I've been looking for a video that explains this for about a week. I searched things like "ripping a board along the face" but I couldn't find anything. Great to know that there's an actual name for this!
Love this channel, I come often to rewatch how to do stuff, some times more than once. I am reswing some boards, but I am not sure my technique is good enough. Thanks James! You rock dude
Nice video, and quite informative. I have done a fair amount of resawing with a normal ripsaw, mostly in pressure-treated lumber to get thinner stock to make long-lasting bird houses and feeders. I think it helps if people think of their ripsaw as a row of tiny chisels, each adding to the groove in the board. As any woodworker knows, the most difficult cut with a chisel is paring across the end grain of a board, whereas sheering end grain at a 45 degree angle is much easier. This is why, as you point out, the saw, after the kerf is well started, the saw should be lowered (when sawing a board held vertically in a vise) so the blade is encountering the board at an angle, and so each tooth is encountering the fibers at an angle rather than straight across. However, what you did not point out is that when cutting with the pull stroke, as one can with a frame saw, the teeth are encountering the wood at an angle even worse than straight across; they are "trying to" lift the fibers out of the wood rather than sheer them off. This leads to nasty chatter and more effort, This is why I do not like ripping with a Japanese style pull saw. Just my two cents.
I went back and "Resaw" your "All Videos from 2015" playlist. Pretty cool to see you start off with not much more tools than would fit in a 5 gal. pail compared to where you are today.
I may need to resaw parts of the video, but for most of it I'll be able to fast forward and just rip right through it. Puns are one of my many vises. Appreciate your humor, without which a video can leave someone quite board. Ba-dump-cha.... :)
Watching you do this James, the work envolved; I couldn't help think of one of my long departed father's sayings. "This was when the ships were wood and the men were iron." cheers...rr Normandy
"Keller" is the german word for basement or cellar, so "basement theory" on your t-shirt made me wonder for a second :) In the last few weeks I thought about getting me a nice old Disston rip saw with some big teeth, learn how to sharpen it and resaw less frustrated than before. Your video came just at the right time and now I'm considering to buy a frame saw first over a ripsaw... I've been around your channel for quite a while now and enjoy your videos a lot! Thank you very much for showing and teaching me the world of hand tool woodworking, Herr Wright. :)
Great info James. I did a ton of re-sawing on my sideboard because it had frame and panel sides and back. Like you said, you can really do quite wide board but it is more time and effort. Still, I no longer am “afraid” or resawing and I love the satisfaction of seeing that one board become two book matched boards. Well done!
Perfect timing on this video. I need to do some resawing of a couple of boards and with your video, I now know the proper technique to use. Thanks for the knowledge.
Great instructional video. I love to watch your style and technique. I made a vice last weekend. A small one. I planed the board that goes against the bench by hand. I also hand planed the 2x6 that is the face board of the bench. Over the years it bowed a little. I am doing more with hand tools because of your videos. I feel much more confident in my abilities to do these tasks. Thanks for your trail blazing!
@@WoodByWright I'm finding myself wishing I had the skills of Kwai Chang Caine... in the second version he would slap his son from a distance. Consider yourself (lightly) slapped! (snicker!)
I enjoyed this video but would not resaw using any hand driven saw nowadays. It isn't the exertion but the time it takes. I built a jig for my circular saw to do resawing and it is so quick I will always use that method in future. I was never great at it anyway, so the jig and circular saw has improved my accuracy as well as being faster. I still found this interesting to watch, so thanks for the upload.
Yep. I don't do it to cut boards in half I do it to have fun in the shop. if I needed to cut boards and half just to cut boards and half I get bandsaw it's a lot faster and easier that way.
First, I think I just found something to add to my workout regimen. Lol. Second, I love seeing that sawdust fly. Great explanation on why someone may want to pull instead of push. Right now I'm limited to a handsaw, but when I build my frame saw, I'm going to try the pull method, just to see.
One advantage of the kerfing plane/saw... Even just one or two passes creates a shallow groove which allows you to rub some wax into to lubricate the saw, more useful a handsaw where the blade can have more friction. While cutting, the saw warms up enough to slightly melt the wax and carry it through the cut. Just like waxing a plane sole.
I like that kerf plane, that's a good idea. I had considered making a plane with a tiny kerf sized plane blade. Seems like it might go faster that way, unless it would break. I would like to make a frame saw, but I don't see any hardware online for holding the blade / the blade itself. Maybe I should just go to an antique store.
I have a large Japanese pull saw that I find comfortable to use two handed, and I plan to try my hand at resawing with it tomorrow, but I imagine that the beast that you used is still faster because it is heavier than a thin-kerf pull saw.
