Okay, this is a bit confusing because there are some tests left out of this video (like testing the plug side while power is reaching the lug side of the brown CFGI or "child receptacle"). First of all, let's assign some names to the GFCI's in question. We'll refer to the first GFCI (white/off white) as the "parent" and the second (brown), third, fourth, ect... GFCI's as the child/ren. - outlets hooked up in series (connected to the bottom lugs of the GFCI outlet). To simplify this, do not/never hook up GFCI's in series. Only connect them in parallel as if they are independent from other GFCI's on the same circuit. Voltage drop from one GFCI/GFI to another will prevent children from resetting. You only need one CGFI for child outlets ran in "Series" (using the bottom lugs on the parent GFCI to connect child outlets - being mindful of how many outlets you can run on one circuit by code). GFCI should be able to trip with a short (grounded circuit) upstream and downstream, which trips the auto-shutoff feature of the receptacle/s (all the GFCIs on the same circuit should trip). The confusing part is that nowhere in the video does it show a reset of the child (brown) GFCI after the parent was tripped (indicating a voltage drop preventing the child GFCI from resetting or it wasn't manually reset until later, which we did not see), resetting the child GFCI should correct the power-flow to the plug-side/s of the all the children receptacles. So, as elementary as the GFCI function is, as long as there is power fed through the receptacle both the parent GFCI and theoretically the series GFCI receptacles have been manually reset, the power should flow through to the plug side of the parent and child/ren GFCI's (unless there isn't enough power to the GFCI in order to reset it/them). Problem again is, there's a voltage drop that keeps child CFGI's from resetting. The point is,, you do not need multiple GFCI's as long as you connect standard outlets in series to the parent GFCI outlet using the first method demonstrated in this video. It is not recommended to use this method to series GFCI's outlets (if it happened to work at all) because when one GFCI trips, they all should respectively trip and making it difficult to isolate where a short might be occurring (which will leave you and even a professional electrician with the proverbial head-scratch wondering why someone would subject themselves or anyone to that mess). It is wiser to choose whether or not to provide direct power (wiring in parallel to each receptacle, isolating GFCIs and with or without child outlets) or simply installing one GFCI that controls all following child outlets in series (connected to the bottom lugs of the GFCI). - Do not add GFCI's in series, meaning a parent GFCI controlling GFCI/s downstream, that's just being a jerk and causing you the headache of having to reset all dependent GFCI's, if they work at all, in the event one becomes tripped. Rely on one GFCI to control multiple child outlets or provide direct power to each GFCI independently on the same circuit.
In order to run a "series", couldn't you just figure out the formula-for-resistance-loss for every "child" outlet, then check the specs on the gfci for the required ohms? (I'm thinking one or two "child" outlets would operate properly but that's purely a common-sense guess.)
@@jban4457 the use of "series" and "parallel" with gfci's can be confusing. Gfci's simply check for a current imbalance and trip. We connect up 120vac to the GFCI input (line) and it protects that outlet. There are terminals (load) to allow the GFCI to essentially be the protected power source for recepticles connected down stream, giving them GFCI protection. Running power through the GFCI like that can been refered to as "series" because power runs through it, however, it passes power through like a breaker (120vac) to the parallel connected down stream recepticles. If you need GFCI protection in two spots, you can "T" tap or pigtail or parallel connect two gfci's On the (line) side to have GFCI protection and a GFCI in each location. Gfci's do not play well with one another when one feeds the other.
I have an old house that has both bathroom wall outlets on the same circuit. I changed out both today with GFCI outlets and spent several hours trying to figure out why the second one would not work. Stumbled across this video and resolved the problem in a minute. Thanks for the video. It was a big help.
You wasted time and money. A circuit only needs one GFCI and it should be on the receptacle closest to the breaker panel. The GFCI installed this way protects all outlets downstream.
Greetings, Sir! I think I have the answer to your question as to "why" this works (correct me if I am wrong). We know that an A/C circuit is a parallel circuit. SO, in order to make the 2nd GFCI independent of the first one, we have to wire the UNgrounded Conductors "in parallel with" the TRUE source (the circuit breaker). By wiring the ungrounded conductors in parallel with the BREAKER, we allow current to flow to each receptacle at all times INDEPENDENTLY OF the upstream GFCI. I think this would be more evident into the viewers if you had used a pigtail, because it would show that the current is "dropped off" at the 1st GFCI receptacle AND it continues to the 2nd one simultaneously. This reminds me: I need to make this correction on my own house tomorrow from when I was an apprentice. Thank you for your excellent videos! If someone already commented on this, I apologize!
I can’t express my gratitude enough! This was driving me crazy…I have one gfci line running to 2 bathrooms and I couldn’t get the new outlets to work in the second bathroom! Problem solved! 😅🙏
Thank you. Home inspector said I had to put a GFCI on the outside [under porch] but no one realized it was daisy chained from the GFCI in the kitchen. Was having this very problem and this just fixed it.
Nice catch and discovery! May I make a suggestion that you label the outlet/receptacle that is outside and under the porch saying that it is GFI/GFCI current protected. Most GFI/GFCI have several small peel off and use labels included in the packet/box the GFI/GFCI comes in that are designed for this. All outlets/receptacles that are downstream, connected to the "load" side of the GFI/GFCI should be labeled as GFI/GFCI protected.
The reason I want to do this is, I have two sump pumps in my yard that I want to run off of one 20 amp circuit with a regular breaker. I want the sump pumps independent of each other so if one trips their GFCI outlet it won't shut down the other sump pump when there is no problem with that pump. Thanks for posting this and explaining. I'll be wiring them so they are in parallel with each having their own ground, neutral and hot.
Thanks for this video. I’m a DIY-er getting ready to install several receptacles around my outdoor patio, so will have several GFCIs on one circuit. Basically, looks like pigtailing them / wiring in parallel is the only way to go.
I really liked your explanation. I needed this because I have to change out a regular receptacle to a a GFI on the other side of our kitchen sink. So, in other words there will be two GFI breakers on each side of the kitchen sink for safety sake. Keep up the good work!!
Good video Brother. Just retired out of IBEW Local 130. I can’t explain it either but you are correct, it doesn’t work if you use the load side to feed another GFCI.
Thanks. I am doing my own basement and I had to put 3 gfci in the kitchen counter and I was having the same issue. I did it they way u showed in this vedio it worked. Thank.
Thank you thank you for this video! I had it wired right but ended up with no bathroom fans, lights or outlet juice in two bathrooms. Made no sense until I finally found this gem advice, It worked! Now if I can just get the broken bottom screw out of the box housing, it'll look nice too. :)
Lol, I have been going at it for 2 days on an outdoor project, powering an outdoor kitchen and outlet in the garden which we think should be gfi. This vid will allow me to redeem myself
I like your video/s and I know you're trying to help people. Let me also say that I'm not disagreeing with you, esp since I've seen your theory of wiring multiple GFCIs on 1 circuit used on other websites/searches. Only problem I have (which might be where a lot of people get confused) is if you look at the instructions that come in the box of a new GFCI, there's a diagram showing the correct way (or the manufacturers suggested way) to wire multiple GCFIs to 1 circuit is to take feed wires from breaker (panel) to line side of 1st GFCI, connect load (branch circuit/downstream) wires to load side of 1st GFCI, then connect those wires to line side of 2nd GFCI and repeat that process for however many GFCIs you are installing on that circuit. In other words go line to load, line to load, line to load etc. I have pictures of instructions from a brand new Eaton GFCI that illustrate this, however I can't add photos to this comment (or at least I can't figure out how to add the photos). Not sure where this leaves us, but I wanted to point out what the manufacturer (in my case Easton) suggests as to the correct way to wire multiple GFCIs on 1 circuit.
worked for me too thanks! - was going from existing GFCI outside my house, running power to an outside GFCI on a shed. seemed valuable to have both outside plugs as GFCI
@@actionjksn no particular safety reason. I just bought two…..Legrand radiant Night Light, Self-Test GFCI Outlets, Safe for Kids, Tamper Resistant, Brushed Nickel, 15 Amp, 1597NTLTRNICC4 on Amazon because I like the metal look. Afterwards I needed this video to figure out how to wire one GFI to another.
I've replaced many kitchen GFCIs, just using the existing wire method they used ( Line in load out) and have never had a problem. Tested all and theu all worked corr8
You are an excellent instructor. I've done this several years ago. It always worked fine so I feel confident. Although I'm going to take off the cover tomorrow and recheck it lol. It's in metal box and mounted on the block wall.
