Thank you so much for the intelligent and informative analysis. So nice to see videos like this without all the ridiculous memes and shop jocks trying to be comedians.
Hello, The closer the saw blade is to the protractor pivot point(fulcrum) the less flex or bend will the crosscut fence show when you cut a piece of wood. That's probably why Harvey suggests mounting it on the rightmost track.
Some really good points you raise. I moved the LH cast surface to the right side it doesn’t have the chamfer when rotated to for but gives a good surface on the RH side. Moving the miter gauge to the outer slots is clever except when making cuts close to the blade. I find an issue when using the main fence where the sliding table gauge is in the way and moving it to the outer May solve this for me. I find the large handle / screw tightens down the miter gauge and very successful holds Zero the notch position has potentional to move on its own. Moving the power back to the front rail makes emergency stop so much easier. Thanks for the comments. This is the first I have seen of your videos. Well presented and informative. Thanks.
Sorry to hear you had issues with the saw. For what it's worth Once I finally got through to a manager at Harvey service they were very helpful. I have been using the saw for over a year now and am still very happy with it.
Great video. The lockdown bolt is captive in the silver upper slide, when you turn it, anti clockwise it forces the bottom bar away. Don't over tighteen.
I ordered one when I ordered my table saw but it hasn’t arrived yet. Looking for it to come in. Looking forward to it arriving and setting it up. I was thinking the same thing about the extra 7” iron section and not wanting it to go to waste. Great idea I will be implementing.
The beauty of using the wing is that you can drill the holes wherever you want to. I mounted mine so that the end of the slider is flush with the rail. This only allows 38 inch cross cuts but it keeps the slider from interfering with my movements while using it. If you need to crosscut 48 inches you will need to mount it 12 farther back.
For the extension rule I believe you want to flip it. My Incra mitre 5000 also does this. Basically, when full retracted the beginning of the extension rule and the end of the miter bar rule would read the same. As for zeroing the mitre bar…I have no idea. It’s counter intuitive the have a 45° next to the blade as it’s REALLY difficult to zero.
I'm looking to get one. How easy is it to remove when you want to rip? I had the Sawstop version at one time and didn't like how I had to calibrate it every single time I took it off and back on.
It's actually very simple. Undo two Allen screws and the giant red knob and it comes right off. Reverse the process to reinstall it. The only tricky part is having a place to put it when it's not being used. Mine sits on top of the recycle bin. Handy but out of the way.
I bought one of these to put on my Grizzly G0691 but haven't installed it yet. I used to have a Jessem sliding table that had two knobs you could loosen with your hands and take the fence off when you weren't using it. I wish this one was as easy to remove, because when ripping long sheet goods it would be in the way. I'll let you know my thoughts after I get it installed and use it a bit.
I started removing the mitre guage and fence when I wasn't cutting long pieces. It really just makes for an extra large support surface, which is handy. I mounted mine flush with the saw so the max I can crosscut is 38 inches but that keeps the table out of my way when I am working. So far I am starting to get used to it and liking it.
Hey man. Appreciate the video. I just bought the Harvey table saw and ST-1500 and was trying answer the same question about whether I could keep the left wing on and attach the sliding table to it. I was wondering how you measured out the holes for the left side table so you could attach the sliding table to it?
Hey Sean. There are a couple of ways to do this. Lay the wing on the table and place a straight edge across it from left to right. Using the original holes on the right side as a guide draw a pencil line across the wing from left to right. This will give you the position of the holes from front to back. You can use masking tape as well. Wrap the tape over the edge so your pencil line continues down the side of the wing. Mark a spot on the pencil line that is in the centre of the thicknes. This gives you the up/ down position for the holes. Stand the wing on edge and use a centre punch to make a mark where you want the holes drilled. Ypu can use a drill press or just a standard drill. Cast iron is easy to drill through. I made the holes a little bit larger than the M8 by 30 bolts so there would be adjustment room to make sure it ended up flush. I missed a bit on the centre hole so mine is only held on by two bolts but this isn't an issue as most of the support comes from the legs. I found it easier to mount the table if I installed the legs first. This way I wasn't fighting the weight as I installed it. I hope this helps.