The Japanese made a saw called a whale back saw. It is a bit heavier and thicker but the plate is usually between 8 and 12" tall to give a straighter cut. It's a lot of fun to use.
Even in Japan, those saws can only be found at antique stores. Word on the internet is that they were primarily used for shrine construction. I found a woodblock print that shows their use in pre-industrial Japan. kinomemocho.com/hamono_maebikioga.html
Resawing is when you want to keep both halves some times I will resaw veneers. But if I just want to keep one half then if it is more then 1/4" I will probably resaw it.
Jim I'm not familiar with frame saw, are the teeth directional, if so wouldn't you want to change blade direction on saw to keep from digging wood fibers?
They are rip teeth. and you want them to have a fairly aggressive rake. much less and the speed of the saw would be cut in half or more. the chattering is due to the vice. and it looks much worse on video then it does in person!
Thanks, James, for a great video. I am 69 yr old and enjoy your work so much. How'd you learn all this? I will be making a frame saw this summer. You are awesome.
Ever tried this with a Japanese pull saw? Seems like a two handed grip would make it easier and pulling down at that steep an angle might be better than pushing back up.
yes. I have a friend with a wale back saw for that same thing. (Chop with Chris) nether method is better then the other, just different personal choices and what you are comfortable with.
@@WoodByWright Trying to resaw a 2x6 with a Japanese saw currently, what a tremendous amount of work! Either way it seems to be so, I don't wood work much but damn, I have a new appreciation...
Yep. That works great. But most the time for resign a European would actually use a double beam frame saw. Rather than using a bow saw. You don't see them as much as you used to
@@WoodByWright What's a double beam frame saw? I can get a normal one for 5€ and upwards, so it may be worth a punt. 200€ for the parts for a small Robou seems a bit steep in comparison!
Tried resawing a board 6-inches wide and 30-inches long with a Japanese pull saw. It was a horrible experience because of the line shifting. Is this something that the Western-style saws handle better, or is my technique really just that bad?
most eastern style saws are not designed for resewing. they do make saws for that but you have to look for them specifically. it would be like trying to resaw with a fine tooth panel saw. you can do it but it would take forever. and you would have a tenancy to over control the saw.
Okay. How long did this actually take? How thick was the original board? You went to 1/4” each. Was it 5/8” or 3/4”? Only have a panel crosscut right now. Need to get 1/8” thicknesses out of Western Red Cedar. Do I resaw in the middle and then resaw those or do I try to take 3/16” off the right face and just match through the board getting maybe 4-5 3/16” boards and the flatten and smooth those down to 1/8”?
This cut took me about 20 minutes. As to how thick do you cut it depends on how good you are at the skill. If you end up veering around a bit you're going to want to stay farther away depending on how much your thought tends to wobble. Also dealing with a crosscut saw it's going to be significantly more difficult. It will be considerably slower and it will tend to follow the grain and go offline easily. But working with cedar will be much easier. That's a very fast and easy way to cut. For me if I wanted an 8-in piece I would cut it at about 3/16
Correct me if I am mistaken. I thought a kerfing plane was used to make a 'trough' all the way around the wood so the saw follows the path of least resistance. So, the saw will saw straighter. I don't know where I heard that. Is this true? I need all the help I can get with resawing. (BTW: Resistance is Futile)
a Kerfing plane is a modern invention though rabbet saws are the same thing just a different use. but yes that is the thought that running a kerf all the way around the board does make it a bit easier to cut strait, but the saw can still jump the kerf if the user has bad body mechanics.
@@johnpeeler9388 Here is one of the patents for it docs.google.com/viewer?url=patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pdfs/US52478.pdf Issac from Blackburn Tools has done a bunch of research on the topic and collects them. If I remember corectly he has some info on it on this web site.
Hi James, very helpful video! I just tried resawing by hand the other and was fairly happy with the result but, to my dismay, one of the boards cupped in less than 24h. It that common with resawing? Are there ways to avoid it?
i have to make a frame saw. i tried it with a handsaw and my blade curved a bit and one of my boards is 1/8" thin at one point while the other side has a big hump.
Dear James, I find that after (or even during) the resawing there is some movement in the wood, especially when making pretty thin boards. Is there any way to avoid this or is this just due to the crappy construction pine I'm using?
Do you have a good idea how to handle pinching when sawing with a panel saw, before being able to use wedges? Seems to be a problem with harder wood. I use candle wax but it only helps partially. Thank you for your interesting and enlightening videos :-)
if the board is pinching that much one of two things are happening. 1 it is still too wet opening the new wood to air will cause it to swell and pinch in. dry wood will not twist that fast. 2. the saw kirf is turning in the wood. it can be on the line in front and on the line in the back but in the middle it is out of line. that is most often caused by pushing the saw rather then letting the saw do the cutting. It could also be that your saw does not have enough set though that is rare.
