I was thinking by the time you was finished, all that would be left on the lift was 4 wheels, seats and a steering wheel! This work really shouldn't of been necessary on a vehicle of that age, definitely a friday 4:55pm build!
Hi mate I got the same vehicle and replaced the full rear subframe due to accident damage now it's making a nocking from the rear sounds like rear drive shafts are fooked but because I hadn't had the geometry set the dash lit up like xmas tree abs traction gearbox and adaptive suspension inactive etc and the nocking noise disappeared. After watching your vid I presume I need to bleed up the sway bar system is there any advice you can give me any pointers and do I need any special diagnostic thanks
I would think the ARB could be what is knocking if it wasn't bled. We managed to get it to bleed without diagnostics. Disconnect one end of the ARB so you can move it through its full motion. start engine open bleed nipple til fluid runs free of air or slows down. Turn engine off and move ARB up and down and repeat til fluid runs clear with no air. repeat bleeding to the other half of ARB.
@@mlc4x433 hi there I haven't bled the hydraulics yet I got a more pressing issue a mates just had his stolen in my area and I'm trying to work out the best way to stop mine getting jacked so I have disabled the keyless entry but can you advise of any fuses or relays I can remove to immobilize the engine from starting without causing Blackpool illumination on the dash cheers
@@Scott_chegg_1984 I have had a quick look at the fuse box drawings and fuse 60 is engine ecm and fuse 64 is gearbox ecm. Removing either of them will leave you with a big brick.
Hi mate. We show you in part 3 of the L405 series how we managed to do it. We improvised a pressure bottle with an easibleed and turned the ignition on and off a lot
A long process to get to the ACE pipes and if you ask me a stupid system from Land Rover , i'm sure they could have found an easier way of running the system and rooting the lines !!
@@mlc4x433 are the replacement parts made of the same steel that the original parts are made of? If true, does that mean this problem will repeat very soon? How can it be avoided? Thanks.
I would suggest charging the fluid every few years as you would with brake fluid, and keeping the underside of the vehicle or at least the pipework washed and clean regularly.
I’m a flat rate tech in the US and there’s a shortcut to get this done in 6-7 hrs without dropping anything. I’ve done these many times at work and by lunch time I’m done. System bled and all
You definitely have a lot of patience.. Nice informative video!
Thankyou
“What’s wrong with this mate”
Many many things 😂
I was thinking by the time you was finished, all that would be left on the lift was 4 wheels, seats and a steering wheel! This work really shouldn't of been necessary on a vehicle of that age, definitely a friday 4:55pm build!
I agree it was not a very old vehicle with a low milage for all its problems
Can you be my mate and replace the rear anti roll bar rrsport 2011
Hi mate I got the same vehicle and replaced the full rear subframe due to accident damage now it's making a nocking from the rear sounds like rear drive shafts are fooked but because I hadn't had the geometry set the dash lit up like xmas tree abs traction gearbox and adaptive suspension inactive etc and the nocking noise disappeared. After watching your vid I presume I need to bleed up the sway bar system is there any advice you can give me any pointers and do I need any special diagnostic thanks
I would think the ARB could be what is knocking if it wasn't bled. We managed to get it to bleed without diagnostics. Disconnect one end of the ARB so you can move it through its full motion.
start engine open bleed nipple til fluid runs free of air or slows down. Turn engine off and move ARB up and down and repeat til fluid runs clear with no air. repeat bleeding to the other half of ARB.
@@mlc4x433 thanks for your help I will have a try of that weekend 👍
@@Scott_chegg_1984 Good luck. Hope it all goes well
@@mlc4x433 hi there I haven't bled the hydraulics yet I got a more pressing issue a mates just had his stolen in my area and I'm trying to work out the best way to stop mine getting jacked so I have disabled the keyless entry but can you advise of any fuses or relays I can remove to immobilize the engine from starting without causing Blackpool illumination on the dash cheers
@@Scott_chegg_1984 I have had a quick look at the fuse box drawings and fuse 60 is engine ecm and fuse 64 is gearbox ecm.
Removing either of them will leave you with a big brick.
May I ask how you bled it?
Hi mate. We show you in part 3 of the L405 series how we managed to do it.
We improvised a pressure bottle with an easibleed and turned the ignition on and off a lot
what was the over all cost to do this
Overall we did it for about 2.5k
❤❤❤
A long process to get to the ACE pipes and if you ask me a stupid system from Land Rover , i'm sure they could have found an easier way of running the system and rooting the lines !!
I agree, and they used steel which is always going to corrode as well
@@mlc4x433 are the replacement parts made of the same steel that the original parts are made of? If true, does that mean this problem will repeat very soon? How can it be avoided? Thanks.
I would suggest charging the fluid every few years as you would with brake fluid, and keeping the underside of the vehicle or at least the pipework washed and clean regularly.
I’m a flat rate tech in the US and there’s a shortcut to get this done in 6-7 hrs without dropping anything. I’ve done these many times at work and by lunch time I’m done. System bled and all
Someone needs to clean that bloody workshop
I think you're right mate