Thank you for your informative videos. I'm thinking about purchasing the Compass St-1500. Will it work with cross cutting full sheets of plywood (48x96")?
Yes. But make sure you have it all the way in the back position (behind the blade). Measure before you make holes to mount it or you’ll have a dozen holes in your table saw like I now do lol.
First off, thank you for the video. There doesn't seem to be much out there that are actually discussing fit and function of the slider, only brief installation videos or single cut clips. I have this on a Delta Unisaw and kept the left wing on as well. The only issue I am having, is with the wing on it seems to have changed the balance point of the miter bar (having shifted it closer to the blade, there is now more weight of the bar to the right) and it ever so slightly drags on the table top. Is this an issue you came across? How do you have the slider surface mounted in relation to the saw surface?, Flush?, Slightly raised? Thanks again for the time you put into your videos, and any insight is greatly appreciated.
Hi Caleb. When I drilled the holes in the wing I went slightly oversized so I could have som wiggle room for height adjustment s. Right now the slider is flush with the wing. The amount t of drag I get is minimal but when I load up the slider with a very heavy piece I do a couple of thing to counteract the drag. I waxed the tabletop and I use a screw clamp to secure the piece to the slider. Yesterday it was a 25 inch wide 60 inch long slab of 8/4 Maple. It weighed about 80 lbs. On this one I had a problem keeping the end beside the fence flat on the table. The weight seemed to lift it up about 1/4 inch. Careful use of a push stick solved it and once I got it cut down a bit the issue went away. With smaller lighter pieces I have no issue. I also use the handle off my regular Compass mitre guage as a secondary lock to keep the mitre at 0. The vast majority of cuts I do are 90 degrees. Overall I am very happy with the slider. It is so much better than my old crosscut sled. I hope this helps.
@@Bryanthecellphoneguy thanks for the response. I also made slightly over-sized mounting holes, and wax my table top regularly. I think it may just take a bit more fiddling and experience with the slider to dial everything in. Clamp idea is good for sure. Thanks again.
Thanks for the informative videos what is the max rip capacity when you add the cast iron to the left side and move the miter gauge to the left set of grooves in the sliding table as you shown in the video ? 5:00
I have never had to think about the capacity left of the blade. With the slider in place I wouldn't use the mitre gauge at all and I have successfully trimmed an inch of the bottom of a 7' door. It really is only limited by the space in the shop and the weight of the piece that you are cutting.
Take the main fence on your slider and slide it as close as you can to the blade without hitting it.... Set one of your sliding flip stop approximately 15 in off the blade... Measurement is not critical... Do not move the flip stop... Take a piece of scrap and make a cut... Take a measurement of your of scrap... Whatever the measurement may be... Go to the ruler on your fence.. and set it to the measurement of your cut....
I have the Harvey 2 hp coming soon and wanted to ask you what the base measurements outside are so I can make a rolling base for it. I didn't want the Harvey wheel kit they sell for $79.. Thanks for the help cant wait to start sawing with it.
Hi Thomas. The base of the saw is 22 inches wide and 24 deep. If you add the slider ypu would need to accommodate the support legs and also you need to find a way to support the table extensions. The size depends on if you have the 36 or the 52 model. The support legs on the slider are about 47 inches apart but their position relative to the table changes depending on how you mount it. I mounted mine flush with the table but it could be also mounted 12 inches farther back. The Harvey mobile base makes no allowances for either the slider or the extension table. Hope that helps.
@@Bryanthecellphoneguy I bought the Harvey 2 hp 36" because I could install id on 110v and If I wanted to and used it more than I thought I could convert it to 220v. I'm just a retired hobby woodworker and went from a Delta to this. I did order a Bora roll base. Thanks for the base measurement's so I can assemble it first one time
They do seem to be solid but because 90% of the cuts I make are right angles, I add the extra security of the second handle from the regular mitre gauge just to be sure. Overall I am very pleased with the unit.
Are you still running the slider on the outside of the wong? I am thinking about installing mine like that as well. Dod you drill and tap the holes in the wing or did you drilla whole and use bolts with a nut?
