Easy way to explain Line & Load that I find is to remind people that the 'IN' in Line represents power coming in, while the 'O' in Load means power going out downstream.
I like the way chuck explained it! Like to meet a guy like you on the job site. I’ve been in the field for almost 4 years but I work for a controls company and we usually mess with a lot of low voltage stuff so I’m trying to get the high voltage knowledge to go along with my low voltage I need a raise lol
No mnemonic required. If you don't know the difference between LINE and LOAD, then you have no business working on electrical systems. It's also just EASIER to remember what LINE means instead of having to remember a mnemonic which renders zero understanding.
As a 80 year old man, I appreciate you young people explaining the way you do. Technology has sure changed since my youth. Thanks so much for your sharing your knowledge.
Sir you’re 80? Maybe 81 by now- my mom is 60 and can’t turn her phone off and on- you sir are commenting on a UA-cam video. You are awesome! And you are staying with tech pretty good
I'm 81 and after 4 minutes of this gave it up because this guy doesn't know how to side-wire this outlet. I'm not going to explain. Look around; there must be another 50 vlogs on the same subject (many of them incorrect as well?)
@@jackriley5974 You don't have to side wire a GFCI, it's called back wiring and it's just as good. The plates clamp down as you tighten the screw. Leviton now has Wago style recepticles that take 3 seconds to wire. Decora Edge. Side wiring will be obsolete soon.
@@jackriley5974 You mean "back-stabbing" not "side-wiring". The blue residential grade outlet he is using to demo the "back-wiring" is actually "back-stabbing" - and that's a disaster waiting to happen. He demos "back-wiring" on the GFCI outlet.
The best and clearly easy to understand video on installing a GFCI I’ve ever seen. Thank you so much. This 80 year old codger on social security trying to bring my equally old home safe and up to code. 👍
IMPORTANT: Leviton GFCI's have "Line" terminals at the top. The model shown in this video (including the wiring diagram shown) has line terminals at the bottom. At 3:35 in the video you note something like "If you are replacing an old GFCI with a new GFCI then it is easier to do as you just place the wires from the line terminals of the old GFCI onto the line terminals of the new GFCI." Strictly speaking this is correct, but only if you use a voltage tester or actually read the labels on the back of the old GFCI and the new GFCI. If you are unfortunate, your old GFCI may have the line terminals on the top while your new GFCI has the line terminals on the bottom. If this is the case and you simply move the top wires from the old GFCI to the top terminals of the new GFCI and move the bottom wires from the old to the bottom terminals of the new then the LED of the GFCI will light up green, suggesting that it is active, but the GFCI will not reset, the outlet itself will not be live and the downstream circuit will not be live. You may then think that you have to call an electrician to track down a (non-existant) ground fault. The bottom line (no pun intended): when wiring a GFCI, you MUST read the labels on the back of the outlet (or read the installation instructions that come with the new GFCI) and make sure to connect the live wire from the panel and the neutral coming from the panel onto the terminals marked "line" on the back of the new GFCI outlet.
I'm not an electrician but I think the correct way to do it would be to to remove the old outlet, cap the hot wires, energize the circuit and then voltage test. Reading the old outlet is assuming the previous installer did the job correctly, which isn't something I would do.
What if I replace a normal outlet with GFCI (leviton), it's a single outlet, nothing downstream. I connected to the line side but my LED light didn't turn on (outlet was working though) and I tripped it but it won't reset?
yeah this happens a lot in apartment kitchens where the circuit will trip due to over load and often the gfci will not function anymore and have to be replaced. they are expensive
Yeah, thank you so much because it was my first time wiring one of these outlets and I couldn’t explain why it wasn’t working until then. I researched a video in this came up. Thanks to you. I got it working.
Thank you! Trying to setup Christmas lights on my home that I just purchased a couple months ago and none of the exterior outlets had power! Turns out that they were all wired incorrectly, the explanation on Load vs Line made it very clear.
