What happens if you tie the Alpine Butterfly Knot wrong?

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  • Опубліковано 11 лис 2022
  • Alpine butterfly knot is a midline knot that is easy to untie after it has been loaded. The problem with knots that are easy to untie, is they untie easy. We discovered while pull testing this that it slips, though at fairly high forces. We also discovered that if you tie it slightly wrong, it still works... sort of. Learn about this knot in this video and what it can do, can't do and then go have fun and use it.
    See the data, references linked and read behind the scenes at www.hownot2.com/post/knots-bu...
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    What is an alpine butterfly
    00:32 Untie tests
    01:58 History of knot
    02:45 How to tie it
    04:42 How strong is it
    08:40 It can slip!!!
    11:39 Isolating a core shot with tests
    16:28 Follow through inside something that doesn't open
    17:22 Break testing it tied wrong
    21:53 Ring load testing
    23:28 Double butterfly
    25:36 Renaming the knot

КОМЕНТАРІ • 317

  • @HowNOT2
    @HowNOT2  Рік тому +14

    You can use this as a bend like @theropeaccesschannel shows, just make sure your tails are long enough. See his video at ua-cam.com/video/tRrIUybUyd0/v-deo.html

    • @pnxelectrical
      @pnxelectrical Рік тому

      Regular watcher of TRAC, think I came across your via there, more interested in Rope Access these days but do bits of climbing years ago, knotwork; one of those skills that never leaves you and surprises you how often you use it outside of your main reason for using it (climbing, rope access etc). I think I came across RopeLab from here though, can't recall exactly. Keep up the great work.

    • @WetDoggo
      @WetDoggo 11 місяців тому

      I stumbled upon a knot where you make a simple loop and make yet another loop 90° offset and 180° flipped inside that loop.
      This would result in 2 interconnected loops with 1 pass outside and 2 inside.
      Another variation is 2 double loops interconnected in the same way
      2 passes outside, 3 inside.
      I'm curious if this already exists, how strong it is and how it's called

    • @martynwatson4929
      @martynwatson4929 11 місяців тому

      I tied it as an end loop. ua-cam.com/video/ytjzBH6zqE4/v-deo.html

    • @TacitMoose
      @TacitMoose 10 місяців тому +1

      @HowNOT2 I’m sure someone has guessed already. But that’s Prusik Peak on The Temple in The Enchantments on the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Absolutely my favorite place in the world.

    • @user-dt9xb7sn2q
      @user-dt9xb7sn2q 10 місяців тому

      @HowNOT2 What if we take the end loop and wrap it around and through the "hole" loop one more time?
      It will be same knot but with *four* ropes hugged in the center loop instead of two. This theoretically might increase its strength because of a bigger bend radius as well as reduce the chance of it coming undone (not in Dyneema).

  • @gergopokol7678
    @gergopokol7678 Рік тому +115

    I was actually taught that the butterfly can be used to reduce shock loads on static ropes due to its tendency to slip on high loads. I would be so curious to see how it performs in that role!

    • @mikeg3660
      @mikeg3660 Рік тому +2

      Was thinking the same…. Shock absorber(s)

    • @livinginyourwalls4067
      @livinginyourwalls4067 Рік тому +21

      In alpine caving techniques, False Butterfly is recommended as a shock absorbing knot.

    • @oliverbrain7693
      @oliverbrain7693 Рік тому +3

      @@livinginyourwalls4067 I believe this is the 'incorrectly' tied knot shown in 3 at 17:48 which was thought to have a higher tendency to slip.

    • @ohokcool
      @ohokcool 10 місяців тому +2

      @@oliverbrain7693yes, with wings on opposing instead of same side

    • @davewilson4493
      @davewilson4493 10 місяців тому +3

      @@ohokcool Though no doubt any of the non-Alpine Butterflys could legitimately be called "false" by someone aiming for an Alpine, the False Butterfly mentioned in ACT is the one at ~19:30 with the twist-and-twist-back tying method giving non-interlocked sides, but both wings on the same side.

  • @kenneth_romero
    @kenneth_romero Рік тому +57

    I don't rock climb, but you have the most educational videos out there. I can learn so much, yet still not know so much. You do a great job explaining things and I hope you continue to put effort into your channel. I might actually start climbing because you guys make it look so fun and interesting.

    • @stevenr53
      @stevenr53 11 місяців тому +2

      I don't climb either, but the alpine butterfly is often used as the loop for a trucker's hitch.

