I run a H buffer and standard spring. My rifle would eject brass forward of me. I always thought it was overgassed but since it works I didn't mess with it. I found something rather interesting though I notice ejector on my bolt was rather easy to press in so I decided to change it all out. New ejector, new ejector spring, and pin. It's now ejecting about 3, 3:30 slightly behind me.
Excellent job pulling together the short list of options available to handle gas problems. Your style and experience was easy to follow on a topic that gets into the basic engineering of gun action. As I have slowly learned, there is no single, simple “fix” to these problems. But as you said, depending on our setup, we have to “tune” our rig, with no simple calculator telling you what is best. But that’s what I have come to enjoy - the science and art of shooting. When you get it to run well, it is truly enjoyable. Thanks for your contribution to helping others learn.
I ran BAD levers for years and never had any issues with the bolt locking back. I did notice a friend's lower that had the issue the bolt catch could wobble on the pin but mine could not wobble on the pin. I suspect the wobble plays with the timing.
I've done all you suggested .for 3 different rifles 1/adj gas block suppressor,2/ heavy buffer spring, and 3/heavy buffer. I also backed off 1 grain of powder. We shall see 😕
Do you have the odinworks "pistol weight" buffer? The pistol buffer has a much heavier weight range than the normal rifle one. Which can are you using?
if you get the odinworks 9mm adjustable buffer you can go past an h4 equivalent weight. Because the 9mm AR's are straight blowback, they use a heavier buffer than 5.56 & 7.62x39
Any reason you did not mentioned a tuned gas tube? Yo can ask Black River Tactical to sell you a gas tube based on a number of factors (barrel length, gas tune length, bugger weight, spring used, shooting suppressed, etc.). The gas tube diameter is then selected. I went this route is it was very effective.
Old video and i dont know if those tubes were available when i made it. I had considered just crimping a tube a little bit, but never did because it's a one way ticket and would make it weaker.
@@SpecOpsGear Funny you should mention crimping the gas tube. I was in the Army in the 1980's and that's exactly what armorers did back then. I'm sure some Viet Nam vet would have some stories about that as well.
I love that attachment that you're using for your Streamlight HL can you please tell me what kind of adapter and where did you purchase it from thanks in advance😊
I think it's just an mlok rail section. But lately i've been running 12oclock for pistol lights on rifles. Then i move the front sight back a little bit.
Hey so I seen your video on the Subaru velocity stacks. I have a alcohol motor and I been wanting to run that set up but can’t find the throttle bodies for sale anywhere. Do you know where you got them?
there's two ways to get them, you can either make your own with hollowed out wrx Tumble Generator Valves (i have a set somewhere), or you can get an OBX wrx sti set of velocity stacks and lightly mod them to fit. i found the obx on ebay and made them fit with a bit of port matching and i cut off the forced induction manifold and used silicone connectors to connect the stacks. let me know if that helps. I still do car stuff, but mainly going toward gun content these days.
@@SpecOpsGear I got lucky, I was told by an old timer to try an H2 buffer because I have a heavy barrel and everything was cycling but no bolt hold over…hopefully that’s a minor fix
@@MrRoro256 you can take apart the h2 and swap one heavy weight for one lighter weight and it should be perfect. Tungsten are the heavy ones. Steel are the lighter ones, there's also some aftermarket aluminum weights out there as well. But honestly, switching out one of your weights will make it an h1 which will probably work well and get your bolt to lock back on empty.
@@MrRoro256 could just be the catch, the weight kits are reasonably priced also. You just pop the pin out in the buffer weight and pull out the plug and restock the weights as desired.
I have a 300 blackout 16” which I believe to be over gassed and keeps malfunctioning consistently. I went to the gun shop and they recommended using spike tactical T2 if it’s over gassed. do you think that’ll be enough?
@@SpecOpsGear I believe it said t2 is 4oz I’m running a regular carbine buffer weight now. I guess if it starts working more but still hangs up I know I need to go higher
H3 is usually my top choice if i feel like a gun is overgassed. You can buy just the weights and restack them in your existing buffer to try a few different weights.
(If anyone can help) I have a brand new AR15 which I’ve put around 200 rounds in it so far, had a non adjustable carbine gas block so I switched to an adjustable one but it’s still overgassed… would getting a different buffer reduce it being overgassed or?
