What I really love about Mr. Sellers videos is that he always focuses on the skill building, and not necessarily the quality of the tool. I bought some super cheap chisels and got them to slice wood like it is butter. Admitted that the edge stayed sharp for a shorter duration (and hence cheap I guess), but I knew exactly what to do to get it back to a good state. Thank you Mr. Sellers!
Same here, first chisels I bought were a set, IIRC 8, 12, 16 and 20mm, cost me about 10-15 euros (about the same in $), awful plastic handles. But they are good when sharpened. I tend to strop those whenever I pick one of them up. I'm no metallurgist so I got no clue what's "wrong" with the steel but they're very hard to sharpen BUT they also don't keep sharp long, like you said.
I'm not sure if Paul actually realises how good he is. A great woodworker and teacher, of course...but the immaculate glue spreading on the plywood took it to another level. A joy to watch!
Hello from Canada, I am new to whittling an have watched about 5 videos on how to sharpen the knives from other UA-camrs. I like your video alot an learned from you Thank You. This is my 3rd video of yours I've seen LUCKY ME!!
My sharpening of chisels went to a whole different level after using Paul's method, the last part of polishing the back on the wood itself was another dimension, literally the chiselled felt like silk after using a sharp tool,thanks again Paul
have built his previous one with some good dmt stones, had the 3 of them just sitting loose before. Wow once you have them setup in a way where its easy to get them all out and stable at once and once you learn to free hand sharpen. Its a game changer, so quick and easy now i sharpen anytime i feel it could be helpful and do not try to continue on with a dull blade since sharpening would take more time then i want.
I've always loved Paul's sharpening techniques. They are simple and it's easy to accomplish a sharp (enough) edge for all your woodworking projects. You don't need those fancy chisels or tools in general to do fine work. The diamond plates are great.
very good. I first came across these on an old post on Pauls blog a while back, right when i was beginning and worrying about the cost of sharpening equipment vs the cost of my very basic tool kit. So I got some of these and they worked brilliantly and still do. I have got other stones now (which were a gift), they are longer which i prefer. But these do work, work well and are a fantastic and economical way in to sharpening.
I built this I think 7-8 years ago after watching one of your early videos, and I've been usince since. I have three diamons coated stones and I sharpen chisels in a minute. Super efficient!
Built something v. similar after seeing the version with the thicker plates. They weren’t available at the time, so went with the thin cheap plates. 5 years on, with a lot of ‘hobby’ use they are still doing the job. I suspect I will not not to replace for years yet, if ever.
I bought cheap thin diamond plates (200, 600 and 1000) for ~30euros some years ago, glued them to piece of plexiglass, still going strong. But last week I got my first DMT plate (green one, 1200ish), damn it is good, a bit narrow for my taste but I can still sharpen my plane irons on that. 'Traded' one of my handmade boxes for it. My mate wanted a box, made it, asked how much I want for it, "Nah I don't want money straight, order me this sharpening plate instead". Good deal, I think.
Was wondering before watching what you have in mind to make another one on your sharpening method. Great addition to the existent. We can see what is important in sharpening. I've made an habit to go to each stone. I guess in fear that I miss something. Now I've fully understand the process. The flip of the leather board is brilliant. Didn't know we needed a harder surface for the back. Thanks for sharing your passion and knowledge!
I made a decision (2x150g, 1x800g and 1x1200g ie 4 Chinese diamond plates, 170mmx75mmx1mm), ordered these 21/12 on ebay and have just taken delivery 30/12. Delivered Price av. £5:86 each. Now to make Paul's sharpening station.
Hi Paul - Thanks for another excellent video. I’m making this sharpening station and just wondering if I could ask about cleaning after use. I’ve got EZElap diamond plates and use cheap glass cleaner as Paul recommends. After sharpening should I be cleaning with washing up liquid and water then drying with kitchen towel? Or is it ok to leave the stones unwashed (with glass cleaner residue) until the next use?
Paul, thanks a lot, I've bought a similar set 3 a few weeks ago, cheap. I was going to make a Paul Seller's sharpening station from your old video, but this is just for me, perfect timing.
You are using thin diamond plates here and gluing them to the surface. In a previous video you were cutting recesses for thicker plates. Where did you get the thinner plates from?
Try a double sided tape by the brand name of Spec , It’s a great double sided tape, I use it for my templates with my router, it leaves no residue and easy east to remove, it’s a pressure sensitive tape, meaning the more pressure you place on it the harder it becomes to tear apart.
Lovely. Narex has a couple of sets of four chisels each with plastic handles for just about 20-25 euros - with the same steel hardened as the more expensive mid priced wood handle which cost about 30-40 euros each.