    • @scienceisfun5989
      @scienceisfun5989 5 місяців тому

      Same! Love this channel though. My cousin trad climbs and I’m slowly learning gear from you so I can get out there and enjoy it with him eventually

  • @hamishlivo
    @hamishlivo Рік тому +41

    I think your production value keeps getting better and better. And you keep finding interesting things with your tests. Awesome stuff 😎

  • @mrnobody89
    @mrnobody89 Рік тому +7

    As one of those pedantic "knot guys," I appreciate this deep dive in the Phallic Knot. I look forward to more knot tests *cough* left handed sheet bend *cough*

  • @DantesChronicOdyssey
    @DantesChronicOdyssey Рік тому +4

    That was the best explanation of how to tie a double alpine butterfly that I have ever seen. Thank you.

    • @brettmcconochie
      @brettmcconochie Рік тому

      The easier way to tie the double alpine butterfly is the hybrid method. Just add an extra wrap around the hand. ua-cam.com/video/DYGdvL9-P30/v-deo.html

    • @Govanification
      @Govanification Місяць тому

      I don't understand the need for either of the 2 complicated methods they showed. You can do the standard method of wrapping 3 times around your hand, but do it with both strands, and you'll end up with the same double-loop butterfly knot.

  • @Profixt
    @Profixt Рік тому +4

    So... THAT"s how I have to tie the knot from our logo... Finally a good explanation! :D

  • @matthewlueder2656
    @matthewlueder2656 Рік тому +24

    Not sure if I should share this, but I was literally wiping my ass when you said "right after you're done wiping". For a second I was afraid I was in a Black Mirror episode.

  • @joshuabean9409
    @joshuabean9409 Рік тому +9

    My favorite knot. I've been wanting these tests. Thank you!

  • @bumppo45
    @bumppo45 Рік тому +5

    Great video!!! One comment, we use the Alpine Butterfly in fire service rescue all the time. We also tell our members, never wrap a rope around your hand. So we teach a different method of tying this knot. Keep up the great work!

    • @nigel7719
      @nigel7719 Рік тому

      Just out of curiosity what method do you teach? Can that method be found elsewhere on YOuTube?

    • @beyondthepale2023
      @beyondthepale2023 Рік тому

      The fastest way to tie it is wrapping around your hand though. Your fingers are just as likely to get munted if you have something tighten while you are doing the twist method especially when threading through. Maybe you have a different one but I know that most of our Fire and Emergency (FENZ) use the twist method but firemen usually know F.A about ropes as they are not climbers first and foremost.

    • @neilthomas2549
      @neilthomas2549 Місяць тому

      You can 'wrap it round your hand' without actually getting your hand in there

  • @123amsterdan456
    @123amsterdan456 Рік тому +8

    I'd imagine it was probably invented multiple times throughout the ten thousand years of rope history, but we didn't keep records of it that survived. 100+ year history is hard

  • @keithmanning6564
    @keithmanning6564 Рік тому +8

    This is a super well-made and detailed video. Great educational and entertaining content Ryan.

  • @macman231
    @macman231 Рік тому +2

    I find the twist method something I'll never forget, best method for me.

  • @stephenduvall
    @stephenduvall Рік тому +7

    It would be really cool if you got one of those thermal cameras for you phone to see the heat generated in the rope.

  • @GionetTodesco77
    @GionetTodesco77 Рік тому +14

    One of my favorite knots for sharing loads on anchor points due to the multi directional capabilities, temporarily isolating rope damage always adding an overhand as explained on min 13:21, attaching stuff etc… it is a fantastic knot, Also many different ways to tie it ( be aware of the fake one ),as any other knot and rope related stuff it will be safe if done it right. Thank you guys again for sharing such an educational content, what a great channel.

    • @moonshinershonor202
      @moonshinershonor202 11 місяців тому +1

      A granny knot never hurt nobody;
      👀 asking which is the fake one for a friend.

    • @jordanpeterson1893
      @jordanpeterson1893 7 місяців тому

      ​@@moonshinershonor202
      ua-cam.com/video/84LiM1DLN4A/v-deo.htmlsi=-h565ZN2TEvXJ2op

  • @theMAKAproject
    @theMAKAproject 9 місяців тому +4

    Love these knot videos. Knot history is one of my favorite things to nerd about.