Thank you! This is a good explanation and tutorial. This is long and about crazy electrical work in Mexico. Read on if you want to laugh and be frightened at the same time. I’m a gringo living in an apartment in Mexico. I don’t even know where to begin! In the U.S., where we have codes and shit, I was able to troubleshoot and repair electrical issues, confident that there was a basic logic based on county and national building codes. I was even able to add new circuits/circuit breakers when I needed a separate circuit for the computer room or when I set up a 220 circuit for welding. The building is between 15 and 20 years old, built by my landlord and one of his sons. I’ve been living here for nearly 10 years. It’s 2Br/1 bath/kitchen/living room, and a rooftop patio. The building is 2 second floor apartments and one commercial space on the first floor. I believe that the landlord and the son did the electrical themselves or didn’t hire a competent electrician. Also, as is common, the electrical service is split between the two apartments-meaning that each apartment gets one of the phases at our meters. My neighbor gets 120v of one hot leg, and I get the other 120. There is a single 30 amp breaker at my service panel!! All the outlets and overhead lighting are fed from a single 30 amp breaker! The house is brick construction and the wiring is buried in the walls. I’m not entirely sure if everything is wired in series or if it’s branched. If branched, the first splice is buried somewhere in the walls. Am I making sense? Also, there was no ground. One of the first things I did was to drill a hole in the foundation and hammer a 4’ copper pole into the ground. (My service panel is by the front door on the first floor.) This is so I could add two new grounded outlets to the living room for the TV and computer. I added new wire (romex 12 gauge) from the breaker-basically another splice, but at the breaker/service panel. Yeah, I know, not kosher! In the U.S., I would have added a new breaker at the panel. Here, there is no room for a second breaker on the panel. I guess at some point I might upgrade the panel or even upgrade the service to 100 amps. I hesitate because this is a rental, but I’ve been here 10 years. I’m doing a kitchen remodel and I want to replace the the outlet by the sink with a GFCI. The grounding issue is complicated. Here’s what I’ve done: the water pipes were not grounded as they’re fed from a big water tank on the roof. I’ve run a ground wire from the copper grounding pole to the water pipes. Under the kitchen sink I’ve attached a ground wire. It’s currently attached to the previous outlet (the wire is surface mounted in a plastic cable channel). I plan to add more outlets upstream. I know full well that what Im doing would not be allowed by the NEC in the U.S. I’m just trying to make my apartment safer, without going to the expense of completely redoing the electrical. Maybe I should move, but $186/month is strong motivation to stay. The plan is to do a little bit to improve the situation each month. Oh, and I haven’t even mentioned the situation with the back bedroom. It shouldn’t be too hard to solve when I get around to it: there is a open neutral somewhere. I just use the room for storage anyway. One ceiling light and one outlet function properly. But I also dread opening a can of worms and discovering the problem is more complicated than I hoped. Anyway, that’s my ongoing crazy Mexican wiring story. Also, I think this experience has cured me of my libertarian tendencies.
Wow that is alot of problems. Good for you though to try to make it safer. I understand that rent is super low. I have only in my whole electrical career seen first hand one service that was 120volts. I have heard about it before but to actually see it was something else. If you keep upgrading I'd tell him to make sure he takes it off the rent. Good luck 🤞
Some hair dryers have a GFCI built into the cord. WHen I plug a hair dryer like that into a wall-mounted GFCI, it works fine. This means (at least in this case) that there is no problem with putting GFCIs in series. Is there something unique about the case I describe here that allows GFCIs to be wired in series?
well I'm glad I accidentally run across this video. I recently made a few pigtail GFCI boxes to use on my string of drop cords on the job site so that I don't have to deal with running all the way back to the house. also many customers don't have a GFCI outlet outside their house so when it trips I have no power until I catch them at home in the evening. it really sucks when they are out of town. Anyway, I did it the wrong way and kept running back and forth chasing tripped outlets forever. I couldn't understand what was happening. THANKS
We are adding an outdoor GFCI outlet off a line in the kitchen that already has 1 GFCI outlet protecting 3 standard outlets. How do you connect/wire a new GFCI outlet to a reg outlet? The line-load method is causing the new one to trip immediately. Thank you for the education!
The previous owner of my house wired up multiple GFCI outlets in series/chains in this house. I think the reason mine work and yours didn't is because mine are ungrounded. It's always fun when the 3rd or 4th receptacle doesn't have power and I have to check every one from the panel to the problem outlet to see which one tripped.
I’m brand new at all this but I’m eager and want to be great at it thank u for your video ! My question is when putting a gfci in what can u do wrong that your other outlets won’t be protected
Run a few regular outlets from your one gfi. Note, the gfi is the first outlet on the circuit, use them in bathroom, kitchen, basement, garage and out door outlets or use ark and combo circuit breakers (new code).
My 1950 house does not have a third wire ground (this was not required until the mid 60's). The kitchen has 6 outlets on a 20 amp circuit. When I moved in I replaced them all with 20 amp, 3 prong outlets, with the first outlet a GFCI feeding them. I had never put a GFI in before but I saw the LINE and LOAD terminals stamped on the back and correctly connected them. But if you plug in a GFI tester downstream, the test button does not work. However a dryer plugged in the 1st downstream outlet had a ground fault and it did detect it and tripped (my brother found it and fixed it). Out in the garage I installed a 20 amp GFI and six downstream outlets. Of course this was wired to current code with 2 wire with ground Romex. I plugged in the tester in the last outlet pressed the button and immediately heard a loud click some 30 feet away, the circuit was dead.
Great video! I'm currently rewiring my kitchen, gonna have (I know, I know) 3 GFIs on a 20 amp circuit. There will be no other load on that circuit, just multiple outlet options, house was built before electricity. Two will be joined in a junction box and the third will tail off the last GFI, now I know how to do it without getting confused. Thanks!
I experienced the exact same issue and I was completely stumped. I took everything apart and double checked everything again. Same exact issue. I used a screwdriver and depressed the reset on both GFCI until I heard a loud "CLICK". The first way, the wrong way actually works. You just need to reset both GFCI.
You're not supposed to put multiple GFCIs on one circuit, you put one single GFCI on the first one in the series and then it will protect all of the other outlets. That is nothing but a big waste of money putting multiples on one circuit.
with the "wrong" way, if the parent one trips so will the second or third etc. I have a parent GFCI in a bathroom inside a rental studio and three other receptacles downstream off that GFCI. So if it trips in the rental bathroom all the other ones go to. The other ones are in a second studio or outside plugs. If the parent one trips, my second rental has no power in the kitchen and I have to get permission from the renter to go inside and fix it, which can take hours. So I am changing the wiring on the parent receptacle the "right" way, so each GFCI is independent from the others. hope that makes sense. '
Have a outdoor lamp post, front porch and back deck that I want on the same circuit. The all in one outdoor in use covers from the big box store already come with the GFCI so I am using both. soooooo. Outside lamp post runs to front porch GFCI and gets connected to load. The front porch and back deck both go to line yea? I know its dumb but its a visual thing for a future homeowner to see the GFCI versus guessing
Question: what if the breaker pan has gfi breaker, does that mean all same leg molex wires stay on line lugs and never load lugs ? Many thanks for your video. When should you use the load lugs of gfi outlets ?
If you have gfci breakers. You won't need gfcis at the receptacle boxes. The only times that you use load is when you are trying to make another recep that is non gfci make it protected by the gfci
I am a 2yr apprentice and recently ran into an issue. A main line from the Box was brought into a GFCI line/load (#1) in a bathroom, hopped over to another GCFI (#2) line/load, up to a light fixture, then over to a single pole switch. Best recommendations of fixing this issue??
There is a valid reason to have multiple GFIs pigtailed on the same circuit. You may wish to have your GFCI protection local to the room. For example, a single circuit can service countertop receptacles in multiple bathrooms. Perhaps you want each bathroom to have its own GFCI receptacle so a trip doesn’t require a person to go to another bathroom to reset the tripped receptacle.
If wiring GFCIs for multiple bathrooms (that are on the same circuit), would all the connected GFCI receptacles (including the initial one closest to the panel and all downstream GFCIs) need to be wired only on their line sides? Does this setup change if there's a standard receptacle somewhere in that circuit?
@@ibizanlove Yes, line side only. Or you can use some 12-3 between the receptacles of the first bathroom to pass current around the GFCI of the first bathroom, or splice at the outlet where the first GFCI will reside, and take power to the second room from there, while using the load side of the first GFCI to protect the rest of the receptacles in that bathroom. Many different ways to do it.
you can install a regular outlet where the second GFCI is, the way you have now, you just can't install a second GFCI through the load terminals, but I think you can pigtail the hot line into the first GFCI, if you want to put a second GFCI.. Does that all make sense?
Great video. Here is my situation. I have a GFI in my garage that protects an outlet on my porch. I added another receptacle in the garage (from a single gang to a double gang), and all seems good. What I would like to do is replace the porch receptacle with a GFI so that if the porch GFI trips the garage GFI will not. Is this possible?
This was great! But I’m curious, is it possible to add two GFCIs independent of each other on one circuit, with standard receptacles in between? From example, I have 5 outlets on one circuit in a sunroom. First outlet on the circuit has a GFCI. I want that first GFCI on the chain to protect outlets 2, 3, and 4 downstream of the first/initial GFCI. The last outlet on the circuit is an outside outlet. I have a waterproof covering on the outlet, but on the chance that the outside outlet gets tripped, I wouldn’t want the other outlets upstream of the 5th/outside outside to also shut off. (My router is plugged in on the first of the chain) How would I go about keeping the GFCI on the first receptacle of the circuit to then protect outlets 2-4, while also ending the chain with a GFCI that would be essentially separated from being protected/protecting outlets 1-4? My goal is to have the first GFCI protecting outlets 2-4, and to have the outside/5th receptacle only trip and shut off itself if it has an issue.
I have this setup. The house I bought has a GFCI on an outside outlet and it ties in to another GFCI in my bathroom. Would you recommend that I just replace the outside receptacle with a non-GFCI, outdoor rated receptacle? Or, if you suggest that I keep them both how can I tell which one is the main one to connect this way?
My opinion is the keep it the way it is that way if you're outside and it trips you don't have to go all the way inside just to reset the GFI especially if you're on an extension cord and you have to put it down whatever you're doing and then walk all the way in the house after a while it could become very annoying. I'd keep it exactly the way it is
@WhynotDIY Hello, I have an old house and from research it looks like I can "upgrade" two pronged outlets to three pronged outlets using a GFCI outlet. From what I can tell, it is "safer" to do it this way. Here is my question: I have 4 wires in each box, 2 black (hot), and two white (neutral). The first GFCI install went off without a hitch, but the next 3 (they desperately needed replaced) would not reset after tripping. **Are your instructions in video still applicable if my house is wired the I mentioned above?**
Hi friend, thanks for this video but I have a question, I did the wrong way like you show in the video but I still have power on both gfci. I want to show you how I have everything connected. From the breaker I have the 1st gfci, then 2nd gfci then three regular outlets. On one of those regular outlets , my refrigerator is plugged. Every gfci and regular outlets have power but this is the problem- after 3to 4 hours the first gfci triggers and shut down all please can you help me with this problem? Thanks
I appreciate ur answer to my last question. I have another question that is unrelated to the video. I’m working on a house with old cloth wiring. Do u know how to figure what size the wire is? The fuse on the circuit I’m working is 20 amp but the receptacles are mostly 15 amp which I know is wrong and maybe a 20 amp receptacle or two mixed in there. That’s where my confusion is coming from. I can’t tell if the fuse is wrong or the receptacles. So I figured the wiring size will tell me what the circuit is supposed to be. But not sure cus it’s old wiring.
