I just listed all of my power tools (except my lathe) for sale. I'm tired of all the noise and dust and coughing. I have a small shop 167 sq.ft. crowded with power tools, big with hand tools. Great info for the beginninger as myself.
@@mikkelkirketerp4884 40sqft myself, in a tapered triangle-like shed for me. Traded my table saw for a bandsaw and my mitre saw for a drill press. Both take up one corner and then its hand tools for the rest!
Back when I started woodworking I tried to rip a 400mm wide oak board like this using a fairly blunt saw. You'd be surprised how far I got through it, a real example of determination over common sense!
I always appreciate a reminder, as I sometimes get a bit lazy. by the way, the lighting in these latest videos is fantastic. it makes everything look so vibrant and sharp.
Thank you Paul! Really like all your videos and you have rekindled my interest in woodworking! Picking up in retirement what I last did in wood shop in school as a teen thanks to you! You even look a bit like my wood shop teacher did almost half a century ago! Enjoying every bit of my new woodworking hobby and your lessons on youtube!
I've become more convinced over the years that one must have a basic set of hand tools on hand, particularly outside the shop. They're light and take up little space but can bail you out when power tools are... powerless. How many folks would immediately think "table saw" for this cut? But what if you don't have a saw on site? At one point I simply would've been dead in the water until I got to a table saw. With a couple of hand saws, a couple of hand planes, etc. it's wonderful to simply keep working with skills that were almost forgotten...almost.
I'd have never thought table saw for this cut, bandsaw, yes. I've been following Paul since he came out with the Artisan book & dvd's years ago and I find myself using power tools less than ever, except for resawing stock. I need to embrace that skill.
NGL, I'd still go for a table saw/band saw for this, I have always just plain sucked at sawing, even for something as small as a tennon I'd end up somehow angling the saw at an odd angle.
Might be useful to mention that a lot of rippingby hand is starting square. In fact, starting at all. If you start crooked it will rip crooked no matter what. You/ve been doing this forty years. For those of us who haven't, it might be worth the trouble to make up a little square to guide the ripsaw. I may not have the best eyes in the universe, but I found the square really helped.
I learnt a trick from Steve Hay the Aussie woodworker on Woodworking Masterclass. It was to use a light spritz of water on your workpiece AND on your wooden vice jaws.It provides a lot of extra friction for holding things .I have used it a lot now and it really works.
it's always so fun to watch your videos because every time I watch your videos I learn something new.simple but amazing thanks again for uploading this video all the best
Great video! A sharp saw is a must, if u want to succeed! I rip a board of 25 in wide, for a guitar project, and it took some time, not to mention it was with a cheap saw that I modified for ripping.
Love the videos as usual. I have noticed that there seems to be less close up camera work than there used to be. For instance when you say take a close up of that Phil, I was hoping to see the grain and cut marks on the wood but the camera wasn't close enough. This was one of the really nice features of your earlier videos and very useful for learning. I noticed the same on the recent door making series and thought I'd bring it to your attention. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Paul, as always your method is my favorite. I often watch UA-cam video for tips, guess who's tips I used :) :). Yours is effective, simple and relaxing more power.
Hi Paul Super video, your method is far better than my old woodwork master taught, you mentioned correcting the direction of the saw - can you do a video about how to do this please. Cheers John
I have to do this with mahogany. Does the principle work for wider cuts of wood. I need to cut/bookmark mahogany that is 9 in wide by 2 inch thick. My bandsaw does not cut that high.
When i learned handsawing, you were suppose to have a rocking motions on the saw, like a boat. The sawblade is often slightly arched, not straight. I think this is so the cutting teeth is allways cutting wood like when you would pair with chisels. When i saw like that, i feel i go alot faster, and with no preassure at all i can get a fast and straight cut. Minimize tearout aswell.
