I am an older woman and until I found this video, I was going to buy my daughter a new dryer! I ordered the kit and a new heating element and followed your instructions to the letter and now my daughter's dryer is working better than new at a fraction of the cost! And my daughter and I fixed it ourselves! Thanks so much for posting your repair videos, they are great!
wanted to say THANK YOU for showing me this. I ended up having a burnt coil that broke. I replaced the thermostat, but had a devil of a time getting the replacement screw in as it looked different than yours and the two holes didn't seem to be threaded. Finally got the threads cut using the included sheet metal screws and secured that thermostat. I replaced the upper temp cutoff easily enough, and the thermal fuse, but still no heat. I finally got the coil out and saw the burnt coil and broken coil wire. TADA! Got the replacement coil in today and sure enough, now I have heat. Wife is happy so I am happy. Thank you for the parts, and for the excellent videos on how to install them!
I wanted to take a minute and say THANK YOU so much for this video!! I had this problem happen to my dryer this week and without this video I would have been totally lost on how to fix it. I watched this and followed it step by step and now my dryer is running again with better heat than it's ever had. THANK YOU!!!
Thank you. It is so nice to see a real person doing the repair and not an actor. The step by step instructions help me to repair my dryier. Now my wife has a gift for me! ;)
I can't thank you enough for posting this. I ordered the parts and when I saw I was going to have to do the wiring modification, the diagram on the sheet of paper that came with the parts did absolutely nothing for me. Your video was extremely helpful. Dryer is working now.
Thanks so much. We were stuck, because our dryer had more wires than our new part would allow. Thanks for showing us exactly which wires needed to be crimped.
Hi, Steve. I just want to thank you for this video. You just saved me the price of a new dryer. Your instructions are clear, easy to follow, and spot on! If you were here right now I'd buy you a six pack. :-)
Bingo!!! I'm pretty handy with a shovel, and I do have a "PhD," (post hole digger), but when I got home with this replacement part for our Kitchen Aid dryer my eyes totally glazed over. Thankfully, the replacement part is exactly the same as you used in this video, and I believe the original is also the same configuration. Thank you, thank you...a thousand times "thank you!" ;-)
Thank you! My dryer would spin but not get hot. I followed your instructions to the T and it works better than ever. I'll get some more use out of it before having to buy a new one. Much appreciated.
Just bought this kit along with a new heating element as a coil was clearly broken on our 12 year old dryer. Watched this video and had it fixed in 20 minutes. Let there be heat! Thanks Parts Select you guys rock! I will definitely come to you first any time something goes on the fritz. You saved us a fortune from having to purchase a new dryer.
YOU LITERALLY SAVED MY LIFE!!! I couldn’t find a video where it showed me how to put together that extra wire and I thought I was screwed! Thanks a million!
Continuity test was good on both thermal fuse and heating coil. Purchased the thermal cu toff kit and it was fixed, Steves video was excellent because it was easy to follow along with. THANKS STEVE!
Nice Video. Thanks. I like the special effect of high lighting the screws. The person softly playing acoustic guitar behind you was a nice touch too. Very nice presentation all around.
Thank you very much for your very detailed instructions. I have never worked on a dryer and your directions made short work of this job and now my Wirlpool dryer works just like it did when it was new. Thanks again!!
Just want to say thank you for your video was going to buy a brand-new dryer. That was until I found your video and decided to order the kit and change it out myself. Everything is working like brand new!!! Needless to say I'm not a handy man at all!! Thank you for saving 600 Plus!!!
What a Fantastic video, you helped me through every step and I am extremely grateful that not only did I get the parts from your company but your company and you provide an excellent instructional video to do the job myself! Sincerely the Bradley’s
Thank you for this video.You took a task that was just a little confusing when I was following the not so detailed instructions that came with my thermostat and made it very easy to understand.But,my dryer still is not heating.I had the heating element tested before I did anything else and it was good.Besides the fact that my crimping skills are less than desirable,what else could it be?
Thanks for a very good video that allowed me to repair the dryer by myself for a very small cost. If I might provide some feedback: If would have been helpful to stress at minute 4:04 to cut the SMALLER connector, not the large one.
You're welcome. LOL, the easier question would be what HAVEN'T I replaced! I've replaced (all with help from you) the high-limit thermo, the cycling thermo, the heating element, and the thermal fuse. Cleaned all lint from the lint tray and from the inside of the dryer. I'm now at a loss.
i knew i could do it, just needed some clarification. just ordered a new thermal cut off kit for 7$. beats the heck out of $400 for a new used dryer. thanks a lot man. you should do a set of these for the puch maxi moped.