  • @bobcanish
    @bobcanish Рік тому +1

    BEAUTIFUL video! Thank you Ryan.

  • @RogerBays
    @RogerBays Рік тому +1

    I like knots that are:
    a) easy to tie
    b) easy to inspect
    I never use the butterfly because it is neither. Here is a wee test to show if the butterfly is easy to inspect. Take a piece of paper and from memory draw a figure eight knot. Now from memory draw a butterfly knot. A rule of thumb could therefore be - if you can't easily draw it you can't easily inspect it.

  • @theatermusic87
    @theatermusic87 Рік тому +1

    this is super cool! and informative. I always assumed crossed vs not crossed we variants of the same knot (strength wise) based on real world use and that the only difference was in the way they were tied

  • @ryancheney7772
    @ryancheney7772 Рік тому +1

    This was a fantastic knot video Ryan, good job!

  • @ft.galpardo5081
    @ft.galpardo5081 Рік тому

    Great video! Thanks for the number of details, and the great explanations.

  • @kiefmanning7394
    @kiefmanning7394 Рік тому

    Love the butterfly. Super easy to untie. Near the end go directional eight. Done and done

  • @darrenstuart8828
    @darrenstuart8828 Рік тому +8

    This is a great video but, for the love of God, why not show a pull test on the double butterfly? That is one of the most used knots for retrievable anchors and load share systems in Rope access. These are considered two independent knots in one and used in a two rope system. It is widely used throughout the industry, yet I have never seen conclusive testing on it. Help us HowNOT2! You're our only hope!!

  • @thechillinman
    @thechillinman Рік тому +2

    Prusik Peak, WA. Amazing mountains. A must do for the 5.11 Apline climber!

    • @davidyount4205
      @davidyount4205 5 місяців тому +1

      5.7 climbers can also gain the summit by the Fred Beckey route

  • @concertamy23
    @concertamy23 Рік тому +1

    Prusik is looking great!

  • @Rotativo25
    @Rotativo25 Рік тому +1

    Ooo Prusik Peak! Love the Core!

  • @jacelandadventures1523
    @jacelandadventures1523 Рік тому

    Excellent video thanks for sharing 🙏🏻

  • @garywheaton7112
    @garywheaton7112 Рік тому +3

    Maybe it’s just cuz I’m from Washington but it’s instantly recognizable. There’s like Half Dome, the Hulk, and then Prusik in the Core. Stanley-Burgner 👌🏻

  • @Lovertical
    @Lovertical Рік тому

    Thanks Ryan! Great Job!

  • @THX11380
    @THX11380 11 місяців тому

    you guys got me all tied up in knots over here. most egg sell ant video. very professional feel. great job.

  • @nathanrice7352
    @nathanrice7352 7 місяців тому +2

    I've actually been using the "Wrong" alpine butterfly(like at 19:30) on purpose when I set up Lead Rope Solo anchors. Has a SS quick link in the loop, so it will never pull through. The "wrong version" is quicker to adjust for equalizing the anchor, and is even easier to untie if I take a whipper on it. If anything, the little slip is a little softer catch.

  • @BenjaminLovelady
    @BenjaminLovelady Рік тому +18

    I think the main benefit to some knots is being easy to check. As i see it, the only reason we use the figure 8 for tying in is that you can dress it nice and it's easy even for beginners to check (and easy to untie if i can remember which side for the loaded strand). Tons of other knots are super good enough.
    Personally, I found it really hard to tell the difference between the butterfly mistakes. But seeing how the "wrong" butterflies are still strong makes me less scared (though I'll definitely do an overhand backup on a core shot now)
    I need to look through and see if you've tested the wrong ways of tying a bowline as that's the one knot i've actually argued with someone about which was the "right" knot.

    • @DisWolfen
      @DisWolfen Рік тому +6

      Bowline (out-in) and cowboy bowline (in-out) are both valid and have similar strength (and are both acceptable in marine purposes. There are different ways to lock each. Cowboy bowline is better at resisting ring loading.

    • @2bfrank657
      @2bfrank657 2 місяці тому

      I've also heard the term "Scandinavian bowline", though I don't know which variant it was referring to.

  • @1-t254
    @1-t254 Рік тому +3

    I have had the butterfly loop spontaneously show up in different ways in my life. Several times when reeling in old line to my fishing rod the memory of the line formed a coil that twisted and trapped a bight. Another time my kid was playing with some cord and asked if a loop was a knot. Mind you that they aren't able to tie their shoes, so this was a luck discovery. With this in mind, I am sure this knot has been around and used long before it was recorded in print.