Best, clearest explanation that I have found. The only thing not mentioned is if you have a receptacle before the ground fault receptacle that is controlled by the same breaker. Ie.- garage door verses receptacles In the garage walls.
Thanks, this was super helpful. I replaced some GFCI outlets and they didn't work after I was very careful to make sure all wiring was done exactly the same way. Couldn't figure out what was wrong, so I watched this video. Turns out the Line/Load indicators were opposite (Line on top of old receptacle, and on the bottom of the new one). Thanks, saved me tons of troubleshooting time!
Thanks for showing this, I installed a new 20amp outlet, only have one neutral wire in the socket and I plugged it into the load line not knowing what that was for. Tested the cables and plenty of voltage but the outlet had no power. Switched the neutral line from load to line and works perfect. Thanks!
Thank you for the easy explanation, which helped me get two outlets up and running. I will try to complete the GFCIs in the kitchen area when I have more time tomorrow.
A good one to remember is line in and load out for power to a gfci. Also where you have old knob and tube wiring with no ground, if you run a ground to the first outlet and install a gfci like the example in the video, every plug after that will be gfi protected even though there's no ground.
@@2Truth4Liberty definitely, having a direct to earth ground on every plug is ideal. Alot of folks can't afford a complete rewire, so adding a gfci like I suggested is a temporary solution that works and is within budget for most.
No mnemonic required. If you don't know the difference between LINE and LOAD, then you have no business working on electrical systems. It's also just EASIER to remember what LINE means instead of having to remember a mnemonic which renders zero understanding. Why do you speak on things you clearly don't understand. GFCI protection is ground independent and NO GROUND IS REQUIRED for GFCI protection. Period. If you have three-prong receptacles, then it's dangerous if there is no actual ground because the device you're plugging in is designed for protective ground if it has a three-prong plug. Stop giving advice as if you KNOW the subject when it is clear to those who do that you're ignorant.
@@2Truth4Liberty Don't listen to this fraud. GFCI protects downstream devices and no ground is required. Period. If you home does not have protective grounds run, then GFCI is a great way of protecting people from electrocution because it senses very small (1-3 mA) current differences in the HOT and Neutral conductors. You need to be very careful, though, that there is no other neutral path downstream or the GFCI will trip every time since both the HOT and Neutral need to be connected only to the GFCI on the LOAD side.
Wow, thanks so much, I blew out my gcfi outside, hooked wires to the line terminals. Nothing worked, even the kitchen lights, I was afraid to hook them up to the taped load wires. Watched your video and decided that I needed to hook them to loaded terminals, and like magic they all work now!
Great video! I couldn't figure out why the new GFI wasn't working. When you spoke about the poles on the old and new receptacle being inverted. I changed the wires and, BINGO! problem fixed!
Guys, here is The True Savior HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH” YaH is The Heavenly Father YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE - Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses) - Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah) Isaiah 42:8 "I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.” Isaiah 43:11 “I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.” Isaiah 45:5 “I am YaH, and there is none else.”
Thanks. Good video. My home was built in 1990 so I was looking for info about how to update the electrics to bring the home into todays code requirements and this video was a great help.
Thanks for this video, the old GFCI outlet had the Line side at the top and my new one had it at the bottom. I was wondering why the new one didn't work and all the downstream outlets weren't working when I put the wires back the same way on the new outlet as the old one. Glad to know the Load side is the downstream wires.
Thanks! to your excellent explanation here, you have helped me determine how, why and where it is I can use a GFCI receptacle in a small RV trailer outdoor galley area (will be standing on the surface of the Earth while using galley and it's electric appliances). Cheers.
Excellent presentation. Very good and simple explanation. Not like some of the crap put online by total idiots who think they actually know what they're doing.
