I would love to see you take a Pattern from 1 of the big 4 and sew it without adjusting it and then explain how you would make the adjustments that you needed to make.
Funniest story I have about fitting is trying to get my extremely cerebral sister to understand . . . I did talk to her about "ease," types of fabric drape, thickness, weave, etc.* but it seems that all that sounded like noise to her and she decided that she only needed measurements. I remember walking in the room as she was sewing up a pair of pants. Upon seeing what she was doing I burst out laughing. She asked me what was so funny, she had all the measurements right! I asked her if she remembered me trying to explain fit to her. She said, "I remember you going on and on about it. I decided that it doesn't make any sense because people in movies clothes fit without being baggy. What you said would make clothes bigger and baggier than a person's body." I told her that people in movies wear stiff undergarments, have people running around them with steamers and aren't allowed to sit down between takes. Try on those pants." Well, the pants FIT but it was almost impossible trying to get them over her feet, she could barely walk, could not sit down or bend. Then SHE started laughing. I thing in time you get a "feel" for fitting. *Which is why as you had in another video you fit 3 times.
the idea to make those slices and spread and add fabric things with your actual mockup is a bit mind blowing. I always looked at my mockups and tried to do those changes on paper and made another mockup... but for learning your method look so much easier (and faster) I definitely have to try that next time!
I use washable children's markers to add guide lines to my mock-up and fold it to mirror changes from left to right. I use red for centre front, bust line and navel line and blue for fixes so both sides match.🙂
This video on “do a mock up” on scrap fabric to work out fabric issues and to customize the sizing finally hit home! Seeing your mock up actually cut, edited with more fabric and pinned made sense to me. In these days of instant gratification and impatiently assuming that if we stick to the pattern with any fabric we’ll be successful in the project.....we’re adjusting the 2D pattern to our 3D body types. Thank you
Overfitting is especially problematic the more flesh you have, as it will move around under your clothes as you move and sit down. If you have a large bust cup size you may only be able to wear one particular bra style if you make your darts fit your shape too well. Turning some of your dart fullness into gathers, tucks or pleats can give you enough room for your body to move, without locking you into one shape. This is not just for extra layers of fat, if you have well developed muscles in your arms you may need to make your sleeves wider, or increase the width of trouser legs. If possible wear your test garment for an hour as you move around the house, this will make stress points more obvious. Standing still in a fitting class is useful to get other people's input, but do not forget to sit down on a chair and walk up some stairs to double check you can move in the garment.
Evelyn, you are an excellent teacher! I want to say that Vintage Sewing School is well worth the time, money (which is very reasonable), etc. If y9ou want to learn the step by step way to do things, then register for the sewing school. I hope I was allowed to say all that, because I am really enjoying the school.
The adding fabric was EYE OPENING! I once over-fit the toile for a wedding dress. When I saw that I was making satin breast bags, I knew it was time to make it less fitted.
This video has fantastic timing! I'm making a complicated Halloween costume and am working on the fit now. The taking away of fabric was intuitive to me but seeing how the adding of fabric changed the fit was a lightbulb moment. Thanks!
Brilliant video ! In the last few years I have been concentrating more on fit, and pattern drafting. I never thought about over- fitting, but I will be aware of it now !
I still have to make adjustments to me by adding padding to my underthings to even both sides of my body up. Then I must wear those underthings when I am trying to get a good fit in my sample. "When trying to get a good fit, always wear the foundation garments you intend to wear under the garment you are going to make". An example : Wear my new support bra with the padding in the right cut instead of a comfortable everyday sports bra; because, my measurements are completely different in each bra.
So much of fitting relies on sight, but going by touch it is even easier to overfit. Have yet to make a 'perfect' item, but each one is unique in its own way. I'm happy to sew for me, but not sure I'd have the confidence to sew for someone else.