Hi I had to replace the heating element (btw thanks for that video too) before I replaced the cut off kit. And on the old heating element it has 3 screw holes (the old thermostat used one tab and one screw) for the thermostat. The new heating element only has 2. Screw holes In the same spot as yours on the video. But my new thermostat sits sideways, If I use the 2 screw holes. If I use the tab it sits correctly like your thermostat but there's no Screw holes on the other side. Does it matter if it sits sideways? Or or sit it correctly like yours and ONLY use the tab?
The mod to the jumper wire tip is what I needed also. However, I can't get the old thermostat disconnected from the element terminal. I'm afraid I'm going to break it trying to get it off.
Hi Steve. Your videos are all great and easy to follow. However, I've changed the heating element, thermostat and thermal fuse and still no heat! :( It comes on and turns/cycles through just fine, but blows cold air. Its a Whirpool WED 5540SQ0. Thanks!
Have A Kenmore electric dryer TESTED thermostats and fuses for continuity tested ok but dryer runs with heat for 10 minutes or so AND shuts off vent is clear as well
My small wire is white with a black stripe instead of orange. Does it make a difference? It was hooked up exactly the same as yours prior to uninstalling it.
Hi Steve, Thanks for your video. I got stuck with this kit. My Maytag dryer only has 2 wires available connected to the thermostat terminals. How can I modify to use the jump wire? Thank you so much in advance for your help in this matter. Thank you, Steve
I have a similar whirlpool, but mine has four wires. Two wires to heating element and two going to the thermostat. Is this correct or has it been modified? Do I still need a wire going from thermostat to heating element? The thermo fuse has been bypassed by previous owner and I'm trying to fix that. I feel something is not correct. Thanks for the video and any help you can give me!
Thanks for this. The directions were less than stellar and they didn't send the right connection terminal for the smaller wire so I had to go and buy a package. But after that, everything worked perfect. Thanks again.
I'm hoping you might be able to direct me in the right direction here. The dryer starts fine, spins, goes through the cycle, no heat though. I have replaced the following high limit fuse, thermal fuse, thermal cut off (entire kit, element + fuse/thermostat) and I still don't have heat. I was on the fence on replacing things since all of those pieces (the originals) seemed to work ok when using the multimeter. Sure enough, after replacing I am still getting cold air. Thoughts?
Hello Matilda! Thank you so very much for your wonderful feedback. It's so appreciated. It's a great feeling that comes with successfully completing a repair, isn't it? Glad you found the video helpful, and good job on the repair! Take care.
It was informative.... just 2 things .. 1. He didn't show testing it ... 2. He was using a not so good crimper... I recommend a double crimper with a long handle... a loose connection here can definitely cause a fire ....
Does it matter which terminal is which on the thermostat? I installed one this weekend and both terminals were the same on the replacement. No labeling which is which. Took a swing at it, seems to be working but I'd like to make sure it doesn't matter, which is which.
where exactly did you connect the orange wire? once you replaced the original thermostat you have only 4 connections. 2 coming from the new thermostat and 2 coming from the heating element, so there is not conection for the orange wire...unless you put part of the original assembly on the new thermostat..i am sorry but it can of confusing for me.. thanks
Thank you for this. The other videos I have watched did not include instructions for attaching the jumper wire. This is what I was looking for. I had it right, just needed to be sure.
My Whirlpool TEDX640PQ0 has continuity everywhere it should including the timer. I replaced the thermal cut off as per video. The vent & hose is thoroughly clean. The dryer spins but doesn't heat. Is the problem likely the timer?
I have an older Kenmore electric Soft Dry heavy duty dryer, looks to be from the 80's or early 90's.. I can't find any serial numbers or model numbers. Runs strong still but the problem is the heating element on time setting starts glowing runs to a temp of around 150 to 160 then shuts down cools to to 116 or so then kicks back on and starts to climb back up. This is the cycle it does, doesn't seem obviously right. What could be the problem? I took it apart and cleaned everything out of the system and duct work. Unlike this one on the video, the lower cut off thermostat has the two prong set up red white and solid red wires and the heating element lower connection is the older two solid red wire system..
I guess I didn't pay close enough attention to the modification to the jumper wire. I assumed the terminals on both ends of the wire were the same size and I mistakenly cut off the large terminal instead of the small terminal so then the jumper wire would not fit onto the heater pin. To fix this I had to buy a repair kit 279457 at a local appliance parts shop so I could splice a wire to the jumper with the larger 5/16 in quick disconnect terminal. Live and learn.