Thank you for sharing. Curious about 150,800,1200 grit - when other articles talk about using 4000, 6000, 12,000 grit. My gut says go with the master, Paul, of course - but wondering why the huge difference.
The grit numbering system I don't think is equivalent over different sharpening methods (sand paper, oil stones, water stones, plates). I think what is important is you have course, medium and fine. You wouldn't want your course to be so fine as to take forever to form the burr.
After watching and being impressed, I immediately ordered a set. They arrived safely after 2 0r 3 days, but they were 300,400, and 600 grit where yours were a better range. Are the ones I received just as useful as featured in your UA-cam piece?
I use water stones and was never able to get sharpness to your level. Not sure if the culprit is stones or my technique. I use Veritas honing guide. Should I get the Diamond and plates? Please advise. Do we need to put a secondary bevel? when we move from courser to finer grid, do we need to first wipe clean the chisel? Since I am completely new to Diamond plates, after the use, do we wash it, wipe it? Does it need flattening done like we do to wet stones? Thanks
Mr. Sellers, will you share information where we are able to purchase diamond plates like these reasonably priced, preferably in US. Doing so will save shipping cost. Thank you, sir! Have a joyful Christmas! tom
Hi Paul. Can you please give a hint as to WHERE you bought those diamond sharpening plates and buffing compound? I'd like to try your system using the same equipment. Thanks.
As an ageing and recent wood-be wood worker, I've just discovered this maestro's website videos. Paul has said (further down) that the sharpening plates are 170 x70mm and I can see that they have no backing. This narrows the search but I can only find 170 x75mm and most seem to 1mm thick I'd be keen to know the thickness? Can anyone help please? Better still, has anyone actually found the exact product and supplier? Thank you Paul for your expertise and generosity. I'm now trying to build up the courage to have a go at building his workbench 😨.
Thanks Paul. One question, when you buy inexpensive chisels, don’t you have to spend a long time flattening the flat side first? Also, do you need to create a secondary bevel?
Good questions! In most cases, I have found the backs to be slightly hollow and this is perfect because when you flip them the abrasive develops a flat right behind the back, which is exactly where you want it. YOU DO NOT NEED A FLAT BACK! No matter what anyone tells you, and I include any and all gurus who'll have you jumping through all kinds of hoops here, it's silly and ridiculous, but you do need to initiate this face a little and make sure the flat right behind the edge goes right up to the edge and then polish it out as you did on the bevel..
Hi @Paul. I don't understand why in this video you create a 30° bevel and in another relatively recent video you sharpen with a single bevel. Also in the other video I thought I understood that it was not necessary to create a secondary bevel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and sorry if there are mistakes as I used a translator.
It is not but secondary bevel is created when you are lazy to sharpen whole surface.Its much easier to sharpen 5mm of steel than to reprofile the whole chisle.
@@zumbazumba1 , thank you very much for your response. I understand what you comment and the benefit of sharpening 5mm of steel. What I don't know is the time in which those 5mm grow and become the full profile so it will be more and more steel to remove. Watching Paul's previous videos, I think the need to use a guide diminishes the benefit of sharpening less steel. I guess the way Paul wants to teach us, is to get a good sharpening by hand in which the complete profile is sharpened without a guide and of course without electric machinery. I don't know if I'm on the right track but it seems like a fun topic to discuss.
The new chisel has an existing bevel of 25º. In my sharpening method, I start at 30º and in the push forward the hands drop slightly, so ultimately the bevel becomes a quarter ellipse; in other words, it's a macro camber. It looks like a second bevel starting out, but there is no need to waste steel to get the macro camber. After a few sharpenings you will end up there, but only if you freehand sharpen and do not use a honing guide.
How interesting @@Paul.Sellers, thank you very much for your response. I am just starting in this woodworking world and from the beginning I want to give the utmost importance to manual skills. Your videos and explanations help us not to get lost along the way. I think that following your steps from other videos my chisels have a correct shape and sharpening. I am not 100% sure because of lack of experience, but I enjoy the whole process. Although I give them importance, I am not obsessed with the angle or other parameters, but I enjoy the opinion of experienced people. Greetings and may we continue to enjoy this beautiful craft.
Hello Paul! I love your explanations. You are the best. I want to know the name or if possible the link where they sell those thin stones. I live in Buenos Aires. Or if someone has already bought them, could you give me the link. Thank you very much and happy 2025 to everyone.
@@Paul.SellersI understand we don’t want to advertise, but what price range are these plates in? Wondering if $60 is what one plate should cost or if all three can be had for less
Could you add a comment about the stropping? I'm not sure what specific angle - if any - that you're holding the chisel when stropping. Is this attempt to add a micro 3rd bevel or are you using a motion that "rounds over" the bevels from the base 25 degrees to something a bit more than the the 30 degree angle you established with the honing guide? Maybe you've expounded on this in a previous video that you could point me to?