Hello, Paul! As with all your videos, I enjoyed this one very much and learned a great deal. Words cannot express how much I thank you for them. In this video, I saw how you ran the gauge and cut close to the scribed line then surfaced the rough face with the hand plane. This leads me to ask how you would determine that the opposite faces are parallel down the length of both surfaces. Winding sticks would tell me if there is any twist, but how do I guarantee that the faces are parallel throughout? Bob near Elm Mott and HHV
Thank you Paul very much for showing that effective video of ripping the board to the thinner lamellas. But very interesting theme is going along. How to choose the board or timber that we want to rip to lamellas? How to consider it's wood grain - radial or tangential? Cause sometimes I've faced that radial timber couldn't be ripped to lamellas. But such wonderful and beautiful wood could be on radial cut with medullary rays!!! How we can use it on lamellas? Sorry, so much questions, but couldn't find any reliable info about this...
Paul Sellers youre the man! Im beginning to film my progression as a handtool hobbyist woodworker and may or may not turn it into a youtube series. During filming, I'm constantly referencing your various videos and singing your praises. Send me a blown up print of your headshot and I will include in the background during filming kinda of idolizing you the way Chuck Norris has been. ttys?
A short answer while waiting for the video: torquing the handle moves the near side and far side of the cut in the same direction; pushing the handle sideways moves the near and far sides of the cut in opposite directions. Combinations of these can adjust one side and not the other. (Note that by flipping the workpiece every ten strokes, you don't have to worry about the far side drifting and can concentrate on the near side only. Great tip, Paul.) If you are drifting, you are probably doing one, the other, or both of those things, maybe unintentionally, or maybe intending to correct your cutting line but accidentally disturbing it in some other way. It doesn't take much of either to make the cut drift. Practice making a sure, straight hand motion; there is no substitute for practice (repetition) when developing a motor skill like this. I learned it filing metal, but I find it works for sawing wood as well. (It also improves your billiards/pool stroke. Moving your hand in a perfect straight line has many applications.)
Another thing don't over hold the saw if you hold the handle mega tight your wrist tends to not twist that pushes you off. Hold the saw only as tight as you need. :)
takes some pictures of your cuts and we will see if it makes sense but practice is key. if it still isnt there leave it for a while come back to it. fixed my tig welding !
Hello Mr. Sellers and community! im resawing ipe (deckwood) wood which is super dry and hard but the thin pieces keep warping slightly ("u" shape forms on the shorter sides) Anyone have any idea why and what to do? or if its even possible to avoid this warping? thank you for all your teachings
Nice video, Paul, as always - now all I need is Part 2, in which you show how to finish the last few inches of the cut! I always find this bit problematic, as you can't keep the workpiece in the vice and continue the cut in the same direction. Do you take it out of the vice entirely and finish it off just holding the piece in one hand and sawing with the other? Or do you have some natty technique for gripping the almost-completely-sawn piece in the vice in a way that allows the cut to be completed?
P.Sellers made a video about that. Bench dogs aren't used that often, at least I don't use them that often, hard to get a firm grip without flexing your piece when working on small projects. Go for end vice if you really think you will work with bench dogs, assuming that you know what you're doing but I assume that you don't, otherwise you wouldn't ask that question. Then go for a side vice. Good alternative to bench dogs is using a fence, just a thin strip of wood clamped/nailed/whatever to your bench used to plane your pieces against it. Tried it, adopted it.
Yes there is a big difference between the two. View rip teeth as a row of chisels plowing thru the kerf and 'ripping' out chunks of wood...view CC teeth as two rows of knives slicing each side of the kerf and making fine dust in between. CC teeth have a bevel on each side of each tooth ( known as fleem) while rip teeth don't. The number of teeth governs the speed of the cut as well as the smoothness of the finish. As the number per inch gets higher the smoother the cut and the less important rip vs CC. A 15 ppi rip tenon saw will both rip and CC nicely with a fine finish, but a 4.5 ppi rip will make a total mess of the board if used to CC.
ripping is the most frustrating part of my woodworking hobby. I won't touch a table saw but with the cost of a good panel rip saw i might as well buy a 10 inch band saw. I've tried cheaper panel saws but can't cut straight with them and the kerf is much to wide.
