NELK has inspired me to learn the ways of the ground fault circuit interrupter. I will be the greatest ground fault circuit interrupter expert there has ever been!
I am in process of replacing a couple or reg wall outlets with GFCI. Your presentation is by far the best. Clear, concise and you added two good notes... the tape around the terminals and the pig tail for the gound. When I opened my box the original (electrician?) had connected one ground and pushed the other to the back. Thank you for the quality of your presentation.
Thank you for demonstrating this. It’s so much easier to see something in action after reading. I read how to do it but the images in the book didn’t help. Your video made much more sense.
Excellent... very clear thorough explanation. Video was also good... we can actually SEE what you're doing! Taking time to review the process was also very helpful. Thank you!
I was frustrated nothing I was doing was right! Your instructions complete & crystal clear. The outlet Is in and working perfectly. I even did electrical tape wrapped. Thank you so much for your help!!
Great video, you explain the ground the load and the line side very well. So many videos only talk about the hot and the neutral. They don't even talk about line side or load On the gfci.but you did.
I appreciate the time you took to make this video. With 6 wires plus a ground your video explained it perfectly and I was able to complete my project without the need of an electrician. Thank you!
I watched several videos before I watched yours and they either went to fast or they didn’t show which plugs or explain about the line in and the loan and yours was perfect I got everything fixed thank you for putting the UA-cam video on
This is a very helpful video. Nice pace, easy to follow and the extra step with the electrical tape was a excellent idea. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
The only thing I must say about your video is that you need to always get use to a saying: "Black-Gold, Silver-White, Green/Bare-Ground. If you remember that, then you are on your way to always servicing or installing an outlet/receptacle properly.
Wow you explained that so well I had my load on top and hot on bottom the light was green but no power you really explained it soooooo well I should just pay you lol thank you so much.A load is what all the plugs are duh lol👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
HOW did you determine which wires consituted the incoming HOT line? You indicated early that you would get back to that later, but you never did explain how to make that determination!
Receptacle is upside down. Grounds should be on top. Say something falls on the plug in, like a picture frame. It hits the ground on top, not the hot. Learned this from master electrician who had to flip all the outlets in a government building so the grounds would be on top of the outlet & pass inspection.
i just moved in and my GFCI outlet in my kitchen is not connected to the ground.when i turn on the garbage disposal everything stopped working including my fridge.should i try to connect the ground wire?thanks
Nice video but it might have been helpful if you had differentiated the difference between the black and white line wires. The black being hot and white being neutral. I have had to work hot circuits many times and you really want to know the bad boy wire.
You didn't explain why you would want to connect both out going wires to the load or why someone might choose to connect one or both to the line. Sometimes you don't want GFCI on all lines leading out and thus getting tripped off by the GFCI. For instance, if one of the outgoing set of wires only goes to a light switch, you may want that light to be working even if the GFCI gets tripped which means it should be connected to the line and not the load.
Probably wouldn't want to put "lighting" on the load... you can tie them into the line instead. If you put them on load, they'll go off if your GFCI ever trips (or is tested).
Excellent video and I am doing this tomorrow morning. I was wondering what you were going to do with the extra white and black wires. Also, is it ok to cut the wires to shorten them? Why are they left so long in the first place? Thanks in advance.
If there is more than 1 load going out , don't you need to make sure your not exceeding the number of outlets/receptacles that the gfci is protecting?I believe code limits the number that a gfci can protect.
When you have the wires disconnected like he does in the video, turn your breaker on and use a voltage detector. Only one black wire will be hot - that pair is the line.
If you turned on thr breaker it would be the ones that had power. The other would be dead. So youd have to separate all the wires by taping them to the wall or putting caps on them and then test it that way. I dunno im not an electrician but thats what id do.
@@ekoms108 That would mean you would need one of those voltage testers? I don't have one and am a little gun-shy about doing anything with exposed live wires anyway. What if I just assumed the line wires were on top of the outlet and then tested that hypothesis after I wired the GFCI with that plugin tester he used at the end? Would that work?