Great video. My question is about the size of the GFCI. I've had instances where replacing a regular receptacle with GFCI, I find it's sometimes really difficult to "stuff" the new GFCI into the box and worry that the wires will get pinched. Same thing happened when I replaced a standard receptacle with a USB version - it was much larger. In that case, I actually ended up having to buy a deeper box and replace it. Any tips for stuffing these things back in the box without worrying about pinching the wires? Is it even something I should be worried about?
I can sympathize. Especially if you're doing a reno project and adding GFCIs where there were none before and you have shallow box. You could use a box extender (looks weird) or install a GFCI breaker in appropriate slot in the panel. To answer your last question, pick up a VoltClaw to manipulate wires in the box. I use one frequently on the renovation I do.
Very well done in all respects. Like I always say, it's easy when you know how. You made this task easy, now I know (understand) why. Thank you very much.
You are extremely professional on explaining every detail excellent tone of voice and proper words easy to catch everything no bad words make the teaching more professional thank you
Excellent explanation of the load versus line and the different types of connecting the wires. Thank you very much as I am now comfortable with proceeding to replace my GFCI outlet.
I have outdoor outlets with GFI. There is a small light on the outlets that are green sometimes and off most of the time. The outlets work even if the light is off. What is this light for. Thanks
Depending on the manufacturer the light might show that the outlets are protected (green or off) or tripped (off or yellow or red). It would be nice if this was consistent. For yours though, since the light is sometimes on or off and it seems to be fine, I'd test it with the button to make sure there is no power coming through the outlets when it's tripped. I had one outdoor receptacle that was bad and wouldn't reset. I have another video on that.
@@TopHomeowner to make things even more a PITA are the GFCI's that have EOL indicator light. Township inspector kept falling our property cause we have the GFCI with EOL light ; only goes out when GFCI finally dies
Very interesting, thank you. I just needed to replace a broken GFCI, and somehow stupidly got the bottom line neutral wire crossed with the top load neutral wire and it didn't work, so I had to pay an electrician to come out to move one wire! But I had put a voltage tester on both load and line wires and got voltage, which was confusing. If I turn off the circuit breaker, what's the best way to determine which are the line wires? Of course going forward I learned to mark the two line (or load) wires with tape to ID them, as in my case the wires shifted when I disconnected them from the broken GFCI outlet. Thanks for the clear video instruction.
Where I work tested the outlets found 2 black wire white wires reversed! To a GFCI out let in the bathroom! A big no no for a commercial location! The wiring has many open grounds due to being old and one outlet out in the lobby! Yes I used to work for a electrician! Started school for it but the whole trig was out of my wheel house!
Good video. I also suggest testing them periodically, they too go bad, apparently about every 10 years is a reasonable lifespan. If you have an older property, you may not even have these fitted in the kitchen, bathroom or externally. There is an inexpensive plug-in tester, with a button to set off the GFCI to check if the outlet is protected. There is also a slim version GFCI, as it is sometimes too crowed in the box when replacing just a regular outlet. Hope this helps someone!!!
Very helpful, thanks. One of mine in the kitchen sparked and shutdown killing all the downstream outlets. I noted at Home Depot they have 15 amp and 20 amp rated GFCI outlets. I assume both will work but will get the higher rated one.
Very well done. Doing my basement remodel and wanted to tap off an existing outlet - switching that to a GFCI will make the new downstream outlets much safer. Thanks!
I had a guy at one of the local electrical supply house say that it was Line In from the panel and Load Out to other outlets. A good way to remember it for DIYers.
Great video. I am looking to replace all outlets in my house. There are only a few current GFCIs. Excluding price, should I make all of the outlets GFCIs or only the ones near water? Meaning, would it be tacky during a house-resell to have so many GFCIs.
Yes, but keep in mind that using higher loads at the same time can overload the circuit and the GFCI doesn't protect against that, it's the circuit breaker's job.
Thank you Sir for this video. You have explained very well for me a diy person like myself. I’m going to subscribe to your channel very very clear. Thanks for your support, I will be watching. Thanks from Georgia.
