearly doing it just as a service, not for profit (at that time, 2 years ago).
I will concur, I sent Metolius 3 cams. On Two of them the cams would slide apart because the spacers were long gone. They reslung them, replaced the missing rubber spacers with c-clips, and polished them to a brand new shine for like $20 total. They’ll also fix any springs or wires if you request and pay for it. I had a super good enough experience with Metolius re-sling service.
I got a Camalot reslung years ago by taking it to a harness and saddle maker (harness gear for horses, not climbing) because I knew he had a commercial bar-tacker. He put in the six bar-tacks exactly as on the original and it worked for years. I don't climb much now, but still have it. I figured a guy who made gear that had to hold race horses would know how to make it strong enough.
I had Yates do my whole rack a couple years ago. They were great to work with and it took just a couple weeks. It's cheap insurance and now all the webbing colors are consistent between sizes of different brands and models.
I’ve done it with both Yates and Mountain Tools over the years. That’s definitely the crux of it, you never quite know what color they will choose, so you have to be Ok with that. Even if you are very clear about the color, it will be what they have on hand. Whatever material they have on hand too. Your Aliens may be hard to tell at a glance from your Camalots. Yates did a much better job in my opinion. I wouldn’t use Mountain Tools again given their color choices and the overall look of what I got back (although I have no worries about the safety). My buddy had really good luck with Runnout Customs, but they were a long time out last I did this. Agreed, cheap insurance!
Just got my cams back from Mountain Tools a few days ago. They did a great job and turned them around in about a month. Reslung a couple rigid stems that I had that were older no problem.
Maybe the basket method is best but using one of those rubber things you get on a quickdraw to hold the loops in place on the carabiner. It would look the most professional and I can't see how you could accidentally unclip one of the loops.
Specialist sling sewing machines will use (or at least they used to) use needles which injected high pressure air in front of it's passage through the webbing to prevent any fibres from being damaged during sewing. So sewing on a regular sewing machine can damage the webbing as one sews (no matter how good you sew and unless one can seriously test their sewn designs, u are playing RR with your life and any one who might take a big fall on said gear, ok so I guess everyone here prob knows this LOL. When I replaced my slings on my cams I simply used quality climber's tubular tape, overhand knot (Yes I know all knots reduce the strength) and have fallen on them many times (ok until I replaced them again and again over the years). Ok not suggesting anyone should do it but I started climbing before any of the commercially available slings were easy to buy and I'm still alive. A lot is common sense fo climbers. Great video as always. Hope u are doing well. U look it.
Years ago I reslung my Wild Country Friends (too old for Wild Country to do it) using dyneema and the basket sling method. I used a running stick in a dyneema thread to hold the basket 'loops' together but not to take any load, just to make it obvious where to clip.
I don't mind inches too much, but small measurements in imperial are just a pain. Socket wrenches and drill bits are the best example. Super easy in mm, but a nightmare in imperial
@@thorwaldjohanson2526 yes, and you're even used to them. 1" and 0,5" I know what these look like but 3/8"?! I'll have to get my calculator out and most times I don't during watching a video.
@@leveller4if that's exact enough for you and all you care to know... ;-) I'm a german engineer, textile technology engineer to be precise, so I'm very interested in precise measurements. The difference between a 8.9mm and a 9.2mm climbing rope regarding smooth rapelling can be astonishing, for example. This difference would be 3/254" for you, so basically "nothing", but it's still 0,3mm, something you can easily see with your eyes. And 3/8" is 9.525mm BTW, I did want to know now! :D
@@dereinzigwahreRichi "but it's still 0,3mm, something you can easily see with your eyes" or two thicknesses of an Imperial standard toenail. Approximately.
I have a set of very gently used BD Camelots that are well over 10 years old. They've been in a box in the garage for that long. Would like to still use them some in the future, so i had been wondering about exactly this in the last few months. Great job with the video!
The end of the video gets specific on this. The claim (not mine, not hownot2's) is that it's illegal to modify another company's ppe product. Maybe. Also something about 10 years. It's not clear. DMM (Wales) & Totem (Spain) are both mentioned in the video.
@@josephprice5872the problem is that typically the original manufacturer states that it's forbidden to modify. If a company does it anyway and sell it to an private customer, they legally become the manufacturer and have to give warranties.
Writing this comment at 3:30... Maybe going to find out how super good enough my accessory cord replacements on my old style rigid friends were for the 7+ years I used them! Edit at 7:22 "looks for how I can like this video twice..." Edit at 25:40 I was happy enough with the accessory cord. It already looked ghetto because it was on an old rigid cam. The knot bulk didn't really cause a problem. I was re-cording some hexes too so I just slapped cord on the cams. Now I have new cams 😂 Brilliant video as always!
I got my cams reslung by Runout Customs this winter. Sent out, reslung, and back at my doorstep within 3 weeks. I know this won’t always be the case but I was shocked how fast the turn around was. They look great and brought some life back into some old BDs
I got an old rack of cams to use as a second rack year ago. I ended up using 7mm coord since I though it would be strong enough in a loop. I don't usually use them on anything hard and I don't care about the bulk. It came out to about $1.7 in coord per cam, so the price was right. Has worked good so far.
Could you load test a sling attached via a Prusik knot to the eye of the anchor? Thats what our SAR teams use for high angle rescue rope sets here in Nova Scotia when we bring hikers up from steep shorelines. The thought being that the prusik distributes the force evenly over a wider area then just a single strand would allow.
We already exchanged emails about this but at 24:00 it'd be super interesting to see whether we can make extendible slings like this (kind of like the DMM Dragons) which would help tremendously for keeping harness weight down. My first choice for this would be the Blue Ice Alpine Runner.
most of my metal gear is either DMM or Black Diamond, both from Go Outdoors (a UK retailer). Haven't had any fail on me yet. That being said, the hardest I've ever treated any of my gear has been a full send abseil off an 80ft railway viaduct to get a good angle on some roosting pigeons...