@@WoodByWright Thank you for your answer. I believe that I did manage to push the saw too much. I also didn't steer my saw correctly so the kirf became bended. But the reason for all this could maybe be that I have my "workshop" in a place with high humidity so that the outer parts of the wood twisted inward. I could probably just let the wood be for a while so that it is evenly dry and try again later. I should really get a new place for this :-P
Hey James, really appreciate the informative video. I am curious roughly how long it took you to resaw the board in this video? How much time do you think you save with the frame saw on a board this size vs using a hand saw? Anyway, thanks again for the video. Handy!
This board takes about 20 minutes or so to cut through. A frame saw doesn't necessarily make it faster as it has the exact same teeth between the two saws but it makes it more ergonomic in that you're using your whole body to push it as opposed to one arm. And in that you can push longer without as many breaks so it goes a bit faster.
Came here to learn to saw better.... Mostly just ended up learning that I need to git gud. Lol. Seriously tho, good video, now I know what I need to cut some soundboards out. The only saw I have for this is a japanese saw, but it seems to work well enough as long as I am patient! lol.
I've gotta say, I've never seen someone start a saw, much less a frame, like that when resawing. Do you find it difficult to see, or is there any jumping off the line? My gut also tells me a lot of the chatter you got might be coming from sawing against the grain at the start. Good advice in the vid though!
no as long as the movement is deliberate and quick it starts every time. I start all my saws on the forward stroke. the chatter is due to the vice flexing. the whole board moves back and forth.
If someone was really worried about the chatter, they could keep their cut close to the jaws and move the board up every 6" or so of cutting. That would change the economics and be more strain on your back though, so I would probably just let it chatter 😁
I didn’t realise that panel saws and hand saws are different things, I thought a panel saw a type of handsaw. I knew about rip saw and cross cut saws, but I thought panel saws were just a smaller hybrid. Panel saws are the biggest I can manage and even then for a very small period of time. These tools are beyond my physical capabilities with my difficulties, but I still love learning about them. I’m also very grateful for what I can do compared to others. So general tutorials, on how to use a tool or or doing a regular task is on Wood By Wright. Then specific tutorials, like making the bed, is on Wood By Wright II? Both are fantastic channels. I think I’ll sit back now and wait for someone to correct the spelling the rest of us know you did on purpose. Another fantastic video, and even as a straight man I have to say you looked pretty hunky on the thumbnail.
LOL thanks mark! there are so many things to learn about saws. even though they are simple they are complex. on the main channel I do a live on Tuesday, a tool a demonstration on Thursday, and an artistic fun video on Saturday. On the second channel I put up extra info and a how to video version of the artistic video on Saturday. but I may be moving everything but the artistic video to the second channel soon.
Wood By Wright There’s very few people on UA-cam who put the in the work you do. I watch both channels and will carry on watching them no matter how you balance what you put on each one. I think you are doing a phenomenal job and you are the most helpful woodworking UA-camr I know.
Someday I'd love to have a frame saw, I do all my re-sawing with a hand saw and it works but it looks sooooo much more enjoyable with the frame saw. In my super tiny shop however, there's no place to put one. :(
For the few times in my career as a woodworker when I needed to rip some stock beyond my bandsaw capacity I'd first go all 'round the perimeter with a 10" high speed steel miter- planer blade in stages to the full depth of cut and conclude the process with my good 'ol trust Henry Disston 6 t.p.i. rip saw, ca. 1870's. Finish up on the planer and job done. ☺
I expect many of your viewers were hoping you would reveal a cunning technique for sawing only from one side while keeping the cut square rather than having to turn the work piece at intervals. Though you do mention that turning is required, I feel like this point could have been given more emphasis as not only is it necessary to turn the work piece frequently, it is best done in a in a systematic way such as counting saw strokes. If not the saw will inevitably wander offline on the off-side even when there is a saw kerf there to guide it.
I'll be honest. If I need to resaw anything I'm going to a guy with a resaw machine. It takes quite a lot of skill to be able to end up with boards that are as nice as what you ended up with.
I have a couple videos on steering a saw. best advice is to back up twist the plate so that you can use the set on the teeth to correct the line. Don't keep going when the line goes off stop back up and fix it.