Hi - Did Harvey ever end up getting back to you on why the fence wouldn't lock in the zero position without the extra knob? I ordered the saw and sliding table (hasn't arrived yet) and am curious if they had a good explanation. It's interesting, when I look at the image of the sliding table on their website, there is definitely no hole shown like yours, so perhaps they changed the design? Also - any issues so far with keeping the left side cast iron? I'd be inclined to do the same thing if you haven't noticed any longer-term issues with keeping it in.
Hi Mike. No issues at all with the left wing and the slider. I drilled the holes slightly oversized so I could micro adjust the level and it worked. One thing I found was that if you assemble the slider before you try to attach it to the wing, all the weight is held by the legs and it keeps upur hands free to adjust the level. The issue with the slider not locking seems to have been that I didn't realize that the silver tabs were left hand thread. Once I figured that out it went well. Very happy with the saw overall.
@@dank8017 I have the SawStop version, which I believe is almost identical. the issue is that every time you have to remove the fence from the table, you have to square it up again upon reinstalling. It really is a pain point of these fences. I'd like to think they could find a solution forward in the future.
I was at my local Woodcraft store and noticed the sawstop version for some reason did have the locking positions like the Harvey does. Seems silly not to have them.
@@dank8017I also have the same issue. The locking detects dont work Its a similar design to the compass mitre bar Mark Spagnolo did as review and found the same thing I milled up some stop blocks to easily return to square but it is a poor design
Hi Wayne. Because I live in Canada Powermatic wasn't an option for me. I had a 5 HP saw before and wanted something as strong. I didn't see the value in Sawstop as I don't have students or employees and couldn't justify the extra $2000 for the safety feature. My only other choice was King Industrial. I took a shot on Harvey after reading reviews and thinking a lot about it. I am very happy with the saw. I regularly cut 12/4 hard Maple and it does the job nicely. I would have no issue highly recommending Harvey.
I just bought the slider. The channels on the slider do not appear to be traditional miter slots. Do you happen to know what they are. I want to build/buy some hold down clamps for the slider. Thx
Hi. They are not traditional mitre slots. A traditional mitre slot is 3/8 deep and 3/4 wide with a wider part at the bottom. This is the opposite. Take a close look and you will see the slot is actually narrower at the top. This is why you have to turn the lock nuts in the silver tabs counter clockwise to tighten them. This is really important or the sled will not hold its angle. I made that mistake when I set it up the first time and judging from the replies I got many others did the same. If you want to make some custom hold downs maybe get a hold of Harvey customer service and see if you can buy a couple of the black bars that hold the locking handle. I can't find the exploded parts diagram to get the actual name but it's the piece that the red handle threads into. If they sell them as parts you could use them as a base for what you want yo make. Just a thought...
I had this slider for a while and returned it as there was too much play at the zero setting and like you stated you can't lock it. Harvey told me that was by designed which I feel is crazy..
Now that I figured it out, I actually really enjoy using it. My projects are almost always 90 degree cuts so I just installed the second red knob from the mitre gage as well as the other one and it stays at 90.
Hi Charles. My setup is 103 inches left to right. This is because I added the left wing as well as the slider. I also didn't cut down the fence rail like the instructions said to. You could save 6 inches if you do. Front to back requires 109 inches to allow for the full movement of the slider. The 103 is without extending the left support of the slider. If you extend the support on the slider to its maximum you need another 23 inches. Using a mobile base will not really help here as the factory mobile base doesn't have support for either the slider or the legs on the extension table. I have an additional 24 inches on the left so I could actually put a full 8 foot sheet on the slider but I rarely work with sheet good so that's not really an issue. You could also save some space by not ordering the full 52 inch table and going with the 32 instead. I would definitely add the left cast iron wing regardless of what the book says. Bigger is better when it comes to the table size. Hope this helps.
@@charlesblystone7014 Hi. I wanted to make sure I gave you the right answer with no ambiguity. I just uploaded a video to the channel that should be the best way to do this. Take a look and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks.