I think that's the big problem, are there any here, say at HD, that don't have the hardened teeth? I looked up the saw he is using and they specifically are listed as "resharpenable" I guess I could take a file with me to HD and try them :)
Can't help you there, I'm afraid; I haven't looked at the HD offerings too closely. Instead I went and purchased a $25 japanese pull-saw from amazon, which has the advantage of being two-sided (it has a ripping side and a cross-cutting side). It is impulse hardened, so I can't sharpen it and it won't last me three centuries like a good resharpenable saw would, but as far as I can tell it's plenty good to get me started and I'll get a proper one once this breaks.
The dust chucking off that saw is incredible. You are the wood whisperer.
I just listed all of my power tools (except my lathe) for sale. I'm tired of all the noise and dust and coughing. I have a small shop 167 sq.ft. crowded with power tools, big with hand tools. Great info for the beginninger as myself.
I feel you! I've only got 118sqft though...
Except I will keep my tablesaw and router. Love those tools.
@@mikkelkirketerp4884
Keeping a few tools like a table saw or band saw can allow you to mill wood.
@@mikkelkirketerp4884 40sqft myself, in a tapered triangle-like shed for me. Traded my table saw for a bandsaw and my mitre saw for a drill press.
Both take up one corner and then its hand tools for the rest!
LOL! I have the same. Small room - all hand tools except a small lathe. Learning to use a handsaw is liberating.
The sign of a true craftsman is making things look simple!
Thanks Paul.
cheers
tony
Thank you. Used to rip a one bigger piece of wood for left+right knife handles into 2. Wood store wanted $37 to do this.
Back when I started woodworking I tried to rip a 400mm wide oak board like this using a fairly blunt saw. You'd be surprised how far I got through it, a real example of determination over common sense!
Mr. Paul Sellers / Woodworking Philosophy Lessons: “perfectly adequate, very inexpensive, you get the body exercise”
He is the best...
I always appreciate a reminder, as I sometimes get a bit lazy. by the way, the lighting in these latest videos is fantastic. it makes everything look so vibrant and sharp.
Once again Mister Sellers your generosity of your years of experience are well received and greatly appreciated . Thank you and blessings to you .
Thank you Paul! Really like all your videos and you have rekindled my interest in woodworking! Picking up in retirement what I last did in wood shop in school as a teen thanks to you! You even look a bit like my wood shop teacher did almost half a century ago! Enjoying every bit of my new woodworking hobby and your lessons on youtube!
I'm terrible at cutting straight, you make this look so easy Paul, but there is much to take away from this to help me improve, thank you.
God bless you Paul, you are a great teacher. Thank you for your time and effort
I've become more convinced over the years that one must have a basic set of hand tools on hand, particularly outside the shop. They're light and take up little space but can bail you out when power tools are... powerless. How many folks would immediately think "table saw" for this cut? But what if you don't have a saw on site? At one point I simply would've been dead in the water until I got to a table saw. With a couple of hand saws, a couple of hand planes, etc. it's wonderful to simply keep working with skills that were almost forgotten...almost.
I'd have never thought table saw for this cut, bandsaw, yes. I've been following Paul since he came out with the Artisan book & dvd's years ago and I find myself using power tools less than ever, except for resawing stock. I need to embrace that skill.
NGL, I'd still go for a table saw/band saw for this, I have always just plain sucked at sawing, even for something as small as a tennon I'd end up somehow angling the saw at an odd angle.
I drift with my saw, it is not easy. I am very impressed, thanks Paul, thumbs up!
it's always a pleasure to watch a craftsman at work, thank you Paul
Might be useful to mention that a lot of rippingby hand is starting square. In fact, starting at all. If you start crooked it will rip crooked no matter what. You/ve been doing this forty years. For those of us who haven't, it might be worth the trouble to make up a little square to guide the ripsaw. I may not have the best eyes in the universe, but I found the square really helped.
