Didn't know about this saw when I purchased mine. I went with a 3 horse SawStop and love it! It definitely was pricy but have not had any issues with it so far -- a great saw! The Harvey looks like a good saw as well.
Another option for the throat plate screws is thread tape. I have used that on an older grizzly saw I had and it took all the slop out of the screws without sacrificing the ability to adjust the screws if need be. Better option than locktite.
I have the HW110S-52P and don't regret getting the regular tabletop at all. I use Ridge Carbide (based on Stumpy Nubs' recommendation) and they cut exceptionally well when you use the right blade for the correct application (I bought 3 different ones). I feel that the HI/Low fence does have many drawbacks and wish there would be another option when purchasing from Harvey (maybe you could make a deal with Harvey when purchasing to knock off a couple hundred bucks so you can buy whatever aftermarket fence you want). I have come up with a way to securely attach fence jigs to the Harvey fence but the construction would be easier on a Biesemeyer style. One thing to also consider is if you buy ANY OTHER saw brand you get a crap miter gauge and Harvey includes a premium $300 gauge with their saws and that, to me is another big selling point.
Got the ALPHA HW110LC-36P in March and the Compass Miter Gauge now has another eccentric block at the very rear...no slop at all. So I guess they listened. Fence was not completely flat, was getting a couple thou run out in the middle when I ran a indicator in the miter slot. I used painters tape where the fence slides on to take it out and now its within a thou. Had another issue with concave cuts (my fault) and their support guys were very responsive in solving. Arrived in pristine condition and guy brought it right into my garage. I've read some pretty bad reviews of competitors saw's arriving damaged. I was also considering Sawstop and Laguna.
I recommend the Freud 30 tooth Glue Line Rip blade (Not the Diablo cheapie version). It is definitely the best rip blade I have ever used. I like it better for glue line rips than Forrest or Ridge Carbide. I get perfectly smooth rips with no burning on white oak, walnut and hard maple.
Yes. While I have not used the Glue Line Rip, I've used Freud's Industrial Heavy Duty Rip blade blade for several years. It's a thick-kerf blade, which runs more stable than a thin-kerf. I also have this same Harvey 4hp saw, which has plenty of power to run a thick blade even in 8/4 hardwoods. My previous 3hp JET cabinet saw also ran this blade just fine.
I hate when companies give people free saws and then expect us to believe your review. But I feel you we're being honest because you pointed out some minor flaws. Letting us know about the coating was VERY helpful and I would want that plain cast iron. Any coating is always going to wear away or have bonding issues. I wonder what country the saw is made. Looks like a nice saw thanks for the review.
You were asking for a recommendation for saw blades, Stumpy Nubs recommended Ridge Carbide, I tried them also and they are worth the extra you pay for them.
Thanks for a thorough and honest review. I have this saw (minus the TiN coating) on my short list for "someday". I am currently using a Delta Contractors Saw virtually identical to your previous saw and have added many upgrades. One possible upgrade that might work for you on the Harvey is the Peachtree Woodworking auxiliary aluminum box fence extrusion which replaces the original fence extrusion. Looks like it might fit the Harvey and give you the utility for the add-on fences you described for the Biesemayer.
I've never liked fences that don't positive clamp in the back. I've had them. Even the sturdier ones that don't positive lock in the back, move in the back and I'm not about to add 2 steps by installing a magnet on something I move as much as i do the fence. I never feel safe operating a saw that has any sort of play in it. So, as I look at this saw, I'd have to add in another fence to be happy. And maybe that super dooper miter gauge would bridge the difference, but only if it beats my Incra. I have a Harvey band saw and I love it! Zero complaints. Just wish they had free shipping because I was about as far from them as you could be in NA. Good video, useful info.
Thanks; Nice Review. Good job! I agree about the insert plate but I think everything else about the saw is exceptional. I did not get the coating. I do lots of glue line ripping and get excellent glue line rips with CMT's geneal purpose blades. I am sure there are other good blades but I am a CMT lover. Pretty sure your Harvey is not the problem. I am inclined to think it is the sawblades. Also I like the fence. I like the sliding aluminum extrusion on the fence. I can get multiple thin rips without resetting the fence for each cut.