Once I discovered that the screws that hold the mitre straight are right hand thread it got better. (I did another video showing this). I also keep the second red handle from the regular mitre gauge in the centre hole all the time. I discovered that it was pretty rare for me to do a cut other than 90 degrees. It still annoys me that the thing doesn't click into the detents and stay put but other than this I am quite pleased with the saw.
I have all the same questions about the slider. Outfeed table is worthless. I have the router table and have a ton of questions about that fence also. Not in any manual about it, or how to use its features. I like the product but they really lack communication. With the slider not locking to zero, it’s nearly a POS, all show and no go.
I totally agree that the outfeed table is too small. I took it apart and made a bigger one with some 3/4 melamine. My slider mitre now seems to be ok. The trick to mine was to realize that the two hex key bolts are left hand thread. Now they don't move once I tighten them. I still use the extra handle from my Compass if I am cutting a heavy slab and want to be sure it stays at 90.
I ordered the 4 hp 50” was not impressed with the casting at all very rough in the miter slots and very pitted. The saw table is cupped on the right and crowded on the left makes it very difficult to install the wings and slider. Not much help from customer service! The fence system is crap! Doesn’t lock smooth shifts slightly the sight glasses are to far away from the tape and the faded felt marker for line in them was disappointing! The slider I received was fairly flat but the carriage was cupped did NOT slide smooth at all! They did replace it fairly fast and was much better. I pulled the Harvey fence system off and reinstalled my Biesemeyer shifted it right for the slider now can cut 72” with the fence also fabricated a bracket and used the aluminum portion of the Harvey fence. Also shifted the slider forward to accommodate 51” installing a new fence on the opposite end of the slider much easier to load sheets from the back of the saw! I also decided not to get rid of my delta x 5 and installed it to the right of the Harvey all utilizing the same fence. I can use it for ripping, 1/4 - 1/4 - 1/4 drawer joints. I have never seen it set up that way but it works well and I have about 7’ of cast iron table! If anyone is curious email me and I’ll send a pic chubbs4691@hotmail.com
Incidentally for anyone coming across this video now you can buy the right side cast iron extension wing for about $150 ish depending on the sale. It gives you more cast iron to the left of the blade and also has holes already in it as it is meant to attach to any of Harvey's other right side tables.
You are saying ....You can buy this Right Wing and put it on the left side? And it still works with sliding ripper St1500? I actually in the middle of researching this setup and am close to pulling the trigger. Do you own it? We cant trust these youtubers these days. Many are straight up shills to these merchants. Then again this saw setup seems to be a good value.
@@djvitornunes But with the sawstop they give you instructions on how to set up the scale on the fence. Very informative and easy. They also tell you how to tighten fence screws left handed threads. All instructions very well written and easy to follow.
Thank you so much for the intelligent and informative analysis. So nice to see videos like this without all the ridiculous memes and shop jocks trying to be comedians.
Hello,
The closer the saw blade is to the protractor pivot point(fulcrum) the less flex or bend will the crosscut fence show when you cut a piece of wood. That's probably why Harvey suggests mounting it on the rightmost track.
yup. Euro-style sliding table saws (SCM/Felder) have the sliding table right next to the blade for this very reason.
thanks for filling in some of the 'blanks' with this saw
Some really good points you raise. I moved the LH cast surface to the right side it doesn’t have the chamfer when rotated to for but gives a good surface on the RH side. Moving the miter gauge to the outer slots is clever except when making cuts close to the blade. I find an issue when using the main fence where the sliding table gauge is in the way and moving it to the outer May solve this for me. I find the large handle / screw tightens down the miter gauge and very successful holds Zero the notch position has potentional to move on its own. Moving the power back to the front rail makes emergency stop so much easier. Thanks for the comments. This is the first I have seen of your videos. Well presented and informative. Thanks.
Sorry to hear you had issues with the saw. For what it's worth Once I finally got through to a manager at Harvey service they were very helpful. I have been using the saw for over a year now and am still very happy with it.
Great video. The lockdown bolt is captive in the silver upper slide, when you turn it, anti clockwise it forces the bottom bar away. Don't over tighteen.