Thanks Great video!!!! This is great to know Bcs when t rift hung and one comes across a vintage garment - one can decide if it can beceasily altered to fit better and to identify if there will be enough material to alter and make it fit/work. 🙏
I am so grateful for these helpful videos you provide. One of my hardest problems with fitting--how to take the correction on my muslin and transfer it back to the flat psper pattern. This is especially with depth fitting issues and correction to the "interior" of the garment. I have even asked my dear hubby (who can see in 3D) "how would this be on flat paper? On occasion he has understood and shown me the positioning on paper. For instance: the last mock up you showed in this video with slashes both vertically and horizontally. If you were TAKING AWAY fabric, at the position of the slits and not adding fabric; how would you show that on the paper pattern? Sure hope this makes sense. And I apologize, I wasn't yelling at you, but emphasizing. I wanted to be sure you caught the taking away and not adding fabric. Thank you for any.help in this area.
Thank you, this is a very well timed video. I'm about to cut out the first mock-up for my first ever pants (1950's cigarette style) as well as a dolman sleeve shirt from the same period. I've upsized the pants and done a FBA on the shirt. The paper kind of fits, so I guess it's time to sacrifice some fabric to ye old sewing gods and see how I did. It always comes down to drag lines, doesn't it... - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Cathy that sounds great. I always loved the dolman sleeves. I had a few in my wardrobe in the early 80’s when they came back. I should look into adding some into my wardrobe. Another thing to add to my sewing list! Now all I have to do is figure out how to add me to the priority list that’s the hard part.
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 I got peer pressured into sewing again by the seller I got the cigarette pant pattern from. Lovely senior lady from Louisiana - she's excited to see the finished pants on me. Get yourself on that priority list lady. You deserve to have clothing that fits and looks great on you... Priority lists are hard...
@Steve Zytveld I thought it was cool that a guy, "Steve," was actually going to make a mockup, pants, and a shirt with Dolman sleeves! What dedication from a dude! Lol.🙂
In every ready-made top (knits) I own, the neckline pulls to the left. This results in the garment neckline climbing up the right side and having extra space on the left side. I can temporarily adjust this by rotating the entire bodice to the left. Of course, this does not stay in place for long. I am spatial challenged and can't seem to figure out which alteration is needed when I sew.
Question about toile/ mock-up garments. If you are not making a wearable mock up, how much detail do you ad? Would add a full zipper? Buttons? I feel like I waste a lot of interfacing just doing mock-ups.
I used to do a lot of sewing as a teen and college student in the 70s and never used a mockup. Somehow my sewing projects came out great ...but I did use that seam ripper a lot. Muslin to make a mockup (if you wanted to) was cheap then. (In fact, using unbleached muslin for the actual fabric was trés cool then, cooler than actual bleached muslin, but that was a thing as well.) Ok, muslin is expensive now (for a throw-away). What do you guys use for your toile? I just started sewing again, after a break of about 30 years and don't have enough scrap fabric yet. Buying muslin for all of my mockups is going to get rather spendy. Thanks.
I'm rather new here because I only recently started gaining interest in pattern drafting. I'm 183 cm (6 ft), slender with small bust, super slim waist and curvy hips, short torso, loooong legs, so up until now there is literally no piece of clothing that I purchased and it didn't need any altering. Fun fact: I've been sewing for more than 20 years now - I started when I was maybe 11-12 yo (and I used my great Grandmother's vintage 1935 Singer for the first 10 years) BUT I can only make some alterations to my existing garments and have no idea how to draft patterns! As my top portion is between sizes M and L, my waist is S and my hips are XXL, there is literally no pattern I can use all over... Is there any mathematical way to draft patterns with all my measurements? I'm an engineer, I can easily understand basic pattern drafting if it's more like a technical drawing. Also, I have a new basic Singer sewing machine now and use it mainly for decorative stitches, as the old one - although extremely heavy duty with only changing the needle and tension of the feet and thread - has only straight stitch. Other than a serger which I'm getting soon, I'm contemplating purchasing a more sophisticated and "smart" sewing machine. Is it even worth it?
