How to Route Set - Routesetting V7 Boulder Problems

This is the eighth part in our series of route setting boulder problems in a climbing gym. The climbing grades we cover are V0 - V7. Be sure to check back Wednesdays for the next grade! New Videos Every Wednesday!
Credits:
Video shot and edited by John Bearce and Nick Longo
Art by Marilee Bearce and Jordan Serra

[@ineedhelp5844]

i think this is the best routesettiwng video series I've seen so far. good job gentlemen, you've improved my routesetting a lot

[@AuxArcClimbing]

Really solid video. I feel like you guys took a great look at the feedback you got from the last series, and have sifted and applied it wonderfully. Great video. Really thoroughly enjoyed this one.

[@VerticalSouth]

Thanks for the kinds words and helping us find the voice and feel we are looking for in these videos! Hoping to get the next one down to about fifteen minutes if possible.

[@manocaio123]

watched the whole series more than once. Its great

[@TheTenThousandThings]

this one is great, all the details and the breakdown of the center of balance lines. pretty helpful way to conceptualize it. Thanks!

[@VerticalSouth]

Awesome! So happy to hear it was helpful in anyway. Thanks for the words of encouragement

[@hamishfalconer9402]

I love this series!!

[@VerticalSouth]

Thank you! We love it too!! One day we hope to do more

[@reduceyouruse]

Yo these are awesome! I’d love to see more how you pull inspiration from outside routes into your sets!

[@VerticalSouth]

Thanks so much, that is a great idea for a video. Maybe we could just talk about it and show some what we get inspiration from.

[@NickAlberto]

Very informative video. Been following the whole series + some of your other videos and it's helped greatly with my home wall. You guys take a subjective and creative process and bring out the objective points for us to see and learn. would love to see grades of different styles on different terrain! (V3 overhang/v3 slab)

[@VerticalSouth]

Awesome! We werent sure how people would feel us setting the same grades over and over, but we are glad to hear so many people are keen on it! We will definitely be shooting more.

[@costa_konstantinou_dp]

Enjoyed. Well done.

[@VerticalSouth]

Thanks very much! We know it was a lot longer so thanks for sticking it out

[@willstokes9903]

you are awesome! just subscribed and loving it! getting back into climbing and just pushing for v7

[@VerticalSouth]

Same here Will! We have eeked out a few but are far from consistent. Happy to have you along with us!

[@vMoppyMedia]

Really great and educational videos. Earned my sub!

[@VerticalSouth]

That means so much to hear! Thanks so much for the kind words and we will keep them coming!

[@tracypewthatswho1362]

These videos are rad, do more!

[@VerticalSouth]

More are on the way don’t you worry!

[@kaducc1]

Great content!

[@VerticalSouth]

Thanks so much for the kind words kadu!

[@ignacio_cifuentes_m]

Love this video

[@VerticalSouth]

Thank you for the kind words Ignacio!

[@lizardmanbebo]

Love the series and the maker fair shirt as well.

[@VerticalSouth]

Thanks so much! I love the shirt and the maker movement! We are starting a series on making your own holds out of wood too. Go figure!

[@lizardmanbebo]

@@VerticalSouth I made a bunch of very basic holds for my wall, i'm fairly new to climbing and was looking for ways to spice up my wall which is how I found you guys.

[@VerticalSouth]

Happy to have you with us! We are launching a wooden hold making video tomorrow actually. Let us know if there is any specific content you’d like to see!

[@lizardmanbebo]

@@VerticalSouth I would be love a video how to force different moves on a wall, im using my wall (12 foot tall) to have people over and climb. And would love to be able to force them into more interesting moves.

[@jezzadee87]

Best in the series - really informative, tying together your thought processes on hold placement, CoG and movement. Do you reckon setting harder problems make you give more conscious consideration to these issues? Whereas you can just feel your way through setting easier problems?

[@VerticalSouth]

Absolutely, the easier grades are able to be set much quicker and smoother with just instinct. As the grades get higher, the climbers are more creative and stronger so you have to be in the lookout for breaks all the tine

[@NormanBEnz-dt3hr]

is it normal for setters to set problems at their projecting grade, or is this just for UA-cam?

[@VerticalSouth]

Absolutely, most setters will actually set harder than their projecting grade. It is hard to do but with careful consideration can be done well!

[@Adambe3]

Best how to set a problem yet. Great job y’all. I didn’t like how you corrected yourself about wearing ladders though. If someone wants to they should be able to. #instagram

[@VerticalSouth]

Your too kind Adam! Glad you liked this one so much. This will likely be the format we move forward with.

[@ignacio_cifuentes_m]

V 8 ?

[@VerticalSouth]

We actually tried a v8 recently but didnt give ourselves enough time before we had to open the gym! There is some footage on the cutting room floor of it.

[@Snowhead9408]

Can break the boulder if arete is in

[@VerticalSouth]

The arete is off on this bad boy, but good eye!