Building a brand new Camaro from the ground up. It is neat to see the different designs and the way we did it between your build and mine. We definitely think safety is first. Well done Jason!
@@DIRTRACELIFE Just call me Dave. Dave Adams Motorsports (Yes DAM) is my business name. Fortunately, I refuse to do social media any more. I feel much better being off of them so the only way I can send them is to email or text them to you.
One thing I like is how the cage is attached to the frame. It’s still left offset without putting in another piece of tubing straight down the right side. To me that makes a stronger frame and cage unit
@@DIRTRACELIFE that’s a capability I wish we had in our group. We lost our car and having to wait on a local builder to do our frame/cage. It does get frustrating waiting.
Man I tell you I've learned so much from these videos I really appreciate you put them out it's gave me the confidence to start a build of my own I've already ordered the steel for my jig table And I'm gonna start my Monte Carlo pure stock soon
Thats awesome Thomas, Its helping me too though because its like I have someone over my shoulder the whole time and thats making me try to do the very best I can. I appreciate you watching and build away!
So exited to see this project coming along, and that’s going to grow with every bar fitted. The skills You are teaching are exactly what’s needed to encourage others to build their own chassis. Just as important, or more so, is the way You convey the thought processes that bring You to the actions taken to execute the process. I love what You’re doing. Keep it coming Brother!
@@DIRTRACELIFE I wish You had a bigger engine. Legit Speedway. West Plains Mo is having a super stock special over the weekend of Independence Day. $11,000 to win, with the non qualifiers race paying $600, on can opt to start 25th in the big show. Legit super stocks run under POWRI rules.
Everything you see here is 0.095" DOM and I make sure to only use DOM in these critical tubes. But yes, I will also be using HREW (seamed) as well. I try to find a good balance for me between cost and my safety. DOM costs twice as much but I feel the 4 point part of the cage MUST be DOM.
@@DIRTRACELIFE 10/5 I was just wondering I just started on my 79 cutlass build it’s going to be a factory stock type deal I am going to use .095 DOM 1.75 just didn’t know what your thoughts was on the tubing type heard a lot of good stuff about DOM.
1.75 0.095" DOM is great stuff. I hope it goes well and just remember to have patience. Thanks for watching and hope I can add a few more videos soon that will be helpful.
Hey Jason. Considering the front clip flexes on a bare frame based on rather the engine is in or out... should I tie my front hoops to the main cage with the engine in or out?
Frames should be resting with no twist, pull, or bind at all. If you just had a bare frame on 4 jack stands and sit a 700+ engine on top of it, well yeah thats creating bind. I lock mine onto the jig to insure having the engine in or out has no affect either way. You can achieve the same affect just using plenty of jack stands and shims in the right spots on a level concrete floor and leave the engine out until the tubes are done. Point is I believe in a rigid chassis and if the front tubes are done right the chassis won't change at all by bolting the engine in.
Hey , I enjoy your videos , but something I can’t figure out ,, is you have square tubing left to right that your back hoop is welded to . It’s seems to me it is in the way of your drive shaft ? Can you explain or will it be taken out later ? Thanks
Yes, that center gets cut out just like you think. Putting it in as one piece is how i make sure i get it perfectly square to those rear control arm points. Stay tuned- planning to cut it out when I put the rear hoop diagonals in.
Jason I appreciate all the great work you put in .quality building while being a great teacher .even if we have built one already .shows how much thought goes into a winning piece.Thanks. again .you make me want to get off my butt and get going on a car again ..did I see the Camaro up for sale .how much did you want for the roller at the end of the year
I listed it for 8995 race ready minus seat. My plan is to just race it at specials through the season and if someone wants her then I'll pull the seat and help load er up. Love that ole girl but this CRUSA build is going to be expensive :)
As Ralph Nader would say... that this is unsafe at any speed!😳... ive been building race cars and welding chassis together since I was 12 years old and I haven't seen many like this... uprights not welded in at the same point side to side... rear springs have more twists and turns than a soap opera... not being a ass or a troll but if you're ever in Wisconsin stop by for some chassis building tips...
Its not about being better, having the best design, being the smartest, or declaring to be the best. Its about being honest and showing exactly what I am doing and why I am doing it in order to be helpful for those who are looking for ideas, details, and solutions. Take the good, leave the bad, suggest what can be better in order to help us all. Even your comment will likely help folks. I mean it when I say "Your safety is your responsibility" and your challenge is going to help racers use a critical eye when looking at my choices and hopefully help them come up with an even better solution and design for their build. And for that sir, thank you, I do appreciate your feedback.
Appreciate these videos. Currently restoring an old street stock taking it down to the frame so these are great!
Nice to hear Mike, I hope the build goes great for you :)
Building a brand new Camaro from the ground up. It is neat to see the different designs and the way we did it between your build and mine. We definitely think safety is first. Well done Jason!
