Great Video. This is the best break in video ive watched so far. That Explanation wasthe best ive heard. Its right and wrong ways to do it but no best way. Planning on graduating from electric to nitro soon. Buying my 1st car in the next few months. Ive been around these for years but never owned my own nitro car. Your engine sounds crispy from the 1st start.
Best 'break in' method is simply to make sure it's not running lean! Factory setting do not guarantee your engine will be running rich for break in. Open both needles 1/4 turn first, you may need to open the idle screw to get it to idle then just have fun driving it! If it's far too sluggish or won't pick up at all you can start leaning both needles 1/8 of a turn at a time just till it stops being pig rich. Then on the second tank you can start tuning. I've seen loads of break in videos where people are being really careful on the throttle or just idling yet the engine is running lean already! You can also do all the break in you like then screw the tuning up and run it lean and ruin it! It only my takes one lean run to harm the engine!
God bless you, Jason. Huge thanks to Adam Drake. Ive said is so many times across UA-cam, he doesn’t have to take the time to do all the great things he does, but he does.
I know, right?!? How awesome is it for Snyder to just be able to call up Adame Drake and be like, "Hey Adam! Just picked up a new Novarossi... What are you doing this weekend? Feel like breaking it in for me? Cool - see ya Saturday!" LOL.
Thank you for this very well made step by step video, also other videos. In my country, there’s very little information about engine break in and tuning. This is so very useful.
What needles do I adjust to let it run rich for the break-in period? I’ve seen people richen up the LSN & HSN but thought those were for when your taking off not just sitting and idling?
this is wild, i always ran mine after one idle tank and ran it hard, idk what everyone else got from their engines life span but i was getting 11 to 13 gallons before i would do a piston and sleeve replacement.
Curious...I saw he had flashpoint fule while breaking it in. Did he use 30% nitro like he usually does when he races. Or he use a lower nitro% w/ higher oil% content?
sweet tutorial adam. youve helped me a lot with all your videos. although i would recommend to new rc drivers to run 2 tanks of fuel at each throttle break in 2 tanks for 1/4 throttle so down the line. 2 tanks at 1/2 2 tanks at 3/4 and 2 tanks at full.
This is a fairly old-school method. I've been reading a lot in the past year or two that a lot of people are getting away from doing any tanks at idle( break it in fast to go fast) Drake's method is very similar to the nitro tuning bible version, I've been doing it for years, and my engines have been very good to me.
Kind of like modern cars these days; no idling the engine through tanks and tanks of gasoline. Could you imagine? Basically, modern day gasoline engines (I know this is a different bird) require a break-in period of easy to moderate driving with short bursts of high-throttle. That's it. This method as seen in the video seems a little bit dragged out and excessive, but that's just my unprofessional opinion.
I know it might be a dumb question but how do you set botom dead center when engine is really hot? From my expirience the flywheel is really hard to move on new engine due to high compression and obviously using glover or bare hands would still cause burns. And other more important quesion do you run it till tank is empty and it shuts or you stop the engine before it runs out of fuel?
Hi Adam Drake i received today a 1/7 scale Kyosho scorpion b- xxl nitro version brand new in box,it is a ready set,not a kit,do i have to break in the engine even when is a ready set,user manual doesn't say nothing about break in procedure,but my past experience with Traxxas Slayer pro which was a ready to run car as well i had to break in the engine following user manual and dvd tutorial
Okay, I'm years late see this video. Am know little about this subject. But learning fast. I'm not judging, just asking Q&A's 1) There is no explaining why are you doing this? Will the engine last longer? How long does the engine last skipping the full break-in? Or it runs better fully doing break-in? Etc. Etc. (you can link me to a page, I've looked, never get full answers. 2) This heater on the head. And okay keep the engine at a temp. I saw you check plug. But never the engine sides. Would not that be wrong temp levels? As less mass. 3). First Tank stop the motor by dragging the end screwdriver on the flywheel? Dang? I guess what you are saying is wanting not to lean out the oil. Why not plug the exhaust pipe end. That would stop it, and no fuel-lean, No? 4) This vid is so old. If I get answers. I will post more questions on this matter. Just 3 or 4 more.