When I was caving, you'd never rely on a single anything for anything. At least two of something (natural, cam, bolt, nut, piton, chock stone), and of preference in at least two separate crack systems for any main belay. For a runner/ deviation / rebelay, the existing rope from above can be one of your links, but if you're talking about a belay where people may be hanging around for a breather, you'd want at least one extra connection point to the rock. It's less the breaking of the ironmongery, as that you're - almost by definition - hooking into part of the rock that is already fractured. Not that limestone is the strongest of rocks any way ...
Vote for MtnTools. Larry's wealth of experience is staggering. He will also re-sling with longer-lasting nylon webbing rather than Dyneema on request. Great video. I learned something; hadn't thought of a bowline. Nice.
When basketing a cam, you should already have it done correctly on your harness when you remove it, right? Or else it would have fallen off. As long as you don’t remove the carabiner when placing it, it should stay good.
If the EU has regulations banning the repair or alteration of PPE products, that's probably only for PPE used in a professional setting. I think it's more about protecting construction workers from their bosses being cheapskates than anything else.
Yes and no. Yes these regulations come from the professional environment. But they will apply in case of an accident even in a non professional setting, if the repair job failed and the company having done the repair can be tracked down. But in the case of realigning cams my information is that it's not really illegal, rather so much paperwork that it would be crazy expensive.
There are no regulations forbidding this. Especially for professional fall arrest ppe repair is completely normal in the EU. It's a businesses choice of the manufacturer :-(
CONGRATS Master!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very Interesting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank You very much!!!!!!!!!!! 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯 Best wishes.
Your most clickbait title yet :) Maybe not in Europe but in the UK however (Wales to be precise) DMM *will* repair/re-sling cams! So respect to DMM and Black Diamond!
My climbing experience predates cams. So I'm looking at this out of technical interest. What is the purpose of the little bit of sling? It seems you need a carabiner between the sling and the rope ... why not just a carabiner through the cable loop?
You want a bit of extension to allow the mouvement of the rope to dissipate in the sling so that the cam stays in place and don't "walk out" the crack. Also a carabiner directly on the cable pinches it in a bad way. It's ok but suboptimal.
@@moonti6820I'm slightly surprised there aren't models of krab these days with a varying cross-section so that the ends have slightly larger bending radii at the loop ends. You'd need it a both ends, but that's a "meh". You'd be talking about drop-forged aluminium, but that's normal already, isn't it?
As I just started Trad climbing and totally like, I just watched your video again. I think I missed one thing: What about resling a DMM Dragon cam with a 7 or 8mm cordellet like it was slinged with the original dyneema one? Best regards from Germany
would you gain any strength if you ran the 8mm accessory cord in, around and through the anchor a second time before tying the double fishermens knot? So that some of the cord force is tensioning around the cable instead of just pulling on it aka slightly more load distribution w/o hardly any extra cord used.
Why did you not include Marten at Dark Arts Splicing? He advertises that he will resling a variety of cams, and is even working on figuring out totems. I have talked with him, and he seems legit, and has break tested the shit out of his work.
Honestly the re-sling service from Metolius is impeccable. I sent mine in during Covid, from Canada. They came back super fast, it was cheap and they actually did look like new.
I don’t even use this gear and find it fascinating. My usual is limited to a full body harness with a GriGri and double pelican clips for climbing LED walls.
The manual for tricams (at least used to) say that they can be reslung by the user with a "grapevine" knot, which is basically a double figure 9 tied with webbing. This makes using tricams even more miserable though, as the OEM sewn sling is very rigid and is useful to place (and, more importantly, remove) them. I have used this knot to resling cams and have felt confident with the results, though it takes a lot of material. Based on your pull tests, the weakness is not the knot for tied nylon slings. Thus, if the grapevine knot solves the danger of the knot coming untied, this would seem like a legitimate method. That being said, I had never thought of the basket-hitched half-length sling - I would probably be quicker to whip on that than my tied sling.
It has been a long while since I was "Equipment Officer" for the caving club, so I'm not up to date on these modern materials. But "ANYTHINGcord" doesn't sound like a good match for going over steel wire. The contacting edge of the "circle" of cord would be prone to extreme crushing forces, and I'd suspect would downrate the cord significantly. It's a bad enough effect with tape, but would be worse for "...cord". IMO. I'm out of the game now, but it would be interesting to see experimental results.
@@RenatoUtsch I did watch the entire video (what sort of moron doesn't? I know - an all-too-common moron). I may have missed the phrase used - or dismissed it as yet another trade name - which come and go to the point of not being worth remembering. Here one decade, gone the next. The next time I dig my rigging-sack out, I'll see if the only "Friend" I've ever used is still in there (or did I lend it to a friend and never get it back?). It was never much use to me for *my* ropework. Actually, I doubt they have any use outside recreational climbing.
Holy sh*t, Ryan, since the store opening and having all that stock on hand, I feel you! I need to break a cam! It's like this is the episode I've been waiting for - just before opening the store, I had like 20 cams reslung (❤MtnTools), built up a lot of new gear and for all the thousands of pieces I've watched you break, this was like a big crescendo vid. Thanks - for all you do.
Thoughts on spliced dyneema loops for this? What about on something like a dragon or old BD with a wider metal thumbrest (larger bearing diameter for the sling?)
A question that i have would be at what value the cam breaks if you clip a carabiner through it. Ik black diamond says something about-2kN but it would be interesting to know
I had this very question when I reslung my mid-2000s set of CLOG cams with almost zero use but 20ish year old slings! I reslung with Titan cord because of the swaged hole stem. Triple fisherman’s and two loops of cordage. I like the quick link though - that would have been ideal. They’re retired but available as backups!
I thought of this during your video where the old tat sling resulted in the fatal accident but now that you've shown off that you have a steel wire crimper, what do you think about steel wire with crimped eyes or eye spliced ends used as 'tat' anchors on places deemed "too nice" to drill a few half inch holes? and add some real hardware? Basically, wire rope slings used for professional rigging, but you can make your own to test the concept a lot cheaper than buy certified ones for now. If it gets spray painted before it is brought up it can be made to blend in more than whatever tat happens to be left behind and should be able to last substantially longer as well. Bonus is that steel and stainless steel are recyclable so that when it is time to replace it the old stuff can go to the scrap yard instead of the trash so there's that selling point.
