This video is an absolute GOD SEND. You explained and made sense of something I have struggled with on countless pairs of pants. I thank you from the bottom of my prominent butt.
Thank you for talking big butts! I'm new to sewing and I just made my first pair of shorts that needed 4 inches of rise added to the back. I was unaware that the pattern was for a flat butt! Now I'm examining my readymade shorts with a ruler and seeing what the crotch depth should look like for my shape.
Thanks so much! ...Good News, I've had the opportunity to meet sewers from around the globe in my Zoom Classes... maybe I'll see you in a class this year :)
this video saved my pants sewing project for my cousin's wedding!!!!!! thank you so much! you are so good at explaining things. I am a complete beginner and this explanation was a game changer. can't thank you enough !!!!
Perfect timing!!!! I’m drafting a pair of dress trousers for my daughter, who has a flat belly, and a full behind and thighs. I was trying to figure the best way to get a good fit with her figure type. You nailed it! Thanks Jennifer!
Girl! You are the bomb!!! For years, I mean YEARS, I have messed up my fabric trying to make pants and shorts. Our heritage gave us well endowed butts and have half made pants and shorts all around the house with abandoned and never worn projects 🙄. I'm serious you made so much sense. I want a class. Can you do one on Zoom??? Hopefully, I can afford it, but how can we contact though. A. Moye
Thank you so much! I have spent a long time developing my Pants Fitting Process!! I am teaching a pants fitting class on Sept 16 & 23 for Fabric Mart Fabrics on Zoom. There are only two spots left (because I'm keeping the class size to 10 so I can spend quality time with each student). Here's a link to it. www.fabricmartfabrics.com/virtual-sewing-classes-and-lectures/the-whole-scoop-a-multi-method-pants-fitting-class-with-jen-stern-september-16-and-23-1-5pm-et-via-zoom If you subscribe to my newsletter you can keep up to date on where I'll be teaching ... I also put other fun in there too! Thanks for watching
Thank you so much! I will definitely be trying out your cut and slide method for my prominent butt. This has always been a challenge for me on alterations to the crotch area/depth.
Thanks so much for your clear and interesting explanations. I relate to the sciatic pains, not any fun at all. It was actually a very common condition I treated in my spa. Stretches can help.
Thanks for the informative descriptions, great visual demonstration and explanations. Much appreciated. Fingers crossed I can fix the back of my pants!
Thanks so much! I am teaching a Shorts for Every Body class with Fabric Mart Fabrics in June... The Fitting is the same as any of my pants fitting classes. :) Here's a link to that class. www.fabricmartfabrics.com/june-classes/shorts-for-every-body-class-with-jen-stern-june-8-and-22-5-30-8pm-et
Thanks a lot! That slide you did is a new method to me that I need to try. But it didn't address other problems I have with pants. I'm curvy and petite and usually choose my hip size to decide my pattern size. I end up with a lot of fabric on my stomach area, my front crotch seam is almost 2 in longer than my true front waistline and my back seam is 2 in shorter. When I try to adjust that, my front and back waistline would end up in a very weired angle and I don't know how to smooth it out. I don't even know what this problem is called so I can look for solutions. My problem isn't that the pants are tight but my back waistline is way lower and my front is way higher.
Happy this helped! To fix your too long front crotch you can shorten it and raise the curve. Here's a tutorial for that: ua-cam.com/video/vinYE0OwTwc/v-deo.html To lengthen the back crotch, you would do the same slash in the back... but spread the pattern instead of overlap. You can also add to the crotch wedge... Here's a tutorial for that: ua-cam.com/video/YIhNc4ZneNM/v-deo.html Thanks for fitting along with me!
Thank you, Jen. This makes a lot of sense. I see you made this video before exploring the top down center out method. could you comment on how/if I would address the full butt issue in the TDCO method? would it just resolve itself as I fit the center? thanks!
