Land Rover Series detent spring
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 лип 2019
- If you find metal when you drain your gearbox oil - there is a good chance it's a 3/4 gear synchro mesh detent spring. If you don't want to remove and strip your gearbox, you have to watch this video.
I don't want this info lost - please copy and share links to this video and grab a copy of the instructions.
If you want to contact me, I am user 'JayHoe' on www.lrukforums.com. Alternatively you can try leaving a message for me in the comments.
Link to original instructions: www.psych.usyd.edu.au/staff/jo...
• Remove the both floor plates, gear box cover and fire wall transition cover.
• Select third gear, then remove the gear stick. Temporarily replace the selector cover bolts and clutch inspection plate.
• Thoroughly degrease and clean the top of the gearbox and selector area.
• Drain the oil from the gearbox.
• You need to be able to raise the seat box about four inches. You do not need to remove it completely, just unfasten the bolts around the base, and the two each side at the back, and lift the base and use a block of wood to keep it in position.
• Carefully remove the detent spring covers each side of the gearbox (they are held by two small bolts and are right-angle shaped). Put some light grease into the holes with you finger tip to stop the balls rolling out.
• Remove the central detent spring. It is held in place by a brass threaded plug.
• Undo the nuts and bolds holding the selector cover (6 in all) and lift it free.
• Carefully remove the three detent balls and the interlock pins between the selectors.
• You will need to remove the selectors next. Take a moment to note where the the selectors engage into the drive train to that you can put them back in the right position.
• Remove the 3rd/4th selector (left hand side). It should be back compared to the others. If your problem was a jammed 3rd/4th, you can still lift the selector enough to see where the broken clip is jamming the synchroniser. You will need to use a lifting and twisting motion to get the selector out.
• Remove the 1st/2nd selector (middle), and finally reverse gear.
• Have a close look at the 3rd/4th synchroniser (see sketch). It has three guide posts with a notch in the middle and cutouts in the gears beneath them. The clips sit in these channels.
• Select neutral in the transfer case.
• Push the 3rd/4th synchro into the neutral position, with the selector place centered.
• Rotate the synchro until one of the posts is to the right and horizontal.
• Select high range to lock the gears again.
•
• ORIGINAL INSTRUCTIONS: Push the synchro into 4th gear (that is, the movable plate to the front).
• MY AMENDED INSTRUCTIONS: Push the synchro into 3rd gear (that is, the movable plate to the back).
• Insert a new clip into the gap between the post and the gears, with the bent ends towards the shaft.
• Using a pair of angled nose pliers, push the clip down and twist anti-clockwise and it will snap into position.
• Move the selector into 3rd (4th for amended instructions) gear to centralise the clip. You may need to rotate the shaft slightly.
• Repeat these steps for the other two clips. It will get harder to move the selector as you add clips.
• Replace the gear oil by pouring back through the top.
• Reverse the steps to reassemble the gearbox, seat and floors.
I did it. I AM LEGEND :-)
As posted on www.lrukforums.com/threads/gr...
Music: www.bensound.com
#landrover #gearbox #DetentSpring - Авто та транспорт
I can now confirm that it is indeed possible! I have followed your impeccable recommendation and found one spring missing. The one i had originally found at tge oil change. My 1961 land rover series 2 is now working perfectly. On another issue: for any one of you with a roamerdrive overdrive attached to the back of the transfer box do remember to use oil 75w 90 GL4 NOT GL5! GL5 is detrimental to the transfer and overdrive. You can obviously use the same oil in the differential, gear box etc.etc
Fantastic! You have done it!!!!
You are the first person to say they have after 18 months. Wow! YOU have just made this video worthwhile. I am so pleased that at least one other person has been saved fro removing their gearbox.
Happy days and congratulations!
You’re a legend mate! I drained the fluid, found one broken spring, followed your illustration and replaced the missing spring. Didn’t take more than a couple hours total and my girl was back on the road running! Cheers mate👍
It would not engage into third or fourth, that was the symptom.
Glad it worked out pal!
This is brilliant - thanks! I've got to do this shortly, my faithful steed very obviously ate a spring this week. I spent some time in the workshop today looking at a new 'box I've just built and settled on the same method as you, so seeing this video has bolstered my confidence to have a go. The gearbox currently fitted is a Suffix B with a different syncro unit to the C & D. I have an example of each and noted that the later suffix D unit has a fair old step in the channels where the springs sit, adding another difficulty to the job - possibly why some find this task possible and others give up, declaring it to be impossible! To deal with the later type, it looks like one could get half way, centre the hub and then push the spring through whilst lifting the front.
All the best with it and let us all know how you get on.
I found a mangled spring in my gearbox oil this evening. New springs and a set of long nose pliers on order after watching this video! Thanks!
Good luck. Reply to me here if you need to and I will help as I can! Or email me - clockwatcher24 hotmail com Let me know your locality if you have issues.
Just changed today the oil ( by the way use 75w/90 GL4 NOT GL5 if, as I do, you have a roamerdrive as GL 5 oils are corrosive for copper alloys) of the gearbox and overdrive of my beloved 88 1961 series 2. I found the spring cut in two in the oil attached to the magnet of the drain plug! I have seen your very useful video and as soon as the weather gets better here in Switzerland will attempt the job! Thank you so much for sharing the experience!
Let us know how you get on. It's fiddly, but at least as you KNOW it can be done you can keep at it. It's a problem when you can't do something and you're not really sure if it is possible or not.
IT IS!
I’ve always found that the selectors come out easier in the opposite order to that which you used. Great video though, thanks for sharing. I found the remnants of a spring in my gear oil when I changed it recently. It’s a job I need to do.