So if it's 14 gauge wire you definitely cannot put a 20 amp receptacle on there. But if it's 12 gauge wire you can put 15 amperceptacles on there or 20s I have a video on that and I'll link it right here so you can watch it.ua-cam.com/video/5wJOydWK8Ws/v-deo.htmlsi=q4AwaCk2_YQvAS_w
Well, I'm hoping to learn how to fix an issue I have. My sense at the 2:44 mark is that I can't simply swap in a 2nd GFCI close things up and move on. I have 2 outlets in the bathroom, 1 is a GFCI (it's open ground) and right next to the tub I have a non-GFCI (it's also open ground).
I recently replaced several GFCI receptacles for a friend and found three GFCI's wired just as you described. Since all three were on the backsplash behind the sink, I questioned why they would not just used two regular receptacles wired through the load side of a single GFCI. I assume the only reason would be if one trips the others may still stay 'alive'. Is there any other reason I'm not seeing?
Thank you so much!! I had this issue 2 weeks ago, I was so embarrassed that I didn't make it work., Now I was blaming a 30am braker feeding a couple of 15 amps receptacles., So question? Why would someone use a 30 am kind of like a double braker? Is ok?
Well by code if you share a nuetral you have to have a double pole. But still if it's a 12 Guage wire it's only for 20 amp receptacle or more than one 15 amp. My guess is that it's sharing a nuetral
I have a situation where I have 14 dock slips divided into 2 GFCI Breakers, ,However the GFCI breaker is located about 100 feet from the docks and every time someone leaves an extension cord plugged in and there is any moisture in the air the GFCI breaker trips leaving at least half of the dock without electric. I was wondering if I could replace the GFCI breakers with a normal breaker and wire in separate GFCI outlets so that only the person that is causing the problem would be without electric until they reset their GFCI outlet. This explained how this can be done .
I have a new circuit for an outdoor patio extension. Hot coming into a double gang box with two GFCI receptacles. Then a third GFCI at a grill station. All are in outdoor approved boxes. I have them wired via your "wrong" method but am confused because the sticker on the load terminals say to only remove if feeding additional GFCIs, which I am. Currently none of the three GFCIs will reset with the breaker on. I originally had the first box wired via the pigtail method to the line terminal on receptable 1, then load on receptable 1 feeding line on receptacle 2, then load on receptable 2 feeding line on receptacle 3. The breaker would trip instantly at the panel every time. These 3 receptacles are the only 3 on this circuit. I am going to try your "correct" method. But, my gut also is telling my that I may a ground wire coming in contact with a neutral or hot once I jam everything back into the double gang box as it is super tight. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
That's what it sounds like to me. You have to use the line on every gfci. And make sure that nothing is touching the box nuetral. Let me know if you fixed it
Does that same thing happen when you wire other AFCI outlets downstream/Load from an existing AFCI outlet? I saw a vid that this home inspector did about this same topic and in the example he had 4 GFCI outlets wired downstream from the load terminal of the first GFCI outlet on the circuit. To get all of them back online you have to reset them in the order they are beginning with the first GFCI from the breaker.
I know this video is 3 years old but I thought I would explain what is happening here. GFCI's When they see a fault they trip very fast, like within a few milliseconds. In the first case with the two GFCI's wired together both see the fault and trip at the same time. To get both of the outlets in the first example working correctly you would have to reset both GFCI's. In the second example the two GFCI's are wired independent of each other so only one GFCI will see the fault and trip.
Ok so I want to tap into an existing GFCI to a new one for a small above ground pool motor ( 11 amps) Going to use a 20 amp gfci. Going to put both grounds connected with a ground connector,neutrals (white) into silver holes. Hot (black) into bronze colored hole on other side. Going to the new gfci ground to ground hole, white ( silver hole) black to hot side on top? Or does it go to bottom load?
Either are legal. I prefer pigtailing. Failure of one recepticle will only stop that one from working. If you use the device as a conductor, its failure stops all the others from working.....think string of christmas lights.
@@keithharrington4595 you ever look at how screw terms are bridged its not like a thin filament as a bulb they are bridged by like no 6 copper wire lol
@@wizard3z868 my experience tells me that many people hook them up as you suggest, it is legal. I have spent hours hunting through houses to find "the one" that hand a high resistance connection ,(even just the plug connection) that overheated and caused 5 or 6 more to stop working.
correct me if i'm wrong here. wiring multiple gfci's the "correct" way on the load side gives you protection just at that single outlet without tripping any of the other gfci's on the same circuit. am i thinking right here?
Did you try to reset both GCFI outlets when connected in serial? Another UA-camr showed it is possible to have multiple GCFIs connected but highly confusing because the user has to figure out where the fault originated and reset all subsequent connections. Thus not code.
Are you allowed to run a 12/3 cable from the breaker to GFCI (1) then tie one of the hot wires from the 12/3 to the line terminal on GFCI(1) then tie the other hot wire to the hot wire of a 12/2 cable that links (but not tied to load) GFCI1 and GFCI2 ? I guess what Im asking is are you allowed to mix different cable types like that or does NEC make you use the same cable type for that entire circuit?
You can tie them like you are saying. Be careful sharing nuetrals on one nuetral with gfcis because chances of it working are not good. Just make sure you protect it with the correct over current device (breaker)
I wanted it for my trailor running a space heater. Gfci goes to 6 outlets on a 15 Amp breaker. But half way through I wanted to add another gfci so the Heater only trips the last 3 that I don't care about and not all of them. This didn't help for my answer much
Are you saying that you cannot have any wires connected to the load side of the first/parent GFCI outlet? I have a problem. One GFCI outltet running garage door openers, outside landscape lighting, and two curb lights at the end of my driveway. Openers and landscape lighting is fine, but there is something shorting out at the driveway lights that I cannot find (about a 100 ft, run buried cable). When it rains heavily, and only then, the GFCI trips takind down everything. If I disconnect power from driveway lights, everything is fine. So in my mind I thought I would use two GFCI outlets, but thought of the first one having the garage openers and landscape lighting connected to the load of the parent GFCI outlets, and connecting only the driveway lights to the load side of the second/child GFCI such that in my mind I still would have openers and landscape lights running if driveway lights short out somewhere and hopefully trip only the child GFCI. I have the impression that this approach will not work, correct? Cannot seem to fix this problem.
This is great info, but what about if it's an old house and there's no ground on any outlet? Would I still put the downstream gfci on the line of the upstream gfci? I already have 3 gfci outlets in the wrong way but as soon as I put the 4th one on it trips and I cant find the issue afterwards?
Yes. If you are using GFCI outlets because the house has no ground on any outlet and are using the GFCI for safety due to lack of ground, you have to make sure to use the second method where all wires are hooked on the line side. If you only want one set of wires going to each outlet then pigtail the incoming wire, the outgoing wire and a third wire that will connect to the outlet.
The answer you gave at first was wrong even if you included that they all had to be connected to the line side. 1. In dwelling units, you can put as many on one circuit as you want. Dwellings are required to have a certain number of circuits based on square footages. And minimum spacing of 6’ from openings and 12’ center to center. Strictly by NEC, you can put one every 6” along your walls and connect them to the correct number of circuits. 2. Non dwelling occupancies. Receptacles are to be considered as 180 watts or 1.5 amperes per yoke of the receptacles, and are also considered non continuous load. So, 20 amp 120 volt circuit can have 13 receptacles maximum, and 15 amp circuit can have 10. 20/1.5=13.3. 15/1.5=10.
I am going to replace 3 GFI outlets in my primary bathroom, mainly because they are 20 years old. 2 outlets have reset buttons, but one doesn’t. The outlet that doesn’t have a reset button does have a GFCI sticker on it. So, I guess there are GFI outlets that don’t require reset buttons?
Lol my House 1989 Build is so poorly wired the only 2 Gfci in my 2 story home is one in garage and one in kitchen..the kitchen was 15A on 20a circuit and wasn't even working,builder did it all backstabbed every outlet and switch,ground wires plastered instead of connected, i pray it doesn't burn down till we have the money for a pro to run through the whole system.Great explaining on wiring .
@@MountaineerOutdoors Ya its matter of what the tax return will cover this year,just to change the 7 outlets in my kitchen had to turn off 5 breakers lol
@@MountaineerOutdoors ya one outlet on a wall was tied into the living room breaker,one outlet the one the big lights plug into the ceiling was another,the fridge stove and 2 outlet next to stove another,the Gfci another,and of course Dishwasher and disposal on a dedicated 20amp lol To turn off the one outlet in my backyard and the 4 in garage I have to turn off a breaker marked Gfi ,which also my low voltage is tied into I.E. my house number and doorbell lol
Your video was very helpful thank you so much for taking the time to make it. I have regular 15 Amp outlets in my basement with a 20 Amp Circuit breaker and want to switch them to(WR) Weather Resistant 20 Amp GFCI Outlets and found this very helpful. I rent the house I live in "built in 1920" and all the Outlets where old and most of them we lose from the plug area and when I replaced them I noticed all of them were 15 amps. When I checked the circuit breaker box outside the house I seen that all the breakers are 20 amps using 12 Gauge Copper wiring except the Air Conditioning Breakers, those were 2 x 50 Amp Outlets and the main power breaker that shuts everything down is 2 x 100 Amp Breakers. I will definitely buy these off your affiliated link. It's the least I can do to support the channel. Thanks again for help me as a DWYER, my landlords don't fix anything so I do all the work my self. 🙏🙇♂️
That sucks about your landlord. I appreciate you watching and commenting and supporting my channel. I hope everything gets fixed for you. Take care and good luck
Read those instruction for those gfci's carefully. They do not play well together when one feeds another. You can have one GFCI feed several or use pigtails to attach power to the "line side".
