I went to the WoodWright's school (I miss them) and made a cross cut and rip panel saw, so much fun. I mean cut the teeth, set and filed. Shaped the handle complete with Lambs Toonage (I think you said Lambs tail). Only thing I can add to your excellent video is is if teeth are set correctly (same set) I found that the saw tooth punch gave a bit of added set to one side because all teeth are punched from one side. This caused the saw to drift to one side. I had to use a diamond stone to smooth the aggressive side a bit to make it track.
This is SO COOL!!!! Thank you from a neophyte woodworker!!! I'm so thrilled to have found your channel!!! I've watched a couple videos already and I'm so impressed how much information and how you break it down for lay people like myself! Thank you!
Thank you for really explaining How to Use a Saw! I am 57 years experienced and have avoided hand saws because I could never cut a straight line and it took so much effort. I will try your techniques in the very near future.
The Master showed how to properly sharpen a wood handsaw using a file and an ancient device for properly tilting its teeth. Young people should watch and like such programs. We should encourage them to do this in a thoughtful way, because one day there may be a power outage and what then? Greetings to the Master and the Channel Fans 😀.
Thank you! I am getting ready to sharpen my very first handsaw, an old panel saw. This is exactly what I needed to see and understand. You are a wonderful instructor and example of a true craftsman. So happy I found your channel. Your shop, bench and tool collection is amazing.
I find your tips indispensable sir . Your approach to teaching these lessons are clear and simple to follow and for this , I thank you . I get excited when these subscriptions come up on my feed . Cheers !
Great video! Your presentation is excellent and very natural. You're a great teacher! This is what we need more of, at least those of us who seek to learn and not just be entertained. Thank you.
Graham you have inspired me …I have a spear and Jackson 88 panel saw in the shed that I purchased when I was a teenager 58 years Ago I’m going to renovate it using your guide lines I also have a matching tenon saw
Great video. I have acquired an assortment of handsaw's recently had am looking forward to sharpening and using them. Currently working on making the storage/display cabinet, this will be the next step for me :)
I was taught that the particular piece of the handle is called the lamb's tongue and not the lamb's tail. When sharpening the saw the blade should be positioned lower in the saw vice to minimize chatter.
Rex Krueger recommended you and I subscribed when I watched that first video and found it so well presented and chock full of good information. Same again here! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you sir for presenting this. The saw you worked on was 7 tip. I have 8 tpi and a 10 tpi crosscut saws. Does the 7 tpi saw work as a rip saw because it is courser? Perhaps you could do a video and discuss the differences in practice. What to look for in a saw for various purposes. Many thanks again.
The point I tried to make was that lacking a full-size rip saw and a full-size crosscut saw, the panel saw is a good compromise for relatively small work. But yes, a slightly coarser panel saw (like the 7tpi crosscut panel saw I used) will work better as a ripsaw than a finer toothed saw. Hope this hlps. Thanks for watching.
Hi @Graham Blackburn Woodworking, I’m new to hand tool woodworking and I’ve just purchased new rip cut and cross-cut saws. Both do fine job, but I’m a woman with smaller hands than the men I suspect these saws were made to suit. The handles are just … big. Is it possible to make a female-sized handle that doesn’t lose the balance of the original? I suspect the answer is, “Yes,” but I don’t know where to begin. Should I try to thin out the handle or would it be better to make a new handle altogether? If the latter, does the handle need to attach in a different position (tilted up or down)? Do you have any suggestions?
@@gjbmunc I actually have 2 new saws. Each is 22inches, which is on the shorter end of the spectrum and the teeth on each are perfect. Regardless the length and the teeth, the handles are too large for my smaller hands. How do you suggest modifying the handles so that they fit my hands and remain in balance with the panel? There must surely be a way to address this, but it seems nobody has considered this issue and I’m nervous about doing something that could ruin my new saws.
@@roadtriplover. How are you feeling with your saws? I just wanted to share that I (male) took an extended woodworking class in which 1/4 of the class were women (3 women). They used the same saws as the men. Based on this, I think you can have confidence in your tools right now as they are, confidence that they can do the job for you. They may feel funny since this is a new skill, but give them and you some time. When we are learning challenging things, there is nothing worse than having doubts creep in, doubts that something is wrong that makes things impossible. While I can easily believe that handles might be changed to suit women's hands _better,_ I would expect that they are good enough as they are to allow quite a lot of excellent work. As long as you are not struggling to hold the saw at all and as long as you can relax (which is part of the learning), you can proceed with confidence. I think where women had the hardest time was with the combination square. Reaching across a piece of work with the outer fingers while holding the square with the thumb tightly against the work can be an insurmountable challenge with smaller hands. Tricks there are to use an engineer's square instead of a combination square because the handles are much narrower and, more importantly, put the work in the vise to use the square. Now you can focus on pushing the square without reaching across to squeeze from the other side of the work. I hope this helps and hope Graham doesn't mind me chiming in. This is meant as "students helping classmates."