No, pretty much. Caving has been going through this question for years. Heavily-used anchor locations generally get "done" with stainless steel shaped "P" anchors held in place with two-part epoxy. When (not if!) the steel wears, the epoxy can be drilled out, the anchor pulled, and a new one glued in place. Wires are prone to internal rust, so you can't trust it if it has been left in place for donkey's years. That's probably a lot of the reasoning behind the 10 year lifetime on cam bodies, regardless of any re-slinging.
@@a.karley4672 I can't say I've ever heard of a hard time limit on cam bodies other than the dynema based BD Ultralights before. If it hasn't been left outside for years there is no reason to question old cams or nuts.
@@alexnone5720 The metalwork, I'd agree. The plastic shrouding over the cables, where the tapes bear ... that's a bit more debatable. How much the plastic deforms and flows into the wire surface, versus cracking and parting, probably has a lot of effect on the tapes, and that is likely to be affected by the "plasticisers" (additives in the plastic mix), many of which are appreciably volatile and/ or oxidation-prone. When I stopped running hardware, cams on tapes were just being introduced - not that we used cams anyway - and we (me, Caving Club treasurer, members) just ignored the question. Metalwork, bolts and slings fulfilled our needs for the training ground and underground.
How about: dyneema sling with a basket hitch, heat shrink tube to keep the four strands aligned, and passing the ends of the sling around a grooved O-ring to form a loop for clipping?
Why do the climbing manufactures not use a caus in the back end of the cams this would prevent pinching/hard bending the cable, when you look at hevy duty lifting wires they are almost always reinforced in the loops . Bending steel wire around hard sharp corners is shortening the life of the cable severely. Using a caus will also protect carbineers and metal links better if clipped directly into the wire loop.
Because they don't need to, that's added weight for added strength that isn't needed, we would never ever see forces that would break the cable in a climbing scenario apart from very weird edge cases.
16kn aluminum quick link, wow. I happily use a tripled sling with 2 biners (basically a QuickDraw) on a second generation gold Camalot backup piece. I’ve also had cams reslung professionally, recommended :0)
Your tests mostly show that radius of the cable to dyneema loop is the most important factor because the loop fails where a sharp bend occurs. It doesn't fail at a normal diameter carabiner. Wider straps fail at the edges of the strap, then the failure progresses to the center. Geometry is critically important. So wider loops, or webbing with the same strengh will fail sooner than narrow but thick loop with the same tensile strength.
The risk of the water knot coming untied can be reduced by tieing a bear knot and sowing it? Maybe I dont know how much sowing reduces strength but could a little stitch keep the knot from coming untied
Adhesive? In tape? OK, I've been out of the equipment game for a decade, and only "doing" family stuff for the decade before that. But I've literally never heard of any sort of adhesive being used in the construction of a tape "anything". The necessary strength comes purely from the friction between lengths of tape, as a consequence of the squeezing force applied by the stitching at so many tens of kilos per stitch. (Looking up ...) There are probably surface coatings, from the extrusion equipment. But I doubt they're sufficient volume to be a significant factor in finished article strength. Wiki for Dyneema/ UHMWPE says "The fiber's very high lubricity causes poor knot-holding ability, and it is mostly used in pre-sewn 'slings' (loops of webbing)-relying on knots to join sections of UHMWPE is generally not recommended, and if necessary it is recommended to use the triple fisherman's knot rather than the traditional double fisherman's knot." ; I'll note the triple fisherman's ; I've used it for years in "donkey's dicks" and "cow's tails" in 7mm doubled nylon. "Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF) is a laminated material consisting of a grid of Dyneema threads sandwiched between two thin transparent polyester membranes." - a fabric, not a tension material. Nope, I don't see evidence for an adhesive in sling manufacture.
non-climber here, so the answer might be obvious to other people: Why couldn't you just put a locking carabiner through the cable loop on the cam? something thicker than the minimum allowable bend radius of the cable?
in a 'mid depth' placement, the metalwork you specify can be 'sideloaded' resulting in catastrophically reduced breaking strengths for the carabiner. (HN2 has done a vid on this.) the closest suggestion in the above vid is the "aluminium reusable chain link" (quick link) @ ~15mins 22 in. a "structural soft fabric solution" will act as a redirect for the forces mitigating this, hence why manaf's supply the cams with slings.
Hey, question #2. If the cables are breaking consistently around 11kn, and a girth-hitch dynema breaks around the same, what’s the difference? Why not just put a sling on them, especially if you use a basket?
What about splicing a grog loop through the thumb loop? Maybe even do a second wrap so you can have an extendable sling or do multiple wraps inside a chafe cover so it doesnt pinch the thumb loop
Instead of taping the sling, what happens if you do a whipping type thing with some thread to keep the sling in place? Not in an attempt to add strength just to keep the loops organised so it's easy to clip them both.
Great job on everything you do but please do critique of other climders that do major climbs like the one in Patagonia, the guy that bakes muffins on the wall. That would be really cool. I'm an old Cave diver that loves the heights.
Having actually been in the CMI factory when somebody was bartacing stuff (that's the name of the special stitch they all use), it is a painstaking pain in the arse and uses a special kind of sewing machine. Multiply that significantly for something one's own company can't just drop in a jig and run through on near autopilot. (We also got to watch them break shit. Factory tours are awesome when you can get them.)
I use Edelrid hardline 6mm dyneema round cord with a triple fisherman's and the nylon sheaf sewn to the dyneema core at the tails to prevent sheaf slippage. Allowing for knot should be good for 13kn in a loop.
I always felt that a doubled sling girth hitched would give better spread on the cable along with double strands like a basket but without the risk of it falling off 😂 There’s just an insane amount of options though 🤯
Simplest is to use accessory cord with a double fishermans. Strictly speaking it's not illegal to my knowledge the problem is that the company has to certify the end result as safe. Which is very problamatic.
@@HowNOT2 would doubling the length and passing through the Cam twice (as per DMM DragonFlies) resolve the length issue you mention? (So far i have not found a "splicable" that is listed/rated for rock climbing use in the UK.)
