Installing Roll Cage Door Bars on your Street Stock

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  • Опубліковано 12 січ 2025

КОМЕНТАРІ • 48

  • @richardlinton3872
    @richardlinton3872 3 роки тому +5

    You do awesome work man. I really enjoy watching your videos and learning. Please keep posting them !!!!

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому

      Thanks Richard, I love building but do wish I had more time where I could get the work and videos done faster.

  • @DaveAdamsMotorsports
    @DaveAdamsMotorsports 3 роки тому +3

    Very nice Jason.

  • @billgagnon4670
    @billgagnon4670 3 роки тому +2

    Jason love the quality build your doing .for a guy out of his garage your really talented and I enjoy watching your logic and reasoning.thanks again for the great vids

  • @lwilliam22
    @lwilliam22 3 роки тому +2

    Just came across your videos. I’ve always wanted to build my own cage. Excited to follow and learn. And maybe attempt it. Great job!

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому

      Thanks Will, sure motivates us too when I here feedback like this!

  • @JamesDedmon
    @JamesDedmon 3 роки тому +1

    I like the way your approach the cage build. It looks safe and also strong

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому

      That means a lot and I appreciate the feedback.

  • @kalebstewart38
    @kalebstewart38 3 роки тому +3

    Keep up the work bud

  • @trevorandrews1349
    @trevorandrews1349 3 роки тому +3

    About time!!!

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому +2

      I know right! Day job is rough right now :(

    • @trevorandrews1349
      @trevorandrews1349 3 роки тому +1

      @@DIRTRACELIFE tell me about it. I'm a regional fleet mechanic for a roadway safety company in nwfl I travel from tallahassee to the Mississippi line and every square inch of Florida and Alabama in between

    • @charleslivengood7483
      @charleslivengood7483 3 роки тому +2

      She’s coming along nicely.
      Looking good Buddy!

  • @team44racing
    @team44racing 3 роки тому +2

    Another great video!!! Thank you sir!

  • @youknoweverything7643
    @youknoweverything7643 3 роки тому +1

    J love building streetstocks and super stock cars so easy compared to building a bomber where you can't build like this cyse it has to have floor pan in stock location so you gotta do cage with body on lol great work you do it just like I do. I like doing the same rake as you well where do you place your lower control arm mounts to we can be within 3/4 of a inch of stock location forward and back and thinking moving them forward abd back could help with the geometry of the front end of the street stock I'm building its a new rule this year on asphalt. Other then that you build them just like I do get your self a window ac unit I got one a huge one in my shop wall and I didn't hang any insulation buts it's a all wood 4 car barn type shop woth concrete floor and it knocks the temp down from 110 f in summer to 78 degrees after a hour of running and in winter don't need anything to stay warm but the AC unit will help you to be able to work longer hours on the racecars and its way more enjoyable to work chill for a few and smoke and work some more I put in 25 hours on the eacecar and didn't leave once due to ac and fridge no need to step foot out ever until you done fir day or night

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому +1

      Great feedback! Ok, so I do have an AC unit in the shop but it locked up on me last year and I haven't resolved that yet :( . Yes, it is sure simple when there is no stock firewall or floor pan. I would love to do a metric car in the future for a class where you are required to cut nothing away and leave all the inner tin. I have done those before and I think it could be very helpful and entertaining videos.
      Sure appreciate you watching and stay tuned!

    • @youknoweverything7643
      @youknoweverything7643 3 роки тому +1

      @@DIRTRACELIFE no problem man. My pro truck asphalt car is a old O'REILLY auto parts super truck series truck my dad built for me for that series when I was 12 and its a metric front clip only cut right before fire wall area tube frame rails all the way to the rear stock rear clip but it still had the stock frame through the whole truck had to have it all there but could tube it out to make it stronger and handle better then nothing stock only tube from rear clip all the way to the back. With 4 link sledge tube setup on a Ford 9 inch floater rear end locker 6p2 crate motor and a Muncie race built 2 speed years with a 5 inch triple disc quarter master clutch with a enclosed interior like a asphalt latemodel no stock fire wall or floor board with a arp Toyota tundra fiber glass truck body which looks very close to the 2020 camping world truck series body like so close the way I got it done up qith a wrap and all the decals and way I mounted it when I use my open trailer sometimes to race ppl literally think it's a camping world truck but it's not you can out one next to it and the bodies are almost I dentical except a few really tiny things like front splitter is narrower then nascar trucks and side skirts are different and that's really it besides mine is fiber glass and plastic bumper covers on and nascae trucks use aluminum metal bodies and composet front and rear bumper covers lol awsome build and I'm a subscriber if you ever need a wheel man let me know been racing since I was 8 and I'm 29 now I can't race but maybe twice a year due to life is more important than racing is now

  • @darrennorman8451
    @darrennorman8451 3 роки тому +1

    Is there anyway you can explain a bump setup? Springs/shocks how to video. Learning a lot been enjoying the series!

