Excellent video with great instructions. So is there enough room (clearance) to install extended studs without removing the hub or making a dent on the dust shield?
The tool kit I used was "Maddox Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit MF11-1". The attachment labeled 3 fit the back brake caliper for my 2005 S40, manual transmission. If your brake piston is stuck, try a little WD40 just below the rubber then twist the piston clock-wise with channel locks to get it started. Be patient, because the tool looks simple but requires practice and so does installing the new retainer.
Sooo I have a piston kit and I decided not to mess with it and used a c clamp for my front calipers. Got to the back and thought they were seized up so I gave up. Glad to know I’m a moron and I even have the correct tools for the job!
Hey, great vid.. I appreciate it. I did everything as instructed. My only question is, when depressing the piston - i had a tool, and was able to make it turn and compress until it became pretty easy to turn and seemed to be down. but it never stopped turning.. did i give up too soon? I'm hearing the same rubbing i was hearing before i replaced the rotor that i had attributed to a warped rotor (which i still believe it was). Is it possible that the backing plate is bent and rubbing? I appreciate your help in advance..
Thank you! If I remember correctly, mine did stop turning. As long as the pads and caliper installed easily, then there shouldn't be an issue. The rubbing sound could very well be backing plate, they're fairly easy to bent/deform. Another issue can also be rust or a stone stuck in the plate. An easy way to diagnose that is by jacking up the wheel, then pull the back plate back while rotate the wheel. If it disappears, then that was the issue.
Thanks for sharing. Great video, very clear explanations. Love it that the tightening torques are mentioned. Just one question, we're not supposed to apply some copper grease on the back side of the pads, and on the edges where they slide on the caliper?
Thank you, happy I could help! You can apply grease, but considering that I live in Canada experiencing all forms of weather, the grease tends to attract dirt and road debris. This can cause more problems than good.
Great video bud! Very helpful, i was about to do this job but didn't realize i needed anything more than my giant C Clamp 🗜️ to compress the pistons... I guess i go back to Biltema tomorrow (pretty much Finnish Canadian Tire 😁.. I'm Canadian now living in Finland 😅) as they have a great looking set for all vehicles including Volvo/Ford for only 49€ One question about the parking brake adjustment.... When you were pulling the handbrake and pumping the pedal to adjust it do you have the car running at that point? Thanks bud
Thank you so much! I've had a couple people argue with me saying it can be done with a c-clamp. I tried, it's not possible. I try to keep my tool lists limited so people aren't spending money on unnecessary things. The car can be off when pulling the handbrake and pumping the pedal.
My rear ATE brake discs came with two screws and an extra hole. Whats are these for? My Volvo OEM doesnt have that. I know that the Volvo discs are made by ATE so they are the same brand.
I ain’t getting mad at you, I just think that Volvo made changing their brakes unnecessarily difficult by needing a ‘special tool’. In many other cases a clamp would get the job done but for some reason Volvo didn’t want to make it that easy. I’ve managed to get it done with a pair of needle nose pliers, but it was a hassle
I definitely don't disagree there, car companies seem to like reinventing the wheel every time. I try to keep my list minimal so people at home can do the job easily without much money. But this new stuff is getting hard to keep up with. Some brands are now switching to a motorized setup where you need a bidirectional scan tool to retract the parking brakes. I'll be forever driving an older vehicle lol.
@@4DIYers yea you could say that again. They want you to keep going into the shop to get your money. But if you want a more descriptive way of how I did it I basically made a makeshift tool using a clamp and the needle nose pliers and pressed down with some elbow grease into those tiny holes while I twisted it. Seemed to do the trick pretty well. Keep up the good content!
Worst part is the stuff isn't built to last anymore. Had a chat with the owner of a dealership a few years back, apparently the new stuff is only intended to last 10yrs. Thanks for the tip, will definitely have to keep it in mind. And thank you for the support too, greatly appreciated!
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Well done. I wish all how-to videos were like this
Thank you!
I have a volvo and so far its been a better car than any American car.
Sadly I can't say the same for mine, it was one of the more problematic cars I've owned and a drop in quality compared to my 850 T5.
Clear video, instructions and easy to follow. Thank you !!!
Thank you so much!
Now i feel very confident i can do this my self, thanks!
Excellent video with great instructions. So is there enough room (clearance) to install extended studs without removing the hub or making a dent on the dust shield?
The tool kit I used was "Maddox Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit MF11-1". The attachment labeled 3 fit the back brake caliper for my 2005 S40, manual transmission. If your brake piston is stuck, try a little WD40 just below the rubber then twist the piston clock-wise with channel locks to get it started. Be patient, because the tool looks simple but requires practice and so does installing the new retainer.
Sooo I have a piston kit and I decided not to mess with it and used a c clamp for my front calipers. Got to the back and thought they were seized up so I gave up. Glad to know I’m a moron and I even have the correct tools for the job!
Best description
Thank you!
Geat video . Wish all videos were as well explained .
Thank you so much!
You can also put some brake grease on the caliper bracket where the pad lobes sit
Yeah, without grease or "anti squeak" you would experience terrible noises.
5 star, A+, 10 out of 10
Thank you so much!