The way I see it: resawing by hand is only masochistic (as opposed to resawing with power tool) when you don't take the accident risk into account. When you do (and especially if you're like me and don't have a band saw), it's not so clear-cut (pun intended). Since it's a hobby, as long as it's not absolutely tedious, I'd rather keep my fingers and work my cardio. Unfortunately my next project requires resawing a good few planks that are three times as long as the one in the video: that would qualify as tedious, alas.
Resaw the video- oh boy, work get to you. Better eat lunch. Na. Resawing is not only good for matched panels[bookmatched], it saves wood, wood that was just too thick to use becomes useful.Aloha!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been looking for a video that explains this for about a week. I searched things like "ripping a board along the face" but I couldn't find anything. Great to know that there's an actual name for this!
glad I could help. let me know if you have any more questions.
A detailed video and SO well-produced! Great work!
Thanks Rex. that is high praise coming from you!
Love this channel, I come often to rewatch how to do stuff, some times more than once. I am reswing some boards, but I am not sure my technique is good enough. Thanks James! You rock dude
Muscle pain, bowing... yup, that's exactly my problem. Thanks for the great tips! Will have to be even more patient resawing the beech board...
Nice video, and quite informative. I have done a fair amount of resawing with a normal ripsaw, mostly in pressure-treated lumber to get thinner stock to make long-lasting bird houses and feeders. I think it helps if people think of their ripsaw as a row of tiny chisels, each adding to the groove in the board. As any woodworker knows, the most difficult cut with a chisel is paring across the end grain of a board, whereas sheering end grain at a 45 degree angle is much easier. This is why, as you point out, the saw, after the kerf is well started, the saw should be lowered (when sawing a board held vertically in a vise) so the blade is encountering the board at an angle, and so each tooth is encountering the fibers at an angle rather than straight across. However, what you did not point out is that when cutting with the pull stroke, as one can with a frame saw, the teeth are encountering the wood at an angle even worse than straight across; they are "trying to" lift the fibers out of the wood rather than sheer them off. This leads to nasty chatter and more effort, This is why I do not like ripping with a Japanese style pull saw. Just my two cents.
I went back and "Resaw" your "All Videos from 2015" playlist. Pretty cool to see you start off with not much more tools than would fit in a 5 gal. pail compared to where you are today.
Thanks. I'm glad I started documenting with my first hand tools. Makes for a lot of fun.
I may need to resaw parts of the video, but for most of it I'll be able to fast forward and just rip right through it.
Puns are one of my many vises.
Appreciate your humor, without which a video can leave someone quite board.
Ba-dump-cha.... :)
Oh. Man after my own heart. Love it.
I've only hand ripped a few boards and had some minor struggles on following the line, so that kerfing plane is looking real tasty to me
You make it look effortless! Of all the things I've done with handtools, this is the hardest and most time-consuming.
Watching you do this James, the work envolved; I couldn't help think of one of my long departed father's sayings. "This was when the ships were wood and the men were iron." cheers...rr Normandy
Lol yup. Sounds like it is about right.
This is the most useful and practical resawing by hand I've ever seen.
Thanks.
"Keller" is the german word for basement or cellar, so "basement theory" on your t-shirt made me wonder for a second :)
In the last few weeks I thought about getting me a nice old Disston rip saw with some big teeth, learn how to sharpen it and resaw less frustrated than before. Your video came just at the right time and now I'm considering to buy a frame saw first over a ripsaw...
I've been around your channel for quite a while now and enjoy your videos a lot!
Thank you very much for showing and teaching me the world of hand tool woodworking, Herr Wright. :)
Tanks. That means a lot. Keller is regerting to the Podcast I am on. Creators Collective. my Cohost pronounces color "Keller"
Is nice to learn from basic , and simple tools
Always a joy to watch your videos, unlike re-sawing!
Lol. Thanks. You've got to have a twisted sense of fun to enjoy it.
Great info James. I did a ton of re-sawing on my sideboard because it had frame and panel sides and back. Like you said, you can really do quite wide board but it is more time and effort. Still, I no longer am “afraid” or resawing and I love the satisfaction of seeing that one board become two book matched boards. Well done!
SO true. when they pop apart it is so rewarding!
Perfect timing on this video. I need to do some resawing of a couple of boards and with your video, I now know the proper technique to use. Thanks for the knowledge.
thanks Frank. my pleasure!
Great instructional video. I love to watch your style and technique. I made a vice last weekend. A small one. I planed the board that goes against the bench by hand. I also hand planed the 2x6 that is the face board of the bench. Over the years it bowed a little. I am doing more with hand tools because of your videos. I feel much more confident in my abilities to do these tasks. Thanks for your trail blazing!
Thank you Jim. that means more then I can say. more fun to come!
James, thanks for the tips on how to know when things are not going well.