Hi Paul, Have you tested this brand long term? I had a plate from Trend - 400/1200 grit I think. I wore out the 400 side in less than two years of weekend only use to the point where it barely cuts.
Unless I damage an edge by dropping it etc. I never put my blades , gouges chisels etc on any kind of stone, sandpaper or diamond plate. All that is ever needed is regular stropping on a leather strop with some stropping compound. I do use a leather/wood stropping wheel occasionally. No need for anything else and I bet my tools are just as sharp or sharper. All that edge honing and grinding just wears out your tools. 😊
Sometimes I wonder which chisels I should take to the construction site, a very hostile site. Some cheap ones that I don't mind breaking or some HSS ones that can stand up to heavy duty work.
Cheap diamond stones are better than expensive composite artificial stonws? Like tyrolit or carborundun ones? Tyrolit are arround 20usd for a 2faces one 400/1200 and 3 diamond are arround 30 from 600/1200/3000
Valid question, can offer my opinion: No they're not too small, I just bought DMT bench stone that is 2 x 6 inches, I can still sharpen plane irons on that, all though I gotta angle the iron a bit sideways but it does not affect the outcome. Of course I prefer wider plates, but I can live with smaller ones too (it was cheapish for DMT, ~70euros).
Not too small. And remember that though using a honing guide does restrict the length of your stroke and thereby the length of the plates, you can work the guide backwards and so use the whole length of the plates.
@@Paul.Sellers as usual Mr.sellers you are by far the best u tuber for hand tool tutorials..here’s a quick question about that honing guide..wouldn’t those wheels on the honing guide not wear down on the grit of Diamond plates ? And would that not change the guides angle ?
As per Mr Seller’s original recommendation I’ve been using US windshield washer fluid for quite a while. I believe it is water with an added liquid that helps it evaporate, a little bit of detergent, and some anti-rust additive. It works well. More knowledgeable persons may feel free to correct me - as if they ever need encouragement!
Tupperwallace said it all, really. Water works, but somehow it seems to disappear off the plates before that sharpening level is done and yes, you could just add more as you go, but the auto-glass cleaner is about as cheap as water,it's in a convenient spray bottler that outlasts water ten times and a bottle should go for ten years.
Go to Amazon or eBay and enter diamond plates. The ones I go for don't have maker names, just made in China. For compound just enter green buffing compound.
just take the word of 50 years experience when Paul says use contact cement, use contact cement. It is what counter tops and flooring are glued with, it will hold. As far as hot glue, it has limited life span and really doesn't hold together long, Leather workers use contact cement....
@@elund408Wow, as a furniture conservator it's news to me that hide glue has a limited life span and doesn't hold together long. The piece I'm working on now is dated 1807, a leather faced slant top writing desk. All of it's case joints are still solidly glued with hide glue. The marquetry I'm repairing on it's side aprons is still solidly attached with hide glue too, but a little heat and moisture and I can remove the damaged veneers easily. The original leather writing surface is still intact and attached with, wait for it... hide glue. Hot melt glue and hot hide glue are not at all even remotely close to the same thing.
What would be the advantage of the epoxy? All that business with the messy mixing, more trash to throw away, more difficult to spread thin and flat. It might be harder under the plate, I suppose.
I had an ummmmm disagreement with a chap on a whittling group about the strop, he insisted that the strop just polished a blade, and did not remove any metal 🤦♂ after a few comments I just gave up lol Great video, and I like how compact that board is
Would there be an issue with shavings from each grit sized plate combining with one another whilst sharpening ? Coud you have a routered border separating each grade to catch any shavings and with them being raised this too may help. It may be ott but just a suggestion for mark2 ?
Shavings... Do you mean the grit particles in the slurry from using each plate? I'd wipe the gunk on the chisel off before moving to the next grit. But Paul doesn't do that here. I think I still will wipe them off before moving on. But I also suspect Paul will weigh in with a comment at some point.
@@jimweisgram9185 I think this video is mainly about SETTING of a sharpening system, rather than the actual sharpening process. He has videos on sharpening process, which you might already have seen. I am not a woodworker, though I have watched his videos, but it goes without saying that dirt has to be removed in any cleaning process.
Not at all. The particles on each plate will not transfer by any noticeable amount. The fluid used is not lubrication, as most people say it is. It is to 'float off' the particles to the edge of the plates. At the end of sharpening, you will wipe off all the moisture and take the particles with the cloth or paper towel. It's not at all necessary to wipe between plate changes.
