Great video, should mention droop as well. With the Mugen LW arms they tent to bend so measuring them using the length of the shock can be off. Would love a video on measuring droop especially in the front since pillow ball cars can have so much two out.
A tip I have learned for setting ride height is to make sure the tires have a little dirt/dust on them as if they don't, they can cause the car to stick to the setup board thus giving you a misread-on ride height. This is especially true with new tires. I too use the drop roll method that you suggest Adam to prevent the board stick but a little dust on the tires helps as well. As always thanks for the tips and reminding us of how important the basics are!
You nailed it, great video! Buggy looks awesome as always. I like to check ride height with dirty tires. It helps the tires slide on the setup board throughout the suspension articulation. I like to lightly tap the setup board 4-5 times to help the buggy level out to a happy ride height (or drop and roll as shown in your video). It's kind of important for the front end since pillow ball cars tend to have more track width change throughout the suspension throw compared to a c-hub car. Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad you mentioned about ride height and checking at no, mid and a full fuel tank. In my head I always think a half filled tank would be better but as you said being consistent would be painful.
My problem is im trying to turn a basher, TLR typhon into a race buggy. 3.670g no wheels, body.., heavy. The shock shafts are 4mm instead of 3.5mm, good for bashing terrible for loose low grip dust surface...
Hello Adam Sorry for this left field question... I apologize for my ignorance. Are you or have you considered the popular GT8(onroad converted off-road buggies) class? If so, do you have setup ideas to help with push(common in GT8) in the corners? Best wishes 😊
Dear Adam! Your rear link length measures are done with the mid-large position in the tower? If you go up or down in the tower, that measure must be change to correct canvas. How much more or less you change in each case? Hope to be clear enough!! Thank you
Can I use the MIP1 hi flow bypass piston kit and just leave the six holes that it comes with alone without drilling them and what flaps, should I use what valves what in the front and what in the rear is green in the front and blue in the rear of a good set up
Yes, you can run the 6x1.3 setup, but it will have too much pack for lower grip and bumpy conditions. I would start with clear front and blue rear for most conditions.
@@AdamDrake thank you so much for helping me out with things and I am going to use 5:50 in the front and 500 oil in the rear for both truggy and buggy that should be OK right?
I am running into a small issue with my mbx8r eco - the pin that holds the shocks on the table keeps getting out, I have not used the kit that much ( 4 races ). any advice ?
@@AdamDrake Yes. The pin came off ( twice now ), but the set screw is still in. it might be simply the arm that i have to replace, may be the plastric inside is worn out. i was simply wondering if you had any issues like that, or if it s just me bad luck / ect..
Great video, should mention droop as well. With the Mugen LW arms they tent to bend so measuring them using the length of the shock can be off. Would love a video on measuring droop especially in the front since pillow ball cars can have so much two out.
Not all legends are myth.. Some race amongst us 🏎️💨 Always a pleasure seeing you @ LCRC. Stay well 💪🏻
Thank you very much, great seeing you as well!!
A tip I have learned for setting ride height is to make sure the tires have a little dirt/dust on them as if they don't, they can cause the car to stick to the setup board thus giving you a misread-on ride height. This is especially true with new tires. I too use the drop roll method that you suggest Adam to prevent the board stick but a little dust on the tires helps as well. As always thanks for the tips and reminding us of how important the basics are!
This is a great idea especially if you clean your tires and why the car needs to roll a bit just to be safe. Thank you.
Mister, your videos are SOOOO awesome.... keep shining!
Thank you!
You nailed it, great video! Buggy looks awesome as always. I like to check ride height with dirty tires. It helps the tires slide on the setup board throughout the suspension articulation. I like to lightly tap the setup board 4-5 times to help the buggy level out to a happy ride height (or drop and roll as shown in your video). It's kind of important for the front end since pillow ball cars tend to have more track width change throughout the suspension throw compared to a c-hub car. Thanks for sharing.
Yes sir, thank you very much!
I'm glad you mentioned about ride height and checking at no, mid and a full fuel tank. In my head I always think a half filled tank would be better but as you said being consistent would be painful.
Thank you!
I have always checked rear ride height at the c block for consistency as the chassis wears down but makes sense it would read a bit lower
:)
Love this! Awesome info! Thank you Adam. 🤘🏽
My pleasure!