Flat pattern drafting starts with a paper drafted basic (sloper) pattern that you can then modify to get whatever style you want. theclosethistorian here on UA-cam has a ton of videos on this. She uses the Helen Joseph Armstrong pattern drafting book. There are other pattern drafting methods/book ("metric pattern cutting for women/men/children", Natalie Bray's three book vintage pattern drafting and fitting series). Once you draft the first sloper, you make up a muslin/toile and do all the fitting stuff to get the sloper to fit the best way possible. Once the sloper fits, almost anything you do with that sloper should still fit. Again, theclosethistorian has a great channel on this, as does Diane Diezel (spelling may be off).
I have excess width of fabric in the small of my back. It's not at my waist. Instead it is just above the fullest part of my hips. How can I adjust for this?
I would love to see a video on when it is appropriate and inappropriate to do a French seam. I learned of its existence recently and tried it on a pair of kids pj's. I could not figure the neck and arm holes. So I skipped it on those areas. It could have been my lack of experience or maybe it isn't meant to be used on those areas.
I have one breast way larger than the other. If I get a bra fitting for the lg one, then the smaller one needs sime additional padding & feels like it will fall out. Buying a bra for the smallee one (which is what I do) means just stuffing the larger one in & smoothing it a bit, slightly snug, but simething you can over look. My biggest challenge is my "widow's hump" - where your neck, back & shoulders meet & as from the back & my sides it looks like my head fits straight on my shoulders without any neck at all. You only see my neck now in a straight on view. Most necklines feel like chockers when wearing them. It would be nice for how to cope with fittings for this as my mother & her mother also had this problem.
@@dale3404 I take after my dad's mither's family... big, heavy breasts to start with & have always "sagged" down - no matter what kind of bra I've used. Unfortunately, I have pinched nerves (from various injuries) in my upper back & bras "hurt" if on for too long. I've thought about trying to learn how to make my own, but admit I'm itemidated by that idea. I know I should try, but would prefer try a class in it first.
Sandra Betzina's book 'Fast Fit' would help you fit your back . Add to your center back seam allowence 3.8 cm or 1.5" and slash and spread the mock up from the back side of the armhole to add ease where you need it. Best in three small wedges for even look. May need to taper seam to waist.
What can we do if our sizes do not match any standard pattern purchased but we find ourselves in the situation where the pattern from a smaller number for the top and a larger number for the bottom of the pattern would be suitable (for exemple)? Thank you!!
I've made a mockup the day before yesterday for a light Summe a-line dress. And I've seen that there is a lot of ease in it. 10 cm in bust and hips and 29 cm in the waist. It looks really awful. And I don't know if cutting it new in two smaller sizes will help. The bust dart sits between underside of the breast and my waist. The armholes are gigantic. As are the sleeves. I've decided to first pull up the whole dress so that the shoulder seams will be 5 cm deeper and try looking where the armholes will end the. I must change the bust dart pulling it up. Can I let the bust dart come out of the armhole? Then I have to figure out how to change the sleeve. Only thing is right, is like the picture on the pattern envelope, is the length of the garment.
I'm sure Evelyn did a video on paper patterns that included info on things like "design ease" and some measurements printed onto the actual paper pattern that told you the actual finished measurement of the garment at a certain spot. I seem to remember her measuring the distances on the actual paper pattern to help decide which size to cut out. Sorry I'm not proficient at sewing - I just feel your pain over the "size way too big - what happened??" problem.
@@ugthump2753 thank you. But I've read the pattern explanations. I knew that the dress would be lose which I wanted it to be. I knew that the waist might be very loose because the dress is A-line. But I didn't want the armholes so big and the bustdart so deep. I couldn't imagine how big the whole garment would be. I think I have to cut it again at least two sizes smaller and then still have to lift it up until armholes and bustdart are sitting right.
Have you tried making the garment based on your high bust measurement and not your bust measurement ? Most pattern companies make pattern for a B cup (5cm/2inch of difference between your high bust measurement and bust measurement) so lets say you see the chart and the bust is 100 cm and you think good! so is my bust well that means the high bust would be 95cm based on the B cup chart (100-5=95). And that would mean you would sure fit in the breast section but the whole part over the breast would be way too big if your high bust is smaller than what the size chart measures it as. So in that case what could help is measuring your high bust. Lets say yours is 85 and you have a 100cm bust. You need to use the bust measurement 90cm 85+5 to find out what size is accurate to your high bust and then you can build it up from here using a FBA if need be. Since there is a lot of ease and the dress is A line it might work even better because the shoulder line/high bust is the most important to get right. I don’t know if that’s clear or not I don’t know the pattern or your measurements so it’s hard to say what’s really wrong but hoping for u to find the answer! I know the frustration
@@LS-vq2or hello LS, thank you. Perhaps you gave me a good idea. Since the whole dress is way to big I might try to cut it again with the high bust measurements. Perhaps this will also help with the length between shoulder and bust dart.