I think first he mainly introduced the sandpaper process. Now, in his opinion diamond plates are cheaper even for the absolute beginners. By absolute I mean those who know almost nothing about woodworking. Mr Paul wants simple techniques to be continued, and for that someone has to BEGIN... Otherwise it would be...'Once upon a time......'
@@ratansharma951 I don't disagree, what I'm talking about is that if this was uploaded 1 week ago, I could have done this instead of buying all the crap I got for sharpening...
Guys you worry too much about how long will a 10$ plate last.Your pathetic 40-50 HRC chisels are nothing compared to tungsten carbide lathe insert with its magnificent hardness of 60HRC . And yet cheap lapping 6" disk made the same way as these plates sharpens those and HSS tools(drills ,blanks with 5% cobalt,you name it,it will sharpen it) for 2 years on a cheap bench grinder(i made a back plate out of aluminum for grinder,that was biggest expense,and a plywood table.). It paid off 10x ,i made enough money to buy 10 more and it costs less than expensive diamond wheel of famous manufacturer. And yet you worry that you will wear a 10$ plate? What are you trying to do ? Leave it as a legacy to your grand grand grand children?
Well, that will be some length of time, so that's great. Mine are ten years old in use and still cut steel very well. I think rephrasing your word choice would work well if you care t: Instead of using the word "cheap", perhaps try inexpensive
What I really love about Mr. Sellers videos is that he always focuses on the skill building, and not necessarily the quality of the tool. I bought some super cheap chisels and got them to slice wood like it is butter. Admitted that the edge stayed sharp for a shorter duration (and hence cheap I guess), but I knew exactly what to do to get it back to a good state. Thank you Mr. Sellers!
Same here, first chisels I bought were a set, IIRC 8, 12, 16 and 20mm, cost me about 10-15 euros (about the same in $), awful plastic handles. But they are good when sharpened. I tend to strop those whenever I pick one of them up. I'm no metallurgist so I got no clue what's "wrong" with the steel but they're very hard to sharpen BUT they also don't keep sharp long, like you said.
I'm not sure if Paul actually realises how good he is. A great woodworker and teacher, of course...but the immaculate glue spreading on the plywood took it to another level. A joy to watch!
Finally after all these years I find out how to sharpen a chisel . Thank you for a clear and concise explanation.
Glad to see Mr. Sellers back again.
Hello from Canada, I am new to whittling an have watched about 5 videos on how to sharpen the knives from other UA-camrs. I like your video alot an learned from you Thank You. This is my 3rd video of yours I've seen LUCKY ME!!
My sharpening of chisels went to a whole different level after using Paul's method, the last part of polishing the back on the wood itself was another dimension, literally the chiselled felt like silk after using a sharp tool,thanks again Paul
Same.
Paul is the master. The Guru of all things woodworking. I've been doing it as a hobby a long time. Paul always improves my game.
have built his previous one with some good dmt stones, had the 3 of them just sitting loose before. Wow once you have them setup in a way where its easy to get them all out and stable at once and once you learn to free hand sharpen. Its a game changer, so quick and easy now i sharpen anytime i feel it could be helpful and do not try to continue on with a dull blade since sharpening would take more time then i want.
It's so great to have you back!!
Incredible and accessible video, easy to understand and focuses on building skills not the brand of a tool. Thank you
Thank you for another excellent educational video Paul, I like your simple, practical and no nonsense approach
I've always loved Paul's sharpening techniques. They are simple and it's easy to accomplish a sharp (enough) edge for all your woodworking projects. You don't need those fancy chisels or tools in general to do fine work. The diamond plates are great.
Thanks Paul!
"...I don't know how long your planning on living" lol, classic line!
Thank you Paul for trying to help people who are less fortunate with money. Some other peoples comments should be kept to themselves.
A super helpful video. Thank you.
Love the simplicity and the clean profile!!!!?
BLIMEY!
Mr S just gets better every time.
Happy Christmas to one and all.
Cheers.
My diamond plates just arrived this afternoon. Will build the base this weekend!
Whered you get the plates??
wondering the same thing! Where do you buy these plates?
very good. I first came across these on an old post on Pauls blog a while back, right when i was beginning and worrying about the cost of sharpening equipment vs the cost of my very basic tool kit. So I got some of these and they worked brilliantly and still do. I have got other stones now (which were a gift), they are longer which i prefer. But these do work, work well and are a fantastic and economical way in to sharpening.
This is great timing. This was on my list of shop projects! Thank you👍🏽
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and making us better wood workers!
The way you make this so simple is genius
I built this I think 7-8 years ago after watching one of your early videos, and I've been usince since. I have three diamons coated stones and I sharpen chisels in a minute. Super efficient!
where did you buy your stones from?
