How to Replace the Rear Sway Bar Links on a Volvo C30 S40 V50 C70
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- Опубліковано 28 бер 2019
- How to replace the sway bar links on a Volvo C30 and the same procedure also applies to the S40, V50, and C70 models of the same generation. This is a 2007 model. These cars take two types of sway bar links, be sure to look under your car before ordering the parts. Typically worn sway bar links will clunk when cornering or going over bumps and you may noticed more body roll. As a visual inspection, you’ll be able to see a space between the sway bar and rubber bushings. This means the bushings are compressed and are no longer able to firmly hold onto the sway bar, creating excessive movement. #volvo #volvoc30 #volvos40
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-15mm wrench
-17mm wrench
-3/8" drive ratchet
-17mm socket
-16mm socket
Procedure:
Start by safely elevating the rear of the vehicle, this can be easily done by simply driving onto ramps. The vehicle does need to be level from side to side so the sway bar isn’t twisting and there isn’t any tension. These cars take two types of sway bar links, be sure to look under your car before ordering the parts.
To remove the only links, use a 15mm wrench on the top to hold the nut. Then use a 16mm socket with 3/8” drive ratchet to loosen and remove the bolt on the bottom. I’ll show you the link once it’s out in a moment. There is a center bolt which holds everything together.
Finally remove the bolt and outer bushings. I can’t remove the center bushings just yet and there is light tension, this will be removed once I disconnect the other side.
Remove the other side using the same process. If you find the bolt in binding, then tighten and loosen again.
And finally remove the whole assembly completely. You’ll need to pull the sway bar down slightly by hand to remove the center bushing.
For installation, install the center bushing between the sway bar and control arm. You’ll need to make sure the bushings are aligned with the holes.
Then install the center bolt.
And finally the top bushing with the nut. The new sway bar link uses 17mm for both the bolt and nut. If you are having a slight issue starting the nut, you can bush the sway bar up by hand or maybe even use the assistance of a c clamp. I only threaded the nut on so the threads from the bolt were barely flush with the outer edge.
Move onto the other side, removing the old center bushing.
Install the new center bushing.
Install the bolt and then the top bushing with nut. These use a nyloc nut, meaning there’s a nylon insert which prevents the nut from loosening. So there is no need for a thread locker.
You may need to go back and forth tightening up the links to ensure everything is seated correctly between the two. From what I’ve been able to find, the factory torque specifications are 25 NM or 18ft lbs. Typically what I do is tighten each sway bar bushings until they just start to compress. Too tight and you’ll either break then or they’ll prematurely fail.
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This helped a lot, I just ordered the part! My rear links look like cottle pins because there is no rubber left on the sway bar link so I think I found my rear end noise in my car when I hit bumps. When I slide the link up and down it makes the same noise and it does when I hit bumps and there is no rubber left on them! Thanks for the video and can’t wait to tackle this next. I just replaced my rear shocks because the car was bottoming out on bumps and now the ride quality is so much better!
When you cracked that first bolt I was shocked it came off so easy, rust welds everything together so bad in Ontario, great video!
I was too, but the passenger side was much harder. The ratchet actually slipped and I managed to smash my knuckles off the exhaust lol. Thank you :)
thank you very much, i was searching for the torque value everywhere
No problem, glad I could help :)
Exelent. Perfekt explaining and footage of the car parts. Very educational 👍
Thank You for the video,
helped me replace the end links on a s40.
Very clear and concise. Thanks!
Thank you :)
Very helpful, thank you:)
Perfect thank you
Another awesome video! Keep up the good work! What do you use for video editing software to get such pro videos? Thanks
Thank you, I really appreciate it :) I use Final Cut Pro, it's Apple based software.
Thank you now I can do mine.
No problem, happy to help!
Great video, but one question. You said there are twi types of end links for the P1....look under your car to see which. I order parts by vin # or make, model, trim, etc. What's best for this repair. Also, I have a 2004.5 s40t5, fwd, auto. I've been given a rear sway bar from a 2010 s40.....is it an upgrade to switch?.....for sure it has fewer miles. Thanks
Bra jobbat 👍🇸🇪
Thank you!