All you need is a simple test light. Separate all the wires. Then turn the power on. Then test each set of wires with your test light. Black is hot white is neutral. The pair that light up the test light are the line.
Thank you very much for this very explicit video👍 question: the hot wire, is it the one that make the light blink I that kind of pen .....??? I hope you understand my question. Thanks again!
I have found it nearly impossible to get the wire hook on to the "floppy" screw head. For some reason, they make these outlets with side screws that barely come out far enough to get a thick wire under it. And the screws flop in and out of their hole, so you have to hold the outlet upside down to let gravity pull the screw out far enough to try to get a wire hook around it. Why is this thing so difficult!? I have been working over an hour on this, trying to connect 4 wires to this thing. So far, I got one attached. Now, it's late and I'm losing the light, so I may have to stop and try again tomorrow. I tried stabbing thru the hole on the back, but the wire keeps falling out, even after tightening it down. There must be a trick to this that I'm not aware of.
That's the difficulty of trying to wrap around the terminal screws with these devices. It's the same thing with commercial grade receptacles, only residential grade receptacles have a "fixed" screw. Using the back wiring clamping method is the favorable way to connect the wires. It's still a very good connection method. If you're having trouble with wires falling out, use a pigtail and connect only one wire. Use a Wago lever nut for creating the pigtail.
You forgot to say that the purpose of these GFICs is to occasionally turn themselves off for no apparent reason such as simply plugging something in at a cocked angle or slightly bumping the plugs. Then you find your cell phone and other charging units are dead un-expectedly while your far away from any means to re-charge them. Personally I'd rather risk that there might be a puddle of water on the floor I was standing in barefoot whilst I was sticking a prong into the hot side of the terminal..which is actually not a risk because it can't be done accidentally.
Use an electrical tester. Determine which hot+neutral pair has current. That's the line. Be careful, because this test is done with the breaker closed.
If you use the GFCI outlet for your installation, it should come with some stickers . One set might say GFCI protected and another might say ungrounded outlet. The stickers need to be applied to the faceplate when the installation has been completed to be up to code I believe.
You do not need to mark it anything. You can see it is protected from the fact that it has the buttons. If you chain from that you need to mark those at least when there is no grounding.
He did not put two wires under a single screw. The receptacle he has was designed to put one wire under each side of the screw (not curled around the underside of the screw. Because it was designed that way, it's perfectly fine. If more than two wires were being connected it would have to be pigtailed.
I've seen many videos showing how to install GFCI outlets and this is by far the easiest to understand for someone that doesn't know squat about electrical. can you tell me why this particular outlet has two sets of load wires? is this normal?
artincorona wondered the same thing. Watched a video from the manufacturer Levitron, it said if more than 4 wires plus the ground wire to contact an electrician.
Normally there is only one set of wires bringing the power into the box. Those wires would be connected to the line/hot terminals. Now let's say you have two sets of wires going out if the box like in this video. If you want the outlets that these wires lead to to all be protected by this single GFCI then they would be connected to the load. But those outlets may not be in a location where a GFCI is required and you may not want them to be protected by the GFCI. For example those outlets may continue on a kitchen circuit. If the GFCI bear you kitchen sink trips do you really want all the other outlets to lose power? Most likely not especially if one goes to the refrigerator (which should be on it's own breaker) so you would connect them to the line rather than to the load terminals. If there are more than two pair of wires you will need to pigtail them.
I really liked your presentation. No musical clutter, etc. Didn't even see your face. You get 100% grade.
NELK has inspired me to learn the ways of the ground fault circuit interrupter. I will be the greatest ground fault circuit interrupter expert there has ever been!
Excellent video - loved how you picked a complicated connection with three lines coming in - perfect!
I am in process of replacing a couple or reg wall outlets with GFCI. Your presentation is by far the best. Clear, concise and you added two good notes... the tape around the terminals and the pig tail for the gound. When I opened my box the original (electrician?) had connected one ground and pushed the other to the back.