Built something v. similar after seeing the version with the thicker plates. They weren’t available at the time, so went with the thin cheap plates. 5 years on, with a lot of ‘hobby’ use they are still doing the job. I suspect I will not not to replace for years yet, if ever.
I bought cheap thin diamond plates (200, 600 and 1000) for ~30euros some years ago, glued them to piece of plexiglass, still going strong. But last week I got my first DMT plate (green one, 1200ish), damn it is good, a bit narrow for my taste but I can still sharpen my plane irons on that.
'Traded' one of my handmade boxes for it. My mate wanted a box, made it, asked how much I want for it, "Nah I don't want money straight, order me this sharpening plate instead". Good deal, I think.
Was wondering before watching what you have in mind to make another one on your sharpening method.
Great addition to the existent. We can see what is important in sharpening. I've made an habit to go to each stone. I guess in fear that I miss something.
Now I've fully understand the process.
The flip of the leather board is brilliant. Didn't know we needed a harder surface for the back.
Thanks for sharing your passion and knowledge!
Best teacher I wish I could meet him ❤❤❤❤
Man I was literally just wishing I could have a neighbor like this that I could just bring coffee to and watch him work
Thank you, I have my Dad's lovely old Sorby chisels that need some TLC.
Hallo Paul
Can you please explain if the leather you’re using to sharpen your tools, is a regular leather or a special treated leather.
Bendiciones maestro Paul desde Piriapolis Uruguay 🇺🇾 ❤
I made a decision (2x150g, 1x800g and 1x1200g ie 4 Chinese diamond plates, 170mmx75mmx1mm), ordered these 21/12 on ebay and have just taken delivery 30/12. Delivered Price av. £5:86 each. Now to make Paul's sharpening station.
A very good system to sharping blades, chisels, and plan irons.
Great system and not expensive! Thank you sir.
Hi Paul - Thanks for another excellent video. I’m making this sharpening station and just wondering if I could ask about cleaning after use. I’ve got EZElap diamond plates and use cheap glass cleaner as Paul recommends. After sharpening should I be cleaning with washing up liquid and water then drying with kitchen towel? Or is it ok to leave the stones unwashed (with glass cleaner residue) until the next use?
Thanks Paul. Brilliant as always.
Good stuff Mr. Sellers😊
Paul, thanks a lot, I've bought a similar set 3 a few weeks ago, cheap. I was going to make a Paul Seller's sharpening station from your old video, but this is just for me, perfect timing.
You are using thin diamond plates here and gluing them to the surface. In a previous video you were cutting recesses for thicker plates. Where did you get the thinner plates from?
Amazing, as always! Thanks Paul.
My New Year thing is to make one of these. Always wanted one that isnt complicated and works well for most applications. I think this is that.
Thanks Paul. I also found double sided tape work great on these plates.
I found that double sided tape didn't work great on these plates, they started falling off after a few sessions!
@@eanholt Try strong carpet tape.
Try a double sided tape by the brand name of Spec , It’s a great double sided tape, I use it for my templates with my router, it leaves no residue and easy east to remove, it’s a pressure sensitive tape, meaning the more pressure you place on it the harder it becomes to tear apart.
Lovely.
Narex has a couple of sets of four chisels each with plastic handles for just about 20-25 euros - with the same steel hardened as the more expensive mid priced wood handle which cost about 30-40 euros each.
Thank you for sharing. Curious about 150,800,1200 grit - when other articles talk about using 4000, 6000, 12,000 grit.
My gut says go with the master, Paul, of course - but wondering why the huge difference.
The grit numbering system I don't think is equivalent over different sharpening methods (sand paper, oil stones, water stones, plates).
I think what is important is you have course, medium and fine. You wouldn't want your course to be so fine as to take forever to form the burr.
@ thank you.
A great quandary of life: The only UA-camrs that I would absolutely buy whatever they suggest are the ones not trying to sell me anything. 2:37
After watching and being impressed, I immediately ordered a set. They arrived safely after 2 0r 3 days, but they were 300,400, and 600 grit where yours were a better range. Are the ones I received just as useful as featured in your UA-cam piece?
where did you get your plates from? Is it the same that Paul uses?
What brand of diamond plates are those? I like this system.
I always knew you had a sharp mind!
A master at work.
Just ordered mine. Should arrive Monday Dec. 2nd. Thank you Paul.
Which ones did you order?
Brand: SUWAJUME 3 PCS
I use water stones and was never able to get sharpness to your level. Not sure if the culprit is stones or my technique. I use Veritas honing guide.
Should I get the Diamond and plates? Please advise. Do we need to put a secondary bevel?
when we move from courser to finer grid, do we need to first wipe clean the chisel? Since I am completely new to Diamond plates, after the use, do we wash it, wipe it? Does it need flattening done like we do to wet stones? Thanks
I like your setup for sharpening.