I replace all the fuses and the heating element but my dryer gets really hot so my thermal cut off keeps burning do you know what my problem may be? I have a kenmore series 80
What size connector do I need for the "large size" terminal? The smaller one is a .250, but I can't find something to fit the larger one. It seems like it's 5/16", but I can't find any in that size anywhere.
My Dryer runs and gets hot, but after about 15 minutes it just stops. I can restart it after it cools? any suggestions.it's about 15 years old. Inglis by whirlpool. I did find the model on your parts list website. I just don't know what part to start with? Thanks for any sugestions.
we watched ur video and replaced the fuse but to no avail, the power comes on on the dryer but the start button wont work, do you have any ideas that would help us diagose the problem
I am a retired appliance parts and HVAC sales part counter man. I was just wondering I know you can get that limit sep. I guess selling it this way is money saving.
What if there is no orange wire on the harness of wires the dryer as mine is? It only has 2 red wires(larger gage). One coming out of the port BR of vent pipe. The other drops from the top down the center. Now what???
Hi again sir, I have a problem with my dryer. After the technician repair my dryer, because wasn't heating, now when we select any option like auto-sense or timed heat the dryer never shut off by itself. in auto-sense never move from the selected option and timed heat is selected like 30min for example, moves until cool down option and never turns off. stays blowing cool air until I turn off. Do you know what do i need to replace? And can tell me where in the dryer? i don't have any experience.
Is it possible to just replace the cutoff up top and replace the lower thermostat with part 3977767 (as evidenced in the partselect video about replacing the high limit thermostat)? I’d rather avoid making these modifications (stripping wires and such) if I can. Thanks!
I need to first diagnose the reason why my dryer no longer heats up. How do I diagnose whether it is the heating coil/element, the thermostat, the sensor, etc... I read something about running a test where you bypass the thermostat to see if the heating element starts working. If this happens then it is the thermostat that needs to be replaced. Problem~ I need a video or pics to help me with this. I have a Whirlpool Senseon dryer model # GEW9868KL3
What type of crimper tool is that? I have a crimper tool for insulated terminal ends but I can't seem to find one for those type of ends. Can you please let me know the exact name of that crimper tool? Thank you very much.
Hmm. I'll look again, and thank you so much for your time, but if I recall, in this video the smaller diameter orange wire DOES appear. On my Kitchenaid dryer, there is no smaller diameter orange wire - just the two red wires. But let me watch the video again, in case I missed something (which is entirely possible!). ;-)
What do I do if I absolutely have no orange wire? There were two wires hooked on to it when I took the old part out that is all the wires I have what do I do?
Thanks for the question. The wire may be a different color on other similar models. I would follow the instructions and attach the jumper wire to the lower wire on the thermal cut off exactly as shown in the video. Good luck with your repair!
I have a whirlpool dryer. I notice that is was overheating and would turn off. i order the fuse and the one underneath the fuse with the 4 prongs also the Thermal Cut off thermostat timer and the one above as well. I check continuity and omhs on all 4 everyone was meter well. But that didn't fix my problem no sir, the heating element stop heating, I order one replaced my old one. Bam! still no heat! moved up to my setting and checked the dial housing and cleaned it up a little since it tested well. it clicks it moves. all I have is air. Help please!
A fuse is a fuse. They are supposed to blow when there is a problem. In a dryer this is heat related. If you are overheating, heat is not escaping (blocked vent or lint build up inside dryer). OR heating element not turning off when supposed to (bad thermostat ). Sometimes fuses blow for no reason, but usually there is one and if you don’t correct it you will keep blowing fuses.
Thanks Steve, I replaced the heating element, and the thermostat that connects to the heating element. The heating element work and then stopped working. Could it be if the wires to the heating element are bad?
On my dryer, I notice that one of the wires connecting to the upper thermostat element is completely charred to the point of being disconnected completely. I see the thermostat kit online, but could you help me identify the wire needed for that connector and or give any additional advice?