  • @christopheringlis6277
    @christopheringlis6277 Рік тому

    Nailed the [edu-tainment] format on this mate 😃👍 More please 🤙

  • @gontecher
    @gontecher Рік тому +1

    Prusik Peak in The Enchantments within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness (in Washington)

  • @ASR_385
    @ASR_385 Рік тому +1

    Nice backdrop, hope you enjoyed the Enchantments, great area.

  • @mikegrindstaff
    @mikegrindstaff Рік тому

    Super fascinating stuff man

  • @joshascani
    @joshascani Рік тому

    Great video! I'm going into work late now, since I couldn't stop partway through! 😄

  • @lancerudy9934
    @lancerudy9934 Рік тому

    Great video 😊

  • @onlymelodic109
    @onlymelodic109 Рік тому

    Thanks for the knot strength tests and bitcoin charts, enjoyed it, eager to browse through the rest of your videos.

  • @cookrich8
    @cookrich8 Рік тому +5

    Really grateful to see the results of the last variation you tied 'incorrectly' so to speak. In the UK, I know that as a cavers knot. I often use both to link anchors together, using the alpine if they are relatively close or the cavers if there is more distance between. I would tie the cavers as a slip knot locked off with a half hitch over the eye. 🤷‍♂️
    Love you vids, thanks for knowledge share. Happy New Year.

    • @davewilson4493
      @davewilson4493 10 місяців тому

      As a long-time UK/alpine caver (my 40th anniversary of playing around on ropes is coming up in December) , virtually every caver I know who rigs ties the true Alpine.
      I have only personally experienced one person choosing to tie the non-interlocked-wings #3 as a regular rigging knot, and he was a somewhat newbie rigger I once took on a practice rigging trip.
      Once, and never again.
      He rigged using #3 tied in two stages (a single overhand with a loop, and another single overhand to finish), which he claimed *was* an Alpine, was faster to tie, and was easier to fine-tune knot-anchor lengths with than other ways of tying it, and which he'd been taught by some supposed instructor(*) he seemed to have some kind of hero worship thing going on with.
      Politely demonstrating to him that he was wrong on all three of his claims didn't seem to affect his misplaced hero worship in the least.
      To be fair, his knot might have not been meaningfully worse in terms of absolute strength, but it just *looked* really wrong under the not uncommon meaningful 3-way loading, and hanging your entire weight off knots that look wrong isn't many people's idea of fun.
      (*Note: this isn't instructor-bashing - some of my friends are great caving instructors, but whoever *that* guy was, I have to wonder what his history was.)

    • @cookrich8
      @cookrich8 10 місяців тому +1

      ​@@davewilson4493 That's an interesting statement Dave, that you haven't seen it in all those years. I was shown it by several CIC's and a British Mountain Guide when I was in the industry full time.
      Shame you only saw fit to take the person once for rigging practice, rather than choosing to put in some development time. Though I understand there could be other factors involved, some people you just have feelings about and those aren't the ones you want to rely on when people lives are at stake.
      As for your opinion of his three claims, you're right it is not an Alpine Butterfly. However, I would argue that it is super adjustable especially if the anchor is a metre plus away from the equalisation point. That said, rigging a traverse line why wouldn't you use and Alpine.
      I was just pleased to know that the 'Cavers Knot' as I know it was Super Good Enough 😊

  • @benjaminnevins5211
    @benjaminnevins5211 Рік тому

    Going to absolutely start using this on my hammock.

  • @tubatrav
    @tubatrav Рік тому +1

    Prusik Peak! I love living so close to that range.

  • @DylanKerr92
    @DylanKerr92 Рік тому +11

    Fun fact - the knot you get when the butterfly inverts during ring-loading is still a butterfly, the loop strands and the tail strands just swap places!

    • @TheAwkwardGoose
      @TheAwkwardGoose Рік тому

      I know this knot as a mobius butterfly. In this form it becomes more suited to an endline knot than midline, or to create two independently loadable strands. And unlike many other loop knots it can take pretty much any loading profile if you dress it well (in-line, perpendicular, circumferential).

  • @kid5Media
    @kid5Media Рік тому +1

    Prusik Peak! Great climbs.