It should be mandatory to explain a downvote on any of his videos, excellent as always!
Yes that’s bit baffling...or an insight into human behaviour
Very helpful and I learned from you and others to let the saw do the work.
I learnt a trick from Steve Hay the Aussie woodworker on Woodworking Masterclass. It was to use a light spritz of water on your workpiece AND on your wooden vice jaws.It provides a lot of extra friction for holding things .I have used it a lot now and it really works.
it's always so fun to watch your videos because every time I watch your videos I learn something new.simple but amazing thanks again for uploading this video all the best
Always such class in everything you do
Thanks Paul
again, paul sellers the master. love watching and learning
Love it, Paul. I learn every time I watch your videos. Thanks for sharing. Going to my wood shop now!
Great video! A sharp saw is a must, if u want to succeed! I rip a board of 25 in wide, for a guitar project, and it took some time, not to mention it was with a cheap saw that I modified for ripping.
Love the videos as usual. I have noticed that there seems to be less close up camera work than there used to be. For instance when you say take a close up of that Phil, I was hoping to see the grain and cut marks on the wood but the camera wasn't close enough. This was one of the really nice features of your earlier videos and very useful for learning. I noticed the same on the recent door making series and thought I'd bring it to your attention. Keep up the great work.
...very helpful ..wish I'd seen this a year ago!
Inspiring to say the least. The proper saw, good and sharp along with technique.
You make it look very easy, but great tips, thanks.
Thanks for sharing. As always, great, concise explanation and very down-to-earth craftsmanship.
Thanks for another well-presented video on the basics.
Very useful.
Thanks Paul, as always your method is my favorite. I often watch UA-cam video for tips, guess who's tips I used :) :). Yours is effective, simple and relaxing more power.
It's a real pleasure watching you (enjoying your) work! Keep it up!
I enjoy every video. Thank you
I did enjoy every bit of it! Thank you Paul.
Always enjoyable - Thanks Paul Sellers
Hi Paul
Super video, your method is far better than my old woodwork master taught, you mentioned correcting the direction of the saw - can you do a video about how to do this please.
Cheers
John
thank you again for a great demonstration of good woodworking. cheers!
Beautiful :) I just love working with hand tools in wood. It is the most satisfying thign in life.
Your videos kept me sane during covid. I cannot wait to see if I can sharpen my father's saws to sound like yours, so grateful for your free videos.
I have to do this with mahogany. Does the principle work for wider cuts of wood. I need to cut/bookmark mahogany that is 9 in wide by 2 inch thick. My bandsaw does not cut that high.
It does but you need big teeth 3 or 4 tpi. On a deep cut the teeth don't get to see daylight as often and small teeth clog up.
Another great video, Paul.
You all explain it so well....thank you.
When i learned handsawing, you were suppose to have a rocking motions on the saw, like a boat.
The sawblade is often slightly arched, not straight. I think this is so the cutting teeth is allways cutting wood like when you would pair with chisels.
When i saw like that, i feel i go alot faster, and with no preassure at all i can get a fast and straight cut.
Minimize tearout aswell.
Thank you I did enjoy watching it and listening to all your explanations too!
Fantastic lesson sir, thanks for sharing.
Of course I have enjoyed it Paul...as usual 😊 Thank you 👍🏻
So very satisfying!
Hello, Paul!
As with all your videos, I enjoyed this one very much and learned a great deal. Words cannot express how much I thank you for them.
In this video, I saw how you ran the gauge and cut close to the scribed line then surfaced the rough face with the hand plane. This leads me to ask how you would determine that the opposite faces are parallel down the length of both surfaces. Winding sticks would tell me if there is any twist, but how do I guarantee that the faces are parallel throughout?