I ordered one when I ordered my table saw but it hasn’t arrived yet. Looking for it to come in. Looking forward to it arriving and setting it up. I was thinking the same thing about the extra 7” iron section and not wanting it to go to waste. Great idea I will be implementing.
The beauty of using the wing is that you can drill the holes wherever you want to. I mounted mine so that the end of the slider is flush with the rail. This only allows 38 inch cross cuts but it keeps the slider from interfering with my movements while using it. If you need to crosscut 48 inches you will need to mount it 12 farther back.
For the extension rule I believe you want to flip it. My Incra mitre 5000 also does this. Basically, when full retracted the beginning of the extension rule and the end of the miter bar rule would read the same. As for zeroing the mitre bar…I have no idea. It’s counter intuitive the have a 45° next to the blade as it’s REALLY difficult to zero.
I'm looking to get one. How easy is it to remove when you want to rip? I had the Sawstop version at one time and didn't like how I had to calibrate it every single time I took it off and back on.
It's actually very simple. Undo two Allen screws and the giant red knob and it comes right off. Reverse the process to reinstall it. The only tricky part is having a place to put it when it's not being used. Mine sits on top of the recycle bin. Handy but out of the way.
@@jbcustomwoodworking4155 Right on, thank you!
I bought one of these to put on my Grizzly G0691 but haven't installed it yet. I used to have a Jessem sliding table that had two knobs you could loosen with your hands and take the fence off when you weren't using it. I wish this one was as easy to remove, because when ripping long sheet goods it would be in the way. I'll let you know my thoughts after I get it installed and use it a bit.
I started removing the mitre guage and fence when I wasn't cutting long pieces. It really just makes for an extra large support surface, which is handy. I mounted mine flush with the saw so the max I can crosscut is 38 inches but that keeps the table out of my way when I am working. So far I am starting to get used to it and liking it.
Hey man. Appreciate the video. I just bought the Harvey table saw and ST-1500 and was trying answer the same question about whether I could keep the left wing on and attach the sliding table to it. I was wondering how you measured out the holes for the left side table so you could attach the sliding table to it?
Hey Sean.
There are a couple of ways to do this. Lay the wing on the table and place a straight edge across it from left to right. Using the original holes on the right side as a guide draw a pencil line across the wing from left to right. This will give you the position of the holes from front to back. You can use masking tape as well. Wrap the tape over the edge so your pencil line continues down the side of the wing. Mark a spot on the pencil line that is in the centre of the thicknes. This gives you the up/ down position for the holes. Stand the wing on edge and use a centre punch to make a mark where you want the holes drilled. Ypu can use a drill press or just a standard drill. Cast iron is easy to drill through. I made the holes a little bit larger than the M8 by 30 bolts so there would be adjustment room to make sure it ended up flush. I missed a bit on the centre hole so mine is only held on by two bolts but this isn't an issue as most of the support comes from the legs. I found it easier to mount the table if I installed the legs first. This way I wasn't fighting the weight as I installed it. I hope this helps.
Thank you for your informative videos. I'm thinking about purchasing the Compass St-1500. Will it work with cross cutting full sheets of plywood (48x96")?
Yes. But make sure you have it all the way in the back position (behind the blade). Measure before you make holes to mount it or you’ll have a dozen holes in your table saw like I now do lol.
First off, thank you for the video. There doesn't seem to be much out there that are actually discussing fit and function of the slider, only brief installation videos or single cut clips. I have this on a Delta Unisaw and kept the left wing on as well. The only issue I am having, is with the wing on it seems to have changed the balance point of the miter bar (having shifted it closer to the blade, there is now more weight of the bar to the right) and it ever so slightly drags on the table top. Is this an issue you came across? How do you have the slider surface mounted in relation to the saw surface?, Flush?, Slightly raised? Thanks again for the time you put into your videos, and any insight is greatly appreciated.