I know I’m 6 months late but yes the engine will last longer as the break in process seat the piston and sleeve. If you decide to skip break in engines will not last very long at all and you will notice you have low compression. The engine head heater, the reason you heat the engine up is because the fit of the piston and sleeve is very tight and the head heater makes the sleeve expand so it puts less stress on the connecting rod. They don’t measure the temp on the top of the plug, they measure by the plug as it provides the most accurate temperature since that is around where the combustion is happening in the engine. The reason most people stop the engine by using the back end of a tuning screwdriver is because plugging the exhaust floods the engine and causes harder startup, and pinching the fuel line causes lean conditions which is why most people just stop the engine by using the back end of a tuning screwdriver. Also they do not drag it on the flywheel, they slowly bump the flywheel to stop the engine. And the reason they put the piston at bottom dead center is to prevent the piston from getting compressed by the sleeve at top dead center since the sleeve becomes smaller as it cools
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have finally decided to move on to the nitro side after playing around with & upgrading electric versions for quite some time now. I'm just trying to figure out what company to go with. I know traxxas has descent cars & their support team is excellent in my experience. But I also want a motor that is reliable and gonna last me a long time. And while I'm very mechanically inclined, being able to work on real engines, this break-in process makes me a tad uneasy with these tiny & fragile looking engines lol 😂.
Preheating will always be a good thing to do for your engine. You will keep pinch longer and therefore get more gallons out of it. If you dont preheat during early stages of break in you will rub the pinch away quicker and the sleeve will not be as tough as one that has been preheated and hardened slowly.
Pug um pug this is not ture bro that engine heater only makes it eaay to start because the thight dit novarossi has to it. ..i never ever used one and i still have engine that have gallons and gallons of fuel in them and great compression to them afyer 7yrs of running only thing i have done is changed a rod or to from break ing and bearimgs every two yrs ..... so no u dont need to have one this will not take your pinch away at all....not sure who u get your info from......and u may not know this but jist breaking in the rigjt way with heat cycleing will make a engine last a hella long time if done right.....and if haveing on to break in where trurw then boat guys would need one but r engine r all water cooled so twll me how i could do it with that.....thanks get facts eight bro. u dont need one for break in or and some people lap the piston sleave befor break in to make break i. easier to start....so it is not as important as u think it is a good break in and after care is key to a long lasting motor
@@hydroracer1642 for the love of god dude proof read what your typing or are you just slow? No one can take your comment seriously when it sounds like a 1st grader wrote it!😂😂😘🍻
Great video! I am considering buying a Nitro as my next RC car; I currently have a Tamiya DT-03 and a Kraton 6s, and I have to say, that electric kinda gets boring after a while :P
should i do this or the traxxas method for a new revo 3.3? im new to nitro and torn between them. Both seem to have valid arguments, id like to hear both sides.
@@illmatic_95 that would mean 12 tanks of fuel.. traxxas says 5 is sufficient. They also explicitly recommend against idling on a stand for break in. They want to drive with varying throttle levels and adjust the high speed needle accordingly. They dont want you to touch the low speed needle (for general tuning) until tank 6, where its fully broken in.
kelpshake421 Traxxas method is the most simplified stupid proof method of breaking in. All you really need to do is create a custom form between the piston and sleeve which is done by heating and cooling the methods.
Turn the engine both ways by the flywheel until you feel compression and go somewhere in the middle. The flywheel should spin back and forth freely. You can also take out the glow plug and look at when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke
Its a good idea to change the plug after break in. Since break in is typically run rich, it can foul the plug. Changing the plug out before putting a race tune on it can help to avoid headaches down the road.
I have never had to seal any of my engines. I think it really depends on the brand of engine though. Some can benefit from it while others don't need it.