I have size 12 shoulders, a size 18 bust and the rest of me is size 14. I am short between the shoulder and the bust point. I can't get a good fit. Can you do so that shows how to manage this please?
The first thing I noticed was the difference in the width of the shoulders. The left shoulder is at least an inch wider than the right. I'm really surprised you didn't notice it when you made the toile. I'd think that would be the first thing to fix.
I would love to see you take a Pattern from 1 of the big 4 and sew it without adjusting it and then explain how you would make the adjustments that you needed to make.
Yes❤
Funniest story I have about fitting is trying to get my extremely cerebral sister to understand . . . I did talk to her about "ease," types of fabric drape, thickness, weave, etc.* but it seems that all that sounded like noise to her and she decided that she only needed measurements. I remember walking in the room as she was sewing up a pair of pants. Upon seeing what she was doing I burst out laughing. She asked me what was so funny, she had all the measurements right! I asked her if she remembered me trying to explain fit to her. She said, "I remember you going on and on about it. I decided that it doesn't make any sense because people in movies clothes fit without being baggy. What you said would make clothes bigger and baggier than a person's body." I told her that people in movies wear stiff undergarments, have people running around them with steamers and aren't allowed to sit down between takes. Try on those pants." Well, the pants FIT but it was almost impossible trying to get them over her feet, she could barely walk, could not sit down or bend. Then SHE started laughing. I thing in time you get a "feel" for fitting. *Which is why as you had in another video you fit 3 times.
the idea to make those slices and spread and add fabric things with your actual mockup is a bit mind blowing. I always looked at my mockups and tried to do those changes on paper and made another mockup... but for learning your method look so much easier (and faster) I definitely have to try that next time!
I use washable children's markers to add guide lines to my mock-up and fold it to mirror changes from left to right. I use red for centre front, bust line and navel line and blue for fixes so both sides match.🙂
The Closet Historian has excellent videos on fabric and dart manipulation.
This video on “do a mock up” on scrap fabric to work out fabric issues and to customize the sizing finally hit home! Seeing your mock up actually cut, edited with more fabric and pinned made sense to me.
In these days of instant gratification and impatiently assuming that if we stick to the pattern with any fabric we’ll be successful in the project.....we’re adjusting the 2D pattern to our 3D body types. Thank you
Off to watch that video!
Overfitting is especially problematic the more flesh you have, as it will move around under your clothes as you move and sit down. If you have a large bust cup size you may only be able to wear one particular bra style if you make your darts fit your shape too well. Turning some of your dart fullness into gathers, tucks or pleats can give you enough room for your body to move, without locking you into one shape. This is not just for extra layers of fat, if you have well developed muscles in your arms you may need to make your sleeves wider, or increase the width of trouser legs. If possible wear your test garment for an hour as you move around the house, this will make stress points more obvious. Standing still in a fitting class is useful to get other people's input, but do not forget to sit down on a chair and walk up some stairs to double check you can move in the garment.
Evelyn, you are an excellent teacher! I want to say that Vintage Sewing School is well worth the time, money (which is very reasonable), etc. If y9ou want to learn the step by step way to do things, then register for the sewing school. I hope I was allowed to say all that, because I am really enjoying the school.
I might just have figured out what is wrong with my basic bodice I’ve put off finishing for months bc of this way of seeing it!! love this video
The adding fabric was EYE OPENING! I once over-fit the toile for a wedding dress. When I saw that I was making satin breast bags, I knew it was time to make it less fitted.
Makes a lot of sense. I'd love to see something like this for pants if you wouldn't mind.