I thought you could have all your receptacles GFCI, but the power in is connected to the line side of each of them. I don't like having "hidden" GFCIs where a bunch of circuits are connected to the load side of a GFCI, but it's not obvious when that GFCI trips.
The black GFCI is not tripped right? This video doesn't make sense to me... if you connect the load side of the white receptacle to the line side of the black receptacle I don't see why it should matter where the line came from (the breaker or another GFCI)
Yeah, I think he botched the explanation a bit. The second GFCI *will* work as wired initially, but you'd have to reset it after resetting the first one. The reason you wouldn't want it wired that way is - imagine if you have 4 or 5 GFCI outlets on that circuit, when one trips, you'd have to reset it and then ALL the other ones. Would be a real pain in the neck. Best practice is to wire how he shows it in the end (preferably with a pig tail) and put GFCIs for all outlets near water sources.
@@jetlaggedchef6806 Yup that makes a lot more sense. I also wonder whether perhaps it's better to make resetting inconvenient as GFCIs do not spuriously trip, they trip for a reason, which could be the GFCI is bad. Making it inconvenient forces a homeowner to address the issue. It's not like AFCI where nusiance tripping in normal usage is more common
So the outlets above my kitchen counter, …for the ones on the same circuit with eachother, I only need to make sure the fist outlet in the circuit is a gfci receptacle…and the rest of the outlets above the counter following the first one can be all regular outlets??
I Want to thank you for your outstanding video instructions on your explanation on circuity! Ive watched many videos on circuity and your instructions helped me understand it and complete my wiring correctly! Thank you very Much!
Great video! However, you can wire GFCI outlets in a line-load...line-load...line-load series. I know, because I have successfully done it. Here's the issue with doing it that way. You will lose power to all outlets downstream of the GFCI outlet that trips. However, I like your way better, because if the GFCI outlets are wired in parallel, as you demonstrated, each GFCI outlet has an independent power source, which allows each GFCI outlet to work independently. Bottom Line: listen to this guy and wire your GFCI outlets in parallel, NOT in a line-load...line-load...line-load series configuration. Thank you, Sir, for your expertise!
As many as you want. The NEC does not restrict the number of outlets on one circuit in residential applications. More outlets means less extension cords, the very thing they never want to be needed in a home.
If the national electrical code requires all outlets in bathroom to be gfci and one happens to have mutliple outlets in bathroom then we have to do this ?
Mine work?!? I wired 2 GFCI’s the first “wrong way” and then saw this video after but they both work fine just independently. Should I be concerned & do I need to change it for safety reasons?
No but as you see what could happen if one trips you may need to reset all of them.so no need to change them. Great question and thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Sweet video, question for ya, im ginna wire up my shed and was planning on one GFCI from the panel 3 regular recepts and the end of line being a recept located outside the shed, and was gonna put a GFCI on that, question is, would i hook it up like u just showed ? Bit confused . Will the recpts after the first GFCI be protected? If wired up this way? Thanks in advance....
If the 3 regular receptacles are wired to the load side of the GFCI, they are protected. If that's the case, you can then wire the outside receptacle out of any one of the 3 regular outlets or the load side of the GFCI & it will also be protected. I try to never place a GFCI receptacle outdoors. I always try to use a standard receptacle outside which is wired from a GFCI outlet or GFI protected outlet which is inside. You very seldom get a tripped receptacle outside that way. I also NEVER wire in series through a receptacle unless it's a GFCI. I always wire from pigtails.
I replaced 2 working outlets with 2 GFCI 15 amps on a 20a breaker in the kitchen near the sink. Pigtailed them black to line(brass) white to line(silver) to both GFCI and I put a tested on the terminals and get lights on the voltage tester and with a meter 120v but when I plug any thing in, I get nothing. Double checked incoming wires for power and get 120 but nothing is power up when a device is plugged in There are no indicator lights on the GFCI. The reset and test buttons do nothing. I even swapped out for another still nothing. What should I look for ?
I did the same thing with an exterior outlet on our fifth wheel, and I have a GFCI outlet on the outside of our fifth wheel that is connected to the load side of our GFCI in our fifth wheel's bathroom and it works!
Customer has a prefab greenhouse with a gfci. The whole thing plugs into another gfci on a stand alone breaker. When the greenhouse is plugged into the other gfci, the gfci on the breaker stops working.
Usually I pig tail all receptacles. GFI or not. The only time I dont is off 1st gfi feeding and protecting down stream outlets. Then I use the load side of a gfi. But depending on the manufacturer, Leviton GFIs will protect unlimited devices. Eaton 3-6 devices and Legrand 6-8 devices. (Directly from the manufacturers engineers) Before installing another GFI in the same circuit.
Ok, If I want to add 1 GFCI to protect an entire run of 7 additional outdoor receptacles, I would use the load to protect the remaining receptacles? Thanks
Hey thanks for the vid it did help!! I have a question idk if you or anybody here could help. I'm remodeling my house and had to rewire the whole thing, now I connected the electrical box and everytime I turn a breaker on it doesn't trip it but cuts power off I've been troubleshooting it but I can't seem to find the solution. I have a tester with me and power is on at the poles, all the breakers are off. As soon as I turn any breaker on the power to the the box shuts off. When I turn the breakers off the power at the poles turn back on
Nice video man. Takes some courage to put one's livelihood out there for a zillion other arm chair electricians to pick apart. Well done. Just a thought, not a critique... it would have been beneficial, I think, to show a "test/reset" cycle of the secondary outlet. Gfi outlet replacement, although relatively standard fare for a working electrician, can be trickier than people give it credit for. A simple, yet very worthy topic.
I appreciate your comment and watching. I agree with you on this whole comment. I have had some pretty interesting talks with so called electricians who try to throw code at me and telling me that I am wrong. Some people just are always negative and see miserable in life. Once again thank you for your comment and watching ☺
I have a GFI Breaker in sub panel connected to 3 bathroom CFGI 2 reg. receptacles garage one outdoor porch receptacle . I am getting power back on black wire connected to GFI Breaker in Subpanel when I have disconnected black wire from GFCI Breaker. and some one wired CGFI receptacles bathrooms hot on neutral side snd neutral on hot side Bath CGFI trips ehen tested
Okay, this is a bit confusing because there are some tests left out of this video (like testing the plug side while power is reaching the lug side of the brown CFGI or "child receptacle"). First of all, let's assign some names to the GFCI's in question. We'll refer to the first GFCI (white/off white) as the "parent" and the second (brown), third, fourth, ect... GFCI's as the child/ren. - outlets hooked up in series (connected to the bottom lugs of the GFCI outlet).
To simplify this, do not/never hook up GFCI's in series. Only connect them in parallel as if they are independent from other GFCI's on the same circuit. Voltage drop from one GFCI/GFI to another will prevent children from resetting. You only need one CGFI for child outlets ran in "Series" (using the bottom lugs on the parent GFCI to connect child outlets - being mindful of how many outlets you can run on one circuit by code).
GFCI should be able to trip with a short (grounded circuit) upstream and downstream, which trips the auto-shutoff feature of the receptacle/s (all the GFCIs on the same circuit should trip). The confusing part is that nowhere in the video does it show a reset of the child (brown) GFCI after the parent was tripped (indicating a voltage drop preventing the child GFCI from resetting or it wasn't manually reset until later, which we did not see), resetting the child GFCI should correct the power-flow to the plug-side/s of the all the children receptacles.
So, as elementary as the GFCI function is, as long as there is power fed through the receptacle both the parent GFCI and theoretically the series GFCI receptacles have been manually reset, the power should flow through to the plug side of the parent and child/ren GFCI's (unless there isn't enough power to the GFCI in order to reset it/them). Problem again is, there's a voltage drop that keeps child CFGI's from resetting.
The point is,, you do not need multiple GFCI's as long as you connect standard outlets in series to the parent GFCI outlet using the first method demonstrated in this video. It is not recommended to use this method to series GFCI's outlets (if it happened to work at all) because when one GFCI trips, they all should respectively trip and making it difficult to isolate where a short might be occurring (which will leave you and even a professional electrician with the proverbial head-scratch wondering why someone would subject themselves or anyone to that mess).
It is wiser to choose whether or not to provide direct power (wiring in parallel to each receptacle, isolating GFCIs and with or without child outlets) or simply installing one GFCI that controls all following child outlets in series (connected to the bottom lugs of the GFCI). - Do not add GFCI's in series, meaning a parent GFCI controlling GFCI/s downstream, that's just being a jerk and causing you the headache of having to reset all dependent GFCI's, if they work at all, in the event one becomes tripped. Rely on one GFCI to control multiple child outlets or provide direct power to each GFCI independently on the same circuit.
Wow that's an awesome comment thank you for writing this. Have a great day ☺
In order to run a "series", couldn't you just figure out the formula-for-resistance-loss for every "child" outlet, then check the specs on the gfci for the required ohms? (I'm thinking one or two "child" outlets would operate properly but that's purely a common-sense guess.)
@@jban4457 Problem is the unpredictability of load.
This is a great comment and far better than the video.
What's really a kicker is to "map" a circuit correctly, including light fixtures.
@@jban4457 the use of "series" and "parallel" with gfci's can be confusing.
Gfci's simply check for a current imbalance and trip.
We connect up 120vac to the GFCI input (line) and it protects that outlet. There are terminals (load) to allow the GFCI to essentially be the protected power source for recepticles connected down stream, giving them GFCI protection.
Running power through the GFCI like that can been refered to as "series" because power runs through it, however, it passes power through like a breaker (120vac) to the parallel connected down stream recepticles.
If you need GFCI protection in two spots, you can "T" tap or pigtail or parallel connect two gfci's On the (line) side to have GFCI protection and a GFCI in each location.
Gfci's do not play well with one another when one feeds the other.