Bob near Elm Mott and HHV
a magician with a saw as a wand=)
Thank you Paul very much for showing that effective video of ripping the board to the thinner lamellas. But very interesting theme is going along. How to choose the board or timber that we want to rip to lamellas? How to consider it's wood grain - radial or tangential? Cause sometimes I've faced that radial timber couldn't be ripped to lamellas. But such wonderful and beautiful wood could be on radial cut with medullary rays!!! How we can use it on lamellas? Sorry, so much questions, but couldn't find any reliable info about this...
That saw cuts so nicely, I know a lot of that is technique though. I really need to try a proper rip saw though.
Love your videos sir!
Excellent tip. Thank you.
Thank you Paul, another wonderful vid!
Very useful! What would be a good first hand plane for this sort of job?
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice tips info :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Veru usefull technic... as usual. A real mentor. Cheers!
Paul Sellers youre the man! Im beginning to film my progression as a handtool hobbyist woodworker and may or may not turn it into a youtube series. During filming, I'm constantly referencing your various videos and singing your praises. Send me a blown up print of your headshot and I will include in the background during filming kinda of idolizing you the way Chuck Norris has been. ttys?
Mr Sellers. Do you ever use a kerfing plane, when re-sawing?
Need a video on how to steer a saw, because I drift all over the place.
A short answer while waiting for the video: torquing the handle moves the near side and far side of the cut in the same direction; pushing the handle sideways moves the near and far sides of the cut in opposite directions. Combinations of these can adjust one side and not the other. (Note that by flipping the workpiece every ten strokes, you don't have to worry about the far side drifting and can concentrate on the near side only. Great tip, Paul.)
If you are drifting, you are probably doing one, the other, or both of those things, maybe unintentionally, or maybe intending to correct your cutting line but accidentally disturbing it in some other way. It doesn't take much of either to make the cut drift.
Practice making a sure, straight hand motion; there is no substitute for practice (repetition) when developing a motor skill like this. I learned it filing metal, but I find it works for sawing wood as well. (It also improves your billiards/pool stroke. Moving your hand in a perfect straight line has many applications.)
Another thing don't over hold the saw if you hold the handle mega tight your wrist tends to not twist that pushes you off. Hold the saw only as tight as you need. :)
What Matthew Trott said: Let the saw just rest in your hand, and it will require little guidance. Like gripping a kitten :)
Its freaking magic. I cant cut straight to save my life.
takes some pictures of your cuts and we will see if it makes sense
but practice is key. if it still isnt there leave it for a while come back to it. fixed my tig welding !
So beautiful, thank you. I really enjoyed it.
thanks Peter.
your video content is amazing thankyou
Very useful info thanks. I agree it is excellent exercise
Paul, can you show us how to make those drawer fronts, I really think they are nice.
Here's a funny one Paul, the blue stool, behind you, did you make it? Like the design... Jeff
Thanks. I needed this tip
Thanks for sharing.
How about doing a demo video on a wide panel for book-matching purposes?
That's when you buy a bandsaw
cdouglas1942 too expensive n no room
cdouglas1942 when you use a bandsaw I believe it ceases to be artisan
Thank You Paul
Pure mastery...thanks a lot.
do you have videos on sawing technique? I'm debating on selling all my "power tools" and buying hand tools seems so much simpler
Thank you very much. This is exactly what I needed for my current project. Can I apply this technique on a large linden-wood board 300*3000*25 mm ?
Enjoyment 😄 and very usefull 😄. Thanks 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Hello Mr. Sellers and community! im resawing ipe (deckwood) wood which is super dry and hard but the thin pieces keep warping slightly ("u" shape forms on the shorter sides) Anyone have any idea why and what to do? or if its even possible to avoid this warping? thank you for all your teachings
When you cut that board down through it's narrow width I was surprised at how straight your cut was. I need a lot of practice yet.
Nice video, Paul, as always - now all I need is Part 2, in which you show how to finish the last few inches of the cut! I always find this bit problematic, as you can't keep the workpiece in the vice and continue the cut in the same direction. Do you take it out of the vice entirely and finish it off just holding the piece in one hand and sawing with the other? Or do you have some natty technique for gripping the almost-completely-sawn piece in the vice in a way that allows the cut to be completed?
