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Thank you so much for the feedback. I'm so glad you found it helpful. Thank you for watching and for getting in touch!

Thank you for your lovely message. I'm so glad you found this video helpful - having something to watch alongside the written instructions can definitely make a difference. Have fun with your lapped zip sewing and thank you so much for watching. x

Thanks for your message - so pleased you found it helpful! Good luck with your sewing projects! Thank you so much for watching x

Thank you so much for your feedback. I'm sorry to hear that when you tried this method you didn't get the results you wanted. I didn't experience the symptoms you mention when I used this approach and others that have tried it don't seem to have experienced that either so if you'd like any clarification of any of the steps, please just let me know. We each have our own different approaches to particular techniques and I hope you find one that better suits you. Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences.

Hi Teresa (apologies if you get this response twice - I had problems with the tech!) Thanks for your great question. It's difficult to say exactly which adjustments I'd recommend without seeing you. But it sounds like if you have gaping of the zip at the neckline that could be from some rounding in the upper back. If your pattern has a centre back seam (i.e. a zip) then the simplest adjustment is to take a small amount off the pattern at the centre back neckline, tapering down to nothing when you get level with the middle of the armhole. This creates the same effect as a dart and will pull in the top at the neckline. If your pattern has corresponding facing or lining pieces you need to copy your adjustment to those pieces so that they match. It's a bit difficult to describe in this comment so if you want more information, please just email me at hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk. Good luck and thank you so much for watching.

Thank you so much for this. I was thinking this would be the way, but I kept looking at it and wondering if it distort, but you have given me the confidence to go ahead so it altered the pattern as you suggested. Thanks again, most helpful 👍

@@TeresaScutt It's great to be thinking in that way. The majority of the centre back will still be on grain so this small adjustment should not cause any distortion. You will often see shaping in the centre back seam so as long as you cut the pattern piece matching up the grain line of your fabric with any marked grainlines on the pattern piece that should be fine. Hope it goes well but if you have any further questions, just let me know.

@@sewmuchmorefunfabulous, thank you 🤩

So glad you found it helpful - thank you so much for watching!

Sorry you didn't find this helpful. Hope you find the solution you are looking for.

@@sewmuchmorefun I did! Dresspatternmaking did an excellent comprehensive series that takes different figure types into account and breaks all those issues down where other guides fail. ua-cam.com/video/yZXjEEh2N6s/v-deo.htmlsi=gx2IoKTtJsX9otbs

I'm so glad you found it helpful. Happy sewing 🎉

So glad you found it helpful - thank you so much for watching!

Hi Judith - sorry for the delay in replying! That is a great question and it's definitely a challenge. Since making this video I did then try out a different method for adjusting the fit of trousers - the top down centre out (TDCO) method. In that method you take the original pattern and add 1-2 inches additional seam allowance to the waist and side seams. It works best if you create yourself a waistband that you can use to pin the trousers to so you can get them in the most comfortable position. In the original method they fit using just one leg but I found it easier to fit doing both legs. You sew the crotch seam and inside leg seam and then you position the crotch so it is comfortable (by pinning to the waistband). You then pin the outside leg seam so that it is comfortable. This means you retain the original shape of the centre back/crotch area and utilise additional seam allowance at the waist and outside leg seam to give you the extra room you need. It's difficult to explain fully in this reply but if you'd like more information feel free to email me at hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk and I can give you more info. Hope that helps!

Hi Jean - thanks for your message. I'm not sure if you mean on a jeans pattern or on an existing pair of jeans. If it's on a jeans pattern then I would measure how much of an increase you need at the waist. Let's say the waist needs to be 6cm (2.3 inches) bigger. At the top of the front pattern I would add 1cm on the side seam and then blend that down to nothing level with the hip (approx 7-8 inches down). I would do the same on the back pattern at the side seam. I would then add 1cm to the centre back and again blend to nothing at the hip level. In total that will give you 3cm extra on the left and 3cm extra on the right = 6cm total. Hope that helps but if you'd like more info or if I have misunderstood, drop me an email hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk. Thanks so much for watching!

So glad you found it helpful and thank you so much for watching and getting in touch!

Hi Collene - that's also a great question. Personally I do often do a combination of a rounded back and forward shoulder adjustment but they do each give different results. The forward shoulder adjustment is typically a cosmetic adjustment to visually align the seamline with the top of your shoulder. That's because we are usually taking some off the front bodice and adding some onto the back shoulder. The rounded back adjustment is used to add more length to the back bodice piece between the neck and mid back. This is to allow for the extra fabric required to go over the rounding at the top of the back and to allow the rest of the back to hang straight down (rather than sticking out). It can impact how the garment sits on the shoulders because you can wear the garment pulled a bit closer up to your neck. So if you have some back rounding, I would make that adjustment first. Then see where the shoulder line is positioned and do a forward shoulder if you need that as a second adjustment. Hope that helps but feel free to email me if you want more help - hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk. Thank you so much for watching!! 😁

Hi Elaine. That's a great question and in this case having looked at that pattern I don't think a rounded back adjustment will be the optimal solution. I have a few suggestions but probably a bit too long to detail here. If you email me at hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk I'd be happy to share my thoughts. Thanks so much for the feedback and for watching too! Hope to catch up with you on email soon!