Great review Tyler. Thanks for the input. I have been looking at the Harvey big eye saws and I am really impressed with the dovetail guide system in stead of the trunnion style carriage. I am with you on the tin coating. All my years in woodworking I have never been a fan of coatings other than the factory cast finish. I will be purchasing the 52" Big Eye version of the 4HP saw and setting up my larger shop in the future. Thank again for the pros and cons list.
Been waiting for this review for a while now, thank you for thinking of all kind of minor imperfections to highlight. I don’t feel like any items you brought up take away how overbuilt this saw is
Nice shop. Thinking about extending my detached double car garage and converting it to a better shop than my basement with the uneven cement floor. What dimensions do you have on the work space ?
Love my Harvey. Have the exact same model but just the cast iron top. I use Ridge Carbide blades and have had great cuts with them, glue up ready. I agree about the fence. Used to have a Biesemeyer fence on my old Powermatic and it was great to use. This fence I find the adjustment points seem to loosen and I'm have to reset them frequently.
Tyler, I have this tablesaw here in the UK. The only difference is the name brand and the colour. Here, it's repackaged by a company called Axminster, which has permission from Harvey to repackage and sell here in the UK. I recommend buying Diablo blades they're brilliant, and honestly, I have them in all my tools that take a blade, you should definitely at least try them for yourself. I don't think you will be disappointed with the cut or quality of them. As alway's buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧. P.s I replaced my tablesaw fence with the Incra setup as I too found the original fence to be really more of a pain than anything else, the major thing for me was nomatter what I did the fence would alway flex when pushing the wood through potentially giving me wrong cutting sizes.
I did notice the rear of the miter bar does have an additional track support there now so that should take care of the play. You might check to see if they will upgrade yours.
I have the same problem on the rip cuts - on my saw, the issue is the hi-low aluminum fence. It's not quite 100% square. Try running a dial gauge in the miter slot against the fence and see if you have the same problem.
I want to put the Bora roll cart under my Harvey to move it around and want to put base plate under it. Can the tell me the outside measurements at the base of cabinet so I can slide the saw onto the Boro roller s
I definitely agree with you on the tin top, I regret spending the extra for it. I had rust spots after a week of owning it, I ended up sanding through in some places like you did. The top now looks like a mess. I wonder if anyone has purposely just sanded the whole Tin off so it’s just cast iron.
Tyler I thought I remember your shop being in your basement - is that correct?? I am just wondering how you go it into the basement - how challenging was it?? I am strongly considering this saw but am worried about getting this bad boy down the stairs - TIA from Utica MI
I use CMT blades, been using them on and off for yrs (long before they because a Y-tube influencer thing) decent upper/mid grade blade. Keep them clean no matter what blade you use. Honestly, if not getting a smooth/glue line cut in most cases is the pitch of the blade/arbor. You may have it pitched into, or even out of the fence plane.Maybe the fence is flexing also? Just a few guesses here! Been looking at this saw (without the TI coating) for awhile now. One issue no one seems to talk about with Harvey is Shipping! Had other brands drive right up my driveway without issue.. Harvey's shipper it seems won't deliver if you have a dirt driveway! ugh! Not a complete deterrent, but is major issue if you can't get it to your shop!
My delivery was no problem, dirt and all. They pallet jacked it right into the garage for me. Must depend on the driver and how bad the road actually is. $20 to the driver works wonders. LOL
They will, I actually live on a hill, I had to pay an additional fee to have them drop it in my garage, all went very smooth. To be fair, just about every heavy tool has curbside delivery, so in that Harvey is no different, regardless, for a reasonable fee, they put it right where I wanted it in my garage.
@@BarryJohns they made me take pictures of the driveway and after receiving them said the driver would most likely not deliver as there is a hill and it's a long dirt driveway, but it would be up to the driver. Issue with that is I pay for everything and then it's not a guarantee I'm getting it. yeaaa, no.
If Harvey gave me a saw like this, I must say, I would gladly take it and not turn it down. However, "donated" tool reviews are meaningless to me. I've never seen your videos and I'm sure you are a good woodworker.
You forgot to mention the far end table legs are practically useless (wobbles like crazy). I assume that's one of the reason you built that orange cabinet underneath it lol.
@@DIYTylerAh right. Anyway, thanks to your video I ended up getting the 52" 4HP non-tin Harvey table saw during Black Friday last year. But ya, those skinny table legs are useless lol; they only attach via two bolts on a thin metal rail that is barely screwed on to the bottom of the MDF table top. But I appreciate your honest and thorough video! Keep it up!