Paul I've always struggled with sharpening my tools...could you leave a link to the diamond pads please
Mr. Sellers, will you share information where we are able to purchase diamond plates like these reasonably priced, preferably in US. Doing so will save shipping cost. Thank you, sir! Have a joyful Christmas! tom
Have got a shopping list of the plates ? And leather ? Thanks guys ❤
Hi Paul. Can you please give a hint as to WHERE you bought those diamond sharpening plates and buffing compound? I'd like to try your system using the same equipment. Thanks.
On eBay and Amazon.
As an ageing and recent wood-be wood worker, I've just discovered this maestro's website videos. Paul has said (further down) that the sharpening plates are 170 x70mm and I can see that they have no backing. This narrows the search but I can only find 170 x75mm and most seem to 1mm thick I'd be keen to know the thickness? Can anyone help please? Better still, has anyone actually found the exact product and supplier? Thank you Paul for your expertise and generosity. I'm now trying to build up the courage to have a go at building his workbench 😨.
Thanks Paul. One question, when you buy inexpensive chisels, don’t you have to spend a long time flattening the flat side first?
Also, do you need to create a secondary bevel?
Good questions! In most cases, I have found the backs to be slightly hollow and this is perfect because when you flip them the abrasive develops a flat right behind the back, which is exactly where you want it. YOU DO NOT NEED A FLAT BACK! No matter what anyone tells you, and I include any and all gurus who'll have you jumping through all kinds of hoops here, it's silly and ridiculous, but you do need to initiate this face a little and make sure the flat right behind the edge goes right up to the edge and then polish it out as you did on the bevel..
@ Thanks much
Hi @Paul. I don't understand why in this video you create a 30° bevel and in another relatively recent video you sharpen with a single bevel. Also in the other video I thought I understood that it was not necessary to create a secondary bevel.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and sorry if there are mistakes as I used a translator.
It is not but secondary bevel is created when you are lazy to sharpen whole surface.Its much easier to sharpen 5mm of steel than to reprofile the whole chisle.
@@zumbazumba1 , thank you very much for your response.
I understand what you comment and the benefit of sharpening 5mm of steel.
What I don't know is the time in which those 5mm grow and become the full profile so it will be more and more steel to remove.
Watching Paul's previous videos, I think the need to use a guide diminishes the benefit of sharpening less steel.
I guess the way Paul wants to teach us, is to get a good sharpening by hand in which the complete profile is sharpened without a guide and of course without electric machinery.
I don't know if I'm on the right track but it seems like a fun topic to discuss.
The new chisel has an existing bevel of 25º. In my sharpening method, I start at 30º and in the push forward the hands drop slightly, so ultimately the bevel becomes a quarter ellipse; in other words, it's a macro camber. It looks like a second bevel starting out, but there is no need to waste steel to get the macro camber. After a few sharpenings you will end up there, but only if you freehand sharpen and do not use a honing guide.
I believe it’s the 30 degree bevel he is creating from the 25 degree bevel the factory produces, at least that’s what I got from it.
How interesting @@Paul.Sellers, thank you very much for your response. I am just starting in this woodworking world and from the beginning I want to give the utmost importance to manual skills. Your videos and explanations help us not to get lost along the way.
I think that following your steps from other videos my chisels have a correct shape and sharpening. I am not 100% sure because of lack of experience, but I enjoy the whole process. Although I give them importance, I am not obsessed with the angle or other parameters, but I enjoy the opinion of experienced people.
Greetings and may we continue to enjoy this beautiful craft.
What the teacher is, is more important than what he teaches
Great content as always Paul! 😊
Hello Paul! I love your explanations. You are the best. I want to know the name or if possible the link where they sell those thin stones. I live in Buenos Aires. Or if someone has already bought them, could you give me the link. Thank you very much and happy 2025 to everyone.
Brilliant ❤
what is the square Paul used on the honing guide ? Brand name ?
Are the chisel protectors to protect the human or the edge of the chisel? I always believed it is the latter.
The edge (I think). I use those protectors on my pricey gouges and special chisels etc. On normal chisels I don't bother.
I may have missed it but what are the first two grits? The fine is 1200. is the middle 400 or 600?
As always, great advice. Are plates like these still available? If so, where?
eBay and Amazon is where I have found them consistently.. Under £10 apiece and can be as low as £6
Thanks, Mr.Sellers. You’re at the top of my search list.
Found mine on eBay, from China.