Thank you for the quality of your presentation.
THANK YOU!!! After watching so many videos, the 1st first to use plain english and shows what to do!!!
Thank you for demonstrating this. It’s so much easier to see something in action after reading. I read how to do it but the images in the book didn’t help. Your video made much more sense.
This video is outstanding in its explanation. I highly recommend. Thank you!
Excellent... very clear thorough explanation. Video was also good... we can actually SEE what you're doing! Taking time to review the process was also very helpful. Thank you!
I was frustrated nothing I was doing was right! Your instructions complete & crystal clear. The outlet Is in and working perfectly. I even did electrical tape wrapped. Thank you so much for your help!!
Great video, you explain the ground the load and the line side very well. So many videos only talk about the hot and the neutral. They don't even talk about line side or load
On the gfci.but you did.
I appreciate the time you took to make this video. With 6 wires plus a ground your video explained it perfectly and I was able to complete my project without the need of an electrician. Thank you!
Except he didn't explain how to tell which wires are load.
Thank you. a refresher course is always helpful if you don't install sockets all the time.
I watched several videos before I watched yours and they either went to fast or they didn’t show which plugs or explain about the line in and the loan and yours was perfect I got everything fixed thank you for putting the UA-cam video on
This is a very helpful video. Nice pace, easy to follow and the extra step with the electrical tape was a excellent idea. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Your video was extremely helpful. Thank you very much I figured out the previous owners had the wires connected incorrectly.
thanks much I had all the wire crossed and totally screwed up....your video got the job done for me
Nicely detailed and explained. Best video I’ve viewed so far
As a weekend DYI and reading the responses below I did check the load lines w/ my audible voltage tester, thank you mate!
Smart how you presented this video to people who understand how to test line and load. Thank you!
This video was so informative. Thank you.
Excellent video-especially connecting two lines under the plate. Thanks
Very well done! Nice and methodical explanation of the components and steps. Thanks 🙏
How do you know which cords are the hot ones? There’s 3 black and 3 white.
That was a fantastic video! You totally solved my issues. Thank you very much! All the best to you and yours!
Excellent video and explanation. Thank you!
EXCELLENT VIDEO: up to date GFI, easy to understand, detailed...thank you so much!
Really well done video and very helpful and clear. Thank you !!
Can’t thank you enough! Saved me so much money I may have spent on an Electrician! Bless you!
Thanks a million ,your video was very helpful and I follow every step with wonderful results.
I cannot thank you enough!!! You nailed this.
Explained very well. Thanks.
This looks very straightforward and nicely explained... thanks a lot.
Thanks for this! This helped me a lot. I used it to get my lights back working. Lol
Just a great video. Helped me figure out my problem. Thank You
Thank you so so very much. well explained for people like me with no clue.
This is exactly what I was looking for and I got all hooked up perfectly!!
very good video !! very easy to follow; thank,s for taking it slow, much appreciated,PARICK
The only thing I must say about your video is that you need to always get use to a saying: "Black-Gold, Silver-White, Green/Bare-Ground. If you remember that, then you are on your way to always servicing or installing an outlet/receptacle properly.
Wow you explained that so well I had my load on top and hot on bottom the light was green but no power you really explained it soooooo well I should just pay you lol thank you so much.A load is what all the plugs are duh lol👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for posting this I had no idea how to do this!
Straight to the point. Thank you
Nice job this video solved my problem, great job!
HOW did you determine which wires consituted the incoming HOT line? You indicated early that you would get back to that later, but you never did explain how to make that determination!
worked perfect thanks. Mostly understanding the line power on the top line out to bottom!
To save some time in case you've made an error, test the outlet before you put it all back together just to make sure the wiring is correct.
Yes, excellent advice and I do just that.
Receptacle is upside down. Grounds should be on top. Say something falls on the plug in, like a picture frame. It hits the ground on top, not the hot. Learned this from master electrician who had to flip all the outlets in a government building so the grounds would be on top of the outlet & pass inspection.