Interesting vidéo. If you want to significantly increase resistance of a rope or a sling in the knot or stress point , you should shealt it . Like it is made with kitesurf lines for exemple.
Rope Access we consider it to be approx 70% for a choker. Petzl give an actual figure for their 22kn anneau nylon sling of 16kn, which is 72.7% so not far off.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm told this Polish climbing shop will resling your cams. www.lhotse.pl/uslugiszwalnicze/
Comment below if you know if they will do this to a cam older than 10 years because I don't know.
I'm just assuming, but as an eastern european myself, I think they don't give a damn. They'll say its your own risk, and do whatever you want, if you pay them. Life is still cheap around here 😅
I resling my cams there at the 7-year mark not because of the poor sling condition, but simply because the cam's manufacturer manual scared me of what may happen after 10 years with the sling. And they weren't concerned about the previous sling or cam production date. They're not the cam manufacturing or testing centre to examine your hardware and decide if should do it or not. But what is the point of limiting the resling above the 10-year mark if your cams are in almost perfect shape? I believe the 10-year manufacturer recommendation to throw your cams to the trash is because of the slings' safe lifetime (same as any climbing textile recommendations, such as harnesses unless worn sooner or damaged) and not because of the cam's mechanical/hardware degradation. No manufacturer assumes their cams will ever get the resling and the weak point after years of using is certainly the sling. You could do a break test comparing the same model hardware of a cam by omitting the sling - one brand new and one manufactured a decade ago if even such a long-line cam model exists.
They'll resling whatever you want :) The only difference is that the sling won't be the same color as original BD sling.
Hey I've lengthened cams with tube tape. You make a full loop where once you tie and seat (load it) your water knot you end up with a figure 8. Cam is captive and only one loop to clip.
I used full width 26mm tape and felt safe on it.
The sewing branch of Lhotse is just what it's called - a sewing service. You point them what/where/what material (polyamide 16mm or dyneema 11mm)/length you want them to sew and they will. What differentiate them from other similar companies is that they are willing to complete small orders from retail customers as opposed to bulk B2B orders. The Lhotse sewing service conforms to all norms when it comes to the material and sewing process, not the whole final "product". They are are pretty clear about that.
Just watched a load of these. Speaking as a fat old man who's never going to climb anything that isn't stairs, but who appreciates engineering and is a bit nerdy about knots, the channel is great. Sub'd
Hey bro I see fat old guys trad climbing all the time
You should definitely try. I exposed my father to it when he was 61 and he’s addicted now at 65 and in better shape than ever. It have him a new purpose❤
I'm about a year away from having the opportunity to do the industrial alpinist course and exam but this is keeping the fire lit in me lol
DMM did my cams. Including one that was 20 years old. Service was great. They came back feeling like new.
This kind of service means I will prioritise DMM over other brands when i buy new shiny things.
My electrician ass reading that as "Digital MultiMeter" got really confused
In Poland, there is the Lhotse company which manufactures harnesses, slings, quickdraws, etc. For around $5 a piece, they're reslinging any cams (not sure about totems, though). Along the shipping costs it may be a nice option for European climbers. You'll get the kN rating label attached to each sling.
"You'll get the kN rating label attached to each sling." So, in theory, you'd be safe using these in a professional setting (e.g., securing a climbing cameraman). At least, in the criminal dock you'd have a fighting chance of turning a "culpable homicide" or "reckless endangerment" charge into something less serious (with consequences for your next decade's insurance bills).
Still, you have to understand the difference between the sling rating and the cam rating. You may get 22kN sling on a 8kN cam...
@@MrCombic And the problem with that would be ... ? (Though I doubt the sling material - if it's one of their "standard products" which they're building around the wire of a cam - would achieve it's nominal strength if it were slung between krabs.)
After watching this video, I sent a few old cams (some had super sticky triggers, etc.) to Metolius to see if they could revive them.
I have no clue what kind of witchcraft they do at their factory but I’m absolutely astounded by the work they did. I was expecting a resling, but in addition to that the cams were totally polished, lubed, and indistinguishable from brand new ones. I would pay the $5/cam + shipping a thousand times over.
Did they do any brand cam? or only metolius?
@@Eliteabeththey only do Metolius cams.
“One metric inch” 😂
I mean, 25.4mm is technically a metric measurement.
Don't ask me what an imperial kilo is tho 😂
Well, there's something called a Paris Inch...
There is also a Swedish inch, a bavarian inch, turkish inch, a Amsterdam inch and a hamburg inch... To name a few...
well. inch is officialy defined by metric anyway. sooo technically it is a metric inch xD
2.5cm is often referred to as a metric inch. Also 30cm is a metric foot.
Having Black Diamond relatively local for my whole life has certainly been a bonus when it comes to stuff like this.
In my opinion, this is one of the most useful videos you've made!
Wow! This was an expensive video to tell people to not buy slings from your store. Respect, my friend. You’re killing it.
What an excellen tpoint
You are the definition of a scientist!!! You are saving life’s on this channel❤
Wait, what? Ryan not testing sofshackle or dyneema loop splice???
He pinned it, but didn't reply. That's just adding insult to injury 😂
Is been quite a while since he's done highline-specific stuff
Yeah, 12 strand dyneema would be good to know.
13:00 and as a conasour of the bowline, I have never seen it tied like that before, that's a slick way of doing it
I couldn't tie it like normal because the sling was too short to go over the cam so I had to reverse engineer another way.
@@HowNOT2 it was a very cleaver way to do it
FYI, it's "connoisseur".
@@thomasdalton1508 yes, thank you
@@thomasdalton1508how do you spell dinosaur?
With the test with the Ocun 8mm 13.26kN you managed to tie the slipknot version of the bowline on a bight. It's hard to describe, but this can happen if you make a mistake tieing the bowline on a bight. The bonus is that even if you tie the knot the wrong way, all that happens is that the double loop will tighten up like a slip knott but won't come undone.
BD have kindly reslung my cams when I've posted them across the Atlantic from the U.K. Takes a while but well worth it!
That sounds great.
What did it cost you per cam?
If you dont mind.