BLUF: Multiple GFCI receptacles on the same circuit must be wired electrically in parallel vs serially. Great 👍 hands on demonstration
I have an old house that has both bathroom wall outlets on the same circuit. I changed out both today with GFCI outlets and spent several hours trying to figure out why the second one would not work. Stumbled across this video and resolved the problem in a minute. Thanks for the video. It was a big help.
Awesome so glad that you found my video. I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
You wasted time and money. A circuit only needs one GFCI and it should be on the receptacle closest to the breaker panel. The GFCI installed this way protects all outlets downstream.
That's great in a perfect world, most homes are not wired like they should be
Greetings, Sir!
I think I have the answer to your question as to "why" this works (correct me if I am wrong). We know that an A/C circuit is a parallel circuit. SO, in order to make the 2nd GFCI independent of the first one, we have to wire the UNgrounded Conductors "in parallel with" the TRUE source (the circuit breaker).
By wiring the ungrounded conductors in parallel with the BREAKER, we allow current to flow to each receptacle at all times INDEPENDENTLY OF the upstream GFCI. I think this would be more evident into the viewers if you had used a pigtail, because it would show that the current is "dropped off" at the 1st GFCI receptacle AND it continues to the 2nd one simultaneously.
This reminds me: I need to make this correction on my own house tomorrow from when I was an apprentice. Thank you for your excellent videos! If someone already commented on this, I apologize!
I can’t express my gratitude enough! This was driving me crazy…I have one gfci line running to 2 bathrooms and I couldn’t get the new outlets to work in the second bathroom!
Problem solved! 😅🙏
Awesome!! Glad that this helped you. Have a great day ☺
Thank you. Home inspector said I had to put a GFCI on the outside [under porch] but no one realized it was daisy chained from the GFCI in the kitchen. Was having this very problem and this just fixed it.
Nice catch and discovery! May I make a suggestion that you label the outlet/receptacle that is outside and under the porch saying that it is GFI/GFCI current protected. Most GFI/GFCI have several small peel off and use labels included in the packet/box the GFI/GFCI comes in that are designed for this. All outlets/receptacles that are downstream, connected to the "load" side of the GFI/GFCI should be labeled as GFI/GFCI protected.
The reason I want to do this is, I have two sump pumps in my yard that I want to run off of one 20 amp circuit with a regular breaker. I want the sump pumps independent of each other so if one trips their GFCI outlet it won't shut down the other sump pump when there is no problem with that pump. Thanks for posting this and explaining. I'll be wiring them so they are in parallel with each having their own ground, neutral and hot.
Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I did the same, wired in parallel so both the gfci outlets are independent.
I’m a third year apprentice and even this video made more sense then some of these electricians on this job site !! Thanks 🤙
Awesome glad to hear that this helped you. Sometimes people tend to over complicate things. Have a great day ☺
Thanks for this video. I’m a DIY-er getting ready to install several receptacles around my outdoor patio, so will have several GFCIs on one circuit. Basically, looks like pigtailing them / wiring in parallel is the only way to go.
I agree. Or you can put in regular receps and come off the load side. All depends on what you want to spend and the look your aiming for
I really liked your explanation. I needed this because I have to change out a regular receptacle to a a GFI on the other side of our kitchen sink. So, in other words there will be two GFI breakers on each side of the kitchen sink for safety sake. Keep up the good work!!
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
that is absolutely correct. I found that out the hard way when I was installing these in my kitchen renovation.
Good video Brother. Just retired out of IBEW Local 130. I can’t explain it either but you are correct, it doesn’t work if you use the load side to feed another GFCI.
Amen and congratulations on your retirement.. I can't wait
Thanks. I am doing my own basement and I had to put 3 gfci in the kitchen counter and I was having the same issue. I did it they way u showed in this vedio it worked. Thank.
Awesome thanks for watching and commenting
Thank you thank you for this video! I had it wired right but ended up with no bathroom fans, lights or outlet juice in two bathrooms. Made no sense until I finally found this gem advice, It worked! Now if I can just get the broken bottom screw out of the box housing, it'll look nice too. :)
Glad to hear that this helped you ☺
Lol, I have been going at it for 2 days on an outdoor project, powering an outdoor kitchen and outlet in the garden which we think should be gfi. This vid will allow me to redeem myself
Definitely outdoors gfci.
I like your video/s and I know you're trying to help people. Let me also say that I'm not disagreeing with you, esp since I've seen your theory of wiring multiple GFCIs on 1 circuit used on other websites/searches. Only problem I have (which might be where a lot of people get confused) is if you look at the instructions that come in the box of a new GFCI, there's a diagram showing the correct way (or the manufacturers suggested way) to wire multiple GCFIs to 1 circuit is to take feed wires from breaker (panel) to line side of 1st GFCI, connect load (branch circuit/downstream) wires to load side of 1st GFCI, then connect those wires to line side of 2nd GFCI and repeat that process for however many GFCIs you are installing on that circuit. In other words go line to load, line to load, line to load etc. I have pictures of instructions from a brand new Eaton GFCI that illustrate this, however I can't add photos to this comment (or at least I can't figure out how to add the photos). Not sure where this leaves us, but I wanted to point out what the manufacturer (in my case Easton) suggests as to the correct way to wire multiple GFCIs on 1 circuit.
Yep. Nothing wrong with I always say follow the manufacturer diagram. That just keeps it alot more simple for some. Great comment. Have a great day ☺
Thanks buddy, I’m rewiring a old house and I’m keeping your videos handy. A big thumbs up 👍
I appreciate it good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
worked for me too thanks! - was going from existing GFCI outside my house, running power to an outside GFCI on a shed. seemed valuable to have both outside plugs as GFCI
After scratch my head for an hour and wiring it the wrong way, I watch your video and problem solved. Thank you for the mock up walk through.
So glad to hear this thanks for watching and commenting.
Why did you put multiple GFCIs on a single circuit?
@@actionjksn no particular safety reason. I just bought two…..Legrand radiant Night Light, Self-Test GFCI Outlets, Safe for Kids, Tamper Resistant, Brushed Nickel, 15 Amp, 1597NTLTRNICC4 on Amazon because I like the metal look. Afterwards I needed this video to figure out how to wire one GFI to another.
I've replaced many kitchen GFCIs, just using the existing wire method they used ( Line in load out) and have never had a problem. Tested all and theu all worked corr8
You are an excellent instructor. I've done this several years ago. It always worked fine so I feel confident. Although I'm going to take off the cover tomorrow and recheck it lol. It's in metal box and mounted on the block wall.
I appreciate your kind words. Thanks for the comment and watching ☺
Or you can wire the neutrals together and the hots. Then pig tail off of them to the first gfci
Thank you! This is a good explanation and tutorial.
This is long and about crazy electrical work in Mexico. Read on if you want to laugh and be frightened at the same time.
I’m a gringo living in an apartment in Mexico. I don’t even know where to begin! In the U.S., where we have codes and shit, I was able to troubleshoot and repair electrical issues, confident that there was a basic logic based on county and national building codes. I was even able to add new circuits/circuit breakers when I needed a separate circuit for the computer room or when I set up a 220 circuit for welding.
The building is between 15 and 20 years old, built by my landlord and one of his sons. I’ve been living here for nearly 10 years. It’s 2Br/1 bath/kitchen/living room, and a rooftop patio. The building is 2 second floor apartments and one commercial space on the first floor. I believe that the landlord and the son did the electrical themselves or didn’t hire a competent electrician. Also, as is common, the electrical service is split between the two apartments-meaning that each apartment gets one of the phases at our meters. My neighbor gets 120v of one hot leg, and I get the other 120. There is a single 30 amp breaker at my service panel!! All the outlets and overhead lighting are fed from a single 30 amp breaker!
The house is brick construction and the wiring is buried in the walls. I’m not entirely sure if everything is wired in series or if it’s branched. If branched, the first splice is buried somewhere in the walls. Am I making sense?
Also, there was no ground. One of the first things I did was to drill a hole in the foundation and hammer a 4’ copper pole into the ground. (My service panel is by the front door on the first floor.) This is so I could add two new grounded outlets to the living room for the TV and computer. I added new wire (romex 12 gauge) from the breaker-basically another splice, but at the breaker/service panel. Yeah, I know, not kosher! In the U.S., I would have added a new breaker at the panel. Here, there is no room for a second breaker on the panel. I guess at some point I might upgrade the panel or even upgrade the service to 100 amps. I hesitate because this is a rental, but I’ve been here 10 years.
I’m doing a kitchen remodel and I want to replace the the outlet by the sink with a GFCI. The grounding issue is complicated. Here’s what I’ve done: the water pipes were not grounded as they’re fed from a big water tank on the roof. I’ve run a ground wire from the copper grounding pole to the water pipes. Under the kitchen sink I’ve attached a ground wire. It’s currently attached to the previous outlet (the wire is surface mounted in a plastic cable channel). I plan to add more outlets upstream.
I know full well that what Im doing would not be allowed by the NEC in the U.S. I’m just trying to make my apartment safer, without going to the expense of completely redoing the electrical. Maybe I should move, but $186/month is strong motivation to stay. The plan is to do a little bit to improve the situation each month.
Oh, and I haven’t even mentioned the situation with the back bedroom. It shouldn’t be too hard to solve when I get around to it: there is a open neutral somewhere. I just use the room for storage anyway. One ceiling light and one outlet function properly. But I also dread opening a can of worms and discovering the problem is more complicated than I hoped. Anyway, that’s my ongoing crazy Mexican wiring story. Also, I think this experience has cured me of my libertarian tendencies.
Wow that is alot of problems. Good for you though to try to make it safer. I understand that rent is super low. I have only in my whole electrical career seen first hand one service that was 120volts. I have heard about it before but to actually see it was something else. If you keep upgrading I'd tell him to make sure he takes it off the rent. Good luck 🤞
Wait till you see conduit made from garden hose
@@busterhikney6936 Wait, that's not legal/smart/safe?? 🤣
Some hair dryers have a GFCI built into the cord. WHen I plug a hair dryer like that into a wall-mounted GFCI, it works fine. This means (at least in this case) that there is no problem with putting GFCIs in series. Is there something unique about the case I describe here that allows GFCIs to be wired in series?
