My truck did the same... Aluminum heads on iron block. Thanks ford! The updated heads / long block come with iron heads. 3.0v6 It was cheapest to get a factory long block from ford that they failed to install the pilot Bearing when they installed it. Before my time/ capabilities/ location.
Im not familiar with this particular truck, but due to the condition of that piston, I would want to also replace piston heads, rings, and hone the cylinders too, hopefully leaving the block in the car and pulling oil pan(will need cleaning anyways), then pull oil pump and connection rod caps to get pistons out the the top. Chances are the rings in that rusty cylinder are rusted in place on the piston head. And, it would be a pain to hone the cyl smooth with the piston still in. Plus, then you should have great compression after the job and get better gas mileage. If you pull the pan and clean it, and maybe wipe down the lower chamber with a rag, you should be able to get out most of the coolant, but I would change the oil several times, first time after idling it for 10 minutes, second time after taking it for a drive, 3rd time after a tank of gas, mainly to get hone grit out (dont forget to put a towel over the crank before you hone, and wipe out after, rinse with kerosene), and secondly to get coolant out. The moisture itself will bake out after being run normally hot for a few days. I also like to use a pressure washer to blast out the coolant ports in the exposed block surface.
Get as much a u can including oil pan Then start putting back together Put the cheapest oil n filter u can find N run for one or two days run some engine flush n replace with correct oil filter Great luck
Where did you put your jack stands? I usually have mine under the front cross member or the spots for the stock jack on the lower control arms. I don’t trust the covers for torsion bar keys.
My truck was running out of oil but didnt see any leaks, smelled oil really bad,then it started smoking so i called for a wrecker. I thought the head gasket, mainseal, block or oilpan were beyond gone. But My dad told me where the leak was actually coming from. Bolts loosened up under pan and thermostat area has a sealing issue. Ford even mentions it somewhere i read. Truck started running better. The little bit of stop leak i used almost cost me a new radiator. Had to get a new thermostat, filter, and flushed it out twice already. I think its gonna be ok afterall👍.
Damn this job in upstate ny is a bad nightmare. I have an older explorer (same exact under the hood) everything is a rusty mess. Every steel tube leaked and had to be replaced :ll:
My truck was running good then it started running hot. We put more coolant in and a new thermostat and now its blowing white smoke out of the exhaust. I think its a blown head gasket. 😢
My son has the same engine. Why is the overflow coolant department always full after we drive it around n rad is low on coolant.. it might have a blown head gasket but still this should be fixed so flowing of coolant is proving both compartments right?
skipping ovee that wire harness removal is skipping over a lot. old wire harnesses crack at the connectors and the little plastic things that hold them down everywhere. psychologically prepare for that. lol
what is the reasoning for replacing both sides when only one is bad? doing mine this week and only have one cylinder that tested bad (#5 cyl low compression/valve at wet test) same motor as this. 4.0 OHV.
I have this engine and would never machine heads. The weakness in this engine is the heads crack. You just buy new ones. The heads are improved and the engine will probably outlast the driver after that.
@@alb12345672 I've read this somewhere. Each year was different it seems the latest heads for the 4.0 OHV 1998-2000 are 98TM-AD? Now sure how to be absolutely positive they are the new cast with the beefier metal between the valves? Maybe all new heads you will buy are the new & improved version? dunno....
@@clutch5sp989 I was going to change mine but used k-seal and it holds for years. Not saying to do that, mine is kinda rusty so I made that decision, and I don't drive it that much. But from the research I did they are all beefed up, but call before buying. I heard King Cyl heads is the best. I just looked, they want $325 a head, the machine shop here wouldn't be much less with all new hardware and seals!
@@alb12345672 THANKS....this is very affordable having the valves & everything included. RockAuto wants that much for a bare head no valves seats guides nothing. Thanks again
I'm so debating doing just that. What's a few trans bolts & motor mounts? Oh...and the torq converter bolts. Get to the rear seal that has a sleeve kit for improved seal. That and the chance to clean the crap out of it and maybe check bearings all with a fresh new gasket kit.
Great engine‼️ out lasted my Toyota. 260k lot of life left in it. Should go to 350k +
If you are going all in on this job, go all out too.
I appreciate this video so much . I’m doing my heads now n your videos have helped so much being that this is my first BIG mechanic job thanks
My truck did the same... Aluminum heads on iron block. Thanks ford!
The updated heads / long block come with iron heads. 3.0v6
It was cheapest to get a factory long block from ford that they failed to install the pilot Bearing when they installed it. Before my time/ capabilities/ location.
Doing my heads today and found this video. Thanks for the help!
You are a bad mofo boss, really helpful video!
Thank you! I'm about ready to replace my head gaskets.
I gots do this on my 91 ranger 😢😢😢. Ty for this, getting as much guidance as I can 😭😭
Love the Kentucky ballistics shirt dude!