@@ef2b Hmmm. Thanks, I think. I don’t lack confidence and I’m not new to using saws. I’ve performed construction work for many years. I am new to using the larger variety of hand tools. Where I might have used a circular, table, band, miter or jig saw for previous work, I’m now using panel saws. I can use the man-hand panel saws as they are, but the handles are really big and uncomfortable, which requires a more exhausting grip. My hand and arm gets tired faster, as the handles are not comfortable or easy to grip. While many women “can” use man-hand sized panel saws, it doesn’t mean they are either comfortable or not exhausting for women, who have smaller hands, to use. I haven’t had any problem with a combination square in all the years I’ve been performing construction tasks, so no issues there. So, again, thanks. I’m really hoping for advice re: how to shape/size the handles of my saws so they are easier for me to hold and less tiring to use so that I can practice more and grow my skills for hand tool furniture making. Take care.
A panel saw may be regarded as a small crosscut saw (because that's how the teeth are filed) but because of its small size it can also be used on small workpieces as a rip saw - which would be hard work with a full-size crosscut saw.
Could you show us how you adjust the set when a saw wanders left or right when cutting? I've seen examples of this on other sites, however they dont explain exactly how they go about adjusting the set when a saw pulls in one direction, or the other. Thanks
If the saw cuts to the right, just lightly file the right hand side teeth, and if to the left file the left hand side. I'll try and include a demo in an upcoming episode.
Three disagreements: 1. The saw vise should grip the saw with just the teeth showing. As shown with more of the saw sticking out of the top of the vise there will be serious vibration of the file. 2. The Rake on a crosscut saw is not close to vertical as in a rip saw, but must be laid back a minimum of 15 degrees, or more in some cases. 3. He shows how to measure PPI and PPI is stamped on the saw. He calls this TPI, Teeth Per Inch but it is one more than TPI.
For big framing timbers, saws similar to the one in the video introduction; for smaller workpieces, regular ripsaws would be used, the larger then better ,6tpi for example.
Softer woods such as pine or cedar can use a lower TPI such as 3 or 4 tpi. Lower tpi can be more prone to tooth breakage but can cut much faster if care is used. Lower tpi also requires more force to push and should be tailored per user.
@@nicocortez102 thank you. I'm actually just experimenting with a 4ppi to rip boards off a locust log. It seems to be working fine. I've yet to see a 3ppi saw. I didn't even consider that. My brain stopped at 4 for some reason. Thank you
Heard about you from REX KRUEGER. He was right, you are good. Thanks for the insight into panel saws. Question: what is a good source for saw sets? The new ones all seem to be made from cheap (weak) metals.
I went to the WoodWright's school (I miss them) and made a cross cut and rip panel saw, so much fun. I mean cut the teeth, set and filed. Shaped the handle complete with Lambs Toonage (I think you said Lambs tail). Only thing I can add to your excellent video is is if teeth are set correctly (same set) I found that the saw tooth punch gave a bit of added set to one side because all teeth are punched from one side. This caused the saw to drift to one side. I had to use a diamond stone to smooth the aggressive side a bit to make it track.
I usually file from alternate sides, butthe stoning of a leading side works.
This is SO COOL!!!! Thank you from a neophyte woodworker!!!
I'm so thrilled to have found your channel!!! I've watched a couple videos already and I'm so impressed how much information and how you break it down for lay people like myself! Thank you!
Thank you very much!
This has inspired me to bring back to life two old saws that belonged to my grandfather. They will cut timber again after many many decades.
Way to go!
Rex Krueger sent me. Looking forward to learning from you.
me too!
Thanks for coming
Thanks!
Rex sent me! TY Graham, for the inside skinny on how to sharpen a saw. Brilliant.
Me too
Thank you for really explaining How to Use a Saw! I am 57 years experienced and have avoided hand saws because I could never cut a straight line and it took so much effort. I will try your techniques in the very near future.
Good luck!
The Master showed how to properly sharpen a wood handsaw using a file and an ancient device for properly tilting its teeth.
Young people should watch and like such programs. We should encourage them to do this in a thoughtful way, because one day there may be a power outage and what then?
Greetings to the Master and the Channel Fans 😀.
Thanks!
Thanks, Graham! Your videos are ideal in length and depth. Oh, and thanks Rex.
My pleasure!
You are a great teacher, Graham - a prince of pedagogy! I wish I knew all you teach 65 years ago when I started woodwarking.
Wow, thank you!
Interesting antique tools to use on the saw.
Yes they are!
You came up in my feed for the first time ever, as far as I know.