I've bought a LRP ZR32 spec2 for a Hobao MT so that should be decent quality.. I only asked due to the macstar 28 6p had a airleak from the factory round the carb neck , I think it's a casting issue but silicone sealing it worked a treat now runs perfect... I'll go by the mantra if it ain't broke don't fix it cheers ``o=o¬ RCYAL8R
Hi Adam,need to ask,after running the 4 idle tank,can the 2nd process of running the 30%,70% and 95% be done on the next day?as 4 idle tank already consume few hours,thanks.
glen green ....what tips u need brother i now run rc boats last seven yrs...check out my channel and boats and after care and storage for marine engine....when bearking in a marine engine do the sam as he dis but u need to put a load on them do not just bench run the the first four tanks run rich but make sure u have a load on it and do not hook water line up while breaking in this will help put heat in engine if u have ? hit me ony page
Thanks for the reply mate. So to put load on engine should I bench mount the engine then run a belt off the flywheel to something? Or any suggestions about applying load? And NO water cooling during break in? Where I live is usually 34 degrees Centigrade during the day. Only takes 1-2 minuets for engine to get really hot.
Doctor who, the dynamite .28 is the Same engine. The 454 doesn't have the pin in the crank for the roto start. it has the solid back plate for the bump box. I used my old crank from the mock .26 so the roto would work.
Jason - I know you don't usually reply to (read?) old threads, but perhaps someone else might see this question and offer up a response. This break-in method is being used for a big block engine. Would this equally apply to a small block? I have 3 O.S. engines for my RC10GT's... a .12, .15, and .18 - all CV-R or CV-RX. Since these are very difficult to find parts for, I want to make sure they last as long as possible and logic says that starts with a good break-in. Thanks!
You will have to break in the engine, but it's not as difficult or involved since the compression on those engines is lower. You can probably get away with letting the engine run at idle to low throttle for a few tanks. I had to do this with my 30-size heli.
VestedUTuber ....it doesnt matter u can break in with prop on it but compression is about the same depending on what engine u get ...so ya they r....15yrs plus here in nitro planea cars and boats
teimo puisma my brother and I used a heat gun to heat the motor up to get it ready loose enough to turn over. You can burn up a starter box trying to turn over a new cold engine.
this is a little much but, to each his own. its your money at the end of the day. I do first tank idle. easy and rich for the next 3 then tune it every time I run it. I always start rich to be safe. never had an issue due to my tuning. Happy racing everyone. I also always use after run oil. keep that top end lubricated.
I need help when it comes to starting my nitro car, I can start it fine but after 4 or 5 seconds, it’ll mysteriously rev higher, I don’t wanna risk running it as I don’t want to break the engine. Is it normal for my engine to do this and if not, is there a way to fix it?
If you're going full throttle and let off and it raises idol immediately your high side is lean if you let off that idols low and then raises after about 4 seconds your low needles lean
hey jason curious if you guys use 20% or 30 for break in? know some companys suggest using 20% fuel for break in but gord said they use 30%, curious what you and adam use
You should break in with the fuel you plan on using in that engine in general. It helps with tuning if you're using the same fuel every time you run the engine, since it means you have one less variable to deal with.
As long as you can spin the flywheel back and forth you’re good. If you want exact bottom dead center than spin the flywheel till you feel the compression (or resistance) and then back off 1/4-1/2 a turn
i to have broke in many novarossi car and boat engines.....i do nd it is takes about 13 tanks or just over a gallon of fuel or more....i have never just let the sit and idle with a headwamer on it ...the only reason i see useing that for is for a eaay start because the piston and liner r such a tight fit in the novas, and i alway replace the rod after break in to because. it. becomes lose during break in.....any way for my break i rum my frist four tanks super rich and run at idle to 1/4 thorttle for the first four tanks and then i lean out 1/16 for the next two tanks running 1/4 to 1/2 throttle for next two then i lean again another 1/16 for two more tanks run 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for them to tanks.....cool down of course with piston bdc for every cool down then i run more tanks with out leaning out until ahe starts to losen up and get on pipe and drop of.....most the time it takes me 13 or more tanks dor break in and i have novas and o.s and thunder tigers that have been running great the last seven yrs....and only maintenance i do is afyer care for all my motors and change the bearings about every two yrs that whay works for me and always has.......this is a great vid for people who want break in tips from a pro and not some dummy that plays with cheap ass redcats and cant even break in the right way and starts to bash after one tank at idle that is totally bs... dont do it that way fallow this guys way...it may be long but in the end u will be super happy u did it that way. . if u dont have a engine heater dont worry it not a complete need for break in....great video adam...keep up great work
under the car you can reach the fly wheel with your finger and roll it down till it will go back and forth freely. If its stuck, and sometimes this happens when the engine is very new you can use a screw driver to roll it back. However doing this you need to be cautious as not to dig or mess up your fly wheel Always make sure you have enough heat in the vehicle and its less likely to get stuck at the top of the stroke.