My pleasure!
Never thought about flipping the board in the vise. Thanks for the tip. I think itll help Make cutting tenons easier for me.👍👍
Thanks. My pleasure.
Great video thanks for the tutorial. Lumber prices are insane and 1” thick wood is more expensive than 2” thick wood which is crazy to me.
I'm loving the little puns you pop in at the end of your videos!
Thanks. I have fun coming up with those!
@@WoodByWright I'm finding myself wishing I had the skills of Kwai Chang Caine... in the second version he would slap his son from a distance. Consider yourself (lightly) slapped! (snicker!)
I enjoyed this video but would not resaw using any hand driven saw nowadays. It isn't the exertion but the time it takes. I built a jig for my circular saw to do resawing and it is so quick I will always use that method in future. I was never great at it anyway, so the jig and circular saw has improved my accuracy as well as being faster. I still found this interesting to watch, so thanks for the upload.
Yep. I don't do it to cut boards in half I do it to have fun in the shop. if I needed to cut boards and half just to cut boards and half I get bandsaw it's a lot faster and easier that way.
Your explanation made things a whole lot easier for me, thank you
Thanks! my pleasure!
First, I think I just found something to add to my workout regimen. Lol. Second, I love seeing that sawdust fly. Great explanation on why someone may want to pull instead of push. Right now I'm limited to a handsaw, but when I build my frame saw, I'm going to try the pull method, just to see.
Nice. Thanks. Ya I flip it around from time to time.
One advantage of the kerfing plane/saw... Even just one or two passes creates a shallow groove which allows you to rub some wax into to lubricate the saw, more useful a handsaw where the blade can have more friction. While cutting, the saw warms up enough to slightly melt the wax and carry it through the cut. Just like waxing a plane sole.
interesting. I normally just wax the plate of the saw once every 2' or so of re sawing.
The way you were setting that blade in place reminded me of a giant coping saw
Thanks for the explanation, will use this method to make some fretboards!
Sounds like fun.
@@WoodByWright Probably will be, but actually putting them to use will be more fun...
Nicely done, James.
Thanks.
This video was a very good information for me.
Thank you
Excellent explanation and demonstration. Thanks for sharing.
thanks man! my pleasure!
Thanks for this! Really informative!
I like that kerf plane, that's a good idea. I had considered making a plane with a tiny kerf sized plane blade. Seems like it might go faster that way, unless it would break.
I would like to make a frame saw, but I don't see any hardware online for holding the blade / the blade itself. Maybe I should just go to an antique store.
TO make a frame saw and the kirfing plane you can get both from Black burn tools. that is where I got both of my kits.
@@WoodByWright Thanks
This is really helpful! Thank you!
This was very informative! Do you have a video showing how to go from here planing and gluing the resulting boards into a finished panel?
Sure. here id the project I was cutting those for. ua-cam.com/video/9XDKhFyX8XE/v-deo.html
...easiest and simplest? That...that simply isn't how I see this method. Lol. Love your channel.
LOL no one ever said I was right in the head!!
Thanks for sharing this tip. I'm a hobbyist in the good weather so stuff like this is valuable. PS you nodded like Fozzie Bear at the pun at the end 🐻
Thanks man! my pleasure!
I have a large Japanese pull saw that I find comfortable to use two handed, and I plan to try my hand at resawing with it tomorrow, but I imagine that the beast that you used is still faster because it is heavier than a thin-kerf pull saw.
The Japanese made a saw called a whale back saw. It is a bit heavier and thicker but the plate is usually between 8 and 12" tall to give a straighter cut. It's a lot of fun to use.
Even in Japan, those saws can only be found at antique stores. Word on the internet is that they were primarily used for shrine construction. I found a woodblock print that shows their use in pre-industrial Japan. kinomemocho.com/hamono_maebikioga.html
Hey James, how much material do you have to be removing before you decide that you're better off resawing, instead of using a scrub plane?
Resawing is when you want to keep both halves some times I will resaw veneers. But if I just want to keep one half then if it is more then 1/4" I will probably resaw it.
Jim I'm not familiar with frame saw, are the teeth directional, if so wouldn't you want to change blade direction on saw to keep from digging wood fibers?
They are rip teeth. and you want them to have a fairly aggressive rake. much less and the speed of the saw would be cut in half or more. the chattering is due to the vice. and it looks much worse on video then it does in person!
Thank you Sir.🎉
Good tips, James! Thanks!
My pleasure man!
Thanks, James, for a great video. I am 69 yr old and enjoy your work so much. How'd you learn all this? I will be making a frame saw this summer. You are awesome.