@@edwardfantasia3246 I ended up buying the original style Hi-Limit thermostat shown in the link below. It's an original whirlpool part with the "FSP" stamp. As you probably know there is a Hi-Limit thermostat and a hi-limit fuse. When you search the fuse, they only offer a kit that replaces both the fuse and the thermostat. And the thermostat that comes with the kit is the one shown in the video. The kit was kind of expensive, and due to my uncertainty about the installation, I opted to just replace the thermostat with the original part. Thus, I'm now operating the dryer with the original fuse still in service...gulp. I'm just a guy trying to fix my broken dryer. I'm not an appliance repair guy. Had some difficulty finding info on the web that explained how dryers work. Lot of video's explaining how to replace a part or what part to replace vs a variety of symptoms. But not much on how dryers work. What follows is the little I was able to piece together: The high limit thermostat and fuse are protective devices that in a perfect world would never be called upon to operate. Their set-points are 250 deg F and 309 deg F respectively. The normal day to day regulation of the dryer temperature is accomplished with the cycling thermostat set at 150 deg F. So, if the cycling thermostat fails to open, the hi-limit thermostat should open at 250 deg F. If the hi limit thermostat fails to open, then the hi-limit fuse would open at 309 deg F. All three of these devices de-energize the heating element. There's a fourth device, a fuse, that de-energizes both the motor and the heating element but I don't know its set-point. The consequence of a dryer fire are so severe that the manufacturers equipped their dryers with multiple levels of protection. In my case, the original heating element failed. So I replaced with a cheap aftermarket heating element which failed after about 6 weeks service. So, next time around I bought/installed a whirlpool "FSP" heating element. After installed, I ran and could see that the element would cycle. That is, be energized for a few minutes during which it would glow red hot. Then, de-energize for a few minutes during which the red hot glow would diminish to darkness. This proved to me that the cycling thermostat was operating properly. Don't know why my heating elements failed. Conjecture: The original just died of old age and the cheap aftermarket was defective, but that seems unlikely. I also found myself wondering if I kinked the flex hose between the dryer and the house vent piping. After reading about dryer fires, I now find myself keeping an eye on the dryer when in use. www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-3977767-Thermostat/dp/B00DM8KR1E/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr_3k_Oqg5QIVjMDACh1kyg6cEAAYASAAEgIBFfD_BwE&hvadid=174245280143&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029746&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6529563922426429373&hvtargid=kwd-34152737924&hydadcr=24657_9648987&keywords=thermostat+3977767&qid=1571230838&sr=8-5
The electrical circuit for the heater passes through contacts in the timer and the motor switch as well. The timer contacts can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter, but the motor switch contacts would require a live voltage test.
I have a model like with auto sense feature. ||Any idea if it really has the auto sense feature? I can put a dry shirt in and it doesn't sense at all that it is dry and heats up.
I am an older woman and until I found this video, I was going to buy my daughter a new dryer! I ordered the kit and a new heating element and followed your instructions to the letter and now my daughter's dryer is working better than new at a fraction of the cost! And my daughter and I fixed it ourselves! Thanks so much for posting your repair videos, they are great!
This guy does the best tutorials on the web. Saved me buying a new dryer.
11 years later and this video is STILL very much appreciated!!!! Thank you 🙏🏽
wanted to say THANK YOU for showing me this. I ended up having a burnt coil that broke. I replaced the thermostat, but had a devil of a time getting the replacement screw in as it looked different than yours and the two holes didn't seem to be threaded. Finally got the threads cut using the included sheet metal screws and secured that thermostat. I replaced the upper temp cutoff easily enough, and the thermal fuse, but still no heat. I finally got the coil out and saw the burnt coil and broken coil wire. TADA! Got the replacement coil in today and sure enough, now I have heat. Wife is happy so I am happy.
Thank you for the parts, and for the excellent videos on how to install them!
I wanted to take a minute and say THANK YOU so much for this video!! I had this problem happen to my dryer this week and without this video I would have been totally lost on how to fix it. I watched this and followed it step by step and now my dryer is running again with better heat than it's ever had. THANK YOU!!!
Thank you. It is so nice to see a real person doing the repair and not an actor.
The step by step instructions help me to repair my dryier. Now my wife has a gift for me! ;)
I can't thank you enough for posting this. I ordered the parts and when I saw I was going to have to do the wiring modification, the diagram on the sheet of paper that came with the parts did absolutely nothing for me. Your video was extremely helpful. Dryer is working now.
If a picture is worth thousands words then a video is worth a million. Thank you for a clear easy to follow step by step presentation.
You're very welcome! Glad it was able to help you out!
Thanks so much. We were stuck, because our dryer had more wires than our new part would allow. Thanks for showing us exactly which wires needed to be crimped.
Hi, Steve. I just want to thank you for this video. You just saved me the price of a new dryer. Your instructions are clear, easy to follow, and spot on! If you were here right now I'd buy you a six pack. :-)
Bingo!!! I'm pretty handy with a shovel, and I do have a "PhD," (post hole digger), but when I got home with this replacement part for our Kitchen Aid dryer my eyes totally glazed over. Thankfully, the replacement part is exactly the same as you used in this video, and I believe the original is also the same configuration. Thank you, thank you...a thousand times "thank you!" ;-)
Thank you for including what to do with the orange wire. This was the only video I found that showed me what to do with it.