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому +1

      Darren, I absolutely am going to but Its going to be a while. I'm several video away from getting there . . ..but I will get there!

    • @darrennorman8451
      @darrennorman8451 3 роки тому

      @@DIRTRACELIFE thanks for the reply didn’t know if you was going to or not since the front end was put together. Can’t wait!

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому +1

      Here the rough outline.
      Front tubes in place
      Engine/trans/hdr mounting (likely a couple episodes)
      Steering sector / links / bump and ackerman
      Move to rearend from here then shock choice and mounting is after that.

    • @darrennorman8451
      @darrennorman8451 3 роки тому

      @@DIRTRACELIFE sounds good glad to see someone sharing info on the metric cars!

  • @DaveAdamsMotorsports
    @DaveAdamsMotorsports 3 роки тому +1

    You should invest in a tube notcher. It does a great job and it is fast. It's amazing that you do all yours by hand. You do good work but the notcher will speed up progress.

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому +1

      I could see myself purchasing one for sure if I built chassis for a living. In the shop now though. . . have way too much in too small a space already. If I ever retire from the day job and am able to go full time Dirt Race Life building, setup, and support then yep I'll be building a bigger shop and asking you which one to look into.

  • @DUKESRACIN
    @DUKESRACIN 3 роки тому

    Great video as always!

  • @DaveAdamsMotorsports
    @DaveAdamsMotorsports 3 роки тому +2

    What is your preference on adding steel sheet metal in the door bars, welding them in or bolting on one big plate?

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому +1

      100% welding. I always want to take advantage of how the plate can add gusset strength. When you bolt then you are only adding penetration safety and missing out on some additional strength benefits.

    • @DaveAdamsMotorsports
      @DaveAdamsMotorsports 3 роки тому +1

      @@DIRTRACELIFE I am taking your advice and welding it all in. I wanted to in the first but my crew chief thought that if we bolted the plate in, we could remove it if we needed to. I really don't see why we would ever need to remove it. Thanks.

    • @nc240coupe
      @nc240coupe 2 роки тому

      @@DaveAdamsMotorsports using dimple dies in your gussets and sheet metal plates is a great way to add strength as well.

  • @tornadosladesweatheralerts3639
    @tornadosladesweatheralerts3639 3 роки тому +2

    How'd you do at racing The past few weeks I'm moving to Jasper Alabama in September When I get there and get things set up I'm going to start building my street stock I'm sharing your videos with my other racing friends On Facebook I was planning on buying a ryobi Is welder but I want to see what you recommend

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому

      We haven't run our Camaro in weeks. My day job has been in overdrive and I am determined to still get this build and videos progressing so I had to sacrifice racing the Camaro temporarily. The whole family is looking at me like I'm nuts and wants to know when we are racing again. Hopefully soon!
      Thanks for sharing, it definitely does help us grow the channel.

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому

      My vulcan omnipro is descent but for the same money I could have done better. Im looking hard at the everlast mig welders in the 600 to 900 dollar range. I may switch in the next year or so.

  • @shannoncollins16
    @shannoncollins16 3 роки тому +1

    Curious what your thoughts are on welding when you don't have 220 power available. Do you think there's any difference on 110 between say a Titanium 140 and the 170 Harbor freight sells that has the dual voltage option (in case 220 becomes available). All my research points to flux core being better at welding thicker metals than the 110 mig but my flux core welder is only a Titanium 125 (it's certainly capable of burning through though, it's not weak). A used Lincoln SP-135T just popped up in my area for sale too so I have options. I like Hobart welders too. Also when technique is concerned I usually do a back and forth weave in the shape of the end of a fingernail, but it appears you do more of a curly fry spiral weave? Maybe you could make a video about all of this sometime if you feel comfortable, thanks again man.