Thanks David, I appreciate the feedback. If you post picks anywhere of your build tag me so I can see how its going :)
@@DIRTRACELIFE Just call me Dave. Dave Adams Motorsports (Yes DAM) is my business name. Fortunately, I refuse to do social media any more. I feel much better being off of them so the only way I can send them is to email or text them to you.
One thing I like is how the cage is attached to the frame. It’s still left offset without putting in another piece of tubing straight down the right side. To me that makes a stronger frame and cage unit
Thanks Sawlogs, I appreciate you watching and the feedback.
@@DIRTRACELIFE that’s a capability I wish we had in our group. We lost our car and having to wait on a local builder to do our frame/cage. It does get frustrating waiting.
Man I tell you I've learned so much from these videos I really appreciate you put them out it's gave me the confidence to start a build of my own I've already ordered the steel for my jig table And I'm gonna start my Monte Carlo pure stock soon
Thats awesome Thomas, Its helping me too though because its like I have someone over my shoulder the whole time and thats making me try to do the very best I can. I appreciate you watching and build away!
@@DIRTRACELIFE well your doing great bud, keep up the good work!
Really appreciate these videos
Thank you Christopher, I appreciate you supporting by watching.
So exited to see this project coming along, and that’s going to grow with every bar fitted.
The skills You are teaching are exactly what’s needed to encourage others to build their own chassis. Just as important, or more so, is the way You convey the thought processes that bring You to the actions taken to execute the process.
I love what You’re doing.
Keep it coming Brother!
Thank you Chuck! We'll hook up again sometime at a track this summer. I'll give you a shout out and thanks for the encouragement.
@@DIRTRACELIFE I wish You had a bigger engine. Legit Speedway. West Plains Mo is having a super stock special over the weekend of Independence Day.
$11,000 to win, with the non qualifiers race paying $600, on can opt to start 25th in the big show. Legit super stocks run under POWRI rules.
Another great video!!!
I appreciate it.
What type of tubing you using DOM welded seam or what
Everything you see here is 0.095" DOM and I make sure to only use DOM in these critical tubes. But yes, I will also be using HREW (seamed) as well. I try to find a good balance for me between cost and my safety. DOM costs twice as much but I feel the 4 point part of the cage MUST be DOM.
@@DIRTRACELIFE 10/5 I was just wondering I just started on my 79 cutlass build it’s going to be a factory stock type deal I am going to use .095 DOM 1.75 just didn’t know what your thoughts was on the tubing type heard a lot of good stuff about DOM.
1.75 0.095" DOM is great stuff. I hope it goes well and just remember to have patience. Thanks for watching and hope I can add a few more videos soon that will be helpful.
Hey Jason. Considering the front clip flexes on a bare frame based on rather the engine is in or out... should I tie my front hoops to the main cage with the engine in or out?
Frames should be resting with no twist, pull, or bind at all. If you just had a bare frame on 4 jack stands and sit a 700+ engine on top of it, well yeah thats creating bind. I lock mine onto the jig to insure having the engine in or out has no affect either way. You can achieve the same affect just using plenty of jack stands and shims in the right spots on a level concrete floor and leave the engine out until the tubes are done. Point is I believe in a rigid chassis and if the front tubes are done right the chassis won't change at all by bolting the engine in.
Hey , I enjoy your videos , but something I can’t figure out ,, is you have square tubing left to right that your back hoop is welded to . It’s seems to me it is in the way of your drive shaft ? Can you explain or will it be taken out later ? Thanks
Yes, that center gets cut out just like you think. Putting it in as one piece is how i make sure i get it perfectly square to those rear control arm points. Stay tuned- planning to cut it out when I put the rear hoop diagonals in.
Jason I appreciate all the great work you put in .quality building while being a great teacher .even if we have built one already .shows how much thought goes into a winning piece.Thanks. again .you make me want to get off my butt and get going on a car again ..did I see the Camaro up for sale .how much did you want for the roller at the end of the year
I listed it for 8995 race ready minus seat. My plan is to just race it at specials through the season and if someone wants her then I'll pull the seat and help load er up. Love that ole girl but this CRUSA build is going to be expensive :)
As Ralph Nader would say... that this is unsafe at any speed!😳... ive been building race cars and welding chassis together since I was 12 years old and I haven't seen many like this... uprights not welded in at the same point side to side... rear springs have more twists and turns than a soap opera... not being a ass or a troll but if you're ever in Wisconsin stop by for some chassis building tips...
Its not about being better, having the best design, being the smartest, or declaring to be the best. Its about being honest and showing exactly what I am doing and why I am doing it in order to be helpful for those who are looking for ideas, details, and solutions. Take the good, leave the bad, suggest what can be better in order to help us all. Even your comment will likely help folks. I mean it when I say "Your safety is your responsibility" and your challenge is going to help racers use a critical eye when looking at my choices and hopefully help them come up with an even better solution and design for their build. And for that sir, thank you, I do appreciate your feedback.