Im not familiar with this particular truck, but due to the condition of that piston, I would want to also replace piston heads, rings, and hone the cylinders too, hopefully leaving the block in the car and pulling oil pan(will need cleaning anyways), then pull oil pump and connection rod caps to get pistons out the the top. Chances are the rings in that rusty cylinder are rusted in place on the piston head. And, it would be a pain to hone the cyl smooth with the piston still in. Plus, then you should have great compression after the job and get better gas mileage. If you pull the pan and clean it, and maybe wipe down the lower chamber with a rag, you should be able to get out most of the coolant, but I would change the oil several times, first time after idling it for 10 minutes, second time after taking it for a drive, 3rd time after a tank of gas, mainly to get hone grit out (dont forget to put a towel over the crank before you hone, and wipe out after, rinse with kerosene), and secondly to get coolant out. The moisture itself will bake out after being run normally hot for a few days. I also like to use a pressure washer to blast out the coolant ports in the exposed block surface.
Get as much a u can including oil pan
Then start putting back together
Put the cheapest oil n filter u can find
N run for one or two days run some engine flush n replace with correct oil filter
Great luck
its been flushed once running strong!
Where did you put your jack stands? I usually have mine under the front cross member or the spots for the stock jack on the lower control arms. I don’t trust the covers for torsion bar keys.
Just drain the milky oil and get some cheap oil and change it after it flows through everything
I'm doing head gaskets on a dodge nitro 4.0 v6. Burning coolant. Any tips?
My truck was running out of oil but didnt see any leaks, smelled oil really bad,then it started smoking so i called for a wrecker. I thought the head gasket, mainseal, block or oilpan were beyond gone. But My dad told me where the leak was actually coming from. Bolts loosened up under pan and thermostat area has a sealing issue. Ford even mentions it somewhere i read. Truck started running better. The little bit of stop leak i used almost cost me a new radiator. Had to get a new thermostat, filter, and flushed it out twice already. I think its gonna be ok afterall👍.
To take the upper plastic intake off did you use a 1/2 socket or 13MM? Anyone know?
Damn this job in upstate ny is a bad nightmare. I have an older explorer (same exact under the hood) everything is a rusty mess. Every steel tube leaked and had to be replaced :ll:
My truck was running good then it started running hot. We put more coolant in and a new thermostat and now its blowing white smoke out of the exhaust. I think its a blown head gasket. 😢
Sorry to hear that
My son has the same engine. Why is the overflow coolant department always full after we drive it around n rad is low on coolant.. it might have a blown head gasket but still this should be fixed so flowing of coolant is proving both compartments right?
Could just be a bad radiator cap
@@GibsonGarage i put a new one on it. Also a new thermostat
@@GibsonGarage I'm hoping and believe its something simple
@@GibsonGarage even if it had a bad head gasket it shouldn't b dou
Doing that overflow
A good flush after assembly
Appreciate it😂😮😢😢🎉
Part 2 ???
Nice brooii😎😎😎😎
What year is that truck
I don't remember
@@GibsonGarage sounds good
Yep
skipping ovee that wire harness removal is skipping over a lot. old wire harnesses crack at the connectors and the little plastic things that hold them down everywhere. psychologically prepare for that. lol
some time you got to pull engen
How many hours these the book says?? To do this job?
Idk
Good job man cheers 🍻
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice Kentucky ballistics shirt👌🏼🫡
what is the reasoning for replacing both sides when only one is bad? doing mine this week and only have one cylinder that tested bad (#5 cyl low compression/valve at wet test) same motor as this. 4.0 OHV.
Just for peace of mind turned out the other head did need to be shaved a little so it was worth it
I have this engine and would never machine heads. The weakness in this engine is the heads crack. You just buy new ones. The heads are improved and the engine will probably outlast the driver after that.
@@alb12345672 I've read this somewhere. Each year was different it seems the latest heads for the 4.0 OHV 1998-2000 are 98TM-AD? Now sure how to be absolutely positive they are the new cast with the beefier metal between the valves? Maybe all new heads you will buy are the new & improved version? dunno....
@@clutch5sp989 I was going to change mine but used k-seal and it holds for years. Not saying to do that, mine is kinda rusty so I made that decision, and I don't drive it that much. But from the research I did they are all beefed up, but call before buying. I heard King Cyl heads is the best. I just looked, they want $325 a head, the machine shop here wouldn't be much less with all new hardware and seals!
@@alb12345672 THANKS....this is very affordable having the valves & everything included. RockAuto wants that much for a bare head no valves seats guides nothing. Thanks again
Follow along 😂😂 day in the life of. 😂😂❤❤
Never pry out the heads with a screw driver or pry bar, use a blow hammer and tap up lightly, comes off every time.
Fair enough 😉
Take the block out
Wasn't necessary I'm tall LOL
I'm so debating doing just that. What's a few trans bolts & motor mounts? Oh...and the torq converter bolts. Get to the rear seal that has a sleeve kit for improved seal. That and the chance to clean the crap out of it and maybe check bearings all with a fresh new gasket kit.
What year is that truck because it's not a 2000+ 4.0 😮😮😮😮😢😢😢🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🧑🔧🧑🔧🧑🔧🧑🔧👨🏭👨🏭👨🏭👨🏭👨🏭
Pretty sure it is
I watch people court guy said he milkshake oil mechanic would touch it cause need motor
Guy lied cause he had oil changed hours before
How much does the machine shop cost for both heads?