I have a 11.5 midlength barrel with a superlative arms adjustable gas block. I'm running a giessele super 42 spring and h1 buffer. What buffer weight do you think should be ran with an adjustable gb? It's a reliable rifle.
Is "E30" a BMW reference? I tried an s50 swapped e30 back in the day... super fun car! Anyway, regarding the AR setup, if it runs well with an h1+ GB maybe leave it? For me, most problems with adjustable gas blocks occur when I change the settings, so if i'm running an adjustable GB i tend to set and forget for best results. As for recoil, I tend to like heavier buffers like h2 to h3. If you have basic hand tools like a small punch and a hammer you can buy the pur tungsten weight kit for about $21 on Amazon and try it out. But again, if it works as is, consider leaving it as-is and enjoy it without changing readjusting the GB.
@@SpecOpsGear Yes e30 is a BMW reference. I have owned two. And 24v swap cars are awesome, especially the s5x. If I do a swap it'll be an m52/4 and probably turbo it as well. I'm rocking an eta bottom and a 885 325i head. With a few other parts it's solid good fun up till the end of third. Eventually going to boost it. I may play with the buffer weight. And see how the recoil impulse changes. But at the moment I have it running an locking back on basic tula 223 steel cased. So on brass it's good to go. I'm just waiting till my yhm Resonator k gets out of jail.
@@voltairee3012 I think you'll love a suppressed AR w/ short barrel, totally worth it IMO. I've had a silencerco omega (30 cal) can for quite awhile and i love how quiet it is, but i was not prepared for how much back pressure it would add to my system so now I normally run it on 5.56mm stuff. I'm considering an oss helix flow-through style can for my next stamp item.
@@SpecOpsGear yeah I have my lower for my 300blk almost finished. But since the ammo for it is dried up. I'm not in a hurry to finish the upper. But by the time my suppressor can come home itll be done. And in the meantime my 11.5 will be a fantastic host. From what faxon says it is more geared towards suppressing with the mid gas length.
Heavier buffer doesn't reduce gas, so yeah if thats a chief concern then AGB may be the way to go. The main problem with AGB is that they seize up from heat cycles and carbon.
Hey, I just Built-in AR and it appears to be over gas, It is ripping the rim off the cartridge, Its a PSA classic upper with a A2 Front sight, Do you think the H3 buffer Would be enough?
What barrel length? What gas system length? And what buffer do you have now? In 5.56/.223 guns, usually for 16" and longer barrels, h3 is heavy enough. For pistol length barrels, SBRs or running a suppressor, you may need to go heavier still.
@@SpecOpsGear what are the tools that I need to fully assemble an upper receiver? I've built quite a few lowers with little to no issue but have yet to complete an upper from all parts
@@TheTonyTitan aside from the normal tools you'd use on a lower, for the upper you need: 1: A workbench with a strongly mounted vise 2: a special vise block that safely clamps the blank upper in the vise 3: an AR15 armorer's wrench/socket that has the right pattern for your barrel nut 4: a torque wrench to tighten the barrel nut 5: Allen wrenches (if your rail uses them), locktite, various punches and a small hammer. The big part is you need a way to hold the blank upper very tightly so you can torque down the barrel nut. www.midwayusa.com/product/1007359056
Yes. Using a heavier buffer weight will balance out an overgassed gun. If you're handy with tools, the cheapest fix is to get the pur tungsten buffer weight kit for about $22-. Or, just get a complete h3 buffer and drop it in. For severely overgassed, like an sbr with a silencer, you can get the Odin works 9mm adjustable buffer weight and get to an h4 equivalent weight.
Spec Ops Gear thanks, I’m getting a 10.5 upper in a few days, and based on reviews it’s gonna be over gassed, I’ll try the weights if it is, thanks again
those ones aren't official milspec, but you can get to h4-h5 weights using the pistol cal buffers. also, the odinworks adjustable PCC buffer weight can get to h4,h5 and i'm pretty sure i mentioned that.
So my 10.3 300blk out pistol has excessive recoil. I had been rockin an Armaspec SRS H2 buffer + spring. Do you think an H3 would possibly eliminate the excessive recoil? It’s quite difficult to reacquire a target when I get jostled that hard.