My dad told me run the first few tanks real rich rev the engine up and down each tank a little more rpm then run and tune it like how you plan to run it, works for me. My O.S. and Dynamite engines run like raped apes I can't keep tires on the buggies ' I am working on the Truggies tires now. Maybe not the best way, but dad was right. He has been doing this since the lat 50's early 60's.
This is titled as Engine Break-in... However there was no attention to the settings on the Carburetor, the High needle, low needle, and mid needle! That is the most important information that I thought would have been explained... Such a lack of actual very important information!
I used this method on my Traxxas 3.3...worked well for me
Great Video. This is the best break in video ive watched so far. That Explanation wasthe best ive heard. Its right and wrong ways to do it but no best way. Planning on graduating from electric to nitro soon. Buying my 1st car in the next few months. Ive been around these for years but never owned my own nitro car. Your engine sounds crispy from the 1st start.
Best break in video of all time. I use the procedure for all my engines, and I like it very informative video 💯👏 I am doing my four tanks idle now
Best 'break in' method is simply to make sure it's not running lean! Factory setting do not guarantee your engine will be running rich for break in. Open both needles 1/4 turn first, you may need to open the idle screw to get it to idle then just have fun driving it! If it's far too sluggish or won't pick up at all you can start leaning both needles 1/8 of a turn at a time just till it stops being pig rich. Then on the second tank you can start tuning. I've seen loads of break in videos where people are being really careful on the throttle or just idling yet the engine is running lean already! You can also do all the break in you like then screw the tuning up and run it lean and ruin it! It only my takes one lean run to harm the engine!
Awesome video!
Thanks for the video. About 15 years ago I got the pleasure to race with Adam, really a standup guy!
thanks ! i needed a good break-in method .coming from a Pro..
good luck on your next races..!
God bless you, Jason. Huge thanks to Adam Drake. Ive said is so many times across UA-cam, he doesn’t have to take the time to do all the great things he does, but he does.
I know, right?!? How awesome is it for Snyder to just be able to call up Adame Drake and be like, "Hey Adam! Just picked up a new Novarossi... What are you doing this weekend? Feel like breaking it in for me? Cool - see ya Saturday!" LOL.
No kidding. Still using this knowledge today!! Thanks Adam!
Thanks for these videos. Adam Drake is a legend
Thank you for this very well made step by step video, also other videos. In my country, there’s very little information about engine break in and tuning. This is so very useful.
Hello! What is the name of the device for starting the engine at 3:45 - 3:55 ? Please give me a link to the seller.
It’s a starter box. Amainhobbies has multiple in stock. The protek sure start is the best one for its price
I do it very similar but never let my tank run completely empty so it doesn't lean out, rather use a timer say 5 mins per tank
What needles do I adjust to let it run rich for the break-in period? I’ve seen people richen up the LSN & HSN but thought those were for when your taking off not just sitting and idling?
this is wild, i always ran mine after one idle tank and ran it hard, idk what everyone else got from their engines life span but i was getting 11 to 13 gallons before i would do a piston and sleeve replacement.
hello Adam, in a newer video you teach a diffent way to breakin, whats the best way to do it? this one or the newer version video? tks
Thanks mate
Got my first ad02 going today
You guys are awesome, thank you for bringing this passion to us all...elevates our game at the club tracks too!
how much ambient temperature in this video? is ambient temperature affect?
and what kind glow plug & nitro fule he using.
thanks
Should I heat cycle between the first four idle tanks?
Curious...I saw he had flashpoint fule while breaking it in. Did he use 30% nitro like he usually does when he races. Or he use a lower nitro% w/ higher oil% content?
Same question Im about to break in my motor.... I use 30% for racing but aim wondering if I should use 20% nitro for break in.
I believe he’s using flashpoint 30% race blend which is what he races with
And FUEL, super important.
thanks for the video!
sweet tutorial adam. youve helped me a lot with all your videos. although i would recommend to new rc drivers to run 2 tanks of fuel at each throttle break in 2 tanks for 1/4 throttle so down the line. 2 tanks at 1/2 2 tanks at 3/4 and 2 tanks at full.