I still consider the measurement of the upper thigh when I'm trying to decide how to make more room for a prominent behind. The good news is that because you're starting with a single leg muslin, you can add extra seam allowance to the inseam and side seam. This allows you to decide if you need to let out the crotch points to make more room... or let out the side seams (or both). Check out this video showing how prepare your pattern pieces after you trace your size. ua-cam.com/video/eZUsbnpDCaM/v-deo.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
How do you know how much to slide the pattern over? Also, what is you can't blend lines back together because of significant slide over? I just completed a long haul of a pant alteration and the truing the pattern is/was a challenge. This video was very helpful and informative for my future sewing thank you
That's a great question. Get in front of your two mirror set up so you can see the back view. Pinch the CB seam until the wrinkles under your butt start to smooth. 1/2 the total amount you pinched is a good guide to how much to shift the pattern over. Start by shifting is slightly less than you pinched... you can always sew along the CB seam deeper and let out the side seam if you need to move it a little more in your fit muslin. When it comes to transferring adjustments from your fit muslin to your paper pattern pieces. My advice is to transfer adjustments as you make them and confirm that they are working. If you wait till the end of the fitting process, it can get a little hairy to keep track of everything! Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Oh this was really really interesting. I think I have a prominent but not necessarily full butt so I have a problem with dresses in that they’re not pulling but my back hemline lifts about two inches. This is frustrating. When I’ve tried to adapt by adding a wedge to the back seam it chews the pattern perhaps because of the amount? So I’m adding to the hem which solves the problem but probably isn’t right. Would welcome your views or if you have a video, please point me in that direction.
:) Another thing you can try is to angle the CB seam a little farther away from CB... This gives you more room inside. Also, Have you tried working with a single leg muslin and separate pants fitting waistband? After working with Ruth & TDCO, I've added these elements to my pants fitting process combined with body specific adjustments & adding fit allowances to the inseam as well as above the waistline and side seam. I did a troubleshooting pants fitting series that shows how to picks starting size, pattern prep, cutting and sewing the fit muslin. Here's a link to part 1 of this if you'd like to check it out! Thanks for fitting along with me. ua-cam.com/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/v-deo.html
Thank you so much. My question is, will this eliminate the stress lines on the crotch that look like they are pointing inwards from the front and back on the crotch?
Without seeing what's going on... if you have tight stress lines pointing from the crotch front and back, It may be that you need more crotch extension.. Or it could be that the rise is too short and it's pulling vertically. The easiest thing to do to figure that out is to pull the waistline down a little bit to see if the wrinkles relax... If they don't... then try making more depth as shown here! Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Thank you so much for this video. I have a wide-leg pant that is too tight in the crotch. I am not sure if the issue is the need for a taller waistband or increasing the space as you have done in this video. Do you have any tips for knowing which it is? I do feel like I have to keep pulling the pants down to stop the tugging in the crotch so perhaps it is a longer waistband, or increasing the length above the hip.
My Pleasure!! If you can feel the problem in the crotch area, then it's most likely you need more room "front to back" vs adding to the rise at the waistline. If you have enough room on your upper thigh, you can't extend the crotch points to make more room because the leg will become too baggy... So, scoop the back of the back crotch curve by sliding over toward the side seam as shown in this video. This will lengthen the crotch extension from the inside. If you scoop, you will need to let out the side seam at the full hip level. If you slash and slide the top of the leg over, you will need to true up the side seam below the adjustment. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
This a exactly the info I’ve been looking for. Now after making the prominent butt adjustment could you then add darts to the waistline to snug it up so there isn’t a gap at the back waist?
Happy this helped... and yes, you can add waist darts... You can also angle the CB seam to fit the waistline... Here's a tutorial for that ua-cam.com/video/ZTco_3LdNIY/v-deo.html
Nice! I just made a pair from a pattern I hope to use many times and the only real problem is…the back is too short but the front waist height is fine. May just try adding more length to back and to front sides? (I had added a little to crotch and they fit well there.
So happy you're making pants! If the crotch, inner thigh feels like it fits well... You can add to the waistline at CB and blend toward the side seams... If you add to the back side seam, add a like amount to the front side seam... Then blend to 0 before you get to CF.
Thank you so much! I had another ha-ha moment with this video of your comparison of ways to alter for a full butt. I just love your way of teaching : this rap-up video made me realize how and why, with my small back upper thigh, I need to give myself more space for my butt not by simply extending the crotch point! (And why this alteration alway gave me trouble, because adding to much fabric I didn’t needed on my back leg).
I have a question. Do I buy the pants pattern based on waist measurement if I know I'm going to need a seat adjustment anyway? Or do I buy a pattern based on hip measurement mock it and then tweak? What's the order of operations?
That's a great question!! I consider the full hip measurement first to pick the starting size. If you're waist and upper thighs/legs are smaller or larger, you can pick a bigger or smaller size for the CF/CB Inseam ... best of both worlds.. ps, I first heard about picking multiple sizes instead of blending between sizes on the same line from Ruth Collins and TDCO. You can find more information by watching my series here: ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNsN64DwwVI5Phfgbuzn07zK.html
If we cut out part of the crotch but don't add it back to the side seam, would that work well as a way to reduce the size of the waist? i have an 18" different between waist and hips/butt (and thighs only 3 inches smaller than my waist) so any help with how to adjust for that would be amazing!
