How to Route Set - Setting V3 Boulder Problems
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- This is the fourth part in our series, of route setting boulder problems in a climbing gym. The grades we cover are V0 - V6. Be sure to check back Wednesdays for the next grade! New Videos Every Wednesday!
Credits:
Video shot and edited by John Bearce and Nick Longo
Art by Marilee Bearce and Jordan Serra - Спорт
I really appreciate you putting out route setting content! Subscribed.
Thank you so much for the kind words Jacob, we intend to continue making it!
You guys are the best setting youtubers ever!
Lansky thank you so much! You’re to kind!!
in the UK, we'd call that a V2.
Still interesting- keep up the good work. I particularly like the explanations
V1 maybe ?
Thanks so much! Appreciate the feedback, it mostly got the grade for the crux move at the top as your foot is edged on about a 7mm hold. Then again we could have been climbing poorly that day! We post on Wednesdays and Fridays and look forward to having you along.
@@alexmcmullan9928 Vπ ;)
Hey John and Nick, I'd love to see your forerunning process on the underhang. Is that coming soon?
Thats a really good idea. We have not shot that yet, but likely will try on your suggestion Jacob! =)
What are those rocks from? "First add rocks"? I googled it nothing came up. Link?
Sorry! We meant to get a glam shot of them, they are hand pours from “first ave rocks” I’m not certain they are still making them, but those slopey punches are nasty!
I notice that both climbers prefer to step up on the 7mm small hold using their right foot and do a barndoor throw. Why not step up on the left foot on the bigger hold which was formerly that handhold and sit in or throw from there?
After watching I was wondering the same thing! But the right hand before the finish is not very good, which pitches your weigh heavily to the left making the step up with the right foot require great flexibility and is truly more difficult.
Noticed that some of the moves seems kind of reachy? How do you compensate that for shorter climbers? Do you often have that in mind when setting a route?
Br - Tobias from Sweden.
This is often something that comes into deep consideration during our forerunning process. Nick is a little shorter than John and John is technically under 6 ft tall although he wont admit it. SO between the two of them they are able to find compensations that allow most climbers onto the problem. Generally it is by using additional feet that only a shorter climber can access. Great question and thanks for asking it.
Thanks for your reply @@VerticalSouth. It would be cool with a video covering this topic. Maybe bring in someone who is really short, and try to set a route that fits both the tall and short one. :)
Tillbaka Till Nes-Tiden That is going on our idea board! Thanks for that suggestion
You've given a name to my pain -- SHUTDOWN START!!! A gym in my town does that a lot. I will never get a membership there because I hate their setting. That's one reason.
Setting is akin to cooking! If you don’t like the food, you generally won’t like the restaurant!