Hi Caleb. When I drilled the holes in the wing I went slightly oversized so I could have som wiggle room for height adjustment s. Right now the slider is flush with the wing. The amount t of drag I get is minimal but when I load up the slider with a very heavy piece I do a couple of thing to counteract the drag. I waxed the tabletop and I use a screw clamp to secure the piece to the slider. Yesterday it was a 25 inch wide 60 inch long slab of 8/4 Maple. It weighed about 80 lbs. On this one I had a problem keeping the end beside the fence flat on the table. The weight seemed to lift it up about 1/4 inch. Careful use of a push stick solved it and once I got it cut down a bit the issue went away. With smaller lighter pieces I have no issue. I also use the handle off my regular Compass mitre guage as a secondary lock to keep the mitre at 0. The vast majority of cuts I do are 90 degrees. Overall I am very happy with the slider. It is so much better than my old crosscut sled. I hope this helps.
@@Bryanthecellphoneguy thanks for the response. I also made slightly over-sized mounting holes, and wax my table top regularly. I think it may just take a bit more fiddling and experience with the slider to dial everything in. Clamp idea is good for sure. Thanks again.
Thanks for the informative videos
what is the max rip capacity when you add the cast iron to the left side and move the miter gauge to the left set of grooves in the sliding table as you shown in the video ?
5:00
I have never had to think about the capacity left of the blade. With the slider in place I wouldn't use the mitre gauge at all and I have successfully trimmed an inch of the bottom of a 7' door. It really is only limited by the space in the shop and the weight of the piece that you are cutting.
Take the main fence on your slider and slide it as close as you can to the blade without hitting it.... Set one of your sliding flip stop approximately 15 in off the blade... Measurement is not critical... Do not move the flip stop... Take a piece of scrap and make a cut... Take a measurement of your of scrap... Whatever the measurement may be... Go to the ruler on your fence.. and set it to the measurement of your cut....
I have the Harvey 2 hp coming soon and wanted to ask you what the base measurements outside are so I can make a rolling base for it. I didn't want the Harvey wheel kit they sell for $79.. Thanks for the help cant wait to start sawing with it.
Hi Thomas.
The base of the saw is 22 inches wide and 24 deep. If you add the slider ypu would need to accommodate the support legs and also you need to find a way to support the table extensions. The size depends on if you have the 36 or the 52 model. The support legs on the slider are about 47 inches apart but their position relative to the table changes depending on how you mount it. I mounted mine flush with the table but it could be also mounted 12 inches farther back. The Harvey mobile base makes no allowances for either the slider or the extension table. Hope that helps.
@@Bryanthecellphoneguy I bought the Harvey 2 hp 36" because I could install id on 110v and If I wanted to and used it more than I thought I could convert it to 220v. I'm just a retired hobby woodworker and went from a Delta to this. I did order a Bora roll base. Thanks for the base measurement's so I can assemble it first one time
Hey great vid! How rigid are the stops? Do they deflect or are they solid?
They do seem to be solid but because 90% of the cuts I make are right angles, I add the extra security of the second handle from the regular mitre gauge just to be sure. Overall I am very pleased with the unit.
Are you still running the slider on the outside of the wong? I am thinking about installing mine like that as well. Dod you drill and tap the holes in the wing or did you drilla whole and use bolts with a nut?
Still running it the same way. No issues. I drilled new holes and used M8 x 30 bolts and nuts.
Hi - Did Harvey ever end up getting back to you on why the fence wouldn't lock in the zero position without the extra knob? I ordered the saw and sliding table (hasn't arrived yet) and am curious if they had a good explanation. It's interesting, when I look at the image of the sliding table on their website, there is definitely no hole shown like yours, so perhaps they changed the design? Also - any issues so far with keeping the left side cast iron? I'd be inclined to do the same thing if you haven't noticed any longer-term issues with keeping it in.
Hi Mike. No issues at all with the left wing and the slider. I drilled the holes slightly oversized so I could micro adjust the level and it worked. One thing I found was that if you assemble the slider before you try to attach it to the wing, all the weight is held by the legs and it keeps upur hands free to adjust the level. The issue with the slider not locking seems to have been that I didn't realize that the silver tabs were left hand thread. Once I figured that out it went well. Very happy with the saw overall.