Hello Friend same procedure for the onroad engines?
Cheers Thanks For Sharing!
This is a fairly old-school method. I've been reading a lot in the past year or two that a lot of people are getting away from doing any tanks at idle( break it in fast to go fast) Drake's method is very similar to the nitro tuning bible version, I've been doing it for years, and my engines have been very good to me.
Kind of like modern cars these days; no idling the engine through tanks and tanks of gasoline. Could you imagine? Basically, modern day gasoline engines (I know this is a different bird) require a break-in period of easy to moderate driving with short bursts of high-throttle. That's it. This method as seen in the video seems a little bit dragged out and excessive, but that's just my unprofessional opinion.
I know it might be a dumb question but how do you set botom dead center when engine is really hot? From my expirience the flywheel is really hard to move on new engine due to high compression and obviously using glover or bare hands would still cause burns. And other more important quesion do you run it till tank is empty and it shuts or you stop the engine before it runs out of fuel?
Hi Adam Drake i received today a 1/7 scale Kyosho scorpion b- xxl nitro version brand new in box,it is a ready set,not a kit,do i have to break in the engine even when is a ready set,user manual doesn't say nothing about break in procedure,but my past experience with Traxxas Slayer pro which was a ready to run car as well i had to break in the engine following user manual and dvd tutorial
I was told d to break in a motor as fat as possible and tune it leaner after the 1st 4 or 5 tanks.
It's okay to leave the head warmer on when running the 4 tanks of idel and 4 tanks of parking lot running?
How can i make rtr faster ...?
Do you have a video how put gear
What about TRX 3.3 engine and different nitro fuels to break in? I have anew engine because stock one was bad.
Whats your thoughts on using oil additives? Using flash point fuel 30% is good enough?
Hey Jason, does raw speed inc. plan on making sct tires in the future?
Okay, I'm years late see this video. Am know little about this subject. But learning fast. I'm not judging, just asking Q&A's
1) There is no explaining why are you doing this? Will the engine last longer? How long does the engine last skipping the full break-in? Or it runs better fully doing break-in? Etc. Etc. (you can link me to a page, I've looked, never get full answers.
2) This heater on the head. And okay keep the engine at a temp. I saw you check plug. But never the engine sides. Would not that be wrong temp levels? As less mass.
3). First Tank stop the motor by dragging the end screwdriver on the flywheel? Dang? I guess what you are saying is wanting not to lean out the oil. Why not plug the exhaust pipe end. That would stop it, and no fuel-lean, No?
4) This vid is so old. If I get answers. I will post more questions on this matter. Just 3 or 4 more.
I know I’m 6 months late but yes the engine will last longer as the break in process seat the piston and sleeve. If you decide to skip break in engines will not last very long at all and you will notice you have low compression.
The engine head heater, the reason you heat the engine up is because the fit of the piston and sleeve is very tight and the head heater makes the sleeve expand so it puts less stress on the connecting rod. They don’t measure the temp on the top of the plug, they measure by the plug as it provides the most accurate temperature since that is around where the combustion is happening in the engine.
The reason most people stop the engine by using the back end of a tuning screwdriver is because plugging the exhaust floods the engine and causes harder startup, and pinching the fuel line causes lean conditions which is why most people just stop the engine by using the back end of a tuning screwdriver. Also they do not drag it on the flywheel, they slowly bump the flywheel to stop the engine. And the reason they put the piston at bottom dead center is to prevent the piston from getting compressed by the sleeve at top dead center since the sleeve becomes smaller as it cools
@@nitrogas5719 thxs.
Rob B no problem 😃
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have finally decided to move on to the nitro side after playing around with & upgrading electric versions for quite some time now.
I'm just trying to figure out what company to go with. I know traxxas has descent cars & their support team is excellent in my experience. But I also want a motor that is reliable and gonna last me a long time. And while I'm very mechanically inclined, being able to work on real engines, this break-in process makes me a tad uneasy with these tiny & fragile looking engines lol 😂.
Do you have to tune and break in nitro motor or what I really need to know thx
Very nice method! Great cast👍🏻👍🏻
should I/do I need to keep preheating the engine before running after the first tank?