Thank you! My dryer would spin but not get hot. I followed your instructions to the T and it works better than ever. I'll get some more use out of it before having to buy a new one. Much appreciated.
Helped me TREMENDOUSLY!!! SAVED 59.99
Worked like a charm, your video clarified and help to visualize the written instructions that came with the kit. Appreciate the support.
Thank you! I can't even tell you how amazing these videos are and how simple this fix was. Again, thanks.
Just bought this kit along with a new heating element as a coil was clearly broken on our 12 year old dryer. Watched this video and had it fixed in 20 minutes. Let there be heat! Thanks Parts Select you guys rock! I will definitely come to you first any time something goes on the fritz. You saved us a fortune from having to purchase a new dryer.
Old video but thank you so much. I would’ve never figured it out from the instructions that came with my part without this video
YOU LITERALLY SAVED MY LIFE!!! I couldn’t find a video where it showed me how to put together that extra wire and I thought I was screwed! Thanks a million!
Continuity test was good on both thermal fuse and heating coil. Purchased the thermal cu toff kit and
it was fixed, Steves video was excellent because it was easy to follow along with. THANKS STEVE!
Nice Video. Thanks. I like the special effect of high lighting the screws. The person softly playing acoustic guitar behind you was a nice touch too. Very nice presentation all around.
Thank you very much for your very detailed instructions. I have never worked on a dryer and your directions made short work of this job and now my Wirlpool dryer works just like it did when it was new. Thanks again!!
Just want to say thank you for your video was going to buy a brand-new dryer. That was until I found your video and decided to order the kit and change it out myself. Everything is working like brand new!!! Needless to say I'm not a handy man at all!! Thank you for saving 600 Plus!!!
We're happy to help and will be here to help again next time you need to order a part and make a repair!
Thank you so much...just finish fixing my dryer it wasn't heating your video help me a lot now is working perfect so happy
What a Fantastic video, you helped me through every step and I am extremely grateful that not only did I get the parts from your company but your company and you provide an excellent instructional video to do the job myself! Sincerely the Bradley’s
Thank you for this video.You took a task that was just a little confusing when I was following the not so detailed instructions that came with my thermostat and made it very easy to understand.But,my dryer still is not heating.I had the heating element tested before I did anything else and it was good.Besides the fact that my crimping skills are less than desirable,what else could it be?
Thanks for the great video. Would never have been able to figure out what to do with the third wire without this video!
Thank you soooo much for your informative video...it helped me to fix my dryer without the cost of a specialist!!!
Yes, I checked and the breaker switches are all operational and in the correct position. We don't have fuses.
Thanks for a very good video that allowed me to repair the dryer by myself for a very small cost. If I might provide some feedback: If would have been helpful to stress at minute 4:04 to cut the SMALLER connector, not the large one.
+Queen Kong (aka Cecilia Gomez) good tip. Than you.
+PartSelect ...Yup. I did the same thing. Still does not heat...so must be heating element itself...
PartSelect I'm xander
You're welcome. LOL, the easier question would be what HAVEN'T I replaced! I've replaced (all with help from you) the high-limit thermo, the cycling thermo, the heating element, and the thermal fuse. Cleaned all lint from the lint tray and from the inside of the dryer. I'm now at a loss.
Thank you so much! I would have never figured out to cut the wires on the thermostat without this video!
Thank you. Your dryer was far cleaner than mine. 🙂 Magnetic nutdrivers help too.
i knew i could do it, just needed some clarification. just ordered a new thermal cut off kit for 7$. beats the heck out of $400 for a new used dryer. thanks a lot man. you should do a set of these for the puch maxi moped.
can you do a video on how to replace the wires that connect to the thermal fuse for maytag centennial dryer pls?
Love the background music ;-) but seriously. Kinda freaked out whem i got the kit in. Then found thia video.Thank you!!!
Hi I had to replace the heating element (btw thanks for that video too) before I replaced the cut off kit. And on the old heating element it has 3 screw holes (the old thermostat used one tab and one screw) for the thermostat. The new heating element only has 2. Screw holes In the same spot as yours on the video. But my new thermostat sits sideways, If I use the 2 screw holes. If I use the tab it sits correctly like your thermostat but there's no Screw holes on the other side. Does it matter if it sits sideways? Or or sit it correctly like yours and ONLY use the tab?