Great video, my 13mm bolts are seized on - and ideas?
Hey, great vid.. I appreciate it. I did everything as instructed. My only question is, when depressing the piston - i had a tool, and was able to make it turn and compress until it became pretty easy to turn and seemed to be down. but it never stopped turning.. did i give up too soon? I'm hearing the same rubbing i was hearing before i replaced the rotor that i had attributed to a warped rotor (which i still believe it was). Is it possible that the backing plate is bent and rubbing? I appreciate your help in advance..
Thank you! If I remember correctly, mine did stop turning. As long as the pads and caliper installed easily, then there shouldn't be an issue. The rubbing sound could very well be backing plate, they're fairly easy to bent/deform. Another issue can also be rust or a stone stuck in the plate. An easy way to diagnose that is by jacking up the wheel, then pull the back plate back while rotate the wheel. If it disappears, then that was the issue.
excellent . well done clear and concise
Many thanks!
Thanks for sharing. Great video, very clear explanations. Love it that the tightening torques are mentioned. Just one question, we're not supposed to apply some copper grease on the back side of the pads, and on the edges where they slide on the caliper?
Thank you, happy I could help! You can apply grease, but considering that I live in Canada experiencing all forms of weather, the grease tends to attract dirt and road debris. This can cause more problems than good.
@@4DIYers thought something about this video seemed familiar 😅 🇨🇦🍁🇨🇦
I've used a dry grease before for this that didn't have as much issues with dirt 👍 not sure if it's a proper way though
Great video bud! Very helpful, i was about to do this job but didn't realize i needed anything more than my giant C Clamp 🗜️ to compress the pistons... I guess i go back to Biltema tomorrow (pretty much Finnish Canadian Tire 😁.. I'm Canadian now living in Finland 😅) as they have a great looking set for all vehicles including Volvo/Ford for only 49€
One question about the parking brake adjustment.... When you were pulling the handbrake and pumping the pedal to adjust it do you have the car running at that point? Thanks bud
Thank you so much! I've had a couple people argue with me saying it can be done with a c-clamp. I tried, it's not possible. I try to keep my tool lists limited so people aren't spending money on unnecessary things.
The car can be off when pulling the handbrake and pumping the pedal.
@@4DIYers thanks buddy!
You're very welcome!
Thank you sir, excellent video 👍
Tool at 2:23 is cool!
Hi how can I get stuck solid carrier bolts out?
What's the tool called for winding back the callipers please
Shouldn’t brake pads have shims on caliper bracket?
If only it was that easy
Would using c clamp work to compress the caliper?
Nope. As mentioned in the video, the piston works on a threaded mechanism. So it needs to be turned as it's being pushed back in the caliper.
@@4DIYers , Is it the same for a 2011 V50 T5?
Are the fronts also needing to be turned as pushed?
@@mikelow4374 fronts, no
My rear ATE brake discs came with two screws and an extra hole. Whats are these for? My Volvo OEM doesnt have that.
I know that the Volvo discs are made by ATE so they are the same brand.
Question: I own a 2008 Volvo C30 Turbo 2.5... I have an Automatic Transmission..so just leave it in Park and emergency brake Off..correct
Yes that is correct.
Does this car have electronic handbrake? Will i need to use the special tool with a old normal manual hand brake?
simple manual hand brake :) yes tool needed
@@MagazinulColectionarului Thank you 👍
Yes it's needed unfortunately.
🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪 Volvo
Judge I see you can ykubhelp me please not a flag that xhtisirna was talking about
do i need to bleed the brakes after this?
these brakes also fit the v40 hatcback
?
No, unless you're removing brake hoses. There's no need to remove them for changing the pads alone.
@@amadejuskubilius1449 not even when i open the resevoir?
Nope. Just make sure you have more brake fluid than a minimum scale on the master cylinder itself.
what fucking year range is this for?
Foul mouth he's only trying to help
A special tool just to replace my brakes? Lol what a load of bs
If you have a better way of pushing back the pistons, please share. It'll help out other viewers.
I ain’t getting mad at you, I just think that Volvo made changing their brakes unnecessarily difficult by needing a ‘special tool’. In many other cases a clamp would get the job done but for some reason Volvo didn’t want to make it that easy. I’ve managed to get it done with a pair of needle nose pliers, but it was a hassle
I definitely don't disagree there, car companies seem to like reinventing the wheel every time. I try to keep my list minimal so people at home can do the job easily without much money. But this new stuff is getting hard to keep up with. Some brands are now switching to a motorized setup where you need a bidirectional scan tool to retract the parking brakes. I'll be forever driving an older vehicle lol.
@@4DIYers yea you could say that again. They want you to keep going into the shop to get your money. But if you want a more descriptive way of how I did it I basically made a makeshift tool using a clamp and the needle nose pliers and pressed down with some elbow grease into those tiny holes while I twisted it. Seemed to do the trick pretty well. Keep up the good content!
Worst part is the stuff isn't built to last anymore. Had a chat with the owner of a dealership a few years back, apparently the new stuff is only intended to last 10yrs. Thanks for the tip, will definitely have to keep it in mind. And thank you for the support too, greatly appreciated!