Thanks Dan. Woodworking I learned from my father growing up. But hand tools I have learned from several good friends in the industry.
Very informative video.
Ever tried this with a Japanese pull saw? Seems like a two handed grip would make it easier and pulling down at that steep an angle might be better than pushing back up.
yes. I have a friend with a wale back saw for that same thing. (Chop with Chris) nether method is better then the other, just different personal choices and what you are comfortable with.
@@WoodByWright Trying to resaw a 2x6 with a Japanese saw currently, what a tremendous amount of work! Either way it seems to be so, I don't wood work much but damn, I have a new appreciation...
That hand saw looks like a pretty aggressive cut. What is the TPI?
Yep. For resawing you want them to be pretty heavy. This one is five PPI
Thanks for showing that and sharing that, well done
Thanks! my pleasure!
clear and nice performance .😊
Thanks man.
Would you resaw using the European style Zimmermannsäge with the blade tipped over so the board you are cutting clears the central support?
Yep. That works great. But most the time for resign a European would actually use a double beam frame saw. Rather than using a bow saw. You don't see them as much as you used to
@@WoodByWright What's a double beam frame saw? I can get a normal one for 5€ and upwards, so it may be worth a punt. 200€ for the parts for a small Robou seems a bit steep in comparison!
Search for roubo style frame saw it has a beam on either side of the blade rather then a bow above it.
Thank you for clearing that up!
my pleasure!
So, can this be done with the standard cross saw from the hardware shop?
you can, but they are a bit small and it is much harder to keep a cross cut saw on track.
Humm, need to finish my saw, the kerfing plane is complete, find time to get it done ya ok.
Great explation of how to, nice job.
Thanks James. have fun with the saw!
Would it take a long time to rip a 2x6 into two 2x3s?
With the right saw and the skill. 30 seconds a foot. with the wrong saw and no skill... 5-6 minutes a foot.
@@WoodByWright gotcha , thanks 👍
Tried resawing a board 6-inches wide and 30-inches long with a Japanese pull saw. It was a horrible experience because of the line shifting. Is this something that the Western-style saws handle better, or is my technique really just that bad?
most eastern style saws are not designed for resewing. they do make saws for that but you have to look for them specifically. it would be like trying to resaw with a fine tooth panel saw. you can do it but it would take forever. and you would have a tenancy to over control the saw.
Okay. How long did this actually take? How thick was the original board? You went to 1/4” each. Was it 5/8” or 3/4”? Only have a panel crosscut right now. Need to get 1/8” thicknesses out of Western Red Cedar. Do I resaw in the middle and then resaw those or do I try to take 3/16” off the right face and just match through the board getting maybe 4-5 3/16” boards and the flatten and smooth those down to 1/8”?
This cut took me about 20 minutes. As to how thick do you cut it depends on how good you are at the skill. If you end up veering around a bit you're going to want to stay farther away depending on how much your thought tends to wobble. Also dealing with a crosscut saw it's going to be significantly more difficult. It will be considerably slower and it will tend to follow the grain and go offline easily. But working with cedar will be much easier. That's a very fast and easy way to cut. For me if I wanted an 8-in piece I would cut it at about 3/16
Correct me if I am mistaken. I thought a kerfing plane was used to make a 'trough' all the way around the wood so the saw follows the path of least resistance. So, the saw will saw straighter. I don't know where I heard that. Is this true? I need all the help I can get with resawing. (BTW: Resistance is Futile)
a Kerfing plane is a modern invention though rabbet saws are the same thing just a different use. but yes that is the thought that running a kerf all the way around the board does make it a bit easier to cut strait, but the saw can still jump the kerf if the user has bad body mechanics.
@@WoodByWright Bad Body Mechanics is my middle name. I am trying to legally change it.
@@WoodByWright I've never heard the term rabbet saw before, where have you seen that? Any historical texts or colloquial usage?
@@johnpeeler9388 Here is one of the patents for it docs.google.com/viewer?url=patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pdfs/US52478.pdf Issac from Blackburn Tools has done a bunch of research on the topic and collects them. If I remember corectly he has some info on it on this web site.
@@WoodByWright Excellent, thanks very much! The patent is a bit after the time period I work in, so I'm not surprised I was clueless.
Can this be done to resaw wood slices?
Sorry. I'm not quite sure what you mean by wood slices.
Round pieces, I don't know what its called
Hi James, very helpful video! I just tried resawing by hand the other and was fairly happy with the result but, to my dismay, one of the boards cupped in less than 24h. It that common with resawing? Are there ways to avoid it?
That is probably because they were not fully dried. After cutting the inside was exposed to the air and that side could come to equalibriam faster.