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому +1

      Shannon,
      I think what you see me doing is an incursive "e". That's kind of my go to pattern. I have used several welders over the years and have used two migs besides my current one on rollcages. I had a Lincoln 140 (120V) and a Hobart 170 (240v). I have used flux wire at times but never used flux core doing fabrication work or welding on cages. I used it in the field years ago on a service truck rig because it is great for outside windy conditions. Yes, Flux is hotter but that comes at a cost as well and I am not convinced its a good solution to push a welders limits. Focus on what a welder is rated to be able to do out of the box. I was never uncomfortable using my Lincoln 140 on cage work but that welder had its limits. Using 75/25 mix and 0.035" wire the welder I was comfortable welding both 0.095" and 0.104" tubing but I routinely used a Lincoln 200 amp arc welder and 1/8th 7014 rods to attach cage tie plates to the frame and anything else where the material was significantly thicker. It doesn't matter if you at a welders maximum potential as long as you are within the correct envelope for the work being done. What REALLY makes a difference is GOOD prep, get the mill scale off and get good fit up. If you plan to weld for more than a few minutes at a time you will exceed your cycle limit on most 120volt units.
      From my experience on the current Vulcan Omnipro unit I am using, I can see no difference in how the unit welds between 120 and 240. It is just limited to how high I can set it. But 185 inches and 17.1 volts on 0.035 wire seems to burn the same both ways.
      I was not a huge fan of the Hobart 170. It seemed to voltage drop as I neared overheating /cycle limit. Seemed like I was always unhappy with it's limited adjustability and I was having to tune on the wire speed constantly. These new welders with the inverter technology are light years ahead of discount models from years ago so if you can get into a newer unit that is inverter based you may be pleasantly surprised at how well they perform with gas...just make sure the work you are doing is sized right for the welder you have or come up with a plan of what to use when you have that "It's too thick" scenario.

    • @shannoncollins16
      @shannoncollins16 3 роки тому +1

      @@DIRTRACELIFE thanks boss, I'll probably get the Titanium 140, it's on sale right now for $419.

  • @juniorwhelchel6337
    @juniorwhelchel6337 3 роки тому +1

    Can you give me some info on tighten and loosing up my pure stock racecar we have to be completely stock I run metric chasis monte Carlos

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому +1

      Completely stock could be tough. First get it on the scales. If you are on stock springs then you need to look at the stock heigh, stock replacement style afco springs. If you can shim above the springs, then shim to set your left rear bite. Can you use spring rubbers because if so they can be a good crutch in a pinch at the track. If you can't do any of that then you can set stagger to get your bite in the car. I started out in the late 90s in what was considered completely stock and I actually used stock springs. We trimmed some of them, we stuck spring rubbers in some, and we used different size radial tires for basically all of our setup. I loved that ole car but it was a disaster to try and drive (well to be fair I was a disaster driver too).
      I have a video I'm working on for stagger and I'll work some of this stuff in. Thanks for watching :)

  • @jeffblackwelder6543
    @jeffblackwelder6543 3 роки тому +1

    Do you plan to travel with the street stock or run mainly a weekly series at one track

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому +1

      Definitely travel, we don't have any tracks closer than a 1 hour 15 min drive but have 7 tracks within a 2 hour 15 min drive. I rarely race at the same track back to back in the last few years. This new car is being purpose built for me to be more competitive in the larger shows such as the Street Stock Nationals in MS and others. I love my camaro but she's built to a tighter rule set than what is needed for these big CRUSA street stock races.

    • @jeffblackwelder6543
      @jeffblackwelder6543 3 роки тому +1

      @@DIRTRACELIFE pretty much the same here they ripped up our local track turned it into a copart salvage yard but I have quite a few options within 2 hours I don't want the drama of a weekly series anymore so I'm really looking at Crusa but I'm on the fence between TB and SS series I'm just 20 miles north of Charlotte NC

  • @jeffwooton7138
    @jeffwooton7138 3 роки тому +2

    I'd really like to see you tie the top halo in to your front and rear risers, say with a 1" or 1.5" run at a 45*, down from the halo to the riser. That would really tighten up the corner in front, and back there over your head. Triangulation my man.

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому

      Absolutely, more tubes to go for sure.

  • @davemoulding8799
    @davemoulding8799 3 роки тому +1

    Smart move like our sanctions body does is makes us weld intrusions plates on
    door bars .

    • @DIRTRACELIFE
      @DIRTRACELIFE  3 роки тому

      Thanks Dave, yep, definitely welded plating. I had planned to have that part in the video as well but getting down in the details makes the videos so long I felt like I needed to cut it. But yes, I'm with you on adding the plates.