A+ so easy to follow. Part worked great. I got lucky and didn't even have to crimp the jumper in.
The mod to the jumper wire tip is what I needed also. However, I can't get the old thermostat disconnected from the element terminal. I'm afraid I'm going to break it trying to get it off.
Outstanding, very clear video! I'm sure you've helped out many people...thanks!
My dryer does not have that extra jumper wire. Thank you for clearing that up. I don't need that jumper wire.
Hi Steve. Your videos are all great and easy to follow. However, I've changed the heating element, thermostat and thermal fuse and still no heat! :( It comes on and turns/cycles through just fine, but blows cold air. Its a Whirpool WED 5540SQ0. Thanks!
Have A Kenmore electric dryer TESTED thermostats and fuses for continuity tested ok but dryer runs with heat for 10 minutes or so AND shuts off vent is clear as well
My small wire is white with a black stripe instead of orange. Does it make a difference? It was hooked up exactly the same as yours prior to uninstalling it.
Excellent. Now I understand the jumper wire attachment process. Thank you.
Hi Steve, Thanks for your video. I got stuck with this kit. My Maytag dryer only has 2 wires available connected to the thermostat terminals. How can I modify to use the jump wire? Thank you so much in advance for your help in this matter. Thank you, Steve
I have a similar whirlpool, but mine has four wires. Two wires to heating element and two going to the thermostat. Is this correct or has it been modified? Do I still need a wire going from thermostat to heating element? The thermo fuse has been bypassed by previous owner and I'm trying to fix that. I feel something is not correct. Thanks for the video and any help you can give me!
Thanks for this. The directions were less than stellar and they didn't send the right connection terminal for the smaller wire so I had to go and buy a package. But after that, everything worked perfect. Thanks again.
Easton Livingston Glad everything worked out well with your repair!
thank you for posting this!!! it was easy to follow and my once-broken dryer is drying again!
Hi can you tell me if i ordered a kit and it came with the exact part..do i need to use jumper cable if my wires all went back to same place ?
would a brand new 30yo whirlpool gas dryer that is still in the box be ok? It was keep in a basement and never opened ?
Great video was very helpful. My issue was with the 2 thermostats on the heating element housing. Thank you!
I'm hoping you might be able to direct me in the right direction here. The dryer starts fine, spins, goes through the cycle, no heat though. I have replaced the following high limit fuse, thermal fuse, thermal cut off (entire kit, element + fuse/thermostat) and I still don't have heat. I was on the fence on replacing things since all of those pieces (the originals) seemed to work ok when using the multimeter. Sure enough, after replacing I am still getting cold air. Thoughts?
Those white plastic insulator pins on connectors is there a way to remove them or just pull harder.. myne are too tough
Thank you for sharing these videos. ❤ They have been very helpful!
You solved my problem. Thank you very much for publishing the video. You're the man!
Nice video but why not just sell the replacement 250f limit instead of jumping through hoops with a cheap one size fits all kit?
Hello Matilda!
Thank you so very much for your wonderful feedback. It's so appreciated. It's a great feeling that comes with successfully completing a repair, isn't it?
Glad you found the video helpful, and good job on the repair! Take care.
can you point me to a video that shows installation of the same part on a dryer where there is no orange wire???
It was informative.... just 2 things .. 1. He didn't show testing it ... 2. He was using a not so good crimper... I recommend a double crimper with a long handle... a loose connection here can definitely cause a fire ....
Does it matter which terminal is which on the thermostat? I installed one this weekend and both terminals were the same on the replacement. No labeling which is which. Took a swing at it, seems to be working but I'd like to make sure it doesn't matter, which is which.
where exactly did you connect the orange wire? once you replaced the original thermostat you have only 4 connections.
2 coming from the new thermostat and 2 coming from the heating element, so there is not conection for the orange wire...unless you put part of the original assembly on the new thermostat..i am sorry but it can of confusing for me..
thanks
ua-cam.com/video/_fjNHYcPH5E/v-deo.html
Does it matter how the wires go back on the thermostat?
Thank you for this. The other videos I have watched did not include instructions for attaching the jumper wire. This is what I was looking for. I had it right, just needed to be sure.
UniquelyEnigmatic Nice work! Glad we could help you with your repair!
My Whirlpool TEDX640PQ0 has continuity everywhere it should including the timer. I replaced the thermal cut off as per video. The vent & hose is thoroughly clean. The dryer spins but doesn't heat. Is the problem likely the timer?
Does it matter which wire goes where? Negative and positive or something like that
Thermal fuse keeps blowing on mine.why?