Very nice.
thanks!
i have to make a frame saw. i tried it with a handsaw and my blade curved a bit and one of my boards is 1/8" thin at one point while the other side has a big hump.
I have done that a few times. A frame saw can still do that. It isualy comes from pushing too hard.
Dear James,
I find that after (or even during) the resawing there is some movement in the wood, especially when making pretty thin boards. Is there any way to avoid this or is this just due to the crappy construction pine I'm using?
Yup. That is the wood. All wood will change wen cut, but construction lumber will move even more then harder woods.
@@WoodByWright Thanks for answering, I'll try it with hard wood next time. Keep up the great videos, I'm always learning something new with you!
Ive done it with a 7tpi on a 3ft long ash board, took ages.
That would be slow.
You could hold the workpiece in vice on sidewise.
Do you have a good idea how to handle pinching when sawing with a panel saw, before being able to use wedges? Seems to be a problem with harder wood. I use candle wax but it only helps partially. Thank you for your interesting and enlightening videos :-)
if the board is pinching that much one of two things are happening. 1 it is still too wet opening the new wood to air will cause it to swell and pinch in. dry wood will not twist that fast. 2. the saw kirf is turning in the wood. it can be on the line in front and on the line in the back but in the middle it is out of line. that is most often caused by pushing the saw rather then letting the saw do the cutting.
It could also be that your saw does not have enough set though that is rare.
@@WoodByWright Thank you for your answer. I believe that I did manage to push the saw too much. I also didn't steer my saw correctly so the kirf became bended.
But the reason for all this could maybe be that I have my "workshop" in a place with high humidity so that the outer parts of the wood twisted inward. I could probably just let the wood be for a while so that it is evenly dry and try again later. I should really get a new place for this :-P
"Push it, push it real good"
Love that curfing plane.
LOL thanks man!
I'm second...that thumbnail was epic!
LOL thanks. I do like this one!
Like Mr.Chikadee, but another style : splendide and well made videos . Thank you .
Thanks. Love his channel!
Hey James, really appreciate the informative video.
I am curious roughly how long it took you to resaw the board in this video? How much time do you think you save with the frame saw on a board this size vs using a hand saw?
Anyway, thanks again for the video. Handy!
This board takes about 20 minutes or so to cut through. A frame saw doesn't necessarily make it faster as it has the exact same teeth between the two saws but it makes it more ergonomic in that you're using your whole body to push it as opposed to one arm. And in that you can push longer without as many breaks so it goes a bit faster.
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the info James! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
My pleasure.
Came here to learn to saw better....
Mostly just ended up learning that I need to git gud. Lol.
Seriously tho, good video, now I know what I need to cut some soundboards out.
The only saw I have for this is a japanese saw, but it seems to work well enough as long as I am patient! lol.
Good video James :) Regards!
thanks man!
I always tell people that I don't go to the Gym - I just rip boards!
LOL sounds about right
GET RIPPED!
Is that how I get a belly like his?
I've been ripping boards with a handsaw. I'm still waiting for my body of a Greek god to develop.
Hahaha!
Great video …subbed 👍
I've gotta say, I've never seen someone start a saw, much less a frame, like that when resawing. Do you find it difficult to see, or is there any jumping off the line? My gut also tells me a lot of the chatter you got might be coming from sawing against the grain at the start. Good advice in the vid though!
no as long as the movement is deliberate and quick it starts every time. I start all my saws on the forward stroke. the chatter is due to the vice flexing. the whole board moves back and forth.
If someone was really worried about the chatter, they could keep their cut close to the jaws and move the board up every 6" or so of cutting. That would change the economics and be more strain on your back though, so I would probably just let it chatter 😁
@@WoodByWright If it works for you, excellent! I was mainly surprise by starting on the far side of the board.
I didn’t realise that panel saws and hand saws are different things, I thought a panel saw a type of handsaw. I knew about rip saw and cross cut saws, but I thought panel saws were just a smaller hybrid. Panel saws are the biggest I can manage and even then for a very small period of time. These tools are beyond my physical capabilities with my difficulties, but I still love learning about them. I’m also very grateful for what I can do compared to others.
So general tutorials, on how to use a tool or or doing a regular task is on Wood By Wright. Then specific tutorials, like making the bed, is on Wood By Wright II? Both are fantastic channels.
I think I’ll sit back now and wait for someone to correct the spelling the rest of us know you did on purpose.
Another fantastic video, and even as a straight man I have to say you looked pretty hunky on the thumbnail.