Bought my Harvey Alpha HW 110S-36P in late 2022. I have owned many cast iron tool over the last 40 years and my honest assessment is the cast iron surface on my new Harvey Table saw is the absolute worst of any tool I have ever owned. I know how to care for cast iron surfaces too. I have had the jointer for 40 years and it looks good. It has zero rust and I only apply furniture paste wax every 3-4 months. To keep my new Harvey table saw looking halfway decent, I have to work on it every 7 - 10 days to keep significant rust from showing up ( usually in the exact same areas as a few days earlier). I totally regret my purchase from Harvey. Also, I have called to get advice on this issue from Harvey’s customer service and I never get a response from them.
I can't do what you can do I cannot squat on my flat feet, Every time I try I fall backwards, But I know there's no longer in standing on the balls of my feet while i'm squatting, My stupid body has to be stupid
I keep telling people this, Sawstop mechnism is great, but do not buy a Sawstop for that reason alone. Your table saw is the only tool that can have this feature. If you operate your other tools improperly, your Sawstop will not save you. They they always respond with soemthing like, "But if this works even once, it's worth it." I am not denying that. I wish this mechanism can be purchased as an addon to most, if not all, tablle saws as it was initially intended. If you can completely eliminate kickback and your hands are never even close to the blade, why would you need this flesh sensing technology? I recently bought a used combination machine that has an Euro style sliding table saw, shaper, jointer and thickness planer in one package. If I do not have a straight edge on my board, I can either cut it with a track saw or make the first straight edge on the sliding table. Cross cutting large pieces on this saw is easy on the sliding table. I am designing an addon to be fixed to the sliding table to cross cut small pieces or box joint. That means my hands won't be close to blade during cross cut.
I have and a I like it. Not for the low feature particularly but because it allows to slide the fence back behind the blade. That way you can accurately cut narrow pieces using your miter gauge or the sliding table like I have. Many production European saws have this feature. When I was in business we had this on the sliders that were in production.
Because you are being a paid (by the free product) by the company, I take your review with a grain of salt. I’m getting pretty cynical about you guys’ objectivity. My decision to buy a Sawstop was made at a woodworking class I took at a community college. The teacher aide (who was assisting with a “complex” cut”) triggered the safety system and we were all shocked. He would’ve split his middle finger in half when he unknowingly let his hand slip slightly during the cut. He had riving knife in place and was following the other safety rules. Simple mistake…like anyone of us would make. Any new machine in this price range is impressive when it’s new. It’s supposed to be. Since you have kids, and they will use your saw someday, sell your Harvey and buy a Sawstop.
My friend boughr that Table saw. He said ita giving him all kinds of issues. Ive got a Sawstop and i guess he is compairing my Saw stop to his. And there not even close in power or quality. He has used my Saw stop multiple times.
I have the same saw without the gold. You made me glad I didn’t pay extra for it. I love my machine. It’s a beautiful workhorse
Didn't know about this saw when I purchased mine. I went with a 3 horse SawStop and love it! It definitely was pricy but have not had any issues with it so far -- a great saw! The Harvey looks like a good saw as well.
Another option for the throat plate screws is thread tape. I have used that on an older grizzly saw I had and it took all the slop out of the screws without sacrificing the ability to adjust the screws if need be. Better option than locktite.
I have the HW110S-52P and don't regret getting the regular tabletop at all. I use Ridge Carbide (based on Stumpy Nubs' recommendation) and they cut exceptionally well when you use the right blade for the correct application (I bought 3 different ones). I feel that the HI/Low fence does have many drawbacks and wish there would be another option when purchasing from Harvey (maybe you could make a deal with Harvey when purchasing to knock off a couple hundred bucks so you can buy whatever aftermarket fence you want). I have come up with a way to securely attach fence jigs to the Harvey fence but the construction would be easier on a Biesemeyer style. One thing to also consider is if you buy ANY OTHER saw brand you get a crap miter gauge and Harvey includes a premium $300 gauge with their saws and that, to me is another big selling point.