Going up to an h3 buffer will help. Adjustable gas block works better for reducing recoil.... But, adjustable gas blocks come with reliability concerns.
@@cZor if you decide to go with an adjustable gas block, it's best to set them and then never change them once set because they can get seized with carbon and then break when you try and change them later. Yes, heavier buffer is the most reliable solution.
@@SpecOpsGear So I just asked Daniel Defense what my gas port size is since I couldn’t find the info anywhere. It’s .093 which I assume is extremely gassy? So knowing that it cycles suppressed and unsuprrssed with supers and subs, can I reasonably assume H3 will work too since I’m already using an H2?
@@cZor Trust, but verify. If you're handy, you can buy just the weights and turn your h2 into an h3 with these weights (plus have some weights left over for other build). pur-tungsten.com/product/tungsten-recoil-buffer-weights/
@@SpecOpsGear First off, thank you, your video is very well organized and informative. I'm having overgassing issues when supressed also.. Are you using a stock carbine spring with that 5.4 oz buffer?
@@jalowery1246 stock spring, yes. I tried the heavier sprinco spring but it led to odd behavior in the rifle so the carbine spring was best with a heavier buffer weight. The rifle stock with its heavier buffer also works well.
@@SpecOpsGear thx man. I'm currently using an armaspec SMB with and I just upgraded to their equivalent H3 on a 10.3 w/a bleed off adj gas block. Big 30 cal supressor. I'm lookin to optimize performance supressed(cause why not) then add a lil for reliability and leave it. I'm able to fine tune the rifle w/o the supressor just fine, but when I put the can on its hammer time, all the time. Even wide open, using the bleed off option, I can't get the rifle to fail lock back appreciated. I can do it with the restrictive mode but thats the devil, or so they say. Plus i payed for the fancy shit, I'm using the fancy shit. Anyways based on the very noticeable increased recoil when cycling I think its still overgassed. I've been told to disregard the recoil and pay strict attention to the angle of brass deflection. I don't know man Unless I hear something logical that explains otherwise, I would assume that if I'm unable to bleed off enough gas to reach that balance point of near malfunction, than I should be able to reach it by introducing enough inertia(it is inertia right), through a buffer system including some combination of spring tension and weight. So yeah. Kinda stuck in the minutia. Might be asking too much. We'll see. After watching you I'm planning to go with that heavy adj buffer you suggested, order a few tungsten weights(cause with an H3 I'm already equal to your buffer weight), and start experimenting. Thanks for the advice, apologies for the essay, any and all advice/suggestions are welcome and apreciated.
@@jalowery1246 the odin "9mm pistol weight" buffer will adjust from h3 weight and up, way up and it fits standard 5.56mm ar15s. I find that increasing the buffer weight is the smooths out recoil more than increasing the buffer spring tension. In contrast, upping the buffer spring led to increased felt recoil. adjustable gas blocks "should" be the right answer for perfect recoil impulse but for me they fail unless i set them and then never change the setting. Tuning for suppressors is more of a hassle than i anticipated. let me know how it goes.
I run a H buffer and standard spring. My rifle would eject brass forward of me. I always thought it was overgassed but since it works I didn't mess with it. I found something rather interesting though I notice ejector on my bolt was rather easy to press in so I decided to change it all out. New ejector, new ejector spring, and pin. It's now ejecting about 3, 3:30 slightly behind me.
That's a good point. A weak ejector spring could cause symptoms that look like being overgassed. Glad you figured it out and got it fixed.
Excellent job pulling together the short list of options available to handle gas problems. Your style and experience was easy to follow on a topic that gets into the basic engineering of gun action. As I have slowly learned, there is no single, simple “fix” to these problems. But as you said, depending on our setup, we have to “tune” our rig, with no simple calculator telling you what is best. But that’s what I have come to enjoy - the science and art of shooting. When you get it to run well, it is truly enjoyable. Thanks for your contribution to helping others learn.
Thank you. The finer details of a properly tuned rifle are well worth it.
Took the B.A.D lever off and it holds open just fine…thanks for your support to the newbie
Welcome to freedom.
I ran BAD levers for years and never had any issues with the bolt locking back. I did notice a friend's lower that had the issue the bolt catch could wobble on the pin but mine could not wobble on the pin. I suspect the wobble plays with the timing.