LOL thanks mark! there are so many things to learn about saws. even though they are simple they are complex.
on the main channel I do a live on Tuesday, a tool a demonstration on Thursday, and an artistic fun video on Saturday. On the second channel I put up extra info and a how to video version of the artistic video on Saturday. but I may be moving everything but the artistic video to the second channel soon.
Wood By Wright There’s very few people on UA-cam who put the in the work you do. I watch both channels and will carry on watching them no matter how you balance what you put on each one. I think you are doing a phenomenal job and you are the most helpful woodworking UA-camr I know.
@@markharris5771 Thank you Mark! that means more then I can say!
Someday I'd love to have a frame saw, I do all my re-sawing with a hand saw and it works but it looks sooooo much more enjoyable with the frame saw. In my super tiny shop however, there's no place to put one. :(
they do take up a lot of space, but you can always take it apart.
Anyone have a good source for a frame saw blade?
There are links in the description to where I bought mine. Blackburn tools has my favorite but you can also get them from bad Axe saws.
For the few times in my career as a woodworker when I needed to rip some stock beyond my bandsaw capacity I'd first go all 'round the perimeter with a 10" high speed steel miter- planer blade in stages to the full depth of cut and conclude the process with my good 'ol trust Henry Disston 6 t.p.i. rip saw, ca. 1870's. Finish up on the planer and job done. ☺
I expect many of your viewers were hoping you would reveal a cunning technique for sawing only from one side while keeping the cut square rather than having to turn the work piece at intervals. Though you do mention that turning is required, I feel like this point could have been given more emphasis as not only is it necessary to turn the work piece frequently, it is best done in a in a systematic way such as counting saw strokes. If not the saw will inevitably wander offline on the off-side even when there is a saw kerf there to guide it.
That's just cool. I don't care how nerdy it sounds. I've got to measure my upper body ergonomics and make my frame saw.
They are so much fun to play with!
Thumbnail looked like Mac Lethal was about to fast rap about resawing...subscribed.
LOL I like it!
great video, ty so much
I'll be honest. If I need to resaw anything I'm going to a guy with a resaw machine. It takes quite a lot of skill to be able to end up with boards that are as nice as what you ended up with.
That is what I call a good Friend!
Dad joke at the end was great.
I did this thing today with a ryoba on the pretty small plank. It was horrible. Took me hour or more
Oh is that so it's going to take forever. Resawing with small Japanese saws isn't pain. There's a reason they made the large whale back saws.
This is the way we got stock from hardware store 6x1” wood to make guitars back in the 70’s
it is an old and fun method!
Already sawed it.
LOL that is the problem with it!
In fact, if you don't feel rested after reasawing then you are doing it wrong or your saw is blunt
Rub both sides of the saw with candle wax to reduce friction.
Yep. I generally prefer a homemade paste wax but works fantastically if there's any bind in the wood.
I did ...resaw it... and i cross cut it with your other videos ;)
Lol thanks!
You forgot to cover how to fix it if you start drifting... You know, like us humans tend to do. :P
I have a couple videos on steering a saw. best advice is to back up twist the plate so that you can use the set on the teeth to correct the line. Don't keep going when the line goes off stop back up and fix it.
James: "about a 1mm apart"
Everyone:
James: "About a 32nd of an inch"
Americans:
Everyone else: "WhY dON't AMeriCAns KnOW aNd UsE tHE metRIc sYSTem?!"
LOL I know right!
that was funney
I aim to please.
The way I see it: resawing by hand is only masochistic (as opposed to resawing with power tool) when you don't take the accident risk into account. When you do (and especially if you're like me and don't have a band saw), it's not so clear-cut (pun intended).
Since it's a hobby, as long as it's not absolutely tedious, I'd rather keep my fingers and work my cardio.
Unfortunately my next project requires resawing a good few planks that are three times as long as the one in the video: that would qualify as tedious, alas.
What method would you use to cut the slant cuts for these ramps:
i.pinimg.com/736x/7a/ac/f0/7aacf084cf30f9241de1540c2781ad24.jpg
I would do it just like this video but angle the board just a bit to make the cut vertical. mark the lines and cut to the line.
Resaw the video- oh boy, work get to you. Better eat lunch. Na.
Resawing is not only good for matched panels[bookmatched], it saves wood, wood that was just too thick to use becomes useful.Aloha!
Lol thanks Mark
with many expensive kinds of wood, it the best use of 'rare types, too. You can make your own veneers and 'book match the grain.@@WoodByWright
And bookmatched!
alright. Time for me to save up for a better bandsaw :)
LOL a good band saw is a fantastic thing!
The dad joke at the end... nice
Lol thanks!
My dear word. Come use my bandsaw. I’ve seen it once and now I’ve seen it again. I resaw it.
Lol nice man!