This is so helpful. Thank you!
Thank you 🙏 so much for your great help video
Best instructions. Thank you very much
Thank you ! This video helped me a lot .
I just replaced mine! Thank you!
your video helped me tremendously Thank you
i just moved in and my GFCI outlet in my kitchen is not connected to the ground.when i turn on the garbage disposal everything stopped working including my fridge.should i try to connect the ground wire?thanks
I'm here beacuse of NELK droping out video. 😁😂😂
Mharco Vien Puetes yesssss
Nice video but it might have been helpful if you had differentiated the difference between the black and white line wires. The black being hot and white being neutral. I have had to work hot circuits many times and you really want to know the bad boy wire.
I always remember b to b (black to brass) and g to g ( green to green)
Excellent video! Very, very helpful. Thanks!
Good instructions, Thanks a lot.
Great video. I would really love it if you would put include how you need to also change the breaker or not.
how do you know the line and load from the wall ?
Great question. Too bad he never answered.
Good tip about the electrical wire!
Awesome video , very helpful. Thank You
Nelk needs this
How do you find out which wires are the hot and which ones the line? They all look alike--other than being black or white.
very helpful.. good video ty
You didn't explain why you would want to connect both out going wires to the load or why someone might choose to connect one or both to the line. Sometimes you don't want GFCI on all lines leading out and thus getting tripped off by the GFCI. For instance, if one of the outgoing set of wires only goes to a light switch, you may want that light to be working even if the GFCI gets tripped which means it should be connected to the line and not the load.
Best informative video
My gfci keep shutting off when I reset it. There is nothing plugged in.
Probably wouldn't want to put "lighting" on the load... you can tie them into the line instead. If you put them on load, they'll go off if your GFCI ever trips (or is tested).
poetnk that’s a great point. Also worth mentioning when should you use a 15 amp or a 20 amp...
Thank-you kindly very very helpful.
Very simple! #easy. How do you test for line/ load wires?
Thank you soooooo much.
How do you know which white wire is hot
Excellent video and I am doing this tomorrow morning. I was wondering what you were going to do with the extra white and black wires.
Also, is it ok to cut the wires to shorten them? Why are they left so long in the first place? Thanks in advance.
By code those wires should be six inches long, minimum.
@@njsongwriter Thanks.
How how do you know which cable is is the main line and which is the load lines
How do you know which are the line wires?
Thank you for making this video!
What's the 3rd pair of wires for??
How do I find the lines? There are 3 black and 3 white.
If there is more than 1 load going out , don't you need to make sure your not exceeding the number of outlets/receptacles that the gfci is protecting?I believe code limits the number that a gfci can protect.
Tbone productions nope
you didn't show how to know the main line and load lines?
When you have the wires disconnected like he does in the video, turn your breaker on and use a voltage detector. Only one black wire will be hot - that pair is the line.
He said the line was the first wires you hook up. You have to remove the yellow sticker to attach the load wires.
@@blazezoolander7473 ?????????
Thanks you awesome teacher
How do you know which are the load lines and which are the main lines? By the way, not here from NELK ;) Thanks for the video!
If you turned on thr breaker it would be the ones that had power. The other would be dead. So youd have to separate all the wires by taping them to the wall or putting caps on them and then test it that way.
I dunno im not an electrician but thats what id do.
@@ekoms108 That would mean you would need one of those voltage testers? I don't have one and am a little gun-shy about doing anything with exposed live wires anyway. What if I just assumed the line wires were on top of the outlet and then tested that hypothesis after I wired the GFCI with that plugin tester he used at the end? Would that work?
All you need is a simple test light. Separate all the wires. Then turn the power on. Then test each set of wires with your test light. Black is hot white is neutral. The pair that light up the test light are the line.
Thank you very much for this very explicit video👍 question: the hot wire, is it the one that make the light blink I that kind of pen .....??? I hope you understand my question. Thanks again!
could you have pigtailed the two load hot and neutral wires and then just have one wire attached to the outlet on the load side?