  • @beyondthepale2023
    @beyondthepale2023 Рік тому +2

    Personally the way I find is easiest for students to learn is wrap one into crook of thumb, wrap two around base of fingers,third wrap between the two.pull the outside one out as long as required,take the bight and feed it under all the strands from wrist out towards the fingers.

    • @davewilson4493
      @davewilson4493 10 місяців тому

      I find it hard to describe in words how I tie knots.
      For rigging in caves, for most knots, I like to measure the loop length I want, add on appropriate extra for the knot, and then use my left hand to build the knot up from the known desired base point. It keeps things where I want them to be, and works well from muscle memory even when I'm not really in a position to look at what I'm doing
      For the Alpine, though I know people who do the hand wrap. I don't like it as it's hard to get the very short loops I often want, and not intuitive to me for meaningfully long loops (and sometimes I need *really* long loops).
      I go for the two-twist method which works for tiny and super-long loops exactly the same way.
      I hold twist the base of the knot where I want it and hold it between the base of my thumb and the bottom of my little finger with my thumb over it to hold the first twist firmly, twist again and hold that twist with my index finger, and then pull the loop behind and under my hand and push it through where my thumb is, sliding out my thumb at the same time but keeping hold of the base of the knot while I tighten so the base stays where I want it to be.
      If the desired loop is somewhat long, I may need to jiggle my left index finger, and/or spread my right hand holding the loop top to widen the top of the loop and move the second crossover point further down the knot to where the crossover is easier for my index finger to catch it.

  • @rymegkasri
    @rymegkasri 10 місяців тому +1

    1452 looks like a "zeppelin bend" to me. a really great easy to tie knot to have in your pocket!

  • @Captaraknospider
    @Captaraknospider 9 місяців тому

    Great video

  • @wb2242
    @wb2242 Рік тому +7

    In climbing one of the uses for the alpine is to use it as a bend, to actually to separate a damaged section of rope, especially for rappelling, at which point you'd have to pass the knot. So it slipping is important- granted at +10kn, not a force likely to generate while rappelling

  • @81773rroo7
    @81773rroo7 Рік тому

    Gnome Tarn. I have that same shot from climbing Prusik Peak, beautiful.

  • @j0nthegreat
    @j0nthegreat Рік тому

    criss cross is how i learned it. glad to know it doesn't matter which way you go after that. love this knot.

    • @j0nthegreat
      @j0nthegreat Рік тому

      but only as a utility low weight haul knot. or possibly a low budget etrier thing

  • @woodennecktie
    @woodennecktie Рік тому

    always very educating and brought in a very accessible way , any chance you might want to show how knots infuence the strenght of "standard rigging slings "

  • @sensorpixel
    @sensorpixel Рік тому +1

    Thanks for this extremely nice video! Do you have any idea what made the knot slip in some of the tests and not in others? Is there anything one can do to prevent slipping, other than putting something in the bight?

  • @gotta-jibboo9139
    @gotta-jibboo9139 Рік тому

    Prusik peak! What an awesome place

  • @bigboss-tl2xr
    @bigboss-tl2xr 10 місяців тому

    Fantastic! I wish I could subscribe multiple times 😁
    Nice weather at the Matterhorn 😊

  • @kellywagner3837
    @kellywagner3837 11 місяців тому +2

    Great analysis of this iconic knot.
    I don't see that anyone answered you opening question ..... what's on the green screen behind you? You are in the Enchantments Permit area, likely at Gnome Tarn. Over your left shoulder is Prusik Peak, to the right, the knob is the High Priest, the jagged ridge is The Temple group. We packed into the plateau twice in the early 70',s, long before permits were required. Wish that I still had the knees to get up there again!

  • @libertarian1637
    @libertarian1637 Рік тому

    I was taught the twist method and have never tied this by wrapping around my hand; though I’ve always been decent with knots and haven’t really had difficulty learning new knots.

  • @chrismartinovic496
    @chrismartinovic496 Рік тому

    get this dude to a million pls

  • @bobceffo
    @bobceffo 11 місяців тому

    I see we agree on the name.
    now I know you are GOOD!

  • @oplac1
    @oplac1 5 місяців тому

    I did the knot exactly as you describe at 3:42 in the video and compared it with the right/wrong version at 19:48 and it doesn't look like any of them! On checking, the image you have at 19:48 is a mirror image of reality - only when the image is mirrored back again does the knot look like the one with the tick. I'm surprised nobody has noticed this.