Thank - you, solved a problem that has been driving me crazy for months
Old this helped a lot I was stuck and this saved my brain from crashing
Awesome glad to hear that this helped you out. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
well I'm glad I accidentally run across this video. I recently made a few pigtail GFCI boxes to use on my string of drop cords on the job site so that I don't have to deal with running all the way back to the house. also many customers don't have a GFCI outlet outside their house so when it trips I have no power until I catch them at home in the evening. it really sucks when they are out of town. Anyway, I did it the wrong way and kept running back and forth chasing tripped outlets forever. I couldn't understand what was happening. THANKS
Awesome and it's my pleasure. I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
We are adding an outdoor GFCI outlet off a line in the kitchen that already has 1 GFCI outlet protecting 3 standard outlets. How do you connect/wire a new GFCI outlet to a reg outlet? The line-load method is causing the new one to trip immediately. Thank you for the education!
ua-cam.com/video/Fe9hwE8dN_k/v-deo.html this may help
The previous owner of my house wired up multiple GFCI outlets in series/chains in this house. I think the reason mine work and yours didn't is because mine are ungrounded.
It's always fun when the 3rd or 4th receptacle doesn't have power and I have to check every one from the panel to the problem outlet to see which one tripped.
This is my scenario as well.
I’m brand new at all this but I’m eager and want to be great at it thank u for your video ! My question is when putting a gfci in what can u do wrong that your other outlets won’t be protected
Wiring them only on the line side will not protect the downstream ones
Run a few regular outlets from your one gfi. Note, the gfi is the first outlet on the circuit, use them in bathroom, kitchen, basement, garage and out door outlets or use ark and combo circuit breakers (new code).
Yep exactly thanks for watching and commenting ☺
My 1950 house does not have a third wire ground (this was not required until the mid 60's). The kitchen has 6 outlets on a 20 amp circuit. When I moved in I replaced them all with 20 amp, 3 prong outlets, with the first outlet a GFCI feeding them. I had never put a GFI in before but I saw the LINE and LOAD terminals stamped on the back and correctly connected them. But if you plug in a GFI tester downstream, the test button does not work. However a dryer plugged in the 1st downstream outlet had a ground fault and it did detect it and tripped (my brother found it and fixed it). Out in the garage I installed a 20 amp GFI and six downstream outlets. Of course this was wired to current code with 2 wire with ground Romex. I plugged in the tester in the last outlet pressed the button and immediately heard a loud click some 30 feet away, the circuit was dead.
Thanks. Great video. How close can you install a GFCI PLUG to a shower or a sink in the bathroom.
?
thanks for this video man! You confirmed what I was thinking.. now I'm good to go and didn't burn down my house!
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Your video pulled me out of a jamb. Fixed my problem.
Awesome thanks for letting me know. I appreciate your comment and watching
Great video! I'm currently rewiring my kitchen, gonna have (I know, I know) 3 GFIs on a 20 amp circuit. There will be no other load on that circuit, just multiple outlet options, house was built before electricity. Two will be joined in a junction box and the third will tail off the last GFI, now I know how to do it without getting confused. Thanks!
Nothing wrong with that many gfcis it's all preference. I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
I experienced the exact same issue and I was completely stumped. I took everything apart and double checked everything again. Same exact issue. I used a screwdriver and depressed the reset on both GFCI until I heard a loud "CLICK". The first way, the wrong way actually works. You just need to reset both GFCI.
You're not supposed to put multiple GFCIs on one circuit, you put one single GFCI on the first one in the series and then it will protect all of the other outlets. That is nothing but a big waste of money putting multiples on one circuit.
with the "wrong" way, if the parent one trips so will the second or third etc. I have a parent GFCI in a bathroom inside a rental studio and three other receptacles downstream off that GFCI. So if it trips in the rental bathroom all the other ones go to. The other ones are in a second studio or outside plugs. If the parent one trips, my second rental has no power in the kitchen and I have to get permission from the renter to go inside and fix it, which can take hours. So I am changing the wiring on the parent receptacle the "right" way, so each GFCI is independent from the others. hope that makes sense.
'
@@actionjksn unless you want them to work indepently, like if one is in unit and another is in a second unit
It does good luck and it will help out alot
Have a outdoor lamp post, front porch and back deck that I want on the same circuit. The all in one outdoor in use covers from the big box store already come with the GFCI so I am using both. soooooo. Outside lamp post runs to front porch GFCI and gets connected to load. The front porch and back deck both go to line yea? I know its dumb but its a visual thing for a future homeowner to see the GFCI versus guessing
You know this guy legit when he got a Union shirt on 🤘😎representingggg 😎
That's correct 😂 😂.. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺️
Question: what if the breaker pan has gfi breaker, does that mean all same leg molex wires stay on line lugs and never load lugs ? Many thanks for your video. When should you use the load lugs of gfi outlets ?
If you have gfci breakers. You won't need gfcis at the receptacle boxes. The only times that you use load is when you are trying to make another recep that is non gfci make it protected by the gfci
I am a 2yr apprentice and recently ran into an issue. A main line from the Box was brought into a GFCI line/load (#1) in a bathroom, hopped over to another GCFI (#2) line/load, up to a light fixture, then over to a single pole switch. Best recommendations of fixing this issue??
There is a valid reason to have multiple GFIs pigtailed on the same circuit. You may wish to have your GFCI protection local to the room. For example, a single circuit can service countertop receptacles in multiple bathrooms. Perhaps you want each bathroom to have its own GFCI receptacle so a trip doesn’t require a person to go to another bathroom to reset the tripped receptacle.
If wiring GFCIs for multiple bathrooms (that are on the same circuit), would all the connected GFCI receptacles (including the initial one closest to the panel and all downstream GFCIs) need to be wired only on their line sides? Does this setup change if there's a standard receptacle somewhere in that circuit?
@@ibizanlove Yes, line side only. Or you can use some 12-3 between the receptacles of the first bathroom to pass current around the GFCI of the first bathroom, or splice at the outlet where the first GFCI will reside, and take power to the second room from there, while using the load side of the first GFCI to protect the rest of the receptacles in that bathroom. Many different ways to do it.
you can install a regular outlet where the second GFCI is, the way you have now, you just can't install a second GFCI through the load terminals, but I think you can pigtail the hot line into the first GFCI, if you want to put a second GFCI.. Does that all make sense?
Great video. Here is my situation. I have a GFI in my garage that protects an outlet on my porch. I added another receptacle in the garage (from a single gang to a double gang), and all seems good. What I would like to do is replace the porch receptacle with a GFI so that if the porch GFI trips the garage GFI will not. Is this possible?
Absolutely...
@ Ok…how do I wire the porch gfi to trip without affecting garage gfi?
This was great! But I’m curious, is it possible to add two GFCIs independent of each other on one circuit, with standard receptacles in between? From example, I have 5 outlets on one circuit in a sunroom. First outlet on the circuit has a GFCI. I want that first GFCI on the chain to protect outlets 2, 3, and 4 downstream of the first/initial GFCI. The last outlet on the circuit is an outside outlet. I have a waterproof covering on the outlet, but on the chance that the outside outlet gets tripped, I wouldn’t want the other outlets upstream of the 5th/outside outside to also shut off. (My router is plugged in on the first of the chain)
How would I go about keeping the GFCI on the first receptacle of the circuit to then protect outlets 2-4, while also ending the chain with a GFCI that would be essentially separated from being protected/protecting outlets 1-4? My goal is to have the first GFCI protecting outlets 2-4, and to have the outside/5th receptacle only trip and shut off itself if it has an issue.
You would have to run a dedicated line off they gfci first in line, off the line side to your outdoor gfci.
Good question. My house is 1986 built. there is a GFI inthe bathroom and I am adding an outdoor outlet & coode says I need a GFI. What a headache
Definitely for safety purposes
Definitely good to know. Doubt I will ever need to put 2 GFIs on the same circuit but great knowledge to have for future reference.
Thanks for the comment and watching ☺
I have this setup. The house I bought has a GFCI on an outside outlet and it ties in to another GFCI in my bathroom. Would you recommend that I just replace the outside receptacle with a non-GFCI, outdoor rated receptacle? Or, if you suggest that I keep them both how can I tell which one is the main one to connect this way?
My opinion is the keep it the way it is that way if you're outside and it trips you don't have to go all the way inside just to reset the GFI especially if you're on an extension cord and you have to put it down whatever you're doing and then walk all the way in the house after a while it could become very annoying. I'd keep it exactly the way it is
@WhynotDIY
Hello, I have an old house and from research it looks like I can "upgrade" two pronged outlets to three pronged outlets using a GFCI outlet. From what I can tell, it is "safer" to do it this way.
Here is my question: I have 4 wires in each box, 2 black (hot), and two white (neutral). The first GFCI install went off without a hitch, but the next 3 (they desperately needed replaced) would not reset after tripping. **Are your instructions in video still applicable if my house is wired the I mentioned above?**
Are they all wired to the line side?
Hi friend, thanks for this video but I have a question, I did the wrong way like you show in the video but I still have power on both gfci. I want to show you how I have everything connected. From the breaker I have the 1st gfci, then 2nd gfci then three regular outlets. On one of those regular outlets , my refrigerator is plugged. Every gfci and regular outlets have power but this is the problem- after 3to 4 hours the first gfci triggers and shut down all please can you help me with this problem? Thanks
First of all how do you have the gfcis wired? Then we can try to go on from here
Very useful. Solved my problem. You are a good man!
Good video , even with basic electrical knowledge it makes no sense why they can’t daisy chain power. But now I’m a believer.