This video has fantastic timing! I'm making a complicated Halloween costume and am working on the fit now. The taking away of fabric was intuitive to me but seeing how the adding of fabric changed the fit was a lightbulb moment. Thanks!
I was so excited to see you show the slash and spread method. You're right, a lot of people seem to focus on just taking away and not adding huh?
i love the thumbnail pic with you reading your own vintage sewing book! so clever!❤️❤️❤️
Thank you for breaking this down. I need to learn more about fitting and this was an enlightening video.
Brilliant video ! In the last few years I have been concentrating more on fit, and pattern drafting. I never thought about over- fitting, but I will be aware of it now !
I still have to make adjustments to me by adding padding to my underthings to even both sides of my body up. Then I must wear those underthings when I am trying to get a good fit in my sample. "When trying to get a good fit, always wear the foundation garments you intend to wear under the garment you are going to make". An example : Wear my new support bra with the padding in the right cut instead of a comfortable everyday sports bra; because, my measurements are completely different in each bra.
Thank you for this. Learning to do alterations.
I struggle with where does this wrinkle feed into? At least I now know more about where to adjust these things. Your videos are always so helpful!
Thank you! Incredibly useful as usual
Thank you for the great info.
I love this so, so much! Thank you: it is clear, simple, and it looks like it's effective!
So much of fitting relies on sight, but going by touch it is even easier to overfit. Have yet to make a 'perfect' item, but each one is unique in its own way. I'm happy to sew for me, but not sure I'd have the confidence to sew for someone else.
This was so helpful thank you!
Thank you for this. Figuring what the lines are trying to tell us has always been my stumbling block.
Thanks Great video!!!! This is great to know Bcs when t rift hung and one comes across a vintage garment - one can decide if it can beceasily altered to fit better and to identify if there will be enough material to alter and make it fit/work. 🙏
This has been extremely helpful!
This is such a valuable video. Use your end results to find where you could have adjusted for true fit. Thank you!!
Great advice, Thank you.
I am so grateful for these helpful videos you provide. One of my hardest problems with fitting--how to take the correction on my muslin and transfer it back to the flat psper pattern. This is especially with depth fitting issues and correction to the "interior" of the garment. I have even asked my dear hubby (who can see in 3D) "how would this be on flat paper?
On occasion he has understood and shown me the positioning on paper. For instance: the last mock up you showed in this video with slashes both vertically and horizontally. If you were TAKING AWAY fabric, at the position of the slits and not adding fabric; how would you show that on the paper pattern? Sure hope this makes sense. And I apologize, I wasn't yelling at you, but emphasizing. I wanted to be sure you caught the taking away and not adding fabric. Thank you for any.help in this area.
Great advise, thank you lovely Evelyn : )
Such valuable information. Thank you❤🌹🙏
Thank you, this is a very well timed video. I'm about to cut out the first mock-up for my first ever pants (1950's cigarette style) as well as a dolman sleeve shirt from the same period. I've upsized the pants and done a FBA on the shirt. The paper kind of fits, so I guess it's time to sacrifice some fabric to ye old sewing gods and see how I did. It always comes down to drag lines, doesn't it...
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
Cathy that sounds great. I always loved the dolman sleeves. I had a few in my wardrobe in the early 80’s when they came back. I should look into adding some into my wardrobe. Another thing to add to my sewing list! Now all I have to do is figure out how to add me to the priority list that’s the hard part.
@@robintheparttimesewer6798 I got peer pressured into sewing again by the seller I got the cigarette pant pattern from. Lovely senior lady from Louisiana - she's excited to see the finished pants on me.
Get yourself on that priority list lady. You deserve to have clothing that fits and looks great on you... Priority lists are hard...
@@stevezytveld6585 Cathy you are so right. I get focussed on the grandson or kids and I forgot I should be on the list too!
@Steve Zytveld I thought it was cool that a guy, "Steve," was actually going to make a mockup, pants, and a shirt with Dolman sleeves! What dedication from a dude! Lol.🙂
In every ready-made top (knits) I own, the neckline pulls to the left. This results in the garment neckline climbing up the right side and having extra space on the left side. I can temporarily adjust this by rotating the entire bodice to the left. Of course, this does not stay in place for long. I am spatial challenged and can't seem to figure out which alteration is needed when I sew.