@@sportenapfeltorten2095 I'm afraid I only remember that the postage for 4 cams was more than the cost of the re-slinging. BD clearly doing it just as a service, not for profit (at that time, 2 years ago).
@@sportenapfeltorten2095 I have heard they do it for free we just have to pay for shipping both ways.
@@sportenapfeltorten2095 BD used to do it for free as long as you paid the shipping. I'm sure they don't do it now.
@@sportenapfeltorten2095they charge $10/cam for a resling + shipping
I will concur, I sent Metolius 3 cams. On Two of them the cams would slide apart because the spacers were long gone.
They reslung them, replaced the missing rubber spacers with c-clips, and polished them to a brand new shine for like $20 total. They’ll also fix any springs or wires if you request and pay for it.
I had a super good enough experience with Metolius re-sling service.
I got a Camalot reslung years ago by taking it to a harness and saddle maker (harness gear for horses, not climbing) because I knew he had a commercial bar-tacker. He put in the six bar-tacks exactly as on the original and it worked for years. I don't climb much now, but still have it. I figured a guy who made gear that had to hold race horses would know how to make it strong enough.
- love the equivalence confidence, (with little commonality between sports..) fantastic, I'm sure it was extremely well done.
I had Yates do my whole rack a couple years ago. They were great to work with and it took just a couple weeks. It's cheap insurance and now all the webbing colors are consistent between sizes of different brands and models.
I’ve done it with both Yates and Mountain Tools over the years. That’s definitely the crux of it, you never quite know what color they will choose, so you have to be Ok with that. Even if you are very clear about the color, it will be what they have on hand. Whatever material they have on hand too. Your Aliens may be hard to tell at a glance from your Camalots. Yates did a much better job in my opinion. I wouldn’t use Mountain Tools again given their color choices and the overall look of what I got back (although I have no worries about the safety). My buddy had really good luck with Runnout Customs, but they were a long time out last I did this. Agreed, cheap insurance!
yates seems to be the only ones that will do others/out-of-biz makers
Just got my cams back from Mountain Tools a few days ago. They did a great job and turned them around in about a month. Reslung a couple rigid stems that I had that were older no problem.
Maybe the basket method is best but using one of those rubber things you get on a quickdraw to hold the loops in place on the carabiner. It would look the most professional and I can't see how you could accidentally unclip one of the loops.
I would suspect a rubber washer would work too.
so many useful phrases in this episode, love it! Metric inch may be my favorite.
I have a 110ft steel tape measure I use for cave surveying, marked in feet, tenths of a foot, and hundredth's of a foot. Metric feet are real things!.
Specialist sling sewing machines will use (or at least they used to) use needles which injected high pressure air in front of it's passage through the webbing to prevent any fibres from being damaged during sewing. So sewing on a regular sewing machine can damage the webbing as one sews (no matter how good you sew and unless one can seriously test their sewn designs, u are playing RR with your life and any one who might take a big fall on said gear, ok so I guess everyone here prob knows this LOL. When I replaced my slings on my cams I simply used quality climber's tubular tape, overhand knot (Yes I know all knots reduce the strength) and have fallen on them many times (ok until I replaced them again and again over the years). Ok not suggesting anyone should do it but I started climbing before any of the commercially available slings were easy to buy and I'm still alive. A lot is common sense fo climbers. Great video as always. Hope u are doing well. U look it.
Such a useful (and expensive) video. Thank you!!
Cam slings just are everyone's bane
Years ago I reslung my Wild Country Friends (too old for Wild Country to do it) using dyneema and the basket sling method. I used a running stick in a dyneema thread to hold the basket 'loops' together but not to take any load, just to make it obvious where to clip.
So, if you need to be precise you're switching to mm instead of weird fractions of freedom units, I as a European really appreciate that! :-)
I don't mind inches too much, but small measurements in imperial are just a pain. Socket wrenches and drill bits are the best example. Super easy in mm, but a nightmare in imperial
@@thorwaldjohanson2526 yes, and you're even used to them. 1" and 0,5" I know what these look like but 3/8"?! I'll have to get my calculator out and most times I don't during watching a video.
@@dereinzigwahreRichiwell 4/8 would be half an inch, so 3/8 is... a little less than half an inch
@@leveller4if that's exact enough for you and all you care to know... ;-) I'm a german engineer, textile technology engineer to be precise, so I'm very interested in precise measurements. The difference between a 8.9mm and a 9.2mm climbing rope regarding smooth rapelling can be astonishing, for example. This difference would be 3/254" for you, so basically "nothing", but it's still 0,3mm, something you can easily see with your eyes.
And 3/8" is 9.525mm BTW, I did want to know now! :D
@@dereinzigwahreRichi "but it's still 0,3mm, something you can easily see with your eyes" or two thicknesses of an Imperial standard toenail. Approximately.
I have a set of very gently used BD Camelots that are well over 10 years old. They've been in a box in the garage for that long. Would like to still use them some in the future, so i had been wondering about exactly this in the last few months. Great job with the video!
Depends on how you define Europe? DMM will resling and service your cam for a modest fee (just not those from other brands)
Probably meant EU regulation. I was also surprised to find that in the EU you can't get avalanche packs refilled (have to exchange for the canister).
The end of the video gets specific on this. The claim (not mine, not hownot2's) is that it's illegal to modify another company's ppe product. Maybe. Also something about 10 years. It's not clear.
DMM (Wales) & Totem (Spain) are both mentioned in the video.
@@josephprice5872the problem is that typically the original manufacturer states that it's forbidden to modify. If a company does it anyway and sell it to an private customer, they legally become the manufacturer and have to give warranties.
@@josephprice5872 Yeah that sounds familiar and reasonable. That's why I mainly have DMM gear!
Metolius customer service on re-slinging is spectacular.
I've re-slung my rack back in 2011 and again in 2021.
A+ Metolius team, I salute you.
Writing this comment at 3:30...
Maybe going to find out how super good enough my accessory cord replacements on my old style rigid friends were for the 7+ years I used them!
Edit at 7:22 "looks for how I can like this video twice..."