Preheating will always be a good thing to do for your engine. You will keep pinch longer and therefore get more gallons out of it. If you dont preheat during early stages of break in you will rub the pinch away quicker and the sleeve will not be as tough as one that has been preheated and hardened slowly.
Pug um pug this is not ture bro that engine heater only makes it eaay to start because the thight dit novarossi has to it. ..i never ever used one and i still have engine that have gallons and gallons of fuel in them and great compression to them afyer 7yrs of running only thing i have done is changed a rod or to from break ing and bearimgs every two yrs ..... so no u dont need to have one this will not take your pinch away at all....not sure who u get your info from......and u may not know this but jist breaking in the rigjt way with heat cycleing will make a engine last a hella long time if done right.....and if haveing on to break in where trurw then boat guys would need one but r engine r all water cooled so twll me how i could do it with that.....thanks get facts eight bro. u dont need one for break in
or and some people lap the piston sleave befor break in to make break i. easier to start....so it is not as important as u think it is a good break in and after care is key to a long lasting motor
@@hydroracer1642 for the love of god dude proof read what your typing or are you just slow? No one can take your comment seriously when it sounds like a 1st grader wrote it!😂😂😘🍻
This video was conducted in Fontana CA, me and my brother go to the same area to run our T-Maxx’s.
Correct! Enjoy!
thanks dudes! breaking in my dynamite .19 using this method
Great video! I am considering buying a Nitro as my next RC car; I currently have a Tamiya DT-03 and a Kraton 6s, and I have to say, that electric kinda gets boring after a while :P
Good content lately man!
what percentage of oil and nitro is best for breaking in a nitro engine?
so no adjustments on the main needle over the half gallon .
Awesome tips! Anymore bloopers or cut scenes?
Mentioning on the tank 1 tank 2,3 and 4, meaning that we run the 1st tank until finish then fill up new fuel for the tank 2 is it?
Don't let the engine go dead, fill tank while it's still running as tank gets almost empty each of the 4 tanks
So 4 tanks at idle before any throttle
What’s a good page for 1/8 latemodel. I raced real modifieds . N I’m getting into 1/8 latemodels n modifieds. Thanks for the help
should i do this or the traxxas method for a new revo 3.3? im new to nitro and torn between them. Both seem to have valid arguments, id like to hear both sides.
kelpshake421 any heat cycling of the engine is sufficient enough for an engine. Should take a minimum of half a gallon to break in the engine
@@illmatic_95 that would mean 12 tanks of fuel.. traxxas says 5 is sufficient. They also explicitly recommend against idling on a stand for break in. They want to drive with varying throttle levels and adjust the high speed needle accordingly. They dont want you to touch the low speed needle (for general tuning) until tank 6, where its fully broken in.
kelpshake421 Traxxas method is the most simplified stupid proof method of breaking in. All you really need to do is create a custom form between the piston and sleeve which is done by heating and cooling the methods.
@@illmatic_95 well if its "stupid proof" how is this method of any more benefit? any more torque/hp? longer lifespan?
What happens if i run more tanks each cycle ? For example 4-6 idle, then 3-4 tanks each step ?
Was he talking ⁰ in f or c?
Where you located
Is there a simple way to know the piston is at bottom dead center?
Turn the engine both ways by the flywheel until you feel compression and go somewhere in the middle. The flywheel should spin back and forth freely. You can also take out the glow plug and look at when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke
Should you change your glow plug after the break in tanks are done and you start tuning?
Its a good idea to change the plug after break in. Since break in is typically run rich, it can foul the plug. Changing the plug out before putting a race tune on it can help to avoid headaches down the road.
Would you also secondary seal an engine with silicone when it's new to stop any future air leaks? Cheers for the answer ``o=o¬
I have never had to seal any of my engines. I think it really depends on the brand of engine though. Some can benefit from it while others don't need it.
I've bought a LRP ZR32 spec2 for a Hobao MT so that should be decent quality.. I only asked due to the macstar 28 6p had a airleak from the factory round the carb neck , I think it's a casting issue but silicone sealing it worked a treat now runs perfect... I'll go by the mantra if it ain't broke don't fix it cheers ``o=o¬ RCYAL8R
if the engine is sit down or turn it up to cool down the engine if it's too hot
Hi Adam,need to ask,after running the 4 idle tank,can the 2nd process of running the 30%,70% and 95% be done on the next day?as 4 idle tank already consume few hours,thanks.