You use the red knob in the second miter slot to lock the angle in position. Zero reason to put a knob in the calibration hole
Great vedio, thank you! Have you had a chance to try the SS slider?? What are your thoughts? How do they compare??
Sorry if I misunderstood, but have you found a way around not having to square up the fence every time you remove it or loosen it up?
I don't understand the issue either. It has 7 positive locking positions. Other videos I watched it seemed to work fine
@@dank8017 I have the SawStop version, which I believe is almost identical. the issue is that every time you have to remove the fence from the table, you have to square it up again upon reinstalling. It really is a pain point of these fences. I'd like to think they could find a solution forward in the future.
I was at my local Woodcraft store and noticed the sawstop version for some reason did have the locking positions like the Harvey does. Seems silly not to have them.
I have since watched a follow up video he made and he has resolved the issue thru customer support
@@dank8017I also have the same issue. The locking detects dont work Its a similar design to the compass mitre bar Mark Spagnolo did as review and found the same thing
I milled up some stop blocks to easily return to square but it is a poor design
They are two different rulers use the sight glass for the second one. Set it from your blade.
Thinking about the purchase of a Harvey 4 ho dovetail saw. What are your thoughts. Between it and powermatic. Thanks Wayne
Hi Wayne. Because I live in Canada Powermatic wasn't an option for me. I had a 5 HP saw before and wanted something as strong. I didn't see the value in Sawstop as I don't have students or employees and couldn't justify the extra $2000 for the safety feature. My only other choice was King Industrial. I took a shot on Harvey after reading reviews and thinking a lot about it. I am very happy with the saw. I regularly cut 12/4 hard Maple and it does the job nicely. I would have no issue highly recommending Harvey.
I just bought the slider. The channels on the slider do not appear to be traditional miter slots. Do you happen to know what they are. I want to build/buy some hold down clamps for the slider. Thx
Hi. They are not traditional mitre slots. A traditional mitre slot is 3/8 deep and 3/4 wide with a wider part at the bottom. This is the opposite. Take a close look and you will see the slot is actually narrower at the top. This is why you have to turn the lock nuts in the silver tabs counter clockwise to tighten them. This is really important or the sled will not hold its angle. I made that mistake when I set it up the first time and judging from the replies I got many others did the same. If you want to make some custom hold downs maybe get a hold of Harvey customer service and see if you can buy a couple of the black bars that hold the locking handle. I can't find the exploded parts diagram to get the actual name but it's the piece that the red handle threads into. If they sell them as parts you could use them as a base for what you want yo make. Just a thought...
I had this slider for a while and returned it as there was too much play at the zero setting and like you stated you can't lock it. Harvey told me that was by designed which I feel is crazy..
Now that I figured it out, I actually really enjoy using it. My projects are almost always 90 degree cuts so I just installed the second red knob from the mitre gage as well as the other one and it stays at 90.
@@Bryanthecellphoneguy did you ever get a response from Harvey about the slop at 0, or how to lock the measuring scale?
You use the red knob in the second miter slot to lock the angle in position. Zero reason to put a knob in the calibration hole
How wide is your total setup? Looking to get this same saw and slider but I’m limited on room.
Hi Charles. My setup is 103 inches left to right. This is because I added the left wing as well as the slider. I also didn't cut down the fence rail like the instructions said to. You could save 6 inches if you do. Front to back requires 109 inches to allow for the full movement of the slider. The 103 is without extending the left support of the slider. If you extend the support on the slider to its maximum you need another 23 inches. Using a mobile base will not really help here as the factory mobile base doesn't have support for either the slider or the legs on the extension table. I have an additional 24 inches on the left so I could actually put a full 8 foot sheet on the slider but I rarely work with sheet good so that's not really an issue. You could also save some space by not ordering the full 52 inch table and going with the 32 instead. I would definitely add the left cast iron wing regardless of what the book says. Bigger is better when it comes to the table size. Hope this helps.
@@jbcustomwoodworking4155 Is that with the 59” slider support pulled out or as short as it will go? I appreciate your help.
@@charlesblystone7014 Hi. I wanted to make sure I gave you the right answer with no ambiguity. I just uploaded a video to the channel that should be the best way to do this. Take a look and let me know if you have any questions. Thanks.