The video talks about side wiring, back wiring (the conductor that is clamped behind the screw), and speed wiring (plug the conductor into a hole that holds it in place). In the video, the author calls speed wiring the same as back wiring.
Definitely informative .. I wanted to know I'm goin to put a gfci outside away from my house to power some low voltage lighting so with that being said .. the garage has a gfci already so when I wire it I will still use the line installation rather than the load I will not run any other outlets from the gfci ? Ty
If you are wiring another outlet from a GFCI, then everything downstream needs to be on the load side to be protected. Line = power source (breaker panel basically). If you want to add an additional GFCI (and not have them daisy-chained) then yes, you would need to continue off of the line, either the additional backwire holes in the current GFCI, or wire with pigtails. Hope this helps and that I understood your question correctly.
good video. how does one know if your GFCI is forward of the other load plugs? If it's at the end it may not work as well I assume. @3:00m you show the load to the right. what if that plug is where the GFCI is placed? How does one know or can someone tell?
Easy way to explain Line & Load that I find is to remind people that the 'IN' in Line represents power coming in, while the 'O' in Load means power going out downstream.
I like the way chuck explained it! Like to meet a guy like you on the job site. I’ve been in the field for almost 4 years but I work for a controls company and we usually mess with a lot of low voltage stuff so I’m trying to get the high voltage knowledge to go along with my low voltage I need a raise lol
@@smoothjb2384 ok
I always used the fishing analogy. You throw your line in the water and pull your load out.
Chuck Williams, Downstream is a phrase in the Beatles song "I'm Only Sleeping".
No mnemonic required. If you don't know the difference between LINE and LOAD, then you have no business working on electrical systems. It's also just EASIER to remember what LINE means instead of having to remember a mnemonic which renders zero understanding.
As a 80 year old man, I appreciate you young people explaining the way you do. Technology has sure changed since my youth. Thanks so much for your sharing your knowledge.
Glad to help!
Sir you’re 80? Maybe 81 by now- my mom is 60 and can’t turn her phone off and on- you sir are commenting on a UA-cam video. You are awesome! And you are staying with tech pretty good
I'm 81 and after 4 minutes of this gave it up because this guy doesn't know how to side-wire this outlet. I'm not going to explain. Look around; there must be another 50 vlogs on the same subject (many of them incorrect as well?)
@@jackriley5974 You don't have to side wire a GFCI, it's called back wiring and it's just as good. The plates clamp down as you tighten the screw. Leviton now has Wago style recepticles that take 3 seconds to wire. Decora Edge. Side wiring will be obsolete soon.
@@jackriley5974 You mean "back-stabbing" not "side-wiring". The blue residential grade outlet he is using to demo the "back-wiring" is actually "back-stabbing" - and that's a disaster waiting to happen. He demos "back-wiring" on the GFCI outlet.
The best and clearly easy to understand video on installing a GFCI I’ve ever seen. Thank you so much. This 80 year old codger on social security trying to bring my equally old home safe and up to code. 👍
Thanks for your video. You answered my question about line and load. LINE IN---LOAD OUT
IMPORTANT: Leviton GFCI's have "Line" terminals at the top. The model shown in this video (including the wiring diagram shown) has line terminals at the bottom. At 3:35 in the video you note something like "If you are replacing an old GFCI with a new GFCI then it is easier to do as you just place the wires from the line terminals of the old GFCI onto the line terminals of the new GFCI." Strictly speaking this is correct, but only if you use a voltage tester or actually read the labels on the back of the old GFCI and the new GFCI. If you are unfortunate, your old GFCI may have the line terminals on the top while your new GFCI has the line terminals on the bottom. If this is the case and you simply move the top wires from the old GFCI to the top terminals of the new GFCI and move the bottom wires from the old to the bottom terminals of the new then the LED of the GFCI will light up green, suggesting that it is active, but the GFCI will not reset, the outlet itself will not be live and the downstream circuit will not be live. You may then think that you have to call an electrician to track down a (non-existant) ground fault. The bottom line (no pun intended): when wiring a GFCI, you MUST read the labels on the back of the outlet (or read the installation instructions that come with the new GFCI) and make sure to connect the live wire from the panel and the neutral coming from the panel onto the terminals marked "line" on the back of the new GFCI outlet.