For a waist to full hip difference of 18 inches, you can angle the CB seam toward the side seam, trimming off some of the excess at the waist measurement... You can also reduce the waist measurement by closing some of the waist dart intake. Here's a tutorial for this: ua-cam.com/video/4z-VGr7hdi4/v-deo.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
I know this sounds like a stupid question but when you move the pattern over do you connect the original cutting line or the stitching line. The reason I'm asking is my original stitching line I can connect it very easily but not the original cutting line.
No stupid questions here :)) When you move the top of the pattern over, you are not connecting either cutting or stitching lines. You're sliding it over the amount you need ... then you true up the cutting edge (which will also true up the sewing line. To true up... find the middle of the section of the top portion of the pattern that's extending past the lower portion. Skim a little off the top section to the middle mark and add to the lower section to create a smooth transition. ... Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Hi! Could you please offer some advice on what can be done in relation to this issue for already made pants? I've heard inserting a triangular/diamond shaped fabric from the side seam from the waistband could help.
@@JSternDesigns I checked that video out prior! Great resource. However, my tailor told me that in the case of a prominent butt, it’s best to add fabric to the hips via the triangle fabric at the side seam, rather than doing something to the crotch.
Yes, and I would angle the CB seam a little bit more toward the side seam to create more room inside your pants for your prominent butt & less along the waistline for your defined waistline... You can also angle the CF edge toward the side seam a little bit to help fit your defined waistline :) Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Does shifting the upper back part have any significant influence on the balance of the pant? Another question: will the grain direction be the same (that from the lower pant part)?
The grainline above the adjustment will shift toward the side seam... Reestablish the vertical grainline from below the adjustment. Keep an eye on the top of the vertical grainline after it's been reestablished. If it gets too close to the CB edge (less than 2" away is a general guideline), you will need to adjust it back a little bit. Here's a tutorial showing how to do this ua-cam.com/video/4E1kOcUfKQM/v-deo.html
@@JSternDesigns Wow, another logical puzzle... Thanks for the link! Love holding your hand and walking through all those mysteries! Very generous of you providing the info for free!
Extending the side seam out on the pants back for a prominent butt and then redrawing the side seam, do i do the same for the front side seam in order for it to match up nicely?
If you're working with the TDCO method, you will be adding to the side and inseams before cutting out a single leg muslin. You can work out the exact shape of the side seams when you start fitting. Even if you're not working with the TDCO method, I always add extra "safety" seam allowances to the side seams so I can fine-tune the fit. Hope this helps, thank you for fitting along with me
When adjusting do we half the measurement we want to add (due to having two back pant cuts) or do we quarter it (for two front cuts and two back cuts)?.
That's a great question! Usually when you do adjustments they are "doubled" when you cut out the pattern piece on a folded piece of fabric to get a left and right leg. When you're adjusting the crotch points... the benefit of that adjustment is the whole amount of the adjustment. So if you extend the crotch point 1/2"... The left leg will get 1/2" and the right leg will get 1/2 to wrap around the leg... It's not combined or doubled like adding to a side seam. Hope that helps! Thanks for following along with me!
I have vertical lines across the front crotch area and have about 1/2 inches of extra fabric. I can pinch out about 1/2 inch. Does this mean I need to remove this amount from the front piece of the pattern or do I possibly need to redraw the crotch curve?
I would pinch up the excess length at the base of the crotch to see if it smooths the wrinkles. If it doesn't, they it may be that you need to change the shape of the curve. If you have loose vertical wrinkles scoop more to pull out some of the excess fabric. If you have tight horizontal wrinkles, reduce the scoop by sewing a little closer to the raw edges to relax the fabric. Let me know if this makes sense! Thanks for fitting along with me!
@@JSternDesigns so sorry guess I wasn’t thinking straight 😬. I meant to say Horizontal lines. Left to right excess fabric that I can pinch out about 1/2 inch.
I have a curvy butt so I have to extend the back crotch curve out a lot. We’re talking about 3 inches. Then I run into the leg width at the thighs being huge. I also have to lower the front. How do I do that adjustment where the legs are not so wide? I’m only 5’1.
How to adjust for a curvy butt without adding to the upper thigh starts at 8:59 ...And, here's a tutorial showing how to adjust for a titled waist. A forward tilted waist requires the front to be lowered. If you're waist is not tilted, you can just adjust the front (don't tape the legs together). Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me ua-cam.com/video/QvhocHFRPGU/v-deo.html
@@JSternDesigns I will still need to extend the crotch points out on the back. Like I said I can’t seem to blend it in to make the thighs not huge and have it match up with the front. I had read to take a dart on the back vertically on the back leg. That seems odd to me!