  • @mr.jsendy2826
    @mr.jsendy2826 3 місяці тому +1

    Immediately after hitting around the 4 minute mark, I went to the bathroom, took a massive dump and practiced the tying technique

  • @ForestRainMedia
    @ForestRainMedia 2 місяці тому

    "Make sure you take at least 10 minutes and practice this, ideally while you're either watching this, or right afterwards when you're done wiping."
    This killed me. 🤣

  • @foihdzas
    @foihdzas Рік тому +3

    Amazeballs video.
    I use the butterfly all the time. Almost as much as the 8 and clove. Great to see its strengths and weaknesses. Also learned a new way to tie it.
    Ps. Your puffie is loud. 😅

  • @rogerbarnett8412
    @rogerbarnett8412 9 місяців тому +1

    Mighty nice spot!! I climbed the Burgner/Stanley on Prusik Pk. circa 1979. Think it's been upgraded to 5.10. And many other area routes.

  • @SirDadbod
    @SirDadbod Рік тому

    I have no idea why I'm fascinated with just a handfull of knots.. I feel like I have the secret to the universe when I make a bowline or hitch..

  • @milespitman7036
    @milespitman7036 Рік тому

    huh interesting! I just used a phallic knot as my stopper with an overhand for a tagline rappel on a reepschnur hitch. I will now only be tying the double phallic.

  • @lleberghappy
    @lleberghappy Рік тому +13

    Nice! And super nice video.
    Another use for the alpine butterfly:
    Isolated retrievable system.
    Isolate 1 strand for rapell for a retrievable system, on a grigri, be pilot or whatever.
    At the anchor with the rope through, tie a alpine butterfly on one side of the anchor, either clip a carabiner to that AND the other side of the anchor. (,Can also be done without the carabiner, thread the other side rope through)
    Now you can rapell of one strand safley, and pull the other from below to retrieve the system. Used in arborism, can even be set up from below, throwing the rope over a branch with a weight.
    But don't take my word for it.
    Strider tree gear
    ua-cam.com/video/8I4LJL2dKcg/v-deo.html
    That also shows.the alpine butterfly is a trusted stoppern knot... This could be tested! :D

  • @cramhead
    @cramhead 10 місяців тому

    Great video. Looks like watersprite lake in the background

  • @InterwovenElements
    @InterwovenElements 9 місяців тому

    Yee ol' prusik peak. Enchantments are gorgeous.

  • @TheMrfuzzy19968
    @TheMrfuzzy19968 10 місяців тому

    A young Climber named McPot
    tied an unsafe Butterfly Knot
    he screamed as he fell
    MY GOD I'LL BE HARDLY A SPOT

  • @spud_67
    @spud_67 Рік тому

    best knot

  • @adamkelly6264
    @adamkelly6264 Рік тому +1

    just here to say what I know I'll have to say to my rescue students: 9kN is SUPER good enough!

  • @TacitMoose
    @TacitMoose 10 місяців тому

    @HowNOT2 I’m sure someone has guessed already. But that’s Prusik Peak on The Temple in The Enchantments on the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Absolutely my favorite place in the world.

  • @alittlefurther3997
    @alittlefurther3997 Рік тому +1

    Gnome Tarn with Prusik peak behind. In the core of the Enchantments!

  • @user-fk1po6jj7f
    @user-fk1po6jj7f 10 місяців тому

    My friend who did alpine rescue in south africa told me that they use alpine butterflies to isolate damaged sections of rope. He even suggested using it to combine two ropes together for a double rope rappel.

  • @vancamjr
    @vancamjr Рік тому +1

    Thermal imaging would be interesting in real time.

  • @martynwatson4929
    @martynwatson4929 Рік тому +1

    This knot makes a great bend or tied differently, an end loop.

  • @DBegemod
    @DBegemod Рік тому

    thx

  • @manjifera
    @manjifera Рік тому +1

    Tell use with chart which knots are good as strength wise

  • @fire_n_ice1984
    @fire_n_ice1984 Рік тому

    Prusik peak alpine lakes area Washington. My fave.

  • @tomjones4646
    @tomjones4646 Рік тому +1

    The Knot shown at 20 mins I have used caving and refer to it as the cavers butterfly in the UK, super easy to adjust and untie but Has to be pulled from 3 different directions to keep its integrity. For example, a hanging traverse in a cave where it is the middle bolt.