Just happened to me. I had a phone call with an electrician and he helped me over the phone, great guy. It was an Leviton as well! Thanks!
Nice
I'm not an electrician but I think the correct way to do it would be to to remove the old outlet, cap the hot wires, energize the circuit and then voltage test. Reading the old outlet is assuming the previous installer did the job correctly, which isn't something I would do.
100%accurate..... Leviton has everything labeled.... Darwinproof for most
What if I replace a normal outlet with GFCI (leviton), it's a single outlet, nothing downstream. I connected to the line side but my LED light didn't turn on (outlet was working though) and I tripped it but it won't reset?
Much easier to follow your instruction than the written directions, thank you!
Saved me a lot of work by explaining one GFCI can protect other outlets.
yeah this happens a lot in apartment kitchens where the circuit will trip due to over load and often the gfci will not function anymore and have to be replaced. they are expensive
Best and easiest explanation of understanding and installing a gfci outlet. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Yeah, thank you so much because it was my first time wiring one of these outlets and I couldn’t explain why it wasn’t working until then. I researched a video in this came up. Thanks to you. I got it working.
Most comprehensive explanation of GFCI receptacles I've seen so far! Thanks! Learned a lot!
Great to hear!
Great video with clear & simple explanation. Also includes some great tips and reasons to not do certain things. Thank you very much!
Thank you! Trying to setup Christmas lights on my home that I just purchased a couple months ago and none of the exterior outlets had power! Turns out that they were all wired incorrectly, the explanation on Load vs Line made it very clear.
Glad the video helped!
Best, clearest explanation that I have found. The only thing not mentioned is if you have a receptacle before the ground fault receptacle that is controlled by the same breaker. Ie.- garage door verses receptacles In the garage walls.
Good point! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks, this was super helpful. I replaced some GFCI outlets and they didn't work after I was very careful to make sure all wiring was done exactly the same way. Couldn't figure out what was wrong, so I watched this video. Turns out the Line/Load indicators were opposite (Line on top of old receptacle, and on the bottom of the new one). Thanks, saved me tons of troubleshooting time!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for showing this, I installed a new 20amp outlet, only have one neutral wire in the socket and I plugged it into the load line not knowing what that was for. Tested the cables and plenty of voltage but the outlet had no power. Switched the neutral line from load to line and works perfect. Thanks!
Very helpful! Thank you for laying it all out and with basic pictures! Super helpful
Thank you for your warm and enthusiastic explanation! I got my questions answered.
Thank you for the easy explanation, which helped me get two outlets up and running. I will try to complete the GFCIs in the kitchen area when I have more time tomorrow.
Just replaced a GFI with the help of your excellent explanation thank you!
Glad it helped!
Much better video then the last, alot easier to understand.
I've got a lot of electrical plugs that i need to replace so this video will really help
Great video. The best explanation with detail that any novice can follow.
The video is probably the best on the internet. You described it good thanks
Thanks! I appreciate the comment
A good one to remember is line in and load out for power to a gfci. Also where you have old knob and tube wiring with no ground, if you run a ground to the first outlet and install a gfci like the example in the video, every plug after that will be gfi protected even though there's no ground.
Is there any benefit in running a ground from the GFCI to the downstream outlets rather than just using "two-wire w/o grd"?
@@2Truth4Liberty definitely, having a direct to earth ground on every plug is ideal. Alot of folks can't afford a complete rewire, so adding a gfci like I suggested is a temporary solution that works and is within budget for most.
No mnemonic required. If you don't know the difference between LINE and LOAD, then you have no business working on electrical systems. It's also just EASIER to remember what LINE means instead of having to remember a mnemonic which renders zero understanding.