Edit at 25:40 I was happy enough with the accessory cord. It already looked ghetto because it was on an old rigid cam. The knot bulk didn't really cause a problem. I was re-cording some hexes too so I just slapped cord on the cams.
Now I have new cams 😂
Brilliant video as always!
I got my cams reslung by Runout Customs this winter. Sent out, reslung, and back at my doorstep within 3 weeks. I know this won’t always be the case but I was shocked how fast the turn around was. They look great and brought some life back into some old BDs
hahahahaha I loved the "this is a way to guarantee that no one will climb with you because it looks sketchy" xd , true tho . awesome content Ryan!
…And if everyone made such professional videos like you guys , the world would be a better place. 👏
I got an old rack of cams to use as a second rack year ago. I ended up using 7mm coord since I though it would be strong enough in a loop. I don't usually use them on anything hard and I don't care about the bulk. It came out to about $1.7 in coord per cam, so the price was right. Has worked good so far.
Could you load test a sling attached via a Prusik knot to the eye of the anchor? Thats what our SAR teams use for high angle rescue rope sets here in Nova Scotia when we bring hikers up from steep shorelines. The thought being that the prusik distributes the force evenly over a wider area then just a single strand would allow.
really curious about this as well
Awesome video as always guys, and Thank You for all that you do for the community!! 👍👍
We already exchanged emails about this but at 24:00 it'd be super interesting to see whether we can make extendible slings like this (kind of like the DMM Dragons) which would help tremendously for keeping harness weight down.
My first choice for this would be the Blue Ice Alpine Runner.
most of my metal gear is either DMM or Black Diamond, both from Go Outdoors (a UK retailer). Haven't had any fail on me yet. That being said, the hardest I've ever treated any of my gear has been a full send abseil off an 80ft railway viaduct to get a good angle on some roosting pigeons...
When I was climbing I was told to never rely on a single cam. 2 cams as a system fine, cam and a nut fine, single cam with no backup, not fine.
When I was caving, you'd never rely on a single anything for anything. At least two of something (natural, cam, bolt, nut, piton, chock stone), and of preference in at least two separate crack systems for any main belay. For a runner/ deviation / rebelay, the existing rope from above can be one of your links, but if you're talking about a belay where people may be hanging around for a breather, you'd want at least one extra connection point to the rock.
It's less the breaking of the ironmongery, as that you're - almost by definition - hooking into part of the rock that is already fractured. Not that limestone is the strongest of rocks any way ...
Vote for MtnTools. Larry's wealth of experience is staggering. He will also re-sling with longer-lasting nylon webbing rather than Dyneema on request. Great video. I learned something; hadn't thought of a bowline. Nice.
So useful! Thank you Ryan!
When basketing a cam, you should already have it done correctly on your harness when you remove it, right? Or else it would have fallen off. As long as you don’t remove the carabiner when placing it, it should stay good.
I think the main issue is extending it, but I agree that it would be pretty obvious that you clipped it wrong.
If the EU has regulations banning the repair or alteration of PPE products, that's probably only for PPE used in a professional setting.
I think it's more about protecting construction workers from their bosses being cheapskates than anything else.
Yes and no. Yes these regulations come from the professional environment. But they will apply in case of an accident even in a non professional setting, if the repair job failed and the company having done the repair can be tracked down. But in the case of realigning cams my information is that it's not really illegal, rather so much paperwork that it would be crazy expensive.
There are no regulations forbidding this. Especially for professional fall arrest ppe repair is completely normal in the EU. It's a businesses choice of the manufacturer :-(
Well put
@@ggrimpecom Thanks for clarifying
CONGRATS Master!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Very Interesting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank You very much!!!!!!!!!!!
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Best wishes.
FYI,
Dark Arts Splicing in Vancouver BC is another option for reslinging any brands, including TOTEM!
Your most clickbait title yet :) Maybe not in Europe but in the UK however (Wales to be precise) DMM *will* repair/re-sling cams! So respect to DMM and Black Diamond!
how is UK not in Europe
Outside of EU ... @@shoqed
Last time I checked, the UK was still part of Europe, unless a whole new tectonic plate was part of Brexit ;-)
My climbing experience predates cams. So I'm looking at this out of technical interest. What is the purpose of the little bit of sling? It seems you need a carabiner between the sling and the rope ... why not just a carabiner through the cable loop?
You want a bit of extension to allow the mouvement of the rope to dissipate in the sling so that the cam stays in place and don't "walk out" the crack.
Also a carabiner directly on the cable pinches it in a bad way. It's ok but suboptimal.
@moonti6820 or walk in and get stuck: annoying, expensive, and more likely!
@@moonti6820I'm slightly surprised there aren't models of krab these days with a varying cross-section so that the ends have slightly larger bending radii at the loop ends. You'd need it a both ends, but that's a "meh". You'd be talking about drop-forged aluminium, but that's normal already, isn't it?
Hi Ryan,
you tested a lot of stuff on a cable, but what about DMM Dragons, where the is no cable.
Could a 6 or 7 mm cord do the job for Dragons?
Great video Ryanm thanks
As I just started Trad climbing and totally like, I just watched your video again.
I think I missed one thing: What about resling a DMM Dragon cam with a 7 or 8mm cordellet like it was slinged with the original dyneema one?
Best regards from Germany
would you gain any strength if you ran the 8mm accessory cord in, around and through the anchor a second time before tying the double fishermens knot? So that some of the cord force is tensioning around the cable instead of just pulling on it aka slightly more load distribution w/o hardly any extra cord used.
I would like to have some information on that as well
Read the title and just needed to follow up with “everything is illegal in Europe”
Why did you not include Marten at Dark Arts Splicing? He advertises that he will resling a variety of cams, and is even working on figuring out totems. I have talked with him, and he seems legit, and has break tested the shit out of his work.
Honestly the re-sling service from Metolius is impeccable. I sent mine in during Covid, from Canada. They came back super fast, it was cheap and they actually did look like new.
metolius told me that they ran everything through steel ball tumbling. they did some ~1990 ones with spectra for next to nothing.
I don’t even use this gear and find it fascinating. My usual is limited to a full body harness with a GriGri and double pelican clips for climbing LED walls.