I wonder how many gallons You get out with this Break in method?
Hi, thanks for making this video. Can I ask for some tips to breakin .91 marine engines for a boat? Thank you for any help
glen green ....what tips u need brother i now run rc boats last seven yrs...check out my channel and boats and after care and storage for marine engine....when bearking in a marine engine do the sam as he dis but u need to put a load on them do not just bench run the the first four tanks run rich but make sure u have a load on it and do not hook water line up while breaking in this will help put heat in engine if u have ? hit me ony page
Thanks for the reply mate. So to put load on engine should I bench mount the engine then run a belt off the flywheel to something? Or any suggestions about applying load? And NO water cooling during break in? Where I live is usually 34 degrees Centigrade during the day. Only takes 1-2 minuets for engine to get really hot.
Are you leaning the engine at all during the four tanks of running the car on the ground ?
no
Adams the man
Nice video!
Hey Adam what's a good run time for a 1/8 nitro buggy with a .21?
4 tanks at idle?
awesome video man and it's even more awesome because I know that Park!
is breaking in a gas engine different?
Great video! 👍👍👊
Just bought a new 454 for my lst, I have no clue. Thanks so much!
Where did you buy the losi 454 engine? Can't find it anywhere available....
Doctor who, there discontinued. I bought mine from a eBay seller, probably the last one on the planet.
Doctor who, the dynamite .28 is the Same engine. The 454 doesn't have the pin in the crank for the roto start. it has the solid back plate for the bump box. I used my old crank from the mock .26 so the roto would work.
@@acerig4675 Thank you. I'm gonna give the dynamite .28 a try. My 454 is still the original engine but it has low compression.
I've always had good luck with the Traxxas method👍
What's the Traxxas method?
dsab94 a crap method
do you have to break in the engine every time you use the car or just for the first time you use it?
For when you first use it.
@rc car club no need to change plug, ive ran a plug after break in for upto 4 gallons before needing to change
Great stuff gentlemen, thank you for your excellent content.
I just got a rex legend 4, thank you so much for making this video !
Very cool. Enjoy.
I got a Rex legend 7 On
Jason - I know you don't usually reply to (read?) old threads, but perhaps someone else might see this question and offer up a response. This break-in method is being used for a big block engine. Would this equally apply to a small block? I have 3 O.S. engines for my RC10GT's... a .12, .15, and .18 - all CV-R or CV-RX. Since these are very difficult to find parts for, I want to make sure they last as long as possible and logic says that starts with a good break-in. Thanks!
This method works on any engine and big or small doesn't matter
Cool video. More nitro content would be awesome
Thank you for information bro👍 amazing
I am just getting into nitro rc planes is this something I'll need to do with a nitro plane engine ?
You will have to break in the engine, but it's not as difficult or involved since the compression on those engines is lower. You can probably get away with letting the engine run at idle to low throttle for a few tanks.
I had to do this with my 30-size heli.
VestedUTuber ....it doesnt matter u can break in with prop on it but compression is about the same depending on what engine u get ...so ya they r....15yrs plus here in nitro planea cars and boats
Is that the AC or DC engine heater, sorry if stupid question
Connor dc mate, runs off lipo battery
Doesn't matter, but that is not a stupid question.
Do you really need a engine heater if you are a beginner?
teimo puisma my brother and I used a heat gun to heat the motor up to get it ready loose enough to turn over. You can burn up a starter box trying to turn over a new cold engine.
@@DreCargill93 okey thanks👍
great vid
excellent video
Beat it and seat it! That’s how I do it. Just keep it rich.
How can I change nitro %% 30 to 20 my Local RC store don't have 30%
Great video
Great video! Gotta take your time breaking in your engine, difference between a 15 gallon engine and a 8 gallon engine.
this is an rc
this is a little much but, to each his own. its your money at the end of the day. I do first tank idle. easy and rich for the next 3 then tune it every time I run it. I always start rich to be safe. never had an issue due to my tuning. Happy racing everyone. I also always use after run oil. keep that top end lubricated.