Why do you speak on things you clearly don't understand. GFCI protection is ground independent and NO GROUND IS REQUIRED for GFCI protection. Period. If you have three-prong receptacles, then it's dangerous if there is no actual ground because the device you're plugging in is designed for protective ground if it has a three-prong plug. Stop giving advice as if you KNOW the subject when it is clear to those who do that you're ignorant.
@@2Truth4Liberty Don't listen to this fraud. GFCI protects downstream devices and no ground is required. Period. If you home does not have protective grounds run, then GFCI is a great way of protecting people from electrocution because it senses very small (1-3 mA) current differences in the HOT and Neutral conductors. You need to be very careful, though, that there is no other neutral path downstream or the GFCI will trip every time since both the HOT and Neutral need to be connected only to the GFCI on the LOAD side.
@@DiffEQ , I just replaced mine and the instructions on the GFCI showed it to be grounded.
Thanks for helping me understand the difference between the load and the line. I was struggling with that untill I watched your video.
Glad it helped!
SO helpful!! Thank you! It’s not for a bricks and sticks but it’s for a van conversion!
Thanks for the simple explanation.
Thanks for showing how to connect a GFCI. Great video.
You bet!
Wow, thanks so much, I blew out my gcfi outside, hooked wires to the line terminals. Nothing worked, even the kitchen lights, I was afraid to hook them up to the taped load wires. Watched your video and decided that I needed to hook them to loaded terminals, and like magic they all work now!
That's great to hear!
Very helpful video for someone with limited electrical knowledge, like me.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! I couldn't figure out why the new GFI wasn't working. When you spoke about the poles on the old and new receptacle being inverted. I changed the wires and, BINGO! problem fixed!
The best video on UA-cam regarding this project. Excellent job 👍👏👏
Thank you very much!
I like the way you show the pic of diagram how to hook wire up to the recepticals.
Great educational.
Thanks!
Guys, here is The True Savior
HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH”
YaH is The Heavenly Father
YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING
YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins
YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE
- Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses)
- Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah)
Isaiah 42:8
"I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.”
Isaiah 43:11
“I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.”
Isaiah 45:5
“I am YaH, and there is none else.”
This is the best video on this topic on youtube, subscribed.
Great video, clear cut and straight forward .
Thanks for this video, probably the best I have ever seen. Well explained and best practices for wiring.
Very good explanation for any beginner. Thank you for your detailed information. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video, clear and to the point. This helped me in my home project.
This really helped me out a lot. Thank you for making it so easy to understand! Was able to get my wiring project done!
Glad it helped!
Excellent job explaining with video. I'm doing this in my bath now. Thanks bud !
Glad it helped!
Thanks. Good video. My home was built in 1990 so I was looking for info about how to update the electrics to bring the home into todays code requirements and this video was a great help.
Thanks for this video, the old GFCI outlet had the Line side at the top and my new one had it at the bottom. I was wondering why the new one didn't work and all the downstream outlets weren't working when I put the wires back the same way on the new outlet as the old one. Glad to know the Load side is the downstream wires.
well written. very informative for the home person.
Thanks! to your excellent explanation here, you have helped me determine how, why and where it is I can use a GFCI receptacle in a small RV trailer outdoor galley area (will be standing on the surface of the Earth while using galley and it's electric appliances). Cheers.
Excellent presentation. Very good and simple explanation. Not like some of the crap put online by total idiots who think they actually know what they're doing.
Great video. My question is about the size of the GFCI. I've had instances where replacing a regular receptacle with GFCI, I find it's sometimes really difficult to "stuff" the new GFCI into the box and worry that the wires will get pinched. Same thing happened when I replaced a standard receptacle with a USB version - it was much larger. In that case, I actually ended up having to buy a deeper box and replace it. Any tips for stuffing these things back in the box without worrying about pinching the wires? Is it even something I should be worried about?