@@Paul.SellersI understand we don’t want to advertise, but what price range are these plates in? Wondering if $60 is what one plate should cost or if all three can be had for less
Could you add a comment about the stropping? I'm not sure what specific angle - if any - that you're holding the chisel when stropping. Is this attempt to add a micro 3rd bevel or are you using a motion that "rounds over" the bevels from the base 25 degrees to something a bit more than the the 30 degree angle you established with the honing guide? Maybe you've expounded on this in a previous video that you could point me to?
Hi Paul, Have you tested this brand long term?
I had a plate from Trend - 400/1200 grit I think. I wore out the 400 side in less than two years of weekend only use to the point where it barely cuts.
Yes, these are far superior to Trend. My Trend versions with the diamond pattern flaked within three months, so never could recommend them.
@@Paul.Sellers Thank Paul. In fact I just found my replacement from Amazon is now flaking so I won't be buying Trend again.
Unless I damage an edge by dropping it etc. I never put my blades , gouges chisels etc on any kind of stone, sandpaper or diamond plate.
All that is ever needed is regular stropping on a leather strop with some stropping compound. I do use a leather/wood stropping wheel occasionally.
No need for anything else and I bet my tools are just as sharp or sharper.
All that edge honing and grinding just wears out your tools. 😊
Sometimes I wonder which chisels I should take to the construction site, a very hostile site. Some cheap ones that I don't mind breaking or some HSS ones that can stand up to heavy duty work.
I would take the cheap ones.
@@kimmosaarinen2780 Thanks for advice
Cheap diamond stones are better than expensive composite artificial stonws?
Like tyrolit or carborundun ones?
Tyrolit are arround 20usd for a 2faces one 400/1200 and 3 diamond are arround 30 from 600/1200/3000
How do you find those diamond plates?
Thank you
I'm curious the dimensions of the plates. A lot offered are 2.5x6 inches. Are they too small?
Valid question, can offer my opinion: No they're not too small, I just bought DMT bench stone that is 2 x 6 inches, I can still sharpen plane irons on that, all though I gotta angle the iron a bit sideways but it does not affect the outcome. Of course I prefer wider plates, but I can live with smaller ones too (it was cheapish for DMT, ~70euros).
Not too small. And remember that though using a honing guide does restrict the length of your stroke and thereby the length of the plates, you can work the guide backwards and so use the whole length of the plates.
@@Paul.Sellers as usual Mr.sellers you are by far the best u tuber for hand tool tutorials..here’s a quick question about that honing guide..wouldn’t those wheels on the honing guide not wear down on the grit of Diamond plates ? And would that not change the guides angle ?
Wish I knew what grits those plates are? Anyone?
Great info thanks!
How is antifog glass cleaner better than, say, water? Trying to understand what type of liquids I should put on diamond stones.
As per Mr Seller’s original recommendation I’ve been using US windshield washer fluid for quite a while. I believe it is water with an added liquid that helps it evaporate, a little bit of detergent, and some anti-rust additive. It works well. More knowledgeable persons may feel free to correct me - as if they ever need encouragement!
Tupperwallace said it all, really. Water works, but somehow it seems to disappear off the plates before that sharpening level is done and yes, you could just add more as you go, but the auto-glass cleaner is about as cheap as water,it's in a convenient spray bottler that outlasts water ten times and a bottle should go for ten years.
Great!
Where can I buy his diamond plates ? What is the reference? Et the polishing paste ? Thanks
Go to Amazon or eBay and enter diamond plates. The ones I go for don't have maker names, just made in China. For compound just enter green buffing compound.
@Paul.Sellers thanks !
Where can I find the thin diamond plates?
Wouldn't epoxy be better for gluing down the plates? As for the strop I really like hot hide glue for leather-wood bonding.
just take the word of 50 years experience when Paul says use contact cement, use contact cement. It is what counter tops and flooring are glued with, it will hold. As far as hot glue, it has limited life span and really doesn't hold together long, Leather workers use contact cement....
@@elund408Wow, as a furniture conservator it's news to me that hide glue has a limited life span and doesn't hold together long.
The piece I'm working on now is dated 1807, a leather faced slant top writing desk. All of it's case joints are still solidly glued with hide glue. The marquetry I'm repairing on it's side aprons is still solidly attached with hide glue too, but a little heat and moisture and I can remove the damaged veneers easily.
The original leather writing surface is still intact and attached with, wait for it... hide glue.
Hot melt glue and hot hide glue are not at all even remotely close to the same thing.
@@mrfirestop415 I missed the hide, all I saw was hot.
What would be the advantage of the epoxy? All that business with the messy mixing, more trash to throw away, more difficult to spread thin and flat. It might be harder under the plate, I suppose.
I used hide glue,it's what I have,seems to be working well
Can someone point me towards where I can buy these plates. I can’t seem to find them anywhere. The choice on Amazon is bamboozling.