Got the ALPHA HW110LC-36P in March and the Compass Miter Gauge now has another eccentric block at the very rear...no slop at all. So I guess they listened. Fence was not completely flat, was getting a couple thou run out in the middle when I ran a indicator in the miter slot. I used painters tape where the fence slides on to take it out and now its within a thou. Had another issue with concave cuts (my fault) and their support guys were very responsive in solving. Arrived in pristine condition and guy brought it right into my garage. I've read some pretty bad reviews of competitors saw's arriving damaged. I was also considering Sawstop and Laguna.
I recommend the Freud 30 tooth Glue Line Rip blade (Not the Diablo cheapie version). It is definitely the best rip blade I have ever used. I like it better for glue line rips than Forrest or Ridge Carbide. I get perfectly smooth rips with no burning on white oak, walnut and hard maple.
Yes. While I have not used the Glue Line Rip, I've used Freud's Industrial Heavy Duty Rip blade blade for several years. It's a thick-kerf blade, which runs more stable than a thin-kerf. I also have this same Harvey 4hp saw, which has plenty of power to run a thick blade even in 8/4 hardwoods. My previous 3hp JET cabinet saw also ran this blade just fine.
I hate when companies give people free saws and then expect us to believe your review. But I feel you we're being honest because you pointed out some minor flaws. Letting us know about the coating was VERY helpful and I would want that plain cast iron. Any coating is always going to wear away or have bonding issues. I wonder what country the saw is made. Looks like a nice saw thanks for the review.
As much as I like "Stumpy Nubs", I feel as he has sold out his viewers. We'll see how Izzy responds in the future.
China
Love you being upfront with how you got it….it’s a beautiful saw especially for free 😊
I have the Harvey Alpha 2hp, its a dream to work with. I would definitely would recommend and buy Harvey's tools again
Would you go with the 3HP saw now if money and electricity were not an issue?
I agree the manual is lacking. But overall I am impressed with the quality of the saw!
You were asking for a recommendation for saw blades, Stumpy Nubs recommended Ridge Carbide, I tried them also and they are worth the extra you pay for them.
Always nice to have a powerful saw. My Delta Unisaw is 5hp and has not been challenged on everything I have sawn.
Thanks for a thorough and honest review. I have this saw (minus the TiN coating) on my short list for "someday". I am currently using a Delta Contractors Saw virtually identical to your previous saw and have added many upgrades. One possible upgrade that might work for you on the Harvey is the Peachtree Woodworking auxiliary aluminum box fence extrusion which replaces the original fence extrusion. Looks like it might fit the Harvey and give you the utility for the add-on fences you described for the Biesemayer.
I've never liked fences that don't positive clamp in the back. I've had them. Even the sturdier ones that don't positive lock in the back, move in the back and I'm not about to add 2 steps by installing a magnet on something I move as much as i do the fence. I never feel safe operating a saw that has any sort of play in it. So, as I look at this saw, I'd have to add in another fence to be happy. And maybe that super dooper miter gauge would bridge the difference, but only if it beats my Incra. I have a Harvey band saw and I love it! Zero complaints. Just wish they had free shipping because I was about as far from them as you could be in NA. Good video, useful info.
Thanks; Nice Review. Good job! I agree about the insert plate but I think everything else about the saw is exceptional. I did not get the coating. I do lots of glue line ripping and get excellent glue line rips with CMT's geneal purpose blades. I am sure there are other good blades but I am a CMT lover. Pretty sure your Harvey is not the problem. I am inclined to think it is the sawblades. Also I like the fence. I like the sliding aluminum extrusion on the fence. I can get multiple thin rips without resetting the fence for each cut.
Great review Tyler. Thanks for the input. I have been looking at the Harvey big eye saws and I am really impressed with the dovetail guide system in stead of the trunnion style carriage. I am with you on the tin coating. All my years in woodworking I have never been a fan of coatings other than the factory cast finish. I will be purchasing the 52" Big Eye version of the 4HP saw and setting up my larger shop in the future.
Thank again for the pros and cons list.
Awesome. I guarantee you will not be disappointed!
You did good Tyler , I would like to have one myself thank you for sharing info
Been waiting for this review for a while now, thank you for thinking of all kind of minor imperfections to highlight. I don’t feel like any items you brought up take away how overbuilt this saw is
Nice shop. Thinking about extending my detached double car garage and converting it to a better shop than my basement with the uneven cement floor. What dimensions do you have on the work space ?