I can sympathize. Especially if you're doing a reno project and adding GFCIs where there were none before and you have shallow box. You could use a box extender (looks weird) or install a GFCI breaker in appropriate slot in the panel. To answer your last question, pick up a VoltClaw to manipulate wires in the box. I use one frequently on the renovation I do.
Great explanation and diagram to help us DYI homeowner etc... Excellent
Thanks! 👍
Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this. Really great video and camera work!!
Thanks! Glad it's helpful.
Great explanation. Clear with no excess verbiage.
Man....... You are so thorough fully...👍👍
Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Very well done in all respects. Like I always say, it's easy when you know how. You made this task easy, now I know (understand) why. Thank you very much.
Thanks for the comment and I'm glad it was helpful!
Great job. I appreciate how you get straight to the point.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
You are extremely professional on explaining every detail excellent tone of voice and proper words easy to catch everything no bad words make the teaching more professional thank you
thank you for the tips! replaced the old gfci and added a new outlet with USB! 🤙🤙🤙
Awesome! I'm sure that will be nice to have :)
Great video. Very useful information for my mental toolbox!!!
Thanks! Glad it helped.
Excellent explanation of the load versus line and the different types of connecting the wires. Thank you very much as I am now comfortable with proceeding to replace my GFCI outlet.
Glad it helped!
That you for making it easy,I was going to spend $90 an hour
I have outdoor outlets with GFI. There is a small light on the outlets that are green sometimes and off most of the time. The outlets work even if the light is off. What is this light for. Thanks
Depending on the manufacturer the light might show that the outlets are protected (green or off) or tripped (off or yellow or red). It would be nice if this was consistent. For yours though, since the light is sometimes on or off and it seems to be fine, I'd test it with the button to make sure there is no power coming through the outlets when it's tripped. I had one outdoor receptacle that was bad and wouldn't reset. I have another video on that.
@@TopHomeowner to make things even more a PITA are the GFCI's that have EOL indicator light. Township inspector kept falling our property cause we have the GFCI with EOL light ; only goes out when GFCI finally dies
Very interesting, thank you. I just needed to replace a broken GFCI, and somehow stupidly got the bottom line neutral wire crossed with the top load neutral wire and it didn't work, so I had to pay an electrician to come out to move one wire! But I had put a voltage tester on both load and line wires and got voltage, which was confusing. If I turn off the circuit breaker, what's the best way to determine which are the line wires? Of course going forward I learned to mark the two line (or load) wires with tape to ID them, as in my case the wires shifted when I disconnected them from the broken GFCI outlet. Thanks for the clear video instruction.
I just did the same thing. Electricians LOVE people like us cause it's a simple fix and easy money for that repair.
Once you know which one of the wires is load and which one is line the other neutral wire connected to it will be the load or the line.
Been there as well. I had to call an Electrician out. But he showed me the error of my ways.
Excellent....very well and plainly explained.
you're good.
You know your stuff.
I appreciate that!
Amazing!!! It was a piece of cake after your explanation 🎉
Where I work tested the outlets found 2 black wire white wires reversed! To a GFCI out let in the bathroom! A big no no for a commercial location! The wiring has many open grounds due to being old and one outlet out in the lobby! Yes I used to work for a electrician! Started school for it but the whole trig was out of my wheel house!
Thank you. You saved me an expensive call to the handyman.
Amazing no nonsense explanation. Thanks 👍
Thank you for this! Very good and simple explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Super helpful! Thank you for being so clear and to-the-point
No problem, thanks!
Good video. I also suggest testing them periodically, they too go bad, apparently about every 10 years is a reasonable lifespan. If you have an older property, you may not even have these fitted in the kitchen, bathroom or externally. There is an inexpensive plug-in tester, with a button to set off the GFCI to check if the outlet is protected. There is also a slim version GFCI, as it is sometimes too crowed in the box when replacing just a regular outlet. Hope this helps someone!!!