Hi. That's a great question. I'd say the most common reason for this with store bought garments is that they are usually designed for a b cup bra size so if we are larger than a b cup we often need to buy a larger size to fit well across the chest and this means it's sometimes too big on the shoulders and across the back. It's tricky to alter for on ready to wear clothes but when making your own clothes you can choose a pattern size that properly fits the shoulders and back and then make a full bust adjustment if needed. This usually gives a much better fit. Hope that helps but if you'd like more info drop me an email hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk x

Thank you for your lovely feedback. So glad you found it helpful and hope it gives you that extra room and comfort that makes all the difference with our sleeves!

So glad you found it helpful! 😁

So pleased you found it helpful - thank you for watching and for your feedback!

Delighted to hear that you found it helpful - hope you have fun making your trousers!

Amazing!! - so pleased you found the video helpful and well done on another pair of Eve trousers!!

Hi Michelle and thanks for that great question. You are right that making the full bust adjustment does usually lower the bust point, and often that's what we want because commonly larger busts will have their 'peak' in a lower position. The purpose of the bust point is to give us a location to direct our darts or shaping to. If you find that the bust point is not in the right place for you after the bust adjustment then if you have made a toile, I would try it on without sewing up your dart, and then pin it so that the dart points to the 'peak' of your bust but then finishes 1-2 inches away from the actual 'peak' point (unless you are going for the Madonna cone shaped bra look!). You can then transfer your actual dart position back to your pattern by measuring where it is now sitting. Hope that makes sense but if not, drop me an email and I will try to explain further. Thank you so much for watching and so glad you found it helpful.

@@sewmuchmorefun Thank you, this is super helpful! Really appreciate you taking the time to reply. :)

Thank you so much for your message. Great to hear that you had success with your sample and so pleased you now have your zip in your Eve trousers too! If you have any other questions, just let me know! 😀

That's a great question and sorry if that wasn't clear. There are a few ways to do this but yes you can definitely compare your measurements with the pattern crotch measurement as a first check to see how much difference there is. You might then need to make a mock up and check the position of the inside leg seam to see if you need to change the balance between the front and back crotch. If you'd like to chat through it then if you email me I can share more details hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk.

@@sewmuchmorefun thank you so much💛

Hi Cynthia - Towards the end of the video at around 38 mins 20s I share how to make bigger adjustments. 3 inches does seem like quite a lot though so I'm not sure if you are trying to adjust a drop shoulder pattern to try to make it into a more fitted shoulder. If that is the case, if you can email me (hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk) with a bit more information I can give you more help on what to change and things just to check for. Hope that helps.

Thank you so much for the feedback Sharon! Since recording this I got the opportunity to try sewing with stretch thread on a bra making course and it was much more straightforward than I had imagined. Great to hear that you've had great results with it too. Thank you for taking the time to share your experiences and for listening to the podcast 😁

Hi a cord version sounds fab but yes I agree that the zip guard might be a bit bulky. You don't see the zip guard when they are worn so you could definitely make it out of a thinner cotton fabric. It only needs a fairly small piece too. Good luck with them ! 😊

So glad you found it helpful 😊 Thank you so much for the feedback and for watching 🎉

Ah thank you so much Maria - so glad to have the chance to connect with you and delighted to have you as a follower! Thank you for watching x

Great question. The pattern sample I had was for a top with a yoke front but the pattern piece shapes for a back yoke are similar and the adjustment steps would be the same for a back yoke and pattern piece. Hope that helps and sorry if that caused any confusion 😊

Glad you enjoyed it - I love podcasts but it's also lovely to put a face to the voice. Thanks for watching (and listening) Jan!

Yay that's great news! Hope the rest of your steps go well and you have fun wearing them x

Glad you enjoyed it! If you are going to the show I hope you enjoy it!

Thank you so much for your lovely comment. I am so pleased you have found it helpful x

Thank you so much for getting in touch. Glad you found it helpful. If you have any questions when you give it a try feel free to get in touch. Good luck with your adjustments! 😁

Hi @nonnalynn9187! So glad we got to connect here. Thank you so much for watching and I hope you find some tips that you can make use of. If you have any questions then feel free to email me - hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk.

What a wonderful idea! Another note is to play with the contrast of the picture. I'm in process of making a dress with a floral print on a black background. The bust to waist darts were impossible to see. But taking a selfie and editing it to a B&W pic and then reversing that might be just the trick! Now how to figure out the reverse image without expensive software...🤔

Thank you so much - so glad you found it helpful. If you have any problems when you try to apply it, then just get in touch x

Thank you @helenketchen! I'm so glad you found it helpful and if you have any questions when you give it a try just drop me an email hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk. Thank you for watching 😃

Hi @judymorgan319 - thanks for your question and sorry if that wasn't clear. Also apologies for the delay in replying - I thought I had responded but it doesn't seem to have saved it. Anyway, yes the way the adjustment works is such that you do sew the dart and that is to help give the shaping over the shoulder and upper back for the roundness. If the adjustment you are making is small and the resulting dart is small, you can often just ease the bit of extra fabric into either the shoulder or neckband (depending on where you took your dart to) without having to sew the dart but if the adjustment and resulting dart are bigger then its best to either sew it as a dart or pleat. If you need more help then feel free to email me hello@sewmuchmorefun.co.uk. I hope that helps and thank you so much for watching 😄

Thanks so much for your answer!