  • @charanvantijn541
    @charanvantijn541 Рік тому +3

    Good info. One thing you haven't tested... The butterfly knot is not mirrored in itself. So pulling the loop to the left is different from pulling the loop to the right. The other standing part of the rope is tensioned. Care to try that sometime?

  • @Alvinyokatori
    @Alvinyokatori Рік тому +2

    I always planned I would use a prusic to pass a knot (keep one on my belt always) but I like this technique

    • @Gortmend
      @Gortmend Рік тому

      I assume you'd still use a prussic, but you'd clip into that loop as a backup while you unclipped/moved the belay device...trusting your life to a single prussic is scary.

    • @Alvinyokatori
      @Alvinyokatori Рік тому

      @@Gortmendyeah if the prusic failed I would just fall a few inches and have to catch myself with my atc it wouldn’t be ideal

  • @blakechauvin8629
    @blakechauvin8629 10 місяців тому

    Prusik Peak, was there last week. Specifically at the gnome tarn by Prusik.

  • @MattStrauser
    @MattStrauser Рік тому

    Nice work. At about 20 min in would you call that an overhand loop with an half-hitch backup?

  • @Oliverjckson
    @Oliverjckson Рік тому

    Prusik peak lookin nice

  • @skymanchronicles8936
    @skymanchronicles8936 Рік тому

    You should see how the window cleaners use this important knot. You can tie two separate lines at different anchor points and center perfectly by attaching 2 alpine knots together with a carabiner. So handy, easy to untie for sure.

  • @theonescratchwonder6484
    @theonescratchwonder6484 Рік тому

    You got me with the like button joke, I'm in!

  • @jonathangarrison1429
    @jonathangarrison1429 Рік тому

    Awesome video. Love the idea ABK suggests this knot is only 100 plus years old. Backdrop: Sundial Peak (Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah)?

  • @codiserville593
    @codiserville593 5 місяців тому

    Now this is science!

  • @sebrura
    @sebrura 7 місяців тому

    I LOL’d at 11:39

  • @mountainmandoug
    @mountainmandoug Рік тому +1

    As for where your background picture was taken, that's Prussik Peak back there, and I am guessing that is Gnome Tarn in the foreground?

  • @bsheelflip
    @bsheelflip Рік тому +1

    Me and the homies ran some laps up a route well under our collective ability, and we had three climbers in the party climb on one rope, one on each end and one in the middle clipped to a butterfly. Because of pitch length, two at a time would simulclimb for a short time. Since that day, I have always wondered what would happen if all three “directions” of the knot would be loaded if on top belay, and both climbers fell.

  • @chosslife
    @chosslife Рік тому +1

    How does it compare to a bowline on a bite? Feel like they would perform pretty similarly in most of the tests? Maybe

  • @BurchellAtTheWharf
    @BurchellAtTheWharf 11 місяців тому +1

    26:12 that veiw

  • @TorBoy9
    @TorBoy9 Рік тому

    I need to review all the permutations of this butterfly knot. Thanks

  • @colefulton6209
    @colefulton6209 Рік тому

    Prussic peak. Good fun 5.10 I did up that a year back

  • @alexandern8hgeg5e9
    @alexandern8hgeg5e9 3 місяці тому

    16:57 : The first one came out wrong, too. The wings are not on the same side. The left wing looks as if it were facing to the lake (with it's rope) but if you were to pull the legs the left wing would turn away from the lake.
    This is how I just managed to tie the knot:
    (with legs I mean the rope coming out of the wings)
    Go in and have it as at 16:41 and then tighten the overhand knot a bit and then you arrange the leg that is already part of a finished overhand knot to the side like it would be if the alpine butterfly knot were already done. Then you see one rope going over the finished leg and around the loop (loop that goes through the carabiner). This rope already goes around and becomes the leg. Then you can create the other side by also going around the loop but in the opposite direction. After going around, tunnel the finished leg (in the center) and also dive into the overhand loop that you just created.
    The last step is easier if the unfinished knot is pre-dressed and the leg is arranged as if the knot were completely done.

  • @ivarhusa454
    @ivarhusa454 9 місяців тому

    Washington State's Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, with Prussik Peak in the background. I've scrambled (no real climber, I) to that highest 'hump' before the rock gets serious. That was over 50 years ago, just before it was made a 'wilderness area' for its protection.

  • @kylerowe4
    @kylerowe4 Рік тому +1

    you're at Gnome Tarn right next to Prusik Peak