I need help when it comes to starting my nitro car, I can start it fine but after 4 or 5 seconds, it’ll mysteriously rev higher, I don’t wanna risk running it as I don’t want to break the engine. Is it normal for my engine to do this and if not, is there a way to fix it?
Low needle is lean
If you're going full throttle and let off and it raises idol immediately your high side is lean if you let off that idols low and then raises after about 4 seconds your low needles lean
Thanks mate, really needed it.
hey jason curious if you guys use 20% or 30 for break in? know some companys suggest using 20% fuel for break in but gord said they use 30%, curious what you and adam use
You should break in with the fuel you plan on using in that engine in general. It helps with tuning if you're using the same fuel every time you run the engine, since it means you have one less variable to deal with.
You never explained how to make sure the piston was at bottom dead center
As long as you can spin the flywheel back and forth you’re good. If you want exact bottom dead center than spin the flywheel till you feel the compression (or resistance) and then back off 1/4-1/2 a turn
Nice video son of Ja
So we just idle it for 4 tanks????
did you watch the video
Pug yea but I just wanna make sure, do you got any answers??
Yes he idles 4 tanks through the engine
i to have broke in many novarossi car and boat engines.....i do nd it is takes about 13 tanks or just over a gallon of fuel or more....i have never just let the sit and idle with a headwamer on it ...the only reason i see useing that for is for a eaay start because the piston and liner r such a tight fit in the novas, and i alway replace the rod after break in to because. it. becomes lose during break in.....any way for my break i rum my frist four tanks super rich and run at idle to 1/4 thorttle for the first four tanks and then i lean out 1/16 for the next two tanks running 1/4 to 1/2 throttle for next two then i lean again another 1/16 for two more tanks run 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for them to tanks.....cool down of course with piston bdc for every cool down then i run more tanks with out leaning out until ahe starts to losen up and get on pipe and drop of.....most the time it takes me 13 or more tanks dor break in and i have novas and o.s and thunder tigers that have been running great the last seven yrs....and only maintenance i do is afyer care for all my motors and change the bearings about every two yrs that whay works for me and always has.......this is a great vid for people who want break in tips from a pro and not some dummy that plays with cheap ass redcats and cant even break in the right way and starts to bash after one tank at idle that is totally bs... dont do it that way fallow this guys way...it may be long but in the end u will be super happy u did it that way. . if u dont have a engine heater dont worry it not a complete need for break in....great video adam...keep up great work
Missed a few points in the vid but still a good vid none the less.
HOW WILL I PUT THE PISTON AT BOTTOM DEAD CENTER?
under the car you can reach the fly wheel with your finger and roll it down till it will go back and forth freely. If its stuck, and sometimes this happens when the engine is very new you can use a screw driver to roll it back. However doing this you need to be cautious as not to dig or mess up your fly wheel Always make sure you have enough heat in the vehicle and its less likely to get stuck at the top of the stroke.
Take the piston out of the motor and put it underneath the engine
Lerroy lol
I usually have to readjust my card while running the first tank of fuel 😮😊
should you let the fuel run completely out and the engine stop on its own?
no you dont want it to lean out on the first tanks. Especially with such a big idle gap the engine will rev very high
where can I get a engine heater?
Derek Mckenzie amain
My dad told me run the first few tanks real rich rev the engine up and down each tank a little more rpm then run and tune it like how you plan to run it, works for me. My O.S. and Dynamite engines run like raped apes I can't keep tires on the buggies ' I am working on the Truggies tires now. Maybe not the best way, but dad was right. He has been doing this since the lat 50's early 60's.
awesome vid :)
Damn I have been breaking in engines hella wrong
Did you pick them up HaHaHa🤣😜✌🤟🤘
This is titled as Engine Break-in... However there was no attention to the settings on the Carburetor, the High needle, low needle, and mid needle! That is the most important information that I thought would have been explained... Such a lack of actual very important information!
Break in, not tuning
It Varys from engine to engine and also depends on the weather, lots of factors to put into place
You only use factory settings for break in proceedured, give or take a minor tick.
good video but yall look like yall living in 2006
Twobigmad.🤗🤗😁😁