A sway back adjustment for pants involves lengthening the CB rise to get the waistline to sit where you need it... You can do this adjustment with any shape butt. A full butt also needs more vertical length...and width. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
That's a great question! If you're working with non-stretch fabric, go with the 27" measurement. If you're working with stretch fabric, ... split the difference and use 26" :)
Hi, your tutorial is brilliant- thank you! Could you tell me how i know what sort of behind I have whenlooking sideways in the mirror? I think i must have a prominent butt - i have full buttocks. Thank you!
When you're trying to figure out what shape you have... start by noticing where the fullest part of your behind is (between you waistline and crotch level. If it's closer to the waist you have a high round behind, if it's in the middle you have an average behind, If it's at or lower than crotch level you have a low behind. Then look at the shape of the curve. If you do not have a prominent curve, you have a flat butt. If you have a prominent curve, you have a prominent butt... Consider both the vertical and horizontal dimensions to identify the shape of you butt. For example you could have a low prominent butt or a high prominent butt or an average prominent butt! Hope this helps!
Thanks so much for replying. I've never gazed at the shape of my butt in the mirror before! I think it must be average as I can't tell whether the fullest part is nearer my waist or my crotch. Definitely prominent! It's a pretty even curve all around. I'm changing my mind now and thinking maybe it's a low behind. The shorts I made were pulling in a little nearer the crotch so I'm now looking at the pattern pieces before cutting out a second pair. Thank you SO much for the very clear guidance. Excited to be making adjustments! I have a commercial culottes pattern. Is there a good way to check whether the butt shape will fit me? I could compare it to my adjusted shorts around the crotch? Thank you!
Can you measure your crotch length by measuring the front and back areas while sitting much like measuring the crotch depth? Sitting here I can look down on the front of my crotch , and then put my hand to the back where my butt hits the chair sitting up straight. I wonder if that would be a good way to measure the crotch "width" for someone with a prominent butt?
That's a great questions! I got my tape measure out and I measured my crotch length standing... Then I sat down and measured again. ...I got the opposite result that I thought I was going to get. My measurement actually got shorter by 3/4"... and I think the part that "shortened" was the part I was sitting on. (probably because flesh spreads when you sit). So, I think the best thing to do is to put a fit elastic around you so it's positioned at crotch level (where you curve inward front and back)... The elastic might not be parallel to the floor because your curves might not agree vertically. Then measure from the elastic in the front to back... while standing up! Let me know if this helps.
:) a butt is considered low when the fullest part is lower than your crotch level. Here's a tutorial explaining more... Thanks for fitting along with me ua-cam.com/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/v-deo.html
This video is an absolute GOD SEND. You explained and made sense of something I have struggled with on countless pairs of pants. I thank you from the bottom of my prominent butt.
So happy this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
This was very helpful in explaining why and when to use the different methods for a prominent butt. Thank you so much for making this video.
My Pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for talking big butts! I'm new to sewing and I just made my first pair of shorts that needed 4 inches of rise added to the back. I was unaware that the pattern was for a flat butt! Now I'm examining my readymade shorts with a ruler and seeing what the crotch depth should look like for my shape.
This was fantastic. I wish l lived on your side of the world so l could take your class. You explain things so well
Thanks so much! ...Good News, I've had the opportunity to meet sewers from around the globe in my Zoom Classes... maybe I'll see you in a class this year :)
this is so helpful !!! you explained so straightforwardly
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me
this video saved my pants sewing project for my cousin's wedding!!!!!! thank you so much! you are so good at explaining things. I am a complete beginner and this explanation was a game changer. can't thank you enough !!!!
I'm so happy to help! I hope you enjoy your cousin's wedding. Thanks for fitting along with me!
Perfect timing!!!! I’m drafting a pair of dress trousers for my daughter, who has a flat belly, and a full behind and thighs. I was trying to figure the best way to get a good fit with her figure type. You nailed it! Thanks Jennifer!
I'm so happy this helped you with your daughter's pants pattern... So excited that you're drafting patterns!! Thanks for following along with me
I have been looking for this video for months now 🙏
So happy you found it! thanks for fitting along with me
Excellent simple demo! Thank you
You are welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
Brilliant video! I’ve been trying to figure this adjustment out for Ages! Thank you Sooooo Much!
So happy to hear this helped you!! Thanks for fitting along with me
What a GREAT video. I've made so many pants that just don't quite fit right. Your explanations are very clear to me.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
This is amazing. I have a prominent butt and I've always struggled how to adjust pant patterns. Thank you!!
So happy this helps... thank you for fitting along with me!