The manual for tricams (at least used to) say that they can be reslung by the user with a "grapevine" knot, which is basically a double figure 9 tied with webbing. This makes using tricams even more miserable though, as the OEM sewn sling is very rigid and is useful to place (and, more importantly, remove) them. I have used this knot to resling cams and have felt confident with the results, though it takes a lot of material. Based on your pull tests, the weakness is not the knot for tied nylon slings. Thus, if the grapevine knot solves the danger of the knot coming untied, this would seem like a legitimate method. That being said, I had never thought of the basket-hitched half-length sling - I would probably be quicker to whip on that than my tied sling.
What about powercord? It's thinner but just as strong as 7mm cord, might do the trick.
It has been a long while since I was "Equipment Officer" for the caving club, so I'm not up to date on these modern materials. But "ANYTHINGcord" doesn't sound like a good match for going over steel wire. The contacting edge of the "circle" of cord would be prone to extreme crushing forces, and I'd suspect would downrate the cord significantly. It's a bad enough effect with tape, but would be worse for "...cord". IMO.
I'm out of the game now, but it would be interesting to see experimental results.
@@a.karley4672 did you watch the entire video? He literally tested 7mm cord in this application.
Did you watch the full video? He tested exactly using 7mm cord over the steel wire.
@@RenatoUtsch I did watch the entire video (what sort of moron doesn't? I know - an all-too-common moron). I may have missed the phrase used - or dismissed it as yet another trade name - which come and go to the point of not being worth remembering. Here one decade, gone the next. The next time I dig my rigging-sack out, I'll see if the only "Friend" I've ever used is still in there (or did I lend it to a friend and never get it back?). It was never much use to me for *my* ropework. Actually, I doubt they have any use outside recreational climbing.
Informational and entertaining, awesome!
All those slings will be lost in time... like tears... in rain. Time... to DIY.
Holy sh*t, Ryan, since the store opening and having all that stock on hand, I feel you! I need to break a cam! It's like this is the episode I've been waiting for - just before opening the store, I had like 20 cams reslung (❤MtnTools), built up a lot of new gear and for all the thousands of pieces I've watched you break, this was like a big crescendo vid. Thanks - for all you do.
Thoughts on spliced dyneema loops for this? What about on something like a dragon or old BD with a wider metal thumbrest (larger bearing diameter for the sling?)
How would you resling a DMM Dragon? Is cord the only option?
A question that i have would be at what value the cam breaks if you clip a carabiner through it. Ik black diamond says something about-2kN but it would be interesting to know
I just bought a new bd-cam and it said exactly that in the manual.
But the test with the aluminum-Quicklink worked so well.
I am confused.
I had this very question when I reslung my mid-2000s set of CLOG cams with almost zero use but 20ish year old slings! I reslung with Titan cord because of the swaged hole stem. Triple fisherman’s and two loops of cordage. I like the quick link though - that would have been ideal. They’re retired but available as backups!
I thought of this during your video where the old tat sling resulted in the fatal accident but now that you've shown off that you have a steel wire crimper, what do you think about steel wire with crimped eyes or eye spliced ends used as 'tat' anchors on places deemed "too nice" to drill a few half inch holes? and add some real hardware? Basically, wire rope slings used for professional rigging, but you can make your own to test the concept a lot cheaper than buy certified ones for now.
If it gets spray painted before it is brought up it can be made to blend in more than whatever tat happens to be left behind and should be able to last substantially longer as well.
Bonus is that steel and stainless steel are recyclable so that when it is time to replace it the old stuff can go to the scrap yard instead of the trash so there's that selling point.
No, pretty much.
Caving has been going through this question for years. Heavily-used anchor locations generally get "done" with stainless steel shaped "P" anchors held in place with two-part epoxy. When (not if!) the steel wears, the epoxy can be drilled out, the anchor pulled, and a new one glued in place.
Wires are prone to internal rust, so you can't trust it if it has been left in place for donkey's years. That's probably a lot of the reasoning behind the 10 year lifetime on cam bodies, regardless of any re-slinging.
@@a.karley4672 I can't say I've ever heard of a hard time limit on cam bodies other than the dynema based BD Ultralights before.
If it hasn't been left outside for years there is no reason to question old cams or nuts.
@@alexnone5720 The metalwork, I'd agree. The plastic shrouding over the cables, where the tapes bear ... that's a bit more debatable. How much the plastic deforms and flows into the wire surface, versus cracking and parting, probably has a lot of effect on the tapes, and that is likely to be affected by the "plasticisers" (additives in the plastic mix), many of which are appreciably volatile and/ or oxidation-prone.
When I stopped running hardware, cams on tapes were just being introduced - not that we used cams anyway - and we (me, Caving Club treasurer, members) just ignored the question. Metalwork, bolts and slings fulfilled our needs for the training ground and underground.
How about: dyneema sling with a basket hitch, heat shrink tube to keep the four strands aligned, and passing the ends of the sling around a grooved O-ring to form a loop for clipping?
This🤙🤙🤙
Is the sling inspectable enough even if clear heat shrink is used for you to be happy?? & go easy with that heatgun folks!
Why do the climbing manufactures not use a caus in the back end of the cams this would prevent pinching/hard bending the cable, when you look at hevy duty lifting wires they are almost always reinforced in the loops .
Bending steel wire around hard sharp corners is shortening the life of the cable severely.
Using a caus will also protect carbineers and metal links better if clipped directly into the wire loop.
Because they don't need to, that's added weight for added strength that isn't needed, we would never ever see forces that would break the cable in a climbing scenario apart from very weird edge cases.
"One metric inch" totally caught me off guard 😂😂
could you test a reslinged cam? don't have to say who did it, just would like to know if it comes back the same
Ryan would it be safe to girth hitch a carabiner on the diy totem?