I've noticed that it doesnt do the cool down on the timer. Can that be the issue?
I have an older Kenmore electric Soft Dry heavy duty dryer, looks to be from the 80's or early 90's..
I can't find any serial numbers or model numbers.
Runs strong still but the problem is the heating element on time setting starts glowing runs to a temp of around 150 to 160 then shuts down cools to to 116 or so then kicks back on and starts to climb back up.
This is the cycle it does, doesn't seem obviously right.
What could be the problem?
I took it apart and cleaned everything out of the system and duct work.
Unlike this one on the video, the lower cut off thermostat has the two prong set up red white and solid red wires and the heating element lower connection is the older two solid red wire system..
I guess I didn't pay close enough attention to the modification to the jumper wire. I assumed the terminals on both ends of the wire were the same size and I mistakenly cut off the large terminal instead of the small terminal so then the jumper wire would not fit onto the heater pin. To fix this I had to buy a repair kit 279457 at a local appliance parts shop so I could splice a wire to the jumper with the larger 5/16 in quick disconnect terminal. Live and learn.
Thank-you! :) this help a lot! My husband & I are going to order that part for our dryer!
Does it matter if I use any brand of thermal fuse? Mine have 4 connectors 2 across 2 horizontal attached to the blower fan of a Frigidaire dryer.
I replace all the fuses and the heating element but my dryer gets really hot so my thermal cut off keeps burning do you know what my problem may be? I have a kenmore series 80
Thanks for the video! It was so helpful and we now have our dryer back!
I ordered this kit from you guys and did not get the jumper wire.
What size connector do I need for the "large size" terminal? The smaller one is a .250, but I can't find something to fit the larger one. It seems like it's 5/16", but I can't find any in that size anywhere.
My Dryer runs and gets hot, but after about 15 minutes it just stops.
I can restart it after it cools? any suggestions.it's about 15 years old.
Inglis by whirlpool. I did find the model on your parts list website. I just don't know what part to start with? Thanks for any sugestions.
we watched ur video and replaced the fuse but to no avail, the power comes on on the dryer but the start button wont work, do you have any ideas that would help us diagose the problem
I am a retired appliance parts and HVAC sales part counter man. I was just wondering I know you can get that limit sep. I guess selling it this way is money saving.
What if there is no orange wire on the harness of wires the dryer as mine is? It only has 2 red wires(larger gage). One coming out of the port BR of vent pipe. The other drops from the top down the center. Now what???
Hi again sir, I have a problem with my dryer. After the technician repair my dryer, because wasn't heating, now when we select any option like auto-sense or timed heat the dryer never shut off by itself. in auto-sense never move from the selected option and timed heat is selected like 30min for example, moves until cool down option and never turns off. stays blowing cool air until I turn off. Do you know what do i need to replace? And can tell me where in the dryer? i don't have any experience.
Is it possible to just replace the cutoff up top and replace the lower thermostat with part 3977767 (as evidenced in the partselect video about replacing the high limit thermostat)? I’d rather avoid making these modifications (stripping wires and such) if I can. Thanks!
I need to first diagnose the reason why my dryer no longer heats up. How do I diagnose whether it is the heating coil/element, the thermostat, the sensor, etc... I read something about running a test where you bypass the thermostat to see if the heating element starts working. If this happens then it is the thermostat that needs to be replaced. Problem~ I need a video or pics to help me with this. I have a Whirlpool Senseon dryer model # GEW9868KL3
What type of crimper tool is that? I have a crimper tool for insulated terminal ends but I can't seem to find one for those type of ends. Can you please let me know the exact name of that crimper tool? Thank you very much.
Thank you Steve for your outstanding and very valuable presentation.
Hmm. I'll look again, and thank you so much for your time, but if I recall, in this video the smaller diameter orange wire DOES appear. On my Kitchenaid dryer, there is no smaller diameter orange wire - just the two red wires. But let me watch the video again, in case I missed something (which is entirely possible!). ;-)
Great video Steve.😀
he does the best job on line
What do I do if I absolutely have no orange wire? There were two wires hooked on to it when I took the old part out that is all the wires I have what do I do?
Thanks for the question. The wire may be a different color on other similar models. I would follow the instructions and attach the jumper wire to the lower wire on the thermal cut off exactly as shown in the video. Good luck with your repair!
Push on button goes off in about 15 secs Can do this all day There is heat ??
i push button and heat aging ,i need to change the parts?