Much appreciated!!! Thanks
Very useful .....nice
I have found it nearly impossible to get the wire hook on to the "floppy" screw head. For some reason, they make these outlets with side screws that barely come out far enough to get a thick wire under it. And the screws flop in and out of their hole, so you have to hold the outlet upside down to let gravity pull the screw out far enough to try to get a wire hook around it. Why is this thing so difficult!? I have been working over an hour on this, trying to connect 4 wires to this thing. So far, I got one attached. Now, it's late and I'm losing the light, so I may have to stop and try again tomorrow. I tried stabbing thru the hole on the back, but the wire keeps falling out, even after tightening it down. There must be a trick to this that I'm not aware of.
That's the difficulty of trying to wrap around the terminal screws with these devices. It's the same thing with commercial grade receptacles, only residential grade receptacles have a "fixed" screw. Using the back wiring clamping method is the favorable way to connect the wires. It's still a very good connection method. If you're having trouble with wires falling out, use a pigtail and connect only one wire. Use a Wago lever nut for creating the pigtail.
You forgot to say that the purpose of these GFICs is to occasionally turn themselves off for no apparent reason such as simply plugging something in at a cocked angle or slightly bumping the plugs. Then you find your cell phone and other charging units are dead un-expectedly while your far away from any means to re-charge them. Personally I'd rather risk that there might be a puddle of water on the floor I was standing in barefoot whilst I was sticking a prong into the hot side of the terminal..which is actually not a risk because it can't be done accidentally.
How did you determine which wires were line and which were load?
Use an electrical tester. Determine which hot+neutral pair has current. That's the line. Be careful, because this test is done with the breaker closed.
Excellent video thank you.
Were the load side wires previously joined together or were they connected to the standard receptacle?
Good video, Geo. Is there a special GFCI breaker that needs to be installed for or along with these kind of circuit outlets? Nice video very good job!
No special breakers are needed in conjunction with a GFCI.
If you use the GFCI outlet for your installation, it should come with some stickers . One set might say GFCI protected and another might say ungrounded outlet. The stickers need to be applied to the faceplate when the installation has been completed to be up to code I believe.
You do not need to mark it anything. You can see it is protected from the fact that it has the buttons. If you chain from that you need to mark those at least when there is no grounding.
The GFCI does not need to be marked. Those stickers are used to mark other receptacles downline that are connected to the load.
why is the pipe above that meter melted ???
Awesome video!
FUCK MAN, YOU DISCOVER THE WARM WATER!!!! LOL
2 wires under a single screw? Is that proper only for the load wires and terminals?
There would be no reason to double up the wires on the line screws.
He did not put two wires under a single screw. The receptacle he has was designed to put one wire under each side of the screw (not curled around the underside of the screw. Because it was designed that way, it's perfectly fine. If more than two wires were being connected it would have to be pigtailed.
Great video amigo muchas gracias
Very helpful thank you
I've seen many videos showing how to install GFCI outlets and this is by far the easiest to understand for someone that doesn't know squat about electrical. can you tell me why this particular outlet has two sets of load wires? is this normal?
artincorona wondered the same thing. Watched a video from the manufacturer Levitron, it said if more than 4 wires plus the ground wire to contact an electrician.
Normally there is only one set of wires bringing the power into the box. Those wires would be connected to the line/hot terminals.
Now let's say you have two sets of wires going out if the box like in this video. If you want the outlets that these wires lead to to all be protected by this single GFCI then they would be connected to the load. But those outlets may not be in a location where a GFCI is required and you may not want them to be protected by the GFCI. For example those outlets may continue on a kitchen circuit. If the GFCI bear you kitchen sink trips do you really want all the other outlets to lose power? Most likely not especially if one goes to the refrigerator (which should be on it's own breaker) so you would connect them to the line rather than to the load terminals. If there are more than two pair of wires you will need to pigtail them.