Girl! You are the bomb!!! For years, I mean YEARS, I have messed up my fabric trying to make pants and shorts. Our heritage gave us well endowed butts and have half made pants and shorts all around the house with abandoned and never worn projects 🙄. I'm serious you made so much sense. I want a class. Can you do one on Zoom??? Hopefully, I can afford it, but how can we contact though. A. Moye
Thank you so much! I have spent a long time developing my Pants Fitting Process!! I am teaching a pants fitting class on Sept 16 & 23 for Fabric Mart Fabrics on Zoom. There are only two spots left (because I'm keeping the class size to 10 so I can spend quality time with each student). Here's a link to it. www.fabricmartfabrics.com/virtual-sewing-classes-and-lectures/the-whole-scoop-a-multi-method-pants-fitting-class-with-jen-stern-september-16-and-23-1-5pm-et-via-zoom If you subscribe to my newsletter you can keep up to date on where I'll be teaching ... I also put other fun in there too! Thanks for watching
Applause 👏🏾. Loved this. You are an excellent teacher!! Blessings.
Thank you so much for the kind words.. & for sewing along with me!
Jen, you always explain things clearly and make them appear simple. I really appreciate your help understanding how to fit my body
Thanks so much, and thank you for fitting along with me!
Terrific review - I need to add one of your pants classes to my agenda this year!
Fabric Mart is hosting her pants making in January.
Thanks so much!
Dear Jen! Thank you so much for your time. I've learned a lot from your fitting videos!
So Happy to Hear... Thanks for fitting along with me!
Thank you for this helpful information! Love the cut and slide method. Easier to redraw the seams even though it's scary to slash the pattern 😄
Thank you so much! I will definitely be trying out your cut and slide method for my prominent butt. This has always been a challenge for me on alterations to the crotch area/depth.
My Pleasure! & Thank you so much!
Thanks so much for your clear and interesting explanations. I relate to the sciatic pains, not any fun at all. It was actually a very common condition I treated in my spa. Stretches can help.
Thanks! I am stretching :)
Thanks for the informative descriptions, great visual demonstration and explanations. Much appreciated. Fingers crossed I can fix the back of my pants!
Thank you, keep me posted if you need help!
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I'll be sure to look to see if your class will be offered again!
Thanks so much! I am teaching a Shorts for Every Body class with Fabric Mart Fabrics in June... The Fitting is the same as any of my pants fitting classes. :) Here's a link to that class. www.fabricmartfabrics.com/june-classes/shorts-for-every-body-class-with-jen-stern-june-8-and-22-5-30-8pm-et
This was SO helpful! Thanks so much!
So Happy this Helps You! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks a lot! That slide you did is a new method to me that I need to try. But it didn't address other problems I have with pants. I'm curvy and petite and usually choose my hip size to decide my pattern size. I end up with a lot of fabric on my stomach area, my front crotch seam is almost 2 in longer than my true front waistline and my back seam is 2 in shorter. When I try to adjust that, my front and back waistline would end up in a very weired angle and I don't know how to smooth it out. I don't even know what this problem is called so I can look for solutions. My problem isn't that the pants are tight but my back waistline is way lower and my front is way higher.
Happy this helped! To fix your too long front crotch you can shorten it and raise the curve. Here's a tutorial for that: ua-cam.com/video/vinYE0OwTwc/v-deo.html To lengthen the back crotch, you would do the same slash in the back... but spread the pattern instead of overlap. You can also add to the crotch wedge... Here's a tutorial for that: ua-cam.com/video/YIhNc4ZneNM/v-deo.html Thanks for fitting along with me!
@@JSternDesigns thank you very much! I'll check those out.
Thank you, Jen. This makes a lot of sense. I see you made this video before exploring the top down center out method. could you comment on how/if I would address the full butt issue in the TDCO method? would it just resolve itself as I fit the center? thanks!