Awsome video! Thank you. This was intricate in me wiring my own correctly.
Very helpful, thanks. One of mine in the kitchen sparked and shutdown killing all the downstream outlets. I noted at Home Depot they have 15 amp and 20 amp rated GFCI outlets. I assume both will work but will get the higher rated one.
Very well done. Doing my basement remodel and wanted to tap off an existing outlet - switching that to a GFCI will make the new downstream outlets much safer. Thanks!
You bet!
I had a guy at one of the local electrical supply house say that it was Line In from the panel and Load Out to other outlets. A good way to remember it for DIYers.
Beautiful; exactly what I was looking for!
Very helpful video. Great way of explaining it!
This video helped me fix the issue. Thanks.
Awesome, good to hear!
Bro the way You explain Is awesome 🎉 thank You SO much!!!! 🤘🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Explain very well ,easy understand thanks for video 👍
Very good explanation. Thanks
Thank you. Great job at teaching!
I find this video very helpful I have to replace one ,thank you for sharing
Great video, very clear, thanks very much!
Thank you so much for simple and clear explanation!! Save me $250!
excellent !!~ now I know what I was doing wrong..thanks for this video. very, very helpful !!
Thank you for the information it teach us the difference between the two, like it.
You bet!
So much great info in a few minutes....thanx!
Very welcome!
Great! Exactly what I needed
Super informative video!! Very well done - I learned a lot! Thank you!!!!!
helpful allot for mentioning that all the following circuit is protected thank you very much
Needed the refresher. Thanks bro!
You bet!
Great video. I am looking to replace all outlets in my house. There are only a few current GFCIs. Excluding price, should I make all of the outlets GFCIs or only the ones near water? Meaning, would it be tacky during a house-resell to have so many GFCIs.
Only use them where required, near water and outside. Use high quality "spec grade" 15 amp receptacles everywhere else for 120v outlets.
@@surferdude642 ok. Thanks
"Loads" of good information, Thanks!
Thank you. that helps understand the proper wiring . I us not sure if you could install more outlet after the GCFI.
Glad it helped!
Thanks man. super simple and easy to follow. cheers!
Thank you .
Good ,clean simple leason.
Can you plug a multiple plug adapter sold on Amazon into regular plug along the line
Yes, but keep in mind that using higher loads at the same time can overload the circuit and the GFCI doesn't protect against that, it's the circuit breaker's job.
Thank you Sir for this video. You have explained very well for me a diy person like myself. I’m going to subscribe to your channel very very clear. Thanks for your support, I will be watching. Thanks from Georgia.
Great to hear, thank you!
The video talks about side wiring, back wiring (the conductor that is clamped behind the screw), and speed wiring (plug the conductor into a hole that holds it in place). In the video, the author calls speed wiring the same as back wiring.
Excellent job explaining this!
Thank you!
Damn very well and simply explained 👏 👌 👍
Suppose I want to install a non GFI indoor receptacle. Can I pigtail to the outdoor GFI and use the existing line to get my power for inside?
Finally found a video that answered my question...
Definitely informative .. I wanted to know I'm goin to put a gfci outside away from my house to power some low voltage lighting so with that being said .. the garage has a gfci already so when I wire it I will still use the line installation rather than the load I will not run any other outlets from the gfci ? Ty
If you are wiring another outlet from a GFCI, then everything downstream needs to be on the load side to be protected. Line = power source (breaker panel basically). If you want to add an additional GFCI (and not have them daisy-chained) then yes, you would need to continue off of the line, either the additional backwire holes in the current GFCI, or wire with pigtails. Hope this helps and that I understood your question correctly.
good video. how does one know if your GFCI is forward of the other load plugs? If it's at the end it may not work as well I assume. @3:00m you show the load to the right. what if that plug is where the GFCI is placed? How does one know or can someone tell?
Learned so much from this! Thank you!
You're welcome!