Thank you for this. It makes perfect sense if you understand LINE & LOAD. But I understand the confusion.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I appreciate ur answer to my last question. I have another question that is unrelated to the video. I’m working on a house with old cloth wiring. Do u know how to figure what size the wire is? The fuse on the circuit I’m working is 20 amp but the receptacles are mostly 15 amp which I know is wrong and maybe a 20 amp receptacle or two mixed in there. That’s where my confusion is coming from. I can’t tell if the fuse is wrong or the receptacles. So I figured the wiring size will tell me what the circuit is supposed to be. But not sure cus it’s old wiring.
So if it's 14 gauge wire you definitely cannot put a 20 amp receptacle on there. But if it's 12 gauge wire you can put 15 amperceptacles on there or 20s I have a video on that and I'll link it right here so you can watch it.ua-cam.com/video/5wJOydWK8Ws/v-deo.htmlsi=q4AwaCk2_YQvAS_w
Well, I'm hoping to learn how to fix an issue I have. My sense at the 2:44 mark is that I can't simply swap in a 2nd GFCI close things up and move on. I have 2 outlets in the bathroom, 1 is a GFCI (it's open ground) and right next to the tub I have a non-GFCI (it's also open ground).
I recently replaced several GFCI receptacles for a friend and found three GFCI's wired just as you described. Since all three were on the backsplash behind the sink, I questioned why they would not just used two regular receptacles wired through the load side of a single GFCI. I assume the only reason would be if one trips the others may still stay 'alive'. Is there any other reason I'm not seeing?
That's probably exactly why. Alot of people like to have it match so that may be why they did it. I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
Hello, Could you add 2 120v outlets from a 240v outlet circuit? Using one hot wire from each hot from the 2 hots 240v? Thanks
If you do you will have to share nuetrals and install a double pole beaker
Thank you so much!!
I had this issue 2 weeks ago, I was so embarrassed that I didn't make it work.,
Now I was blaming a 30am braker feeding a couple of 15 amps receptacles.,
So question?
Why would someone use a 30 am kind of like a double braker?
Is ok?
Absolutely not ok to do that. Most people do that because that cannot find what they need. Was it a single pole breaker?
@@MountaineerOutdoors
It was a fat one, I'm guessing it was double.
Thank you sir!
Well by code if you share a nuetral you have to have a double pole. But still if it's a 12 Guage wire it's only for 20 amp receptacle or more than one 15 amp. My guess is that it's sharing a nuetral
I have a situation where I have 14 dock slips divided into 2 GFCI Breakers, ,However the GFCI breaker is located about 100 feet from the docks and every time someone leaves an extension cord plugged in and there is any moisture in the air the GFCI breaker trips leaving at least half of the dock without electric. I was wondering if I could replace the GFCI breakers with a normal breaker and wire in separate GFCI outlets so that only the person that is causing the problem would be without electric until they reset their GFCI outlet. This explained how this can be done .
I have a new circuit for an outdoor patio extension. Hot coming into a double gang box with two GFCI receptacles. Then a third GFCI at a grill station. All are in outdoor approved boxes. I have them wired via your "wrong" method but am confused because the sticker on the load terminals say to only remove if feeding additional GFCIs, which I am. Currently none of the three GFCIs will reset with the breaker on. I originally had the first box wired via the pigtail method to the line terminal on receptable 1, then load on receptable 1 feeding line on receptacle 2, then load on receptable 2 feeding line on receptacle 3. The breaker would trip instantly at the panel every time. These 3 receptacles are the only 3 on this circuit. I am going to try your "correct" method. But, my gut also is telling my that I may a ground wire coming in contact with a neutral or hot once I jam everything back into the double gang box as it is super tight.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
That's what it sounds like to me. You have to use the line on every gfci. And make sure that nothing is touching the box nuetral. Let me know if you fixed it
Does that same thing happen when you wire other AFCI outlets downstream/Load from an existing AFCI outlet? I saw a vid that this home inspector did about this same topic and in the example he had 4 GFCI outlets wired downstream from the load terminal of the first GFCI outlet on the circuit. To get all of them back online you have to reset them in the order they are beginning with the first GFCI from the breaker.
Great question. I will be completely honest with you. I have never ever installed a arc fault receptacle ever so I cannot answer this correctly.
I know this video is 3 years old but I thought I would explain what is happening here.
GFCI's When they see a fault they trip very fast, like within a few milliseconds.
In the first case with the two GFCI's wired together both see the fault and trip at the same time.
To get both of the outlets in the first example working correctly you would have to reset both GFCI's.
In the second example the two GFCI's are wired independent of each other so only one GFCI will see the fault and trip.
Ok so I want to tap into an existing GFCI to a new one for a small above ground pool motor ( 11 amps)
Going to use a 20 amp gfci. Going to put both grounds connected with a ground connector,neutrals (white) into silver holes. Hot (black) into bronze colored hole on other side.
Going to the new gfci ground to ground hole, white ( silver hole) black to hot side on top? Or does it go to bottom load?
If you are adding another gfci for a total of 2 then come off of the line side.
After running a line in a GFCI and running a load out to a standard receptacle, do you pigtail other receptacles after that or utilize all 4 screws?
So you can do it how you want... Me I would pig tail them
I would say depends on your ahj. I don't find a difference using screw terms over pigtailing
Either are legal. I prefer pigtailing. Failure of one recepticle will only stop that one from working. If you use the device as a conductor, its failure stops all the others from working.....think string of christmas lights.
@@keithharrington4595 you ever look at how screw terms are bridged its not like a thin filament as a bulb they are bridged by like no 6 copper wire lol
@@wizard3z868 my experience tells me that many people hook them up as you suggest, it is legal. I have spent hours hunting through houses to find "the one" that hand a high resistance connection ,(even just the plug connection) that overheated and caused 5 or 6 more to stop working.
Mountaineer's video on replacing GFI was extremely useful and clear! Even to a 74 year young gal like me. Thank you!
My pleasure and so glad that this helped you ☺
correct me if i'm wrong here. wiring multiple gfci's the "correct" way on the load side gives you protection just at that single outlet without tripping any of the other gfci's on the same circuit. am i thinking right here?
Exactly
Did you try to reset both GCFI outlets when connected in serial? Another UA-camr showed it is possible to have multiple GCFIs connected but highly confusing because the user has to figure out where the fault originated and reset all subsequent connections. Thus not code.
Are you allowed to run a 12/3 cable from the breaker to GFCI (1) then tie one of the hot wires from the 12/3 to the line terminal on GFCI(1) then tie the other hot wire to the hot wire of a 12/2 cable that links (but not tied to load) GFCI1 and GFCI2 ? I guess what Im asking is are you allowed to mix different cable types like that or does NEC make you use the same cable type for that entire circuit?
You can tie them like you are saying. Be careful sharing nuetrals on one nuetral with gfcis because chances of it working are not good. Just make sure you protect it with the correct over current device (breaker)
I wanted it for my trailor running a space heater. Gfci goes to 6 outlets on a 15 Amp breaker. But half way through I wanted to add another gfci so the Heater only trips the last 3 that I don't care about and not all of them. This didn't help for my answer much
Are you saying that you cannot have any wires connected to the load side of the first/parent GFCI outlet?
I have a problem. One GFCI outltet running garage door openers, outside landscape lighting, and two curb lights at the end of my driveway. Openers and landscape lighting is fine, but there is something shorting out at the driveway lights that I cannot find (about a 100 ft, run buried cable). When it rains heavily, and only then, the GFCI trips takind down everything. If I disconnect power from driveway lights, everything is fine. So in my mind I thought I would use two GFCI outlets, but thought of the first one having the garage openers and landscape lighting connected to the load of the parent GFCI outlets, and connecting only the driveway lights to the load side of the second/child GFCI such that in my mind I still would have openers and landscape lights running if driveway lights short out somewhere and hopefully trip only the child GFCI. I have the impression that this approach will not work, correct? Cannot seem to fix this problem.
This is great info, but what about if it's an old house and there's no ground on any outlet? Would I still put the downstream gfci on the line of the upstream gfci? I already have 3 gfci outlets in the wrong way but as soon as I put the 4th one on it trips and I cant find the issue afterwards?
Yes. If you are using GFCI outlets because the house has no ground on any outlet and are using the GFCI for safety due to lack of ground, you have to make sure to use the second method where all wires are hooked on the line side. If you only want one set of wires going to each outlet then pigtail the incoming wire, the outgoing wire and a third wire that will connect to the outlet.
The answer you gave at first was wrong even if you included that they all had to be connected to the line side.
1. In dwelling units, you can put as many on one circuit as you want. Dwellings are required to have a certain number of circuits based on square footages. And minimum spacing of 6’ from openings and 12’ center to center. Strictly by NEC, you can put one every 6” along your walls and connect them to the correct number of circuits.
2. Non dwelling occupancies. Receptacles are to be considered as 180 watts or 1.5 amperes per yoke of the receptacles, and are also considered non continuous load. So, 20 amp 120 volt circuit can have 13 receptacles maximum, and 15 amp circuit can have 10. 20/1.5=13.3. 15/1.5=10.
I was wondering how far I'd have to scroll to see this.... 😂...
No harm meant...
Oh I completely understand. I'm pretty thick skinned. I appreciate you watching and commenting for sure. Have a great upcoming labor day
@@MountaineerOutdoors You to my friend...
I am going to replace 3 GFI outlets in my primary bathroom, mainly because they are 20 years old. 2 outlets have reset buttons, but one doesn’t. The outlet that doesn’t have a reset button does have a GFCI sticker on it. So, I guess there are GFI outlets that don’t require reset buttons?
Sounds to me like it's being protected by one of the other gfcis
Lol my House 1989 Build is so poorly wired the only 2 Gfci in my 2 story home is one in garage and one in kitchen..the kitchen was 15A on 20a circuit and wasn't even working,builder did it all backstabbed every outlet and switch,ground wires plastered instead of connected, i pray it doesn't burn down till we have the money for a pro to run through the whole system.Great explaining on wiring .