Subscribed 5 minutes into your video. Good content, very well presented.
Wow, thanks
Thanks again for a great video. Good teaching!
Glad you liked it!
What a clever idea with the board
I’m truly impressed
Glad you like it - not my idea, people have used it for a long time!
That was excellent! It was the way we were taught in woods class in Jr. high so long ago. Thank you for keeping this knowledge going.
Very welcome
Thank you! I am getting ready to sharpen my very first handsaw, an old panel saw. This is exactly what I needed to see and understand. You are a wonderful instructor and example of a true craftsman. So happy I found your channel. Your shop, bench and tool collection is amazing.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you sir for these videos!
Glad you like them!
I find your tips indispensable sir . Your approach to teaching these lessons are clear and simple to follow and for this , I thank you . I get excited when these subscriptions come up on my feed . Cheers !
Thanks so much. Appreciated!
Great video! Your presentation is excellent and very natural. You're a great teacher! This is what we need more of, at least those of us who seek to learn and not just be entertained. Thank you.
Wow, thank you!
Never heard of a panel saw ---what is the difference between this panel saw and a rip or crosscut saw ?
Basically the size -much smaller.
Can I use a angle grinder with very thin disc --to sharpen a rip saw ?
Carefully!
Graham you have inspired me …I have a spear and Jackson 88 panel saw in the shed that I purchased when I was a teenager 58 years Ago I’m going to renovate it using your guide lines I also have a matching tenon saw
Great!
That was good. Simple as that! Rex says Hi!
So pleased, and grateful hi's to Rex too.
Wonderful stuff. Masterfully presented. Rex sent me.
Thanks for coming (and thank Rex)
Appreciate your videos , pls keep it coming.
Thanks, will do!
Thanks for sharing Graham I appreciate you!
My pleasure!
Your videos are very informative. Thanks for making great content.
Glad you like them!
Great video. I have acquired an assortment of handsaw's recently had am looking forward to sharpening and using them. Currently working on making the storage/display cabinet, this will be the next step for me :)
Glad it was helpful!
I was taught that the particular piece of the handle is called the lamb's tongue and not the lamb's tail. When sharpening the saw the blade should be positioned lower in the saw vice to minimize chatter.
Both points true!
Your explanation was very helpful. Thanks !!!
Glad it was helpful!
great lesson
Thanks!
Rex Krueger recommended you and I subscribed when I watched that first video and found it so well presented and chock full of good information. Same again here! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks and welcome
If you notice the toe of the saw flapping like a fish tail on the return saw stroke is that a sign of insufficient set?
Possibly but more likely a sign of too much effort and inaccuracy on your part.
Rex sent me here and I'm delighted with your information-packed videos! Subscribed! 🤪
Welcome!!
Very nice thank you love your videos
Thank you so much!
Thank you sir for presenting this. The saw you worked on was 7 tip. I have 8 tpi and a 10 tpi crosscut saws. Does the 7 tpi saw work as a rip saw because it is courser? Perhaps you could do a video and discuss the differences in practice. What to look for in a saw for various purposes. Many thanks again.
The point I tried to make was that lacking a full-size rip saw and a full-size crosscut saw, the panel saw is a good compromise for relatively small work.
But yes, a slightly coarser panel saw (like the 7tpi crosscut panel saw I used) will work better as a ripsaw than a finer toothed saw.
Hope this hlps. Thanks for watching.
Hi @Graham Blackburn Woodworking, I’m new to hand tool woodworking and I’ve just purchased new rip cut and cross-cut saws. Both do fine job, but I’m a woman with smaller hands than the men I suspect these saws were made to suit. The handles are just … big. Is it possible to make a female-sized handle that doesn’t lose the balance of the original? I suspect the answer is, “Yes,” but I don’t know where to begin. Should I try to thin out the handle or would it be better to make a new handle altogether? If the latter, does the handle need to attach in a different position (tilted up or down)? Do you have any suggestions?
I would keep an eye out for shorter, smaller panel saws whose teeth you could file to be either crosscut or rip.
@@gjbmunc I actually have 2 new saws. Each is 22inches, which is on the shorter end of the spectrum and the teeth on each are perfect. Regardless the length and the teeth, the handles are too large for my smaller hands. How do you suggest modifying the handles so that they fit my hands and remain in balance with the panel? There must surely be a way to address this, but it seems nobody has considered this issue and I’m nervous about doing something that could ruin my new saws.
Perhaps you could make your own handle?