What if you have front a rear skid plates? Do i measure in front/back of them because they add thickness to the chassis
This is about my Mugen starter box I am using two 2s lipos 30 c 4000mah is that enough power
Hello great video information Adam
Thank yoU!
My problem is im trying to turn a basher, TLR typhon into a race buggy. 3.670g no wheels, body.., heavy. The shock shafts are 4mm instead of 3.5mm, good for bashing terrible for loose low grip dust surface...
And something I learned from first hand experience is that the front ride height changes 3mm from a full tank of fuel to an empty tank of fuel.
Yes sir!
What really?! I never thought about that. I guess I’ll be doing my setups with the tank half full from now on
Hello Adam
Sorry for this left field question...
I apologize for my ignorance. Are you or have you considered the popular GT8(onroad converted off-road buggies) class?
If so, do you have setup ideas to help with push(common in GT8) in the corners?
Best wishes 😊
I have raced the GT class but it's been a few years. If you need more steering I would try reducing the rear toe and running less caster.
Your car looks so awesome. I wish I had your car so bad.
Thank you!
Thanks for the info 👍
My pleasure!
Thank you very much 👍
My pleasure!
Thank you.
My pleasure!
Hi Adam, car dying whilst coming back to idle from power is too rich ?
Thanks!
Probably to lean on the low end and idle is to low
Best wing and body for ebuggy? Thanks adam
JConcepts S15 body and F2I wing and Razor wing as an option.
@@AdamDrake thank you mate your and legend
@@ThatRCGuy1 👊👍
Dear Adam! Your rear link length measures are done with the mid-large position in the tower? If you go up or down in the tower, that measure must be change to correct canvas. How much more or less you change in each case?
Hope to be clear enough!!
Thank you
Depends on your desired camber, but if you are just relocating to another hole, than when done, set camber to what it was previously.
Can I use the MIP1 hi flow bypass piston kit and just leave the six holes that it comes with alone without drilling them and what flaps, should I use what valves what in the front and what in the rear is green in the front and blue in the rear of a good set up
Yes, you can run the 6x1.3 setup, but it will have too much pack for lower grip and bumpy conditions. I would start with clear front and blue rear for most conditions.
@@AdamDrake OK so that’s what I’ll do the clear and blue then it should be OK right even with the holes not drilled
@@AdamDrake also will that same set up be OK for my truggy mbx8tr
Yes@@RonKuhl-rs7ic
@@AdamDrake thank you so much for helping me out with things and I am going to use 5:50 in the front and 500 oil in the rear for both truggy and buggy that should be OK right?
What camber link measurements on truggy
24.5mm
@@AdamDrake thats what it says in the manual I thought you might’ve ran yours a little different like with the buggy other than the manual
@@RonKuhl-rs7ic I do adjust it depending on the felling and track conditions, but that's by baseline.
@@AdamDrake ok ty Adam
Thanks Adam. When you measure your camber/steering links are you measuring total link or exposed turnbuckle?
You would usually measure exposed turnbuckle.
@@ReneLopez-qc2vx thanks
Yes, just the exposed turnbuckle.
I am running into a small issue with my mbx8r eco - the pin that holds the shocks on the table keeps getting out, I have not used the kit that much ( 4 races ). any advice ?
Be sure the set screw engages the shock pin. That’s what keeps it in place.
Are you using the set screws in the arms to secure the pins?
@@AdamDrake Yes. The pin came off ( twice now ), but the set screw is still in. it might be simply the arm that i have to replace, may be the plastric inside is worn out. i was simply wondering if you had any issues like that, or if it s just me bad luck / ect..
Adam question! Do you set your ride height first then camber and toe? Or opposite? Or does it matter?
Ride height first.
Toe and camber will slightly change with ride height so ride height first 😬
Do you set ride height first or last?
1st
Hi mate. Is there any initial value for the downstop in the rear and in the front? I cannot find nothing. Cheers!
👍
Thank you sir!
You might need to replace you’re chassis lol. You said b block is 25mm and d block is 26mm and then you checked c block and said is 2mm different
LOL! It's usually about a 1mm difference from the c to the d block.
@@AdamDrakehaha cheers for the reply ✌️
All these people around with Phones is ridiculous..
?