Been racing RC for a few years, and I know quite a bit. But I ALWAYS learn something new from you vids. Measuring the brake deadban for consistency is genius. Thanks again!!
Thanks to this video I learned that you can adjust the brake bias by turned the set screw knobs to thread the rod in and out. I had no idea! I’ve been disconnecting and cutting fuel tube for ages
Thanks Adam! I really appreciate all these videos. I have been in the hobby for a very long time but still find a few tips and tricks. I have definitely been in the camp of using too much brake force and was looking for a video to see what others were doing. So glad I came across your video! Thanks again! Loving my OS AD2. Please know that you are appreciated!
Awesome video Adam. As I’m learning to drive faster and faster on the track, I need to use my brakes more and knowing how to set them up and adjust them to my liking is super helpful
I found a way of putting a number on brake force. I use a small hand held torque wrench with a 17 mm socket. I first set my dead band with a feeler gauge at the same way Adam did. I then set my endpoint to 100% for the max brake force. Usually i set it so it's just enough to lock the wheels. I then make sure the bias is 50/50. After i all i need to do is lower my epa for the grip conditions. This way I am sure everything is perfect and always the same. I then tune the bias with the thumbscrews. it works pretty good.
Thanks Adam I’ve been working on my brake game…. The dead band part never knew how to measure. I’ve been using less brake and more of a roll onto than the flick.
Great video. Two suggestion videos. First about parts we need for racing like spare parts to have in home and to have on the races. 2 A video showing the necessary tools and acessories for setup our cars and use during race. Those videos we be helpful principally for new people interesting in race
When doing the brake bias test with the rubber band, do you ever get a rough feeling out of the brakes? Like they're warped? Mine feel as far from smooth as possible. What could cause that? The only thing i could find on it was stuff about full scale cars and the pad material being unevenly embedded onto the rotor
I just remembered my old futaba 3vc had anti lock braking in the menu and would Pump the servo . I wonder if the new radios still have that feature? I will Have yo Check my 7xc. It seems like it would work well with the latest HRS servos .
From your previous video on brakes you used little springs. The link no longer exists can you please share where you get the springs currently? Thank you, great videos!
Thanks for this video ! About the air filter, is it the TLR241039 (for 8X) or the LOSA9150 (for 8T / 8B) ? Bought the TLR241039 but it does not fit as it touch the black plastic piece that protect the fuel tank Thanks
Had a question for the brake disc , I use a scotch brite to clean up the disc when I’m doing a service, but how long do disc last ? Or when to replace is there a rotor thickness ?
But Adam Drake my EPA for brake is only for both front & rear on my DX5C...the other EPA is for carburetor end points..how do i adjust the brakes separately from the front and rear?
Hi Adam! Quick question - for the 170BL servos... They are very difficult to rotate when the power is off. I don't see any sort of fail safe rubber band on the servo yet. Do you add one for these servos? I just purchased one servo to see if I would like to place in all my vehicles, but I am worried about a situation where receiver battery power is lost with the throttle slightly open. The typical rubber band I use isn't strong enough to close.
When you set the throttle EPA, you said it has a 6.5mm venturi. We know the carb will close past the venturi when at idle so this would also mean that if you measure the opening with the throttle throw at 6.5mm, it wouldn't completely clear the venturi at full throttle due to the thickness of the venturi. Would this be of any concern since the throttle never actually reaches that fully open position?
Yes, when setting the throttle linkage and carb opening, I considered the idle gap 0 or 0% throttle. Then open it to the venturi size (6.5mm), it may not be prefect, but gets you in the ballpark without having to remove the filter and the risk of dirt getting into the carb.
Great info! Especially the total brake force (epa). That's a tuning situation I think doesn't get talked about enough, and I feel it can make or break a good handling car pun intended lol. Good video🏎💨💯💪💪👊👊👍👍
I've noticed this on Adams Buggy in several recent videos too. Massive amounts of toe out up front. Probably looks exagerated because it is up on a box as well.
It’s not much toe it, it’s mostly bump steer, when the car is at full droop it looks like a lot, but when you set it on the table it’s probably about -2° of toe out.