Question about toile/ mock-up garments. If you are not making a wearable mock up, how much detail do you ad? Would add a full zipper? Buttons? I feel like I waste a lot of interfacing just doing mock-ups.
I used to do a lot of sewing as a teen and college student in the 70s and never used a mockup. Somehow my sewing projects came out great ...but I did use that seam ripper a lot.
Muslin to make a mockup (if you wanted to) was cheap then. (In fact, using unbleached muslin for the actual fabric was trés cool then, cooler than actual bleached muslin, but that was a thing as well.)
Ok, muslin is expensive now (for a throw-away). What do you guys use for your toile? I just started sewing again, after a break of about 30 years and don't have enough scrap fabric yet. Buying muslin for all of my mockups is going to get rather spendy.
Thanks.
Old sheets maybe? If you can find them cheap enough at op shops or garage sales?
Yep, you can definitely over tweak stuff!!
Wow starts at 2:40!!!!!!!
This is great info, thank you!
Adding fabric to the side was my first guess !
Right now I'm contemplating redoing my first garment to fit a little bit better.
I'd love it if you could show us how to sew with wool doublecloth.
Where would you leave fabric to take in or take out for changing bodies?
I have a problem making top for my husband as he has curvature of the spine would love to be able to fit them properly.
I'm rather new here because I only recently started gaining interest in pattern drafting. I'm 183 cm (6 ft), slender with small bust, super slim waist and curvy hips, short torso, loooong legs, so up until now there is literally no piece of clothing that I purchased and it didn't need any altering. Fun fact: I've been sewing for more than 20 years now - I started when I was maybe 11-12 yo (and I used my great Grandmother's vintage 1935 Singer for the first 10 years) BUT I can only make some alterations to my existing garments and have no idea how to draft patterns! As my top portion is between sizes M and L, my waist is S and my hips are XXL, there is literally no pattern I can use all over... Is there any mathematical way to draft patterns with all my measurements? I'm an engineer, I can easily understand basic pattern drafting if it's more like a technical drawing.
Also, I have a new basic Singer sewing machine now and use it mainly for decorative stitches, as the old one - although extremely heavy duty with only changing the needle and tension of the feet and thread - has only straight stitch. Other than a serger which I'm getting soon, I'm contemplating purchasing a more sophisticated and "smart" sewing machine. Is it even worth it?
Flat pattern drafting starts with a paper drafted basic (sloper) pattern that you can then modify to get whatever style you want. theclosethistorian here on UA-cam has a ton of videos on this. She uses the Helen Joseph Armstrong pattern drafting book. There are other pattern drafting methods/book ("metric pattern cutting for women/men/children", Natalie Bray's three book vintage pattern drafting and fitting series). Once you draft the first sloper, you make up a muslin/toile and do all the fitting stuff to get the sloper to fit the best way possible. Once the sloper fits, almost anything you do with that sloper should still fit. Again, theclosethistorian has a great channel on this, as does Diane Diezel (spelling may be off).
I have excess width of fabric in the small of my back. It's not at my waist. Instead it is just above the fullest part of my hips. How can I adjust for this?
I would love to see a video on when it is appropriate and inappropriate to do a French seam. I learned of its existence recently and tried it on a pair of kids pj's. I could not figure the neck and arm holes. So I skipped it on those areas. It could have been my lack of experience or maybe it isn't meant to be used on those areas.
I have one breast way larger than the other. If I get a bra fitting for the lg one, then the smaller one needs sime additional padding & feels like it will fall out. Buying a bra for the smallee one (which is what I do) means just stuffing the larger one in & smoothing it a bit, slightly snug, but simething you can over look.
My biggest challenge is my "widow's hump" - where your neck, back & shoulders meet & as from the back & my sides it looks like my head fits straight on my shoulders without any neck at all. You only see my neck now in a straight on view. Most necklines feel like chockers when wearing them.
It would be nice for how to cope with fittings for this as my mother & her mother also had this problem.