Yea I would definitely get this looked into as soon as you can. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting ☺
@@MountaineerOutdoors Ya its matter of what the tax return will cover this year,just to change the 7 outlets in my kitchen had to turn off 5 breakers lol
Wow that's weird
@@MountaineerOutdoors ya one outlet on a wall was tied into the living room breaker,one outlet the one the big lights plug into the ceiling was another,the fridge stove and 2 outlet next to stove another,the Gfci another,and of course Dishwasher and disposal on a dedicated 20amp lol To turn off the one outlet in my backyard and the 4 in garage I have to turn off a breaker marked Gfi ,which also my low voltage is tied into I.E. my house number and doorbell lol
I c that makes sense now.
What would happen if you trip and reset the black GFCI? The magic is the electronic of the black one?
Personally I Would Use A Single GFCI (First From Breaker) And Protect Subsequent Standard Receptacles/Outlets From There. Easier And Less Expensive.
Your video was very helpful thank you so much for taking the time to make it. I have regular 15 Amp outlets in my basement with a 20 Amp Circuit breaker and want to switch them to(WR) Weather Resistant 20 Amp GFCI Outlets and found this very helpful. I rent the house I live in "built in 1920" and all the Outlets where old and most of them we lose from the plug area and when I replaced them I noticed all of them were 15 amps. When I checked the circuit breaker box outside the house I seen that all the breakers are 20 amps using 12 Gauge Copper wiring except the Air Conditioning Breakers, those were 2 x 50 Amp Outlets and the main power breaker that shuts everything down is 2 x 100 Amp Breakers. I will definitely buy these off your affiliated link. It's the least I can do to support the channel. Thanks again for help me as a DWYER, my landlords don't fix anything so I do all the work my self. 🙏🙇♂️
That sucks about your landlord. I appreciate you watching and commenting and supporting my channel. I hope everything gets fixed for you. Take care and good luck
Read those instruction for those gfci's carefully. They do not play well together when one feeds another.
You can have one GFCI feed several or use pigtails to attach power to the "line side".
It's totally acceptable to use 15 amp duplex receptacles or gfci's on a 20 amp circuit. You shouldn't use 20 amp receptacles on a 15 amp circuit.
I thought you could have all your receptacles GFCI, but the power in is connected to the line side of each of them. I don't like having "hidden" GFCIs where a bunch of circuits are connected to the load side of a GFCI, but it's not obvious when that GFCI trips.
Thanks. This was very helpful. Exactly what I needed
The black GFCI is not tripped right? This video doesn't make sense to me... if you connect the load side of the white receptacle to the line side of the black receptacle I don't see why it should matter where the line came from (the breaker or another GFCI)
Yeah, I think he botched the explanation a bit. The second GFCI *will* work as wired initially, but you'd have to reset it after resetting the first one. The reason you wouldn't want it wired that way is - imagine if you have 4 or 5 GFCI outlets on that circuit, when one trips, you'd have to reset it and then ALL the other ones. Would be a real pain in the neck. Best practice is to wire how he shows it in the end (preferably with a pig tail) and put GFCIs for all outlets near water sources.
@@jetlaggedchef6806 Yup that makes a lot more sense. I also wonder whether perhaps it's better to make resetting inconvenient as GFCIs do not spuriously trip, they trip for a reason, which could be the GFCI is bad. Making it inconvenient forces a homeowner to address the issue. It's not like AFCI where nusiance tripping in normal usage is more common
So the outlets above my kitchen counter, …for the ones on the same circuit with eachother, I only need to make sure the fist outlet in the circuit is a gfci receptacle…and the rest of the outlets above the counter following the first one can be all regular outlets??
That is correct
I Want to thank you for your outstanding video instructions on your explanation on circuity! Ive watched many videos on circuity and your instructions helped me understand it and complete my wiring correctly! Thank you very Much!
So glad to hear that. I appreciate you watching and commenting and making these videos is definitely my pleasure. Have a great day ☺
Great video! However, you can wire GFCI outlets in a line-load...line-load...line-load series. I know, because I have successfully done it. Here's the issue with doing it that way. You will lose power to all outlets downstream of the GFCI outlet that trips. However, I like your way better, because if the GFCI outlets are wired in parallel, as you demonstrated, each GFCI outlet has an independent power source, which allows each GFCI outlet to work independently. Bottom Line: listen to this guy and wire your GFCI outlets in parallel, NOT in a line-load...line-load...line-load series configuration. Thank you, Sir, for your expertise!
I agree you can but you shouldn't. I appreciate your comment and watching. Have a great day ☺
As many as you want. The NEC does not restrict the number of outlets on one circuit in residential applications. More outlets means less extension cords, the very thing they never want to be needed in a home.
Exactly
What's the best way to daisy chain 3 standard outlets to a GFCI outlet?
Come off the load side and go on to your receptacles
@@MountaineerOutdoors lol I love your deflection are you a lawyer or politician?
😂 😂
If the national electrical code requires all outlets in bathroom to be gfci and one happens to have mutliple outlets in bathroom then we have to do this ?
Amen line and load
thanks for this, I was connecting 2 sheds so I have 2 GFI's and it wouldn't work. now I know why, I'm gonna go fix it.
Excellent thanks for watching and commenting ☺
If you have a bathroom and you want to add 2 new outlets, do both need to be GFCI? Or can the 1st one be GFCI and the 2nd be a standard outlet?
You can do one gfci and the other regular as long as you protect the regular one from the gfci
Mine work?!? I wired 2 GFCI’s the first “wrong way” and then saw this video after but they both work fine just independently. Should I be concerned & do I need to change it for safety reasons?
No but as you see what could happen if one trips you may need to reset all of them.so no need to change them. Great question and thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Sweet video, question for ya, im ginna wire up my shed and was planning on one GFCI from the panel 3 regular recepts and the end of line being a recept located outside the shed, and was gonna put a GFCI on that, question is, would i hook it up like u just showed ? Bit confused . Will the recpts after the first GFCI be protected? If wired up this way? Thanks in advance....
Only if you out the downstream on load side.
If the 3 regular receptacles are wired to the load side of the GFCI, they are protected. If that's the case, you can then wire the outside receptacle out of any one of the 3 regular outlets or the load side of the GFCI & it will also be protected. I try to never place a GFCI receptacle outdoors. I always try to use a standard receptacle outside which is wired from a GFCI outlet or GFI protected outlet which is inside. You very seldom get a tripped receptacle outside that way. I also NEVER wire in series through a receptacle unless it's a GFCI. I always wire from pigtails.
Wow we have this problem at our marina for about five boats. I’m going to look into this thank you very much.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I replaced 2 working outlets with 2 GFCI 15 amps on a 20a breaker in the kitchen near the sink. Pigtailed them black to line(brass) white to line(silver) to both GFCI and I put a tested on the terminals and get lights on the voltage tester and with a meter 120v but when I plug any thing in, I get nothing. Double checked incoming wires for power and get 120 but nothing is power up when a device is plugged in There are no indicator lights on the GFCI. The reset and test buttons do nothing. I even swapped out for another still nothing.
What should I look for ?
Make sure you put them on the line side of the gfci
I did the same thing with an exterior outlet on our fifth wheel, and I have a GFCI outlet on the outside of our fifth wheel that is connected to the load side of our GFCI in our fifth wheel's bathroom and it works!
hey @mountaineer , my gfi has power on both the hot and the neutral wires.. what did i do wrong because its not working
I'd say if you did that you may need to back track all the way to the breaker
Customer has a prefab greenhouse with a gfci. The whole thing plugs into another gfci on a stand alone breaker. When the greenhouse is plugged into the other gfci, the gfci on the breaker stops working.
Usually I pig tail all receptacles. GFI or not. The only time I dont is off 1st gfi feeding and protecting down stream outlets. Then I use the load side of a gfi. But depending on the manufacturer, Leviton GFIs will protect unlimited devices. Eaton 3-6 devices and Legrand 6-8 devices. (Directly from the manufacturers engineers) Before installing another GFI in the same circuit.
Great information thanks for sharing
Ok, If I want to add 1 GFCI to protect an entire run of 7 additional outdoor receptacles, I would use the load to protect the remaining receptacles? Thanks
@@alicehope9859 use a gif breaker then. Most gfci receptacles won't protect that much. Most munis may restrict how many you can use downstream.
Hey thanks for the vid it did help!! I have a question idk if you or anybody here could help. I'm remodeling my house and had to rewire the whole thing, now I connected the electrical box and everytime I turn a breaker on it doesn't trip it but cuts power off I've been troubleshooting it but I can't seem to find the solution. I have a tester with me and power is on at the poles, all the breakers are off. As soon as I turn any breaker on the power to the the box shuts off. When I turn the breakers off the power at the poles turn back on
Do you have it hooked up right? I would have to see a picture of your box
Nice video man. Takes some courage to put one's livelihood out there for a zillion other arm chair electricians to pick apart. Well done. Just a thought, not a critique... it would have been beneficial, I think, to show a "test/reset" cycle of the secondary outlet. Gfi outlet replacement, although relatively standard fare for a working electrician, can be trickier than people give it credit for. A simple, yet very worthy topic.
I appreciate your comment and watching. I agree with you on this whole comment. I have had some pretty interesting talks with so called electricians who try to throw code at me and telling me that I am wrong. Some people just are always negative and see miserable in life. Once again thank you for your comment and watching ☺
Dropping by to say this video helped me tremendously! Thanks
That's awesome so glad that this helped you ☺
I have a GFI Breaker in sub panel connected to 3 bathroom CFGI 2 reg. receptacles garage one outdoor porch receptacle . I am getting power back on black wire connected to GFI Breaker in Subpanel when I have disconnected black wire from GFCI Breaker. and some one wired CGFI receptacles bathrooms hot on neutral side snd neutral on hot side Bath CGFI trips ehen tested
Sounds like it's being fed by 2 breakers