I still consider the measurement of the upper thigh when I'm trying to decide how to make more room for a prominent behind. The good news is that because you're starting with a single leg muslin, you can add extra seam allowance to the inseam and side seam. This allows you to decide if you need to let out the crotch points to make more room... or let out the side seams (or both). Check out this video showing how prepare your pattern pieces after you trace your size. ua-cam.com/video/eZUsbnpDCaM/v-deo.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
This is so helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
This video is so useful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
How do you know how much to slide the pattern over? Also, what is you can't blend lines back together because of significant slide over? I just completed a long haul of a pant alteration and the truing the pattern is/was a challenge. This video was very helpful and informative for my future sewing thank you
That's a great question. Get in front of your two mirror set up so you can see the back view. Pinch the CB seam until the wrinkles under your butt start to smooth. 1/2 the total amount you pinched is a good guide to how much to shift the pattern over. Start by shifting is slightly less than you pinched... you can always sew along the CB seam deeper and let out the side seam if you need to move it a little more in your fit muslin. When it comes to transferring adjustments from your fit muslin to your paper pattern pieces. My advice is to transfer adjustments as you make them and confirm that they are working. If you wait till the end of the fitting process, it can get a little hairy to keep track of everything! Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Super helpful! Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
You are the best. Thank you 😊
:) Thank you for the kind words and for fitting along with me
Oh this was really really interesting. I think I have a prominent but not necessarily full butt so I have a problem with dresses in that they’re not pulling but my back hemline lifts about two inches. This is frustrating. When I’ve tried to adapt by adding a wedge to the back seam it chews the pattern perhaps because of the amount? So I’m adding to the hem which solves the problem but probably isn’t right. Would welcome your views or if you have a video, please point me in that direction.
:) Another thing you can try is to angle the CB seam a little farther away from CB... This gives you more room inside. Also, Have you tried working with a single leg muslin and separate pants fitting waistband? After working with Ruth & TDCO, I've added these elements to my pants fitting process combined with body specific adjustments & adding fit allowances to the inseam as well as above the waistline and side seam. I did a troubleshooting pants fitting series that shows how to picks starting size, pattern prep, cutting and sewing the fit muslin. Here's a link to part 1 of this if you'd like to check it out! Thanks for fitting along with me. ua-cam.com/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/v-deo.html
Thank you for this video!
My pleasure ...Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for the explanation of This!
You're welcome... Thank so much for watching!
Thank you so much. My question is, will this eliminate the stress lines on the crotch that look like they are pointing inwards from the front and back on the crotch?
Without seeing what's going on... if you have tight stress lines pointing from the crotch front and back, It may be that you need more crotch extension.. Or it could be that the rise is too short and it's pulling vertically. The easiest thing to do to figure that out is to pull the waistline down a little bit to see if the wrinkles relax... If they don't... then try making more depth as shown here! Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Excellent !!😊😊😊😊😊😊
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you so much for this video. I have a wide-leg pant that is too tight in the crotch. I am not sure if the issue is the need for a taller waistband or increasing the space as you have done in this video. Do you have any tips for knowing which it is? I do feel like I have to keep pulling the pants down to stop the tugging in the crotch so perhaps it is a longer waistband, or increasing the length above the hip.
My Pleasure!! If you can feel the problem in the crotch area, then it's most likely you need more room "front to back" vs adding to the rise at the waistline. If you have enough room on your upper thigh, you can't extend the crotch points to make more room because the leg will become too baggy... So, scoop the back of the back crotch curve by sliding over toward the side seam as shown in this video. This will lengthen the crotch extension from the inside. If you scoop, you will need to let out the side seam at the full hip level. If you slash and slide the top of the leg over, you will need to true up the side seam below the adjustment. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
This a exactly the info I’ve been looking for. Now after making the prominent butt adjustment could you then add darts to the waistline to snug it up so there isn’t a gap at the back waist?
Happy this helped... and yes, you can add waist darts... You can also angle the CB seam to fit the waistline... Here's a tutorial for that ua-cam.com/video/ZTco_3LdNIY/v-deo.html
Nice! I just made a pair from a pattern I hope to use many times and the only real problem is…the back is too short but the front waist height is fine. May just try adding more length to back and to front sides? (I had added a little to crotch and they fit well there.
So happy you're making pants! If the crotch, inner thigh feels like it fits well... You can add to the waistline at CB and blend toward the side seams... If you add to the back side seam, add a like amount to the front side seam... Then blend to 0 before you get to CF.
Thank you so much! I had another ha-ha moment with this video of your comparison of ways to alter for a full butt. I just love your way of teaching : this rap-up video made me realize how and why, with my small back upper thigh, I need to give myself more space for my butt not by simply extending the crotch point! (And why this alteration alway gave me trouble, because adding to much fabric I didn’t needed on my back leg).
I'm so happy to hear!! Thank you for for fitting along with me!
Thank you so much!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I have a question. Do I buy the pants pattern based on waist measurement if I know I'm going to need a seat adjustment anyway? Or do I buy a pattern based on hip measurement mock it and then tweak? What's the order of operations?