Thanks For the great videos as usual. I was hoping to find a video of run on for nitro. Fairly new and last race my car felt like it was accelerating at every corner when I needed to slow down and it was pushing me way out. Ugh. Any help would be highly appreciated.
Bottom end is too rich. Lean it out and lower the idle as needed. JQ has a great hour long video on how to tune an engine and addresses run on and how to fix it perfectly.
Hey man. Just some unsolicited feedback, we can’t see the other side of the calipers. Videos that are foolproof stand out. Sorry, but had to speak my truth.
@@AdamDrake Anytime, big dawg. Just a minor misunderstanding that I had. However, I was still able to make adjustments because I kind of understood the point. Thanks!
![How to Adjust your Brake Bias, and Linkage on your Nitro R/C car [Beginner Tutorial with Ryan Lutz]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PGwtL9ktlRQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Been racing RC for a few years, and I know quite a bit. But I ALWAYS learn something new from you vids. Measuring the brake deadban for consistency is genius. Thanks again!!
Glad to help!
This is the most important tip at all. Setting throttle and break correctly makes the car so much easier to drive. Thanks Adam for sharing!
Thanks to this video I learned that you can adjust the brake bias by turned the set screw knobs to thread the rod in and out. I had no idea! I’ve been disconnecting and cutting fuel tube for ages
My pleasure!
Thanks Adam! I really appreciate all these videos. I have been in the hobby for a very long time but still find a few tips and tricks. I have definitely been in the camp of using too much brake force and was looking for a video to see what others were doing. So glad I came across your video! Thanks again! Loving my OS AD2. Please know that you are appreciated!
Appreciate it, thank you!
Awesome video Adam. As I’m learning to drive faster and faster on the track, I need to use my brakes more and knowing how to set them up and adjust them to my liking is super helpful
My pleasure!
I found a way of putting a number on brake force. I use a small hand held torque wrench with a 17 mm socket. I first set my dead band with a feeler gauge at the same way Adam did. I then set my endpoint to 100% for the max brake force. Usually i set it so it's just enough to lock the wheels. I then make sure the bias is 50/50. After i all i need to do is lower my epa for the grip conditions. This way I am sure everything is perfect and always the same. I then tune the bias with the thumbscrews. it works pretty good.
Does your radio let you set brake travel without having to change epa?
@@alb9022 I have a M17 i just lower my dual rate
Very nice.
Thanks Adam I’ve been working on my brake game…. The dead band part never knew how to measure. I’ve been using less brake and more of a roll onto than the flick.
My pleasure!
Great video. Two suggestion videos. First about parts we need for racing like spare parts to have in home and to have on the races. 2 A video showing the necessary tools and acessories for setup our cars and use during race. Those videos we be helpful principally for new people interesting in race
Great ideas, thank you!
@@AdamDrake Nice! I will still tune to see those videos. Thanks
Exactly what I needed. Thanks for all the great help.
You're welcome!
When doing the brake bias test with the rubber band, do you ever get a rough feeling out of the brakes? Like they're warped? Mine feel as far from smooth as possible. What could cause that? The only thing i could find on it was stuff about full scale cars and the pad material being unevenly embedded onto the rotor
I just remembered my old futaba 3vc had anti lock braking in the menu and would
Pump the servo . I wonder if the new radios still have that feature? I will
Have yo
Check my 7xc. It seems like it would work well with the latest HRS servos .
From your previous video on brakes you used little springs. The link no longer exists can you please share where you get the springs currently? Thank you, great videos!
Mugen will have brake springs in the near future, but you can use the AE springs.
Thanks for this video ! About the air filter, is it the TLR241039 (for 8X) or the LOSA9150 (for 8T / 8B) ? Bought the TLR241039 but it does not fit as it touch the black plastic piece that protect the fuel tank
Thanks
Good info Adam are you going for JRBL at Madera California on July 10?
No, I wasn't able to make it.
Ty Adam great video, very helpful
I'm glad you found it helpful!
Had a question for the brake disc , I use a scotch brite to clean up the disc when I’m doing a service, but how long do disc last ? Or when to replace is there a rotor thickness ?
Hey Adam can u please do a video on the custom air filter holder that u are using on Rhondas buggy in this video.