I've done all you suggested .for 3 different rifles 1/adj gas block suppressor,2/ heavy buffer spring, and 3/heavy buffer. I also backed off 1 grain of powder.
We shall see 😕
Do you have the odinworks "pistol weight" buffer? The pistol buffer has a much heavier weight range than the normal rifle one. Which can are you using?
My 7.62x39 was having constant failures to extract from being WAY overgassed even with an H2 so I guess I'll be buying an adjustable gas block!
if you get the odinworks 9mm adjustable buffer you can go past an h4 equivalent weight. Because the 9mm AR's are straight blowback, they use a heavier buffer than 5.56 & 7.62x39
Thanks bro.
I've seen other youtubers say upgrading the spring is more effective than a heavier buffer.
The heavier spring resulted in increased felt recoil, so that's why I don't recommend it. Your mileage may vary.
Any reason you did not mentioned a tuned gas tube? Yo can ask Black River Tactical to sell you a gas tube based on a number of factors (barrel length, gas tune length, bugger weight, spring used, shooting suppressed, etc.). The gas tube diameter is then selected. I went this route is it was very effective.
Old video and i dont know if those tubes were available when i made it. I had considered just crimping a tube a little bit, but never did because it's a one way ticket and would make it weaker.
@@SpecOpsGear Funny you should mention crimping the gas tube. I was in the Army in the 1980's and that's exactly what armorers did back then. I'm sure some Viet Nam vet would have some stories about that as well.
I love that attachment that you're using for your Streamlight HL can you please tell me what kind of adapter and where did you purchase it from thanks in advance😊
I think it's just an mlok rail section. But lately i've been running 12oclock for pistol lights on rifles. Then i move the front sight back a little bit.
Hey so I seen your video on the Subaru velocity stacks. I have a alcohol motor and I been wanting to run that set up but can’t find the throttle bodies for sale anywhere. Do you know where you got them?
there's two ways to get them, you can either make your own with hollowed out wrx Tumble Generator Valves (i have a set somewhere), or you can get an OBX wrx sti set of velocity stacks and lightly mod them to fit. i found the obx on ebay and made them fit with a bit of port matching and i cut off the forced induction manifold and used silicone connectors to connect the stacks.
let me know if that helps.
I still do car stuff, but mainly going toward gun content these days.
Have an 8” 300 blk…it’ll cycle supersonic fine just won’t cycle subsonic currently working with 3oz buffer
Of course, it goes without saying that subs work best with a can.
@@SpecOpsGear I got lucky, I was told by an old timer to try an H2 buffer because I have a heavy barrel and everything was cycling but no bolt hold over…hopefully that’s a minor fix
@@MrRoro256 you can take apart the h2 and swap one heavy weight for one lighter weight and it should be perfect. Tungsten are the heavy ones. Steel are the lighter ones, there's also some aftermarket aluminum weights out there as well. But honestly, switching out one of your weights will make it an h1 which will probably work well and get your bolt to lock back on empty.
@@SpecOpsGear found out my bolt catch needs to be replaced, also there’s a kit out there that has 3 of every weight tungsten, steel and aluminum
@@MrRoro256 could just be the catch, the weight kits are reasonably priced also. You just pop the pin out in the buffer weight and pull out the plug and restock the weights as desired.
I have a 300 blackout 16” which I believe to be over gassed and keeps malfunctioning consistently. I went to the gun shop and they recommended using spike tactical T2 if it’s over gassed. do you think that’ll be enough?
What weight is it currently?
@@SpecOpsGear I believe it said t2 is 4oz I’m running a regular carbine buffer weight now. I guess if it starts working more but still hangs up I know I need to go higher
I have a bcm at that I believe is over gassed particularly with m855, what buffer weight do you recommend?
H3 is usually my top choice if i feel like a gun is overgassed. You can buy just the weights and restack them in your existing buffer to try a few different weights.
(If anyone can help) I have a brand new AR15 which I’ve put around 200 rounds in it so far, had a non adjustable carbine gas block so I switched to an adjustable one but it’s still overgassed… would getting a different buffer reduce it being overgassed or?
Try an h3 carbine buffer. It's the easiest way to slow the bolt down a bit.
@@SpecOpsGear I appreciate it
Thank bro!