16kn aluminum quick link, wow. I happily use a tripled sling with 2 biners (basically a QuickDraw) on a second generation gold Camalot backup piece. I’ve also had cams reslung professionally, recommended :0)
Your tests mostly show that radius of the cable to dyneema loop is the most important factor because the loop fails where a sharp bend occurs. It doesn't fail at a normal diameter carabiner. Wider straps fail at the edges of the strap, then the failure progresses to the center. Geometry is critically important. So wider loops, or webbing with the same strengh will fail sooner than narrow but thick loop with the same tensile strength.
The risk of the water knot coming untied can be reduced by tieing a bear knot and sowing it? Maybe I dont know how much sowing reduces strength but could a little stitch keep the knot from coming untied
Is there a downside to a quick link directly between a carabiner and the cam with no soft goods? or maybe 1 loop of a pas in there
this is actually info i was looking for for quite some time thx
Options for New Zealand and Australia, aspiring safety do a re-sling service and are very good to deal with.
Anyone know if the adhesive in tape degrades soft goods and what tape should be used?
Adhesive? In tape? OK, I've been out of the equipment game for a decade, and only "doing" family stuff for the decade before that. But I've literally never heard of any sort of adhesive being used in the construction of a tape "anything". The necessary strength comes purely from the friction between lengths of tape, as a consequence of the squeezing force applied by the stitching at so many tens of kilos per stitch. (Looking up ...)
There are probably surface coatings, from the extrusion equipment. But I doubt they're sufficient volume to be a significant factor in finished article strength.
Wiki for Dyneema/ UHMWPE says "The fiber's very high lubricity causes poor knot-holding ability, and it is mostly used in pre-sewn 'slings' (loops of webbing)-relying on knots to join sections of UHMWPE is generally not recommended, and if necessary it is recommended to use the triple fisherman's knot rather than the traditional double fisherman's knot." ; I'll note the triple fisherman's ; I've used it for years in "donkey's dicks" and "cow's tails" in 7mm doubled nylon.
"Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF) is a laminated material consisting of a grid of Dyneema threads sandwiched between two thin transparent polyester membranes." - a fabric, not a tension material.
Nope, I don't see evidence for an adhesive in sling manufacture.
@@a.karley4672 he might have meant like in the white electrical tape used in the vid. (but loved your answer; excellently technical!!)
Maybe I missed it..
Can you test a Petzl avao harness?
non-climber here, so the answer might be obvious to other people: Why couldn't you just put a locking carabiner through the cable loop on the cam? something thicker than the minimum allowable bend radius of the cable?
in a 'mid depth' placement, the metalwork you specify can be 'sideloaded' resulting in catastrophically reduced breaking strengths for the carabiner. (HN2 has done a vid on this.) the closest suggestion in the above vid is the "aluminium reusable chain link" (quick link) @ ~15mins 22 in. a "structural soft fabric solution" will act as a redirect for the forces mitigating this, hence why manaf's supply the cams with slings.
12:35 What is a "metric inch"?
Hey, question #2. If the cables are breaking consistently around 11kn, and a girth-hitch dynema breaks around the same, what’s the difference? Why not just put a sling on them, especially if you use a basket?
What about splicing a grog loop through the thumb loop? Maybe even do a second wrap so you can have an extendable sling or do multiple wraps inside a chafe cover so it doesnt pinch the thumb loop
When are you going to test harnesses and belay loops? Tie in or carabiner clip in test?
Instead of taping the sling, what happens if you do a whipping type thing with some thread to keep the sling in place? Not in an attempt to add strength just to keep the loops organised so it's easy to clip them both.
Heatshrink tubing would work on the doubled sling. BTW I love those Trango low bulk slings!
clear for inspection? easy with the heat!!
Great job on everything you do but please do critique of other climders that do major climbs like the one in Patagonia, the guy that bakes muffins on the wall.
That would be really cool.
I'm an old Cave diver that loves the heights.
I'm quite surprised that companies will do reslinging for slightly less/same than it costs to buy the sling.
I don't even climb and I want a set of cams. They look fun!
What's the shelf life of harnesses ropes and sings?
Do they degrade by epping them in the dark dry basement?
Having actually been in the CMI factory when somebody was bartacing stuff (that's the name of the special stitch they all use), it is a painstaking pain in the arse and uses a special kind of sewing machine. Multiply that significantly for something one's own company can't just drop in a jig and run through on near autopilot.
(We also got to watch them break shit. Factory tours are awesome when you can get them.)
I use Edelrid hardline 6mm dyneema round cord with a triple fisherman's and the nylon sheaf sewn to the dyneema core at the tails to prevent sheaf slippage. Allowing for knot should be good for 13kn in a loop.
I would like to see you testing an dynemea rope string cordelette on cam. I was thinking to resling mine with that
I always felt that a doubled sling girth hitched would give better spread on the cable along with double strands like a basket but without the risk of it falling off 😂 There’s just an insane amount of options though 🤯
Simplest is to use accessory cord with a double fishermans. Strictly speaking it's not illegal to my knowledge the problem is that the company has to certify the end result as safe. Which is very problamatic.
Would be curious about a grog loop! Thanks for all the testing
For the diameter required to not lower the strength of the cable, you'd have to bury it so much that it would too long imo
@@HowNOT2 word makes sense, thank you!
@@HowNOT2 would doubling the length and passing through the Cam twice (as per DMM DragonFlies) resolve the length issue you mention? (So far i have not found a "splicable" that is listed/rated for rock climbing use in the UK.)
I heard Dark Arts Splicing in Vancouver BC will do totem cams!
What about replacing the dynamo strap in a dmm dragon cam with a wire with a dyneema core or a kevlar core
Interesting vidéo.
If you want to significantly increase resistance of a rope or a sling in the knot or stress point , you should shealt it .
Like it is made with kitesurf lines for exemple.
@hownot2 in lifting operation the chcker which is a bit near a girth hitch is rated as 80% and a basket as 200% or the base rating
Rope Access we consider it to be approx 70% for a choker. Petzl give an actual figure for their 22kn anneau nylon sling of 16kn, which is 72.7% so not far off.
Basket hitch, but instead of tape, actually stitch the strands together?
At 36 seconds he mentions soft goods can last for 10 years. Where can I find that in writing from the manufacturer?
I am curious as to how a double fisherman's loop out of accessory cord would perform as compared to webbing loops