Just bought me a buggy can't wait to run it
But Adam Drake my EPA for brake is only for both front & rear on my DX5C...the other EPA is for carburetor end points..how do i adjust the brakes separately from the front and rear?
You should be able to do that mechanically with the linkage.
great for us new guys to get a starting point . thanks
My pleasure.
Hi Adam! Quick question - for the 170BL servos... They are very difficult to rotate when the power is off. I don't see any sort of fail safe rubber band on the servo yet. Do you add one for these servos? I just purchased one servo to see if I would like to place in all my vehicles, but I am worried about a situation where receiver battery power is lost with the throttle slightly open. The typical rubber band I use isn't strong enough to close.
When you set the throttle EPA, you said it has a 6.5mm venturi. We know the carb will close past the venturi when at idle so this would also mean that if you measure the opening with the throttle throw at 6.5mm, it wouldn't completely clear the venturi at full throttle due to the thickness of the venturi. Would this be of any concern since the throttle never actually reaches that fully open position?
Yes, when setting the throttle linkage and carb opening, I considered the idle gap 0 or 0% throttle. Then open it to the venturi size (6.5mm), it may not be prefect, but gets you in the ballpark without having to remove the filter and the risk of dirt getting into the carb.
Now what about the antilock break oscillation setting? How does increasing or decreasing my antilock break oscillation effect breaking?
I don't recommend the antilock brakes. It seems to be really hard on the servo.
Great info! Especially the total brake force (epa). That's a tuning situation I think doesn't get talked about enough, and I feel it can make or break a good handling car pun intended lol. Good video🏎💨💯💪💪👊👊👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Very interesting video - was looking for such thing a long time! What would you recomend for the electric version - regarding brake EPA?
With my Tekin RX8 Gen 3 I start with the brakes at 80% on the ESC and the EPA on the radio is usually between 65-70%.
@@AdamDrake Great! Thanks for the info! as always nice support!
how do i find out venturi size for my dynomite .21 / losi 8ight rtr ? this is my first nitro and want to be decent or better at tuning.
You can measure it with calipers.
Doesn't temperature effect the bias during a race?
It shouldn't.
@@AdamDrake does the material used for the discs make a difference? Or do you use pads on metal discs?
Awsome vid like always great info on the breaks keep up the great work
Thank you!
Great video much needed info
Thank you!
Good information, thanks.
My pleasure.
i use dual rate programmed to my dial on m12s. Easy quick brake adjustment.
Thanks for the feedback.
Adam do you recommend plastic or aluminum throttle servo horn?
Plastic for throttle and aluminum for steering.
@@AdamDrake why is that?
I notice the front on her car has a lot of toe out it looks is there a reason for that
I noticed that also, A LOT of toe out. I wanted to ask if this is common. Probably helps keep the outside front from catching ruts.
Makes Turn in at slower speeds faster and smoother. Down side is a car can feel a bit twitchy at high speeds
I've noticed this on Adams Buggy in several recent videos too. Massive amounts of toe out up front. Probably looks exagerated because it is up on a box as well.
Probably because it’s on a car stand. With the suspension compressed it wouldn’t be anywhere near as much toe
It’s not much toe it, it’s mostly bump steer, when the car is at full droop it looks like a lot, but when you set it on the table it’s probably about -2° of toe out.
New to nitro nice video
Thank you!
So helpful thank you
My pleasure!
Awesome 🏆
Thanks
Bobby
Thank you!
Thanks For the great videos as usual. I was hoping to find a video of run on for nitro. Fairly new and last race my car felt like it was accelerating at every corner when I needed to slow down and it was pushing me way out. Ugh. Any help would be highly appreciated.
Bottom end is too rich. Lean it out and lower the idle as needed. JQ has a great hour long video on how to tune an engine and addresses run on and how to fix it perfectly.
My pleasure! Could be rich on bottom and you may want to adjust the clutch setting.
Thumbnail confused me at first lol
:)
Hey man. Just some unsolicited feedback, we can’t see the other side of the calipers. Videos that are foolproof stand out. Sorry, but had to speak my truth.
Appreciate the feedback.
@@AdamDrake Anytime, big dawg. Just a minor misunderstanding that I had. However, I was still able to make adjustments because I kind of understood the point. Thanks!