Easy fix
I have a 11.5 midlength barrel with a superlative arms adjustable gas block. I'm running a giessele super 42 spring and h1 buffer. What buffer weight do you think should be ran with an adjustable gb? It's a reliable rifle.
Is "E30" a BMW reference? I tried an s50 swapped e30 back in the day... super fun car! Anyway, regarding the AR setup, if it runs well with an h1+ GB maybe leave it? For me, most problems with adjustable gas blocks occur when I change the settings, so if i'm running an adjustable GB i tend to set and forget for best results. As for recoil, I tend to like heavier buffers like h2 to h3. If you have basic hand tools like a small punch and a hammer you can buy the pur tungsten weight kit for about $21 on Amazon and try it out. But again, if it works as is, consider leaving it as-is and enjoy it without changing readjusting the GB.
@@SpecOpsGear Yes e30 is a BMW reference. I have owned two. And 24v swap cars are awesome, especially the s5x. If I do a swap it'll be an m52/4 and probably turbo it as well. I'm rocking an eta bottom and a 885 325i head. With a few other parts it's solid good fun up till the end of third. Eventually going to boost it.
I may play with the buffer weight. And see how the recoil impulse changes. But at the moment I have it running an locking back on basic tula 223 steel cased. So on brass it's good to go. I'm just waiting till my yhm Resonator k gets out of jail.
@@voltairee3012 I think you'll love a suppressed AR w/ short barrel, totally worth it IMO. I've had a silencerco omega (30 cal) can for quite awhile and i love how quiet it is, but i was not prepared for how much back pressure it would add to my system so now I normally run it on 5.56mm stuff. I'm considering an oss helix flow-through style can for my next stamp item.
@@SpecOpsGear yeah I have my lower for my 300blk almost finished. But since the ammo for it is dried up. I'm not in a hurry to finish the upper. But by the time my suppressor can come home itll be done. And in the meantime my 11.5 will be a fantastic host. From what faxon says it is more geared towards suppressing with the mid gas length.
Does heavier buffer mitigate gas to face as well? Or is AGB only solution for that?
Heavier buffer doesn't reduce gas, so yeah if thats a chief concern then AGB may be the way to go.
The main problem with AGB is that they seize up from heat cycles and carbon.
It does mitigate gas more gas gets forced out the barrel with the increased dwell time before the bolt unlocks.
Hey, I just Built-in AR and it appears to be over gas, It is ripping the rim off the cartridge, Its a PSA classic upper with a A2 Front sight, Do you think the H3 buffer Would be enough?
What barrel length? What gas system length? And what buffer do you have now? In 5.56/.223 guns, usually for 16" and longer barrels, h3 is heavy enough. For pistol length barrels, SBRs or running a suppressor, you may need to go heavier still.
@@SpecOpsGear 16", carbine , 5.56, mil-Spec buffer assembly
@@alexanderlanier6159 unless the gas port hole on the barrel is drilled way too big, an h3 should work.
Thanks
Hey no problem, let me know if you have any questions about ar setup.
@@SpecOpsGear what are the tools that I need to fully assemble an upper receiver? I've built quite a few lowers with little to no issue but have yet to complete an upper from all parts
@@TheTonyTitan aside from the normal tools you'd use on a lower, for the upper you need:
1: A workbench with a strongly mounted vise
2: a special vise block that safely clamps the blank upper in the vise
3: an AR15 armorer's wrench/socket that has the right pattern for your barrel nut
4: a torque wrench to tighten the barrel nut
5: Allen wrenches (if your rail uses them), locktite, various punches and a small hammer.
The big part is you need a way to hold the blank upper very tightly so you can torque down the barrel nut. www.midwayusa.com/product/1007359056
@@SpecOpsGear THANKS SO MUCH BRO!! I'm planning my orders for the tools as we speak
@@TheTonyTitan Try to get your barrel with a matched bolt, that way you don't have to worry about headspacing.
So if my gun is over gassed I can change the buffer weight and that should fix it ?
Yes. Using a heavier buffer weight will balance out an overgassed gun. If you're handy with tools, the cheapest fix is to get the pur tungsten buffer weight kit for about $22-. Or, just get a complete h3 buffer and drop it in. For severely overgassed, like an sbr with a silencer, you can get the Odin works 9mm adjustable buffer weight and get to an h4 equivalent weight.