That's a great question!! I consider the full hip measurement first to pick the starting size. If you're waist and upper thighs/legs are smaller or larger, you can pick a bigger or smaller size for the CF/CB Inseam ... best of both worlds.. ps, I first heard about picking multiple sizes instead of blending between sizes on the same line from Ruth Collins and TDCO. You can find more information by watching my series here: ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNsN64DwwVI5Phfgbuzn07zK.html
If we cut out part of the crotch but don't add it back to the side seam, would that work well as a way to reduce the size of the waist? i have an 18" different between waist and hips/butt (and thighs only 3 inches smaller than my waist) so any help with how to adjust for that would be amazing!
For a waist to full hip difference of 18 inches, you can angle the CB seam toward the side seam, trimming off some of the excess at the waist measurement... You can also reduce the waist measurement by closing some of the waist dart intake. Here's a tutorial for this:
ua-cam.com/video/4z-VGr7hdi4/v-deo.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
I know this sounds like a stupid question but when you move the pattern over do you connect the original cutting line or the stitching line. The reason I'm asking is my original stitching line I can connect it very easily but not the original cutting line.
No stupid questions here :)) When you move the top of the pattern over, you are not connecting either cutting or stitching lines. You're sliding it over the amount you need ... then you true up the cutting edge (which will also true up the sewing line. To true up... find the middle of the section of the top portion of the pattern that's extending past the lower portion. Skim a little off the top section to the middle mark and add to the lower section to create a smooth transition. ... Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Thank you. Can you do the slide way for a full tummy too?
Here's a tutorial for a full tummy :) ua-cam.com/video/a5hAmV1FQsY/v-deo.html
Are this suitable in every methods ? Like muller or ...
I’m intrigued… What is Muller?
Hi! Could you please offer some advice on what can be done in relation to this issue for already made pants? I've heard inserting a triangular/diamond shaped fabric from the side seam from the waistband could help.
Yes! Here's a tutorial showing how to add a gusset to the inseams/crotch to create more room. ua-cam.com/video/XmGpr9Ufp2g/v-deo.html
@@JSternDesigns I checked that video out prior! Great resource. However, my tailor told me that in the case of a prominent butt, it’s best to add fabric to the hips via the triangle fabric at the side seam, rather than doing something to the crotch.
Will this help with those with prominent butt and small waist. For reference, I am 28" waist, 43" hips. :(
Yes, and I would angle the CB seam a little bit more toward the side seam to create more room inside your pants for your prominent butt & less along the waistline for your defined waistline... You can also angle the CF edge toward the side seam a little bit to help fit your defined waistline :) Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Does shifting the upper back part have any significant influence on the balance of the pant? Another question: will the grain direction be the same (that from the lower pant part)?
The grainline above the adjustment will shift toward the side seam... Reestablish the vertical grainline from below the adjustment. Keep an eye on the top of the vertical grainline after it's been reestablished. If it gets too close to the CB edge (less than 2" away is a general guideline), you will need to adjust it back a little bit. Here's a tutorial showing how to do this ua-cam.com/video/4E1kOcUfKQM/v-deo.html
@@JSternDesigns Wow, another logical puzzle... Thanks for the link! Love holding your hand and walking through all those mysteries! Very generous of you providing the info for free!
Extending the side seam out on the pants back for a prominent butt and then redrawing the side seam, do i do the same for the front side seam in order for it to match up nicely?
If you're working with the TDCO method, you will be adding to the side and inseams before cutting out a single leg muslin. You can work out the exact shape of the side seams when you start fitting. Even if you're not working with the TDCO method, I always add extra "safety" seam allowances to the side seams so I can fine-tune the fit. Hope this helps, thank you for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns ok thank you
When adjusting do we half the measurement we want to add (due to having two back pant cuts) or do we quarter it (for two front cuts and two back cuts)?.
That's a great question! Usually when you do adjustments they are "doubled" when you cut out the pattern piece on a folded piece of fabric to get a left and right leg. When you're adjusting the crotch points... the benefit of that adjustment is the whole amount of the adjustment. So if you extend the crotch point 1/2"... The left leg will get 1/2" and the right leg will get 1/2 to wrap around the leg... It's not combined or doubled like adding to a side seam. Hope that helps! Thanks for following along with me!
@@JSternDesigns thank you!
I have vertical lines across the front crotch area and have about 1/2 inches of extra fabric. I can pinch out about 1/2 inch. Does this mean I need to remove this amount from the front piece of the pattern or do I possibly need to redraw the crotch curve?
I would pinch up the excess length at the base of the crotch to see if it smooths the wrinkles. If it doesn't, they it may be that you need to change the shape of the curve. If you have loose vertical wrinkles scoop more to pull out some of the excess fabric. If you have tight horizontal wrinkles, reduce the scoop by sewing a little closer to the raw edges to relax the fabric. Let me know if this makes sense! Thanks for fitting along with me!