I have a whirlpool dryer. I notice that is was overheating and would turn off. i order the fuse and the one underneath the fuse with the 4 prongs also the Thermal Cut off thermostat timer and the one above as well. I check continuity and omhs on all 4 everyone was meter well. But that didn't fix my problem no sir, the heating element stop heating, I order one replaced my old one. Bam! still no heat! moved up to my setting and checked the dial housing and cleaned it up a little since it tested well. it clicks it moves. all I have is air. Help please!
the best vedeo on youtube
My dryer has only one part busted, do i have to change both parts ?
The thermal cut-off on our dryer went bad, the thermostat is OK. Is it necessary to replace the thermostat?
A fuse is a fuse. They are supposed to blow when there is a problem. In a dryer this is heat related. If you are overheating, heat is not escaping (blocked vent or lint build up inside dryer). OR heating element not turning off when supposed to (bad thermostat ). Sometimes fuses blow for no reason, but usually there is one and if you don’t correct it you will keep blowing fuses.
Thanks Steve, I replaced the heating element, and the thermostat that connects to the heating element. The heating element work and then stopped working. Could it be if the wires to the heating element are bad?
i TOO had problems thanks for detailed instructions!!!
On my dryer, I notice that one of the wires connecting to the upper thermostat element is completely charred to the point of being disconnected completely. I see the thermostat kit online, but could you help me identify the wire needed for that connector and or give any additional advice?
What model number do you have?
Thank you so much for this tutorial!
at 4:23 my dryer does not have the third wire. Do I then just connect the jumper from the heat element to the thermostat? No modification required?
Hi my dryer does not have third wire either
What did you do?
@@edwardfantasia3246 I ended up buying the original style Hi-Limit thermostat shown in the link below. It's an original whirlpool part with the "FSP" stamp.
As you probably know there is a Hi-Limit thermostat and a hi-limit fuse. When you search the fuse, they only offer a kit that replaces both the fuse and the thermostat. And the thermostat that comes with the kit is the one shown in the video. The kit was kind of expensive, and due to my uncertainty about the installation, I opted to just replace the thermostat with the original part. Thus, I'm now operating the dryer with the original fuse still in service...gulp.
I'm just a guy trying to fix my broken dryer. I'm not an appliance repair guy. Had some difficulty finding info on the web that explained how dryers work. Lot of video's explaining how to replace a part or what part to replace vs a variety of symptoms. But not much on how dryers work. What follows is the little I was able to piece together:
The high limit thermostat and fuse are protective devices that in a perfect world would never be called upon to operate. Their set-points are 250 deg F and 309 deg F respectively. The normal day to day regulation of the dryer temperature is accomplished with the cycling thermostat set at 150 deg F. So, if the cycling thermostat fails to open, the hi-limit thermostat should open at 250 deg F. If the hi limit thermostat fails to open, then the hi-limit fuse would open at 309 deg F. All three of these devices de-energize the heating element. There's a fourth device, a fuse, that de-energizes both the motor and the heating element but I don't know its set-point. The consequence of a dryer fire are so severe that the manufacturers equipped their dryers with multiple levels of protection.
In my case, the original heating element failed. So I replaced with a cheap aftermarket heating element which failed after about 6 weeks service. So, next time around I bought/installed a whirlpool "FSP" heating element. After installed, I ran and could see that the element would cycle. That is, be energized for a few minutes during which it would glow red hot. Then, de-energize for a few minutes during which the red hot glow would diminish to darkness. This proved to me that the cycling thermostat was operating properly.
Don't know why my heating elements failed. Conjecture: The original just died of old age and the cheap aftermarket was defective, but that seems unlikely. I also found myself wondering if I kinked the flex hose between the dryer and the house vent piping. After reading about dryer fires, I now find myself keeping an eye on the dryer when in use.
www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-3977767-Thermostat/dp/B00DM8KR1E/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr_3k_Oqg5QIVjMDACh1kyg6cEAAYASAAEgIBFfD_BwE&hvadid=174245280143&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029746&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6529563922426429373&hvtargid=kwd-34152737924&hydadcr=24657_9648987&keywords=thermostat+3977767&qid=1571230838&sr=8-5
Hi there. We just replaced both fuses, as well as the heating element, but still no heat. Any thoughts what else could be the cause?? Thanks:)
The electrical circuit for the heater passes through contacts in the timer and the motor switch as well. The timer contacts can be
checked for continuity with a multi-meter, but the motor switch contacts would require a live voltage test.
I have a model like with auto sense feature. ||Any idea if it really has the auto sense feature? I can put a dry shirt in and it doesn't sense at all that it is dry and heats up.
I would need to know your precise model number to make an accurate diagnosis.
My new lower thermostat screw holes do not line up.