Nice!!💜thank you!!
Thank you sir
Thanks Paul!
most essential, thank you
If I'm making a new bench and only have one vice where should I put it on the end or the side
+Harry 13 what about clamping with bench dogs
P.Sellers made a video about that. Bench dogs aren't used that often, at least I don't use them that often, hard to get a firm grip without flexing your piece when working on small projects. Go for end vice if you really think you will work with bench dogs, assuming that you know what you're doing but I assume that you don't, otherwise you wouldn't ask that question. Then go for a side vice.
Good alternative to bench dogs is using a fence, just a thin strip of wood clamped/nailed/whatever to your bench used to plane your pieces against it. Tried it, adopted it.
+psykophaz ok
+psykophaz where on the side should I locate it
Traditionally to the left if you are facing the bench and are right hand dominant.
I Lear something EVERY time I watch!
Thank you, very useful and interesting
Thank You !
Would the same technique work for wood that is 20 Cm wide when ripping to thickness ?
awesome...as always!
i deal instruction for the garden chair project im working on. cheers, Kate
Is the difference in a rip saw and a crosscut saw just the number of teeth per inch?
That, the angle of the teeth, and the way teeth are set. Paul Sellers made a great video that explains everything.
Yes there is a big difference between the two. View rip teeth as a row of chisels plowing thru the kerf and 'ripping' out chunks of wood...view CC teeth as two rows of knives slicing each side of the kerf and making fine dust in between. CC teeth have a bevel on each side of each tooth ( known as fleem) while rip teeth don't. The number of teeth governs the speed of the cut as well as the smoothness of the finish. As the number per inch gets higher the smoother the cut and the less important rip vs CC. A 15 ppi rip tenon saw will both rip and CC nicely with a fine finish, but a 4.5 ppi rip will make a total mess of the board if used to CC.
ripping is the most frustrating part of my woodworking hobby. I won't touch a table saw but with the cost of a good panel rip saw i might as well buy a 10 inch band saw. I've tried cheaper panel saws but can't cut straight with them and the kerf is much to wide.
Does anybody know where you can get such a rip saw?
Could you show us in a quick video how to completely rip the entire length of the board? How do you clamp it so you can rip the final few inches?
Thank you for the suggestion. We will give it some thought but have nothing planned for that yet.
Question; Where can a guy get one of these here in the US? Or one comparable? Or is there a place I can order on line and have shipped here?
I think that's the big problem, are there any here, say at HD, that don't have the hardened teeth? I looked up the saw he is using and they specifically are listed as "resharpenable" I guess I could take a file with me to HD and try them :)
Can't help you there, I'm afraid; I haven't looked at the HD offerings too closely. Instead I went and purchased a $25 japanese pull-saw from amazon, which has the advantage of being two-sided (it has a ripping side and a cross-cutting side). It is impulse hardened, so I can't sharpen it and it won't last me three centuries like a good resharpenable saw would, but as far as I can tell it's plenty good to get me started and I'll get a proper one once this breaks.
Just buy a vintage saw off eBay. You can find old Disstons all day long and if you are going to sharpen them then you can score them for a good price.
When I realize I must resaw a piece, I cry a little.
oh me too
Hahaha same goes here 😂
What do you mean 22Lb. saw? Nice video and well explained.Congratulations
Quid
wow. Nice.
I keep reminding myself when I’m sawing, that I can only follow a line I can see. Keeps me from fogetting to flip the piece over.
Yes I enjoyed it!
Sir, you are very good at using hand tools. How many years of experience do you have sir??
Paul has around 65 years experience in woodworking. -Team Paul
Thanks, obvious once you see it.
hi, what teeth per inch has your hand saw?
Curious if anyone bothers with a kerfing plane for longer cuts.
Yeah... Tom Fidgen.
rdouthwaite Lol. Anyone else?