There may be different sellers, but I suspect they all come from the same Chinese factory.
eBay consistently has them. They ship from China, about $7 each. They’re not branded.
Can i get a make of plates to use 👍
Anyone have an Amazon or other link for reasonable diamond plates?
Suwajume diamond sharpening plates/Amazon $14
Can someone explain to me why does he sharpen it at 30 and not just keep it flat on the 25 ? it may sound like a silly question I know
A 25º cutting edge is considerably weaker than 30º so when you start chopping the edge lasts longer.
Is this the set?
Sorry. Couldn’t get the photo up. I’ll try again.
No need. I’ve ordered them. Thanks again.
I had an ummmmm disagreement with a chap on a whittling group about the strop, he insisted that the strop just polished a blade, and did not remove any metal 🤦♂ after a few comments I just gave up lol
Great video, and I like how compact that board is
What is the brand of the plates? Thank you
No brand name on them . Different sellers but only one Chinese maker.
Where can I get the plates?
Go to Amazon or eBay and enter diamond plates. The ones I go for don't have maker names, just made in China.
Hello Sir! What are the dimensions of the plates?
170mm by 70mm
Thank you Sir!
Would there be an issue with shavings from each grit sized plate combining with one another whilst sharpening ? Coud you have a routered border separating each grade to catch any shavings and with them being raised this too may help. It may be ott but just a suggestion for mark2 ?
Shavings... Do you mean the grit particles in the slurry from using each plate? I'd wipe the gunk on the chisel off before moving to the next grit. But Paul doesn't do that here. I think I still will wipe them off before moving on. But I also suspect Paul will weigh in with a comment at some point.
@@jimweisgram9185 the technical term is swarf.
@@jimweisgram9185 I think this video is mainly about SETTING of a sharpening system, rather than the actual sharpening process.
He has videos on sharpening process, which you might already have seen.
I am not a woodworker, though I have watched his videos, but it goes without saying that dirt has to be removed in any cleaning process.
@@ratansharma951 This is the correct answer. This is more about how to build a solid sharpening system.
Not at all. The particles on each plate will not transfer by any noticeable amount. The fluid used is not lubrication, as most people say it is. It is to 'float off' the particles to the edge of the plates. At the end of sharpening, you will wipe off all the moisture and take the particles with the cloth or paper towel. It's not at all necessary to wipe between plate changes.
Who makes the guide?
Stanley, same as the blue handled chisels.
Is if you are left handed you would do the opposite?
who has found a good link for the diamond plates he uses?
Thanks very much Paul! Great idea! What are the dimensions of these plates?
3x8"
2.75" by about 6.5"
anyone here know a good place to buy diamond plates? mygreathanks and blessings
eBay from China. Very cheap, good quality.
@@TheMrchuck2000 as long as i am bothering people already, if you have the link please...mygreathanks and blessings😇
❤❤❤
NOOOOOOOOOOW Mr Sellers uploads this... :'("' " '
Hope all is well with you and the family, boss. o7
I think first he mainly introduced the sandpaper process. Now, in his opinion diamond plates are cheaper even for the absolute beginners.
By absolute I mean those who know almost nothing about woodworking.
Mr Paul wants simple techniques to be continued, and for that someone has to BEGIN...
Otherwise it would be...'Once upon a time......'
@@ratansharma951 I don't disagree, what I'm talking about is that if this was uploaded 1 week ago, I could have done this instead of buying all the crap I got for sharpening...
@@chainreaction8977I'm afraid you'll have to evolve your OWN way of sharpening based on your experiences rather than following someone else.
“I don’t know how long you are planning on living”
😂
Guys you worry too much about how long will a 10$ plate last.Your pathetic 40-50 HRC chisels are nothing compared to tungsten carbide lathe insert with its magnificent hardness of 60HRC . And yet cheap lapping 6" disk made the same way as these plates sharpens those and HSS tools(drills ,blanks with 5% cobalt,you name it,it will sharpen it) for 2 years on a cheap bench grinder(i made a back plate out of aluminum for grinder,that was biggest expense,and a plywood table.).
It paid off 10x ,i made enough money to buy 10 more and it costs less than expensive diamond wheel of famous manufacturer.
And yet you worry that you will wear a 10$ plate? What are you trying to do ? Leave it as a legacy to your grand grand grand children?
The strop will last longer than these cheap diamond stones that Paul is introducing
Well, that will be some length of time, so that's great. Mine are ten years old in use and still cut steel very well. I think rephrasing your word choice would work well if you care t: Instead of using the word "cheap", perhaps try inexpensive
Troll ^^^
Mine are great FIVE years later. But you’re the expert, buddy.