I had no idea that this was such an easy fix for anyone.. And talk about cheaper.. If i would have done this at a shop it would cost about 400 dollars. or 4000 swedish crowns.
By the way at 3:32 you can see diffent bushings to the left of your hand, what are those and when do i know when to change them? would be lovely to got an explaination and a video that also explain how to chnage it
Easily under a 30min job for the replacement and you don't need many tools either. What's the hourly door rate in Sweden for a mechanic?
You're referring to the control arm bushings? Those I believe are once piece with the control arms (then can't be replaced separately). When worn, the bushings will be cracked and/or you will notice excessive camber wear. I don't need replacements as of yet so I won't have a video anytime soon unfortunately. But I do have plenty more Volvo videos for this generation. Don't forget to subscribe :)
Behöver byta dessa också. Jag köpte fel modell dock. Sen är de dyra på Volvo. Tror dessa kostar runt 1000kr. Fattar inte hur några gummibitar, en mutter o en bult kan vara så dyra.
På min vänstra sida så är krängningshämmaren lös och ligger och klonkar o slamrar. Bottendelen på länken saknas helt. Så sitter endast ovanifrån så jag gissar att den går att plocka loss enkelt. Blir ännu enklare då ena sidan redan är borta så att säga. Men bävar mig för högra sidan. Lär ju sitta fast som bara den. Man ska väl egentligen ha nåt batteriverktyg att lossa med men.. Man får köra med handjagaren :) ibland är det lättast att bara ta vinkelkapen. Det gjorde vi på främre stagen då de satt fast som bara den.
My s40 is knocking from the left rear and also seems to hop around like the rear end is loose, could this be a cause? Thanks
Need to do this on my car too. Found out yesterday that left side was gone and the bar loose banging on controlarm :)
Good to find the noise.
Does tires need to be lifted in air? I can jack it up or use car lift in air with tires hanging.
Good tip for the tightening. I guess the nuts/bolt are going to be rusted on and stuck. Noo fun.
The wheels need to be level, that's when the sway bar is in a neutral position. So the easiest route is either jacking up the whole rear of the car or having it on ramps.
@@4DIYers thank you.. looks like and easy job. But might need some fighting with rusted bolt/nut i guess.
I heard a new rear sway bar helps handling so I may just replace the whole thing with the elevate brand.
It does, it helps minimize the body roll. The Elevate is believe is a thicker diameter, so it'll eliminate more body roll and stiffen up the suspension.
I don’t believe the elevate sway bar comes with new bushings however
On my car, the lower part och link is gone, and of course the bushing.
The mechanic told me they need to change the entire sway arm. But that's a job for around 300-400 USD. Do you think it's necessary to change the whole sway arm and links?
You'll definitely need the links. But if the sway bar is not damaged or faulty, there's no need to replace it.
Do you have the part number? When I follow the link it just takes me to the seller's main page.
How much should I tighten when assembling?
How much torque?
Strong tightening link broken,
I covered that in the video.
@@4DIYers
Ah it's in the description. Thank you.
Good~~~
Thank you!
Everyone talking here about how easy it is, tried to replace mine, two hours and still no success, the plastic bushings are literally glued to the bolt which makes it unable to remove... Think I might use a gas lamp to heat that plastic so it will be soft and then maybe I will manage to remove it. I tried using a hammer from the top, but it holds very tough
Dr John Campbell
I wish you kept your c30
Wasn’t the car I hoped it would be sadly. I actually preferred my 850 over the C30.
I dont understand. I just bought this from Volvo dealer.. OEM. It isnt rubber. It is plastic allover.
They could be a nylon. Some brands do vary, the denser versions will provide more rigidity and road feel.
@@4DIYers this is car specific from dealer. OEM. Maybe this is an upgraded part from previous rubber model. If it even was rubber. Havent checked yet.
Will be hard to know how much i need to tighten it. I have tourqe specs but.. no tourqe wrench. And it has no rubber so i cant go squish rubber tight