Awesome work. Thanks for sharing. Such a work saver.
Well done mate. Good job. Ordering those long pliers today!
Thanks for the video I found two springs when I changed my oil. All 3 were missing, replaced all of them. After bore scoping, rebuild the box. Thank you so much! I had to pull the to studs in the middle to get the cover out with the seat box installed.
Hi David, so you managed to replace them as I did with the box in place???! Woooo! Thank goodness you didn't have to pull and strip the box. I am so pleased for you. Please spread the word to other Landy forums, share the link to this video - it can save people a whole WORLD of pain.
More a synchro spring than a detent spring , in my opinion The detent springs hold the plungers on the top plate for holding the box in gear. Now they’re easy to change in situ. I’ve done it cos i I got the reverse spring in the wrong cap. !!
Success. Well done. I think I need a set of those pliers, I have a couple of long nose pliers already but it’s all part of the arsenal!
Awesome work mate, will keep that in mind if I ever find some metal in my gearbox oil changes !! thanks for sharing !!
Very welcome... hope it doesn't happen!
Great video, it's been very helpful so far!!
I have just finished doing what you have done, mine had thrown 1 spring only but I used screwdrivers bent in about 5 different ways till I found the right angle to lift the back of the spring, but it was getting jammed as I levered it back and had to make a very small heavy gauge bent rod to jam under the spring and then lever it forward. Thanks for the video it made it possible to do mine.
Fantastic! I am so pleased. It's a PITA but SOOO much better than removing and dismantling the box. Glad you got it sorted.
Well done! Patience and perseverance
Excellent video, thank you!
I know somebody who has done it.....
Well done John.
The small rubber ring on on the side detents are oil seals would you belive...as are the ones on the selector rods...they dont work very well.
brilliant , i thoroughly enjoyed your vidio . thank you !
Important point raised by a Swiss LR driver here. GL4 oil never GL5. The latter causes pitting and decay in gearbox bronze. So avoid like the plague.
Also an interesting fact I only recently discovered is the selectors were moved to their exposed forward position for use in the LR. The rover gearbox selectors were in the empty space under the cover plate next to the transfer case. Fine for a P3 saloon car but no good for the LR as the stick would come up though the seat box. So that’s why they leak from the top of the gearbox....
Fantastic! Thank you so much
Awesome video! Thanks :)
Great video. Thx. :)
Good Job!!!!
Easy when you know how 👍
It certanly is possible I did it on my S3 109 about 33 years ago
Good day to you sir I have a 1974 series 3 and I owned it for the last 2 years couple of days ago I was missing with the hi ratio lever and the four wheel drive lever while the car is not moving then I put it back in normal gears just front wheel drive and I drove it for about 5 MI and all of a sudden the stick shift will not leave 3rd gear and still stuck any suggestions please
❤❤❤
Hi. I am trying to do this. I get as far as "using a pair of angled nose pliers, push the clip down and twist anti-clockwise and it will snap into position" and get stuck. I cannot for the life of me get the detent to move through the gap rearwards. Not even a mil. The front end of the detent is catching of course, but I am able to twist and lift the detent high enough to clear the front... But it just won't slide back and through. How!???
So you should have the ring pushed towards the rear of the vehicle so you are fitting the spring in front. Spring goes in in front along side the pin. Front slides into gap under forward teeth and hooks. Slide forward as far as it goes.
Grab spring with pliers and jiggle... you are sliding it sideways towards the pin... pushing it down to tuck under the pin snd keeping the end of the spring from catching... all at the same time.
Whereabouts are you? Email me. Happy to help if not a million miles away.... cover fuel and feed me!
You have selectors out and floor and tunnel out?
Email me... clockwatcher24 hotmail com
Looking forwards to hearing from you
@@TropicalSunriseTans thanks for the reply. Have emailed you.
T H A N K Y O U ! ! !
Well done. The did get that bitch!! LOL!!!I use the same technical terminology upon victory
Noice!
Thanks chap! I am walking on air!
Not sure if you still come on here but I'll try, just tried this job but I'm unsure if it was in 3rd gear when I got down to the cogs and after I removed the selectors. I was likely taking the gearbox out anyway so it's no massive drama if the job is now a no-go in this way, you look like you have more access from the video but I'm not sure either way. But you look like your manipulating through the gears anyway so how crucial is the initial 3rd gear replacement if I didn't??
One detent spring is missing so job needed doing but damn looks like the gearbox off now 😭 hope to hear back cheers
Yup. This is me!
The access is tiny, it looks bigger in the vid.
Anyway your question... slide the synchro cage back/forward as needed. I moved it a couple of times while trying.
Starting in 3 or 4 is not critical.
Good luck!
See me change from 3 to 4 position at about 10.50 in the vid.
Make sure you let people know about this fix!
Many thanks for getting back so quick, i'll let you know how things go. Cheers @@Mr-Sensible
All done, wasn't too bad in the end. Roughly 45 mins of fiddling around and then it just seemed to go into place, wish I could reveal some fantastic technique but persistence was all really. Lifting the back of the detent spring with pliers and then using a flathead screwdriver to shift it along seemed to work for me, I did lose a new one down in the oil which will hopefully be able to retrieve out when I drain it. Many thanks for uploading and saving the hassle of a gearbox removal or an expensive mechanic!
@@Georgie-gt6lr Fabulous news!
Make sure you post about it (and link the video) on any Landy boards you are on. It saves a world of grief of taking out and stripping the gear box!
I am so please mate, I really am!
ATB
John