Spec Ops Gear thanks, I’m getting a 10.5 upper in a few days, and based on reviews it’s gonna be over gassed, I’ll try the weights if it is, thanks again
You forgot to mention H4 and H5 carbine buffers
those ones aren't official milspec, but you can get to h4-h5 weights using the pistol cal buffers. also, the odinworks adjustable PCC buffer weight can get to h4,h5 and i'm pretty sure i mentioned that.
So my 10.3 300blk out pistol has excessive recoil. I had been rockin an Armaspec SRS H2 buffer + spring. Do you think an H3 would possibly eliminate the excessive recoil? It’s quite difficult to reacquire a target when I get jostled that hard.
Going up to an h3 buffer will help. Adjustable gas block works better for reducing recoil.... But, adjustable gas blocks come with reliability concerns.
@@SpecOpsGear thanks for quick response. Well, in that case, perhaps I’ll just try the buffer and spring then
@@cZor if you decide to go with an adjustable gas block, it's best to set them and then never change them once set because they can get seized with carbon and then break when you try and change them later. Yes, heavier buffer is the most reliable solution.
@@SpecOpsGear So I just asked Daniel Defense what my gas port size is since I couldn’t find the info anywhere. It’s .093 which I assume is extremely gassy? So knowing that it cycles suppressed and unsuprrssed with supers and subs, can I reasonably assume H3 will work too since I’m already using an H2?
@@cZor Trust, but verify. If you're handy, you can buy just the weights and turn your h2 into an h3 with these weights (plus have some weights left over for other build).
pur-tungsten.com/product/tungsten-recoil-buffer-weights/
What weight are you running in that buffer? Total?
I currently have the odinworks 9mm heavy buffer set up with 1 tungsten, one steel and one aluminum. So, that would be about 5.4oz.
@@SpecOpsGear First off, thank you, your video is very well organized and informative. I'm having overgassing issues when supressed also.. Are you using a stock carbine spring with that 5.4 oz buffer?
@@jalowery1246 stock spring, yes. I tried the heavier sprinco spring but it led to odd behavior in the rifle so the carbine spring was best with a heavier buffer weight. The rifle stock with its heavier buffer also works well.
@@SpecOpsGear thx man. I'm currently using an armaspec SMB with and I just upgraded to their equivalent H3 on a 10.3 w/a bleed off adj gas block. Big 30 cal supressor. I'm lookin to optimize performance supressed(cause why not) then add a lil for reliability and leave it. I'm able to fine tune the rifle w/o the supressor just fine, but when I put the can on its hammer time, all the time. Even wide open, using the bleed off option, I can't get the rifle to fail lock back appreciated. I can do it with the restrictive mode but thats the devil, or so they say. Plus i payed for the fancy shit, I'm using the fancy shit. Anyways based on the very noticeable increased recoil when cycling I think its still overgassed. I've been told to disregard the recoil and pay strict attention to the angle of brass deflection. I don't know man
Unless I hear something logical that explains otherwise, I would assume that if I'm unable to bleed off enough gas to reach that balance point of near malfunction, than I should be able to reach it by introducing enough inertia(it is inertia right), through a buffer system including some combination of spring tension and weight. So yeah. Kinda stuck in the minutia. Might be asking too much. We'll see. After watching you I'm planning to go with that heavy adj buffer you suggested, order a few tungsten weights(cause with an H3 I'm already equal to your buffer weight), and start experimenting. Thanks for the advice, apologies for the essay, any and all advice/suggestions are welcome and apreciated.
@@jalowery1246 the odin "9mm pistol weight" buffer will adjust from h3 weight and up, way up and it fits standard 5.56mm ar15s. I find that increasing the buffer weight is the smooths out recoil more than increasing the buffer spring tension. In contrast, upping the buffer spring led to increased felt recoil. adjustable gas blocks "should" be the right answer for perfect recoil impulse but for me they fail unless i set them and then never change the setting.
Tuning for suppressors is more of a hassle than i anticipated. let me know how it goes.
Wtf is a sound suppressor?
"A silencer, also known as a sound suppressor..."
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silencer_(firearms)
Want to sell the blue spring?
"10 foot five inch barrel..."
10 foot minimum is the biden approved ar
There’s so much of an echo in your room I can’t even understand what you’re talking about.
Thats true, l figured out better mics in my newer videos.