@@JSternDesigns so sorry guess I wasn’t thinking straight 😬. I meant to say Horizontal lines. Left to right excess fabric that I can pinch out about 1/2 inch.
I have a curvy butt so I have to extend the back crotch curve out a lot. We’re talking about 3 inches. Then I run into the leg width at the thighs being huge. I also have to lower the front. How do I do that adjustment where the legs are not so wide? I’m only 5’1.
How to adjust for a curvy butt without adding to the upper thigh starts at 8:59 ...And, here's a tutorial showing how to adjust for a titled waist. A forward tilted waist requires the front to be lowered. If you're waist is not tilted, you can just adjust the front (don't tape the legs together). Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me ua-cam.com/video/QvhocHFRPGU/v-deo.html
@@JSternDesigns I will still need to extend the crotch points out on the back. Like I said I can’t seem to blend it in to make the thighs not huge and have it match up with the front. I had read to take a dart on the back vertically on the back leg. That seems odd to me!
Is a full butt the same as a swayback?
A sway back adjustment for pants involves lengthening the CB rise to get the waistline to sit where you need it... You can do this adjustment with any shape butt. A full butt also needs more vertical length...and width. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Need adjustment for to make to go up little more in the back
Do you need more length in the back because the waist is not sitting high enough... or because it slides down when you sit?
@@JSternDesigns the waist is not sitting high enough
Thanks so much for this guide! Was exactly what I needed to redraft a yoga leggings pattern that I had that would not fit over my huge butt!
So happy this helped, thank you for sewing along with me
How does the slope of the back rise relate to a prominent vs flat butt?
Here's a tutorial for this :) ua-cam.com/video/ZTco_3LdNIY/v-deo.html
What about a prominent low butt where the curve goes below the crotch line and also requires more space at the hip line? Thanks Jenn.
You can do this adjustment for a low butt too (the crotch curve will just be lower).
What to do if thigh measures 25" when standing and 27" when sitting?
That's a great question! If you're working with non-stretch fabric, go with the 27" measurement. If you're working with stretch fabric, ... split the difference and use 26" :)
I will always watch you,
I will always love you.
Thank you for sewing along with me!
Mam yery good ida thanks
Thank you... and thanks for fitting along with me
Hi, your tutorial is brilliant- thank you! Could you tell me how i know what sort of behind I have whenlooking sideways in the mirror? I think i must have a prominent butt - i have full buttocks. Thank you!
When you're trying to figure out what shape you have... start by noticing where the fullest part of your behind is (between you waistline and crotch level. If it's closer to the waist you have a high round behind, if it's in the middle you have an average behind, If it's at or lower than crotch level you have a low behind. Then look at the shape of the curve. If you do not have a prominent curve, you have a flat butt. If you have a prominent curve, you have a prominent butt... Consider both the vertical and horizontal dimensions to identify the shape of you butt. For example you could have a low prominent butt or a high prominent butt or an average prominent butt! Hope this helps!
Thanks so much for replying. I've never gazed at the shape of my butt in the mirror before! I think it must be average as I can't tell whether the fullest part is nearer my waist or my crotch. Definitely prominent! It's a pretty even curve all around.
I'm changing my mind now and thinking maybe it's a low behind.
The shorts I made were pulling in a little nearer the crotch so I'm now looking at the pattern pieces before cutting out a second pair. Thank you SO much for the very clear guidance. Excited to be making adjustments!
I have a commercial culottes pattern. Is there a good way to check whether the butt shape will fit me? I could compare it to my adjusted shorts around the crotch? Thank you!
Can you measure your crotch length by measuring the front and back areas while sitting much like measuring the crotch depth? Sitting here I can look down on the front of my crotch , and then put my hand to the back where my butt hits the chair sitting up straight. I wonder if that would be a good way to measure the crotch "width" for someone with a prominent butt?
That's a great questions! I got my tape measure out and I measured my crotch length standing... Then I sat down and measured again. ...I got the opposite result that I thought I was going to get. My measurement actually got shorter by 3/4"... and I think the part that "shortened" was the part I was sitting on. (probably because flesh spreads when you sit). So, I think the best thing to do is to put a fit elastic around you so it's positioned at crotch level (where you curve inward front and back)... The elastic might not be parallel to the floor because your curves might not agree vertically. Then measure from the elastic in the front to back... while standing up! Let me know if this helps.
what is a low butt?
:) a butt is considered low when the fullest part is lower than your crotch level. Here's a tutorial explaining more... Thanks for fitting along with me ua-cam.com/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/v-deo.html
This has been very helpful. Thank you!
Happy to hear!! Thanks for fitting along with me