Tuesday Techniques - Full and Flat Bottom Pattern Adjustments

Continuing in the series of trouser pattern fitting, this topic covers how to make adjustments if you have a full or flat bottom.
If you carry more weight around your bottom area then when you make your toile you may find that the back crotch seam is too tight and it may feel like the trousers are pulling across your hips.
Conversely if you have a flatter bottom than the pattern was designed for you may find you end up with excess fabric at the top of the back thigh area and some looseness at the hip.
To get a better fit for your particular shape a full or flat bottom adjustment can be really helpful. This video covers the steps to make that adjustment on a simple trouser pattern by adjusting the back pattern pieces.

[@NadoCrowFriend]

For all the long hours that are often required to get a great fitting pair of trousers drafted & fitted- Try to remind yourself that once you get it “just right” ( your happy with the fit) you now have a pattern that you can use for years as a staple trouser pattern, and to alter to create other types and styles. Worth every second, in my opinion.

[@natasha4467]

This video is my bible for flat seat adjustments. Every time I sew trousers, I come back and watch it again as a reminder ❤❤❤

[@sewmuchmorefun]

Thank you for such a great comment Natasha! I'm so pleased you find it useful 😁

[@micheleritala4228]

Your description of how the 2-dimensional back pattern wraps to the front and the examples using the mini patterns helped me visualize how to adjust patterns for my flat backside. Before it was always trial and error for me without understanding. Thank you!

[@Anna-kj2bd]

Wonderful! Thank you!!

[@sewmuchmorefun]

So glad you found it helpful! 😁

[@smackenzie5328]

Thank you very much for a wonderful and thorough explanation of this complex issue!!! I am so happy to have found your video.

[@sewmuchmorefun]

Thank you so much for getting in touch. Glad you found it helpful. If you have any questions when you give it a try feel free to get in touch. Good luck with your adjustments! 😁

[@julialandman2638]

Thank you so much for an easy to understand tutorial on flat bottom adjustment. 🌺🌺

[@sewmuchmorefun]

Hi Julia. So glad you found it helpful! Thank you so much for watching!

[@balbie29]

You have given me all of the adjustment answers I need. Thank you so much 😊

[@sewmuchmorefun]

That's great to hear. Would love to see how the adjustments go

[@seestellysew8472]

This too, was very helpful. Thank you.

[@nonnalynn9187]

Very good explanation. Thank you.

[@sewmuchmorefun]

Thank you so much - so glad you found it helpful. If you have any problems when you try to apply it, then just get in touch x

[@judithhuggett936]

Hi I have just found your video on this subject I do have a fuller bottom but only slim thighs so if I adjust for the bottom it makes my problem worse in the thigh area is there so ti can do to correct this

[@hay1707]

Hello, this might sound like a silly question, but do you need to adjust the corresponding areas on the front pattern pieces to mirror the new adjustments? I haven’t tried yet so I don’t know how it’s going to go, but it looks like there’s going to be quite a bit of difference between the pattern pieces now and I don’t understand how it’s going to work sewing them together. Does that make sense? sorry if my wording isn’t great.

[@sewmuchmorefun]

Hi Hayley, thanks for your question and sorry if this wasn't clear from the video. The front and back pattern pieces join at the side and in seams only so provided the changes we make don't affect the length of these seams on the back pattern we shouldn't need to adjust the front pattern piece. So we make the changes in such a way as to add or remove fullness without changing the length of these seams. Hope that helps but if you need more assistance just email me at [e-mail] 😁!

[@tamarynleighwilkinson9324]

Hi there, I'm not sure if i missed it- please let me know if i did and I'll watch again but how do you get the measurement to make the necessary adjustment? Do we measure along the curve of the pattern and then our crotch and use that as a guideline and then add or subtract accordingly? Thank you so much for your help💛

[@sewmuchmorefun]

That's a great question and sorry if that wasn't clear. There are a few ways to do this but yes you can definitely compare your measurements with the pattern crotch measurement as a first check to see how much difference there is. You might then need to make a mock up and check the position of the inside leg seam to see if you need to change the balance between the front and back crotch. If you'd like to chat through it then if you email me I can share more details [e-mail].

[@tamarynleighwilkinson9324]

@@sewmuchmorefun thank you so much💛