I had a lumpectomy, so one breast is smaller than the other. I buy padded bras, which helps.
@@dale3404 I take after my dad's mither's family... big, heavy breasts to start with & have always "sagged" down - no matter what kind of bra I've used.
Unfortunately, I have pinched nerves (from various injuries) in my upper back & bras "hurt" if on for too long.
I've thought about trying to learn how to make my own, but admit I'm itemidated by that idea. I know I should try, but would prefer try a class in it first.
Sandra Betzina's book 'Fast Fit' would help you fit your back . Add to your center back seam allowence 3.8 cm or 1.5" and slash and spread the mock up from the back side of the armhole to add ease where you need it. Best in three small wedges for even look. May need to taper seam to waist.
What can we do if our sizes do not match any standard pattern purchased but we find ourselves in the situation where the pattern from a smaller number for the top and a larger number for the bottom of the pattern would be suitable (for exemple)? Thank you!!
Adding the fabric is genius. I wish I had a dress form. Well, maybe not, as it would be a constant reminder of my recent weight gain.
I've made a mockup the day before yesterday for a light Summe a-line dress. And I've seen that there is a lot of ease in it. 10 cm in bust and hips and 29 cm in the waist. It looks really awful. And I don't know if cutting it new in two smaller sizes will help. The bust dart sits between underside of the breast and my waist. The armholes are gigantic. As are the sleeves. I've decided to first pull up the whole dress so that the shoulder seams will be 5 cm deeper and try looking where the armholes will end the. I must change the bust dart pulling it up. Can I let the bust dart come out of the armhole? Then I have to figure out how to change the sleeve. Only thing is right, is like the picture on the pattern envelope, is the length of the garment.
I'm sure Evelyn did a video on paper patterns that included info on things like "design ease" and some measurements printed onto the actual paper pattern that told you the actual finished measurement of the garment at a certain spot. I seem to remember her measuring the distances on the actual paper pattern to help decide which size to cut out.
Sorry I'm not proficient at sewing - I just feel your pain over the "size way too big - what happened??" problem.
@@ugthump2753 thank you. But I've read the pattern explanations. I knew that the dress would be lose which I wanted it to be. I knew that the waist might be very loose because the dress is A-line. But I didn't want the armholes so big and the bustdart so deep. I couldn't imagine how big the whole garment would be. I think I have to cut it again at least two sizes smaller and then still have to lift it up until armholes and bustdart are sitting right.
Have you tried making the garment based on your high bust measurement and not your bust measurement ?
Most pattern companies make pattern for a B cup (5cm/2inch of difference between your high bust measurement and bust measurement) so lets say you see the chart and the bust is 100 cm and you think good! so is my bust well that means the high bust would be 95cm based on the B cup chart (100-5=95). And that would mean you would sure fit in the breast section but the whole part over the breast would be way too big if your high bust is smaller than what the size chart measures it as. So in that case what could help is measuring your high bust. Lets say yours is 85 and you have a 100cm bust. You need to use the bust measurement 90cm 85+5 to find out what size is accurate to your high bust and then you can build it up from here using a FBA if need be. Since there is a lot of ease and the dress is A line it might work even better because the shoulder line/high bust is the most important to get right. I don’t know if that’s clear or not I don’t know the pattern or your measurements so it’s hard to say what’s really wrong but hoping for u to find the answer! I know the frustration
@@LS-vq2or hello LS, thank you. Perhaps you gave me a good idea. Since the whole dress is way to big I might try to cut it again with the high bust measurements. Perhaps this will also help with the length between shoulder and bust dart.
😀
Over fitting is like trimming your own fringe - flirting with disaster!
I have size 12 shoulders, a size 18 bust and the rest of me is size 14. I am short between the shoulder and the bust point. I can't get a good fit. Can you do so that shows how to manage this please?
The first thing I noticed was the difference in the width of the shoulders. The left shoulder is at least an inch wider than the right. I'm really surprised you didn't notice it when you made the toile. I'd think that would be the first thing to fix.
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So read the wrinkling.. but to learn how to fix pay money for your school.