Love my Harvey. Have the exact same model but just the cast iron top. I use Ridge Carbide blades and have had great cuts with them, glue up ready. I agree about the fence. Used to have a Biesemeyer fence on my old Powermatic and it was great to use. This fence I find the adjustment points seem to loosen and I'm have to reset them frequently.
Can't you just transfer the biesemeyer fence you had on your Powermatic to the Harvey?
What are the options for a mobile base with the 4HP dovetail? Looks a bit larger than the 3HP worm drive models…
Play on shaft shown with indicator is multiplied on sawblade , bigger radius= more movement on sawblade teeth i think.
for cabinets do you recommend the Delta or Harvey ALPHA HW110LC-36P? thanks
Tyler, I have this tablesaw here in the UK. The only difference is the name brand and the colour. Here, it's repackaged by a company called Axminster, which has permission from Harvey to repackage and sell here in the UK. I recommend buying Diablo blades they're brilliant, and honestly, I have them in all my tools that take a blade, you should definitely at least try them for yourself. I don't think you will be disappointed with the cut or quality of them. As alway's buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
P.s I replaced my tablesaw fence with the Incra setup as I too found the original fence to be really more of a pain than anything else, the major thing for me was nomatter what I did the fence would alway flex when pushing the wood through potentially giving me wrong cutting sizes.
That's strange, you would think a company would notice that problem with their fence and not put it into production until it was perfect.
I did notice the rear of the miter bar does have an additional track support there now so that should take care of the play. You might check to see if they will upgrade yours.
Got one in a few days ago! Thanks for letting me know
I have the same problem on the rip cuts - on my saw, the issue is the hi-low aluminum fence. It's not quite 100% square. Try running a dial gauge in the miter slot against the fence and see if you have the same problem.
I want to put the Bora roll cart under my Harvey to move it around and want to put base plate under it. Can the tell me the outside measurements at the base of cabinet so I can slide the saw onto the Boro roller s
The 2hp and 3 Hp look identical, if I had the 2hp version and the motor burned out or if I wanted to upgrade to the 3hp motor is this posible?
Love mine, it is a fantastic saw. Recently upgraded electric to 220 what difference.
I definitely agree with you on the tin top, I regret spending the extra for it. I had rust spots after a week of owning it, I ended up sanding through in some places like you did. The top now looks like a mess. I wonder if anyone has purposely just sanded the whole Tin off so it’s just cast iron.
Nice looking like wheels and fence.
Tyler I thought I remember your shop being in your basement - is that correct?? I am just wondering how you go it into the basement - how challenging was it?? I am strongly considering this saw but am worried about getting this bad boy down the stairs - TIA from Utica MI
I use CMT blades, been using them on and off for yrs (long before they because a Y-tube influencer thing) decent upper/mid grade blade. Keep them clean no matter what blade you use. Honestly, if not getting a smooth/glue line cut in most cases is the pitch of the blade/arbor. You may have it pitched into, or even out of the fence plane.Maybe the fence is flexing also? Just a few guesses here! Been looking at this saw (without the TI coating) for awhile now. One issue no one seems to talk about with Harvey is Shipping! Had other brands drive right up my driveway without issue.. Harvey's shipper it seems won't deliver if you have a dirt driveway! ugh! Not a complete deterrent, but is major issue if you can't get it to your shop!
My delivery was no problem, dirt and all. They pallet jacked it right into the garage for me. Must depend on the driver and how bad the road actually is. $20 to the driver works wonders. LOL
They will, I actually live on a hill, I had to pay an additional fee to have them drop it in my garage, all went very smooth. To be fair, just about every heavy tool has curbside delivery, so in that Harvey is no different, regardless, for a reasonable fee, they put it right where I wanted it in my garage.
@@BarryJohns they made me take pictures of the driveway and after receiving them said the driver would most likely not deliver as there is a hill and it's a long dirt driveway, but it would be up to the driver. Issue with that is I pay for everything and then it's not a guarantee I'm getting it. yeaaa, no.
Great review...
I use mostly CMT & Freud blades.
If Harvey gave me a saw like this, I must say, I would gladly take it and not turn it down. However, "donated" tool reviews are meaningless to me. I've never seen your videos and I'm sure you are a good woodworker.
I was thinking of going for the Tin coating, but that’s $1,200 difference from the 3 HP to the 4 HP with Tin coat.