Hi Brian Have You Found Any Fixes To These Problem's I Have The same Issues On Mins And Not Sure What to Do
Once I discovered that the screws that hold the mitre straight are right hand thread it got better. (I did another video showing this). I also keep the second red handle from the regular mitre gauge in the centre hole all the time. I discovered that it was pretty rare for me to do a cut other than 90 degrees. It still annoys me that the thing doesn't click into the detents and stay put but other than this I am quite pleased with the saw.
@jbcustomwoodworking4155 ok thanks maybe I'll contact harvey and request a red knob
@jbcustomwoodworking4155 still not sure what I can do on the rulers on that device
I have all the same questions about the slider. Outfeed table is worthless. I have the router table and have a ton of questions about that fence also. Not in any manual about it, or how to use its features. I like the product but they really lack communication. With the slider not locking to zero, it’s nearly a POS, all show and no go.
I totally agree that the outfeed table is too small. I took it apart and made a bigger one with some 3/4 melamine. My slider mitre now seems to be ok. The trick to mine was to realize that the two hex key bolts are left hand thread. Now they don't move once I tighten them. I still use the extra handle from my Compass if I am cutting a heavy slab and want to be sure it stays at 90.
Compared to the slider I used to run you have it completely in revere. Spin everything around
You need to read the instructions. Counterclockwise is clearly marked.
Yeah, I just got a new Harvey saw and the owners manual sucks!
Curious why you rely to some questions and not others?
I ordered the 4 hp 50” was not impressed with the casting at all very rough in the miter slots and very pitted. The saw table is cupped on the right and crowded on the left makes it very difficult to install the wings and slider. Not much help from customer service! The fence system is crap! Doesn’t lock smooth shifts slightly the sight glasses are to far away from the tape and the faded felt marker for line in them was disappointing! The slider I received was fairly flat but the carriage was cupped did NOT slide smooth at all! They did replace it fairly fast and was much better. I pulled the Harvey fence system off and reinstalled my Biesemeyer shifted it right for the slider now can cut 72” with the fence also fabricated a bracket and used the aluminum portion of the Harvey fence. Also shifted the slider forward to accommodate 51” installing a new fence on the opposite end of the slider much easier to load sheets from the back of the saw! I also decided not to get rid of my delta x 5 and installed it to the right of the Harvey all utilizing the same fence. I can use it for ripping, 1/4 - 1/4 - 1/4 drawer joints. I have never seen it set up that way but it works well and I have about 7’ of cast iron table! If anyone is curious email me and I’ll send a pic chubbs4691@hotmail.com
Watch ExtremeWoodworker for tips on building jigs for sliding table saws. His videos really helped me.
Incidentally for anyone coming across this video now you can buy the right side cast iron extension wing for about $150 ish depending on the sale. It gives you more cast iron to the left of the blade and also has holes already in it as it is meant to attach to any of Harvey's other right side tables.
You are saying ....You can buy this Right Wing and put it on the left side? And it still works with sliding ripper St1500?
I actually in the middle of researching this setup and am close to pulling the trigger.
Do you own it? We cant trust these youtubers these days. Many are straight up shills to these merchants. Then again this saw setup seems to be a good value.
You've compounded any errors that may exist because of machining differences or flex or wear in the moving assemblies. ** shrug **
Your experience with Harvey is similar to my experience with Saw Stop customer service.. utterly clueless.
These were really big issues for me. Thanks to Harvey’s terrible manual, I wasted many hours. I almost threw this thing in the trash.
U bought a Harvey. That is why u have all these issues. Get a saw stop. Boom.
Harvey manufacturing the sawstop sliding table
@@djvitornunes But with the sawstop they give you instructions on how to set up the scale on the fence. Very informative and easy. They also tell you how to tighten fence screws left handed threads. All instructions very well written and easy to follow.
@@kennethpasko1499 thank you, this is very important.
@@kennethpasko1499 Thank you, this is very important.
Saw Stop .. I will assume you have not had to converse with the "customer service" dept about gross defects.