@@roadtriplover. How are you feeling with your saws? I just wanted to share that I (male) took an extended woodworking class in which 1/4 of the class were women (3 women). They used the same saws as the men. Based on this, I think you can have confidence in your tools right now as they are, confidence that they can do the job for you. They may feel funny since this is a new skill, but give them and you some time. When we are learning challenging things, there is nothing worse than having doubts creep in, doubts that something is wrong that makes things impossible. While I can easily believe that handles might be changed to suit women's hands _better,_ I would expect that they are good enough as they are to allow quite a lot of excellent work. As long as you are not struggling to hold the saw at all and as long as you can relax (which is part of the learning), you can proceed with confidence.
I think where women had the hardest time was with the combination square. Reaching across a piece of work with the outer fingers while holding the square with the thumb tightly against the work can be an insurmountable challenge with smaller hands. Tricks there are to use an engineer's square instead of a combination square because the handles are much narrower and, more importantly, put the work in the vise to use the square. Now you can focus on pushing the square without reaching across to squeeze from the other side of the work.
I hope this helps and hope Graham doesn't mind me chiming in. This is meant as "students helping classmates."
@@ef2b Hmmm. Thanks, I think. I don’t lack confidence and I’m not new to using saws. I’ve performed construction work for many years. I am new to using the larger variety of hand tools. Where I might have used a circular, table, band, miter or jig saw for previous work, I’m now using panel saws. I can use the man-hand panel saws as they are, but the handles are really big and uncomfortable, which requires a more exhausting grip. My hand and arm gets tired faster, as the handles are not comfortable or easy to grip. While many women “can” use man-hand sized panel saws, it doesn’t mean they are either comfortable or not exhausting for women, who have smaller hands, to use. I haven’t had any problem with a combination square in all the years I’ve been performing construction tasks, so no issues there. So, again, thanks. I’m really hoping for advice re: how to shape/size the handles of my saws so they are easier for me to hold and less tiring to use so that I can practice more and grow my skills for hand tool furniture making. Take care.
I'm afraid I don't get it. Apart from the size, what's the difference between a crosscut saw and a panel saw?
A panel saw may be regarded as a small crosscut saw (because that's how the teeth are filed) but because of its small size it can also be used on small workpieces as a rip saw - which would be hard work with a full-size crosscut saw.
@@gjbmunc thanks!
Could you show us how you adjust the set when a saw wanders left or right when cutting? I've seen examples of this on other sites, however they dont explain exactly how they go about adjusting the set when a saw pulls in one direction, or the other. Thanks
If the saw cuts to the right, just lightly file the right hand side teeth, and if to the left file the left hand side. I'll try and include a demo in an upcoming episode.
Three disagreements:
1. The saw vise should grip the saw with just the teeth showing. As shown with more of the saw sticking out of the top of the vise there will be serious vibration of the file.
2. The Rake on a crosscut saw is not close to vertical as in a rip saw, but must be laid back a minimum of 15 degrees, or more in some cases.
3. He shows how to measure PPI and PPI is stamped on the saw. He calls this TPI, Teeth Per Inch but it is one more than TPI.
What type of saw would old time timber framers use for cutting timbers to length or for cutting joinery, when applicable? Thank you!
For big framing timbers, saws similar to the one in the video introduction; for smaller workpieces, regular ripsaws would be used, the larger then better ,6tpi for example.
@@gjbmunc thank you. I wondered if they maybe used small bucking saws (like a 1 man version of the saw hanging on the outside of your shop)
Softer woods such as pine or cedar can use a lower TPI such as 3 or 4 tpi. Lower tpi can be more prone to tooth breakage but can cut much faster if care is used. Lower tpi also requires more force to push and should be tailored per user.
@@nicocortez102 thank you. I'm actually just experimenting with a 4ppi to rip boards off a locust log. It seems to be working fine. I've yet to see a 3ppi saw. I didn't even consider that. My brain stopped at 4 for some reason. Thank you
Awesome
Thaank you!
I thought all three of those saws were considered panel saws. Thanks for clarifying that for me.
That's how some people refer to them, but I think strictly speaking (and few of us are really strict) 'panel' saw means a smaller unbacked handsaw.
If it helps, when buying a panel saw from Skelton Saws, I was told that the name “panel saw” comes from their common job of cutting panel pieces.
Panel saws ---? now I am really confused !
Really just a name for a smaller crosscut or ripsaw.
Great
Glad you like it!
Heard about you from REX KRUEGER. He was right, you are good. Thanks for the insight into panel saws. Question: what is a good source for saw sets? The new ones all seem to be made from cheap (weak) metals.
You're right, new ones are often not as good as old ones you might find on eBay. However, I think the Spear andf Jackson one sold on Amazon is OK.
I’m not going to comment. I’m just going to subscribe. Oh, wait . . .
Thanks!
👌🙏
You're welcome!
❤❤☆☆☆❤❤
thanks!
Panel saws ? You mean RIP saws ?--ARE CROSS CUT SAWS SMALLER ?
Panel saws is really just a name for a smaller crosscut or ripsaw.