Routesetting Practice - How to Routeset V3 Boulders on Slab
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2020
- Another deeper dive into the most famous of indoor grades, the V3. We are revisiting some of our routesetting grades and trying to put boulders on different pitches that you have not seen before. Let us know in the comments below, what info you want to hear about, what did you like? What did we miss? We are excited to grow this channel with you!
Credits:
Video shot and edited by John Bearce and Nick Longo
Art by Marilee Bearce and Jordan Serra - Навчання та стиль
Great video amigos
Really nice to hear your interest in designing fun/natural difficulty, rather than frustrating diffuculty. Some proplems feel like the difficultry was set by an algorithm rather than a real perosn.
We strive for the natural feel! I totally know what you mean about a frustrating difficulty, as if the setter intended to get under your skin.
Cool as always - I do like the longer format - thx!
So happy to hear it! This is likely the format we will move on with.
As someone who has done a decent amount of setting but doesn't do it full time, I think you guys are really starting to nail down a more educational level of detail. Loved the discussion of planning out the line using the negative space, and some of the talk on why you went with certain holds. I think 2 things that are probably really worth touching on at some point down the line for the more beginner setters are hold selection and common beginner pitfalls/tendencies. I know personally when I would help newer setters at the gym, just picking what holds to even start with could sometimes overwhelm them and there were several beginner pitfalls that I saw people fall into repeatedly such as relying too heavily on reach as a way of making things more/less difficult and neglecting feet when setting. I think you've started to indirectly hit on a few of those but just figured I'd throw those out there as I know many beginners I've worked with have had issues with those
That is an awesome suggestion, a beginners guide to setting series could be awesome. This is going on our video idea list
Thanks so much for watching and your suggestion
@@VerticalSouth seconded, sounds like a great idea
Really solid video. Thoroughly enjoyed the technical discussion here. The talk on the cross move and the feet was solid and I would love to see more move specific discussion in the future. I also noticed that you had a down climb jug in place before you began setting but are there any safety considerations you have for your different walls? I love climbing slab, but it's got the most potential for me to injure myself climbing so if it's not protected, I'm probably not going to climb it. I'd rather hit slab on top rope at that point.
Definitely. A big idea is fall hazards on slab, having large holds down low that a climber may hit on their way down. We generally try to keep the holds small on our slab wall. Each gym is unique and each wall has its own considerations. We will be putting out a head setters video here in the future, still have to script it up and make sure we include what people want to know!
Would love to see one of these about steep V3’s!
We can make that happen! It may be awhile before we get back to the overhang, but I’ll put it on the list!
where are you from?
We are from the southern half of the US!
Hola John it’s me Aiden
What’s up aiden! Thanks for checking out the videos
Vertical South no problem
John this time is my last time at the gym 😭😭😭😭
But unfortunately, Makita makes poor batteries. Check out festool for top of the line drills
Thanks for the tip! We’ve personally never had any issue with our batteries but if we need to switch we may look that way.
im from israel
That’s awesome! So happy to know we have a viewer from so far away! Thanks for watching and climbing with us