It’s a bit ironic you have to add a protective finish to protect the protective fish! Lol
Tenryu gold medal blades....😊
Did Harvey approve your review or were you allowed to post it sight unseen?
Harvey reviewed and thanked me for the honest review!👍🏻
@@DIYTyler Nice to have honesty. Congratulations to you too.
You forgot to mention the far end table legs are practically useless (wobbles like crazy). I assume that's one of the reason you built that orange cabinet underneath it lol.
Ah no. Mine does not have legs under the table. The 52" table saw does.
@@DIYTylerAh right. Anyway, thanks to your video I ended up getting the 52" 4HP non-tin Harvey table saw during Black Friday last year. But ya, those skinny table legs are useless lol; they only attach via two bolts on a thin metal rail that is barely screwed on to the bottom of the MDF table top. But I appreciate your honest and thorough video! Keep it up!
Bought my Harvey Alpha HW 110S-36P in late 2022. I have owned many cast iron tool over the last 40 years and my honest assessment is the cast iron surface on my new Harvey Table saw is the absolute worst of any tool I have ever owned. I know how to care for cast iron surfaces too. I have had the jointer for 40 years and it looks good. It has zero rust and I only apply furniture paste wax every 3-4 months. To keep my new Harvey table saw looking halfway decent, I have to work on it every 7 - 10 days to keep significant rust from showing up ( usually in the exact same areas as a few days earlier). I totally regret my purchase from Harvey. Also, I have called to get advice on this issue from Harvey’s customer service and I never get a response from them.
Wow, the tin coating isn't worth the $750 lol?
Not in my opinion, maybe it helps with surface rust? But not impressed.
Where is this model made from china or Taiwan?
I can't do what you can do I cannot squat on my flat feet, Every time I try I fall backwards, But I know there's no longer in standing on the balls of my feet while i'm squatting, My stupid body has to be stupid
Cmt blade or diablo blades I really don't care for forest blades.
CMT. Blades are the best I’ve found so far. Heavy use and affordability make their blades superior.
Honestly, there is no such thing as a glue line rip blade. You could literally throw away thousands of dollars chasing that unicorn.
I keep telling people this, Sawstop mechnism is great, but do not buy a Sawstop for that reason alone. Your table saw is the only tool that can have this feature. If you operate your other tools improperly, your Sawstop will not save you. They they always respond with soemthing like, "But if this works even once, it's worth it." I am not denying that. I wish this mechanism can be purchased as an addon to most, if not all, tablle saws as it was initially intended. If you can completely eliminate kickback and your hands are never even close to the blade, why would you need this flesh sensing technology?
I recently bought a used combination machine that has an Euro style sliding table saw, shaper, jointer and thickness planer in one package. If I do not have a straight edge on my board, I can either cut it with a track saw or make the first straight edge on the sliding table. Cross cutting large pieces on this saw is easy on the sliding table. I am designing an addon to be fixed to the sliding table to cross cut small pieces or box joint. That means my hands won't be close to blade during cross cut.
No one likes that high low fence, and personally I can't think of a use for it...
I have and a I like it. Not for the low feature particularly but because it allows to slide the fence back behind the blade. That way you can accurately cut narrow pieces using your miter gauge or the sliding table like I have. Many production European saws have this feature. When I was in business we had this on the sliders that were in production.
Because you are being a paid (by the free product) by the company, I take your review with a grain of salt. I’m getting pretty cynical about you guys’ objectivity.
My decision to buy a Sawstop was made at a woodworking class I took at a community college. The teacher aide (who was assisting with a “complex” cut”) triggered the safety system and we were all shocked. He would’ve split his middle finger in half when he unknowingly let his hand slip slightly during the cut. He had riving knife in place and was following the other safety rules. Simple mistake…like anyone of us would make.
Any new machine in this price range is impressive when it’s new. It’s supposed to be. Since you have kids, and they will use your saw someday, sell your Harvey and buy a Sawstop.
My friend boughr that Table saw. He said ita giving him all kinds of issues. Ive got a Sawstop and i guess he is compairing my Saw stop to his. And there not even close in power or quality. He has used my Saw stop multiple times.
Unfortunate to hear, I have had no issues. And publicly use this all the time! Have cut rock hard 2.25" hickory and it doesn't even notice